Saint Malo, the legacy of pirates

The Northern coastline of French Brittany is speckled with little islands. Some of them are high tide islands only. During low tide, they are rock formations, rising up from the beach and easily accessible by foot. Once the tide rolls in, the islands are cut off from the mainland by a wild and treacherous sea. Don’t underestimate the Atlantic in this part of the world. The warning signs are put up for a good reason: “Always make sure you have time to leave.” Quaint beaches just outside the walls can become death traps in minutes.

The threat from the sea is embedded in Saint Malo’s history and culture. And it wasn’t just the water they needed to fear: Since the middle ages, Vikings and British armies would try to invade France from the sea. Located at the mouth of the Rance River, Saint Malo, had a strategic position. To protect the town from invasions by man or ocean, Saint Malo was built within walls that could withstand both. The lovely seaside town at low tide, becomes an impressive fortress at high tide.

From behind their strong walls the Malouins, as the towns inhabitants are called, became a force to be reckoned with in the late middle ages and remained so for some centuries after. The town was home to French privateers and pirates, who forced passing ships to pay tribute and looted ships from enemies of France.

Today’s Saint Malo can be divided into "intra-mural" (the old part of town within the walls) and the more modern part of town where houses from the late 19th and early 20th century are an elegant backdrop to the golden beaches.

For me, the greatest appeal lies in the old walled town with its intense feeling of solidity. Those walls withstood the ocean for centuries, and most armies as well. The air strikes in the second world war couldn’t be foreseen by the 16th century architects and did considerable damage. Fortunately, the town has since been completely restored to its former glory.

Apart from day trippers from the Channel Islands and summer tourism at the beaches, Saint Malo is fairly quiet. Upon arrival we found out that underneath our inexpensive hotel there was a busy pub that had its own brewery. The double glazing kept the noise down and we had a great time at the pub that served beers straight from the brewery. We’d go there again in a heartbeat.

In Saint Malo you walk along those thick walls and marvel. At low tide, you can walk to the former prison, on a tidal island just steps away from one of the town’s entrance gates. At high tide, the road to the entrance gate disappears and the sea pounds against the walls. It’s hard to believe the water will be gone and the road will resurface in hours.

For nature lovers and bird watchers, the town is the ideal starting point. The close by rugged landscape of cliffs and bays is popular with hikers and bird watchers. The good news is that you can walk for many hours if you want to, the better news is that you don’t have to. Some of the most spectacular views are within easy walking distance of a road or parking lot.

Comments, questions or suggestions are more than welcome. You can contact Mickey Welsh at mewelsh@gannett.com.You can follow "Wish I Was There" on Facebook for a daily dose of Europe at https://www.facebook.com/travelmickey1.