US2354205A - Collar and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

Y H. GLEEKMAN COLLAR AND METHOD 0F MAKING THE SAME AJah,v 25, 1944.

Filed April 7, -133455 2 l'xeetsfsheei.- 1

\nvenov. -GleeKmcxn July 25, 1944. v H. GLEEKMAN 2,354,205

COLLAR AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed April '7, 1943 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 lnvenor. Hurry G\eeKmc1 n by @MME-mr Patented July 25, 1944 OFFICE COLLAR AND METHOD F MAKING THE SAME Harry Gleekman, Boston, Mass.

Application April 7, 1943, Serial No. 482,119

7 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in collars for shirts and the general object of the invention is to provide a collar which will maintain its proper shape notwithstanding repeated laundering of the collar.

Usual commercial constructions are such that when permanently secured to the shirt or def Usually collars are so constructed that when.

worn the upper edges of the ends of the collar become quite widely separated by the tie which underlies the ends of the collar.

A further object of the invention is to provide a collar in which the upper edges of the ends will abut or at least lie in very close proximity to each other notwithstanding the presence of the tie therebeneath.

Another object of the invention is to provide a method of constructing a collar oi the character above described fabricated from an outside or face section and an inside section, preferably with the lining therebetween, and in which the outer section is of sufilciently greater fullness to counteract the tendency of the collar to curve concavely outwardly and upwardly.

These and other objects and features of the invention will more fully appear from the following description and the accompanying drawings and will be particularly pointed out in the claims.

The drawings illustrate a collar cf the character above described, the several members thereof, and the manner in which they are assembled.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a collar embodying the invention;

Fig. 2 is an elevation of the outside or face section of the collar;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the inside section of the collar illustrating, in conjunction with Fig. 2, by dotted lines, its lesser length;

Fig. 4 is a. plan view of the lining of the collar having fabric reenforcements stitched to it by gathering stitches;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the members of the collar superimposed for preliminary basting of the outer face section to the inner section, its lining and reenforcement, corner portions of the inner section, the lining and the reenforcement being turned upwardly to illustrate the manner in which they are superimposed;

Fig. 6 is a vertical sectional view on line 6 6 Fig. 5, illustrating the manner in which the reenforcing section is secured to the inner section and the .manner in which the inner section, lining, and outer section are basted together adjacent the lower edge thereof;

Fig. 7 is a detail view of part of an end portion oi' a collar illustrating the manner in which the members oi the collar are stitched together in assembled relation;

Fig. 8 is a sectional view on line 8-8 Fig. 7 showing the manner in which the outside of the collar is folded upon the basting seam and secured thereto by gathering stitches for the inner section which prevent the collar from concavely curving outwardly and upwardly.

Fig. 9 is an inside view oi' an end portion of the finished collar showing the manner in which the members of the band are stitched together and to the collar and the construction of the band which holds the upper edges of the collar in abutment or in close proximity; and I Fig. l0 is a view of an end portion of the lining of the collar having a modied form of reenforcement applied thereto.

The collar embodying the present invention is preferably, but not necessarily. ci the soft collar type adapted to form a part of a complete shirt or which may be in the form of a separate collar adapted to be detachably buttoned upon the collar band of the shirt.

The collar comprises an outside or face section and an inside section of substantially shorter length and narrower width so secured to the outside or face section as to provide greater fullness in the latter which will prevent outward and upward curling of the points or side portions of the collar. The collar desirably is provided with a lining or stiiening member which may in turn be supplemented by suitable reenforcing means of the character hereinafter described.

In order clearly to describe the construction of the collar the steps ol' its manufacture will first be described.

The rst step comprises cutting an outside section l 'of suitable length and style, such for example, as a fifteen inch collar, which is shown in the drawings on a somewhat reduced scale in Fig. 2. Second, cutting the inside section 2 of the collar, which, as illustrated in Fig. 3,y is complementary to but of substantially less width and length than the outside section I. Third, cutting a lining 3, which desirably is made of canvas, or

The reenforcements l are of the same contouras that of the lining but considerably narrower and are spaced equal distances from the ends and edges of the lining and desirably are secured to the lining by lines of gathering stitches which are parallel to and suitably spaced from the edges of the reenforcement. The term gathering stitches" is used herein as defining machinemade stitches of the lock stitch type formed during the penetration of the needle thread through the superimposed layers in cooperation with feeding mechanism engaging the outer layer, the tension on the needle thread being sumciently greater than the tension on the locking thread gradually to contract the layer which is engaged by the Ineedle thread and particularly when properly manipulated by the machine operator to prvide greater fullness in the layer which is engaged by the feeding mechanism.

The reenforcing member 4 may be further. secured to the canvas lining by'one or more lines of preferably gathering stitches 6.

When the parts are thus formed the outside face section and the lining with its reenforcement are superimposed upon the inside layer as illustrated in Fig. 5 and basted together by a line of stitching 1 in close proximity to the lower edges thereof, as illustrated in Fig. 6.

The inside layer 2 is thereupon turned or folded upon the basting seam 'I in contact with the reenforcement 4, as illustrated in Fig. 8. The edges of the ends of the collar are hemmed together in the usual manner and a line of gathering stitching 8 is stitched in proximity to the lower edge of the collar and also at a preferably equal distance from the ends of the collar. In thus stitching the parts together the needle is caused to penetrate through the inside layer, the lining, and the outside layer in the direction of the arrow shown in Fig. 8, the feeding mechanism of the machine engaging the outside layer I. inasmuch as the locking thread which is laid upon the outside layer is of lesser tension than the tension upon the needle thread the operator can so manipulate the parts in opposition to the feed to assemble the parts together with a greater fullness in the outside layer both lengthwise and transversely therebfy providing a construction which will resist outward and upward curling of the points in the sides of the collar.

The collar parts thus assembled may be secured to a suitable band which in turn may be secured to the shirt in the usual manner.

'I'he collar band 9 desirably is formed of an outside member, an inside member, and a lining, the members being secured together by gathering stitches of the character above described in order to provide a greater fullness in the member of the band which lies adjacent to the inner section of the collar.

The band may then be attached to the open upper edges of the inside and outside collar members by a hemmed seam. In thus securing the band to the collar gathering stitches are again employed for progressively contracting the band from the ends of the collar toward the center thereof thereby to cause the collar to maintain a proper curvature when permanently attached to the shirt band or buttoned upon it. The

collar band projects a shorter distance from the ends of the collar members I and 2 than in usual constructions and is provided with suitable buttonholes In so located that when the collar il buttoned the upper edges I I of the collar will abut or lie in very close proximity thereby enabling the collar to present a better appearance when worn than collars heretofore constructed. This is particularly important in connection with the collar construction which prevents concave outward curvature of the ends and sides of the collar.

A modied form of reeneforcement for the collar is illustrated in Fig. l0 which illustrates the lining 3 (Fig. 4) having stitched to it a reenforcement V4 but in addition provided with strips of tape I2 and I3 which respectively overlie the end and lower edges of the reenforcement and are secured thereto by lines of stitching I4 and l5.

By reason of the construction above described the parts of the collar are secured in permanently assembled relation which will permit repeated launderings of the collar without relative displacement of any of the parts thereof and which will maintain such greater fullness of the face section of the collar as to avoid the tendency to curl which is prevalent in usual types of collars.

It will be understood that the particular embodiment of the invention disclosed herein is of an illustrative character and is not restrictive and that modifications in style, construction and in the method of assembling the parts of the collar together may be made as are within the knowledge and scope of those skilled in the art within the meaning and scope of the following claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new, and desired to be secured by Letters Patent, is:

1. A fabricated ccuar for shirts comprising an -outside face section and a complementary inside section of substantially shorter length and substantially narrower width than the face section stitched thereto in parallelism with and in proximity to the ends and lower edges by a lock stitch seam of gathering stitches in which the locking thread lies on the outside of the face section and the greater tension of the needle thread causes such fullness in the face section as to prevent the side and corner portions of the collar from concavely curving outwardly.

2. A fabricated collar for shirts comprising an outside face section and a complementary inside section of substantially shorter length and substantially narrower width than the face section stitched thereto in parallelism with and in proximity to the ends and lower edges by a lock stitch seam of gathering stitches in which the locking thread lies on the outside of the face section and the greater tension of the needle thread causes such fullness in the face section as to prevent the side and corner portions of the collar from concavely curving outwardly, and a collar band having an outside section, a lining and an inside section seamed together by like gathering stitches acting progressively on the inside section between the center of the upper edge of the band and the ends thereof maintain proper curvature of the collar and insure proper fitting thereof on the shirt band.

lining of substantially equal area to that of the inside section basted thereto in parallelism with and in proximity to the ends and lower edges thereof, a fabric reenforcement complementary to said lining of narrow width and approximately one-third of the length of the lining and substantially equally spaced from the ends and edges thereof and stitched to said lining by a lock stitch seam of gathering stitches parallel to and in proximity to the edgesv of said reenforcement, and a lock stitch seam securing said inside section to said face section and to said lining along the ends and lower edges thereof in properly spaced relation to said edges in which the locking thread lies on the face section and the greater tension of the needle thread produces such fullness in the outer section as to prevent the collar from concavely curving outwardly.

4. A fabricated collar for shirts comprising an outside face section, a complementary lining of substantially equal area basted thereto in parallelism with and in proximity to the ends and lower edges thereof, a fabric reenforcement complementary to said lining of narrow width and approximately one-third of the length of the lining and substantially equally spaced fror; the ends and edges thereof, a narrow tape parallel to and partly overlying the end and lower edge of said reenforcement, lines of gathering stitching adjacent to the respective edges of said tape and reenforcement securing said tape and reenforcement to said lining, and an inside section secured to said face section and lining along the ends and lower edge thereof in properly spaced relation thereto by a lock stitch seam of gathering stitches with the locking thread lying on the face of the outside section.

5. Steps in the method of fabricating a collar for shirts which comprise cutting an outside face section, cutting a complementary inside section of substantially shorter length and narrower width, basting the inner section to the outer sec--y tion along and adjacent to the lower edges thereof while progressively stretching the inner section, folding the sections along said basted edge, hemming together the ends of said sections and securing the sections together by a seam of lock stitch gathering stitches in parallelism with and in suitable proximity to said ends and lower edge having the locking thread lying on the outside of the face section and the greater tension of the needle thread acting to provide such fullness in the outer face section relatively to the inner section as will prevent the collar from concavely curving outwardly.

6. Steps in the method of fabricating a collar for shirts which comprise cutting an outside face section, cutting a lining of equal area and basting it to said face section in proximity to the end and lower edge thereof, cutting a complementary inside section of substantially shorter length and narrower width, basting the inner section to the outer section along and adjacent to the lower edges thereof while progressively stretching the inner section, folding the sections along said basted edge, hemming together the ends of said sections and securing the sections together by a loclgstitch seam in which the locking thread lies on the outer face of the collar in parallelism with and in suitable proximity to said ends and lower edge with the tension of the needle thread acting to provide such fullness in the outer face section relatively to the inner section as will prevent the collar from concavely curving outwardly.

'7. Steps in the method of fabricating a collar for shirts which comprise cutting an outside face section, cutting a lining of equal area and basting it to said face section in proximity to the end and lower edge thereof, cutting a complementary inside section of substantially shorter length and narrower Width, basting the inner section to the outer section along and adjacent to the lower edges thereof while progressively stretching the inner section, folding the sections along said basted edge, hemming together the ends of said sections and securing the sections together by a lock stitch seam in which the locking thread lies on the outer face of the collar in parallelism with and in suitable proximity to said ends and lower edge with the greater tension of the needle thread acting to providel greater fullness in the face section than in the lining and inside section, securing a band to the upper edges of said face and inner sections by like gathering stitches and so manipulating the respective sections during the stitching as progressively to decrease the contraction of the gathering stitches from the respective ends of the band toward the center thereof.

HARRY GLEEKMAN.

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