WO1997001346A1

WO1997001346A1 - Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing an extract of plants of genus filicium, and use of said extract for stimulating glycosaminoglycan synthesis

Info

Publication number: WO1997001346A1
Application number: PCT/FR1996/000998
Authority: WO
Inventors: Frédéric Bonte; Marc Dumas; Catherine Lavaud; Georges Massiot
Original assignee: Lvmh Recherche
Priority date: 1995-06-27
Filing date: 1996-06-27
Publication date: 1997-01-16
Also published as: EP0835121A1; FR2735982B1; FR2735982A1

Abstract

A cosmetic or pharmaceutical and particularly dermatological composition including, as the active ingredient, an extract of plants of genus Filicium, and particularly an extract of plants of species Filicium decipiens, preferably in an amount of 0.0001-3 wt % based on the total weight of the final composition. Said composition has the property of stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans in the skin, both in the dermis and in the epidermis, and may be used for skin and hair care, in particular given its moisturising activity. Said extracts may also be used for stimulating glycosaminoglycan synthesis in cell culture media, particularly keratinocyte and fibroblast culture media.

Description

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing an extract of plants of the genus Filicium and use of said extract to stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans

The invention essentially relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular a dermatological composition, comprising as active ingredient an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens. The invention also relates to a use of such an extract for the manufacture of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical and in particular dermatological composition having various activities and a method of cosmetic treatment. It also relates to a use of the same extract in cell culture media, in particular, fibroblast and keratinocyte culture media.

Plants of the genus Filicium belong to the Sapindaceae family. The plants of the species Filicium decipiens are alternate-leaf trees, up to 25 meters tall, which are found mainly in southern hemisphere Africa, in particular in South Africa and Tanzania, and also in tropical Asia, especially in India.

For a precise description, see the book "Trees of South Africa" by R.B. Drummond, C. Struik publishers, Cape town, South Africa, 1981, page 54.

A general bibliography of the sapindaceae family is given by C. Delaude in the Bulletin of the royal society of Liège, 1993, 62, 93-120.

An article by Umadevi 1. et al. in Advances in forestry research in India, 1988, 1, 217-220, describes the richness of the leaves of Filicium decipiens in tannins.

Furthermore, it will be noted that the literature makes no reference to any use of this plant and, in particular, to any use in the field of cosmetics or pharmacy. In the context of the present invention, it has been unexpectedly discovered that extracts of the plant of the genus Filicium, in particular extracts of plants of the species Filicium decipiens, are of valuable interest in cosmetics, in pharmacy, in particular in dermatology, by the property of stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans by fibroblasts and keratinocytes, and in particular fibroblasts of the dermis, in particular of the human dermis, and human keratinocytes.

However, those skilled in the art know that proteoglycans, partly made up of glycosaminoglycans, are complex macromolecules formed of a protein part onto which are grafted by covalent bonds polymers of disaccharides called glycosaminoglycans (GAG). This is in particular described in the work of ED HAY entitled "Cell Biology of Extracellular Matrix", published by Plénum Press, New York in 1991 and in the publication of JE SILBERT, having as title "Structure and Metabolism of Proteoglycans and Glycosaminoglycans ", published in J. Invest. Dermatol., 1982, 79, pages 31s-37s.

It is also known that the disaccharide unit of GAGs is formed of a hexosamine (D-glucosamine or D-galactosamine) which is quite often sulfated alternating with a uronic acid (D-glucuronic or L-iduroπic). The GAG chains most frequently encountered in the skin are hyaluronic acid, chondroitins-4 and -6 sulfate, dermatan sulfate and in small quantities heparin and heparan sulfate. Only hyaluronic acid is not synthesized in association with a central protein.

Proteoglycans are present in particular in all mammalian tissues, including in the skin and its appendices (JR COUCHMAN, J. Invest. Dermatol. 1993 Jul. 101 (1 Suppl) 60S-64S). It is now recognized that proteoglycans contribute, by various processes, to the growth, preservation and repair of tissues. Some proteoglycans have been shown to mediate cell adhesion and transmembrane communication, while others interact with other structural elements of the extracellular matrix. As mentioned above, proteoglycans consist of a central protein to which one or more glycosaminoglycan chains are covalently linked. Thus, glycosaminoglycans are present at the dermal level, participating in the composition of the extracellular matrix and have been found linked to certain sites of collagen fibers, as described by JE SCOTT in Int. J. Biol. Macromol., 1991, 13, pages 157-161. They have also been identified between the keratinocytes at the level of the epidermis as described by JG HAGGERTY et al. in the journal J. Invest. Dermatol., 1992, 99, pages 374-380, 99 pages 374-380. Finally, glycosaminoglycans have been found in the extracellular matrix of the dermal papilla of the hair follicle. Their quantity varies depending on the hair cycle. It reaches a maximum during the anagen phase corresponding to the growth of the hair. With regard to proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans of the hair follicles, reference may be made in particular to the publication by JR COUCHMAN cited above, and to that of M. TAYLOR et al., "Glycosaminoglycan synthesis by cultured human hair follicle dermal papilla cells: comparison with non-follicular dermal fibroblasts ", Brit. J. Dermatol. 1992 (May) 126 (5) 479-84. Note that minoxidil, a well-known substance with some activity on hair growth and regrowth, has been shown to stimulate the biosynthesis of glycosaminoglycans (Y. MORI et al., Ann. NY Acad. Sci., 1991 (Dec. 26) 642 473-5). The observations of the authors cited above, combined with other clinical evidence, suggest that glycosaminoglycans participate in the regulation of hair growth.

GAGs, by their primary property of associating strongly with water molecules and forming gels, ensure hydration of the dermis and epidermis. Well-hydrated skin guarantees good appearance, a satisfactory physiological and functional state, with in particular good mechanical properties. The decrease in GAGs during skin aging has been shown by many authors (such as, for example: SMITH et al. In J. Invest. Dermatol., 1962, 39, pages 347-350; or FLEISCHMAJER et al. In Biochim Biophys Acta, 1972, 279, pages 265-275; or by LONGAS et al. In Carbohydr. Res., 1987, 159, pages 127-136).

It is therefore interesting to stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans in order in particular to restore to a skin having a deficiency in terms of its mechanical properties or its water barrier, such as dehydrated or aged skin, the qualities and properties of a skin. normal and young, or to prevent or treat hair growth disorders, or to restore or strengthen the shine and suppleness of a hair.

Thus, the main object of the present invention is to solve the new technical problem consisting in providing a solution making it possible to stimulate the production of glycosaminoglycans by skin cells, in particular human skin cells, such as fibroblasts or keratinocytes, production which is particularly valuable in the context of the manufacture of cosmetic or pharmaceutical and especially dermatological treatment products.

The present invention also aims to solve the new technical problem consisting in the supply of a solution making it possible to achieve good hydration of the cutaneous tissue including the skin and the mucous membranes, an improvement in the mechanical qualities of the skin and the integuments, a beautification of the hair, as well as prevention or treatment of hair growth disorders, in a simple, reliable and inexpensive manner, usable on an industrial cosmetic and pharmaceutical scale. These new technical problems are solved for the first time simultaneously by the present invention.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, as active ingredient, an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens.

According to a second aspect, the invention provides a pharmaceutical composition, in particular a dermatological composition, for topical use, characterized in that it comprises, as active ingredient, an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens. According to an advantageous embodiment, corresponding to these two aspects, this composition comprises from 0.0001% to 3% by weight, and in particular from 0.001% to 1% by weight, of the abovementioned extract of Filicium relative to the total weight of the final composition.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition is formulated for a topical application, in particular a topical cutaneous application including the skin and the mucous membranes, for producing cosmetic or dermatological care products or treating makeup products, such as mascaras or lipsticks.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, this composition is characterized in that it further comprises at least one active principle, in particular chosen from the group consisting of retinoids, humectants or moisturizers, vitamins , ceramides, substances that promote collagen synthesis and amino acids. According to this particular embodiment, the composition is advantageously characterized in that the aforementioned retinoid is chosen from retinoic acid and its salts and esters, retinaldehyde, and retinol and its esters, such as propionate, palmitate, acetate; the above-mentioned humectant or moisturizing agent is chosen from glycerol, a polyethylene glycol and hyaluronic acid; the aforementioned vitamin is chosen from vitamin A, vitamin C and its derivatives, in particular its sodium or magnesium salts, vitamin E, vitamin PP, and the vitamins of group B in particular B6 and B12; the substance promoting the synthesis of collagen is chosen from an extract of centella asiatica, madecassoside, madecassic acid, asian acid and asiaticoside; and the amino acid is chosen from serine, threonine, leucine, proline and hydroxyproline.

According to another advantageous variant of the invention, more particularly situated in the context of hair care or treatments, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological composition according to the invention, also comprises at least one other active substance, in one effective concentration, chosen from quinine or its derivatives; a rubefiant such as methyl nicotinate; a culture supernatant of papilla fibroblasts, as described in document EP-A-272920; a keratin hydrolyzate; a trace element such as zinc, selenium, copper; a bisbenzylisoquinole alkaloid such as oxyacanthine or cepharanthin; a 5-α-reductase inhibitor such as progesterone; cyproterone acetate, minoxidil, azelaic acid and its derivatives; a 4-methyl-4-azasteroid, in particular 17-β-N, N-diethylcarbamoyl-4-methyl-4-aza-5-α-androstan-3-onε; or an extract from Serenoa repens. According to yet another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the above-mentioned extract of Filicium, in particular of Filicium decipiens, is an extract of bark from the root, trunk or stem.

According to yet another advantageous embodiment, the above-mentioned extract of Filicium is an extract obtained by extraction with a polar solvent or a mixture of polar solvents. Preferably, an alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol, or a mixture of these alcohols or a hydroalcoholic mixture, will be used. In this context, conventional extraction procedures well known to those skilled in the art can be used. In particular, the extraction can be carried out on the ground material, preferably a root bark powder obtained by grinding, which is introduced into the extraction solvent, preferably consisting of the solvent or the mixture of solvents. polar above. The extraction can be repeated several times until the material is exhausted, according to methods well known to those skilled in the art. The extraction can be carried out at ambient temperature, or hot and in particular at reflux of the solvent. The proportion by weight between the solvent and the material to be extracted can vary within wide limits and for example be between 1: 1 and 10: 1.

According to yet another advantageous embodiment, the above-mentioned extract of Filicium is an extract enriched in sapoπines.

The enrichment of the extract with saponins can be obtained by any process known to those skilled in the art, in particular by precipitation of the extract by means of acetone in an alcoholic medium, preferably in a methanolic medium. .

We will choose, in a particularly advantageous way, an extract containing at least one of the four saponins corresponding to the formulas developed (I, II, III, IV) below:

(I): 3-O- {β-D-glucopyranosyl acid (l → 2) -β-D-glucopyranosyl} 28-O - {[α- L-arabinopyranosyl (l- * 2) -β-D-xylopyranosyl (l → 6)] [(4-O-angeloyl) -α-L- arabinopyranosyl (l → 2) -α-L-rhamnopyranosyl (l- * 2)]} - β-D-glucopyranosyl gypsogenic.

(II): 3-O- {β-D-glucopyranosyl (l- * 2) -β-D-glucopyranosyl} 28-0 - {[β- D-xylopyranosyl (l → 4) (α-L-arabinopyranosyl (l → 2)) - α-L-rhamnoρyranosyl- (l- * 2)] [4-O-bis (3'-hydroxy-2'-methyl-butyroyl)]} - β-D-fucopyranosyl medicagenic.

(III): 3-O- {β-D-glucopyranosyl (l- * 2) -β-D-glucopyranosyl} 28-O - {[α- L-arabinopyranosyl (l- * 2) -β-D- xylopyranosyl (l- * 6)] [(4-O-angeloyl) -α-L- arabinopyranosyl (l → 2) -α-L-rhamnopyranosyl (l- * 2)]} - β-D-glucopyranosyl medicated. (IV): 3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl acid 28-O - {[β-D-xylopyranosyl (l → 4) (α-L- arabinopyranosyl (l- * 2)) - α-L-rharmιopyranos- yl (l- * 2)] [(4-O-bis (3'-hydroxy-

2'-methyl-butyroyl)]} - β-D-fucopyranosyl zanhique.

These four saponins, which constitute new products isolated for the first time, were able to be isolated by column chromatography and identified by NMR and mass spectroscopy in the extract obtained according to the method described in Example 1 of the present specification.

According to another aspect, the invention also relates to the use of an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens, said extract preferably being incorporated in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient, for the preparation of '' a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition and in particular a dermatological composition, in particular having an activity of stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans in the skin and the mucous membranes, in particular in the dermis and in the epidermis, promoting water retention in the skin, presenting a hydrating activity, a tightening effect attenuating the cutaneous relief and the superficial fine lines, contributing to reinforce the barrier function of the skin, intended in particular for the prevention or the treatment of the dry or dehydrated skins, with the treatment of the effects of cutaneous aging, preventing and fighting the appearance of stretch marks, improving appearance of the skin and hair, prevention and treatment of hair growth disorders.

In applications in the pharmaceutical or dermatological field, for topical use, the compositions of the invention are intended for the prevention or treatment of dry or dehydrated skin and / or for the prevention and the fight against the appearance of stretch marks and / or the prevention and treatment of hair disorders.

Various embodiments in the context of this use result clearly from the previous description which has been made relative to the composition, as well as from the following description and in particular in relation to the examples.

According to another aspect, the present invention also covers a cosmetic treatment process for the skin, mucous membranes, such as the lips, or integuments, in particular the hair, characterized in that it comprises topical application to the areas of the skin, mucous membranes or scalp to be treated, composition containing an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens, present in said composition at a cosmetically effective concentration.

Various embodiments of this process also result clearly from the preceding description, as well as from the following description, in particular in relation to the examples. In particular, the concentration of the abovementioned plant extract in the composition is between 0.0001% and 3% by weight, in particular between 0.001% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, said extract being preferably incorporated in a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

Finally, according to another aspect, the present invention also covers a method of therapeutic treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, or integuments, in particular the hair, characterized in that it comprises topical application to the areas of the skin. , mucous membranes or scalp to be treated with a therapeutically effective amount of an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens.

Various embodiments of this method of therapeutic treatment appear clearly to a person skilled in the art, also from the preceding description as well as from the following description and in particular with reference to the examples. In the context of therapeutic treatment, the practitioner generally knows how to adapt the dose to be applied according to the condition to be treated. However, in general, 0.0001% and 3% by weight will be applied, in particular between 0.001% and 1% by weight, of the abovementioned Filicium extract included in a pharmaceutically acceptable excipient thus forming a pharmaceutical composition, said percentage by weight. of said extract being given relative to the total weight of the final composition.

As indicated above, the invention is based on the unexpected discovery that an extract of plants of the genus Filicium stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans by skin cells, in particular by fibroblasts and keratinocytes, thus being particularly useful for the manufacture of cosmetic or pharmaceutical and especially dermatological treatment products.

Thus, the invention also relates to the use of an extract of plants of the genus Filicium in particular of the species Filicium decipiens as cosmetic agent. This agent makes it possible in particular to stimulate the production of glycosaminoglycans by fibroblasts and keratinocytes, in particular fibroblasts of the dermis, in particular of the human dermis and human keratinocytes. It can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition which promotes water retention in the skin and / or has a hydrating activity and / or a tightening effect attenuating the skin relief and surface fine lines, helping to reinforce the barrier function of the skin. and / or treats the effects of skin aging and / or improves the appearance of the skin and / or the hair and / or promotes hair growth. This composition can also be intended for the prevention or treatment of dry or dehydrated skin and / or for the prevention and the fight against the appearance of stretch marks.

This same agent can also be used as a therapeutic agent, especially in dermatology. In these two types of applications, those skilled in the art readily understand that various forms of formulation can be produced. In addition, it is apparent that one of the most used forms is a topical form suitable for application to the skin tissue including the skin and the external or internal mucous membranes. Appropriate topical formulations include without limitation, emulsions, creams, milks, balms, gels, lotions, ova, as well as treating makeup compositions such as mascaras, lipsticks, these various types of formulation being well known to those skilled in the art.

Finally, according to a last aspect, the present invention also relates to a method for treating cells, in particular fibroblasts or keratinocytes, in culture, by an effective concentration of a plant extract of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens to stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans.

Thus, in the context for example of the preparation of artificial skin, in particular of artificial dermis, by cell culture, according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art, a skin is obtained by the process of the invention. or a very good quality artificial dermis, particularly with regard to the biomechanical properties.

According to a preferred variant of implementation of the aforementioned method, the cell culture is treated with a plant extract of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens, at a concentration between 0.3 μg / ml and 30 μg / ml of culture medium.

According to another advantageous variant, the culture medium also comprises one or more of the following substances: glucosamine, galactosamine, L-proline and 4-hydroxy-L-proline, said substances possibly being each present at a concentration between 2 and 10 mM, or alternatively, the culture medium can contain ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives at a non-cytotoxic concentration, in particular between 0.001 mM and 0.5 mM. Other objects, characteristics and advantages of the invention appear clearly to those skilled in the art, also from the explanatory description which follows, made with reference to several exemplary embodiments given simply by way of illustration, and which therefore cannot in any way limit the scope of the invention. In the examples, the percentages are given by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1:

Preparation of an extract of Filicium decipiens root bark (extract II).

Plant root bark has been harvested in South Africa. 54 g of this root bark, previously dried and powdered for 1 hour 30 minutes, are macerated in 500 ml of methanol. It is brought to the boil for 3 hours then after cooling it is filtered. The filtrate (8.3 g) is dried, taken up in 100 ml of methanol and then 500 ml of acetone are added to the methanolic solution. A precipitate is formed which is separated by filtration. The precipitate is dried over a dehydrating solid such as potash (0.847 g). This precipitate is then purified by dialysis for 4 days against 5 ml of water, then lyophilized. 242 mg of a lyophilized extract according to the invention, called extract II, enriched in saponins, are thus obtained which will then be used in the tests described below.

Example 2:

Preparation of an extract of the root bark of Filicium decipiens (I2Y extract

We start with 100 g of bark powder from the roots of the plant which we put in 1.5 liters of methanol. The mixture is brought to reflux for 1 h. The vegetable drug is depleted 3 times in succession with new solvent. We combines the three filtrates, concentrated on a rotary evaporator until a dry extract 12 according to the invention is obtained.

Example 3:

Demonstration of the activity of stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans by human fibroblasts, with extract II of Example 1.

The test used to demonstrate an activity stimulating the production of GAG by fibroblasts is described below. This in vitro test is, moreover, recognized as reliable and significant for those skilled in the art.

Principle of the test:

Human dermis fibroblasts are used and incubated with tritiated glucosamine with or without the product to be tested. Then, on the culture supernatants, the protein part of the proteoglycans formed to isolate the GAGs (having incorporated the radiolabelled glucosamine) which is precipitated by cetylpyridinium chloride is separated by enzymatic hydrolysis, by means of pronase. abbreviated as CPC. The radioactivity of the precipitates of the treated cultures and of the control cultures is then counted, which is proportional to the amount of GAG synthesized.

Highlighting the activity:

Fibroblasts from a breast plasty of a 35-year-old woman are prepared from the microdissected dermis, as previously described by RI FRESHNEY in the book "Culture of Animal Cells; a manual of basic technique" edited by AR LISS, New York, 1983, pages 104-106. Inoculating culture wells of a multiwell box at a rate of 10 000 per well and fibroblasts were cultured for 24 h at 37 ^° C in a culture medium C 199 E (Gibco) containing 10% fetal calf serum .

After 24 hours, the medium is removed and replaced with 100 microliters of E 199 C medium without serum and containing the product to be tested, namely, in this case, extract II according to the invention, dissolved in water, or the same amount of water in the case of "control" cultures, and 4 μCi of tritiated glucosamine, commercially available under the reference TRK 398 from Amersham, France. Incubated 48 h at 37 ^° C. The supernatants are then grouped by two and transferred to Eppendorf screw tubes. Each tube therefore contains supernatant from the culture of an initial amount of 20,000 cells. To each of the tubes is added 200 μl of a 0.2 mg / ml solution of pronase, commercially available from Sigma, France, under the reference P5147, in solution in PBS containing 0.02% of azide. sodium. Is allowed to act overnight at 37 ^° C. The pronase is then inactivated by immersing the tubes in boiling water for 5 minutes.

After cooling to room temperature, 40 μl of an aqueous solution of a 1/1/1 mixture of hyaluronic acid, dermatan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate at 8 mg / ml are added to this solution of radiolabelled GAG. co-precipitates all of these glycosaminoglycans with 40 μl of a 100 mg / ml solution of CPC commercially available from Sigma, France, under the reference C 9002. After shaking, incubation is carried out for 30 minutes at room temperature. The precipitate is centrifuged, the supernatant is aspirated and the pellet is resuspended with 400 μl of a 10 mg / ml CPC solution. The mixture is stirred for 5 minutes. The pellet is dissolved in 500 μl of methanol, which is then transferred to scintillation vials containing 10 ml of scintillating liquid. The radioactivity of each flask is counted using a scintillation counter of the "Beta 1" type from the company Kontron, France.

At the same time, the cytotoxicity of the product to be tested on the cells is evaluated by a tetrazolium salt test, abbreviated as XTT, as described by ROEHM N. W. et al. in the journal Journal of Immunological Methods, 1991, 142, pages 257-265. This test measures cell viability.

As mentioned above, the amount of GAG secreted by the cells in culture is proportional to the radioactivity observed. The activity results of extract II according to the invention are presented in the table below. The concentrations of the extract have been chosen so that they do not modify the cell viability.

The activity of the extract, expressed as a percentage, is calculated according to the following formula:

q-qo

A = x 100 qo

in which : A: represents the activity expressed as a percentage, qθ: represents the amount of radioactive GAG secreted in the control cultures, expressed in cpm, q: represents the amount of radioactive GAG secreted in the cultures treated with the extract according to the invention, expressed in cpm.

Finally, the radioactivity values obtained with the treated cultures are compared with those of the controls by the Student's "t" test in unpaired series, in order to conclude on the question of knowing whether the increases in radioactivity observed, therefore the increases in GAG synthesis, are significant at the threshold p = 0.05.

Results table

S: significant

The table above clearly demonstrates that the extract II, object of the invention, significantly stimulates the production of total GAGs by human dermal fibroblasts.

Therefore, the extracts of the invention, obtained from the plant of the genus Filicium, constitute valuable active ingredients for the manufacture of cosmetic or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, treatment products.

In this context, various formulations of cosmetic, pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological products will now be given by way of illustration, without limitation. Example 4: Hydrating gel:

- Bark extract II, example 1 0.5 g

- Ethanol 5 g - Glycerol 4 g

- Carbopol 940 ® 1.3 g

- Water + preservatives qs 100 g

Dissolve extract II in ethanol and then add glycerol and part of the water, the remaining part being used to form a gel with Carbopol 940®. Then, the solution and the gel are mixed, in accordance with gel formulation techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

This gel can be used twice a day for 3 weeks on the face and on the body. After treatment, the skin regains normal hydration, its elasticity and its radiance.

Example 5:

Bust care cream:

This cream has the following composition: - Bark extract 12 0.1 g

- Retinol palmitate 0.03 g

- Centella asiatica extract 0.1 g

- Ascorbyl phosphate (magnesium salt) 0.05 g

- Glycerol 3 g - Nylon particles 2 g

(Orgasol 2002 UD Nat cos available at Atochem, France)

- Emulsified excipient + preservatives and perfumes qs 100 g

The extracts of bark 12 and of centella asiatica are dissolved in the excipient, then the other components are added until the whole is homogeneous.

This cream can be used twice a day for several weeks, by topical application on the bust. After treatment, the bust regains its elasticity, firmness and radiance. Example 6:

Care cream intended to prevent and fight against the appearance of wrinkles:

A composition is used having the following ingredients:

- Extract II 1 g - Witch hazel extract 2 g

- Glycerin 4 g

- Wheat glycoceramides 0.2 g

- Pea protein 2 g

- Malic acid 0.1 g - Emulsified excipient qs 100 g

The extracts II and witch hazel are dissolved in the emulsified excipient, then the other ingredients are added until the whole is homogeneous.

A cream is thus obtained which can be used locally, by topical application by massaging until complete penetration. This treatment, which can be extended for several weeks, makes it possible to effectively prevent and combat the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Example 7:

Anti-drying mascara: A composition comprising the following active ingredients is used:

- Extract II 0.15 g

- Hyaluronic acid 0.1 g

- Carnauba wax 1 g

- Lanolin 4 g - Isopropyl palmitate 2 g

- Beeswax 8 g

- Ozokerite 6 g

- 4% solution of magnesium silicate 12.5 g

- Cellulose gum 0.7 g - Black iron oxide 10 g

- Morpholine 1.6 g

- Methacrylolethylbetaine / methacrylate copolymer (Amersette®, Amerchol Co., USA) 12 g

- Water + preservatives qs 100 g This mascara is prepared according to conventional techniques of those skilled in the art, the extract II is introduced into the aqueous phase until complete dissolution.

This mascara represents good adhesion to the eyelash. On the other hand, it will be observed that hyaluronic acid strengthens the hydrating activity of the extract II of the invention, which makes it possible to maintain the keratin fibers of the eyelashes well hydrated.

Example 8:

Treating lip balm: A composition is prepared comprising the following active ingredients:

- Extract II, example 1 0.1 g

- Steraramide 20 g

- Methylglucose dioleate 14 g - Methylglucose sesquistearate 6 g

- Polyoxyethylene methylglucose (Glucam E10 ®,

Amerchol Co., USA) 15 g

- Mineral oil 4 g

- Pigment 12 g - PEG 10 methylglucose sesquistearate 2.5 g

- Water + preservatives qs 100 g

This balm is prepared in a conventional manner according to the rules of the art, extract II is included in the aqueous phase. This balm applied to the lips allows good hydration of the lips.

Example 9:

"Anti-hair loss" hair lotion A lotion is prepared comprising the following active ingredients:

- Extract 12, example 2 0.1 g

- Ceraphyl 60® 0.08 g

- Cremophor RH40® 0.4 g

- Ethyl alcohol 32 g - Scented aqueous excipient qs 100 g

This lotion is used in massages of the scalp, preferably in the morning. By acting on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans at the level of the papilla of the hair follicle, this lotion contributes to delay hair loss.

Example 10:

Anti-hair loss lotion

A lotion is prepared having the same composition as that described in Example 9, except that it also contains 0.1 g of cepharanthin per 100 g of final composition.

Example 11: Treating Shampoo A shampoo composition is prepared comprising the following ingredients:

- Extract II, example 1 0.1 g

- Coconut diethanolamine 2 g

- Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 0.5 g - Alkylglucoside 15 g

- Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.5 g

- Excipient qs 100 g

The invention includes all the means constituting technical equivalents of the means described as well as their various combinations. In particular, the invention covers any characteristic which appears to be new with respect to any state of the art, from the description and the claims taken as a whole.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, as active ingredient, an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens.

2. Pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological, for topical use, characterized in that it comprises, as active ingredient, an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized because it comprises from 0.0001% to 3% by weight, and in particular from 0.001% to

1% by weight of the above-mentioned Filicium extract relative to the total weight of the final composition.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said composition is formulated for topical application, in particular topical skin application including the skin and mucous membranes.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one other active principle in particular chosen from the group consisting of retinoids, humectants or moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, substances promoting the synthesis of collagen and amino acids.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the aforementioned retinoid is chosen from retinoic acid and its salts and esters, retinaldehyde, and retinol and its esters, such as propionate, palmitate, acetate; the above-mentioned humectant or moisturizing agent is chosen from glycerol, polyethylene glycol and hyaluronic acid; the aforementioned vitamin is chosen from vitamin A, vitamin C and its derivatives, in particular its sodium or magnesium salts, vitamin E, vitamin PP and vitamins of group B in particular B6 and B12; the substance promoting the synthesis of collagen is chosen from an extract of centella asiatica, madecassoside, madecassic acid, asian acid and asiaticoside, and the amino acid is chosen from serine, threonine, leucine, proline and hydroxyproline.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, in particular intended for the care or treatment of the hair, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one other active substance, in an effective concentration, chosen from quinine or its derivatives; a rubefiant such as methyl nicotinate; a culture supernatant of papilla fibroblasts; a keratin hydrolyzate; a trace element such as zinc, selenium, copper; a bisbenzylisoquinoleic alkaloid such as oxyacanthine or cepharanthin; a 5-α-reductase inhibitor such as progesterone; cyproterone acetate, minoxidil, azelaic acid and its derivatives; a 4-methyl-4-azasteroid, in particular 17-β -N, N-diethylcarbamoyl-4-methyl-4-aza-5-α-androstan-3-one; or an extract from Serenoa repens.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aforementioned extract of Filicium, in particular of Filicium decipiens, is an extract of bark from roots, trunk or stem.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the above-mentioned extract of Filicium is an extract obtained by extraction with a polar solvent, preferably an alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol or a mixture of these alcohols or a hydro-alcoholic mixture.

10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the aforementioned extract of Filicium is an extract enriched in saponins.

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that said extract contains at least one of the four saponins corresponding to the formulas developed (I, II, III, IV) below:

(I): 3-O- {β-D-glucopyranosyl acid (l → 2) -β-D-glucopyranosyl} 28-O - {[α- L-arabinopyranosyl (l → 2) -β-D-xylopyranosyl ( l- * 6)] [(4-O-angeloyl) -α-L- arabinopyranosyl (l- * 2) -α-L-rhamnopyranosyl (l- * 2)]} - β-D-glucopyranosyl gypsogenic,

(II): 3-O- {β-D-glucoρyranosyl (l → 2) -β-D-glucopyranosyl} 28-0 - {[β- D-xyiopyranosyl (l → 4) (α-L-arabinopyranosyl ( l- * 2)) - α-L-rhamnopyranosyl- (l → 2)] [4-O-bis (3'-hydroxy-2'-methyl-butyroyl)]} - β-D-fucopyranosyl medicagenic, (III ): 3-O- {β-D-glucopyranosyl acid (l → 2) -β-D-glucopyranosyl} 28-0 - {[α- L-arabinopyranosyl (l- ^» 2) -β-D-xylopyranosyl (l → 6)] [(4-0-angeloyl) -α-L- arabinopyranosyl (l → 2) -α-L-rhamnopyranosyl (l → 2)]} - β-D-glucopyranosyl medicagenic, (IV): 3-O-β-D-glucoρyranosyl 28-O - {[β-D-xylopyranosyl (l- + 4) (α-L- arabinopyranosyl (l → 2)) - α-L-rhamnopyranosyl ( l- * 2)] [(4-O-bis (3'-hydroxy-

2'-methyl-butyroyl)]} - β-D-fucopyranosyl zanhique.

12. Use of an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens, said extract being preferably incorporated in a pharmaceutically or dermatologically acceptable excipient, for the preparation of a pharmaceutical or dermatological composition for use topical having an activity of stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans in the skin and the mucous membranes, in particular in the dermis and in the epidermis.

13. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that said composition is intended for the prevention or treatment of dry or dehydrated skin and / or the prevention and the fight against the appearance of stretch marks and / or the prevention and to the treatment of hair growth disorders.

14. Use of an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens as cosmetic agent, said agent being incorporated in a cosmetic composition.

15. Use according to claim 14, characterized in that said composition promotes water retention in the skin and / or has a hydrating activity and / or a tightening effect attenuating the skin relief and surface fine lines, helping to strengthen the function skin barrier and / or treats the effects of skin aging and / or improves the appearance of the skin and / or the hair and / or promotes hair growth.

16. Use according to claim 14, characterized in that said composition is intended for the prevention or treatment of dry or dehydrated skin and / or the prevention and the fight against the appearance of stretch marks.

17. Use according to one of claims 12 to 16, characterized in that the composition is as defined in one of claims 1 to 11.

18. Method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, such as the lips, or integuments, in particular the hair, characterized in that it comprises topical application to the areas of the skin, mucous membranes or scalp to be treated, a composition containing an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular of the species Filicium decipiens, present in said composition at a cosmetically effective concentration.

19. The method of claim 18, characterized in that the concentration of the plant extract of the genus Filicium in the above composition is between 0.0001% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably between 0.001% to 1%, said extract preferably being incorporated in a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

20. A method of treating cells, in particular fibroblasts or keratinocytes, in culture, to obtain stimulation of the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, characterized in that it consists in introducing into the culture medium an effective concentration of an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular an extract of plants of the species of Filicium decipiens, to obtain the stimulation of said synthesis.

21. The method of claim 20, characterized in that said cells are treated with an extract of plants of the genus Filicium, in particular an extract of plants of the species Filicium decipiens, at a concentration of between 0.3 μg / ml and 30 μg / ml of culture medium.

22. Method according to claim 20 or 21, characterized in that at least one substance chosen from the group consisting of glucosamine, galactosamine, L-proline and 4-hydroxy-L- is added to the culture medium. proline at a concentration between 2 and 10 mM as well as ascorbic acid or its derivatives at a non-cytotoxic concentration, in particular at a concentration between 0.001 mM and 0.5 mM.

23. Use of the method according to one of claims 20 to 22 for the preparation of an artificial skin or dermis.

24. Saponins corresponding to one of the following formulas: (I): 3-O- {β-D-glucopyranosyl acid (l → 2) -β-D-glucopyranosyl} 28-O - {[α- L-arabinopyranosyl (l- * 2) -β-D-xylopyranosyl (l- * 6)] [(4-O-angeloyι) -α-L- arabinopyranosyl (l → 2) -α-L-rhamnopyranosyl (l → 2)] } - gypsogenic β-D-glucopyranosyl,

(II): 3-O- {β-D-glucopyranosyl acid (l → 2) -β-D-glucopyranosyl} 28-O - {[β- D-xylopyranosyl (l → 4) (α-L-arabinopyranosyl ( l → 2)) - α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-

(l → 2)] [4-O-bis (3'-hydroxy-2'-methyl-butyroyl)]} - β-D-fucopyranosyl medicagenic,

(III): 3-O- {β-D-glucopyranosyl (l- * 2) -β-D-glucopyranosyI} 28-0 - {[α- L-arabinopyranosyl (l → 2) -β-D-xylopyranosyl (l → 6)] [(4-O-angeloyl) -α-L- arabinopyranosyl (l- ^> 2) -α-L-rhamnopyranosyl (l → 2)]} - medicinal beta-D-glucopyranosyl,

(IV): 3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl 28-O - {[β-D-xylopyranosyl (l → 4) (α-L- arabinopyranosyl (l → 2)) - α-L-rhamnopyranosyl (l - * 2)] [(4-O-bis (3'-hydroxy-

2'-methyl-butyroyl)]} - β-D-fucopyranosyl zanhique.