WO2002051368A1 - Reducing composition for treating keratinous materials based on amphiphilic polymers of at least an ethylenically unsaturated monomer with sulphonic group and comprising a hydrophobic part - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous materials comprising in a carrier suitable for keratinous materials: (a) at least an amphiphilic polymer comprising at least an ethylenically unsaturated monomer with sulphonic group, in free form or partly or completely neutralised and further at least a hydrophobic part; (b) at least a reducing agent. The invention also concerns methods and devices for bleaching or permanent waving of keratinous fibres using said composition.

Description

 REDUCING COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF MATERIALS

KERATINICS BASED ON AMPHIPHILIC POLYMERS OF AT LEAST ONE

ETHYLENIC UNSATURATED MONOMER WITH SULPHONIC GROUPING AND

COMPRISING A HYDROPHOBIC PART This application relates to a cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of keratin materials comprising, in a support suitable for keratin materials:

(a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or completely neutralized form and also at least one hydrophobic part,

(b) at least one reducing agent.

The present invention relates to a gelled reducing composition, intended for the treatment of keratin materials comprising an amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and also at least one hydrophobic part thus as its uses for bleaching and permanent deformation of human keratin fibers and more particularly of the hair.

It is known to bleach keratin fibers and in particular human hair, with bleaching compositions containing one or more oxidizing agents. Among the oxidizing agents conventionally used, mention may be made of hydrogen peroxide or of compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, hydrogen peroxide and persulfates being particularly preferred.

However, it is also known to bleach human keratin fibers such as the hair and in particular the hair artificially dyed with exogenous dyes, using reducing agents such as ascorbic acid or thiols such as cysteine. It is also known to carry out permanent deformation of the hair by applying to the latter compositions containing one or more reducers, the hair having preferably been previously tensioned, in particular using mechanical devices such as curlers, the hair thus reduced then being reoxidized in the desired shape, most often after rinsing, by means of the oxygen in the air, but more generally via an oxidant which is preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide or alkaline bromates. The reducing agents preferably used in the context of permanent deformation of the hair are thiols such as thioglycolic acid, its salts and esters, thiolactic acid and its salts, cysteine or cysteamine, and sulfites.

The compositions intended for bleaching the hair using reducing agents are mainly in the form of ready-to-use compositions consisting of anhydrous products (powders or creams) containing the reducing agent (s) which are mixed at the time. use with an aqueous composition optionally containing a pH agent. The bleaching compositions are also in the form of aqueous ready-to-use compositions containing the or. reducing agents at the appropriate pH.

The reducing compositions for the permanent deformation of the hair are generally in the form of aqueous compositions ready for use or in the form of anhydrous powdery or liquid compositions which are mixed at the time of use with an aqueous composition at the appropriate pH.

To locate the product of discoloration or permanent deformation when applied to the hair, so that it does not run on the face or outside the areas which it is proposed to treat, we have so far used the use of traditional thickeners such as crosslinked polyacrylic acid, hydroxyethylcelluloses, certain polyurethanes, waxes, and in addition, in the case of bleaching compositions, with mixtures of nonionic surfactants of HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), which, suitably chosen, generate the gelling effect when diluted with water and / or surfactants.

In addition, cosmetic formulations have been sought for many years in the form of transparent gels. This type of presentation is highly appreciated by the consumer for aesthetic reasons and for reasons of ease and comfort of use.

The gel form most often corresponds to a practical concern for the formulator: to facilitate the taking of the product out of its packaging without significant loss, to limit the diffusion of the product to the local treatment area and to be able to use it in sufficient quantities to obtain the desired cosmetic effect. This objective is important for the reducing formulations used in bleaching or in permanent deformation of the hair. These must spread out well and be distributed evenly along the keratin fibers and do not drip onto the forehead, nape of the neck, face or into the eyes.

The Applicant has found that the thickening systems previously used did not make it possible to obtain sufficiently powerful and homogeneous discolourations or permanent deformations.

Furthermore, it also found that the compositions for bleaching or permanent deformation of the hair, ready to use, containing the reducing agent or agents, and in addition the thickening systems of the prior art did not allow a sufficiently precise application. without drips or drops in viscosity over time.

Now, after significant research carried out on the question, the Applicant has now discovered that it is possible to obtain compositions for bleaching or permanent deformation of the hair containing at least one reducing agent, ready to use, under form of gels which do not flow and therefore remain well localized at the point of application, and which also make it possible to obtain discoloration or permanent and powerful and homogeneous deformations, if an effective amount of an amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and in addition at least one hydrophobic part.

These discoveries are the basis of the present invention.

A subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended for the treatment of keratin materials comprising, in a support suitable for keratin materials:

(a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and also at least one hydrophobic part and, (b) at least one reducing agent.

The invention also relates to the use of these polymers as thickening and / or gelling agent in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising at least one reducing agent.

The subject of the present invention is therefore the use of these polymers in a ready-to-use composition for discoloration or permanent deformation of the fibers. Human keratin and in particular the hair, comprising, in a medium suitable for bleaching or permanent deformation, at least one reducing agent. ,

By “ready-to-use composition” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, the composition intended to be applied as it is to keratin fibers, that is to say that it can be stored as it is before use or result from extemporaneous mixture of two or more compositions.

When the ready-to-use composition results from the extemporaneous mixture of several compositions, the polymer according to the invention may be present in one or more or in all of the mixed compositions.

In this way, the polymer according to the invention can be present in an anhydrous composition in the form of preferably powdery powder or cream and / or in one or more aqueous compositions.

Preferably according to the invention, the polymer or polymers according to the invention are present in at least one aqueous composition which is mixed at the time of use with a composition either aqueous or anhydrous in the form of powder or cream and containing at least one reducing agent.

Another preferred form of the invention is a unique composition containing the reducing agent (s) and the polymer (s) according to the invention.

Another object targeted by the present invention is the use of these polymers in an anhydrous composition comprising at least one reducing agent, said composition being intended to be diluted before application to the fibers.

The invention also relates to a bleaching process and a process for permanent deformation of human keratin fibers and in particular the hair using the bleaching composition or permanent deformation ready for use as described above, the application of said composition which can be followed, in the case of permanent deformation, by the application, optionally after rinsing, of an oxidizing composition.

The invention also relates to bleaching devices or "Kits" for packaging containing such a ready-to-use composition. Thus, a device with two compartments comprises a first compartment containing at least one powder or an anhydrous cream or an aqueous composition, and the second compartment an aqueous composition, at least one of the two compartments containing at least one reducing agent and the at least one of the two compartments containing at least one polymer according to the invention.

However, other characteristics, aspects, objects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

Amphiphilic polymers according to the invention

The polymers in accordance with the invention are amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. The term “amphiphilic polymer” means any polymer comprising both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part and in particular a fatty chain.

The hydrophobic part present in the polymers of the invention preferably contains from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the polymers in accordance with the invention are partially or totally neutralized with an inorganic base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N- methyl glucamine, basic amino acids like arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.

The amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mole.

The amphiphilic polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. Preferably, crosslinked amphiphilic polymers are chosen. When they are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Mention may be made, for example, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol-diallyl ether, polyglycol-diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol-divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, di (meth) acrylate of ethylene glycol or of tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxy-ethane, trimethylolpropane-diallylether) allyl, allyl ethers of alcohols from the sugar series, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

More particularly, methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA) will be used. The crosslinking rate will generally vary from 0.01 to 10% by mole and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% by mole relative to the polymer.

The ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing a sulfonic group are chosen in particular from vinyisulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (CC ₂₂ ) alkylsulfonic acids, N- ^ C ^ alky met Jacrylamido ^ C ₂₂ ) alkylsulfonic acids. undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid and their partially or totally neutralized forms. -

More preferably, use will be made of (meth) acrylamido (CC ₂₂ ) alkyl sulfonic acids such as, for example, acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-propane-sulfonic acid, acid 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropane-sulfonic, methacrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, 2- acrylamido-n-butane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentane-sulfonic acid , 2-methacrylamido-dodecyl-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptane-sulfonic acid and their partially or completely neutralized forms.

More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid (AMPS) will be used as well as its partially or completely neutralized forms. The amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention can in particular be chosen from random amphiphilic polymers of AMPS modified by reaction with an n-monoalkylamine or a di-n-alkylamine C ₆ -C ₂₂ , and such as those described in the application WO00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen, for example, from (meth) acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives substituted in β or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides , vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

The preferred polymers of the invention are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and of at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon and even more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

These same copolymers can also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain such as (meth) acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives substituted in β or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, US patent 5089578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

"Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336. "

- "Miscelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2- methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694-3704 ";

- "Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to an polyelectrolyte: sait effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol.16, N ° 12, 5324-5332"; - "Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2- methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40 (2), 220-221 ”.

The hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers of these particular copolymers are preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (I) below:

in which Rj and R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C _r C ₆ (preferably methyl) alkyl radical; Y denotes O or NH; R2 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical comprising at least from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and varies from 0 to 100.

The radical R2 is preferably chosen from linear C ₆ -Cι ₈ alkyl radicals (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl), branched or cyclic (for example cyclododecane ( C ₁₂ ) or adamantane (C ₁₀ )); C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkylperfluorinated radicals (for example the group of formula - (CH ₂ ) ₂ - (CF ₂ ) ₉ -CF ₃ ); the cholesteryl radical (C ₂₇ ) or a residue of cholesterol ester such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; aromatic polycyclic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, more particularly preferred are linear alkyl radicals and more particularly the n-dodecyl radical.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the monomer of formula (I) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x> 1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylenated chain, preferably, consists of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consisting of ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylenated units generally varies from 3 to 100 and more preferably from 3 to 50 and even more preferably from 7 to 25.

Among these polymers, there may be mentioned:

- crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C ₈ -Cι ₆ ) alkyl (meth) acrylamide or of (C ₈ -C ₁₆ ) alkyl (meth) acrylate with respect to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A 750 899;

- terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n- (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,089,578.

Mention may also be made of the fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate copolymers as well as the non-crosslinked and crosslinked AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.

Mention will be made more particularly of the copolymers consisting of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid (AMPS) units of formula (II) below:

in which X ⁺ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion, and of units of formula (III) below:

in which x denotes an integer varying from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80 and more preferably from 7 to 25; R | has the same meaning as that indicated above in formula (I) and R4 denotes a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ and more preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ alkyl.

Particularly preferred polymers are those for which x = 25, R- | denotes methyl and R4 represents n-dodecyl; they are described in the Morishima articles mentioned above.

The polymers for which X ⁺ denotes sodium or ammonium are more particularly preferred.

The preferred amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention can be obtained according to conventional radical polymerization processes in the presence of one or more initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, ABAH (2,2- azobis [2-amidinopropane] hydrochloride), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, ^• benzoyl hydroperoxide, tert-butyl, etc., peroxide compounds minerals such as potassium persulfate or ammonium, or H2O2 possibly in the presence of reducing agents.

They are especially obtained by radical polymerization in a tert-butanol medium in which they precipitate.

By using precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a particle size distribution of the polymer which is particularly favorable for its uses. The particle size distribution of the polymer can be determined for example by laser diffraction or image analysis.

An interesting distribution for type of polymer and determined by image analysis is as follows: 60.2% less than 423 microns, 52.0% less than 212 microns, 26.6% less than 106 microns, 2.6% less than 45 microns and 26.6% greater than 850 microns.

The reaction can be carried out at a temperature between 0 and 150 ° C, preferably between 10 and 100 ° C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure. It can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen. According to this process, in particular, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) or one of its sodium or ammonium salts was polymerized with an ester of (meth) acrylic acid and,

of a C-I Q-C-I S alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® C-080 from the company HOECHST / CLARIANT),

of a C <oxo alcohol _| 1 oxyethylenated with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® UD-080 from the company HOECHST / CLARIANT),

of a C-j oxo alcohol oxyethylenated with 7 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® UD-070 from the company HOECHST / CLARIANT),

of a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 7 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® LA-070 from the company HOECHST / CLARIANT),

of a C-12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 9 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® LA-090 from the company HOECHST / CLARIANT),

of a C12-C-14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 11 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® LA-110 from the company HOECHST / CLARIANT),

of a C ^ -C-is alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-080 from the company HOECHST / CLARIANT),

of a C- | 6-C- | 8 alcohol oxyethylenated with 15 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-150 from the company HOECHST / CLARIANT), of a C-jg-C-is alcohol oxyethylenated with 11 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-110 from the company HOECHST / CLARIANT),

of a C ^ Q-C ^ Q alcohol oxyethylenated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-200 from the company HOECHST / CLARIANT),

of a C-ig-C-is alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-250 from the company HOECHST / CLARIANT),

of a C18-C22 alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 moles of ethylene oxide and / or an iso C ^ Q-CI Q alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 moles of ethylene oxide.

The molar concentration in% of the units of formula (11) and of the units of formula (III) in the polymers according to the invention will vary depending on the desired cosmetic application and the rheological properties of the formulation sought. It can vary between 0.1 and 99.9% by moles.

Preferably for the most hydrophobic polymers, the molar proportion of units of formula (I) or (III) varies from 50.1 to 99.9%, more particularly from 70 to 95% and even more particularly from 80 to 90% .

Preferably for slightly hydrophobic polymers, the molar proportion of units of formula (I) or (III) varies from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 5 to 25% and even more particularly from 10 to 20%. The distribution of the monomers in the polymers of the invention can be, for example, alternating, block (including multiblock) or any.

According to the invention, it is preferred that the polymers have pendant chains sensitive to heat and whose aqueous solution has a viscosity which, beyond a certain threshold temperature, increases, or remains practically constant when the temperature increases.

More particularly still, polymers are preferred whose aqueous solution has a viscosity which is low below a first threshold temperature and which, above this first threshold temperature increases towards a maximum when the temperature increases, and which, above of a second threshold temperature decreases again when the temperature increases. With this in mind, it is preferred that the viscosity of the polymer solutions below the first threshold temperature is from 5 to 50%, in particular from 10 to 30% of the maximum viscosity at the second threshold temperature. These polymers, preferably, lead in water to a phenomenon of demixing by heating resulting in curves having, as a function of the temperature and the concentration, a minimum called LCST (Lower Critical Solution Temperature).

The viscosities (measured at 25 ° C. with a Brookfield viscometer needle 7) of the 1% aqueous solutions preferably range from 20,000 mPas to 100,000 mPas and more particularly from 60,000 mPas to 70,000 mPas.

The amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more particularly still from 0.5 to 2% by weight.

Reducing agents The reducing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from thiols such as cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, their salts and their esters, cysteamine and its salts or sulphites.

In the case of compositions intended for bleaching, it is also possible to use ascorbic acid, its salts and its esters, erythorbic acid, its salts and its esters, sulfinates such as sodium hydroxymethanesulfinate.

These reducing agents are used in the compositions according to the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 30% approximately, preferably from 0.5 to 20% approximately by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, the compositions according to the invention can also comprise, at least one amphoteric or cationic polymer.

Cationic polymers

Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” designates any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups. The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR- 2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.

The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5.10 ⁶ approximately, and preferably between 10 ³ and 3.10 ^e approximately.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type.

These are known products. They are described in particular in French patents 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among the said polymers, there may be mentioned:

(1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formulas (I), (II), (III) or (IV):

in which:

R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

A, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, RQ, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R-] and R2, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having

1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;

X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones, acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (CJ-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these polymers of family (1), there may be mentioned:

- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl hologenide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyrimrimethylammonium chloride described for example in patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium ammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company Hercules,

- vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP, for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or else the products called "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937 ". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,

- dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

- the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymer sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,

- and vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers quaternized such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP.

(2) Derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers marketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- , hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, of methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, of dimethyl-diallylammonium.

The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

(4) ^• The cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 such as guar gums containing groups cationic trialkylammonium. Guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used, for example. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL.

(5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

(6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or also with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, d 'an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amino group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

(7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkoyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

(8) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amino group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents American 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.

(9) Cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (V) or (VI):

formulas in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; Rg denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R7 and Rs, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C -1-C4), or R ₇ and RQ may denote jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R7 and Rβ independently of one another preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon; Y ^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2,080J59 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406. the polymers defined above, there may be mentioned more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Calgon (and its low molecular weight average counterparts) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide marketed under the name "MERQUAT 550".

(10) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units corresponding to the formula:

I 10 ^R 12

- N + -A. - N + - B, - (VII)

II ^{1 R} 11 X ^"R 13 X ^" formula (VII) in which:

^R 10 'Ru _» R12 ^{and R} 13 _> identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else RJ Q. R ^' 11. R12 ^{and R} 13 _> together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R-I0 "Rl 1 _> ^R 12 ^{and R} 13 represent an alkyl radical in Cj-Cg linear or branched substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O- R- -D or -CO-NH- R-14-D group where R-14 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

A1 and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

X ^" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

A1, R <| o and R- | 2 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group -

(CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:

- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) x-CH ₂ -CH2- - [CH2-CH (CH ₃ ) -O] y-CH ₂ -CH (CH3) - where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; . b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the bivalent radical

-CH2-CH ₂ -SS-CH2-CH ₂ -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X ^" is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454. 547, 3.206.462, 2.261.002, 2.271.378, 3.874.870, 4.001.432, 3.929.990, 3.966.904, 4.005.193, 4.025.617, 4.025.627, 4.025.653, 4.026.945 and 4027020.

It is possible to use more particularly the polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (VIII):

in which R- | Q. 11. ^R 12 and R-13, which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and, X ^" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

(11) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of recurring units of formula (IX): O - (CH ₂ ) ₂ 4- (IX)

in which p denotes an integer varying from 1 to 6 approximately, D may be zero or may represent a group - (CH2) _r -CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, X "is an anion;

Such polymers can be prepared according to the methods described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906, 4,719,282. They are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324.

Among them, there may be mentioned, for example, the products "Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1", "Mirapol AZ1" and "Mirapol 175" sold by the company Miranol.

(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as for example the products marketed under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.

(13) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

(14) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C < _| -C4) trialkyl (C- | - C4) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide. One can more particularly use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name of "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company ALLIED

Colloids. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names of "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (1), (9), (10) (11) and (14) and even more preferably the polymers with recurring units of formulas (W) and (U) below:

CH ₃ CH ₃ and in particular those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is between 9500 and 9900;

CH, C ^, 2H '' 5

{- N ^ - (CH ₂ ) ₃ - ⁺ - (CH ₂ ) ₃ 4 (U)

I Br I BΓ

CH ₃ C ₂ H ₅ and in particular those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is approximately 1200.

The concentration of cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention can vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% and even more preferably from 0.1 to 3%.

Amphoteric polymers

The amphoteric polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from polymers comprising K and M units distributed statistically in the polymer chain, where K denotes a unit deriving from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and M denotes a unit deriving from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, or else K and M can denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines;

K and M can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked via a hydrocarbon radical, or although K and M form part of a chain of a polymer with an α, β-dicarboxylic ethylene unit, one of the carboxyl groups of which has been reacted with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

The amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above which are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:

(1) The polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as more particularly the dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate and acrylate, the dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Pat. No. 3,836,537. Mention may also be made of the sodium acrylate / acrylamide propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride copolymer sold under the name POLYQUART KE 3033 by the company HENKEL.

The vinyl compound can also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. The copolymers of acrylic acid and of the latter monomer are offered under the names MERQUAT 280, MERQUAT 295 and MERQUAT PLUS 3330 by the company CALGON.

(2) Polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by an alkyl radical, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups reagents, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amino substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups whose alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tertiobutyl-acrylamide, N-tertiooctyl-acrylamide , N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides. The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.

The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butyl aminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.

Copolymers are particularly used, the name CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) being Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.

(3) Crosslinked and alkylated polyaminoamides partially or totally derived from polyaminoamides of general formula:

- f- CO - R ₁₉ - CO - z - r- (X)

in which R-jg represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from an aliphatic mono or dicarboxylic acid having an ethylenic double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or of a radical deriving from the addition of any one of said acids with a primary bis or secondary bis amino, and Z denotes a radical of a bis-primary, mono or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the radical

where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this radical deriving from diethylene triamine, triethylene tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol% the radical (XI) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which derives from ethylenediamine, or the radical deriving from piperazine:

\ - / c) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol% the radical -NH- (CH2) g-NH- deriving from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by addition of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis unsaturated derivatives, using 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent by amino group of the polyaminoamide and alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloracetic acid or an alkane sultone or their salts.

The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic acid and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic, terephthalic acid, ethylenic double bond such as for example acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids.

The alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.

(4) Polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula:

in which R20 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, R21 and R22 represent a hydrogen, methyl, ethyl or propyl atom, R23 and R24 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R23 and R24 does not exceed 10.

The polymers comprising such units may also contain units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate. By way of example, there may be mentioned the copolymer of butyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ.

(5) polymers derived from chitosan described in particular in French patents No. -2137684 or US-3879376, comprising monomer units corresponding to the following formulas (XIII), (XIV), (XV) combined in their chain:

R ^ -COOH

(XIH) (XIV)

(XV) the motif (XIII) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the motif (XIV) in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the motif (XV) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this motif (XV), R ₂₅ represents a radical of formula:

, 27,728

R 2, 6 ^• C - (0) _q - CH

in which q denotes zero or 1; if q = 0, R2, ^R 27 ^e * ^R 28 _> identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkoyiamine residue or a dialkoylamine residue possibly interrupted by one or more atoms nitrogen and / or optionally substituted with one or more amino, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio, sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the radicals R26. 27 and R28 being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q = 1, R2, R27 and R28 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.

More particularly preferred polymers of this type comprise from 0 to 20% by weight of units (XIII), from 40 to 50% by weight of units (XIV), and from 40 to 50% by weight of units (XV) in which R25 denotes the radical -CH2-CH2-; (6) Polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan such as N-carboxymethyl chitosan or N-carboxybutyl chitosan sold under the name "EVALSAN" by the company JAN DEKKER.

(7) The polymers corresponding to the general formula (XI) such as those described for example in French patent 1,400,366:

in which R29 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O radical, CH3CH2O, phenyl, R30 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl, R3-I denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl, R32 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula: - 33-N (R3i) 2, R33 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2 -CH (CH3) -, R31 having the meanings mentioned above, as well as the higher homologs of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms,

r is such that the molecular weight is between 500 and 6,000,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 1,000,000.

(8) Amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X- chosen from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloracetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on the compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:

-DXDXD- (XVII) where D denotes a radical

\ / and X denote the same or different symbol E or E ', E or E' denote a bivalent radical which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which may also contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and or urethane;

b) polymers of formula:

-D-X-D-X- (XVIII) where D denotes a radical

/ and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above ° and E 'is a bivalent radical which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or not by one or more hydroxyl radicals and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily having one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with the acid chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.

(9) (C - (- C5) vinyl ether / maleic anhydride alkyl copolymers partially modified by semiamidification with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as

N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an N, N-dialcanolamine. These copolymers can also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.

The amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (1). According to the invention, the amphoteric polymer (s) can represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight , of the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the invention preferably comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactant (s) can be chosen either, alone or as a mixture, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants.

The surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following:

(i) Anionic surfactant (s):

By way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list) the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkylsulphates, alkylethersulphates, alkylamidoethersulphates, alkylarylpolyethersulphates, monoglycerides sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C ₆ -C ₂ ) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C ₆ - C ₂₄ ) alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl amidesulfosuccinates; (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl sulfoacetates; acyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) sarcosinates and acyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) glutamates. It is also possible to use the alkyl esters (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) carboxylic polyglycosides such as the alkylglucoside citrates, the alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and the alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates., The alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl-lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use the alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, the polyoxyalkylene carboxylic (C ₆ -C ₂ ) ether acids, the polyoxyalkylene (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, the alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) polyoxyalkylene carboxylic amido ether and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and their mixtures. (ii) Nonionic surfactant (s):

Non-ionic surfactants are also well known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, critical. Thus, they can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated alkylphenols, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide which can range in particular from 2 to 50. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1, 5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as amino (C ^ Q - C14) alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which fall particularly well within the scope of the present invention.

Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s):

Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the nature of which is not critical in the context of the present invention, may in particular be (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a chain linear or branched having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of alkyl (C8-C-20) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C8-C-20) amidoalkyl (C <| -Cg) betaines or alkyl (Cg-C2o) amidoalkyl (C- | - Cg) sulfobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in patents US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures:

R ₂ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (R ₃ ) (R ₄ ) (CH ₂ COO-) in which: R2 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R2-COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl radical , nonyl or undecyl, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 denotes a carboxymethyl group; and R ₂ '-CONHCH ₂ CH2-N (B) (C) in which: B represents -CH2CH2O, C represents - (CH2) _Z -Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X 'denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom

Y 'denotes -COOH or the radical -CH ₂ - CHOH - SO3H

R2 'denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Rg. -COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular C7, Cg, C-] -] or C-13, an alkyl radical in C ^ j and its iso form, an unsaturated C-J7 radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Coco-amphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphopropionatepropionate amphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrated by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

(iv) Cationic surfactants

Among the cationic surfactants that may be mentioned in particular (nonlimiting list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives. ; or amine oxides of a cationic nature. The amounts of surfactants present in the composition according to the invention can vary from 0.01 to 40% and preferably from 0.1 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the ready-to-use composition is generally between approximately 1.5 and

12.

More preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use compositions of the invention intended for bleaching is between approximately 1, 5 and 10, and even more preferably between approximately 1, 5 and 7. More preferably, the pH of the compositions of the ready-to-use invention intended for permanent deformation is between approximately 6 and 12 and even more preferably between approximately 7 and 11.

This pH can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents well known in the state of the art in discoloration or in permanent deformation of keratin fibers.

Among the basifying agents, there may be mentioned, by way of example, ammonia, alkali or ammonium carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, hydroxyalkylamines and oxyethylenated ethylene diamines and / or oxypropylenees, sodium or potassium hydroxides and the compounds of formula (XIX) below:

in which R is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C _r C ₄ alkyl radical; R ₃₈ , R ₃₉ , R ₄₀ and R _4i , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a CC ₄ alkyl or CC hydroxyalkyl radical.

The acidifying agents are conventionally, for example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or acids sulfonic.

The basifying or acidifying agents may represent approximately 0.01 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the discoloration or permanent deformation composition. The compositions of the invention can also contain sequestering agents such as for example ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA).

When the compositions containing the reducing agent and the polymer according to the invention are in anhydrous form (powder or cream), they contain the main agents and additives mentioned above in the form of essentially anhydrous solids or liquids.

When the medium containing the reducing agent is an aqueous medium, it may optionally comprise cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, including more particularly, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as the diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, the monoethyl ether or the monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. The solvents can then be present in concentrations ranging from approximately 0.5 to 20% and, preferably, from approximately 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The bleaching or permanent deformation composition according to the invention may also comprise an effective amount of other agents, also previously known in bleaching or in permanent deformation of keratin fibers and in particular, waxes, volatile or non-volatile silicones, cyclic or linear or branched, organomodified (in particular by amino groups) or not, preservatives, UV filters, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils, vitamins or provitamins such as panthenol, opacifiers, etc. ...

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) mentioned above, so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the bleaching or permanent deformation composition of the keratin fibers according to the invention do not are not, or not substantially, altered by the planned addition (s). Preferably, the bleaching process according to the invention consists in applying the ready-to-use reducing composition to the dry or wet keratin fibers, and to leaving it to act for a pause time varying, preferably, from 1 to 60 minutes approximately, and more preferably 10 to 45 minutes approximately, to rinse the fibers, then optionally to wash them in shampoo, then to rinse them again, and to dry them. Preferably, the permanent deformation method according to the invention consists in applying the reducing composition ready for use to the dry or wet keratin fibers, to leaving it to act for a pause time varying, preferably, from 1 to 60 minutes. approximately, and more preferably from 10 to 45 minutes approximately, optionally rinsing the fibers, then applying an oxidizing composition and leaving to act for a pause time of between 1 and 20 minutes and preferably between 1 and 10 minutes, then optionally at wash them in shampoo, then rinse again, and dry them. Mechanical means for tensioning the keratin fibers can be used before, during or after application of the reducing composition and removed before or after rinsing the oxidizing composition.

Concrete examples illustrating the invention are indicated below, without however being limiting in nature.

PREPARATION EXAMPLES:

Preparation of ethoxylated (meth) acrylic esters.

They can in particular be obtained by the action of glycidyl (meth) acrylate, or of (meth) acrylic acid, or of an alkyl (meth) acrylate, or of a (meth) acryloyl halide on a fatty alcohol. ethoxylated. There may be mentioned, by way of nonlimiting examples, the following preparations: a) from glycidyl methacrylate and GENAPOL T-250 b) from (meth) acrylic acid and GENAPOL UD-070 c) from methyl (meth) acrylate and GENAPOL LA-090 d) from (meth) acryloyl chloride and GENAPOL UD-070.

a) 500 g of Genapol T-250 and 75 g of glycidyl methacrylate are introduced into a one liter three-necked reactor equipped with a stirrer, a thermometer and a reflux condenser. The reaction mixture is heated at 100 ° C for 2 hours, and excess glycidyl methacrylate is removed by distillation under pressure scaled down. The monomer obtained can be used for polymerization without further purification.

b) 500 g of Genapol UD-070, 100 g of (meth) acrylic acid and acid are introduced into a one liter three-necked reactor equipped with a stirrer, a thermometer and a reflux condenser. p-toluenesulfonic as a catalyst. The reaction mixture is heated at reflux for 2 hours, and the excess acid and water formed during the reaction are separated by distillation under reduced pressure. The monomer obtained can be used for polymerization without further purification.

c) 500 g of Genapol LA-090, 100 g of methyl (meth) acrylate and 20 g of tetraisopropoxide are introduced into a one liter three-necked reactor equipped with a stirrer, a thermometer and a reflux condenser. titanium. The reaction mixture is heated at reflux for 2 hours, and after separation by distillation of the alcohol formed, the ester is distilled which remains under reduced pressure.

The monomer obtained can be used for polymerization without further purification.

d) 500 g of Genapol UD-070, 110 g of (meth) acryloyl chloride and 50 g of carbonate of carbonate are introduced into a one liter three-necked reactor equipped with a stirrer, a thermometer and a reflux condenser. sodium. The reaction mixture is heated at reflux for 2 hours, and the excess acid chloride is separated by distillation under reduced pressure. The monomer obtained can be used for polymerization without further purification.

Polymerization according to the precipitation method in tert-butanol

500 ml of tert-butanol and the calculated quantity of AMPS are introduced into a 2-liter reactor fitted with a reflux condenser, a gas outlet, a thermometer and a stirrer. The mixture is neutralized by introducing NH3, and the monomer prepared above is added to the reaction mixture. The reaction mixture is made inert by passing nitrogen or argon and when the internal temperature has reached 60 ° C., the initiator (AIBN) is introduced to initiate the polymerization.

After a few minutes, the polymer thus prepared precipitates. The mixture is brought to reflux for 2 hours, and the polymer is separated from the solvent by suction filtration, then it is dried under reduced pressure.

As described above, the following polymers were prepared: (from the following reactants in quantities expressed in grams)

EXAMPLES OF USE EXAMPLE 1: Discoloration composition

The following ready-to-use aqueous bleaching composition was prepared (expressed in grams):

The above bleaching composition was applied to natural gray hair with

90% whites, previously colored with shade 20 (copper) from the L'OREAL range

MOVIDA with a bath ratio of 10 g for 1 g of hair.

After 30 minutes of laying, the locks were rinsed and then dried.

The copper reflection has disappeared, revealing the hair again as it was before the application of the dye. EXAMPLE 2 Composition of permanent deformation

The following reducing composition was prepared (expressed in grams)

This reducing composition was applied to a lock of damp hair, previously wound on a curler 9 mm in diameter.

After 10 minutes of pause time, it was rinsed thoroughly with water.

An oxidizing composition was then applied (hydrogen peroxide 8 volumes of pH = 3).

After 10 minutes of pause time, the wick was rinsed again thoroughly.

Then we rolled out the hair from the curler and dried it.

The wick was wavy.

Similar results were obtained by replacing the copolymer acrylamido-2-methyl-2-propane-sulfonic / n-dodecylacrylamide neutralized by the soda of Examples 1 and 2 above by a copolymer crosslinked by methylene-bis-acrylamide consisting 75% by weight of AMPS units neutralized by NH3 and 25% by weight of units of formula (III) in which R- H, R4 = C-) 6-Cl8 tx = 25.

Similar results were obtained by replacing the copolymer acrylamido-2-methyl-2-propane-sulfonic / n-dodecylacrylamide neutralized by the soda of the examples

1 and 2 above by a copolymer crosslinked with allyl methacrylate consisting of 90% by weight of AMPS units neutralized by NH3 and 10% by weight of GENAPOL T-250 methacrylate units [units of formula (III) in which Rι = CH3,

and x = 25], or by a copolymer crosslinked with allyl methacrylate consisting of 80% by weight of AMPS units neutralized by NH3 and 20% by weight of GENAPOL T-250 methacrylate units [units of formula (III) in which R- C ^, R4 = Ci6- ^c 18 and x = 25].

Claims

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended for the treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises in a suitable support for keratin materials:

(a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer with sulphonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and in addition at least one hydrophobic part and,

(b) at least one reducing agent.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrophobic part of the amphiphilic polymer contains from 6 to 50 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the hydrophobic part of the amphiphilic polymer contains from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the hydrophobic part of the amphiphilic polymer contains from 6 to 18 carbon atoms.

5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the hydrophobic part of the amphiphilic polymer contains from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the amphiphilic polymers are partially or totally neutralized with an inorganic or organic base.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the amphiphilic polymers have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mole.

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the number average molecular weight varies from 20,000 to 5,000,000 g / mole.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the number average molecular weight varies from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mole.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that an aqueous solution at 1% by weight of said polymers has at the temperature of 25 ° C a viscosity measured with the Brookfield viscometer, needle 7, ranging from 20,000 mPas to 100,000 mPas.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphiphilic polymers are prepared by radical polymerization by precipitation in tert-butanol.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphiphilic polymers are crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the amphiphilic polymers are crosslinked.

14. Composition according to Claim 13, characterized in that the crosslinking agent (s) are chosen from compounds with olefinic polyunsaturation.

15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the crosslinking agent (s) are chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA).

16. Composition according to any one of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that the crosslinking rate preferably varies from 0.01 to 10% by moles and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% by moles relative to the polymer.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group is chosen among vinyisulfonic acid, styrene sulfonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (CC ₂₂ ) alkylsulfonic acids, N- (Cι-C ₂₂ ) alkyl (meth) acrylamido (C ₁ -C ₂₂ ) alkylsulfonic acids and their partially or totally neutralized forms.

18. Composition according to Claim 17, characterized in that the ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group is chosen from acrylamidomethane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-propane-sulfonic acid , 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido 2,4,4- trimethylpentane-sulfonic, 2-methacrylamido-dodecyl-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptane-sulfonic acid, and their partially or fully neutralized forms.

19. Composition according to any one of claims 17 or 18, characterized in that the ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group is 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as its forms partially or totally neutralized.

20. Composition according to Claim 19, characterized in that the amphiphilic polymers are chosen from random polymers of AMPS modified by reaction with an n-mono (C ₆ -C ₂₂ ) alkylamine or a di-n- (C ₆ -C ₂₂ ) alkylamine.

21. Composition according to any one of claims 19 or 20, characterized in that the amphiphilic polymers of AMPS additionally contain at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a fatty chain.

22. Composition according to claim 20, characterized in that the ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a fatty chain is chosen from (meth) acrylic acids and their alkyl derivatives substituted in β, and their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, or alternatively among (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

23. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that the amphiphilic polymers of AMPS are chosen from copolymers amphiphiles of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 6 to 50 carbon atoms.

24. Composition according to claim 23, characterized in that the hydrophobic part contains from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

25. Composition according to claim 24, characterized in that the hydrophobic part contains from 6 to 18 carbon atoms.

26. Composition according to claim 25, characterized in that the hydrophobic part contains from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

27. Composition according to any one of claims 23 to 26, characterized in that the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer is chosen from acrylates or acrylamides of formula (I) below:

Y -CH ₂ -CH (R ₃ ) -O -R.

in which Ri and R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched CC ₆ (preferably methyl) alkyl radical; Y denotes O or NH; R2 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical comprising at least from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and varies from 0 to 100.

28. Composition according to Claim 27, characterized in that the hydrophobic radical R ₂ is chosen from C ₆ -C ₈ alkyl radicals, linear, branched or cyclical; C ₆ -C ₈ alkylperfluorinated radicals; the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester; aromatic polycyclic groups.

29. Composition according to any one of claims 27 or 28 characterized in that the monomer of formula (I) additionally comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x> 1).

30. Composition according to any one of claims 27 to 29, characterized in that the monomer of formula (I) additionally comprises at least one polyoxyalkylenated chain.

31. Composition according to claim 30, characterized in that the polyoxyalkylenated chain consists of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units.

32. Composition according to claim 31, characterized in that the polyoxyalkylenated chain consists only of ethylene oxide units.

33. Composition according to any one of claims 27 to 32, characterized in that the number of oxyalkylenated units varies from 3 to 100.

34. Composition according to claim 33, characterized in that the number of oxyalkylenated units varies from 3 to 50.

35. Composition according to claim 34, characterized in that the number of oxyalkylenated units varies from 7 to 25.

36. Composition according to any one of claims 23 to 28, characterized in that the amphiphilic AMPS polymer is chosen from: - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS patterns and 40 to 85% by weight of patterns (C ₈ -C ₁₆ ) alkyl (meth) acrylamide or (C ₈ -C ₁₆ ) alkyl (meth) acrylate units, with respect to the polymer;

- Terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90% by mole of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10% by mole of AMPS units and from 5 to 80% by mole of n- (C ₆ -ι ₈ ) alkylacrylamide units, relative to the polymer.

37. Composition according to any one of claims 23 to 28, characterized in that the amphiphilic AMPS polymer is chosen from:

- the non-crosslinked copolymers of partially or totally neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl methacrylate.

- crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers of partially or fully neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide.

38. Composition according to Claims 23 to 35, characterized in that the amphiphilic polymer of AMPS is chosen from copolymers consisting of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid units (AMPS) of formula (II) below:

in which X ⁺ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion, and of units of formula (III) below:

O- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O -R, in which x denotes an integer varying from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80 and more preferably from 7 to 25; R _! has the same meaning as that indicated above in formula (1) and R ₄ denotes a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ and more preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ alkyl.

39. Composition according to claim 38, characterized in that x = 25, Ri is methyl and R ₄ is n-dodecyl.

40. Composition according to claim 27 or 38, characterized in that the molar proportion in% of the units of formula (I) or of the units of formula (III) in the polymers varies from 50.1 to 99.9%.

41. Composition according to claim 27 or 38, characterized in that the molar proportion in% of the units of formula (I) or of the units of formula (III) in the polymers varies from 0.1 to 50%.

42. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphiphilic polymers are present in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more particularly still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

43. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the reducing agent or agents are chosen from the group formed by thiols such as cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, their salts and their esters, cysteamine and its salts, sulfites, ascorbic acid, its salts and esters, erythorbic acid, its salts and esters.

44. Composition according to claim 43, characterized in that the concentration of reducing agent varies from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

45. Composition according to claim 44, characterized in that it varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

46. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one amphoteric or cationic polymer.

47. Composition according to claim 46, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a quaternary polyammonium consisting of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (W):

CH, CH

-f- N ^ - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ - (CH ₂ ) ₆ -] (W)

I CI- i cι-

CH, CH,

48. Composition according to claim 46, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a quaternary polyammonium consisting of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (U):

- £ - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ - (CH ₂ ) ₃ 4 (U) I Br | Br

49. Composition according to claim 46, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer is a copolymer comprising at least as monomers of acrylic acid and a dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

50. Composition according to any one of claims 46 to 49, characterized in that the cationic or amphoteric polymer (s) represent from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

51. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants.

52. Composition according to claim 51, characterized in that the surfactants represent 0.01 to 40% and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

53. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one basifying or acidifying agent in amounts ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

54. Composition according to claim 53, characterized in that the basifying agent is chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, hydroxyalkylamines and ethylenediamines oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene, sodium or potassium hydroxides and the compounds of formula (XIX) below:

in which R is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a CC alkyl radical; R ₃₈ , R39, R ₄ o and R ₁ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a CC ₄ alkyl radical or a CC ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical.

55. Composition according to claim 54, characterized in that the acidifying agent is chosen from mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or sulfonic acids.

56. Process for the preparation of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 55, characterized in that an anhydrous composition comprising at least one reducing agent and at least at the time of use is mixed an aqueous composition, at least one of the anhydrous or aqueous compositions comprising at least one amphiphilic polymer as defined in any one of claims 1 to 42.

57. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 55, characterized in that it is anhydrous and intended for bleaching or deformation of human keratin fibers and more particularly of the hair.

58. Composition according to claim 57, characterized in that the anhydrous composition is in powder form.

59. Process for bleaching or permanently deforming human keratin fibers and more particularly the hair, consisting in applying to the fibers, dry or wet, a ready-to-use composition comprising, in a medium suitable for bleaching, at least one reducing agent and at least one amphiphilic polymer as defined in any one of claims 1 to 42, and to let it act for a pause time varying from 1 to 60 minutes, and preferably from 10 to 45 minutes, to be rinsed optionally the fibers, to wash them in shampoo, then to rinse them again, and to dry them, the application of said composition being able to be followed, in the case of permanent deformation, by the application, optionally after rinsing, d '' an oxidizing composition which is left to act for a pause time of between 1 and 20 minutes and preferably between 1 and 10 minutes, then optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again, and we dry.

60. Device with two compartments or “Kit” for bleaching or permanent deformation of human keratin fibers and more particularly of the hair, characterized in that the first compartment contains at least one powder or an aqueous composition, and the second compartment one aqueous composition, at least one of the two compartments containing at least one reducing agent and at least one of the two compartments containing at least one amphiphilic polymer as defined in any one of claims 1 to 42.

61. Use as a thickening and / or gelling agent in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising at least one reducing agent, of an amphiphilic polymer as defined in any one of claims 1 to 42.