US3503821A - Method for reinforcing textile garments and the garments manufactured thereby - Google Patents

Description

March 31, 1970 c. E. CONKLIN 3,503,821

METHOD FOR REINFORCING TEXTILE'GARMENTS AND THE GARMENTS MANUFACTURED THEREBY origin-a1 Filed sept. 22, 1967 IN VEN TOR. C4 #Y TON E. co/vz nv,

United States Patent Office 3,503,821 Patented Mar. 31, 1970 U.S. Cl. 156-228 9 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE An improved textile garment whose woven fabric is reinforced at locations subjected to more than normal wear. The reinforcement consists of a coalescence of thermoplastic film and fabric fibers at said garment locations. The film partially encapsulates the fibers of the fabric.

The film is first adhered to the surface fibers on one surface of the fabric by heat and pressure, cooled, and the fabric is then baked in an oven to soften the film, polymerize a resin which impregnates the fabric and form the coalescence. The softened film adheres to and partially encapsulates the fibers, is prevented from peeling, and leaves the fabric porous through its interstices. Because of the partial encapsulation, the film is not visible from the outer surface of the garment fabric. The film also locks the fibers in place and to each other, and increases their wear resistance.

This application is a division of my co-pending application, Ser. No. 669,904, filed Sept. 22, 1967, now U.S. Patent No. 3,394,405.

This invention relates to an improved textile garment and to a method for reinforcing the fabric of the garment to increase its wear resistance.

In recent years, much effort has been made to improve the wear characteristics of textile garments. This problem is particularly acute where the garment, such as a pair of slacks, is subjected to a permanent-crease process, commonly known as the Koratron process, described in detail in U.S. Patent 2,974,432. In this process, the garment fabric is treated with polymerizable resins, creased, and baked in an oven to cure the resins to effect their polymerization to a water-insoluble state, thereby enabling the garment to retain its crease when washed. However, it has been found that when the fabric is baked, the fabric is weakened because the fibers are partially disintegrated. Although the fabric will retain its crease when washed, it will wear more readily. This occurs usually at a point subjected to severe stress, such as at the knees, in a pair of permanent-crease slacks.

It has been recognized that the abrasion resistance and tensile strength of a textile fabric can be greatly increased by reinforcing the fabric with a resinous material. However, where the treated fabric is to be used to manufacture a consumer textile garment, various results obtained by such treatments are highly undesirable.

For example, laminated resin films adhered by heat and pressure to the surface of the fabric only, will readily peel after the garment has undergone cleaning operations. The bonding strength of the resin to the surface of the fibers is incapable of withstanding repeated forces applied to the garment during a washing process. The film also thickens the fabric, rendering it inflexible and uncomfortable to wear.

If more heat and pressure is applied to the lamination,

to cause the resin to melt and flow through the interstices in the textile fabric to completely encapsulate the fibers, the resin will be visible on the garment, particularly if applied only to an isolated area, such as the knees in a pair of slacks, thereby detracting from the appearance of the garment. Furthermore, with the interstices filled with resin, the garment fabric is rendered non-porous, preventing evaporation of perspiration, and heat-transfer through the fabric to the discomfort of the wearer.

Many of these problems are also present when the textile fabric is coated with a resin and the resin cured and set under heat and pressure. Coating the fibers of the fabric with a resin by spraying, washing or dipping, or the like will enable the coating to bleed or seep through the fabric interstices. The fabric is substantially stiffened and the coating is visible, detracting from the appearance ofthe garment, particularly when it is applied to isolated areas on the garment, which are subjected to severe stresses.

I have discovered and perfected a process for treating the textile fabric of a garment with a thermoplastic film so as to increase its abrasion resistance and tensile strength, but which will not result in a textile garment having any of the aforementioned undesirable characteristics. In my process, a thermoplastic film is coalesced withthe textile fabric in such a manner as to partially encapsulate the fibers of the fabric on one surface of the fabric. Preferably, this reinforcement is made at locations on the garment subjected to severe stresses. Because the fibers are partially encapsulated, the bonding strength of the film to the fabric is such that the film will not peel after repeated use and cleaning of the garment. The film is not visible on the outer surface of the fabric, so that the reinforcement may be applied to isolated areas of a textile garment.

Furthermore, I have been able to control the encapsulation of the fibers of the fabric to the extent that the interstices in the fabric are not filled by the film, leaving'the fabric porous. Thus heat transfer through the fabric remains unblocked, and evaporation of perspira tion can take place, rendering the garment comfortable for wear.

I have also discovered that the temperature used in the oven of the Koratron process is ideal for coalescence of the film and fabric in the manner stated heretofore. This enables me to carry out both processes at the same time, preserving valuable production time. It also enables me to reinforce the weakened fibers of permanent-creased fabrics on textile garments, such as slacks.

Accordingly, it is an object of this invention to provide an improved, reinforced textile garment, exhibiting increased wear resistance and tensile strength, but which retains the desirable qualities of porosity, invisibility of the reinforcement, and crease retention.

A further object of this invention is to provide a method for manufacturing such improved textile garments, said method being susceptible of being carried out simultaneously with a process for imparting a permanent crease on the garment.

Further objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following description and claims, and from the accompanying drawings, wherein:

'FIGURE l shows a cross-section through the faces of the textile fabric of the garment after it has been treated in accordance with the present invention;

FIGURE 2 shows a treated surface of the fabric;

FIGURE 3 is an elevational view of a pair of slacks turned inside out, whose inner surface fabric has been reinforced in accordance with this invention, at the area of the knees; and

FIGURE 4 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view illustrating the initial step in my process of applying the reinforcing film to the garment illustrated in FIGURE 3.

Referring now in detail to the drawing, wherein like numerals indicate like elements throughout the several views, a textile garment fabric 10, treated in accordance with the method of the present invention, is illustrated.

Fabric 10 includes warp fibers 12, interwoven with -filling fibers 14. The interstices 16 between the adjacent woven fibers are substantially porous, as shown.

A thermoplastic film 18, applied to fabric 10, partially encapsulates the fibers adjacent the inner surface 20 of the fabric of the garment. As shown in FIGURES l and 2, film 18 incompletely Wraps around a major portion of each of the fibers adjacent surface 20, and coats a minor portion of the inner surface of the fibers adjacent outer fabric surface 22. Because film 18 wraps around the fibers adjacent inner surface 20, the interstices 16 remain substantially porous, except that film 18 will pick up the thin nap hairs 24 on adjacent fibers and adhesively lock them together across the interstices 16, forminga network 26. The nap hairs 24 adjacent outer surface 22 of fabric 10 remain free, and outer surface 22 is not coated with lm 18.

Film 18, partially encapsulating the fibers of fabric 10, will not peel from the fabric because they are bonded to a major portion of the surfaces of at least some of the fibers. Yet, the film does not soak through the fibers, or encapsulate the fibers adjacent outer surface 22, and is hence hidden.

The film 18 increases the tensile strength and wear resistance of fabric 10, and provides a firm backing for the outer surface 24 of the fabric by locking the fibers adjacentthereto in place to resist abrasion. Portions of the nap of the fibers are also locked together to form a network which further strengthens the fabric.

The method of manufacturing fabric 10 is carried out by first adhering the thermoplastic film 18 only to the inner surface 20 of fabric 10, such as at the interior surface of knees 28 of a pair of slacks 30, by heat and pressure. I have found that a thermoplastic film, such as a vinyl chloride acrylate, a phenolic ethyl acrylate polymer, or styrene based polymers will provide satisfactory results, and will not substantially stiffen the fabric. The film should be2 or 3 mils thick, and can be handled with a suitable release paper adhered to one surface.

Care must be taken when adhering the film or patch t the garment fabric. Sufficient heat and pressure must be applied so that the film will bond to the fabric surface, yet if too much heat and pressure are applied to the film or garment, or the application is for too long a time interval, the dye on the garment may fade (the dye will be absorbed into the film) or the fabric will scorch. Too much heat and pressure may also cause oxidation of the film or cause the film to bleed through the fabric.

Therefore, depending upon the weight of the garment fabric, the particular dye covering the fabric, and the properties of the thermoplastic film, certain ranges of temperature, pressure, and time of application should be o bserved. Depending upon these variables, I have found that the thermoplastic film can be set satisfactorily if the temperature of the pressing element is in the range of 350 F. to 450 F., the pressure applied 20 to 100 pounds per square inch, and the time of application 4 to 15 seconds. I also prefer to apply the film by disposing the fabric and film between a pair of heated, porous platens 32, 34 so that any gas evolved from heating the film can escape.

After the film has been applied to the surface of the fabric, the release paper is stripped from the film, and the fabric of the garment is immediately cooled to room temperature by directing a stream of air against the reinforced area of the garment, or by passing the heated, reinforced area by a cryogenic or refrigerated plate. This will prevent the fabric from scorching, and if the garment is to have a permanent crease, it will prevent the Koratron resins 4 from being polymerized and set to a water-soluble state before the garment has been creased.

The garment, if it is to retain a permanent crease, such as a pair of slacks or jeans, is then creased. If the reinforcement is applied at the knees, creasing the fabric will normally cause adjacent areas of the reinforcing film to adhere because of the folding and pressing the slack leg under heat and pressure. To prevent adherence of the film to itself When the garment is folded, I spray a silicone solution on the back of the exposed surface of the film. DOW Corning 200 Fluid of 35,000 centipoises is preferred and is mixed with a chlorethane or aromatic hydrocarbon solvent, so that the solvent is by voume of the solution. Also, adherence can be prevented by leaving therelease paper until the crease is formed, and after the creasing, the paper is removed.

After the crease has been formed, the garment containing the reinforcement, such as a pair of slacks, is fed through an oven at a temperature range of between 275 F. to 450 F., for approximately 8 to 20 minutes. The heat of the oven not only cures and polymerizes the Koratron resins to a water-insoluble state, but softens the thermoplastic reinforcement film causing it to flow sufficiently to partially encapsulate the fibers of the fabric, as shown in FIGURES l and 2, and to lock and fuse the nap across the interstices of the fabric. The reinforcement does not encapsulate the fibers completely or soak through the fabric to the outer surface of the garment.

The fabric also retains its porosity, since the fiber is initially adhered to the inner surface of the fabric only, and there will be voids under the film at the interstices 16. As the film is reheated in the oven, that portion which is firmly attached to the fabric will be more restricted to flow than the portion which has voids under it. Consequently, the film will fiow in the path of least resistance, wrapping around a major portion of the inner surface fibers, leaving the interstices in the fabric substantially unblocked.

If the garment is not of the permanent crease variety, application of Dow Corning 200 Fluid to the exposed surface of the reinforcement, as directed heretofore, will enable subsequent pressing operations to be made.

Fabrics treated as described above were tested for their abrasion resistance on a Wizzenbeck abrasion testing machine. On the average, it took 7889 cycles to cause rupture of the reinforced fabric, compared with an average 1509 cycles for the same fabric without any reinforcement.

Actual wear tests found that reinforced slacks lasted six to eight times longer than those that were not reinforced.

Specific examples demonstrating the process of my invention are set forth below, but are set forth only by way of demonstration and not limitation, and therefore are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the inven tion to the specific details set forth. v

EXAMPLE I In carrying out this invention, a phenolicethyl acrylate film sold by B. F. Goodrich Co., of Akron, Ohio, under the trademark Fabrilock was adhered by heat and pressure to the inner surface of the fabric of a pair of slacks at the knees. The fabric of the garment was a l2 oz. vat dyed denim, 65% cotton, 35% Kodel polyester woven from single yarns. The dye on the fabric was navy blue Canton No. 001. The film was adhered to the fabric between porous platens heated between 435 F. and 450 F., and a pressure of 75 pounds per square inch for approximately 10 seconds was applied. The film was then cooled to room temperature and its exposed surface sprayed With a solution of Dow Corning 200 Fluid (20% by volume) and chlorethane (80% by volume). A crease was formed in each leg of the slacks, and the film reinforcement did not adhere to itself. The garments Were then passed through a heated oven at approximately 350 F. for approximately 12 minutes forming a coalescence of film and fabric. The reinforced area was then examined under a microscope and the fibers of the fabric were found to be partially encapsulated, as shown in FIGURES 1 and 2 of the drawings. The fabric was also porous. The reinforcement was not visible from the outer surface of the garment, and the garment dye had not faded.

EXAMPLE II The process described in Example I was repeated, except that the Fabrilock film was adhered to a 4fabric which was 9 ounces weight and 50% Fortrel polyester, 50% cotton, plied yarns, piece dyed light blue with Galey and Lord No. 292. The film was adhered to the fabric between porous platens heated to 350 F., and exerting a pressure of 75 pounds per square inch for 4.5 seconds. After spraying and creasing, the slacks were sent through the oven as in Example I and the result was the same as in Example I.

EXAMPLE III The process described in the preceding example was repeated, except that a vinyl chloride acrylate film was adhered to a pair of slacks containing the same fabric composition and dye as in Example II. The film was adhered to the fabric between porous platens heated to 400 F., and pressure applied at 75 pounds per square inch for 5 seconds. The slacks were sent through the oven as in Example I. While the partial encapsulation of the fibers was not as deep as when the Fabrilock film was applied, there was some partial encapsulation and porosity in the fabric.

While specific embodiments of my invention have been disclosed in the foregoing description, it will be understood that various modifications within the spirit of the invention may occur to those skilled in the art. Therefore, it is intended that no limitations be placed on the invention except as defined by the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. The method of increasing the wear resistance of a textile fabric impregnated with resins polymerizable to a water-insoluble state, said method comprising the steps of:

directly adhering a polymer film to one surface of said fabric while said impregnated resins remain substantially unpolymerized, and thereafter coalescing said fabric and film at a temperature of 275 F. to 450 F. for a time sufficient to simultaneously set said impregnated resins to a water-insoluble state.

2. The method of claim 1 wherein said coalescing step is effected at a temperatre of 275 F. to 450 F. for approximately 8 to 20 minutes.

3. The method of claim 1 wherein said polymer film is thermoplastic, and said film is directly adhered to said fabric by the controlled application of heat and pressure to substantially preserve the color of said fabric, to prevent the fibers of said fabric from scorching, to. prevent the film from bleeding through said fabric to a point where it is visible from the opposite surface of said fabric, and to prevent said impregnated resins from completely polymerizing to a water-insoluble state.

4. The method of claim 1 wherein said polymer film is thermoplastic, and said thermoplastic film is directly adhered to said fabric by pressure applying elements heated to a temperature of 350 F. to 450 F., and said pressure is applied in the range of 20 to 100 pounds per square inch for 4 to l5 seconds.

5. The method of claim 4 wherein said thermoplastic film is adhered to said fabric between heated, porous platens.

6. The method of claim 1 wherein said polymer film is selected from the group consisting of 'vinyl chloride acrylate, phenol ethyl acrylate, and styrene based polymers.

7. The method of claim 1 wherein said coalescing step includes partially encapsulating the fibers of the fabric with said film.

8. The method of claim 7 wherein said fibers are partially encapsulated in a localized area of said fabric.

9. The method of claim 7 wherein during said coalescing step the nap on adjacent fibers of said fabric are locked together.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,310,453 3/1967 Lappala et al. 161-143 X 3,141,810 7/1964 Kuhn ct al 161--91 3,058,863 10/1962 Gaines et al. 161--91 3,023,482 3/1962 Gilboy et al. 161-91 2,994,940 8/ 1961 Ferrell et al. 161-92 X 2,631,958 3/1953 Francis 161-94 X 2,625,499 1/ 1953 Nebesar 161-95 ROBERT F. BURNETT, Primary Examiner M. A. LITMAN, Assistant Examiner U.S. Cl. X.R.

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