WO1991011985A1

WO1991011985A1 - Oxidative hair dyeing agent made from a liquid dye carrier substance and composition in emulsion form containing an oxidizing agent, and oxidative hair-dyeing process

Info

Publication number: WO1991011985A1
Application number: PCT/EP1991/000204
Authority: WO
Inventors: Johann Aeby; Herbert Mager
Original assignee: Wella Aktiengesellschaft
Priority date: 1990-02-19
Filing date: 1991-02-04
Publication date: 1991-08-22
Also published as: DE4005008C2; JPH04505459A; JPH0662395B2; DE4005008A1

Abstract

The invention relates to an oxidative hair-dyeing agent obtained by mixing a liquid dye-carrier substance with a viscosity less than 100 mPa.s at 30 degrees Celsius and an oxidizing agent in emulsion form containing 2.5 to 12 wt.% of at least one C10-C24 fatty alcohol and a composition containing an oxidizing agent in a weight ratio of 1:1.5 to 1:4. The invention also relates to an oxidative hair-dyeing process using this agent. The new agent prevents the unattractive darkening of the hair which occurs after the use of conventional oxidative hair-dyeing agents, as well as the unpleasant smell due to the production of highly volatile ammonia. It is also well tolerated by the skin.

Description

Oxidation hair coloring agent from a liquid color carrier and an emulsion-like, oxidizing agent-containing composition and process for the oxidative coloring of hair.

Description

The invention relates to a means for oxidative

Dyeing hair by mixing a liquid

Dye carrier mass and an emuIsionsiform, 2.5 to

12 percent by weight of at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ fatty alcohol of natural or synthetic origin and an oxidizing agent-containing preparation in one

Ratio of 1: 1.5 to 1: 4 is obtained, as well as a process for the oxidative dyeing of hair.

Oxidation hair colors are, just as in the past, a central component of a cosmetic product range used for hair treatment. They consist of two components, which are mixed shortly before use and then applied to the hair to be colored.

The first component, the dyestuff, contains the dyestuff substances. You can as

Liquid, gel or as an emulsion. The second component is an aqueous, creamy or powdery product in which a suitable oxidizing agent is contained. The coloration results from the reaction of certain developer substances with certain coupler substances in the presence of a suitable oxidizing agent, for example hydrogen peroxide. 1,4-Diaminobenzene, 2,5-diaminotoluene, 2,5-diaminophenylethanol, 4-aminophenol and 4-amino-3-methylphenol are preferably used as developer substances. Examples of common coupler substances are resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, sesamol, 2-methylresorcinol, 3-aminophenol, 4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-1,2-methylenedioxybenzene and 2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) - anisole.

Coloring compounds are preferably used in liquid form in some countries, for example in the USA. Liquid colorants are also of great importance in the area of public hair colors. They have the advantage that the raw materials they contain are available inexpensively and that the liquid colorant masses are easy to produce in terms of production technology.

In dyeing practice, the liquid dye compositions are mostly used in conjunction with aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions, for example in a ratio of 1: 1 or 1: 2. The mixing of the liquid color carrier mass with the hydrogen peroxide solution can take place, for example, in an application bottle with which the ready-to-use oxidation hair colorant is applied to the hair to be colored after mixing.

However, liquid dyes have a number of serious disadvantages. The liquid colorants quickly turn dark after adding the hydrogen peroxide solution. The hair brought into contact with the ready-to-use oxidation hair dye takes on the coloring much more slowly. The premature darkening of the hair of the oxidation hair has the disadvantageous effect that the coloring agent is rinsed out too early, so that the intended color intensity is often not achieved by a too short exposure time on the hair.

The usual liquid colorants also have the disadvantage that they very easily release the ammonia contained in the environment, which has an undesirable odor nuisance. In addition, liquid hair dyes are known for their inadequate skin tolerance, especially if they serve to lighten the hair.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide an agent for the oxidative dyeing of hair on the basis of a liquid dyestuff and a hair dyeing process using this agent, which has the disadvantages described of known agents based on liquid dyestuffs for oxidative dyeing of hair does not have.

It has now been found that agents for the oxidative dyeing of hair can be prepared by mixing a liquid colorant and an emulsion-like preparation containing the oxidizing agent which are well tolerated by the skin and in which the premature darkening, which adversely affects the coloring result, after the admixing of the oxidizing agent, largely is avoided and which, compared to known agents, emits a far lower odor burden due to ammonia escaping from the agent. The present invention therefore relates to compositions for the oxidative dyeing of hair, obtained by mixing a component (A) which is a liquid colorant composition with a viscosity below 100 mPa.s at 30 degrees Celsius, and a component (B) which is an emulsion , 2.5 to 12 percent by weight of at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ fatty alcohol of natural or synthetic origin and a composition containing an oxidizing agent, in the weight ratio of component (A) to component (B) 1: 1.5 to 1: 4 .

In a particular embodiment of the agent according to the invention, the weight ratio of component (A) to component (B) is 1: 2 to 1: 3. The viscosity of the liquid colorant composition was 30 at 30 using a Haake-Visco balance (rod II, 5 grams) Degrees Celsius.

The one in the emulsion-shaped, oxidizing agent

Component (B) contained fatty alcohol of natural or synthetic origin is preferably a C _{1 4} - bis

C ₂₀ fatty alcohol. Examples of fatty alcohols which can be contained in component (B) are cetyl and stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof.

Component (B) contains 1 to 18 percent by weight, but particularly preferably 4 to 14 percent by weight of an oxidizing agent. The main oxidizing agents used to develop hair color are hydrogen peroxide and its addition compounds to urea, melanin and sodium borate. Component (B) particularly preferably contains 1 to 18 percent by weight of hydrogen peroxide. Component (A) contains 2 to 30 percent by weight, particularly preferably 8 to 16 percent by weight, but saturated or unsaturated C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ fatty acids of natural or synthetic origin, but preferably C ₁₆ to

C _{2 2} fatty acids or mixtures thereof. Examples of such fatty acids which can be contained in component (A) are erucic acid, myristic acid, ricinoleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid. The fatty acids are preferably dissolved in the hair dye according to the invention by the addition of ammonia in the form of their ammonium soaps. Instead of ammonia, however, aliphatic amines, for example monoethanolamine, can also be used.

Component (A) can further contain 2 to 30, but preferably 12 to 28, percent by weight of low molecular weight C _{1 to} C ₄ alcohols, C ₂ to C ₆ glycols, such as, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopranol, ethylene glycol, 1,2 propylene glycol or butyl glycol, or mixtures thereof may be included.

Component (A) can also contain 0.1 to 25 percent by weight of nonionic emulsifiers. The hair dye according to the invention particularly preferably contains 10 to 20 percent by weight of nonionic emulsifiers. In particular, non-ionic emulsifiers which can be used are oxyethylated C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ -fatty alcohols or oxyethylated alkylphenols with a C ₆ -C ₁₄ -alkyl radical or mixtures thereof. The fatty alcohols and alkylphenols contained in component (A) are ethoxylated with 1 and 8, but preferably with 1 and 6, ethylene oxide units. Component (A) contains at least one coupler substance and at least one developer substance and, if appropriate, additionally with self-coupling color pre-mares and dyes which are absorbed directly onto the hair. The developer and coupler substances are used in the hair dye either as such or in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, such as, for example, chloride, sulfate, phosphate, acetate, propionate, lactate or citrate.

The coupler substances are generally used in an approximately equimolar amount, based on the developer substances used. Even if the equimolar use proves to be expedient, it is not disadvantageous if the coupler substances are used in a certain excess or deficit. It is also not necessary for the developer component and the coupler component to be uniform products; rather, both the developer component can be a mixture of known developer substances and the coupler component can be a mixture of known coupler substances.

The liquid colorant, component (A), contains known coupler substances, alone or as a mixture with one another, in particular 1-naphthol, 4-methoxy-1-napthol, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 4,6-dichlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 3 Aminophenol, 4-hydroxy-1,2-methylenedioxybenzene, 4-amino-1,2-methylenedioxybenzene, 4- (ß-hydroxyethylamino) -1,2-methylenedioxybenzene, 4-hydroxyindole,

5-hydroxy-benzodioxol- (1,3), 5-amino-benzodioxol- (1,3), 5 - ((2-hydroxyethyl) amino) benzodioxol- (1,3) and

5-amino-2-methylphenol. Other suitable coupler substances are, for example, 2,4-dihydroxyphenol ethers such as

2,4-dihydroxyanisole and 2,4-dihydroxyphenoxyethanol. Of the known developer substances, 1,4-diaminobenzene, 2,5-diaminotoluene, 2,5-diaminoanisole, 2,5-diaminobenzyl alcohol, 3-methyl-4-aminophenol, are the main constituents of the color carrier composition according to the invention.

2- (ß-Hydroxyethyl) -1,4-diaminobenzoL, tetraaminopyrimidine, 2- (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) ethanol and 4-aminophenol.

Oxidation dyes known and customary for hair coloring, which may be contained in component (A), are found, inter alia, in the book by E. Sagarin, "Cosmetics, Science and Technology", Interscience Pubtishers Inc., New York (1957), pages 503 ff. and in the book by H. Janistyn, "Handbook of cosmetics and fragrances"

(1973), pages 338 ff.

The total amount of the developer substance-coupler substance combination contained in component (A) should be 0.01 to 12.0 weight percent, in particular 0.2 to 4.0 weight percent.

To achieve certain color shades, conventional direct dyes, for example triphenylmethane dyes such as Diamond Fuchsine (CI 42 510) and Leather Ruby HF (CI 42 520), aromatic nitro dyes such as 2-amino-4,6-dinitro-phenol, 2-nitro- 4- (ß-hydroxyethylamino) aniline, 2-N-ß, -dihydroxypropylamino- 5- (N-methyl, N-hydroxyethyl) amino-nitrobenzene and 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, azo dyes such as Acid Brown 4 (CI 14 805) and Acid Blue 135 (CI 13 385), Anthrachi non-dyes such as Disperse Violet 4 (CI 61 105), Disperse Blue 1 (CI 64 500), Disperse Red 15 (CI 60 710), Disperse Violet 1 (CI 61 100), also 1, 4,5,8-tetra aminoanthraquinone and 1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, can be contained in component (A). Component (A) can also be used with self-coupling color precursors, such as 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-ethoxypheno L or also 2-propylamino-5- aminopyridine. The total amount of the direct dyes and of the self-coupling dye precursors in component (A) is 0.01 to 7.0 percent by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4.0 percent by weight.

In addition, in component (A) antioxidants such as ascorbic acid, resorcinol or sodium sulfite and

Complexing agents for heavy metals, for example ethylenediaminetetraacetate and nitriloacetic acid, can be contained in an amount of up to 0.5 percent by weight. Perfume oils can be contained in the color carrier composition according to the invention in an amount of up to 1 percent by weight. Component (A) can also contain wetting agents, emulsifiers,

Contain care agents, cationic resins and other common additives.

The above percentages by weight are not based on the ready-to-use agent, but in each case on component (A) or on component (B).

The ready-to-use agent for oxidative dyeing of the hair, which is formed by mixing component (A) with component (B) in a quantitative ratio according to the invention, can be acidic, neutral or alkaline. The pH of the agent for oxidative coloring of the hair according to the invention is preferably between 7.5 and 12.0.

When using the oxidation hair dye described above by the inventive method the liquid colorant composition (component (A)) is mixed with the hydrogen peroxide emulsion (component (B)) immediately before use in a weight ratio of 1: 1.5 to 1: 4 according to the invention, and an amount is sufficient for coloring the hair, depending on the fullness of the hair, generally 90 to 160 g, this mixture on the hair. The mixture is left to act on the hair at 15 to 50 degrees Celsius for about 5 to 60 minutes, preferably 30 minutes, then the hair is rinsed with water, washed if necessary, rinsed and

dries.

The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention in more detail.

B e i s p i e l e

Example 1: Oxidation hair dye for

Lighter color

liquid

Color carrier: 12.0 g erucic acid

(Component A) 15.0 g nonylphenol oxethylated with 4 mol ethylene oxide 0.05 g para-phenylenediamine 0.07 g resorcinol

5.0 g sodium lauryl alcohol diglycol ether sulfate, 28% aqueous solution 1.0 g ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt 25.0 g ethanot

23.43 g water

18.0 g ammonia, 25%

100.0 g water

Hydrogen peroxide emulsion: 10.0 g cetylstearyl alcohol

(Component B) 1.5 g cholesterol

4.0 g sodium lauryl alcohol diglycol ether sulfate, 28% aqueous solution 35.0 g hydrogen peroxide,

35%

0.3 g of perfume

49.0 g water

100.0 g Before use, 40 g of the liquid colorant composition are mixed with 80 g of the hydrogen peroxide emulsion, corresponding to a mixing ratio of 1: 2, 120 g of the mixture are applied to medium-brown human hair and the mixture is left to act for 20 minutes at room temperature. Then the hair dye mixture is mixed with

Rinsed out water and dried the hair. The hair treated in this way is colored evenly light brown from the roots to the ends of the hair. The agent according to the invention for oxidatively dyeing hair darkens only slightly after mixing the two components; smells only slightly of ammonia and is well tolerated by the skin.

Example 2: Oxidation hair dye liquid

Colorant; 12.0 g erucic acid

(Component A) 15.0 g nonylphenol, oxethylated with 4 moles of ethylene oxide

3.0 g sodium lauryl alcohol diglycol ether sulfate,

28% aqueous solution

0.1 g ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid

0.3 g ascorbic acid

2.8 g of 2,5-diaminotoluenesulfate

1.0 g resorcinol

0.4 g m-aminophenol

0.2 g of 2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) anisole sulfate

10.2 g ammonia, 25%

16.0 g ethanol

37.0 g water

100.0 g Hydrogen peroxide emulsion: 10.0 g cetylstearyl alcohol

(Component B) 1.5 g cholesterol

4.0 g of sodium lauryl alcohol diglycol ether sulfate,

28% aqueous solution 17.0 g hydrogen peroxide,

35%

0.3 g of perfume

67.0 g water

100.0 g

Before use, 40 g of the liquid colorant composition are mixed with 80 g of the hydrogen peroxide emulsion, corresponding to a mixing ratio of 1: 2, 120 g of the mixture are applied to gray, human hair and the mixture is left to act for 20 minutes at room temperature. The hair dye mixture is then rinsed out with water and the hair is dried. The agent according to the invention for oxidative dyeing of hair smells only slightly of ammonia, hardly darkens after the addition of the oxidizing agent and is well tolerated by the skin. The hair treated in this way has taken on an even, dark brown tone.

Example 3: Oxidation hair dye: liquid colorant: 12.0 g oleic acid

(Component A) 15.0 g of nonylphenol oxethylated with 4 moles of ethylene oxide 16.0 g of pure ethanol

5.0 g sodium lauryl alcohol diglycol ether sulfate,

28% aqueous solution 0.1 g of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt

0.3 g ascorbic acid

0.6 g 2,5-diaminotoluenesulfate 0.3 g resorcinol

0.02 g m-aminophenol

12.0 g ammonia, 25%

38.68 g water

100.0 g

Before use, 40 g of the liquid coloring material are mixed with 80 g of the hydrogen peroxide emulsion from Example 2 (component (B)), corresponding to one

Mixing ratio of 1: 2, applies 120 g of the mixture to gray, human hair and lets the mixture act for 20 minutes at room temperature. The hair dye mixture is then rinsed out with water and the hair is dried. The agent according to the invention for oxidative dyeing of hair smells only slightly of ammonia, hardly darkens after the addition of the oxidizing agent and is well tolerated by the skin. The gray hair treated in this way has taken on a uniform light blonde color. Comparative Example A: Skin tolerance in the

Lighter color

A half-side test is carried out to compare the skin tolerance of the oxidation hair dyeing agent according to the invention with known oxidation hair dyeing agents. A normal oxidation hair dye, which is prepared by mixing 20 g of the liquid colorant composition from Example 1 and 40 g of a conventional hydrogen peroxide preparation of the following composition, is applied to human, medium-brown hair on the left half of the head of ten test participants. Common hydrogen peroxide preparation:

35.0 g of hydrogen peroxide, 35%

62.0 g water

3.0 g copolymer of methacrylic acid and a polyethylene glycol stearyl ether, in which one or more monomers consist of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their simple esters and the polyethylene glycol stearyl ether contains twenty oxyethylene units

100.0 g

60 g of the ready-to-use oxidation hair dye according to the invention according to Example 1 are applied to the hair on the right half of the head of the test participants. Both agents are allowed to act on the hair and scalp for 20 minutes at room temperature, then rinsed out with water, the hair is washed with shampoo, rinsed and then dried. During the action of the two agents for oxidative dyeing of hair, the test subjects felt a significantly stronger burning sensation on the scalp on the left side of the head than on the right side of the head, which was treated with the oxidation hair dye according to the invention.

After washing out the two agents, the left shows

Head half of 30% of the participants showed a clear reddening of the scalp. The agent according to the invention did not cause reddening of the scalp in any of the test participants.

The comparison test shows convincingly the good skin compatibility of the oxidation hair dye according to the invention.

Comparative Example B: Ammonia smell of the agent

In order to compare the odor nuisance caused by escaping ammonia from the oxidation hair dye according to the invention with the odor nuisance caused by conventional oxidation hair dyes, a half-side test was carried out using a conventional oxidation hair dye.

The customary oxidation hair dye was first prepared by mixing 20 g of the liquid colorant composition according to Example 2 with 40 g of a customary hydrogen peroxide preparation of the following composition: Common hydrogen peroxide preparation:

17.0 g of hydrogen peroxide, 35%

81.5 g water

1.5 g copolymer of methacrylic acid and one

Polyethylene glycol stearyl ether in which one or more monomers consist of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their simple esters and the polyethylene glycol stearyl ether contains twenty oxyethylene units

100.0 g

60 g of this oxidation hair dye were then applied to the left half of the head of ten test subjects with gray hair.

60 g of the ready-to-use oxidation hair dye according to the invention for oxidative dyeing of hair according to Example 2, which were each applied to the right half of the head, served as a comparison.

Both mixtures were evaluated for their ammonia odor over a 20 minute exposure.

The hairdressers involved in the experiments came to the unanimous conclusion that the right half of the head treated with the agent according to the invention smelled significantly weaker of ammonia, while the left half of the head emitted a strong odor from escaping ammonia. Comparative Example C: Darkening of the two-component agent

In a further comparative experiment, the oxidative hair dye according to the invention according to Example 3 was compared with a customary oxidation hair dye with regard to the darkening of the mass after the two components had been mixed.

The usual oxidation hair dye was first prepared by mixing 20 g of the liquid colorant of Example 3 with 40 g of a conventional hydrogen peroxide preparation of the following composition: usual hydrogen peroxide preparation:

17.0 g of hydrogen peroxide, 35%

81.5 g water

1.5 g copolymer of methacrylic acid and a polyethylene glycol stearyl ether in which one or more or more monomers consist of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their simple esters and the polyethylene glycol stearyl ether contains twenty oxyethylene units

100.00 g

60 g of this mixture was applied to the left half of the head of ten test subjects with gray hair.

The right half of the head was treated with 60 g each of the oxidation hair dye according to the invention as in Example 3. During the exposure time of 20 minutes The darkening of the two agents was assessed by the hairdressers at room temperature.

The comparison experiment showed that the oxidation hair dye according to the invention darkens considerably less than the usual oxidation hair dye applied to the left half of the head. Since the agent darkens only slightly. The desired color result can be achieved safely. The means according to the invention can rule out the incorrect assessments of the color intensity already achieved in the case of customary oxidation hair colors as a result of rapid darkening, which lead to unintentionally weak colorations.

All percentages given in the present application represent percentages by weight.

Claims

Patent claims

1. Agent for oxidative dyeing of hair, obtained

by mixing a component (A), which is a liquid ink carrier with a viscosity below 100 mPa.s at 30 degrees Celsius, and a component (B), which is an emulsion-shaped, 2.5 to 12

Weight percent of at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ fatty alcohol of natural or synthetic origin and a composition containing an oxidizing agent is 1: 1.5 to 1: 4 in the weight ratio of component (A) to component (B).

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of component (A) to component (B) is 1: 2 to 1: 3.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that component (A) contains 2 to 30 weight percent saturated or unsaturated C ₁₀ - to C ₂₄ fatty acids or mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that component (A) 2 to 30

Weight percent C ₁ - to C ₄ alcohols, C ₂ - to C ₆ glycols or mixtures thereof contains.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that component (A) 0.1 to 25

Contains weight percent non-ionic emulsifiers.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the non-ionic emulsifier is an ethoxylated C ₁₀ - to C ₂₀ fatty alcohol, an ethoxylated alkylphenol with a C ₆ - to C ₁₄ -alkyl radical, or a mixture thereof.

7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the oxyethylated fatty alcohol and the oxyethylated alkylphenol are oxyethylated with 1 to 8 ethylene oxide units.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that component (A) contains 0.01 to 12.0 percent by weight of a developer substance-coupler substance combination.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that component (A) contains 0.01 to 7.0 percent by weight of substantive dyes and self-coupling dye precursors.

10. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that component (B) 1 to 18th

Contains percent by weight of an oxidizing agent.

11. A composition according to claim 10, characterized in that component (B) contains hydrogen peroxide in an amount of 1 to 18 weight percent.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the fatty alcohol contained in component (B) of natural or synthetic origin is a C ₁₄ - to C ₂₀ fatty alcohol.

13. A process for the oxidative dyeing of hair, characterized in that an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 12 is prepared by using component (A) and component (B) immediately before use in a ratio of 1: 1, 5 to 1: 4 mixed. then apply a sufficient amount of the agent to the hair, leave it there for 5 to 60 minutes at a temperature of 15 to 50 degrees Celsius, then rinse the hair with water and then dry it.