CN103385806A - Method for inhibiting whitening cosmetics from yellowing - Google Patents
Method for inhibiting whitening cosmetics from yellowing Download PDFInfo
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- CN103385806A CN103385806A CN2013103435975A CN201310343597A CN103385806A CN 103385806 A CN103385806 A CN 103385806A CN 2013103435975 A CN2013103435975 A CN 2013103435975A CN 201310343597 A CN201310343597 A CN 201310343597A CN 103385806 A CN103385806 A CN 103385806A
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Abstract
The invention relates to a method for inhibiting whitening cosmetics from yellowing. The method is characterized by comprising the steps of: adding an appropriate amount of an ingredient capable of inhibiting moisture activity to a cosmetic formula containing whitening active matters, so as to control the moisture activity of a product to be smaller than 0.87, wherein the ingredient capable of inhibiting moisture activity is one or a mixture or isomers of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, sorbitol, betaine, glucose, trehalose, sucrose, polyethylene glycol-8, polyethylene glycol-32, methyl glucitol polyether-10, methyl glucitol polyether-20, glycerol polyether-26 and poloxamer 184; adding 0.03-0.5wt% of complexing agent; and adding an appropriate amount of pH buffering agent so as to control the pH of the product to be 3.3-4.7. The method disclosed by the invention has the beneficial effect of inhibiting the whitening cosmetics from yellowing; and after the whitening cosmetics prepared by the method disclosed by the invention are stored for three years in cosmetic containers, the appearance of the products does not yellow, and the loss of the whitening active matters is small.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the cosmetics preparing technical field, particularly a kind of method that suppresses the skin-lightening cosmetic flavescence.
Background technology
Melanic generation in skin, basically, be in skin tyrosine progressively under the effect of enzyme catalyzed oxidation form melanic process.In whitening class cosmetics, the mechanism that check melanin is produced, be mainly to adopt the whitening active component with reducing substances, and purpose is that competitive inhibition produces melanic oxidizing process.Generally acknowledge that at present effect is relatively good, applying many is ascorbic acid derivates, also referred to as the vitamin c class derivant, as 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid glucoside, the aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphoric acid esters, magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate, NAP, and the cosmetics health standard allows derivant such as the hexyl resorcin of the resorcinol series products that uses, Symwhite-337, dimethoxy-p base-4-propyl group resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol, and the derivant β of hydroquinone-arbutin and alpha-arbutin.Common these materials quite stable under dry environment, unsuitable oxidation by air, but easily oxidized under aqueous environments.The most of all forms take water as medium of skin protection cosmetics exist, these materials with reproducibility are very easy to by the metal ion catalysis oxidation in aqueous solution, form the generation dehydroascorbic acid after the oxidized decomposition of ascorbic acid derivates, dehydroascorbic acid can generate the heterocycle material with carboxyl in aqueous solution, last decarboxylation acid generates furtural and polymerization is brown.And resorcinol class and hydroquinone analog derivative easily are oxidized into quinones and are brown in water, thus the situation that has caused whitening product usually just to there will be product flavescence, whitening activity substance content to descend in 6 months after production.The product flavescence, be on the one hand that in product, the whitening activity substance content descends, and affected the usefulness of original expectation, and the open defect brought of product flavescence, directly cause the complaint of consumer and even return goods on the other hand.Therefore, develop a kind of method for preparing skin-lightening cosmetic, with the method, can prepare in cosmetics containers and store 3 years, the skin-lightening cosmetic that xanthochromia does not occur product appearance is very significant.
Summary of the invention
The technical problem to be solved in the present invention is, a kind of method that suppresses the skin-lightening cosmetic flavescence is provided, with the skin-lightening cosmetic of the method preparation stores 3 years in cosmetics containers, xanthochromia does not occur in product appearance, the loss of whitening active matter is lacked.
for solving the problems of the technologies described above, the present invention is by the following technical solutions: a kind of method that suppresses the skin-lightening cosmetic flavescence, it is characterized in that: add and can suppress the composition of water activity in right amount in the cosmetic formulations that contains the whitening active matter, in the control product, water activity is lower than 0.87, the described composition that suppresses water activity is propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, Pyrusussuriensis (sugar) alcohol, betanin, glucose, trehalose, sucrose, PEG-8, Polyethylene Glycol-32, methyl gluceth-10, methyl gluceth-20, glycerin polyether-26, a kind of or their mixture or their isomers of poloxamer 184, adding percentage by weight is the chelating agent of 0.03%-0.5%, add appropriate pH buffer agent, control product pH 3.3～4.7.
Described pH buffer agent is citric acid/sodium citrate buffer system or citric acid/sodium hydroxide buffer system.
Described whitening active matter is a kind of in 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid glucoside, aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphoric acid esters, magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate, NAP, hexyl resorcin, Symwhite-337, dimethoxy-p base-4-propyl group resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol, β-arbutin and alpha-arbutin or their mixture.
Described chelating agent is a kind of in ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonic acid five sodium, EDTA disodium, EDDS trisodium, pentetic acid five sodium or their mixture.
In the formula for a product such as the whitening water in skin-lightening cosmetic, whitening beautifying liquid, whitening essence, other material is mainly water, the water soluble polymer thickening agent, including but not limited to hydroxyethyl-cellulose, xanthan gum, carrageenan, antiseptic, spice, pigment, nourishing additive agent, and use sense improvement composition.Whitening breast and skin whitener also comprise emulsifying agent, grease, higher alcohols, wax etc. in formula., no matter be whitening water, whitening beautifying liquid, whitening essence or whitening breast or skin whitener, be all the product take water as main carriers.
Below principle of the present invention is set forth, water is divided in conjunction with water and Free water, what can impel that biological and chemical reaction carries out is mainly Free water.Hydrone be easy to and other polar molecules between form hydrogen bond, all can be combined with water as carboxyl, hydroxyl etc., become in conjunction with water, no longer can dissolve other materials in conjunction with water.Fierce chemical reaction only, usually in conjunction with water and stay out of gentle chemical reaction.What water activity was measured is the amount of Free water in product.Water activity is very large on the product stability impact, and water activity is high, and the amount of Free water is just large, and water activity is low, and the amount of Free water is just few, and therefore reducing water activity can reduce the amount of Free water, thereby reduces the speed of each gentle chemical reaction in aqueous solution.
The present invention is by adding the composition of suitable inhibition water activity in formula, cardinal principle is to utilize the hydrogen bond action of hydroxyl in these compositions that Free water is become in conjunction with water, thereby the water activity in the reduction skin-lightening cosmetic, make water activity in product lower than 0.87.Form in product in conjunction with water when inactive, more difficult participating in the oxidized chemical process of whitening active matter, therefore strengthened the degree of stability of whitening active matter.In cosmetics, water activity can be used the AquaLab equipment of U.S. DECAGON company or with quasi-instrument, measure.
The present invention add that the cosmetics health standard of proper proportion allow to use chelating agent, the metal ions such as free micro-calcium, magnesium, copper, ferrum, zinc, aluminum in can the complexation aqueous solution, these ions are to impel the catalyst that in aqueous solution, oxidation reaction is carried out.These metal ions by complexation after, catalytic action loses, thus it is oxidized in aqueous solution effectively to suppress the whitening active matter.A kind of in preferred ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonic acid five sodium of the present invention, EDTA disodium, EDDS trisodium, pentetic acid five sodium or their mixture, the preferred addition 0.03%-0.5% that is weight percentage.
The present invention, by add appropriate pH buffer agent (pH buffer system to) in formula, keeps the pH of skin-lightening cosmetic final products of the present invention between 3.3～4.7.The pH buffer agent is preferably citric acid/sodium citrate buffer system or citric acid/sodium hydroxide buffer system.Because hydrogen ion free in sour environment can make 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid glucoside, aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphoric acid esters, magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate, NAP, hexyl resorcin, Symwhite-337, dimethoxy-p base-4-propyl group resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol, β-arbutin and alpha-arbutin present molecularity in aqueous solution, rather than present ionic condition, can strengthen the stability of whitening active matter, so the pH value of final products is adjusted between 3.3-4.7.The pH value method of testing is the straight survey method in the mensuration of GB/T 13531.1-2008 " cosmetics generic inspection method " pH value.
Through test, obvious Yellowing all can not occur in the skin-lightening cosmetic for preparing by the inventive method in 3 years.Investigate through long-time stability, the whitening active matter content that the present invention mentions all can remain on more than 97.5% of former addition in 3 years.The skin-lightening cosmetic of conventional method preparation just there will be product flavescence phenomenon in 6 months, and after 2 years, the whitening active matter content is only the 55%-72% of former addition.
In sum, the inventive method has the beneficial effect that suppresses the skin-lightening cosmetic flavescence, and the skin-lightening cosmetic for preparing with this method stores 3 years in cosmetics containers, xanthochromia does not occur product appearance, the loss of whitening active matter is few.
The specific embodiment
The following example is used for exemplary illustration, but the scope that does not limit the present invention in any way.
Embodiment 1
Green transparent whitening water
Preparation method:
1., with above-mentioned all raw material mixing post-heating to 55 ℃ of A1-A7 part, cool to 37 ℃ after stirring.
Add the B1-B3 part material to stir, testing moisture activity is 0.87, and pH value is 3.3.This product at normal temperatures lower preserve 3 years non-yellowing, the whitening active matter content all can remain on 97.5% of former addition in 3 years.
?
Embodiment 2:
Milky white opaque whitening beautifying liquid
Preparation method:
1., with above-mentioned all raw material mixing post-heating to 55 ℃ of A1-A15 part, cool to 37 ℃ after stirring.2. add the B1-B2 part material to stir, testing moisture activity is 0.87, and pH value is 4.7.This product preserve at normal temperatures 3 years non-yellowing, the whitening active matter content all can remain on 97.8% of former addition in 3 years.
?
Embodiment 3:
The water white transparency whitening essence
Preparation method:
1., with above-mentioned all raw material mixing post-heating to 55 ℃ of A1-A12 part, cool to 37 ℃ after stirring;
2.Add the B1 part material to stir;
3, the C1-C4 part material is pre-mixed, adds after stirring;
4, stirring after the D1 part material is added is the clear, colorless whitening essence, and testing moisture activity is 0.82, and pH value is 4.7, and under room temperature, viscosity is 1500cps.This product preserve at normal temperatures 3 years non-yellowing, the whitening active matter content all can remain on 98.6% of former addition in 3 years.
Embodiment 4:
Yellow whitening emulsion
Preparation method:
1., with all raw material mixing post-heating to 85 ℃ of above-mentioned A1-A15 part, stir, remain on 85 ℃ standby;
2., with all raw material mixing post-heating to 85 ℃ of above-mentioned B1-B8 part, stir, remain on 85 ℃ standby;
With above-mentioned with step 1 and step 2 gained mixing of materials, use homogenizer, remain on 83-85 ℃, 2800rpm homogenizing 15 minutes, then cool to 38 ℃;
4. above-mentioned C1-C4 part material is added, namely obtain yellow whitening emulsion after stirring, testing moisture activity is 0.87, and pH value is 4.3, and under room temperature, viscosity is 7500cps.This product preserve at normal temperatures 3 years non-yellowing, the whitening active matter content all can remain on 98.9% of former addition in 3 years.
Embodiment 5:
Pink whitening cream frost
Preparation method:
1., with all raw material mixing post-heating to 85 ℃ of above-mentioned A1-A16 part, stir, remain on 85 ℃ standby;
2., with all raw material mixing post-heating to 85 ℃ of above-mentioned B1-B10 part, stir, remain on 85 ℃ standby;
3., with above-mentioned steps 1 and step 2 gained mixing of materials, use homogenizer, remain on 83-85 ℃, 2800rpm homogenizing 15 minutes, then cool to 38 ℃;
4. with above-mentioned, the C1-C3 part material is added, namely obtain pink whitening cream frost after stirring, testing moisture activity is 0.76, and pH value is 4.0, and under room temperature, viscosity is 45000cps.This product preserve at normal temperatures 3 years non-yellowing, the whitening active matter content all can remain on 97.7% of former addition in 3 years.
Claims (4)
1. method that suppresses the skin-lightening cosmetic flavescence, it is characterized in that: add and can suppress the composition of water activity in right amount in the cosmetic formulations that contains the whitening active matter, in the control product, water activity is lower than 0.87, the described composition that suppresses water activity is propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, Pyrusussuriensis (sugar) alcohol, betanin, glucose, trehalose, sucrose, PEG-8, Polyethylene Glycol-32, methyl gluceth-10, methyl gluceth-20, glycerin polyether-26, a kind of or their mixture or their isomers of poloxamer 184, adding percentage by weight is the chelating agent of 0.03%-0.5%, add appropriate pH buffer agent, control product pH 3.3～4.7.
2. the method for inhibition skin-lightening cosmetic according to claim 1 flavescence, it is characterized in that: described pH buffer agent is citric acid/sodium citrate buffer system or citric acid/sodium hydroxide buffer system.
3. the method for inhibition skin-lightening cosmetic according to claim 1 flavescence is characterized in that: described whitening active matter is a kind of in 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid glucoside, aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphoric acid esters, magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate, NAP, hexyl resorcin, Symwhite-337, dimethoxy-p base-4-propyl group resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol, β-arbutin and alpha-arbutin or their mixture.
4. the method for inhibition skin-lightening cosmetic according to claim 1 flavescence is characterized in that: described chelating agent is a kind of in ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonic acid five sodium, EDTA disodium, EDDS trisodium, pentetic acid five sodium or their mixture.
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| CN201310343597.5A CN103385806B (en) | 2013-08-08 | 2013-08-08 | A kind of method suppressing skin-lightening cosmetic to turn yellow |
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| CN201310343597.5A CN103385806B (en) | 2013-08-08 | 2013-08-08 | A kind of method suppressing skin-lightening cosmetic to turn yellow |
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Cited By (8)
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| CN104398397A (en) * | 2014-11-04 | 2015-03-11 | 广州卡迪莲化妆品有限公司 | Application of methyl glucose ether to improve cosmetic brightness |
| CN106309171A (en) * | 2015-06-15 | 2017-01-11 | 天津强微特生物科技有限公司 | Moisturizing and compacting mask |
| CN107157843A (en) * | 2017-06-07 | 2017-09-15 | 广州科玛生物科技股份有限公司 | A kind of fair-skinned bright white toner and preparation method thereof |
| CN107233236A (en) * | 2017-06-07 | 2017-10-10 | 广州科玛生物科技股份有限公司 | A kind of fair-skinned bright fine flour frost and preparation method thereof |
| CN108401417A (en) * | 2016-12-05 | 2018-08-14 | 郑汉洙 | Including improving the cosmetics of nano-particle and preparation method thereof of active principle containing whitening |
| CN110559248A (en) * | 2019-10-28 | 2019-12-13 | 杭州诗昀生物科技有限公司 | Skin-care matrix and preparation method and application thereof |
| WO2020000229A1 (en) * | 2018-06-27 | 2020-01-02 | L'oreal | Whitening composition |
| CN113677688A (en) * | 2019-03-26 | 2021-11-19 | 山东本真化妆品有限公司 | Personal care compositions and uses thereof |
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Cited By (13)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104398397A (en) * | 2014-11-04 | 2015-03-11 | 广州卡迪莲化妆品有限公司 | Application of methyl glucose ether to improve cosmetic brightness |
| CN104398397B (en) * | 2014-11-04 | 2017-07-14 | 广州卡迪莲化妆品有限公司 | A kind of application of methyl ether in cosmetics brightness is improved |
| CN106309171A (en) * | 2015-06-15 | 2017-01-11 | 天津强微特生物科技有限公司 | Moisturizing and compacting mask |
| CN108401417A (en) * | 2016-12-05 | 2018-08-14 | 郑汉洙 | Including improving the cosmetics of nano-particle and preparation method thereof of active principle containing whitening |
| CN107157843A (en) * | 2017-06-07 | 2017-09-15 | 广州科玛生物科技股份有限公司 | A kind of fair-skinned bright white toner and preparation method thereof |
| CN107233236A (en) * | 2017-06-07 | 2017-10-10 | 广州科玛生物科技股份有限公司 | A kind of fair-skinned bright fine flour frost and preparation method thereof |
| CN112739318B (en) * | 2018-06-27 | 2023-05-05 | 欧莱雅 | Whitening composition |
| WO2020000229A1 (en) * | 2018-06-27 | 2020-01-02 | L'oreal | Whitening composition |
| CN112739318A (en) * | 2018-06-27 | 2021-04-30 | 欧莱雅 | Whitening composition |
| CN113677688A (en) * | 2019-03-26 | 2021-11-19 | 山东本真化妆品有限公司 | Personal care compositions and uses thereof |
| US20220062141A1 (en) * | 2019-03-26 | 2022-03-03 | Zhengmei HUANG | Personal care compositions and uses thereof |
| EP3966220A4 (en) * | 2019-03-26 | 2023-09-06 | Huang, Zhengmei | Personal care compositions and uses thereof |
| CN110559248A (en) * | 2019-10-28 | 2019-12-13 | 杭州诗昀生物科技有限公司 | Skin-care matrix and preparation method and application thereof |
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