EP0976383A1 - Process for a cosmetic care of the skin and patch for realising said process - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic skin treatment with a patch comprising a polymer matrix on a support, where the matrix is self-adhesive on dry skin and contains one or more cosmetically active ingredients and one or more water-absorbing materials. Cosmetic skin treatment with a patch comprising a polymer matrix on a support, where the matrix is self-adhesive on dry skin and contains one or more cosmetically active ingredients and one or more water-absorbing materials, comprises either: (a) applying the patch to dry skin and then removing it to remove impurities from the skin; or (b) applying the patch to wet skin so that the water-absorbing materials (i) partially dry the skin so that the matrix still adheres to the skin (though less strongly than to dry skin) and (ii) absorb water and thereby redissolve the active ingredients so that they are in contact with the skin throughout the period of application. An Independent claim is also included for the patch.

Description

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic treatment process with using a patch, suitable for being applied to the skin in two modes of application different, in order to obtain selectively, a cleaning action of the skin, or a specific treatment action. The invention also relates to a patch for implementing the method.

In particular, the treatment method of the invention relates to the application of the patch according to a first application mode intended to carry out a cleaning of the skin, this same patch being intended to allow treatment of the skin, obtained during the application of the patch according to a second mode of application. It is in particular one of the objects of the invention to use a single type of patch for both cleaning and treatment modes, to prevent the user be forced to apply two different types of patches, and to exclude everything risk of confusion between two types of patches.

Thus, in addition to its cleansing action on the skin during application according to the first mode of application, the patch targeted by the present invention can be used to develop, according to a second mode of application, other actions, in particular a second treatment according to which the release on the epidermis of a or more cosmetically active compounds are performed. Next first intended mode of application, such patches are effective, in particular, for removing impurities present on the surface of the skin, in order to prepare it for the second treatment. Such impurities may include, residues related to surrounding pollution, dead skin cells, plugs of sebum, blackheads, perspiration residue, etc. On the surface of the skin thus cleaned can be applied then another patch of the same type, even the same patch, according to the second mode of application, intended to exert on the skin an emollient, hydrating, softening, healing action, regenerating, anti-wrinkle or tensor, sunscreen, soothing, self-tanning or lightening, or to tighten or open the pores of the skin.

It is known to use patches allowing, by transdermia, to administer active compounds, for systemic treatment. Such patches have in general a structure comprising several successive layers in the following order: a first layer, called the support layer, generally occlusive; a second layer, called polymer matrix, fixed on the layer support and containing the active compound (s), this layer possibly coming directly in contact with the skin and containing, if necessary, to facilitate fixing the patch to the skin, an adhesive material; finally, a film removable protection, hermetically covering the layer of polymer, so as to protect it from any external contamination during the storage prior to using the patch.

In addition, there are patches of occlusive care, allowing to penetrate active compounds in the epidermis. This type of patch is, in general, very not very adhesive, because it contains aqueous or hydrophilic formulas. These patches, intended for the treatment of the skin, are applied, generally, during an exposure time on the skin which can range from 15 minutes to 8 hours.

We also know occlusive treatment patches that are applied during overnight to administer an active agent to the epidermis, these patches having a very high adhesive power on the skin. These patches, when they removal, are aggressive and traumatic for the skin, already sensitized by prior treatment, which may then cause chapped skin, redness painful or inflamed. This effect occurs, in particular, due increased adhesion of the patch to the skin, depending on the duration of application.

There are, on the other hand, products of the dry mask type that the user moisten before application to the skin. This type of mask dries on the skin.

These masks are intended for cleaning the skin, in particular the pores, depth.

There are also dehydrated patches, rewettable with water based on water-soluble polymers, which are removed, after drying, to peel and clean the skin.

We also know self-adhesive patches with a matrix hydrophobic polyurethane, polyacrylate, polyvinyl or silicone, provided with water absorbing particles. The water absorbers are intended to resolubilize water-soluble active ingredients contained in the matrix in the form of a suspension. Patches of this kind have a relatively limited adhesive power.

In addition, there are known dry products of the treatment wipe type, not tights, which are moistened and which do not dry, to carry out a treatment of care on the face.

Also, is it one of the objects of the invention to carry out a simple treatment, alternated or combined in two possible modes of application from the same patch type. Another object of the invention is to authorize two results of different treatment, depending on whether the patch is applied in a first mode dry application, or according to a second mode of application in the wet state.

It is another object of the invention to provide a patch which incorporates various cosmetically active compounds, which, in addition to their action for rid the skin of its impurities, in whatever form, have a second action, in particular hydrating, softening, emollient, healing, regenerating, soothing, self-tanning, lightening, anti-wrinkle, protective against the sun's rays, or a fat-reducing action.

It is in particular one of the objects of the invention to prepare the skin during a cleaning step, able to facilitate the administration of a treatment for skin, to make it more effective.

To this end, yet another object of the invention consists in proposing a simplified processing, using only one type of patch, applicable in two different application modes.

a) en mode nettoyage sur peau sèche, le décollement du patch après application permettant, sous l'action mécanique résultant de l'adhérence du patch, de débarrasser la peau des impuretés qu'elle contient, ou

b) en mode traitement à l'état mouillé, le (ou les) composé(s) hydroabsorbants permettant d'une part, en asséchant partiellement la peau, de conserver une adhérence de la matrice sur la peau, laquelle adhérence est réduite par rapport à adhérence de la matrice sur peau sèche, et d'autre part, en absorbant de l'eau, de resolubiliser tout ou partie des composés cosmétiquement actifs contenus dans la matrice pour les mettre en contact avec la peau pendant toute la durée d'application.

Also, the subject of the present invention is a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin by means of a patch consisting of a polymer matrix deposited on a support, said matrix being self-adhesive on dry skin, and containing at least one cosmetic compound. active, and at least one water-absorbing compound, said process consisting in selectively applying the patch:

a) in cleaning mode on dry skin, detachment of the patch after application allowing, under the mechanical action resulting from the adhesion of the patch, to rid the skin of the impurities which it contains, or

b) in wet treatment mode, the water-absorbing compound (s) making it possible, on the one hand, by partially drying the skin, to maintain adhesion of the matrix to the skin, which adhesion is reduced compared to with adhesion of the matrix to dry skin, and secondly, by absorbing water, to resolubilize all or part of the cosmetically active compounds contained in the matrix to bring them into contact with the skin for the entire duration of application .

The expression "in the wet state" means a following processing mode which, either the skin or the surface of the patch intended to adhere to the skin, is previously wetted, especially with water. The wetting of the skin constitutes however, the preferred mode of application.

So on dry skin, the patch sticks perfectly to the skin, thanks to the presence of the self-adhesive matrix, in contact over substantially the entire surface of the patch with the skin. When removing the patch, the impurities found in the surface of the skin, and the release of which can be promoted by the presence certain active ingredients are torn off under the mechanical action of the adhesive. Active ingredients may be released on the skin during removal of the patch. In the wet state, the hydroabsorbents, separated from the free surface of the patch, by a very thin layer of adhesive matrix, absorb water, forming in particular a gel, or a network of waterlogged fibers, in which the active ingredients will dissolve and be able to come into contact with the skin. In besides, by absorbing part of the water, there remain a certain number of points anchors between the adhesive matrix and the skin, so as to allow sufficient adhesion of the patch to the skin, which adhesion is significantly reduced compared to adhesion on dry skin.

Another object of the invention relates to a patch, which can be used for processing process defined above.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, this method consists in an application in cleaning mode, followed by an application in treatment mode. It is possible to carry out these two applications, immediately one after the other. Advantageously, however, the skin is allowed to rest, by example for a period of between 30 minutes and 12 hours.

Alternatively, the skin is first applied patch in treatment mode, followed by an application in cleaning mode. So, by an emollient treatment, the pores are opened to facilitate, then, the operation deep cleaning.

Generally, the application of the patch in cleaning mode is carried out in alternating with the application in treatment mode. It can be beneficial, however, especially when the skin is oily, to achieve a plurality of applications in cleaning mode, alternating with a plurality of applications in processing mode.

Preferably, the patch covered by the present invention is used during a duration of application, in cleaning mode, ranging from approximately 5 seconds to approximately 5 minutes.

In treatment mode, the application can be carried out for a period ranging from from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, or even 60 minutes if necessary.

Cosmetically active compounds which can be incorporated into the matrix of the patch, in accordance with the invention, are advantageously chosen, among emollients, moisturizers, softeners, keratolytics, peeling, healing, regenerating, anti-wrinkle, tensors, protectors sun, soothing, self-tanning, depigmenting, lightening or their mixtures. In addition, agents can be incorporated into the polymer matrix antioxidants, anti-free radicals, liporegulators, anti-acne, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, refreshing, vascular protectors, antibacterial, antifungal or nourishing.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the compound (s) cosmetically active (s) is (are) homogeneously dispersed in the polymer matrix in particulate form. This is interesting, in particular, when applying the patch in treatment mode on wet skin, because the active is not solubilized in the matrix substantially, until its penetration must occur.

The cosmetically active compound, which is used in particular in cleansing on dry skin, may advantageously be a compound having a action to detach impurities from the skin (for example, keratolytic agents, which take off dead skin cells), the swab the patch is then made by mechanical action of the adhesive. It could be also of one or more compounds contained in the matrix, and capable of directly absorb oily or watery secretions from the skin such as sebum or sweating. For this purpose, materials such as Kaolin powder, Siena, zeolites, particles of polyamide (especially those sold under the name "ORGASOL®" by ATOCHEM), the latter also having a softening action on contact with the skin. Mention may also be made of microbead powder expanded thermoplastics, sold under the trade name "EXPANCEL®" by the company KEMANORD PLAST, or starch powders modified, marketed by NATIONAL STARCH under the trade name "Dry Flo®". You can also use a mixture of such matters.

The active compounds with a cleaning effect which can be incorporated into the matrix, include in particular keratolytic agents such as alpha- and beta-hydroxy-carboxylic acids or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters and more particularly alpha-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, acid mandelic, and in general, fruit acids and beta-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular alkylated, like n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid is its esters. We can also use antibacterials, such as clindamicyne phosphate, erythromycin or tetracycline class antibiotics. Such assets are indicated when the skin has an acne tendency, and can be used in combination in particular with emollients, agents softeners, in particular honey or waxes, and / or healing agents, especially certain mineral salts, such as zinc oxide. We can also combine astringent agents, such as tannins or chlorohydrates aluminum or zirconium.

One or more active ingredients may be used, chosen in particular from ascorbic acid and its biologically compatible salts and esters, enzymes, components with a tightening effect, such as protein, soy or wheat powders, hydroxylated polyacids , sucroses and their derivatives, urea, amino acids, oligopeptides, water-soluble plant and yeast extracts, protein hydrolysates such as collagen and elastin, hyaluronic acid, mucopolysaccharides, vitamins B ₂ , B ₆ , H, PP, panthenol, folic acid, acetyl salicylic acid, allantoin, kojic acid, hydroquinone, etc.

The matrix can also comprise at least one liposoluble compound chosen from the following compounds: D-α-tocopherol, DL-α-tocopherol, D-α-tocopherol acetate, DL-α-tocopherol acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F and vitamin F glycerides, vitamins D, vitamin D ₂ , vitamin D ₃ , retinol, retinol esters, retinol palmitate, retinol propionate, β-carotene, D-panthenol, farnesol, farnesyl acetate; jojoba and blackcurrant oils rich in essential fatty acids; asian acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, total extract of centella asiatica, β-glycyrrhetinic acid, α-bisabolol, ceramides such as 2-oleoylamino-1,3 octadecane; phytanetriol, milk sphingomycline, phospholipids of marine origin rich in essential polyunsaturated fatty acids, ethoxyquin; rosemary extract, lemon balm extract, quercetin, dried microalgae extract, steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs.

By way of example, the emollient agent is chosen from: volatile or non-volatile silicones volatile, polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers; the oils natural or synthetic such as mineral, vegetable and animal oils; fats and waxes; alcohols and fatty acids and their esters; esters and (poly) alkylene glycol ethers; hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, petrolatum, squalane; lanolic alcohol and its derivatives; triglycerides animals and plants; stearyl alcohol.

The hydrating agent is advantageously chosen from: glycerol, sorbitol and its derivatives, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, D-, or DL-panthenol and their derivatives.

Preferably, the softening agent allantoin is chosen.

The scaling agent can be chosen from: alkylated acid derivatives salicylic, such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, alpha- and beta-hydroxy-carboxylic acids or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters.

The anti-wrinkle agents are preferably chosen from alpha- and beta-hydroxy-carboxylic or beta-ketocarboxylic, their salts, amides or esters; salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, azelaic acid, retinol and their derivatives.

When sun protection agents are present, these are chosen among the UV-A filters and / or the UV-B filters usually used in anti-sun compositions.

As a soothing agent, for example, α-bisabolol is chosen.

When a self-tanning agent is used, the latter is chosen from dihydroxy acetone and hydroxy naphthoquinone derivatives.

Advantageously, the lightening or depigmenting agent is chosen from citric acid, hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid.

Generally, the polymer matrix consists of a matrix based on silicone adhesive, or preferably, based on polyacrylic or polyvinyl adhesive. The adhesion of the patch according to the invention on dry skin (when in cleaning mode) is typically between approximately 300 g / cm ² and approximately 800 g / cm ² (force exerted perpendicular to the plane of the adhesive surface, necessary when it peels off the skin), its adhesion on wet skin is preferably between approximately 20 g / cm ² and approximately 300 g / cm ² . The surface of the matrix intended to come into contact with the skin may be smooth or have roughness or reliefs. The thickness of the matrix can be variable, in particular depending on the amount used in active compound (s) and hydroabsorbent (s). Typically, this thickness can vary between 5 μm and 500 μm.

According to an advantageous characteristic of the invention, after evaporation of the solvents, at least some of the active ingredient or agent particles hydroabsorbents or agglomerates formed by such particles, emerge with respect to the average surface of the adhesive matrix. In practice, these particles do not usually emerge directly, but in reality are coated with a very thin layer of said adhesive matrix. As an indication, the particles emerge from a height ranging from a few microns to a few hundred microns, and preferably from 10 microns to 100 microns, and more preferably from 10 µm to 70 µm. Preferably, the average thickness of the matrix (after evaporation of the solvents) is less than the largest dimension of the charges or particles of active agents or water-absorbing compounds, present in the matrix. If applicable, if said fillers or particles form agglomerates, the average thickness of the matrix is less than the largest dimension of said agglomerates. This arrangement allows, in wet treatment mode, to obtain the formation of an interface layer formed by water-absorbent hydroabsorbents, in particular in the form of a gel, between the adhesive matrix and the skin, and in which can dissolve the assets, which will thus be able to be used skin contact. The thickness of the interface layer formed above the adhesive matrix can advantageously range from 50 μm to 100 μm. So, only a small portion of the adhesive matrix is in contact with the skin, thus ensuring a reduced adhesion to the skin, sufficient however, possibly in combination with the intrinsic adhesion of the gel, to maintain the patch on the skin.

Advantageously, the water-absorbing agent (s) incorporated into the matrix polymer is (are) made up of particles dispersed in said matrix. Indeed, in contact with the water present on the skin, in particular after wetting, the particles of the water-absorbent agent capture water, thus promoting the solubilization of a solid, water-soluble active compound. In a way, by this "in situ" solubilization of the water-soluble active ingredient, its bioavailability is almost instantaneous, and any possible interaction with the other compounds present in the polymer matrix is minimized. Water on the skin (or on the patch before application) plays the role of solubilizer of the water-soluble active ingredient.

Among the water-absorbing agents present in the polymer matrix the dispersed state, mention may preferably be made of crosslinked polyacrylates superabsorbents with high swelling in water, such as those marketed by NORSOLOR under the name "AQUAKEEP®"; polyvinyl alcohol; carboxyvinyl polymers such as those marketed by GOODRICH under the names of "CARBOPOL®"; semi-synthetic cellulose derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose; starches, biogums such as gums xanthan, guar, gum arabic and tragacanth, biosaccharides, scleroglucans; casein; phytocolloids, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar-agar; gelatin and cotton fibers.

It is particularly preferred to use crosslinked polyacrylates superabsorbents whose presence in a dispersed state in a matrix hydrophobic polymer allows to accumulate a significant rate of water, and promotes, after hydration, better availability of particles from others active compounds present, if necessary, in the matrix.

The water-absorbent agent as defined above is preferably present, in a proportion ranging from approximately 0.2% to approximately 20% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 0.5% to 10% relative to the total weight of the matrix polymeric.

Essential oils can be included in the polymer matrix. We will quote, for example, lavender, mint, pepper, nutmeg, nail oil cloves, cedar, wheat germ, calophyllum, safflower, coriander, fruit seeds (grape, blackcurrant, orange, kiwi). Mint oil contains a high level of menthol, which, included in the matrix in microcrystalline form, provides a feeling of freshness on the skin.

The support according to the present invention can be made of any material suitable impermeable to the active compounds contained in the matrix adjacent polymer. The support has not only the function of supporting the polymer layer but also to serve as a protective coating this one. It can be the same size as the polymer layer or larger dimension so that it extends beyond the periphery of the polymer matrix.

The support can be an occlusive support. For example, the support is made of a thermoplastic material, chosen from high polyethylenes and low density, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chloride, copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyesters and polyurethanes, polyethylene terephthalate, or a complex of such materials. These materials can also be present in the form laminated with at least one metal sheet such as aluminum foil.

The support can be of any suitable thickness to ensure the functions support and protection. Preferably, the thickness of the support is included between about 20 µm and about 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support is flexible enough to be able to perfectly fit the profile of the skin, and not to cause discomfort in the user.

Alternatively, the support may be non-occlusive. In this last hypothesis, it is advantageous to use a support consisting of paper, a frame of a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, woven, non-woven, non woven perforated. Advantageously, when a frame is used, it can be embedded in the polymer matrix.

Advantageously still, the patch support comprises at least one small outgrowth, in the form of a tab, able to favor the peeling of the patch.

The patches according to the present invention can, in addition, be protected by the presence of a removable or peelable protective film adjacent to the polymer matrix and / or by packaging in a package suitable, especially impermeable to water and water vapor. Film may have a smooth or embossed surface. In the case of a surface film embossed, it reduces its adhesion to the matrix, thus promoting peeling of the film.

When the polymer matrix is protected by a detachable film of protection, this is removed at the time of use. She may be made of any material impermeable to the active compound as well as to any other component present in the polymer matrix. Among the materials that can be used, there may preferably be mentioned a sheet of silicone paper or a sheet of thermoplastic material treated to make it non-stick, by example using silicone or varnish. Preferably, this film removable protection is made of polyethylene. Advantageously, the protective sheet consists of two parts overlapping on one middle portion of the patch, so as to facilitate application without the fingers come into contact with the matrix containing the active ingredient (s). According to one alternative, the protective sheet extends over a surface greater than the surface of the patch, and overflows beyond the limits of the latter, so as to promote detachment.

According to a particularly interesting embodiment, the matrix polymeric can be colored so that, in cleaning mode, visually, quantify and / or qualify the impurities removed, by the adhesive surface of the patch.

For this purpose, in the polymer matrix of the patch can be incorporated colored pigments. In this case, it is advantageous that the color of the matrix polymeric is dark, so as to achieve sufficient contrast for highlight the impurities extracted from the skin. So once taken off of the skin, the patch carries on its colored adhesive surface, all the impurities that were extracted during processing. So when the patch is applied to dry skin, the adhesive performs a "peeling" function of the skin.

The quantity of impurities removed is representative of the frequency desirable to apply said patch. So the presence of a quantity important of such residues indicates to the user that she must apply the patch on the basis of a relatively high frequency (for example, daily). A lower amount of such impurities indicates that the frequency usage should be lower (for example, once a week). In in other words, in cleaning mode, a colored patch makes it possible to quantify the effectiveness of the treatment it provides. In addition, the type of impurities collected allows the user to best choose the duration of application, then, by treatment mode.

The colored pigments can consist in particular of pigments of the type of those used in the food or cosmetic field, in especially for lipsticks or nail polish. As examples, mention may be made, alone or in combination, of synthetic pigments, or mineral pigments, in particular pigments of zirconium oxide or cerium, as well as iron or chromium oxides, and ferric blue. We can use organic pigments, in particular carbon black, lacquers barium, zirconium (D&C Red No. 9), strontium (D&C Red No. 6), calcium (D&C Red No. 7), aluminum; azo and anthraquinone pigments (D&C purple No. 2).

In a known manner, the patches according to the present invention can be cut according to an appropriate contour, corresponding to the surface area of the skin to be treated, for example in the form of a mask for application to the face, in particular for application to the nose, lips, cheeks, the area between the nose and upper lip, or to treat crow's feet from the outer corner of the eye, bags below the eye, or forehead wrinkles. Of course, the patches according to the present invention can be cut in any other form necessary for application to a determined area of the body. In general, the size of a patch according to the invention is between 0.25 cm ² and 500 cm ² , and preferably between 1 cm ² and 30 cm ² .

The patches thus formed and cut can be used, after elimination of the removable protective layer, on a skin surface to be treated, by applying directly to an area of dry skin to exert an action cleaning. During this application of active ingredients favoring the take-off of skin impurities and removal of dead cells, get into the epidermis and the deeper layers of the skin. Thanks to the strong dry adhesion of the patch, when removing the patch, these impurities and dead cells remain stuck on the visible surface of the patch. Pick up of the patch may be accompanied by mild skin irritation, manifested by the appearance of slight redness, causing an increase blood supply to the dermis. This results in better diffusion of active ingredients previously migrated in the epidermis, towards the layers deeper dermis or even, in the long term, stimulation of angiogenesis cutaneous.

After taking off the patch, after an appropriate rest period, the user applies a second patch of the same type to the same area of skin, previously wet with water, to apply in mode treatment. Generally, the duration of application in treatment mode is longer longer than the duration of application in cleaning mode. After a period of appropriate application, the treating active ingredients are dissolved in the layer interface formed above the adhesive matrix and are brought into contact with the skin. Adherence of the patch, during this treatment phase is ensured by the presence of water-absorbing compounds which fulfill a function double. On the one hand, they retain a necessary amount of water to the dissolution of the active treatment compounds, and on the other hand, they create anhydrous anchor points on the surface of the matrix allowing the latter, to exercise its adhesive power vis-à-vis the surface of the skin. After one appropriate exposure time, the patch can be removed. So we can hire a another application cycle in due course. Treatment can be modulated from so that it best suits the need of the skin to be treated, as to the frequency and duration of application.

Thus, a patch can be applied which can be applied in two different modes: a cleaning mode and a treatment mode. Assets acting where appropriate in cleaning mode may not be the same as those acting in treatment mode. Application sequences according to either of these two Modes can be chosen at will according to the needs of the skin.

APPLICATION EXAMPLE

a) une feuille de polyéthylène constituant le support du patch et présentant une épaisseur de 200 µm ;

b) une matrice polymérique réalisée sous forme d'une couche de 0,2 mm d'épaisseur moyenne comportant : acide ascorbique 1,5 % menthol 0,5 % essence de lavande 0,1 % acide lactique 5 % Poudre de polyamide (ORGASOL®) 5 % acide citrique 1,5 % allantoïne 2 % polyacrylate hydroabsorbant (AQUAKEEP®) 5 % polymère acrylique autoadhésif   qsp. 100 % Cette matrice présente un pouvoir adhésif sur peau sèche d'environ 500 g/cm² ;

c) une feuille de papier siliconnée constituant la pellicule de protection détachable.

We make a patch including:

a) a polyethylene sheet constituting the support for the patch and having a thickness of 200 μm;

b) a polymer matrix produced in the form of a layer of 0.2 mm in average thickness comprising: ascorbic acid 1.5% menthol 0.5% lavender essence 0.1% Lactic acid 5% Polyamide powder (ORGASOL®) 5% citric acid 1.5% allantoin 2% water-absorbing polyacrylate (AQUAKEEP®) 5% self-adhesive acrylic polymer qs. 100% This matrix has an adhesive power on dry skin of approximately 500 g / cm ² ;

c) a sheet of silicone paper constituting the detachable protective film.

Observation of the surface of the matrix in the dry state shows the presence of numerous reliefs (formed by particles of active or hydroabsorbent, or agglomerates of such particles) more or less regularly dispersed on the patch surface, and protruding from the average surface of the layer over a height of about 50 µm.

A patch thus formed, for applying on the forehead, is cut for example in the shape of a rectangle of 3 cm x 8 cm.

During use, in cleaning mode, the patch, after removing the removable protective film, applied directly to the forehead, for a period of approximately 5 minutes. During this period, due to the presence of lactic acid, the detachment of dead skin cells in surface is favored. When after this period the patch is removed, the cells dead remain attached to the adhesive matrix.

After resting for 30 minutes, the forehead is wetted with water. We apply then a second patch of the same type on the wet forehead, and let it sit during 30 minutes. At the end of this period, after takeoff of the second patch, we can observe a lightening of the treated area, linked to the presence ascorbic acid and citric acid. Furthermore, thanks to the action of allantoin, the skin of the treated area has gained suppleness, and has more soft to the touch. There is, moreover, a blurring of fine lines of the forehead.

Claims (41)

Method for cosmetic treatment of the skin by means of a patch consisting of a polymer matrix deposited on a support, said matrix being self-adhesive on dry skin, and containing at least one cosmetically active compound, and at least one water-absorbing compound, said process consisting in selectively applying the patch: a) in cleaning mode on dry skin, detachment of the patch after application allowing, under the mechanical action resulting from the adhesion of the patch, to rid the skin of the impurities which it contains, or b) in wet treatment mode, the water-absorbing compound (s) making it possible, on the one hand, by partially drying the skin, to maintain adhesion of the matrix to the skin, which adhesion is reduced compared to with adhesion of the matrix to dry skin, and secondly, by absorbing water, to resolubilize all or part of the cosmetically active compounds contained in the matrix to bring them into contact with the skin for the entire duration of application . Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the support is occlusive. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the support is made of a thermoplastic material, chosen from high polyethylene and low density, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chloride, copolymers ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyurethanes and polyesters, or in a complex of such materials, polyethylene terephthalate covered with a sheet in aluminium. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the support is non occlusive. Method according to claim 4, characterized in that the support is made of paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven, into a nonwoven, into a perforated nonwoven. Treatment method according to any one of the claims previous, characterized in that it consists of an application in mode cleaning, followed by an application in treatment mode. Method according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that that it consists of an application in processing mode, followed by an application in cleaning mode. Treatment method according to any one of the claims above, characterized in that the cosmetically active compound is chosen among emollients, moisturizers, softeners, keratolytics, peeling, healing, regenerating, anti-wrinkle, tensors, protectors sun, soothing, self-tanning, lightening or mixtures thereof. Treatment method according to any one of the claims above, characterized in that the cosmetically active compound is dispersed in the polymer matrix in particulate form. Treatment method according to any one of the claims previous, characterized in that the application in cleaning mode is alternated with the application in treatment mode. Treatment method according to the preceding claim, characterized in what we realize a plurality of applications in alternating cleaning mode with a plurality of applications in processing mode. Treatment method according to any one of the claims previous, characterized in that the application in cleaning mode is performed for a period ranging from approximately 5 seconds to approximately 5 minutes. Treatment method according to any one of the claims previous, characterized in that the application in processing mode is performed for a period ranging from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the patch has an adhesive power on dry skin of between approximately 300 and approximately 800 g / cm ² . Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the patch has an adhesive power in the wet state of between approximately 20 and approximately 300 g / cm ² . Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically active compound is chosen from water-soluble active ingredients such as ascorbic acid and its biologically compatible salts, enzymes, antibiotics, components with a tensor effect, α-hydroxy acids and their salts, hydroxylated polyacids, sucroses and their derivatives, urea, amino acids, oligopeptides, water-soluble plant and yeast extracts, protein hydrolysates, hyaluronic acid, mucopolysaccharides, vitamins B ₂ , B ₆ , H, PP, panthenol, folic acid, acetyl salicylic acid, allantoin, glycyrrhetic acid, kojic acid, hydroquinone. Treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically active compound is chosen from liposoluble compounds such as D-α-tocopherol, DL-α-tocopherol, D-α-tocopherol acetate, acetate of DL-α-tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F and vitamin F glycerides, vitamins D, vitamin D ₂ , vitamin D ₃ , retinol, retinol esters, retinol palmitate, retinol propionate, β-carotene, D- panthenol, farnesol, farnesyl acetate; jojoba and blackcurrant oils rich in essential fatty acids; keratolytics such as salicylic acid, its salts and its esters, n-octanoyl-5 salicylic acid and its esters, alkyl esters of α-hydroxy acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid; asian acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, total extract of centella asiatica, β-glycyrrhetinic acid, α-bisabolol, ceramides such as 2 oleoylamino-1,3 octadecane; phytanetriol, milk sphingomycline, phospholipids of marine origin rich in essential polyunsaturated fatty acids, ethoxyquin; rosemary extract, lemon balm extract, quercetin, dried microalgae extract, steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the keratolytic agent is chosen from: alpha- and beta-hydroxy-carboxylic acids or beta-ketocarboxylates, their salts, amides or esters and more particularly alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, acid lactic, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid and generally fruit acids and beta hydroxy acids like salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular alkylated, such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the emollient agent is chosen from: volatile or non-volatile silicones, polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers; natural oils or synthetics such as mineral, vegetable and animal oils; fats and waxes; alcohols and fatty acids, and their esters; esters and ethers of (poly) alkylene glycols; hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, petrolatum, squalane; lanolic alcohol and its derivatives; triglycerides animal and vegetable; stearyl alcohol. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the hydrating agent is chosen from: glycerol, sorbitol and its derivatives, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol: D-, or DL-panthenol and their derivatives. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the softening agent is chosen from: allantoin. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the desquamating agent is chosen from: alkylated derivatives of salicylic acid n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, alpha- and beta-hydroxy-carboxylic acids or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the anti-wrinkle and tensor agents are chosen from: alpha- and beta-hydroxy-carboxylic acids or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters; salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, azelaic acid, retinol and their derivatives. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the sun protection agent is chosen from UV-A filters and / or UV-B filters. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the soothing agent is chosen from: α-bisabolol. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the self-tanning agent is chosen from: dihydroxy acetone and derivatives hydroxy naphthoquinone. Treatment method according to claim 8, characterized in that the lightening agent is chosen from: citric acid, hydroquinone, acid kojique, ascorbic acid. Treatment method according to any one of the claims previous, characterized in that the polymer matrix of the patch contains a acrylic or vinyl polymer. Treatment method according to any one of the claims above, characterized in that the water-absorbing compound is chosen among the superabsorbent crosslinked polyacrylates; polyvinyl alcohol; the carboxyvinyl polymers; semi-synthetic cellulose derivatives; starches; biogums such as xanthan gums, guar gums, gum arabic and tragacanth, biosaccharides, scleroglucans; the casein; phytocolloids, such as alginates; gelatin and fiber cotton. Treatment method according to any one of the claims previous, characterized in that the patch comprises at least one protuberance, able to form a gripping area for detachment. Treatment method according to any one of the claims previous, characterized in that the polymer matrix is colored with so as to be able to visually quantify and / or qualify the impurities sampled by said adhesive surface, in cleaning mode. Treatment method according to claim 31, characterized in that the polymer matrix of the patch is colored by incorporating pigments colored. Treatment method according to claim 31 or 32, characterized in that the color of the polymer matrix is dark, so as to achieve a sufficient contrast to highlight the impurities extracted from the skin. Treatment method according to any one of the claims above, characterized in that the polymer matrix has a weft, made of a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven, in a nonwoven, in a perforated nonwoven. Treatment method according to any one of the claims previous, characterized in that the patch includes a sheet of protection, peelable before application of the patch, and impermeable to (x) compound (s) used in the composition of the polymeric layer. Treatment method according to claim 35, characterized in that the protective sheet of the patch consists of two parts overlapping on a middle portion of the patch. Treatment method according to any one of the claims previous, characterized in that the shape of the patch is adapted to the shape of the nose, lips, the area between the nose and upper lip, or to treat crow's feet from the outer corner of the eye, the bags below the eye, or forehead wrinkles. Patch consisting of a polymer matrix deposited on a support, said matrix being self-adhesive on dry skin, and containing at least one cosmetically active compound, and at least one water-absorbing compound, said patch being capable of being applied selectively: a) in cleaning mode on dry skin, detachment of the patch after application allowing, under the mechanical action resulting from the adhesion of the patch, to rid the skin of the impurities which it contains, or b) in wet treatment mode, the water-absorbing compound (s) making it possible, on the one hand, by partially drying the skin, to maintain adhesion of the matrix to the skin, which adhesion is reduced compared to with adhesion of the matrix to dry skin, and secondly, by absorbing water, to resolubilize all or part of the cosmetically active compounds contained in the matrix to bring them into contact with the skin for the entire duration of application , forming an interface layer between the matrix and the skin. Patch according to claim 38 characterized in that the matrix contains particles of hydroabsorbents, and optionally of active compounds, or agglomerates of such particles, emerging in the dry state with respect to the average surface of the matrix, and capable of forming said interface layer in the state wet. Patch according to claim 39 characterized in that said particles or agglomerates of particles protrude from the average surface of the matrix, from a height ranging from 10 microns to 100 microns, and preferably from 10 µm to 70 µm. Patch according to any one of claims 38 to 40 characterized in what the interface layer formed in the wet state to a thickness included between 50µm and 100 µm