WO2003045345A1

WO2003045345A1 - Cosmetic product containing inorganic fillers and active ingredients

Info

Publication number: WO2003045345A1
Application number: PCT/DE2002/004306
Authority: WO
Inventors: Bernd Walzel; Leonhard Zastrow
Original assignee: Coty B.V.
Priority date: 2001-11-26
Filing date: 2002-11-19
Publication date: 2003-06-05
Also published as: EP1455748A1; DE10159029A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing certain inorganic fillers and thus exhibiting particular effects in terms of UV behaviour with or without organic UV filters, IR behaviour, colour, and cosmetic dermal sensation. Said compositions contain ground, optically clear glass particles which have an average size of between 0.01 and 100 µm in a proportion of between 0.1 and 55 wt. %, and are formed from a glass which is melted then solidified. The inventive compositions also contain other cosmetic carrier materials, auxiliary materials, active ingredients or mixtures of the same. Said glass particles can consist of optical glass, phototrophic glass, IR glass, UV glass, coloured glass, glass ceramics or mixtures of the same.

Description

Cosmetic with inorganic fillers and active ingredients

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions which contain certain inorganic fillers and thereby show particular effects with regard to UV behavior, IR behavior, color and cosmetic skin feel.

In order to improve the UV protection of cosmetics, inorganic oxides such as Ti0 ₂ , ZnO, Si0 ₂ or Zr0 _{2 have been} used for a long time. It is also known that so-called glass flakes, such as Si0 ₂ flakes or Al ₂ O ₃ flakes, can be used in their original state or preferably coated with metals or coloring metal oxides in pigment mixtures or also cosmetic formulations (DE 198 23 866, EP 1 013 725). Such flakes are produced, for example, as a platelet-shaped transparent matrix on an endless belt and have a thickness of 0.1-5 μm and a length or width of 1-250 μm.

The invention is based on the object of developing new cosmetic formulations with special color properties and properties which influence the absorption of light radiation and at the same time improved skin feel.

According to the invention, the new cosmetic contains optically clear glass particles ground with inorganic fillers and active ingredients and having an average grain size of 0.01 to 100 μm in a proportion of 0.1 to 55% by weight, the glass particles being made of a melted and then solidified glass educated are and are selected from the group consisting of soda-lime glasses, borosilicate glasses, aluminosilicate glasses, highly refractive (heavy) lead alkali silicate glasses and mixtures thereof, and it contains further cosmetic carriers, auxiliaries, active substances and mixtures thereof up to 100% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic.

“Glass” is understood to mean an inorganic mixture of substances which has cooled from the molten state without crystallization and has assumed a solidified state.

The glasses which can be used for the purposes of the invention include the silicate glasses already mentioned, such as soda-lime glass, borosilicate glass, aluminosilicate glass, highly refractive lead alkali silicate glasses (refractive index n = 1.5-1.65, also referred to as “heavy” glasses), preferably soda-lime glass. Such glasses are melted from sand, lime, alumina, boron compounds, potash, soda, etc. and are allowed to solidify in a shaped state.

Lime soda glasses are glasses made of Si0 ₂ (eg 71-75%), Na ₂ 0 (eg 12-16%), CaO (eg 10-15%) and the rest 100% of melting aids and possibly coloring substances , where part of Na can be replaced by K and part of Ca by Mg.

Borosilicate glasses are glasses made of Si0 ₂ (eg 70-80%), B ₂ 0 ₃ (e.g. 7-13%), Na ₂ 0 / K ₂ 0 (e.g. 4-8%), A1 ₂ 0 ₃ ( eg 2-7%) and the rest 100% of melting aids and possibly coloring substances.

Alumosilicate glasses are understood to be glasses in which Si lattice positions in the glass network are occupied by aluminum. Highly refractive lead alkali silicate glasses are glasses which, in addition to Si0 ₂ , Na ₂ 0 / K ₂ 0 and CaO, contain high proportions of lead oxide, for example 10-40%. The glasses according to the invention do not contain P ₂ 0 ₅ .

By adding different metal compounds, glasses can take on different colors. For example, Cu ⁺ leads to a weak blue, Cr ³⁺ to green, Cr ⁶⁺ to yellow, Mn ³⁺ to violet, Fe ³⁺ to yellow-brown, Fe ⁺ to blue-green, Co ²⁺ to intense blue ( or pink in borate glasses), Co ³⁺ to green, Ni ²⁺ depending on the glass matrix to brown-yellow, yellow, green, blue to violet, V ³⁺ to green or brown etc. You get mass-colored or mass-toned glasses. Intense yellow, orange or red colorations are obtained by excretion of precious metal colloids, selenium, cadmium sulfide and cadmium seide during cooling of the melt or by subsequent heat treatment. These glasses are also called "tarnish glasses", such as the well-known gold rubbing glasses with gold deposits in the glass matrix. Cosmetics with such mass-colored or surface-colored glasses represent a special embodiment of the invention.

In order to obtain certain insulating properties against sunlight, it is known to evaporate thin layers of silver, tin, gold and / or copper onto the glass surface on the outside of glasses. It is also known, e.g. Window glasses gray or bronze-colored to tint to reduce brightness, or to color yellow in particular. They can also be made opaque to UV radiation and short-wave blue, similar to glasses for sunglasses, where both effects can occur in combination.

Both simple mass-colored or surface-colored glasses as well as other glasses equipped with special properties, such as surface-tinted or -Vaporized glasses, glass ceramics, IR-absorbing glasses, UV-absorbing glasses, phototrophic glasses and mixtures thereof can be used in the sense of the invention. be set.

The glasses are previously subjected to a milling process, e.g. in ball mills or roller mills, whereby particle sizes of the glass powder of about 0.01-100 μm are achieved. If necessary, the glasses can be pretreated by prior heat treatment followed by quenching before grinding, e.g. due to a temperature drop from approx. 800 "C to 50" c within 2 seconds.

Particularly preferred particle sizes of the glass powders with the various properties are between 0.1 μm and 90 μm, in particular between 0.1 and 10 μm, especially between 0.8 and 2 μm.

A preferred proportion of the glass particles in the cosmetic according to the invention is in the range from 0.1 to 45% by weight, in particular 1 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 12% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic.

By using the glass particles, in addition to the coloring of the cosmetic, you generally get a significantly better texture of the product and a better skin feel. A cosmetic with glass particles with particle sizes below about 15 μm can be applied particularly softly to the skin. The added UV glasses and phototropic glasses also show a clear reduction in organic filters with the same sun protection factor, so that the risk of possible skin irritation, especially with high sun protection factors, can be significantly reduced by organic filter substances. IR glasses reduce the influence of IR radiation on the skin. All glasses show light scattering effects, which can intensify the special effect.

Microscopically, the ground particles have an irregular, polyhedral shape with approximately the same length, width and Height, so that the glass particles are not glass flakes and are not scaled.

Preferred optically clear glass particles are colored throughout by metal compounds in the glass matrix.

According to the invention, “optically clear” glass particles are understood to be those which are not cloudy and partially reflect, partially absorb and partially transmit incident light.

In another embodiment of the invention, at least part of the surface of the glass particles can be colored by metal compounds, e.g. through appropriate after-treatment. The color tint can advantageously have arisen in the form of tarnish colors from a cooling or heat treatment regime during or after the cooling phase.

In a further embodiment of the invention, the optically clear glass particles are ground optical glasses in the form of crown glasses, flint glasses or mixtures thereof. Optical glasses are high-quality glasses with high freedom from streaks, optical homogeneity, ie constant refractive index within a melt, the lowest possible bubble content, low absorption in defined spectral ranges and low birefringence. These glasses are based on soda-lime-silicate glasses (crown glasses), lead-alkali-silicate glasses (flint glasses) and glasses melted by lanthanum, B ₂ 0 ₃ , BaO, A1 ₂ 0 ₃ , ZnO and fluorides for special purposes. These optical glasses can also be colored by metallic sub-group elements such as Cu, Ti, V, Cr etc. Such optical glasses are, for example, glass D8010 or glass S-8061 from SCHOTT, Germany.

In a further embodiment of the invention, the optically clear glass particles are ground photoptrophic or photo- chrome glasses, whereby the terms phototrophic and photochromic are used synonymously.

With these glasses, the transmittance in the visible spectral range is reduced when irradiated with UV light. The glasses go dark. After the exposure has ended, it returns to its original value after a short time. In this way, the transmission of visible light can be reduced to 20%, the intensity of the light effect being proportional to the strength of the tint. Silver salts and metal halides (halogens = Cl, Br) or metal oxides are added to the borosilicate glasses here, and during and after the melting process, silver halides, glassy and / or crystalline components, which cause the phototropy, are eliminated by a defined temperature control , Chemically, this metal excretion is based on a redox process in which the silver ions are reduced to metallic silver. This will color the glass dark. Since the process is reversible, the silver atoms can release one electron each and convert back into the transparent silver ion.

The process described also takes place in finely ground phototrophic glass powders and within a cosmetic composition. Appropriate compositions can be all cosmetic sunscreen preparations for skin and hair and for decorative cosmetics, such as make-up, foundations, lipsticks, etc.

The phototrophic glasses can thus also function like a UV filter, which means that existing UV filter systems can be supplemented or completely replaced. The UV filter effect of the phototrophic glasses can depend on the intensity of the incident light, and would therefore offer the highest protection when the sun shines most intensely.

For the invention can be used photochromic lenses include PhotoSolar ^® Super Gray (code D1426), photo- sol ^® Superbraun (D6220), Photosolar ^® Superbrown (D6526), Photosolar ^® Super (D6726), Photosolar ^® Gray (D1125), HC Photosolar ^® dark brown (D6625) from SCHOTT, Landshut, Germany or corresponding glasses from other manufacturers.

Another preferred glass-like product are optically clear glass ceramics, which can be transparent or non-transparent in the visible area. Transparent or almost transparent glass ceramics are preferred. In the case of glass ceramics, the cooling of the glass which is in the melting state is controlled in such a way that submicroscopic fine crystallites are formed in suitable glass systems which, as nucleating agents, control the crystallization of the glass to a certain extent. This can result in different crystal phases and, as the end product, materials with extremely low expansion over a wide temperature range or those with mica-like crystals. Such glass ceramics stand between glasses and ceramics and have special refractive properties due to the crystal formation even in a ground state. Special color effects can be achieved from so-called polychromatic glass ceramics. Here, the crystallization is prepared by UV radiation and started by subsequent heating. This requires the presence of a few percent alkali fluoride, zinc and aluminum oxide, as well as small amounts of silver compounds and cerium oxide in the silicate glass matrix. The UV radiation forms metal colloid particles, which act as germs for the devitrification and convert the system into a yellow to brown colored glass ceramic upon further annealing. If other halogens (bromine, chlorine) are present, any other color tones can be produced by repeated UV radiation and heating due to different crystallites, which can give the cosmetic products special light scattering and color effects.

In a further embodiment, can

- the optically clear undyed glass particles - The optically clear surface or mass-colored glass particles

- The glass particles from optical glasses

- The particles from glass ceramics

- the UV and IR filter glass particles

- the photochromic glass particles

- Mirror glass particles

- Mixtures of which are silanized on their surface, which results in other hydrophobic / hydrophilic interactions with the water phase or the oil phase. For example, an improved hydrophilic behavior of the particles can be achieved by the silanization of the glass surface, whereby an improved incorporation of the particles into the cosmetic formulation is possible and an improved stability of the emulsion. The silanization as such is known and can take place in the liquid or vapor phase, e.g. by treatment with a suitable silane such as a tetraalkylsilane.

With the additions of various ground glass powders according to the invention, UVA and UVB absorption and / or reflection of cosmetic formulations can be influenced in a targeted manner depending on the type and amount of the glass powder. IR absorption and reflection can also be influenced to a certain extent. In addition, the glasses can have pigmenting properties. A particularly preferred cosmetic composition may contain glass powders which can change their color and / or absorption properties under certain conditions, such as e.g. UV radiation, or glasses that are coated several times on the surface with materials with different refractive indices in order to achieve interference and / or reflection.

A special effect can be achieved by different light scattering of the glass particles, especially when mixtures of different glass particles are present. Another embodiment of the invention is to use glass particles with IR-absorbing properties in a cosmetic formulation. Recently, the thesis has been made that skin-damaging effects not only emanate from UV rays but also and especially from IR radiation. IR radiation is also said to be involved in the development of skin cancer. Since about 46% of the solar radiation reaching the earth's surface consists of IR radiation and sun protection products do not have a heat-repellent effect, every sunbather in particular is exposed to an increased infrared effect. This is particularly encouraged by the practice that when using a sunscreen, depending on the level of the sun protection factor, the stay in the full sun can be extended for a very long time.

A cosmetic according to the invention, which contains glass particles from IR filter glasses, can effectively absorb rays with wavelengths> 780 nm from the IR region of the spectrum. This significantly reduces skin aging and the risk of skin cancer.

Known optical IR filter glasses or IR-absorbing meltdown glasses are e.g. the SCHOTT glasses No. 8625, 8533, 8516 and 8512 as well as corresponding differently labeled glasses from other manufacturers of IR glasses.

Another embodiment of the invention is to use glass particles with UV-absorbing properties in a cosmetic formulation. Such glasses include, for example, blue filter glasses and clear filter glasses. A blue filter glass is, for example, a dark violet or deep dark violet or blue colored silicate glass, such as M-UG 6, M-UG 6 plus, M-UG 2 or UVISOL 95 from SCHOTT, Germany. In these glasses, the spectral transmittance in an almost Gaussian distribution curve (error curve) is in the range from about 300 nm to about 420 nm between 0 and 80%. A clear filter glass with defined edge wavelengths is e.g. B. Sanalux, Type 316, Soladur, Type 320, Filter 322, Filter 324 and Filter 326 (all from SCHOTT, Germany) with transmission levels for UV-B of 25 to 2.5% in the order given.

Similar glasses from other manufacturers can of course also be used for the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The cosmetic according to the invention furthermore contains cosmetic auxiliaries and carriers, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Water, preservatives, vitamins, dyes, other pigments with a coloring effect, free radical scavengers, thickeners, softening substances, moisturizing substances, film formers, fragrances, alcohols, polyols, esters, electrolytes, gelling agents, polar and non-polar oils, polymers, copolymers, emulsifiers, waxes , Stabilizers.

Cosmetic agents can be used for. B. inorganic and organic light stabilizers, free radical scavengers, vitamins, enzymes, herbal active substances, polymers, melanin, antioxidants, anti-inflammatory natural substances, oxygen-loaded asymmetric lamellar aggregates according to WO 94/00109, which consist of fluorocarbons and phospholipids (AOCS), on final products of Yeasts or vegetable substances, produced by a gentle ultrasound digestion process according to WO 94/13783, kaolin as well as kaolin modified with Si0 ₂ according to W094 / 17588 and other usual active substances.

The use of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can e.g. B. take the form of sun creams, sun gels, after-sun products, day creams, night creams, masks, body lotions, cleansing milk, body powder, eye cosmetics, Hair masks, hair rinses, hair shampoos, shower gels, shower oils, bath oils and in products of decorative cosmetics such as deodorant sticks, perfume sticks, lipsticks, gels, eye shadows, compact products such as compact powder, blush, foundation, make-up etc. The manufacture of such products takes place in a manner known to those skilled in the art.

The oils used for the invention can be conventional cosmetic oils, such as a mineral oil; hydrogenated polyisobutene; synthetic or natural squalane; cosmetic esters or ethers, which can be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated; vegetable oils; or mixtures of two or more of them.

Particularly suitable oils are for example, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, squalane, tridecyl trimellitate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate thylpropan-, Isodecylcitrat, diheptanoate neopentyl glycol, PPG-15-stearyl ether, as well as vegetable oils such as calendula oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, Kukuin nut oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, safflower oil or a mixture of several of these. Depending on which oils are selected, the cosmetic properties are influenced.

Examples of suitable esters or ethers (INCI names) are: dipentaerythrityl hexacaprilate / hexacaprate / tridecyl trimellitate / tridecyl stearate / neopentyl glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, propylene glycol dioctanoate 5, propylene glycol dicaprylate 2.30 dicentylearate / tridecylylate / tridecylate dicaprylate dicaprate / tridecyl trimellitate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, isopropyle myristate, diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate, trimethylpropane triisostearate, myristyl ether, stearyl ether, cetearyl octanoate, butyl ether, dicaprylyl PEG1, PP Laurylglycol ether, PP laurylglycol ether, PP Laurylglycol ether, PP Laurylglycol ether, PP Laurylglycol ether, PP Laurylglycol ether, PP Laureglyglycol ether, PP Lauryl Glycol ether, PP Lauryl Glycol ether, PP Lauryl Glycol ether, PP Lauryl glycol P9, ether, Fomblin HC25. Suitable gel formers include carbomer, xanthan gum, carrageenan, acacia gum, guar gum, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, quaternized cellulose, quaternized guar, certain polyacrylates, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, montmorillonitone.

Antioxidants include vitamins such as vitamin C and derivatives thereof, for example ascorbylacetates, phosphates and palmitates; Vitamin A and derivatives thereof; Folic acid and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate; Flavones or flavonoids; Amino acids such as histidine, glycine, tyrosine, tryptophan and derivatives thereof; Carotenoids and carotenes such as α-carotene, β-carotene; Uric acid and derivatives thereof; α-hydroxy acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid; Stilbene and its derivatives; as well as pomegranate extracts.

It is furthermore possible to add water- and / or oil-soluble UVA or UVB filters or both corresponding to the compositions according to the invention. Advantageous oil-soluble UVB filters include 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives such as 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester; Esters of cinnamic acid such as 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, benzophenone derivatives such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives such as 3-benzylidene camphor.

Preferred oil-soluble UV filters are benzophenone-3, butyl-methoxybenzoylmethane, octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, homosalate and octyl dimethyl PABA.

Water-soluble UVB filters are e.g. Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone or of 3-benzylidene camphor or salts such as the Na or K salt of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid.

UVA filters include dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 1-phenyl 4- ('-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.

The organic UV filters mentioned can be partially or completely replaced by the special glass powders with UV-absorbing action used according to the invention, such as certain glass ceramics and phototrophic glasses.

Sun protection filters can also be inorganic pigments based on metal oxides, such as TiO ₂ , SiO ₂ , ZnO, Fe ₂ 0 ₃ , Zr0 ₂ , MnO, Al ₂ 0 ₃ , which can also be used in a mixture.

Particularly preferred as inorganic pigments are agglomerated substrates of Ti0 ₂ and / or ZnO which have a content of spherical and porous Si0 ₂ particles, the Si0 ₂ particles having a particle size in the range from 0.05 μm to 1.5 μm , and in addition to the Si0 ₂ particles there are other inorganic particulate substances with a spherical structure, the spherical Si0 ₂ particles forming defined agglomerates with a particle size in the range from 0.06 μm to 5 μm (according to WO99 / 06012 ).

Preferred concentrations of the glass powder are also in the range from 5 to 15% by weight. The refractive indices of the glass particles are in the range from 1.4 to 1.8.

The invention will be explained in more detail below by examples. All information is given in percent by weight, unless stated otherwise.

Example 1 face mask

Phase A

Water q.s. ad 100

Carbomer 0.5

Glycerol 4.0

Propylene glycol 2, 5

Kaolin according to example l W096 / 17588 2.0

Glass powder mixture blue (Co ⁺ glass) and red (Au glass), medium

Particle size 0.5-1 μm 5.5

Phase B

Glyceryl stearate 1.0

Stearic acid 0.5

Jojoba Oil 1.0

Cyclomethicone 5.0

Phase C

Triethanolamine 0.5

Phase D

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract 2.0

Camomille 1.0

Preservative 0.8

Perfume 0.3

The preparation is carried out by adding water to the glass powder, homogenizing for about 5 minutes at 10,000 rpm. Kaolin is then added at 2500-3000 rpm until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. The temperature is raised to 60 ° C ± 5 ° C and the remaining components of phase A are added. Phase B, which is produced separately with stirring and heating to 65 ° C. ± 5 ° C., is stirred with phase A and homogenized at about 8000 rpm and at least 60 ° C. for 15 to 20 minutes. Phase C is then added with stirring, cooled to 40 ° C., stirring is continued and phase D is added. After mixing, the mixture is homogenized at about 5000 rpm for 5 minutes.

A cosmetic formulation is obtained as a face mask with a silky shade of blue and a silky feeling on the skin.

Example 2 Make-up foundation

Phase A

Water q.s. ad 100

Squalane 10.0

Glass powder mixture ruby gold, average particle size 5-10 μm 5.0 Glass ceramic powder yellow average particle size 5-10 μm 5.0

Gold pigments (MERCK) 1.5

Color pigments Fe ₂ 0 ₃ (black) 0.1

Color pigments Ti0 ₂ 0.8

Color pigments Fe ₂ 0 ₃ (yellow) 0.2

Phase B

Steareth-2l 2.1

Steareth-2 2.9

C ₁₂ . ₁₅ alkyl benzoates 3.5

Stearyl Alcohol 1.5

Phase C

PEG-8 1.0

Phase D

Silicon cyclomethicone 5.0

Phase E

Preservative 0.6

Perfume oil 0.4

For phase A, water, squalane and the glass powder are mixed together and homogenized at 8000 to 12000 rpm for a maximum of 20 minutes. Then the other ingredients are added, mixed and the temperature increased to about 65 ° C ± 3 ° C. Phase B is prepared separately by mixing and raising the temperature to about 65 ± 5 ° C. The two phases are mixed with stirring and homogenized for 15 to 20 minutes at 10,000 rpm. The mixture is then cooled to 50 ° C., phase C is added with stirring and then phase D. The mixture is homogenized for at least 10 minutes at 3000 to 5000 rpm, cooled to about 35 ° C. Then phase E is added.

Example 3 I? Eeling gel

Water q.s. ad 100

Carbomer 2.0

Glycerins 10 Propylene glycol 5

Glass powder blue-green, mass-colored (Fe ²⁺ ) average particle size 85-100 μm 10

Phase B

Triethanolamine 2

Phase C

Silicone 2.0

Preservative 0, 5

Perfume oil 0.8

At room temperature, glycerin and propylene glycol are added to the water and stirred. Then carbomer is added and homogenized for about 20 minutes, and then the glass powder is added and homogenized at about 8000 rpm for a further 30 minutes. After neutralization with phase B, separately prepared phase C is introduced and the mixture is again homogenized for 30 minutes.

Example 4 Sun milk gel with color change under UV light phase A

Water q.s. ad 100 glass powder phototrophic,

SCHOTT, Photosol ^® Super Brown (D6220), average particle size 3-7 μm 20.0

Glycerin 5, 0

Cross polymer 0.3

Phase B

Octyl salicylate 5.0

Benzophenone-3 2.5

Dimethicone 5, 0

Jojoba Oil 3.0

Phase C

Triethanolamines 0, 3

Phase D

Preservatives 0, 8 Perfume oil 0.5

For phase A, the glass powder is stirred in water and glycerin, cross polymer is added and the mixture is homogenized at about 16000 rpm and a maximum of 40 ° C. for 20 minutes. Phase B is prepared separately at 45-50 ° C with homogeneous mixing and mixed with phase A. This takes place at about 45 ° C. and subsequent homogenization at 8,000 to 10,000 rpm for about 30 minutes. Then phases C and D are added and the mixture is again homogenized.

A sun milk gel with a sun protection factor (SPF) of about 30 is obtained. Example 4a

The same composition as in Example 4 without the glass powder leads to a sun milk gel with an SPF of about 15.

Example 5 Makeup Foundation II Phase A

Water q.s. ad 100

Glass powder UV glass, SCHOTT glass filter 322, average particle size 0.8-1.8 μm 4.5 Powder glass ceramic, average particle size 1-1.5 μm 5.5 color white (Ti0 ₂ ) 0.1 color brown ( Fe ₂ 0 ₃ ) 0.5 color yellow 0.2 phase B

Steareth-21 2.1

Steareth-2 2.9

C ₁₂ . ₁₅ alkyl benzoates 3.5

Stearyl Alcohol 1.5

Phase C PEG 8 1.0 Phase D

Cyclomethicone 6,0

Honey extract 0.5

The procedure corresponds to that of Example 2.

You get a special make-up that is very soft and elegant on the skin and has a protective effect against UV radiation (SPF 8)

Example 6 Skin gel with UV protection

Water q.s. ad 100

Glass powder phototrophic, average particle size 0.4-1.6 μm 20.0

Carbomer 0.9

Glycerin 10.0

Triethanolamine 0.9

Preservative 0, 3

Perfume oil 0.5

The individual components are introduced into the water with stirring, mixed and homogenized at 20-25 ° C in the order given. A gel with a SPF 8 sun protection factor is obtained.

Example 7 Skin emulsion with IR protection phase A

Water q.s. ad 100

Glass powder IR filter glass,

Schott Glass No. 8533 average particle size 1-3 μm 9.8

Phase B

Cetearyl Alcohol 2.8

Isopropyl myristate 3.0

Dimethicone 0.9

PEG 40 Castor Oil 1.0 Phase C

Preservative 0, 3

Perfume oil 0.5

The separately produced phase A, which was homogenized at 7000 rpm, and phase B, which was stirred at 500 rpm, are heated to about 70 ° C. and combined. After a homogenization time of at least 10 minutes at about 10,000 rpm / min is cooled to 40 ° C. Phase C is then added with stirring and the mixture is homogenized again for about 10 minutes at about 3000 rpm.

Claims

003034Patentansprüche

1. Cosmetic with inorganic fillers and active ingredients, ^' characterized in that it contains ground, optically clear glass particles with an average grain size of 0.01 to 100 microns in a proportion of 0.1 to 55% by weight, the glass particles from a molten and then solidified glass are formed and are selected from the group consisting of soda lime glasses, borosilicate glasses, aluminosilicate glasses, highly refractive (heavy) lead alkali silicate glasses and mixtures thereof, and containing further cosmetic carriers, auxiliaries, active substances and mixtures thereof up to 100% by weight, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic.

2. Cosmetic according to claim 1, characterized in that the glass particles are special glasses which contain additional components on the surface or in the mass.

3. Cosmetic according to claim 2, characterized in that the optically clear glass particles are colored throughout by metals or metal compounds in the glass matrix.

4. Cosmetic according to claim 2, characterized in that at least part of the surface of the glass particles is tinted in color by metal compounds.

5. Cosmetic according to claim 2, characterized in that the color tint in the form of tarnish is created by a cooling or heat treatment regime during or after the cooling phase.

6. Cosmetic according to claim 1, characterized in that the glass particles are ground optical glasses in the form of Crown glasses, flint glasses or mixtures thereof.

7. Cosmetic according to claim 2, characterized in that the glass particles are ground glass ceramics.

8. Cosmetic according to claim 7, characterized in that the glass ceramics contain additives which are selected from the group consisting of halides such as chlorine or bromine, zinc, Al ₂ 0 ₃ , CeO ₂ , silver and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the glass ceramic particles show phototrophic behavior.

10. Cosmetic according to claim 2, characterized in that the glass particles are ground phototrophic glasses.

11. Cosmetic according to claim 2, characterized in that the glass particles are ground IR filter glasses.

12. Cosmetic according to claim 2, characterized in that the glass particles are ground UV filter glasses.

13. Cosmetic according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the glass particles contained are silanized on the surface.

13. Use of ground, optically clear glass particles with an average grain size of 0.01 to 100 microns in a proportion of 0.1 to 55 wt .-% in cosmetic compositions with other carriers, auxiliaries, active ingredients and mixtures thereof, the Glass particles are formed from a melted and then solidified glass and can be selected from the group consisting of glass particles colored on the surface or in the matrix, particles of optical glasses, particles of glass ceramics, particles of polychromatic Glass ceramics, particles of phototrophic glasses, particles of UV glasses, particles of IR glasses, silanized forms of the aforementioned glass particles and mixtures thereof.