WO2003026603A1

WO2003026603A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological active ingredient combination of triterpenes and cyclodextrins

Info

Publication number: WO2003026603A1
Application number: PCT/EP2002/010042
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thomas Raschke; Timo Rode; Uwe SCHÖNROCK
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2001-09-21
Filing date: 2002-09-07
Publication date: 2003-04-03
Also published as: DE10146500A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological formulation containing pentacyclic triterpenes, in particular sericoside and cyclodextrins.

Description

COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL ACTIVE SUBSTANCE COMBINATIONS OF TRITERPENES AND CYCLODEXTRINS

description

The present invention relates to active ingredient combinations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection in the case of sensitive, determined dry skin.

The invention further relates to the use of such active substances and preparations containing such active substances for immune stimulation of the skin, advantageously also for immune stimulation in the sense of treating injured skin, in particular for treating wounds.

In addition, the invention relates to preparations with extremely low so-called "stinging potential" and cosmetic or dermatological formulations which the skin - z. B. after sunbathing - take special care and reduce the skin's reactions to the effects of UV radiation.

Basically, when lipophilic and poorly soluble active ingredients are used on the skin, there is the problem that they often only partially penetrate the skin and their full effect cannot be used. There has been no shortage of attempts to remedy this. For example, attempts have been made to encapsulate such active substances in liposomes, to improve the solubility of triterpenes by adding ethanol, or to incorporate active substances into microemulsions.

Sericoside (ie the (D) -glycosyl ester of 2α, 3ß, 19α, 24-tetrahydroxy-olean-12-en-28-carboxy acid) is characterized by the following structural formula:

and is part of the plant extract from Terminalia Sericea. The termalia are large trees with hard wood, of which about 150 species occur in the tropics of all parts of the world.

Cyclodextrins are made up of 6, 7, 8 or even more α-1, 4-linked glucose units, the cyclohexaamylose (α-cyclodextrin) being distinguished by the structure

distinguished. Cycloheptaamylose (ß-cyclodextrin) is characterized by its structure

out. Cyclooctaamylose (γ-cyclodextrin) is characterized by its structure

out. Cycloenneaamylose (δ-cyclodextrin) is characterized by its structure

out. Cyclodextrins can also be propoxylated or methylated. Hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl-γ-cyclodextrin and methyl-β-cyclodextrin are particularly important.

GB 1493926 describes certain pentacyclic triterpenes, also sericoside and its free carboxylic acid, as active pharmaceutical ingredients which can be incorporated into cosmetics and / or pharmaceutical preparations. A use for the treatment of dermatological disorders is particularly useful. The desirable use as an active ingredient encapsulated in cyclodextrins is not specifically disclosed.

DE 69112837 describes water-soluble pentacyclic triterpenes encapsulated in cyclodextrins. The oral use of such host-guest complexes is described, but not the topical use. Also, no glycosides and also no compounds hydroxylated in the 2-position in ring A are specifically disclosed.

Further prior art can be found in US 5543157, EP 756493, WO 9855148, EP 579435.

Starting from the one presented here, the object of the present invention was to convert pentacyclic triterpenes, in particular sericoside, into cosmetic and / or dermatological ones Incorporate preparations so that the corresponding active ingredient is more bioavailable and can also be incorporated stably into the preparation.

It has not been foreseen by the person skilled in the art that cosmetic or dermatological formulations containing pentacyclic triterpenes and cyclodextrins remedy the disadvantages of the prior art. It is advantageous if as cyclodextrins α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, methyl-β-CD, hydroxypropyl-γ-cyclodextrin, as well as mixtures of cyclodextrins, which are at least 30 wt. -%, based on the total weight of the cyclodextrin mixture containing γ-cyclodextrin, can be used. It is also advantageous if the cyclodextrin content is 0.001-20.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-10.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-5.0% by weight, based in each case the total weight of the composition is advantageous if the pentacyclic triterpenes or sericoside and / or sericoside-containing plant extracts are present, the content of pentacyclic triterpenes being selected from the range from 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparation. It is advantageous if the mass ratio of cyclodextrin to sericoside is 1: 3 to 5: 1, preferably 2: 3 to 3: 1, particularly preferably 1: 1 to 2: 1.

The above-mentioned preparations can advantageously be in the form of solutions, emulsions of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type, multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil type. in water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), hydrodispersions or lipodispersions, gels, solid sticks or aerosols, particularly preferably in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk, an emulsion foam which can be removed from an aerosol container and an emulsion which serves as a soaking medium for wipes. The invention also encompasses a cosmetic method for preventing and / or combating inflammatory skin conditions and / or skin protection in the case of sensitive, determined dry skin, and for caring for the skin after exposure to sunlight and / or for reducing the after-reaction of the skin to the action of UV radiation or a cosmetic method for immunostimulation of the skin, preferably for immunostimulation in the sense of treating injured skin, particularly preferably for treating wounds, characterized in that the formulation according to the invention is brought into contact with the affected area. The active substance combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing such active substance combinations are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention

Provide bio-available pentacyclic triterpenes in effective concentrations,

Achieve a significantly increased penetration behavior of the pentacyclic triterpenes,

• better maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties,

• counteract dehydration better,

• protect the skin better from environmental influences than the preparations of the prior art.

When using the active substance combinations used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active substance combinations used according to the invention is surprisingly an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis

of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages

of environmental (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and especially light-related negative changes in the skin and the appendages.

from light-related skin damage

of itching,

of dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders,

of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo

possible. The active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention also serves in a surprising manner

to soothe sensitive or irritated skin to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions.

to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (e.g. for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins)

for pretreatment and aftertreatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, e.g. B. serve the reduction of skin folds and scars to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

Accordingly, the use of active ingredient combinations of pentacyclic triterpenes contained in Terminalia sericea and cyclodextrins is also in accordance with the invention

For cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions,

• for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions - including atopic eczema,

• for skin protection with sensitive, determined dry skin,

• to protect the skin from photo reactions,

• for the treatment and prophylaxis of sensitive skin conditions,

• to strengthen deoxidative skin protection,

• and / or to improve the protection of the skin against environmental influences.

The active ingredient combinations according to the invention act synergistically with respect to the individual components in all these uses.

According to the invention, the addition of at least one further cyclodextrin and / or cyclodextrin derivative, selected from the group of the native cyclodextrins α-, β- and γ-cyclodextrin, is wholly or partly etherified and / or esterified and / or esterified on the hydroxyl groups differently derivatized α-, β- and γ-cyclodextrins, in particular the hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl-γ-cyclodextrin and the methyl-β-cyclodextrin.

According to the invention, a concentration of 0.001 to 20% and in particular of 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, of at least one cyclodextrin species and / or its derivatives is advantageous.

According to the invention, γ-cyclodextrin is particularly preferred.

The use of cyclodextrins and / or cyclodextrin derivatives to increase the solubility of sericoside is advantageous according to the invention.

The use of cyclodextrins and / or cyclodextrin derivatives to improve the biological effectiveness of sericoside is also advantageous. It is particularly important that pentacyclic triterpenes contained in Terminalia sericea and cyclodextrins form host-guest compounds. These are the reason for the special properties of the preparations according to the invention.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as DL-camosin, D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyi, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters ) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa- , Heptathio ninsuifoximin) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine Butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, Zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, Peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Α-Lipoic acids, ubiquinone, Q10 and σ-glycosylrutin are particularly preferred.

An astonishing property of the present invention is that preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to determine their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to produce cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:

3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethyl-hexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters include:

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts, and 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo 3-bornylidene methyl) benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-boron called nylidenmethyl-10-sulfonic acid

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters that are usually contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.

Further advantageous UVA filters come from the group of triazines, e.g. the 2,4-bis- [[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyi} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (trade name Tinosorb® S) and the Group of triazoles, such as the 2,2'-methylene-bis- [6-2H-benzotriazol-2yl] -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (trade name Tinosorb® M). An advantageous water-soluble UVA filter is the 2'-bis- (1,4-phenylene) -1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid sodium salt (trade name Neo Heliopan AP®).

The quantities used for the UVB combination can be used. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Pigments based on TiO _{2 are} particularly preferred.

It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention, although not essential, if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i.e. that they have been treated to be water-repellent on the surface. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophobic layer by methods known per se.

Such a method consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer according to a direction

n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '-> n TiO ₂ (surface)

is generated, n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, namely in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which come in various forms can be present. For example, they can be a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in -Water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk, an emulsion foam from an aerosol container are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert the active ingredient used according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

Mineral oils, mineral waxes

Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid as well as natural oils such as e.g. Castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;

benzoates;

Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oils are advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, iso-octyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl ethylpethyl Hexyl decyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁₂ -is alkylbenzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _2-i5-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C ₁₂ alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate -ι _5, and mixtures of C _12- ₁₆ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase can also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred, in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils, to have an additional content of other oil phase compounds. components. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxyl units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m assume values of 2 - 200,000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), n assume values from 3/2 to 20. Fractional values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous.

However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether , Diethy- glycol monomethyiV or - _^ monoethyl ether and analog products, further-alcohols of low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, which one or which can be advantageously selected from the group silicon dioxide , Aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the group of the gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, layered silicates,

Polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as hydrogels contain one or more

Hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group. Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention.

The use of derivatized gums such as e.g. Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Among the polysaccharides and dehvates are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form such as e.g. Stearylalkonium hektorite.

Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.

The polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10 or Pemulen TR1 & TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are

a) Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates) b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids

c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides

d) alkylphenol polyglycol ether (e.g. Triton X)

e) Sugar derivatives (esters and / or ethers of glucose, sucrose and other sugars; e.g. alkyl polyglucose such as polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate, methyl glucose sesquistearate)

Among the anionic emulsifiers are

a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate)

b) fatty alcohol sulfates

c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates

Among the cationic emulsifiers are

a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long chain aliphatic radical e.g. Distearyldimonium Chloride

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

a) Alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids

b) betaines, sulfobetaines

c) Imidazoline derivatives

There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, e.g .:

the fatty alcohol ethoxylates

the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',

the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,

the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',

the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',

the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester

the ethoxylated sorbitan esters

the cholesterol ethoxylates

the ethoxylated triglycerides

the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,

the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,

the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H

the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,

the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',

the propoxylated wool wax alcohols,

the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',

the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R \

the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,

the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester

the propoxylated sorbitan esters

the cholesterol propoxylates

of the propoxylated triglycerides

the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH

the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H

the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula

ROX _n -Y _m -H,

the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

ROX _n -Y _m -R ',

the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R \

the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,. According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageously with HLB values of 14.5-15. 5, provided the OΛ / V emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:

Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth .

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyIether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyIether (Ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetylether (Ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylether (Ceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol ( 17) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20), Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),

Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaueth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate , Polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate , Polyethylene glycol (20) oleate

Sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (evening primrose = evening primrose) It is also advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl capylene glycol / caprin glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also expedient to choose the sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

Advantageous W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched aikanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched aikanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C- Atoms, diglycerin ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched aikanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated saturated, branched and / or unbranched aikanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18, carbon atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate Glycerylmonoiso-, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglycerylmono- isostearate, propylene glycol caprylate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan monocaprylate, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

Glycerol, panthenol, chitosan, fucogel, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, lactic acid can advantageously be used as skin moisturizers. Use sodium pyrolidone carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, salts of the specified acids and glycine, urea and salts of metals of the first and second main group.

Glycerol, lactic acid, butylene glycol, urea, hyaluronic acid are particularly suitable.

The content of skin moisturizers is advantageously 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 2 to 25% by weight, in particular 5 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, are to be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -OSO ₃ ^2" , -SO ₃ \, while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

Anionic surfactants,

Cationic surfactants,

• amphoteric surfactants and

• nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and therefore behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They are positive in a strongly acidic environment and negative in an alkaline environment Charge. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X- (at pH = 2) X ^" = any anion, eg Cl ^"

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO- (at pH = 7)

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO- B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. Na ⁺

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

The surface-active substance can be present in the preparations according to the invention in a concentration between 1 and 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the usual additives and additives. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, other vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments with a coloring effect, thickening agents, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations. Examples

O / W creams

W / O / W cream (6) or O / W emulsions (7-10)

Example 11: W / O cream

Example 12, 13: Gel cream or hydrodispersion

Examples 13 to 16: Foundations

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological formulation containing pentacyclic triterpenes and cyclodextrins.

2. Formulation according to claim 1, characterized in that the cyclodextrin (s) are selected from the group α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, methyl-β-CD, hydroxypropyl-γ-cyclodextrin, and from the group of the mixtures of cyclodextrins which contain at least 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the cyclodextrin mixture, of γ-cyclodextrin.

3. Formulation according to at least one of the preceding claims with a cyclodextrin content of 0.001-20.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-10.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-5.0% by weight %, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. Formulation according to at least one of the preceding claims with a cyclodextrin content of 0.01-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1-5.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

5. Formulation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pentacyclic or triterpenes represent sericoside and / or sericoside-containing plant extracts.

6. Formulation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of pentacyclic triterpenes is chosen from the range from 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

7. Formulation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of solutions, emulsions of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (OW) type, multiple emulsions, for example of the type Water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), hydrodispersions or lipodispersions, gels, solid sticks or even aerosols are present.

8. Formulation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk, an emulsion foam that can be removed from an aerosol container or as an impregnation medium for cosmetic wipes.

9. Cosmetic method for the prevention and / or control of inflammatory skin conditions and / or skin protection for sensitive, determined dry skin, characterized in that the formulation according to at least one of the preceding claims is brought into contact with the affected area.

10. Cosmetic method for the care of the skin after exposure to sunlight and / or to reduce the after-reaction of the skin to the action of UV radiation, characterized in that the formulation according to at least one of claims 1 to 8 in contact with the area concerned to be brought.

11. Cosmetic method for immunostimulation of the skin, preferably for immunostimulation in the sense of treating injured skin, particularly preferably for treating wounds, characterized in that the formulation according to at least one of Claims 1 to 8 is brought into contact with the affected area ,