WO1999009941A1

WO1999009941A1 - Hair coloring systems

Info

Publication number: WO1999009941A1
Application number: PCT/US1997/015129
Authority: WO
Inventors: Heinz-Jurgen Bieler
Original assignee: Schwarzkopf, Inc.
Priority date: 1997-08-27
Filing date: 1997-08-27
Publication date: 1999-03-04
Also published as: AU4166097A

Abstract

In coloring hair, samples of natural hair colors are generated and are assembled on a principal chart (12). Samples of desirable hair colors are generated as target color samples in the coloring of hair, and are assembled on secondary charts (34, 37). Coloring agents and developers necessary for realizing the target colors are provided. A compendium (36) of chapters representing natural hair colors divided into sections (65, 66) representing target colors, is comprised, and each chapter is indexed in terms of corresponding natural hair color, and each section is indexed in terms of a corresponding target color. All coloring agents and all developers are listed in each section (65, 66, Tables V-VIII) in terms of quantity, concentration and development time on hair as necessary for realizing in a coloring process the target color indexed in that section.

Description

HAIR COLORING SYSTEMS

Technical Field

The technical field of the invention relates to cosmetology and includes hair coloring systems.

Background

The coloring of hair has become a worldwide industry attempting to satisfy not only the need of graying people to preserve a youthful appearance to their surroundings, as well as to themselves, but also the need of an ever growing number of younger people who feel that mother nature has somehow missed the shade that would best express their desired personality, and of vigorous females intent on venturing into the world with a new look. As a result, hair coloring products have multiplied in brands, and have virtually exploded in terms of numbers of different shades particularly within leading brands. The hair color for each shade comes with its own instructions, producing an ever increasing plethora of widely different background materials which the cosmetologist has to read and digest in an effort to treat the clientele most effectively and safely. In consequence, unless this flood of instructions is effectively stemmed, cosmetology may one day rival cosmology in terms of complexity and inevitable unpredictability. Where astronomers have their cosmological red shift, cosmetologists often produce an undesirable red shift and other discolorations in their clients' hair out of sheer inability to handle instructions that come on different pieces of paper for different shades, and particularly to handle the textual part of such instructions correctly and consistently despite its variations among different shades. In practice, this and other drawbacks of the conventional hair coloring systems approach have been leading to a communication problem of sorts between manufacturer and cosmetologist, which is making it increasingly difficult for manufacturers, in a broad sense of that term, to go into refinements and nuances of techniques within given coloring processes that would more satisfactorily deal with special needs of a growing number of individuals that may not fit a general mold. As in so many fields of human endeavor, the hair coloring branch of cosmetology suffers from a quantification and proliferation that impedes quality and stagnates true progress.

Summary of the Invention

It is a general object of the invention to overcome the above mentioned disadvantages and to meet the needs herein set forth. It is a germane object of the invention to provide new hair coloring methods and systems. The invention resides in a method of coloring hair with mixtures of coloring agents and developers, and, more specifically, resides in the improvement comprising, in combination, generating samples of natural hair colors, assembling the samples of natural hair colors as natural hair color samples on a principal chart, generating samples of desirable hair colors as target color samples in the coloring of hair, assembling the target color samples on secondary charts, providing coloring agents and developers necessary for realizing the target colors within corresponding development time ranges in the coloring of hair, comprising a compendium of chapters representing natural hair colors divided into sections representing target colors, indexing each chapter in terms of corresponding natural hair color, and indexing each section in terms of a corresponding target color, listing in each section all coloring agents and all developers in terms of quantity, concentration and development time on hair as necessary for realizing in a coloring process the target color indexed in that section. The invention resides also in a system of coloring hair with mixtures of coloring agents and developers, comprising a compendium of chapters individually indexed in terms cf natural hair colors and divided into sections individually r.ndexed in terms of desirable hair colors as target colors in the coloring of hair, and listing in each section all coloring agents and all developers in terms of quantity, concentration and development time on hair as necessary for realizing in a coloring process the target color indexed in that section.

Brief Description of the Drawings

The subject invention and its various aspects and objects will become more readily apparent from the following detailed description of preferred embodiments thereof, illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawings which also constitute a written description of the invention, wherein like reference numerals designate like or equivalent parts, and in which: Fig. 1 is a plan view of a principal chart for the practice of an embodiment of the invention; Figs . 2 and 3 are plan views of secondary charts for the practice of an embodiment of the invention; Fig. 4 is a plan view of a part of a section of a chapter of a compendium according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, with an example of the numerical and textual content of the blocks and symbols shown in Fig. 4 being set forth below in Table V; Fig. 5 is a plan view of another part of another section of another chapter of the compendium according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, with an example of the numerical and textual content of the blocks and symbols shown in Fig. 4 being set forth below in Table VI; and Fig. 6 is a plan view of a graphic instruction for the practice of aspects of the subject invention. Modes of Carrying Out The Invention

The drawings illustrate embodiments of the invention for coloring hair 10 with mixtures of coloring agents and developers. Fig. 1 relates to the production or other generation of samples of natural hair colors, such as in different first swatches 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 of human or artificial hair. Such natural hair colors may, for instance, be classified as follows, with the suffix "-0" after each numeral 1, 3, 4, ... 10 indicating "natural color" :

Table I People's natural hair colors Reference numerals in terms of Natural Level No . in Fig. 1 and Fig. 4 and Fig.5 1-0 = Black 11 21 3-0 = Dark Brown 1 133 2 233 61 4-0 = Medium Brown 14 24 5-0 = Light Brown 15 25 6-0 = Dark Blonde 1 166 2 266 63 7-0 = Medium Blonde 17 27 8-0 = Light Blonde 18 28 9-0 = Extra Light Blonde 19 29 10-0 = Ultralight Blonde 20 30

These level numbers or equivalents thereof may be viewed as natural hair color indicia characteristic of the different natural hair colors considered. There also could be a level 2, but such an intermediate level may in practice not be needed, because of the close similarity of extra dark brown to black from the perspective of feasible target colors. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, such a characteristic natural hair color indicium is assigned to and listed for each natural hair color sample in the principal chart 12 having that natural hair color sample, and the natural hair color in each chapter is indexed in the compendium 36 of the subject invention in terms of the natural hair color indicium characteristic of that natural hair color. The samples of natural hair colors are assembled as natural hair color samples 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 (meaning samples of natural hair color numbers 1-0, 3-0, 4-0, 5-0, 6-0, 7-0, 8-0, 9-0 and 10-0) on the principal chart 12, with the proposition "on" being used broadly in this context. These natural hair colors may be identified and listed on the principal chart 12 in blocks 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29 and 30, using, for example, the corresponding names listed at numbers 1-0, 3-0, 4-0, 5-0, 6-0, 7-0, 8-0, 9-0 and 10-0 in Table I which correlates the listed natural hair colors to the reference numerals and symbols in blocks of that description in Fig. 1 according to one example in the practice of the invention. A heading, such as "NATURAL SERIES -0", may be provided on the principal chart 12, in a block 31 or otherwise. Figs. 2 and 3 relate to the production or other generation of samples of desirable hair colors as target colors for the coloring procedure. Some such target colors are listed below in Table III. There now are dozens of available color shadings. The leading brand has some one hundred different shades of coloring agents, and the number of feasible hair coloring shadings will move into the three-digit range, as the compendium herein disclosed permits more and more cosmetologists to handle such hair color varieties correctly, professionally and consistently. The subject invention may be practiced with conventional hair color products, and the practice of the subject invention is not limited to any particular nomenclature or to any particular brand of hair coloring products, although oxidation type of hair color products are preferred in the practice of the subject invention. A preferred embodiment of the invention is attuned to a nomenclature wherein a first numeral designates the desired color level which may be in similarity to first digits of the levels contained above in Table I. A second numeral may designate the base, such as from natural to violet in the following scale: Table II

= natural

= ash

= smokey

= matt

= beige

5 = gold

6 = red-brown

= copper

8 = red

9 — violet

There also may be a third numeral designating highlight, such as in auburn, copper gold, chestnut, mahogany, and the like, for various natural and target color combinations . In the interest of paper and space conservation, the following Table lists only some representative samples of target colors, but nonetheless reveals the principle.

Table III

Desired hair color in terms of Reference numerals Target Color No. in Figs. 2, 3, and 5 3-69 = Dark Auburn Brown 41, 51 3-78 = Dark Copper Gold Brown 47, 57

4-4 = Medium Beige Brown 4-68 = Medium Auburn Brown 42, 52 62 4-75 = Medium Copper Gold Brown 48, 58

5-7 = Light Copper Brown 5-68 = Light Auburn Brown 43, 53 5-88 = Light Mahogany Brown

6-3 = Dark Matt Blonde 6-7 = Dark Copper Blonde 6-68 = Dark Auburn Blonde 44, 54 Table III continued: Reference numerals Target Color No . in Figs . 2 , 3 , and 5

6-87 = Dark Chestnut Blonde 6-88 = Dark Mahogany Blonde

7-4 = Medium Beige Blonde 7-5 = Medium Golden Blonde 7-7 = Medium Copper Blonde 7-67 = Medium Auburn Blonde 45, 55 64 7-87 = Medium Chestnut Blonde 7-88 = Medium Mahogany Blonde

8-2 = Light Smokey Blonde 8-4 = Light Beige Blonde 8-5 = Light Golden Blonde 8-7 = Light Copper Blonde 8-67 = Light Auburn Blonde 46, 56 8-87 = Light Chestnut Blonde

9-4 = Extra Light Beige Blonde 9-5 = Extra Light Golden Blonde 9-7 = Extra Light Copper Blonde 9-87 = Extra Light Chestnut Blonde

10-0 = Ultralight Blonde 10-4 = Ultralight Beige Blonde 10-5 = Ultralight Golden Blonde

Even this short list shows that the nomenclature under consideration is more precise than mere descriptive words, that necessarily depend on the personal color perception of each individual cosmetologist. Such or other target color indicia are listed in the secondary charts. In particular, a characteristic target color indicium is assigned to and listed for each target color sample in the secondary chart having that target color sample, and the target color in each section is indexed in terms of the target color indicium characteristic of that target color. In this respect, a secondary chart heading, such as "AUBURN SERIES" , may for instance be listed in a block 33 of the secondary chart 34 on which shadings of that series are listed and to which swatches 41 to 46 of target color samples are attached. Corresponding characteristic indicia, such a.s "-67, - 68, -69" may be listed within a block 35. Similar information, such as "COPPER GOLD SERIES" and "-75, -78" may be listed on another other secondary chart 37, such as in two blocks 38 and 39 shown in Fig. 3. By way of example, corresponding listings of the color shadings of swatches 41 to 48 and legends in blocks 51 to 58 for the secondary charts 34 and 37 are correlated in Table III with reference numerals of Figs . 2 and 3. All charts and sheets shown in Figs. 1 to 5 of the drawings may be provided with marginal punch holes, such as 61, 62 and 63, for accommodation thereof in ring binders. Similar punch holes (not shown) may be provided in the secondary charts 34 and 37. Conventional techniques may be employed for manufacturing coloring agents and developers necessary for realizing the target colors within corresponding development time ranges in the coloring of hair. The subject invention includes comprising a compendium of chapters representing natural hair colors divided into sections representing target colors. Figs. 4 and 5 illustrate representative parts 65 and 66 of such a compendium 3β which in practice may, however, comprise some fifty, one hundred or more sheets to list the many different shades of hair colors now available. Each chapter is indexed in terms of corresponding natural hair color. This is indicated in Figs. 4 and 5 by blocks 61 and 63 in which the name of the particular natural hair color and some characteristic indicium thereof may be listed, such as indicated in Table I, for instance. There may be a separate page (not shown) at the beginning of each chapter listing the particular natural hair color of that chapter and its characteristic indicium. Such a chapter title page may be provided with an index tab (not shown) that signals the particular natural hair color or its characteristic indicium to the user or cosmetologist. Alternatively, or preferably additionally, such particular natural hair color of the same chapter and its characteristic indicium are listed on all parts or sections of that same chapter, such as in the blocks 61 or 63. Moreover, each section is indexed in terms of a corresponding target color, such as in blocks 62 and 64. Alternatively, or preferably additionally, an index tab 68 or 69 may be provided for listing or representing a target color indicium for the particular section, all for increased user convenience. The subject invention includes listing in each section all coloring agents and all developers in terms of quantity, concentration and development time range as necessary for realizing in a coloring process the target color indexed in that section. By way of example, graphic symbols of cups or other mixing receptacles, such as 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89 and 90 may be used for t:.αe purpose of indicating relative coloring agent concentration, such as in terms of grams of the particular coloring agent. On the other hand, graphic symbols of bottles or tubes 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, 103, 104 and 105 in which coloring agents are sold may be used for the purpose of indicating the particular coloring agent or agents. Developers may be represented by different graphic symbols, such as representations 107, 108, 109, 110, 111, 112, 113 and 114 of typical developer bottles. Various explanatory texts may be provided in additional blocks. For instance, the kind of treatment may be indicated in a block 116, such as "virgin, mid-shaft & ends application" for the kind of regional coloring indicated at 1 in Fig. 6 and more full described below. Whilst block 116 thus may contain a basic instruction, a block 117 may include a subsidiary instruction, such as "less than 30% gray" in order to indicate that the process symbolized by items 71, 94, 72, 107, for instance, is for the coloring of hair that is less than thirty percent gray. A block 119 may include another subsidiary instruction, such as "more than 30% gray" in order to indicate that the process symbolized by items 83, 101, 84, 102, 85, 112 is for the coloring of hair that is more than thirty percent gray. Block 120 may include an indication of required development time, or time for which the particular coloring agent and developer mixture is left on the hair prior to rinsing or other subsequent step. In this respect, block 120 may include a time range, such as "10-15 minutes", for instance. Block 120 may include a further instruction, such as "then apply roots & retouch formula", whereby a representative text in block 120 would read "10-15 minutes, then apply roots & retouch formula" . The next kind of treatment, or an alternative treatment, may be indicated in block 121 which, in that respect, is a sequel to or counterpart of block 116. For instance, block 121 may bear a legend, such as "roots & retouch application" . Blocks 122 and 123 may bear the same legends as blocks 117 and 119, respectively, described above. Block 124 may be similar to block 120 in content, except that it typically would contain only an indication of development time, such as "30-45 minutes", for instance. Fig. 5 may include similar blocks, as will become more readily apparent as the hair coloring process described and graphically illustrated in that section 66 of chapter 6 of the compendium 36 is considered in the course of this disclosure. In this respect and in general, typical background information on natural hair colors and desired target colors is set forth in Tables to follow below. Representative examples of this will now be explained with the aid of Figs. 4 and 5. In this respect, the block 61 in Fig. 4 may include the legend "NATURAL LEVEL 3", indicating that the sheet €5 is part of the chapter 3 that covers various colored target ..evels for naturally dark brown hair. Conversely, the block 63 in Fig. 5 may include the legend "NATURAL LEVEL 6 " , indicating that the sheet 66 is part of the chapter 6 that covers various colored target levels for naturally dark blonde hair, in the same compendium 36. Block 62 in Fig. 4 may include the legend "TARGET COLOR 4- 6_8" which indicates that the particular section 4 on sheet 65 is for people who want their dark brown hair (block 61 supra : "NATURAL LEVEL 3 " ) colored as medium auburn brown, such as apparent from Table III. In other words, the particular section 4 on sheet 65 is indexed in terms of the exemplary target color indicium 4-68 that is characteristic of the medium auburn brown target color. Since Patent Cooperation Treaty practice does not permit legends in international drawings, it may be best to set forth the contents of Figs. 4 and 5 in the following Tables V and VI, respectively, with "s" standing for "symbol" and referring to the contents of the particular symbol. The contents of the tube- shaped symbols 94, 95, 96 ... 104 and 105 are coloring agents that may be of a commercially available type designated by the above mentioned target color numbering system. The cup-shaped symbols 71, 72 ... 89 and 90 are designed to bear indications of contents, such as in grams, of the coloring agent associated therewith by a slant "/" meaning, for instance, "of". By way of example, the indication "60g" in cup 71 amounts to an instruction to put 60 grams of coloring agent 4-68 from tube 94 into the mixing cup 71. The same principle applies to the cup symbol 72 followed by a slant "/" and thereupon by a developer bottle symbol 107. For instance, the indication "60g" in cup 72 amounts to an instruction to put 60 grams of developer 107 into the mixing cup 72. The plus sign "+" midway between such symbols amounts to the instruction to mix the contents of cup 71 with the contents of cup 72 as the target color agent that is thereupon applied to hair to be colored, such as more fully disclosed below. In practice, one and the same mixing cup may be used throughout the practice of various embodiments of the invention. For instance, the numerical or concentration instructions given in cups 71 and 72 may be carried out in one and the same mixing cup for both the coloring agent listed at 94 and the developer listed at 107. Most advantageously, a tare type of scale is used for that purpose. For instance, a mixing cup may be placed on an electronic scale that indicates not only weight but, upon depression of a tare button, indicates also addition of further net weight. Such scales are conventionally available. Accordingly, a measuring cup may be placed on such electronic scale as cup 71, and the coloring agent listed at 94 may be poured or may be squeezed from a tube into such cup until the weight listed in that cup symbol 71 has been reached. At that time, the scale may be nulled so as to indicate the accretion of further weight. The developer listed in the symbol 107 may thereupon be poured into that mixing cup, until the scale indicates the weight listed in the cup symbol 72, whereupon the contents of that mixing cup may be mixed and applied to hair 10 for development on that hair for the time listed in block 120, until the desired target color has been reached. The developer itself may be a hydrogen peroxide type of developer. Developers are supplied in different commercial strengths, such as set forth in the following Table:

Table IV

Developer concentration: 3% 6% 9% 12% Corresponding "volume" designations: lOv 20v 30v 40v

Against such background knowledge, the line in the following Table between "s71" and "9%" conveys the following instruction:

"Mix 60 grams of 4-68 target coloring agent with 60 grams of 9% strength developer".

Similar instructions are set forth in the remainder of the example of Fig. 4. Such example may be summarized in the following Table V, with reference to Tables I, III and IV: Table V of Content of Fig. 4

Compendium 36, Chapter 3, Section 4, Part 65 Block 61: NATURAL LEVEL 3 Block 62: TARGET COLOR 4-68 Block 116: Virgin, mid-shaft & ends application Block 117: Less than 30% gray s71: 60g of s94: 4-68 + s72 : 60g of sl07 : 9% Block 119: More than 30% gray S73: 30g of s95 : 4-68+S74: 30g of s96: 4-4+S75: 60g of sl08: 9% Block 120: 10-15 minutes, then apply to roots & retouch formula Block 121: roots & retouch application Block 122: Less than 30% gray S76: 30g of s97 : 4-68 + s77 : 30g of sl09 : 6% Block 123: More than 30% gray s78:15g of s98:4-68 + s79:15g of s99:4-4 + s80:30g of sllO: 6% Block 124: 30-45 minutes

As a further example of this principle according to an embodiment of the invention illustrated in Fig. 5, section 7 of the dark blonde chapter of the compendium 36 may on sheet 66 be indexed on block 64 in terms of the target color indicium 7-67 that as mentioned above is characteristic of the medium auburn blonde target color. In other words, the user of the compendium will find sheet 66 of section 7 of the dark blonde chapter (block 63: "NATURAL LEVEL 6") for the instructions required to color a dark blonde person's hair in a medium auburn blonde shading. In this respect, the block 64 in Fig. 5 may include the legend "TARGET COLOR 7-67". Preferably, both types of indicia so far disclosed are listed together throughout the compendium according to the preferred embodiment of the invention. For example, a characteristic natural hair color indicium, such as 3 for dark brown, or 6 for dark blonde, for instance, is assigned to and listed for each natural hair color sample in the. kind of principal chart such as shown in Fig. 1, and preferably is listed also in corresponding parts of the compendium, such as mentioned herein above and below with respect to Figs. 4 and 5. In conjunction therewith, a characteristic target color indicium is assigned to and listed for each target color sample in the secondary chart having that target color sample, and preferably in corresponding parts of the compendium, with the target color in each section being indexed in terms of the target color indicium characteristic of that target color, and the natural hair color in each chapter being indexed in terms of the natural hair color indicium characteristic of that natural hair color. The instructions of part 66 of section 7 of chapter 6of compendium 36 may be as follows:

Table VI of Content of Fig. 5

Compendium 36, Chapter 6, Section 7, Part 66 Block 63: NATURAL LEVEL 6 Block 64: TARGET COLOR 7-67 Block 125: Virgin, mid-shaft & ends application Block 126: Less than 30% gray s81: 60g of slOO: 7-67 + s82: 60g of sill: 6% Block 127: More than 30% gray s83: 30g of sl01:7-67 +s84:30g of sl02:7-4 +s85: 60g of sll2 : 6% Block 128: 10-15 minutes, then apply to roots & retouch formula Block 129: roots & retouch application Block 130: Less than 30% gray S86: 30g of S103 : 7-67 + s87 : 30g of Sll3 : 3% Block 131: More than 30% gray s88:15g of sl04:7-67 + S89: 15g of sl05:7-4 +s90:30g of sll9 : 6% Block 132: 30-45 minutes

In compendia according to prefered embodiments of the invention, such section pages, sections and chapters each multiply themselves a dozen and more times, for up to and even more than a hundred different hair color shadings. Representative examples are set forth in the following Table. It will be noted that the examples of Tables V and VI are contained in this Table. Table VII for hair which is less than 30% gray

NL = natural level

TC = target color

(a) = virgin, mid-shaft & ends application

(b) = subsequent roots & retouch application c.a. = coloring agent q- = quantity in grams

C.vol = concentration of developer time = time of application of mixture to hair in minutes

NL; TC; of c.a. of 2nd c.a. and C.vol.; time

(if any)

1 3-69 (a) 60 3-69 + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 3-69 + 30 6% 30-45

1 3-78 (a) 60 3-78 + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 3-78 + 30 6% 30-45

1 4-68 (a) 60 4-68 + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 4-68 + 30 6% 30-45

1 4-75 (a) 60 4-75 + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 4-75 + 30 6% 30-45

3 4-68 (a) 60 4-68 (Fig. 4) + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 4-68 " " + 30 6% 30-45

3 4-75 (a) 60 4-75 + 60 95; 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 4-75 + 30 6^<; 30-45

3 5-68 (a) 60 5-68 + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 5-68 + 30 6^<s 30-45 Table VII continued:

NL; TC; q. of c.a. of 2nd c.a. ; q. and D.vol. ; time

(if any)

3 5-7 (a) 60 5-7 + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 5-7 + 30 6% 30-45

3 5-88 (a) 60 5-88 + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 5-88 + 30 6% 30-45

3 6-68 (a) 60 6-68 + 60 12% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 6-68 + 30 9% 30-45

4 5-68 (a) 60 5-68 + 60 6% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 5-68 + 30 3% 30-45

4 5-7 (a) 60 5-7 + 60 6% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 5-7 + 30 3% 30-45 4 5-88 (a) 60 5-88 + 60 6% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 5-88 + 30 3% 30-45

4 6-7 (a) 60 6-7 + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 6-7 + 30 6% 30-45

4 8-87 (a) 45 8-87 15 0-00 + 60 12% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 8-87 + 30 12% 45-60

5 6-68 (a) 60 6-68 + 60 6% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 6-68 + 30 3% 30-45

5 6-7 (a) 60 6-7 + 60 6% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 6-7 + 30 3% 30-45

5 6-87 (a) 60 6-87 + 60 6% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 6-87 + 30 3% 30-45 Table VII continued:

NL; TC; of c.a.; q. of 2nd c.a.; q. and D.vol.; time

(if any)

5 9-7 (a) 45 9-7 + 15 0-00 + 60 12% 10- 15 thereafter (b) 30 9-7 + 30 12% 45- 60

6 7-67 (a) 60 7-67 (Fig. 5) + 60 6% 10- •15 thereafter (b) 30 7-67 + 30 3% 30- ^■45

6 7-7 (a) 60 7-7 + 60 6% 10- ^■15 thereafter (b) 30 7-7 + 30 3% 30- ^■45

6 7-87 (a) 60 7-87 + 60 6% 10- ^■15 thereafter (b) 30 7-87 + 30 3% 30- ^■45

6 7-88 (a) 60 7-88 + 60 6% 10- ^■15 therafter (b) 30 7-88 + 30 3% 30- -45

6 8-67 (a) 60 8-67 + 60 9% 10- -15 thereafter (b) 30 8-67 + 30 6% 30- -45

6 10-5 (a) 45 10-1 + 15 0-00 + 60 12% 10- -15 thereafter (b) 22 10-1 + 8 0-00 + 30 12% 45- -60

7 8-67 (a) 60 8-67 + 60 6% 10 -15 thereafter (b) 30 8-67 + 30 3% 30 -45

7 8-7 (a) 60 8-7 + 60 6% 10 -15 thereafter (b) 30 8-7 + 30 3% 30 -45

7 9-98 (a) 60 9-87 + 60 9% 10 -15 thereafter (b) 30 9-87 + 30 6% 30 -45 Table VII continued:

NL; TC; q. of c.a. ; q- of 2nd c.a. ; q. and D.vol. ; time

(if any)

8 8-67 (a) 60 8-67 + 60 6% 10-15 therafter (b) 30 8-67 + 30 3% 30-45

8 8-7 (a) 60 8-7 + 60 6% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 8-7 + 30 3% 30-45

8 8-87 (a) 60 8-87 + 60 6% 10-15 thereafter (b) 30 8-87 + 30 3% 30-45

The 0-00 agent herein set forth is a bleaching agent without color pigment, sometimes referred to as "blonding cream" . The following Table adds a few examples for the coloring of significantly gray hair.

Table VIII for hair which is equal to or more than 30% gray NL = natural level TC = target color (a) = virgin, mid-shaft & ends application (b) = subsequent roots & retouch application c.a. = coloring agent q. = quantity in grams C.vol. - concentration of developer time = time of application of mixture to hair in minutes

NL; TC; q. of c.a.; q. of 2nd c.a.; q. and C.vol.; time

(if any) 1 3-69 (a) 30 3-69 + 30 3-0 + SO 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 15 3-69 + 15 3-0 + 30 6% 30-45

1 3-78 (a) 30 3-78 + 30 3-0 + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 15 3-78 + 15 3-0 + 30 6% 30-45 Table VIII contimιed: NL; TC; q. of c.a. . ; q. of 2nd c.a.; q. and D.vol. ; time

1 4-68 (a) 30 4-68 + 30 4-4 + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 15 4-68 + 15 4-4 + 30 6% 30-45

and for Fig . 4 : 3 4 - 68 (a) 30 4-4 + 30 4-4 + 60 9% 10-15 thereafter (b) 15 4-68 + 15 4-4 + 30 6% 30-45

and for Fig. 5: 6 7-67 (a) 30 7-67 + 30 7-4 + 60 6% 10-15 thereafter (b) 15 7-67 + 15 7-4 + 30 6% 30-45

Coloring methods of the following type may be performed in conjunction with the above mentioned embodiments of the invention. As a particular practical advantage, the compendia of the subject invention enable a cosmetologist to perform perfect hair coloring operations even without extensive hair coloring experience. By way of example, coloring of hair may include the steps of determining with the aid of at least one of the principal and/or secondary charts 12, 34, 37, etc., the natural hair color of the hair to be colored, determining with the aid of such secondary charts the target color for the coloring of hair 10, finding in the compendium 36 the chapter pertaining to the natural hair color of the hair to be colored and in that chapter the section and part pertaining to the desired target color for the coloring of that hair, taking instructions from such found section and part for preparing coloring agent and developer ingredients in such admixture as required for that target color, applying the admixture to the hair, taking instructions from such found section and part for a development time of such admixture on that hair, and completing the coloring of hair pursuant to such instructions. Even complicated hair coloring operations may be performed routinely with the compendia of the subject invention. By way of example, compendia of the type listed above in Tables V to VIII may be employed in performing (a) a first coloring operation including lightening first parts of hair 10, such as ends 136 and mid-shafts 137, in that first coloring operation indicated in Fig. 6 by the numeral "1", with the aid of charts 12, 34 or 37 and compendium 36, and coloring second parts of the hair, such as root sections 138, and darkening the lightened first parts of the hair 136 and 137 in a second coloring operation indicated in Fig. 6 by the numeral "2", in the same sitting with the aid of charts 12, 34 or 37 and compendium 36. Such first coloring operation "1" may include coloring the first parts of the hair, such as 136 and 137, with the aid of compendium 36. The chosen coloring agent may be activated with a first developer in a first concentration with the aid of a compendium 36 for a lightening of hair, and first parts of hair 136 and/or 137 may be colored in that first coloring operation "1" with such coloring agent activated with such first developer in that first concentration and for a development time as indicated in that compendium for causing lightening of such first parts of hair. A coloring agent may thereupon be activated with a second developer in a second concentration with the aid of compendium 36 for a darkening of lightened hair, and second parts of hair may thereupon be colored, and lightened first parts of hair may be darkened in a second coloring operation "2" with thι= coloring agent activated with the second developer in the second concentration and for a development time as indicated in compendium 36, such as set forth above in the various Tables. Such first and second concentrations may include different strengths of one or more developers as indicated in the compendium. Typically, the first developer in such cases will have a higher concentration than the second developer, as indicated in the compendium. Preferably, the first developer as indicated in the compendium has surplus oxygen acting on hair after the first developer has activated the coloring agent thereon. Appropriate graphic instructions in this respect may be provided on an additional chart 135.

The subject invention also resides in systems of coloring hair with mixtures of coloring agents and developers, comprising a compendium 36 of chapters individually indexed in terms of natural hair colors and divided into sections individually indexed in terms of desirable hair colors as target colors in the coloring of hair, such as illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5 and Tables V through VIII, listing in each section all coloring agents and all developers in terms of quantity, concentration and development time on hair as necessary for realizing in a coloring process the target color indexed in that section. Compendia pursuant to the invention may be realized in all kinds of different media, including books with or without loose leaves for addition or expansion, ROLODEX^® and similar physical or electronic card catalogue systems, CD Rom or other compact disk or EDP systems, for example.

This extensive disclosure will render apparent or suggest to those skilled in the art various modifications and variations within the spirit and scope of the invention.

Claims

I /WE CLAIM : 1. In a method of coloring hair with mixtures of coloring agents and developers, the improvement comprising in combination: generating samples of natural hair colors; assembling the samples of natural hair colors as natural hair color samples on a principal chart; generating samples of desirable hair colors as target color samples in the coloring of hair; assembling the target color samples on secondary charts; providing coloring agents and developers necessary for realizing the target colors within corresponding development time ranges in the coloring of hair; comprising a compendium of chapters representing natural hair colors divided into sections representing target colors; indexing each chapter in terms of corresponding natural hair color; and indexing each section in terms of a corresponding target color; listing in each section all coloring agents and all developers in terms of quantity, concentration and development time on hair as necessary for realizing in a coloring process the target color indexed in that section.

2. A method as in claim 1, wherein: a characteristic target color indicium is assigned to and listed for each target color sample in the secondary chart having that target color sample; and the target color in each section is indexed in terms of the target color indicium characteristic of that target color.

3. A method as in claim 1, wherein: a characteristic natural hair color indicium is assigned to and listed for each natural hair color sample in the principal chart having that natural hair color sample; and the natural hair color in each chapter is indexed in terms of the natural hair color indicium characteristic of that natural hair color.

4. A method as in claim 3 , wherein : said characteristic natural hair color indicium is also listed in secondary charts.

5. A method as in claim 1, wherein : a characteristic natural hair color indicium is assigned to and listed for each natural hair color sample in the principal chart having that natural hair color sample; a characteristic target color indicium is assigned to and listed for each target color sample in the secondary chart having that target color sample; the target color in each section is indexed in terms of the target color indicium characteristic of that target color; and the natural hair color in each chapter is indexed in terms of the natural hair color indicium characteristic of that natural hair color.

6. A method as in claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, wherein: said coloring agents and developers are of an oxidation type.

7. A method as in claim 6, wherein : said developers are of a hydrogen peroxide type.

8. A method as in claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, wherein said coloring of hair includes : determining with the aid of at least one of said charts the natural hair color of the hair to be colored; determining with the aid of the secondary charts the target color for the coloring of said hair; finding in the compendium the chapter pertaining to the natural hair color of the hair to be colored and in said chapter the section and part pertaining to said target color for the coloring of said hair; taking instructions from said found section and part for preparing coloring agent and developer ingredients in such admixture as required for said target color; applying the admixture to said hair; taking instructions from said found section and part for a development time of said admixture on said hair; and completing said coloring of hair pursuant to said instructions.

9. A method as in claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, wherein said coloring of hair includes : performing a first coloring operation including lightening first parts of said hair in said first coloring operation with the aid of said charts and compendium; and coloring second parts of said hair and darkening said lightened first parts of said hair in a second coloring operation in the same sitting with the aid of said charts and compendium.

10. A method as in claim 9 , wherein: said first coloring operation includes coloring said first parts of said hair with the aid of said compendium.

11. A method as in claim 1, wherein : a coloring agent is activated with a first de-v eloper in a first concentration with the aid of said compendium for a lightening of said hair; said first parts of said hair are colored in said first coloring operation with said coloring agent activated with said first developer in said first concentration and for a development time as indicated in said compendium for causing lightening of said first parts of said hair; a coloring agent is activated with a second developer in a second concentration with the aid of said compendium for a darkening of lightened hair; and second parts of said hair are colored and lightened first parts of said hair are darkened in said second coloring operation with the coloring agent activated with said second developer in said second concentration and for a development time as indicated in said compendium.

12. A method as in claim 11, wherein: said first and second concentrations include different strengths of said first and second developers as indicated in said compendium.

13. A method as in claim 11, wherein: said first developer has a higher concentration than said second developer, as indicated in said compe dium.

14. A method as in claim 11, wherein : said first developer as indicated in said compendium has surplus oxygen acting on hair after said first developer has activated the coloring agent.

15. A system of coloring hair with mixtures of coloring agents and developers, comprising a compendium of chapters individually :.ndexed in terms of natural hair colors and divided into sections individually indexed in terms of desirable hair colors as target colors in the coloring of hair, and listing in each section all coloring agents and all developers in terms of quantity, concentration and development time on hair as necessary for realizing in a coloring process the target color indexed in that section.