WO2004004678A1

WO2004004678A1 - Postfoaming cosmetic gel

Info

Publication number: WO2004004678A1
Application number: PCT/EP2003/006813
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jörg KÜTHER; Olaf Rohde
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2002-07-03
Filing date: 2003-06-27
Publication date: 2004-01-15
Also published as: DE10229812A1

Abstract

Disclosed is a water-based postfoaming cosmetic gel to be dispensed from an aerosol container, containing a) one or several anionic surfactants selected among the group of acyl amino acids and the salts thereof, phosphoric acid esters and salts, ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated sulfonic acids and salts, and ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated fatty acids comprising 12 to 22 C atoms in the form of the alkali soaps thereof; b) one or several pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives; c) 1 to 90 percent by volume, relative to the total volume of the preparation, of a gas (= primary propellant), selected among the group air, oxygen, nitrogen, helium, argon, nitrous oxide (N2O), and carbon dioxide (CO2); d) a secondary propellant, selected among the group of aliphatic hydrocarbon such as n-Pentane, isopentane, and isobutane, in a regular basic aqueous preparation. Said preparation is supplied in a container which is pressurized by the primary propellant such that the preparation is released when said container is opened.

Description

description

Foaming cosmetic gel

The invention relates to an after-foaming cosmetic cleaning gel, in particular shower gels or hand soap gels, but also bath concentrates for dispensing from an aerosol container.

Cosmetic and dermatological cleaning formulations are known, which are packaged in pressurized gas containers and foam their cleaning formulation independently after application. These formulations consist of a low-viscosity, surfactant-containing cleaning solution, which is converted into a cleaning gel by applying pressure with volatile gases (DE-OS 38 39 349).

Until now, it was only possible to incorporate starch or starch derivatives into these formulations in an unsatisfactory manner due to the poor solubility. If this was achieved through the use of solubilizers and long training periods, the risers of the application containers and in the valve area often resulted in blockages (reagent numbers / failures) and thus total product failure.

After-foaming cosmetic gels of this type are first applied to the skin in gel form from the aerosol container with the aid of an application agent and only develop there after a short delay under the influence of the post-foaming agent contained. The advantage of these compositions over the known finished cosmetic foams, which are already applied to the skin in foamed form from the aerosol container, lies in better wetting of the skin. Post-foaming cosmetic gels are known in principle. US Pat. No. 3,541 mentions water, soap (ie water-soluble salts of higher fatty acids), gel structure formers and post-foaming agents as essential components of such a composition. The addition of cosmetic active ingredients and auxiliaries is furthermore expedient, but not absolutely necessary. It has also been proposed (US Pat. No. 4,405,489) to dispense with a gel structuring agent, but in this case a special and complex process is required for the production and filling of such gel compositions.

In particular, the post-foaming gel composition according to the above-mentioned US Pat. No. 3,541, 581 40-90% by weight of water, 4-25% by weight of water-soluble soap, 0.5-12% by weight of post-foaming agent and 0.01 -5% by weight gelling agent. Water-soluble derivatives of cellulose, sucrose and glucose are used as gel formers, in particular copolymers of acrylic acid and polyallylsucrose or the reaction products of cellulose or glucose with acids or alkylene oxides.

In order to improve the flow properties when dispensing from the aerosol container, DE-OS 24 13 122 proposes a water fraction in the upper region (75-90% by weight) and a soap fraction in the lower region (5-15% by weight) , preferably 5-9% by weight) of the aforementioned composition.

However, the post-foaming cosmetic gel compositions described have decisive disadvantages, in particular during production: aliphatic hydrocarbons, preferably n-butane, pentanes and hexanes, are used as post-foaming agents. These compounds are flammable and form explosive mixtures with air. Therefore, an increased effort for explosion protection and similar safety measures is required during production.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to provide a post-foaming cosmetic gel composition which corresponds to the requirements of practice and which contains a non-explosive compound in the air mixture as the post-foaming agent and thus enables a problem-free and at the same time also less expensive preparation. It was also an object of the invention to provide further after-foaming cosmetic products based on the post-foaming cosmetic gel composition according to the invention, for example a post-foaming gel for skin care or for skin cleansing.

Surprisingly, this object was achieved by using a special new gel structure-forming mixture and adapting the modified amounts of the other components to this.

The invention therefore relates to an after-foaming cosmetic gel on aqueous for delivery from an aerosol container, containing a) one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of acylamino acids and their salts, phosphoric acid esters and salts, ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated sulfonic acids and Salts, and that of the ethoxylated and non-teethoxylated fatty acids with 12-22 carbon atoms in the form of their aikali soaps b) one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives. c) 5 to 300% by volume, based on the total volume of the preparation, of a gas (= primary blowing agent) selected from the group consisting of air, oxygen, nitrogen, helium, argon, nitrous oxide (N ₂ O) and carbon dioxide (CO ₂ ) d) a secondary blowing agent selected from the group of aliphatic hydrocarbons, such as n-pentane, isopentane and isobutane, the preparation being in a container which is pressurized by the primary blowing agent so that the preparation opens when it is opened Container is set free.

For the purposes of the present invention, “self-foaming” or “foam-like” is to be understood to mean that the gas bubbles are distributed (arbitrarily) in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the formulations not necessarily having the appearance of a foam macroscopically have to. Self-foaming and / or foam-like cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can, for. B. represent macroscopically visible dispersed systems from gases dispersed in liquids. The foam character can, for example, only become visible under a (light) microscope. In addition, post-foaming preparations according to the invention - especially when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - can also be recognized from the large increase in volume of the system.

Surprisingly, the very fine foam ensures a very even and thin distribution of the product on the skin. This leads to an extraordinarily pleasant, smooth and velvety feeling on the skin, which is unusual for an aqueous cleaning product, during and after application of the product. The preparations according to the invention are therefore extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect.

It is advantageous to limit the water content of the post-foaming cosmetic gel composition according to the invention to a maximum of 75% by weight; a water content of 45 to 65% by weight is preferred.

The acylamino acids (and their salts) can advantageously be selected from the group

1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium-cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

5. Acyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate

6. Alaninate

The carboxylic acids and derivatives can advantageously be selected from group 1. Carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate, 2. Ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate. and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,

3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

The phosphoric acid esters and salts can advantageously be selected from the group DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate,

The sulfonic acids and salts can advantageously be selected from the group

1. acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates,

3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-1 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

The sulfuric acid esters can advantageously be selected from the group

1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, Tl-PA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12- ₃ parethsulfate,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

It is advantageous according to the invention if one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives in a concentration of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.3 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.5 up to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, are contained in the preparations according to the invention.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention if hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives. Starch derivatives such as those described in US Pat. No. 6,248,338 are particularly advantageous, and hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate is particularly advantageous. It is very particularly preferred to use a hydroxypropyl distarkphosphate, such as that sold as a product Structure® XL by National Starch. An additional 0.5-6.5% by weight of one or more further thickeners, for example alkanolamides and their derivatives, are preferably added to the post-foaming composition according to the invention. Some of these compounds can also have a skin-care effect. According to the invention, particular preference is given to the use of 0.5-3.0% by weight of fatty acid diethanolamide, the diethanolamide of coconut fatty acid being particularly preferred, and 0.5-3.5% by weight of laureth-2-amide MEA (Aminol TM A15 from Chem-Y) each alone or as a mixture.

Furthermore, the post-foaming gel composition according to the invention can additionally contain small amounts of conventional cosmetic additives and auxiliaries, e.g. Perfume, preservatives, or dyes and skin-care substances such as proteins, in particular sericin, in amounts of up to 0.2% by weight. However, these additions are not absolutely necessary for the implementation of the invention.

Another embodiment of the invention relates to an after-foaming cosmetic gel for cleaning and / or care of the skin based on an aqueous soap gel for delivery from an aerosol container, which consists in an analogous manner of the components described above. Such a gel preferably additionally contains conventional skin care or skin cleansing substances which are compatible with the gel formulation, such as fatty acid esters or collagen derivatives.

The post-foaming cosmetic gel according to the invention is produced in a heatable or coolable kettle with an agitator. This mixer must be pressure and vacuum resistant, in particular it should allow working at pressures of at least 3 bar.

The soap body is formed at an elevated temperature, preferably at 80 to 90 ° C., by adding the molten fatty acid to the aqueous solution of the saponification agent and the sugar alcohol. Here, as in the subsequent further process, the stirring speed must be matched to the viscosity of the process material in such a way that gentle but sufficient mixing is always ensured. The stirrer speeds required for the mixing process depend, as is known to the person skilled in the art, on the type of boiler used and in particular on the type of agitator used. In the case of an anchor agitator, for example, speeds of preferably 10 to 300 rpm, in particular 20-40 rpm, have proven to be suitable.

After the soap body has been formed, it is allowed to cool to room temperature and the remaining constituents are preferably added in the following sequence during the cooling phase:

- thickener

- further gelling agent component (s)

- dyes

- Perfume

- Active ingredients if necessary

- Solvent component of the post-foaming agent (secondary blowing agent)

- Propellant gas component of the post-foaming agent (primary blowing agent).

The filling into the inner chamber of a conventional two-chamber aerosol container with a second, outer chamber for the dispensing agent is then carried out either at temperatures below room temperature (i.e. below 20 ° C) or in a closed pressure system.

In another embodiment, the mixing process is stopped before adding the propellant gas component and the propellant gas component is only added to the residual gel during the filling process.

In a further embodiment, the mixing process is ended before the solvent component is added, and the solvent component and propellant gas component are added separately or together during the filling.

All compressed gases and gas mixtures customary for this purpose and known to the person skilled in the art can be used as the application means. However, in order to obtain the advantage of comparatively problem-free processing in this step as well, it is advantageous to use a non-combustible gas or gas mixture as the spreading agent for the after-foaming cosmetic gel according to the invention. According to the invention the use of air, nitrogen or chlorofluorocarbons is therefore preferred.

The invention described above provides an after-foaming cosmetic gel composition which, through the use of a novel gel structure-forming mixture, leads to a product which, with a good lubricity of the razor, compared to previously known products with regard to the skin-care effect and the feeling of the skin after shaving was better assessed by the users. In addition, the gel composition according to the invention has the great advantage that it does not contain any flammable and explosive post-foaming agent in the air mixture, and thus enables simpler, safer and less expensive production.

Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water. Due to their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic part of the molecule, they ensure a reduction in the surface tension of the water, wetting of the skin, facilitating the removal and removal of dirt, easy rinsing and, if desired, for foam control.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -OSO ₃ ^2" , -SO ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues. Surfactants are generally of type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

Anionic surfactants,

Cationic surfactants,

• amphoteric surfactants and

• nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are almost finally characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^" (at pH = 2) X ^" = any anion, eg Cl ^"

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO- (at pH = 7)

R HCH2CH ₂ COO- B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. Na ⁺

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic surfactants

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously

B. Cationic surfactants

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alkylamines,

2. alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl and / or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Advantageous quaternary surfactants are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain. Cationic surfactants can furthermore preferably be selected for the purposes of the present invention from the group of the quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium, Al kylpyridiniumsalze, derivatives, for example, lauryl or cetylpyridinium chloride, Imidazolinde- and compounds with cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously _.

1. alcohols,

2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and Lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

6. sucrose esters, ether

7 polyglycerol esters, digiycerol esters, monoglycerol esters 8. methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

The total concentration of the surfactants is advantageously in the range from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably 1 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. The total concentration of the gases introduced (primary blowing agent) is advantageously 5-300% by weight, preferably 100-300% by weight, particularly preferably 200-300% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The total concentration of the secondary blowing agents added is advantageously 0.5-30% by weight, preferably 1-20% by weight, particularly preferably 3-15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

It may be advantageous to add additional gel formers or thickeners, also: “hydrocolloids”, to preparations according to the invention.

"Hydrocolloid" is the technological short name for the more correct term "hydrophilic colloid". Hydrocolloids are macromolecules that have a largely linear shape and have intermolecular interaction forces that enable secondary and main valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a network-like structure. Some of them are water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, the common feature of which is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked. The hydrophilic groups can be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows: NH ₂ - COOH - COO ^"' M ⁺ - NR ₂

_N ^• NH-R -SO O ₃ ^"M ⁺ • (CH ₂₎

II

OH - NH— C— NH ₂ → oϊ M ² - SO ₃ ^"

SH NH - NH ₃ X ^' +

II + -NR ₂

0 - - NH-C-NH ₂ - NR ₂ HX ^" I

I + (CH ₂ ) _n

-N—, NH ₂ - NR ₃ X ^" I COO ^" - PR ₃ X ^"

N_ ^ N

NH ₂ O ^"

- CH = IN

O

The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be divided as follows:

, organic, natural compounds, such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein,

• organic, modified natural substances, such as. B. carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and the like,

, organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as B. polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides,

• inorganic compounds, such as. B. polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as Mόnt- morillonite, zeolites, silicas.

Hydrocolloids preferred according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the following structural formula

in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the cellulose mixed ethers, which are generally also referred to as methyl celluloses and which, in addition to a dominant content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. (Hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses are particularly preferred, for example those sold under the trade name Methocel E4M by Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH ^ COONa. Particularly preferred is the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also referred to as cellulose gum.

Another advantageous gel former in the sense of the present invention is carrageenan, a gel-forming extract similar to agar, made from North Atlantic red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata), which is one of the florides.

The term carrageen is often used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract from it. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulfate content of approx. 25%. Carrageenan, which is very easily soluble in warm water; a thixotropic gel forms on cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%. The firmness of the gel is brought about by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. There are three main components in carrageenan: The gel-forming κ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1, 3 and 1,4 positions (In contrast, agar contains 3,6-anhydro-α-L- galactose). The non-gelling λ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues and the like. Easily soluble in cold water. The i-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfate in '1,4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming. Other types of carrageenan are also designated with Greek letters: α, ß, γ, μ, v, ξ, π, co, χ. The type of cations present (K ⁺ , NH ₄ ⁺ , Na ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.

The use of chitosan in cosmetic preparations is known per se. Chitossan is a partially deacylated chitin. This biopolymer has i.a. film-forming properties and is characterized by a silky skin feel. A disadvantage, however, is its strong stickiness on the skin, which occurs in particular - temporarily - during use. Appropriate preparations may then not be marketable in individual cases because they are not accepted by consumers or judged negatively. Chitosan is known to be used, for example, in hair care. It is more suitable than the chitin on which it is based, as a thickener or stabilizer and improves the adhesion and water resistance of polymer films. Representing a large number of prior art sites: H.P. Fiedler, "Lexicon of auxiliaries for pharmacy, cosmetics and related areas", third edition 1989, Editio Cantor, Aulendorf, p. 293, keyword "Chitosan".

Chitosan is characterized by the following structural formula:

n assumes values up to approx. 10,000, X represents either the acetyl radical or hydrogen. Chitosan is formed by deacetylation and partial depolymerization (hydrolysis) of chitin, which is due to the structural formula

is marked. Chitin is an essential component of the ectoskeleton [O χiτωv = grch .: the rocket] of the arthropods (e.g. insects, crabs, spiders) and is also found in supporting tissues of other organisms (e.g. molluscs, algae, fungi).

In the range of approximately pH <6, chitosan is positively charged and is also soluble in aqueous systems. It is not compatible with anionic raw materials. The use of nonionic emulsifiers is therefore suitable for the production of chitosan-containing oil-in-water emulsions. These are known per se, for example from EP-A 776657.

Chitosans with a degree of deacetylation> 25%, in particular> 55 to 99% [determined by ¹ H-NMR] are preferred according to the invention.

It is advantageous to choose chitosans with molecular weights between 10,000 and 1,000,000, especially those with molecular weights between 100,000 and 1,000,000. [determined by gel permeation chromatography].

The total amount of one or more hydrocolloids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen to be less than 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing agents Substances, fats, oils, Waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

An additional level of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants, the water-soluble or water-dispersible antioxidants being preferred.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosin, D-camosin, L-car- nosin and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, ß-carotene, ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyi, oleyl, γ - Linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. butioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine , Hexa-, hepthionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, Lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, gallic acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and Ubiquinol and its derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of the benzoin resin, Rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucolitol, camosin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyro phenone, uric acid and their derivatives, Mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugar) , Nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives are the antioxidants, it is advantageous to have their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the Wording to choose.

It is preferred according to the invention to add such active ingredient combinations containing complexing agents to the active ingredient combinations or cosmetic or dermatological preparations used according to the invention.

Complexing agents are known auxiliaries in cosmetology and medical galenics. The complexation of interfering metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others can, for example, prevent undesirable chemical reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

Complexing agents, in particular chelators, form complexes with metal atoms, which are metallacycles when one or more polybasic complexing agents, ie chelators, are present. Chelates are compounds in which a single ligand occupies more than one coordination point on a central atom. In this case, normally elongated connections are closed to form rings by complex formation via a metal atom or ion. The number of ligands bound depends on the coordination number of the central metal. A prerequisite for chelation is that the compound reacting with the metal contains two or more atomic groups which act as electron donors.

The complexing agent or complexing agents can advantageously be selected from the group of the usual compounds, preferably at least one substance from the group consisting of tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and its anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as, for example, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriesacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethylenaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1, 2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and their anions).

According to the invention, the complexing agent or complexing agents are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably at 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably at 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably at 0.1 - 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Formulation Examples:

Claims

claims

1. Post-foaming cosmetic gel on aqueous for delivery from an aerosol container, containing a) one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of acylamino acids and their salts, the phosphoric acid esters and salts, the ethoxylated and nonethoxylated sulfonic acids and salts, and the the ethoxylated and non-teethoxylated fatty acids with 12-22 carbon atoms in the form of their alkali soaps b) one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives. c) 5 to 300% by volume, based on the total volume of the preparation, of a gas (= primary blowing agent) selected from the group consisting of air, oxygen, nitrogen, helium, argon, nitrous oxide (N ₂ Q) and carbon dioxide (CO ₂ ) d) a secondary blowing agent selected from the group of aliphatic hydrocarbons, such as n-pentane, isopentane and isobutane, the preparation being in a container which is pressurized by the primary blowing agent so that the preparation opens when it is opened Container is set free.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used as pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives.

3. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate is used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivative.

4. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate (CAS number 113894- 92-1) is used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivative.