WO2008080702A2

WO2008080702A2 - Natural mineral powder in cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number: WO2008080702A2
Application number: PCT/EP2007/062579
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marcus Krueger; Dieter Goddinger
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2007-01-02
Filing date: 2007-11-20
Publication date: 2008-07-10
Also published as: DE102007001019A1; EP2061422A2; WO2008080702A3

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions, comprising an active ingredient combination with at least one mineral powder and furthermore at least one cationic and/or amphoteric and/or zwitterionic polymer. The invention furthermore relates to a method for the treatment of keratinic fibers having said active ingredient combination, and to the use of said active ingredient combination for reducing the oil buildup of the keratinic fibers and for reducing the formation of dandruff.

Description

"Natural mineral powders in cosmetic products"

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing natural mineral powders, in particular spade, volcanic earth, fang soil, peat or kaolin (clay). Furthermore, the invention comprises a synergistic combination of active substances containing these mineral powders and furthermore at least one cationic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymer and their use for the treatment of skin and hair, in particular for the cleansing and / or care of skin and hair.

The cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role.

Not least by the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming as well as by the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, following such treatments, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized, as well as the outer structure of the hair be smoothed, which is reflected by an increased gloss, or the hair to be protected from increased splits , It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair, increases the shine and reduces the splitting rate.

Furthermore, so-called combination preparations have recently been developed in order to reduce the expense of the usual multi-stage process, especially in the direct application by consumers.

These preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example for the cleaning of the hair, in addition to active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves an application step; At the same time, packaging costs are reduced because one product is less needed.

The available active ingredients both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally have a preferential effect on the hair surface. Thus, active ingredients are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combabilities or prevent splitting. Just as important as the external appearance of the hair, however, is the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers, which can be greatly influenced, in particular, by oxidative and reductive processes such as dyeing and perming.

However, the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently. There is therefore still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active substances for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye-containing and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional skin-care active ingredients which can be incorporated without problems into known formulations.

Furthermore, the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions is an extremely important criterion. In the relevant dermatological Professional journals, the reports of increasing incompatibilities in broad sections of the population are piling up on everyday products. These intolerances are based, among other things, on the changing consumer habits and the availability of the most exotic raw materials and foods in daily use. Consumers are therefore often advised, for example, in their diet of local products to serve. Therefore, a particularly great challenge for the cosmetics chemist is to develop cosmetics for the cleansing and care of skin and hair preferably from particularly compatible and already well-proven raw materials. Particular attention is paid to the specific selection of selected raw materials, which can fulfill multifunctional tasks in the formulation, so that as few ingredients as possible are contained in one formulation. The fewer ingredients in a formula, the better these ingredients are known, the lower the risk of intolerance. If, in exceptional cases, a hypersensitive reaction occurs, the allergist can very quickly determine the irritating ingredient for this consumer because of the few ingredients. The cosmetics are thus safer overall in use and in the compatibility for the consumer.

Wanted as nourishing agents therefore in particular already long used in cosmetic products ingredients, which are characterized by a particularly good tolerability. At the same time, however, the spectrum of action and the property profile of the cosmetic composition must not be adversely affected by the use of the mild and particularly well-tolerated ingredients as compared to the conventional compositions. This is further complicated by the fact that in the compositions according to the invention only so few ingredients are used as absolutely necessary.

Spades, for example, are already used in cosmetic compositions as thickeners for adjusting the rheology of the compositions due to their chemical structure as sheet silicates. Also fango, volcanic soil or peat has been used for cosmetic and medical treatments since ancient times. These natural raw materials are therefore also offered in the form of finely ground powders. Surprisingly, it has now been found that mineral powders, in particular spades, volcanic earth, fang, peat or very particularly preferably kaolin (alumina) are outstandingly suitable for use in cosmetic compositions with at least one cationic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymer to be used as a synergistically effective drug combination.

Surprisingly, it has been found that such an active ingredient combination is quite outstandingly suitable for producing cosmetic compositions with a significantly increased compatibility. Furthermore, due to synergistic effects between the ingredients, ingredients which are known to be particularly irritating, such as perfume oils or preservatives, can be completely or partially dispensed with in these compositions. Other significantly improved cosmetic effects include positively influencing the combability and feel of wet and dry hair, the shine of the hair, the stylability and durability of hairstyles, the restructuring of hair damaged by UV light and / or oxidative processes, the reduction of hair splitting, the reduction of damage to the hair by heat action such as blow-drying, increased deposition of desired on the hair substances such as anti-dandruff agents, polymers, vitamins, protein hydrolysates or other hair-rendering raw materials such as silicones, affecting the moisture retention capacity of the cosmetic compositions , and a preservative-promoting effect in the cosmetic compositions of the invention. An essential advantage of using the combination of active substances according to the invention, however, is the maintenance of the natural lipid coat and lipid content of the keratinic fibers even under the influence of surfactants or, in particular, under the influence of oxidative compositions on keratinic fibers.

The combination of active ingredients used according to the invention thus significantly improves synergistically the essential internal and external structural features and the strength as well as the elasticity and gloss of keratinic fibers. In whole In a special way, the combination of active substances according to the invention is effective in the case of a severely flaky scalp and hair with a heavy amount of hair. Both dandruff and greasing occur significantly significantly delayed in treated with the active compound combination keratinic fibers

According to the invention, keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.

A first subject of the present invention are therefore cosmetic compositions comprising a combination of active substances containing at least one mineral powder and furthermore at least one cationic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymer.

According to the invention, mineral powders are to be understood as meaning any naturally occurring mineral which can be derived from elements from the transition region between the metals and the non-metals in the periodic table of the elements. In particular, according to the invention, the term "mineral powders" is understood as meaning spades, mica, clays, kaolin, volcanic earth, fango earth and peat The finely divided nature of these powders according to the invention is such that these powders no longer exhibit any abrasive action below 500 microns, preferably below 300 microns, more preferably below 100 microns, most preferably below 50 microns and most preferably below 25 microns, with particle sizes smaller than 10 microns are most preferred.

The mineral powders according to the invention are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0, 3 to 7.5 wt.%, And most preferably used in an amount of 0.3 to 5 wt.%, Based in each case on the entire composition.

The further constituents of the compositions according to the invention, in particular the cationic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymers, are described in US Pat described in more detail below. In this case, the respective synergistic constituents of the active ingredient complex according to the invention are described in detail in the description of the respective raw material.

An ingredient which is used in almost all cosmetic compositions are surface-active substances. The surfactants essentially comprise two groups, the surfactants and the emulsifiers.

The term surfactants (E) is understood to mean surface-active substances which can form adsorption layers on upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution. Further definitions and properties of surfactants can be found in "H. -D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH., Weinheim, 1994". The following surfactants are exclusively known compounds. Regarding the structure and production of these substances, reference should be made to relevant reviews.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and Dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, Sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Examples of particularly suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C Atoms (soaps),

Ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

- Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, are long known, skin-friendly surfactants by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid), eg. B. by the method described in US 3,320,292, accessible. If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. As lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. B. consisting of coconut oil fatty acid available C ₁₂ - employing C-is-fatty acid fraction is obtained according to the invention preferably suitable C ₂ - C ₈ acyl isethionates. It is known to bring the sodium salts of C ₁₂ -C -acyl isethionates, similar to fatty acid-based soaps, into a suitable form for transport and application by kneading, pilking, extrusion, extrusion, cutting and bar pressing. In this way, needles, granules, noodles, bars and handy toilet soap pieces can be produced.

- Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C ₈ - C ₂₄ ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. thereby prepared that reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8 to 24 carbon atoms to the maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable

Sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12- 18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettsäuremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation. linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Blends of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),

O

Il

R ¹ (OCU ₂ CH ₂ X-O - p -OR ² (El-I)

OX

in the R ^{1 is} preferred for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E 1-11)

R ⁷ CO (AIkO) _n SO ₃ M (EI-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or

CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n stands for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation, as described in the DE-

OS 197 36 906.5 are described,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III) CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x - COR ⁸

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x H

I (E1 -III)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O), -SO ₃ X

in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE A1 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),

Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in EP 0 690 044,

Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product. These are prepared by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably of fatty acids having 12-18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali, ammonium, mono-, di- or trialkanolammonium salt. Such products are under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® has long been commercially available.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

In the compositions according to the invention it is particularly advantageous if mild anionic surfactants are used as anionic surfactants. In particular, by the mild anionic surfactants described below, the effect of the composition according to the invention is substantially increased.

The term "mild surfactants" is understood by the person skilled in the art as surfactants, which are found in the numerous test methods such as the HET-CAM test, the neutral redness test, the BUS model (bovine and skin model), the human skin model, the Zeize test, the Draize test, the Armflexwashtest or the Duhringkammertest etc. have proven to be mild surfactants.All in common with all test models is that in principle is measured against a standard to which the measurement results are obtained.In each of these test models there is a threshold below which is spoken of "mild surfactants". This threshold is for example in the HET-CAM test 1, 5. This means that all surfactants which have a relative irritation score of 1, 5 and smaller, for example, in the HET-CAM test, are known as "mild." The person skilled in the art knows that a surfactant gives a different score in each test model. For example, a cocamidopropyl betaine may even be classified as "irritating" in the HET-CAM test, while in the other test models it is more likely to be considered mild surfactants. A common and accepted classification defines anionic surfactants as mild if they have a relative irritation score of less than 1.5 in the HET-CAM test. According to the invention, however, such anionic surfactants are preferably used and understood as "mild anionic surfactants" which are classified as "mild" in all current test models. According to these test methods, the following anionic surfactants have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention:

Acyl lactylates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates,

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _X -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and their salts, acylsarcosides with 8 bis 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group are long known, skin-friendly surfactants, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. As lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. As obtainable from coconut fatty acid ₂ Ci - Ci ₈ - using fatty acid fraction is obtained according to the invention preferably suitable Ci ₂ - Cis acyl isethionates. It is known to bring the sodium salts of Ci ₂ - cis-acyl isethionates similar to fatty acid-based soaps by kneading, pilering, extrusion, extrusion, cutting and piece pressing in a suitable form for transport and use. In this way, needles, granules, noodles, bars and handy toilet soap pieces can be produced. Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C ₈ - C ₂₄ ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8 - 24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable

Sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12- 18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettsäuremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation.

Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),

O

Il

R ¹ (OCU ₂ CH ₂ X-O - p -OR ² (El-I)

OX

in the R ^{1 is} preferred for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical,

Glycerol ether sulfates such as monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III),

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x - COR ⁸

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x H

I (E1-III)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O), - SO ₃ X in the R ⁸ CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

amide ether carboxylic acids,

Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product. These are produced by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably fatty acids with 12-18 C Atoms are produced with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products, as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali, ammonium, mono-, di- or trialkanolammonium salt. Such products have long been commercially available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^®, glutamates and - aspartates.

If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. In the case of mild anionic surfactants with polyglycol ether units, it is preferred for the number of glycol ether groups to be from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15, more preferably from 2 to 12. mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether without restricted homologue distribution may for example be obtained even if the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether amounts to 4 to 12 and are selected as a counter ion Zn or Mg ions. Examples of these are the commercial product Texapon ASV ^®.

Of course, all mild and anionic surfactants mentioned heretofore and in the following can also be used in the form of their salts. Particularly suitable mild anionic surfactants are in each case in the form of the lithium, magnesium, zinc, sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group. The preferred ammonium ions are in addition to the ammonium ion as such monomethylammonium, dimethylammonium, trimethylammonium, monoethylammonium, diethylammonium, triethylammonium, monopropylammonium, dipropylammonium, tripropylammonium,

Monoisopropylammonium, diisopropylammonium, triisopropylammonium,

Monobutylammonium, dibutylammonium, tributylammonium,

Monoisobutylammonium, diisobutylammonium, triisobutylammonium, mono-t-butylammonium, di-t-butylammonium, tri-t-butylammonium ions and mixed Ammonium ions such as methyl ethyl ammonium, dimethyl ethyl ammonium, methyl diethyl ammonium, methyl propyl ammonium, methyl ethyl propyl ammonium, ethyl diisopropylammonium, ethyl dibutyl ammonium, Ethyl diisobutylammonium ions, etc. Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the other not explicitly mentioned ammonium ions of these alkanolammonium salts.

Other mild anionic surfactants which are most preferably used in the composition according to the invention are alkyl and / or

Alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of general formula (I),

RO- (G) _P (I) with the meaning

R ₂₂ Ce alkyl or C _{_6-22} alkenyl,

G glycoside unit derived from a sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, p number from 1 to 10.

Preferably, the mild anionic surfactant is selected from anionic alkyl polyglycosides, ether carboxylic acids, acyl isethionates, protein fatty acid condensates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, fatty acid amide ether sulfates, NRE fatty alcohol ether sulfates, acyl glutamates, and acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof.

Particular preference is given according to the invention to the anionic alkyl polyglucosides, such as alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates, ether carboxylic acids, acyl isethionates and also taurates and mixtures thereof.

Very particular preference is given to the use of anionic alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof. Most preferred is the use of carboxylated alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.

If mixtures of at least two different mild anionic surfactants are used as the mild anionic surfactant, the mixing ratio of these surfactants is at least 10: 1 to 1:10. Preferred is a mixing ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably from 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5, and most preferably from about 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1.5.

It has been found according to the invention that the use of mild anionic surfactants and in particular of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates in agents for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular in hair cleansing and conditioning agents a reduction in skin irritation leads. This leads, in particular when used with the active ingredient complex according to the invention from a mineral powder and a cationic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymer, to a significantly significantly delayed remanufacturing of the keratinic fibers with sebum. Furthermore, a renewed flaking takes place significantly delayed. Further, it has been found that in the use of such agents, the color stability of the coloration by the concomitant use of mild anionic surfactants, in particular the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, -phospate and / or -isoethionate is improved. In particular, this effect is achieved when used on damaged hair. Also, the wash fastness of dyed damaged hair is improved.

In addition, it has been found according to the invention that when mild anionic surfactants are used, in particular the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates, in cleaning and care agents when applying these agents, the foaming is considerably improved , The foam is characterized in particular by a fine-pored, dense, creamy appearance. The foam is described as pleasantly soft and supple and easy to spread. At the same time, the foam is firm and well palpable. He shows a certain stamina and does not run spontaneously but only after a few minutes. This favors the already described easy spreadability of the foam. These effects occur in the compositions of the invention in particular by the combination with cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.

In the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides at least one hydroxyl group is preferably in at least one of the radicals G by -O-Ci.- | _2- alkenyl-COOM, -OSO ₃ M, -OP (O) (OM) ₂ or -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SO ₃ M with M = H, alkali metal, NH ₄ or one of the aforementioned counterions such as Zn, Mg, alkanolammonium replaced.

In this case, an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate is particularly preferably used in which -O-Ci.i ₂ -alkylene COOM -O (CH ₂ -) _n COOM with M = H, Na or K and n = 1 to 3 means. Particularly preferably, the radical is 0-CH ₂ -COONa.

Particular preference is given to using an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate in which the alkyl radical is a lauryl radical. Especially preferred is a Laurylglucosidcarboxylat as it is available as Plantapon ^® LCG Cognis Germany.

In the alkyl glycosides of the general formula (I), the glycoside units G are preferably derived from aldoses or ketoses.

Preferably, because of the better reactivity, the reducing saccharides, the aldoses, are used. Among the aldoses, glucose is particularly suitable for their easy accessibility and technical availability. The alkylglycosides which are particularly preferably used as starting materials are therefore the alkylglucosides.

The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization, ie the distribution of monoglycerides and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a given compound must always be an integer, and above all the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyl glycoside is an analytic calculated arithmetic size, which is usually a fractional number. Preferably, alkyl glycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are used. Particularly preferred are those Alkyl glycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.5, and in particular between 1, 1, and 1, 4.

The alkyl radical R is derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and technical fractions which, in addition to the saturated alcohols mentioned, may also contain portions of unsaturated alcohols and which are based on natural fats and oils, for example palm oil, palm kernel oil, Coconut oil or beef tallow are obtained. The use of technical coconut oil is particularly preferred here.

In addition to the fatty alcohols mentioned, the alkyl glycosides can also be derived from synthetic primary alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the so-called oxo alcohols, which have a proportion of 5 to 40% by weight of branched isomers.

Particularly preferred alkyl radicals are those having 8/10, 12/14, 8 to 16, 12 to 16 or 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Mixtures of the alkyl radicals result in a production starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.

Processes for the preparation of these alkyl glycosides have been known to the skilled person for a long time.

The alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, phosphates, sulfates or isethionates used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes. The carboxylates are prepared, for example, by reacting the alkyloligoglycosides with salts of chlorocarboxylic acids in the presence of bases. For example, it can be reacted with 2-chloroacetic acid sodium salt in the presence of NaOH. In the reaction, both the hydroxyl groups in the ring and the -CH ₂ -OH group can be reacted. The degree of conversion depends inter alia on the stoichiometry of the feedstock. Preferably, the alkyl oligoglycosides are reacted at least on the -CH ₂ -OH group, optionally with a One or more of the hydroxyl groups on the ring can be reacted.

Other hydroxyl groups may also be etherified, for example.

The preparation of the isethionates is also carried out by known methods of the prior art. It is also known that the products can be used for hair and body care. In particular, aqueous detergent mixtures are described which contain alkyloligoglycoside isethionates and, for example, further anionic surfactants.

The preparation of the sulfates is also carried out by known methods. Furthermore, mixtures of APG sulphates with i.a. Alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates and other ingredients described. It is stated that the surfactant mixtures can be used in products that are used for washing, dyeing, rippling or rinsing hair.

The preparation of the sulfates is also carried out according to the prior art. For example, the corresponding alkyl glycoside can be reacted with gaseous sulfur trioxide or with sulfuric acid followed by neutralization. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations containing the alkyloligoglycoside sulfates are also known.

Finally, detergent mixtures of alkyl oligoglycoside sulfates and alkyl ether phosphates are described which can be used, for example, in hair rinses, hair dyes or hair waving agents.

The mild anionic surfactants used according to the invention and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates are used in an amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt .-% and most preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt.% The mild anionic surfactants used and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates can completely or partially replace the customary anionic surfactants in these compositions. Thus, the mild anionic surfactants according to the invention can be used as the sole anionic surfactant in the compositions, or mixtures of these mild anionic surfactants can be used with each other or with other conventional anionic surfactants. These conventional anionic surfactants are explained in more detail later. For example, the mild anionic surfactants and other anionic surfactants may be present in a weight ratio ranging from 5: 0.05 to 1: 2, more preferably 3: 0.5 to 1: 2, especially 2.5: 0.5 to 1: 1 , 5, and most preferably 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1.5.

The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants show a synergistic effect with the active ingredient combination according to the invention. This synergistic effect may be due to an increased deposition of the two active ingredients on the surface of the skin and hair, which manifests itself in the overall cosmetic appearance of the skin and hair. The particular charge effects of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants seem to play a role here. For example, the hair is easier to comb, easier to style both in the dry and in the wet state and shows more shine and a pleasant grip.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO * ^" 'or -SO ₃ '^"'group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are meant those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C - contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and alkyl or acyl group of forming inner salts - C ₂₄ are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino-propionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C ₂ - C ₈ - sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polyethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, the Alkylphenolpolyglykolether or the Alkylpolypropylenglykolether, or mixed Alyklphenolpolyether, with a methyl or C ₂ - C _O - alkyl end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 mol ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),

C ₂ -C ₃ o-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (E4-I)

R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (E4-I)

in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² is hydrogen or methyl, R ³ is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,

Amine oxides,

Hydroxymix ethers, as described for example in DE-OS 19738866,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to formula (E4-II),

R ⁴ O- [G] _P (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature is here on the review by Biermann et al. in Starch / Stärke 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) and J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW Journal Heft 8, 598 (1995).

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be an integer, and Here, especially the values p = 1 to 6 can assume, the value p for a certain alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetical variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length of C ₈ -C ₀ (DP = 1 to 3), which are obtained as first runnings in the separation of technical Cs-C-is-coconut fatty alcohol with a content of less than 6 wt .-% Ci ₂ - Alcohol can be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical Cg / n-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof which may be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Ci ₂ / i ₄ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides, a nonionic surfactant of formula (E4-III), R ⁶

IR ⁵ CO-N- [Z] (E4-III)

R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their preparation, reference is made to US Pat. Nos. 1,985,424, 2,016,962 and 2,703,798, and International Patent Application WO 92/06984. An overview of this topic by H.Kelkenberg can be found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988). Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV):

R ⁷ CO- (NR ⁸ ) -CH ₂ - [CH (OH) J ₄ -CH ₂ OH (E4-IV)

Glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ⁷ CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid are preferably used as the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides , Stearic acid, isostearic acid, Oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The sugar surfactants may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.

Other typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formalin, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.

As preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have proven. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When so-called "oxo-alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred at the Producing these substances from native plant or animal raw materials, so as to obtain substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

As additives for further improving the creaminess of the foam and the feel on the skin during and after use, nonionic surfactants have also proven useful, the additional use of which may be recommended for preparing the compositions according to the invention. Particular preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention having an additional content of 0.1 - 20 wt .-% of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of 2-18. Such products can be prepared by addition of ethylene oxide to z. B. fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms or to glycerol or sorbitan fatty acid partial ester based on Ci ₂ -Ci ₈ fatty acids or produced on fatty acid alkanolamides. The HLB value means the proportion of hydrophilic groups, eg. As to glycol ether or polyol groups based on the total molecule and it is calculated by the relationship

HLB = 1/5 x (100 wt.% L),

where wt .-% L of the proportion by weight of lipophilic groups, ie z. B. to alkyl or acyl groups having 6-30 carbon atoms in the surfactant molecule represents. The cationic surfactants (E5) form the last group of surfactants. Cationic surfactants are characterized as part of the active ingredient complex according to the invention in that, like the amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, they contribute to a distinctly improved cosmetic appearance of the skin and hair. The cationic charge ensures a good bond to the rather negatively charged surfaces, especially of damaged hair or stressed skin. On the long fat residues of these molecular structures, in turn, more hydrophobically structured active ingredients can accumulate. As a result, an overall increased deposition of care substances on the surface of skin and hair is effected. For example, the hair is easier to comb, easier to style both in the dry and in the wet state and shows more shine and a pleasant grip. Cationic surfactants (E5) are generally derived from ammonium ions and have a structure (NR ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ) ⁺ with a correspondingly negatively charged counterion. Such cationic ammonium compounds are well known to those skilled in the art. Further cationic surfactants are, for example, the esterquats or the imidazolium compounds. Cationic surfactants (E5) of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines are particularly preferably used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.

According to the invention, cationic compounds containing behenyl radicals, in particular the substances known under the name of behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide), can be used with particular preference. Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ^® KDMP (Clariant).

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-Palmitoyloxy- ethyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats ,

As further cationic surfactants, the agents of the invention may comprise at least one quaternary imidazoline compound, i. a compound having a positively charged imidazoline ring. The formula (E5-V) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

RC

ormel (E5-V)

The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of formula (E5-V) for R each contain the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to compounds having a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms and very particularly preferably having at least 20 carbon atoms. A very particularly preferred compound of the formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A commercial product of this chain length is known, for example, under the name Quaternium-91. In of the formula (E5-V) is shown as a counterion methosulfate. However, according to the invention, the counterions also include the halides, such as chloride, fluoride, bromide, or else phosphates.

The imidazolines of the formula (E5-V) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7 , 5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A according to the invention particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 stearamidopropyldimethylamine commercially available dimethylamine. The alkylamidoamines can be present both as such and converted by protonation in accordance acid solution into a quaternary compound in the composition, they Of course, they can also be used as a permanent quaternary compound in the compositions according to the invention. Examples of permanently quaternized amidoamines include the raw materials with the trade name Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Lanoquat ^® DES-50 or Empigen CSC.

The cationic surfactants (E5) are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Cationic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention. Anionic surfactants are used in particular when the compositions according to the invention are to be used as shampoos. The surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,

Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H. -D. Dörfler, Grenzflächen- and Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH., Weinheim, 1994". Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

- Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with on-gomerisierungsgrade of 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

- sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hy- droxystearat (Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product)

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

Particularly advantageous is also an addition of a per se known emulsifier of the water-in-oil type in an amount of about 1 - 5 wt .-% proved. This is a mixed ester which is a condensation product of a pentaerythritol di-fatty acid ester and a citric acid di-fatty alcohol ester, as described in greater detail in DE-PS 1 655 574. The addition of such mixed esters achieves a particularly creamy, fine-bubble foam and a pleasant feel on the skin when using the body cleanser.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, in accordance with the methods described in the Römpp Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

Emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the so-called mild emulsifiers. The mildness of emulsifiers can be determined by various methods. For example, the neutral red test, the HET-CAM test, the human skin model or the so-called BUS (bovine udder skin) model are used for this purpose. What is common to all test methods is that it is principally measured against a standard to which the results are referred.

According to these test methods, the following preferred emulsifiers have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention:

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _X -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

- Acylsarcoside having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I), monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III),

Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in EP 0 690 044,

Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product,

- zwitterionic surfactants (E2), Ampholytic surfactants (E3),

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to the formula (E4-

H).

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type according to

Formula (E4-III),

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis),

Amine oxides,

Hydroxymix ethers, as described for example in DE-OS 19738866,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),

esterquats

Alkylamidoamines and quaternized alkylamidoamines.

Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, - Sterols, Sterols is a group of steroids that carry a hydroxyl group at C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated from animal tissue (zoosterols) as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

In the preferred case according to the invention that the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions should be improved, the particularly mild emulsifiers are preferably used in the compositions. In these cases, the alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates are used in amounts of less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight and more preferably less than 2.5% by weight. Most preferably, these compositions are free of alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates. "Free from" in this context means that these ingredients are not used in any way, but it is possible that they may be introduced into the composition by other ingredients, such as the use of silicone emulsions, so "free from" preferably means smaller than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight.

It is known that oil-in-water emulsions, hereafter called O / W emulsions, prepared and stabilized with nonionic emulsifiers undergo phase inversion upon heating, ie, at higher temperatures, the outer, aqueous phase becomes the inner phase can be. This process is usually reversible, that is, that re-forms the original emulsion type on cooling. It is also known that the location of the phase inversion temperature (PIT) depends on many factors, for example the type and phase volume of the oil component, of the hydrophilicity and the structure of the emulsifier or the composition of the emulsifier system. Furthermore, it is known that emulsions prepared at or slightly below the phase inversion temperature are characterized by particular stability and fineness, while those prepared above the phase inversion temperature are less finely divided. Emulsions that undergo phase inversion at a certain temperature are called PIT emulsions. These PIT emulsions may be preferred according to the invention, because they contain significantly less emulsifier than conventional non-PIT emulsions due to the just sufficient amount of emulsifier. Therefore, they are not only particularly inexpensive, but also very mild and gentle on the skin and hair. If ionic surfactants are also used as emulsifiers in the PIT emulsions, these are added to the PIT emulsion more preferably only after the preparation of the PIT emulsion during the cooling process.

The synergists of the active ingredient combination according to the invention in the compositions according to the invention are very particularly cationic and amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymers. These are a mandatory constituent of the active ingredient complex according to the invention. Polymers are used in cosmetic compositions for a variety of reasons. In this case, nonionic polymers are used.

In the following some examples of particularly preferred polymers are described. The distinction of the polymers which can be used according to the invention can be made on the basis of the charges of the polymers and / or because of their particularly pronounced properties in terms of their application. The term "particularly distinctive features" reflects the fact that polymers generally combine several properties in one molecule, but often one of the properties is particularly prominent and is decisive for the selection of this particular polymer.

First, polymers will be described based on their respective charges. Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers, which usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationically.

The cationic polymers according to the invention can be both firming and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or scavenging polymers as well as polymers with conditioning and / or thickening properties. The suitable cationic polymers are preferably hair-setting and / or hair-conditioning polymers. By polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be cationic or amphoteric charged.

These two groups of polymers share a potentially cationic charge. Both cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers can therefore be characterized by their cationic charge density. The polymers of the invention are characterized by a charge density of at least 1 to 7 meq / g. A charge density of at least 2 to 7 meq / g is preferred. Particularly preferred is a charge density of at least equal to 3meq / g to 7 meq / g.

Another characteristic feature of the polymers according to the invention is their molecular weight. Below the molecular weight of the respective polymer is the molecular weight understood, which the manufacturer indicates in the corresponding data sheets measured by its method. For the selection of a suitable polymer, a molecular weight of at least 50,000 g / u has proven to be suitable according to the invention. Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 100,000 g / u have proven to be particularly suitable. Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 1000,000 g / u are very particularly suitable.

The deposition of polymers of surfactant solutions on the surface of keratinic fibers is an adsorption process. This adsorption process is not fully understood until today. The previously described selection of suitable polymers already takes place in the prior art according to the previously described criteria of charge density or molecular weight.

If one now selects the polymers according to the prior art, then those polymers which meet both criteria should actually be the most suitable. This is not the case.

All known physical chemistry adsorption equations contain proportionality constants which are related to the degree of coverage of the surface. Without knowing the exact scientific background, however, the occupancy rate of the surface of keratinic fibers could be related to an adsorption probability of the polymers according to the invention. Defining the adsorption probability as the product of the cationic charge density and the molecular weight, this product can be used for the targeted selection of suitable inventive polymers.

Suitable polymers have a value of greater than 100,000 for the product of cationic charge density and molecular weight. Particularly suitable are polymers which have a value of at least 200,000 for this product. Especially suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value greater than 250,000. Most suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value of at least 1,000,000. Preference is given to those polymers which have sufficient solubility in water or alcohol to completely dissolve in the composition according to the invention when applied to wet to wet hair.

The cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, for example

Trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium,

Dialkyl diallyl ammonium and quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

Examples of suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride A / inylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-1 1), and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers, for example Silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80). Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ^® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ^® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.

Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

R ¹

I

- [CH ₂ -CI _n X ^" (G1 -I)

I

CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _m -N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers preferably, for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R ¹ is a methyl group

R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically acceptable counter ions X ^"include halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preferred are halide ions, particularly chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (3V Sigma) in trade. The crosslinking can, if desired, be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)), and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) as the non-ionic monomer, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-Ci _-4 alkyl ester and methacrylic acid-Ci- ₄ -alkyl. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

Suitable cationic silicone compounds preferably have either at least one amino group or at least one ammonium group. Suitable silicone polymers with amino groups are known under the INCI name Amodimethicone. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups may be side or terminal. The N-containing silicone cationic polymer of the present invention may preferably be selected from the group comprising siloxane polymers having at least one amino group, siloxane polymers having at least one terminal amino group, amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and / or aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer. Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known by the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes having two terminal aminoalkyl groups.

According to the invention, preference is given to the use of an aminosiloxane corresponding to the following general formula (G1-II),

wherein R = OH or CH ₃ , X = alkyl group having 1 to 4 C atoms, preferably propyl or isopropyl and A, B and C = copolymer units which can form tactical and / or atactic polymer blocks are. Amodimethicone, amodimethicone-containing emulsions or fluids are most preferred according to the invention. Emulsions which can preferably be used according to the invention are Dow Corning® 949, which is a cationic emulsion comprising amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 939, which is an emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 929, which is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, talc trimonium chloride and nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning® 7224 or 1401 based on trimethylsilylamodimethicone, octoxynol-40, isolaureth-6 and glycol; Dow Corning® 2-8194 microemulsion (26%) based on an amine-functionalized silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8177 microemulsion (12%) based on an amine-functionalized silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8566 Amino Fluid based on an amine-functionalized polydimethylsiloxane; available from Dow Corning.

The molecular weight of the aminosilicones is preferably between 500 and 100,000. The amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, more preferably from 01 to 0.5.

The silicone as a cationic polymer according to the invention is used in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight .% used.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of

Cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives.

Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (G1-III) GOB-N + R _a R _b R _c X ^"

G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;

B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene,

Polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;

R ₃ , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of C atoms in

R ₃ , Rb and R _{c is} preferably at most 20;

X ^" is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride. A cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ^® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees. Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol. Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L and 200. The commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also used by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.

Another particularly suitable cationic natural polymer is hydrocolloids of the chitosan type. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight, which contain the - idealized - monomer unit (I):

^ CH ₂ OH HO NH ₂

I II

CH-O CH-CH

- [- HC1 CH-O-CH CH-O-] "-

CH-CH CH-O

I i

HO NH ₂ CH ₂ OH

Unlike most hydrocolloids that are negatively charged at biological pH levels, chitosans are cationic biopolymers under these conditions.

The positively charged chitosans can interact with oppositely charged surfaces and are therefore used in cosmetic hair and hair Toiletries also used as a film former. In addition to the chitosans are also quaternized, alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, optionally also in microcrystalline form into consideration. The insert can also be in the form of aqueous gels having a solids content in the range of 1 to 5 wt .-%.

For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as inexpensive raw materials in large quantities. The chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, particularly low-ash cationic biopolymers are used which are obtained by reacting

(a) treating fresh crustacean shells with dilute aqueous mineral acid,

(b) treating the resulting demineralized first intermediate with aqueous alkali hydroxide solution,

(c) again treating the resulting slightly deproteinized second intermediate with dilute aqueous mineral acid,

(d) finally treating the resulting decalcified third intermediate with concentrated aqueous caustic while deacetylating to a level of from 0.05 to 0.5, more preferably from 0.15 to 0.25 mole of acetamide per mole of monomer unit, and

(e) optionally subjected to a pressure / temperature post-treatment to adjust the viscosity.

The chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins. The molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol. For example, a low molecular weight chitosan having a molecular weight of from 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol is suitable. Preferably, however, the molecular weight is above 100,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol. Of the Deacetylation degree is preferably 10 to 99%, particularly preferably 60 to 99%.

The chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization of the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups. As a neutralizing agent, it is possible in principle to use all cosmetically acceptable inorganic or organic acids such as, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and the like, of which the pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid is particularly preferred.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 80%. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. The contained chitosan has a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 85%. Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutylchitosan. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

- Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosme- dia ^® guar and Jaguar ^® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® products 550 (Dimethyldiallylammoni- trimethylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

- as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,

- Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as a third monomer building commercially available, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 101 1, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 are available.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. Preference is given, for example, to chitosan and its derivatives, as used, for example, under the trade names Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein,

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxy Propyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

The cationic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid is, which is 1 1-80 commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ^®.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 Company SEPPIC included. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci ₃ -C ₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene cross-linked methyl vinyl ether-maleic acid copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Another very particularly preferred group of polymers are polyurethanes. The polyurethanes consist of at least two different monomer types, a compound (V1) having at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per molecule and a di- or polyisocyanate (V2).

The compounds (V1) may be, for example, diols, triols, diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols. The compounds with more than 2 active hydrogen atoms are usually only in small amounts in Used in combination with a large excess of compounds with 2 active hydrogen atoms.

Examples of compounds (V1) are ethylene glycol, 1, 2 and 1, 3-propylene glycol, butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and -Propylenglykole, copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, Ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1, 4-diaminobutane, hexamethylenediamine and α, ω-diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides.

Polyurethanes in which the compounds (V1) are diols, triols and polyetherols may be preferred according to the invention. In particular, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having molecular weights between 200 and 3000, in particular between 1600 and 2500, have proven to be particularly suitable in individual cases.

Polyesterols are usually obtained by modifying the compound (V1) with dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and adipic acid.

As compounds (V2) predominantly hexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-methylenedi (phenyl isocyanate) and in particular

Isophorone diisocyanate used.

Furthermore, the polyurethanes used in the invention may contain other building blocks such as diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids. Dialkylolcarboxylic acids such as dimethylolpropionic acid are particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids. With regard to the further building blocks, there is no fundamental restriction as to whether they are nonionic, anionic or cationic building blocks.

For further information on the construction and production of polyurethanes, reference is expressly made to the articles in the relevant reviews such as Römpps Chemie-Lexikon and Ullmanns Enzyklopädie der technischen Chemie. Polyurethanes which can be characterized as follows have proven particularly suitable according to the invention in many cases.

- Only aliphatic groups in the molecule

- no free isocyanate groups in the molecule

- Polyether and polyester polyurethanes

- anionic groups in the molecule.

It has also proved advantageous in some cases when the polyurethane is not dissolved in the system but is stably dispersed.

Furthermore, it has proved to be advantageous for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention, when the polyurethanes were not mixed directly with the other components, but introduced in the form of aqueous dispersions. Such dispersions usually have a solids content of about 20-50%, in particular about 35-45% and are also commercially available.

An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ^® PUR (BASF).

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO contain ^" - or -SO ₃ ^" groups, and summarizes those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

Amphoteric polymers, like the cationic polymers, are most preferred polymers.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, which is a copolymer of tert.-butylamino ethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^H (G3-I)

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{H is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and

(b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II),

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II)

in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{H is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion ; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z is an NH group or Dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom.

The monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylating reagents. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.

Advantageously, those monomers of the formula (G3-I) are used which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of the formula (G3-I) in which R, R ^ and R ^ are methyl groups.

The acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of the formula (G3-I).

Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (G3-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.

The zwitterionic polymers which can be used according to the invention are prepared from monomers of the formulas (G3-I) and (G3-II) by polymerization processes known per se. Further details of the polymerization process can be found in the relevant specialist literature.

Be particularly effective, such polymers have been found in which the monomers of the formula (G3-I) were present in excess over the monomers of formula (G3-II). It is therefore preferred according to the invention to use those polymers which consist of monomers of the formula (G3-I) and the monomers of the formula (G3-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular 75:25 to 95 : 5, persist. The amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2,104,091, European Patent Application 47,714, European Offenlegungsschrift 217,274, European Offenlegungsschrift 283,817 and German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369. Further suitable zwitterionic polymers are Methacroylethylbetain / methacrylate copolymers, which are commercially available under the name Amersette ^® (AMERCHOL).

In another embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

VinylpyrrolidonA ynyl ester copolymers, such as for example, under the trade name Luviskol ^® (BASF) /. Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules).

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch; shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ^° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydi- alkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups.

Glycosidically substituted silicones.

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

According to the invention, the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders. Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Such a method is known, for example, from EP 466 986 B1. Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example, under the trade name Polytrap ^® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning) in the trade. Other polymer powders, for example based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) having a particle size of 2 - (10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m ² / g under the trade name Orgasol ^® 2002 DU Nat Cos Atochem SA, Paris). Further spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene Powder (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO, or else silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or even spherical cellulose powders.

The polymer powders described above are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Polymers, regardless of their chemical structure and charge, can also be characterized by their function in cosmetic compositions. The description of the polymers according to their function in the compositions according to the invention does not necessarily correspond to an evaluation or significance of these polymers. Rather, all polymers are in principle to be considered equivalent for use in the compositions of the invention, although some of these polymers may be preferred. Furthermore, due to the polyfunctionality of polymers, some polymers can be found in several descriptions with different effects. Polymers which can bring about several desired effects are therefore particularly preferred for use in the compositions according to the invention.

The choice of the suitable polymer also depends on the use of the composition according to the invention. For example, a film-forming cationic or amphoteric polymer is particularly preferably selected if the composition is to be used as a styling agent or setting agent.

Since polymers are often multifunctional, their functions can not always be clearly and clearly distinguished from each other. This applies in particular to film-forming and setting polymers. Nevertheless, some film-forming polymers will be described by way of example. However, it is explicitly stated at this point that both film-forming and fixing polymers are essential in the context of the present invention. Since both properties are not completely independent of each other, the term "setting polymers" always "film-forming polymers" understood and vice versa.

Among the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers is the film formation. Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to those polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the composition according to the invention. Because of their pronounced film formation properties, these polymers are very particularly preferred in the compositions of the invention. The use of at least one of these polymers is therefore also very particularly preferred according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers are also understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair. The film-forming polymers may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.

Suitable synthetic, film-forming, hair-setting polymers are homopolymers or copolymers made up of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

Suitable examples are homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Further suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ^® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or Sepigel ^® 305 by the company Seppic be distributed; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, sold under the trade names Ucon® Union Carbide. Particularly preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers. Suitable natural film-forming polymers include cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold, for example, under the trade name Nisso Sl ^® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.

Examples of common film formers are Abies Balsamea (Balsam Canada) Resin, Acetylenediurea / Formaldehyde / Tosylamide Crosspolymer, Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer , Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Behenyl Methacrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethiconol Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylates / HEMA / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhe xyl Acrylates / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Propyl Trimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / TDI / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Crosspolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Acrylates / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylates / Diacetones Acrylamide / Hydroxypropyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Adipic Acid / CHDM / MA / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylene Glycol / Glycerol Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dilinoleic Acid / Hexylene Glycol Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic

Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Fumaric Acid / Phthalic Acid / Tricyclodecane Dimethanol Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Albumen, AIIyI Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharide, Aminoethyl Acrylate Phosphate / Acrylate Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylate / Acrylamide Copolymer,

Aminoethylpropanediol-AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Alginates, Ammonium Polyacrylates, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylates Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer,

Benzoguanamine / Formaldehyde / Melamine Crosspolymer, Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Pentaerythritol / Neopentyl Glycol / Palmitic Acid Copolymer, Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amine Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-PPG-15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi OiI Copolymer, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid / HDI Copolymer, Butoxy Chitosan, Butyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Styrene Copolymer, Butylated Polyoxymethylene Urea, Butylated PVP, Butyl Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Trimethylolethane Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Butylethylpropanediol Dimer Dilinoleate, Butyl Methacrylate / DMAPA

Acrylates / Vinylacetamide Crosspolymer, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, C5-6 Alkanes / Cycloalkanes / Terpene Copolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone / Polycyclohexene Oxide Crosspolymer , C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitosan Succinamide, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer, Cellulose Acetates, Cellulose Acetate Butyrate, Cellulose Acetate Propionate, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Cetearyl DimethiconeA / inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chitosan, Chitosan Adipate, Chitosan Ascorbate, Chitosan Formats, Chitosan Glycolate, Chitosan Lactate, Chitosan PCA, Chitosan Salicylate, Chitosan Succinamide, C5 -6 Olefin / C8-10 Naphtha Olefin Copolymer, Collodion, Copaifera Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin, Copal, Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Com Starch Modified, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, DEA Styrene / Acrylates / DVB copolymer, dibutylhexyl IPDI, didecyltetradecyl IPDI, diethylene glycolamine / epichlorohydrin / piperazine copolymer, diethylhexyl IPDI,

Diglycol / CHDM / isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Diglycol / Isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine / IPDI Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Glycol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic Acid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleyl Alcohol / IPDI Copolymer, Dimethicone PEG-8 Polyacrylates , Dimethicone A / inyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosspolymer, dimethiconol / IPDI copolymer,

Dimethylamine / Ethylene Diamine / Epichlorohydrin Copolymer, Dioctyldecyl IPDI, Dioctyldodecyl IPDI, Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethylcellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylene / Calcium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / Magnesium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Methacrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylene / Zinc Acrylate Copolymer, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract, Fibroin / PEG-40 / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Flexible Collodion , Formaldehyde / melamine / tosylamide copolymer, galactoarabinane, glycereth-7 hydroxystearate / IPDI copolymer, glycerol / MA / rosin acid Copolymer, Glycerin / Phthalic Acid Copolymer, Glycerol / Phthalic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glycerol / Succinic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glyceryl Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Glyceryl Undecyl Dimethicone, Glycidyl C8-1 1 Acidate / Glycerol / Phthalic Anhydride Copolymer , Glycol Rosinate, Gutta Percha, Hexylene Glycol / Neopentyl Glycol / Adipic Acid / SMDI / DMPA Copolymer, Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi OiI Copolymer, Hydrogenated Caprylyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Decyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Hexyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Lauryl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Rosin, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Chitosan, Hydrolyzed Gadidae Protein, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl / Methoxyethyl Acrylates / Butyl Acrylate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl / Methoxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Acetates / Succina Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isomerized Linoleic Acid, Isophorone Diamine / Cyclohexylamine / Isophthalic Acid / Azelaic Acid Copolymer,

Isophorone Diamine / Isophthalic Acid / Pentaerythritol Copolymer, Isophorone Diamine / Isophthalic Acid / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, 4,4'-Isopropylidenediphenol / Epichlorohydrin Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate / VA Copolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Maltodextrin, Mannan, MeNa Azadirachta Conditioned Media / Culture, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Propyltrimethoxysilane, Methoxypolyoxymethylene Melamine, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Methacrylate / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer , Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Myroxylon Balsamum (Balsam ToIu) Resin, Myroxylon Pereirae (Balsam Peru) Resin, Nitrocellulose, Nylon 12/6/66 Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Oxymethylene / Melamine copolymer , Palmitic Acid / Pentaerythritol / Stearic Acid / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25/25 Dimethicone / Acrylate Copolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, Pentaerythritol / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Cyclohexane Dicarboxylate, Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, Phthalic Acid Denatured With Epoxy Resin Alkyd Resin, Phthalic Anhydride / Adipic Acid / Castor Oil / Neopentyl Glycol / PEG-3 / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Glycerin Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Glycerol / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Trimellitic Anhydride / Glycol Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentenes copolymer,

Piperylenes / butenes / pentenes / pentadiene copolymer, pistacia lentiscus (mastic) gum, polianthes tuberosa extract, polyacrylamides, polyacrylamidomethylpropanes, sulfonic acid, polyacrylates-1, polyacrylates-2, polyacrylates-5, polyacrylates-6, polyacrylic acid, polyamides-1, polybeta Alanine, Polybeta-Alanine / Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutyl Acrylate, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polychlorotrifluoroethylene, Polydiethylene Glycol Adipate / IPDI Copolymer, Polydimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate, Polyester-1, Polyester-2, Polyester-3, Polyethylacrylate, Polyethylene, Polyethylene Naphthalate, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polyethylglutamates, polyethylmethacrylates, polyglucuronic acid, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearates / IPDI copolymer, polyisobutenes, polylysines, polymethacrylamides, polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium methosulfates, polymethacrylic acid, polymethyl acrylates, polymethylglutamates, polymethyl methacrylates, polyoxyisobutylenes / methylene urea copolymer, polyoxymethylene melamines, polypentaerythrityl Terephthalates, polypentenes, polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, poly-p-phenylenes terephthalamides, polyphosphorylcholines glycol acrylates,

Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5,

Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9,

Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-1 1, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13,

Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17,

Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22,

Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29,

Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33,

Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37,

Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45,

Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-51, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-57, Polyquaternium-61, Polysilicone-6, Polysilicone-8, Polysilicone-1 1, Polysilicone-14, Polystyrene, Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-2, Polyurethane-4 , Polyurethanes-5, polyurethanes-6, polyurethanes-7, polyurethanes-8, polyurethanes-10, polyurethanes-1 1, polyurethanes-12, polyurethanes-13, polyvinyl acetal, diethylaminoacetates, polyvinyl acetates, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl butyral, polyvinyl caprolactam, polyvinyl chlorides , Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Isobutyl Ether, Polyvinyl Laurate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Polyvinyl Stearyl Ether, Potassium Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Potassium Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Potassium Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-26 / HDI Copolymer, PPG-17 / IPDI / DMPA Copolymer, PPG-12 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-7 / Succinic Acid Copol ymer, PPG-26 / TDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Tocophereth-30, PPG-20 Tocophereth-50, Propylene Glycol Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Pseudotsuga Menziesii (Balsam Oregon) Resin, Pullulan, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer , PVP, Montmorillonite PVP, PVP / VA / ltaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Quaternium-22, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin, Rubber Latex, Serum Albumin, Shellac, Sodium Acrylates / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer , Sodium Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium DVB / Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium MA / Diisobutylene Copolymer, Sodium MA / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium PG-Propyldimethicone Thiosulfate Copolymer , Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Sodium Styrene / Acrylate Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylate / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Starch / Acrylate / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Diethylaminoethyl Ether, Stearamidopropyl Dimethicone, Steareth -10 AIIyI Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Stearoyl Epoxy Resin, Stearyl HDI / PEG-50 Copolymer, Stearyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Styrax Benzoin Gum, Styrene / Acrylates / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer, styrene / acrylate copolymer, styrene / allyl benzoate copolymer, styrene / DVB crosspolymer, styrene / isoprene copolymer, styrene / MA copolymer, styrene / methacrylamide / acrylate copolymer, styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer, styrene / VA copolymer, styrene A / P copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate / methyl methacrylate copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate copolymer, TEA acrylate / acrylonitrogen copolymer, TEA Diricinoleate, TEA Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Terephthalic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Tetradecyloctadecyl Behenate, Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate, Tetradecyloctadecyl Stearate, Titanium Isostearate, Tosylamide / Epoxy Resin, Tosylamide / Formaldehyde Resin, Tricontanyl PVP, Triethylene Glycol Rosinate, Trimethylol Propane Cyclohexene Dicarboxylate, Trime thylolpropane triacrylate, trimethylpentanediol / isophthalic acid / trimellitic anhydride copolymer,

Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, Triticum Vulgaris (Wheat) Protein, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, VA / Butyl Maleate / Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl

Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / Crotonic Acid / PEG-20M Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Isobutyl Maleate / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Chloride Copolymer, Vinyl Acetates, Vinylamines / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Vinyl Chloride / Vinyl Laurate Copolymer, VP / Dimethiconyl Acrylates / Polycarbamyl / Polyglycol Ester, VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer,

VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer, VP / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VP / VA copolymer, welan gum, yeast beta-glucan, yeast polysaccharides, zein.

Polymers which fix the hair, the so-called firming polymers, contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume, the hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. Film-forming polymers and gums are therefore generally typical substances for hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays or leave-on conditioners. As such, they are preferably used in the compositions of the invention when used in such compositions. Substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair are preferred because they reduce the tendency of the hair to absorb moisture, that is, water. As a result, the limp drooping of the strands of hair is reduced and thus a long-lasting hairstyle structure and preservation is guaranteed. The test method for this is often the so-called curl retention test applied. The use of at least one of these polymers in the compositions according to the invention is therefore preferred according to the invention. Very particular preference is given from this group of polymers to those which additionally have strengthening properties. However, it is also preferred according to the invention if at least one setting and one film-forming polymer are used in the compositions according to the invention. It is most preferred for both polymers to have both firming and film-forming properties at the same time, although if appropriate in different forms.

Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume, the hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These so-called setting polymers are at the same time film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

Because of the importance of polymers in particular, they should therefore be listed explicitly in the form of their INCI names. Of course, in this list of polymers which are very particularly preferred for use in accordance with the invention, the cationic polymers are likewise found again.

Examples of common film-forming, setting polymers are: Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylate / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butyl Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxy Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer, acrylates / octylacrylamides / diphenyl

Amodimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxides Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Allyl Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aminoethyl Acrylate Phosphate / Acrylate Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylate / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol AMPD Acrylate / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylate Copolymer, AMPD Acrylate / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylate / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP

Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bacillus / Rice Bran Extract / Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrate, Bis-Butyloxyamodimethicone / PEG-60 Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butylated PVP, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer , Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Diethylene Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Amodimethicone, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, MEA Sulfites, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, PEG / PPG-25/25 Dimethicone / Acrylates Copolymer, PEG-8 / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylamides, Polyacrylates-6, Polybeta-Alanines / Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polyester-1, polyethylacrylates, polyethylenes Terephthalate, polymethacryloyl ethyl betaine, polypentaerythrityl terephthalate,

Polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2,

Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7,

Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11,

Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15,

Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19,

Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27,

Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31,

Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35,

Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-45,

Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49,

Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polysilicone-9,

Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-6, Polyurethane-10, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Butyral,

Polyvinylcaprolactam, Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl

Methyl Ether, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Ethyl Ester of

PVM / MA copolymer, PPG-70 polyglyceryl-10 ether, PPG-12 / SMDI copolymer, PPG

51 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-10 sorbitol, PVM / MA copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / ltaconic acid

Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin Acrylate,

Shellac, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA

Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sterculia Urens Gum, Terephthalic Acid / Isophthalic

Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Trimethylolpropane

Triacrylate, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, VA / Crotonates Copolymer,

VA / crotonates / methacryloxybenzophenone-1 copolymer, VA / crotonates / vinyl

Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / DBM

Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol

Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer,

VP / acrylates / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylates

Copolymer, VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP / Hexadecenes Copolymer, VP / VA

Copolymer, VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylate Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate.

Very particular preference is given to acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer, octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, polyurethane-1, polyvinylcaprolactam and VP / VA copolymer. The film-forming and / or setting polymer is preferably contained in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, most preferably in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight , Of course, several film-forming and / or setting polymers may also be present in the composition according to the invention. These film-forming and / or setting polymers may be both permanent and temporary cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric. Furthermore, the present invention also encompasses the recognition that, when using at least two film-forming and / or setting polymers, these can of course have different charges. It may be preferred according to the invention for an ionic film-forming and / or setting polymer to be used together with an amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer. The use of at least two oppositely charged film-forming and / or setting polymers is also preferred. In the latter case, a particular embodiment may in turn additionally contain at least one further amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer.

Finally, the antistatic effect of polymers is another essential function for cosmetic agents. With the help of the electrical properties of these polymers, the surfaces of the cosmetically treated substrates skin, nails and keratinic fibers are influenced in their electrical potential. In hair care, for example, this effect reduces the effect known as "fly-away effect" and is based on the electrostatic repulsion of the hair fibers, but it also affects the skin surface on the skin surface, and some of these polymers have their optimum effect In the compositions according to the invention, preference is given from this group of polymers to those which at the same time belong to at least one of the groups of fixing and / or film-forming polymers It is also possible to use, in each case, at least one antistatic, at least one fixing and at least one film-forming polymer however, it is preferred to select the polymers such that at least one of the polymers has at least two of the desired properties. Highly preferred according to the invention is when the polymer further fulfills a further property in addition to the three very particularly important properties of setting, fixing and film formation.

Examples of such antistatic polymers are:

Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Isostearoyl Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Benzyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caesalpinia Spinosa Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silicon Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiIk Amino Acids, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, Dimethicone Propylethylenediamine Behenate, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, Ditallow Dimonium Cellulose Sulfate, Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium C Hloride, Gelatin / Lysine / Polyacrylamides Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Beta-Glucan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein,

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silica, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Whey, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Wheat Amino Acids, Laur / Myrist / Palmitamidobutyl Guanidine Acetate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Collagen, Oleamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, PEG-2 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-10 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-2 Cocomonium Chloride, PEG-15 Cocomonium Chloride , PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocopolyamine, PEG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Dioleoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG -3 Distearoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-4 Distearylethonium Ethosulfate, PEG-2 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-8 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallowmonium Chloride, PEG-5 Isodecyloxypropylamine, PEG-2 Lauramine, PEG-5 Oleamine, PEG-15 Oleamine , PEG-30 Oleamine, PEG-2 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-15 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-12 Palmitamine, PEG-8 Palmitoyl Methyl Diethonium Methosulfate, PEG / PPG-1/25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Rapeseedamine, PEG-2 Soyamine , PEG-5 Soyamine, PEG-8 Soyamine, PEG-10 Soyamine, PEG-15 Soyamine, PEG-2 Stearamine, PEG-5 Stearamine, PEG-10 Stearamine, PEG-15 Stearamine, PEG-50 Stearamine, PEG-2 Stearmonium Chlorides, PEG-15 Stearmonium Chlorides, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Chlorides, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Lact ate, PEG-10 Stearyl Benzonium Chloride, PEG-6 Stearylguanidine, PEG-5 Tallow Amide, PEG-2 Tallow Amine, PEG-7 Tallow Amine, PEG-11 Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Tallow Amine, PEG-25 tallow amines, PEG-3 tallow aminopropyl amines, PEG-10 tallow aminopropyl amines, PEG-15 tallow aminopropyl amines, PEG-20 tallow ammonium ethosulfates, PEG-5 tallow benzonium chlorides, PEG-15 tallow polyamines, PEG-3 tallow propylene-dimonium dimethosulfates . PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride, Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium 8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-1 1, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20 , Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium -37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50,

Polyquaternium-54, Polyquaternium-60, Polysilicone-1, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, PPG-2 Cocamine, PPG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-40 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-2 Hydrogenated Tallowamine, PPG-24-PEG -21 Tallowaminopropylamine, PPG-2 Tallowamine, PPG-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-16, Quaternium-18, Quaternium -18 Methosulfates, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-43, Quaternium-45, Quaternium-51, Quaternium-52, Quaternium-53, Quaternium- 56, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61, Quaternium-63, Quaternium-70, Quaternium-71, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-73, Quaternium-75, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-77, Quaternium-78, Quaternium- 79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Sick, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-86, Quaternium-88, Quaternium-89 , Quaternium-90, Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silica, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Wheat Germamidopropyl Epoxypropyldimonium Chloride, Wheatgermamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfates.

Of course, the emulsion-stabilizing polymers are also among the polymers preferred according to the invention. These are understood to mean polymers which essentially support the structure and the stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions). Surfactants and emulsifiers are of course the essential ingredients, but the stabilizing polymers contribute to a reduction in the coalescence of the emulsified droplets by positively affecting the continuous or disperse phase. This positive influence may be due to an electrical repulsion, an increase in viscosity or a film formation on the surface of the droplets. These properties of the polymers in question can also be used to particular advantage in the compositions according to the invention in order to dissolve the powdery compositions according to the invention before and / or during the application of the powder in water.

Examples of such polymers are Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Amino Acrylates / CI O-SO Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides , AIIyI Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Phosphatidyl Rapeseedate, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Shellacate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Beeswax, Bentonite, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate, Cholesterol, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C12-14 Sec Pareth-3, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-8, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-12, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-15, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-20, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-30, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-40, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-50, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Collagen PG-Propyl Dimethiconol, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Isostearyloxy Isopropanolamine, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lanolin, Lanolin Alcohol, Magnesium Alginate, Maltodextrin, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Microcrystalline Wax, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ozokerite, Pectin, PEG -350, PEG-400, PEG-500, PEG-12 Carnauba, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-6 Hydrogenated Palmamide, PEG-100 / IPDI Copolymer , PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-1 15M, PEG-160M, PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-23/6 dimethicone, PEG / P PG-8/3 Laurate, PEG / PPG-10/3 Oleyl Ether Dimethicone, Polyacrylic Acid, Polyethylene, Polyethylene / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolyol, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate / IPDI Copolymer, Polypropylene Terephthalate, Polysilicone-16, Polyvinyl Acetate, Potassium Alginates, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Alginate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Com Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth -7, PPG-4 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, PPG-2 tocophereth-5, PPG-5 tocophereth-2, PPG-10 tocophereth-30 , PPG-20 Tocophereth-50, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber, Saccharated Lime, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate A / inyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfate, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Dextrin Octenyl Succinate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyl Dimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polynaphthalenesulfonate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium / TEA Undecylenoyl Alginate, Sodium / TEA Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Sucrose Polypalmate, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, TEA Alginates, TEA Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Undecylenoyl Inulin, Undecylenoyl Xanthan Gum, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum , Zinc Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Polymers can increase the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations. In aqueous phases, their viscosity-increasing function is based on their solubility in water or their hydrophilic nature. They are used in both surfactant and emulsion systems. This property of the polymers is also advantageous in the powders according to the invention before and / or during use.

The following are some examples of typical polymeric thickeners for aqueous systems:

Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth -20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer , Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, AcrylatesA / inyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Agar, Agarose, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Algin, Alginic Acid, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium

Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosan, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Calcium Alginate, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan , Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose , Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / acrylo Nitrogen Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Gelatin, Gellan Gum, Glyceryl Alginate, Glycine Soybean (Soybean) Flour, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hectorite, Hydrated Silica, Hydrogenated Potato Starch, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Ethylene Diamine Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Hydroxystearamide MEA, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Lithium Magnesium Silicate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Macrocystis Pyrifera (KeIp), Magnesium Alginate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Magnesium Silicate, Magnesium Trisilicate, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Cellulose, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Natto Gum, Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Pectin, PEG-800, PEG Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI copolymer, PEG-175 diisostearate, PEG-190 distearate, PEG-15 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-140 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, PEG-100 / IPDI copolymer, PEG 180 / Laureth-50 / TMMG Copolymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG -23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate, PEG-180 / octoxynol-40 / TMMG copolymer, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate , PEG-4 rapeseedamides, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, polyacrylates-3, polyacrylic acid, polycyclopentadienes, polyether-1, polyethylenes / isopropyl maleate / MA Copol yol, Polymethacrylic Acid, Polyquaternium-52, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Aluminum Polyacrylate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potato Starch Modified, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Isophoryl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, Propylene Glycol Alginate, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Rhizobian Gum, Ricinoleic Acid / Adipic Acid / AEEA Copolymer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfates , Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copo Lyme, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Sodium Polyacrylates, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyl Dimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylates, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonates, Sodium Silicoaluminates, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinates, Sodium Stearoxy PG- Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Sulfonates, Sodium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylates / Acrylic Acid Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch, Starch / Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Synthetic Fluorophlogopite, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Tapioca Starch, TEA Alginate, TEA Carbomer, Triticum Vulgaris (Wheat) Starch, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Tromethamine Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Yeast Beta Glucan, Yeast Polysaccharides , Zea Mays (Com) Starch.

Another way to increase the viscosity of cosmetic products is the thickening of the non-aqueous phase, the lipid phase of the cosmetic products. For this purpose, polymers are used which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids. They are also used for the gelation of cosmetic products with high lipid levels. This also contributes significantly to the excellent application of the powders according to the invention. With these polymers, the viscosity of the composition which forms on dissolution is excellently controlled.

The following are some of these polymers listed:

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, AIIyI Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Alumina Magnesium Metasilicate, Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate, Beeswax, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bispolyethylene Dimethicone, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Butylene Glycol Montanate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C29-70 Acid, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, C20-24 Alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, C10-30 Cholesterol / Lanosterol Esters, Cellobiose Octanonanoate, Ceresin, Cerotic Acid, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chlorinated Paraffin, Cholesterol, Cholesteryl Acetate, Cholesteryl Hydroxystearate, Cholesteryl Isostearate, Cholesteryl Macadamiate, Cholesterol yl Stearates, C10-40 Hydroxyalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Octyldodecanol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Phytosterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglycerides, C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer, Copal, Com Starch Modified, C6-14 perfluoroalkylethyl acrylate / HEMA copolymer, C6-14 polyolefin, decene / butenes Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic

Acid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer,

Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethyl Cellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylenediamine / Dimer Tallate Copolymer Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amide, Ethylene Diamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Ethylene Diamine / Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Hydrogenated Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Styrene / Methyl Styrene / Indene Copolymer, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Isobutylene / Isoprene Copolymer, Lithium Oxidized Polyethylene, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methylstyrene / vinyl toluene copolymer, Microcrystalline Wa x, Montan Acid Wax, Montan Wax, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Nylon 61 1 / Dimethicone Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ouricury Wax, Oxidized Beeswax, Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Oxidized Polyethylene, Oxidized Polypropylene, Ozokerite, Paraffin, PEG-18 Castor OiI Dioleate, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-58 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Succinate, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG- 10 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated C astor OiI triisostearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor OiI triisostearate, PEG-5 lanolinamide, PEG-5 oleamide Dioleate, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Glycerol / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Trimellitic Anhydride / Glycol Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentene Copolymer, Polybutene, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polycyclopentadiene, Polydipentenes, Polyethylenes, Polyethylenes Terephthalates, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates, polyisobutenes, polyisoprenes, polypentenes, polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy difluoromethyl distearamides, polypropylenes, polysilicone-4, polysilicone-5, polysilicone-17, polystyrene, polyvinyl butyral , Polyvinyl Laurate, Potassium Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Potassium PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Succinate, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP / Decene Copolymer, Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax, Rosin, Silica Dimethicone Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Wax, Sodium PVIWM A / Decadiene Crosspoly Steareth-10 Cetyl Ether, Stearoxymethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, Stearyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / Methacrylamide / Acrylates Copolymer, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Candelilla Wax, Synthetic Carnauba, Steareth-10 Cetyl Ether, Steareth-60 Synthetic Japan Wax, Synthetic Wax, TDI Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Tricontanyl PVP, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Trifluoropropyl Divinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer

Of course, microparticles filled or unfilled may also be used in the composition of the invention both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active agent from the capsules or the achievement of particular visual, esthetic effects of the overall formulation. In this case, it may be particularly advantageous when polymers are incorporated as suspending aids. Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids. Here, the polymers occupy by adsorption the surface of the solid particles and thereby alter the surface properties of the solids. The following are examples of these polymers:

Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Methoxy PEG-15 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates A / inyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylates A / P Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, Bentonites, Biotites, Calcium Lignosulfonates , Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, Diallyloxyneohexyl Zirconium Tridecanoate, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol / Stearyl Methicone / Phenyl Trimethicone Copolymer, Dimethylol Urea / Phenol / Sodium Phenolsulfonate Copolymer, Disodium Methylene Dinaphthalenesulfonates, Disteardimonium Hectorites, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearoyl Hydroxystearates, Hectorites, Hydroxyethyl Acrylates / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1000, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1500, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolym he, isobutylene / MA copolymer, isopropyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, maltodextrin, methacryloyl ethyl betaine / acrylate copolymer, methoxy PEG-17 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, myristoyl / PCA chitin, nitrocellulose, PEG Castor OiI Dioleate, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEI-7, PEM 0, PEM 5, PEI-30, PEI-35, PEI-45, PEI-250, PEI-275, PEI-700, PEI-1000, PEI-1400, PEI-1500, PEI-1750, PEI-2500, PEI-14M, Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Meadowfoamate, Perlite,

Phosphonobutanetricarboxylic Acid, Polyacrylamidomethylpropanes, Sulfonic Acid, Polycaprolactones, Polyethylacrylates, Polyhydroxystearic Acid,

Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy PEG-2 Phosphates, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetates, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Neoheptanoates, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / ltaconic Acid Copolymer, Quaternium-18 Bentonites, Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonites, Quaternium 18 Hectorites, Quaternium-90 Bentonites, Rhizobian Gum, Silica, Silica Dimethicone Silylates, Silica Dimethyl Silylates, Silica Silylates, Sodium Acrylates / Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates A / Inyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylic Acid / MA Copolymer, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sodium Dimaltodextrin Phosphates, Sodium Glycereth-1 Polyphosphates, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorides, Stearalkonium Bentonites, Stearalkonium Hectorites, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / MA copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate copolymer, tosylamide / epoxy resin, tosylamide / formaldehyde resin, VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer, VPA / A copolymer.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

Other preferred polymers are all polymers in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) as Polymers are referred to in one of the chapters on polymers such as "film formers" or "hair fixatives" and are commercially available, reference is made to this document and the sections cited therefrom.

In a preferred embodiment, it may also be advantageous to formulate at least one avivating and / or at least one film-forming, consolidating polymer and / or at least one thickening polymer. By polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Thus, the polymer (G) according to the invention may be both a consolidating and / or film-forming polymer and a polymer having conditioning or avivating and / or thickening properties.

The polymers (G) are preferably used in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, based on the total Composition, included. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (D) as further active ingredient. With this composition, increased amounts of the active ingredients are deposited on the hair or skin, resulting in synergistically enhanced effects. In the process, this effect is further markedly increased by the further use of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers as deposition aids in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, there is a change in the charge of the surface, which can be measured, for example, by measuring the so-called Wilhelmy voltage.

Fatty substances (D) are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred. The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

Fatty alcohols (D2) may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ - C _o-3, preferably C10 - C22 and most preferably C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ - carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as for example, apple wax or citrus wax, Microwachsen from PE or PP. such

Waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably

0.1-20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total

Medium.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n -Nodecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of Ce - C30 fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, Caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18- alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2- ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylgly- koldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I), CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R ¹

I

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (D4-I)

I CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³

in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

The following table shows the average wages in% by weight of fatty acids of some of the oils according to the invention. Since the listed values are average values of the respective fatty acids, the sum of all fatty acids also be larger or smaller than 100%. Of course, the effective values fluctuate more or less around these averages.

Table 1: Fatty Acid Salaries of Oils

Preferred natural oils contain at least all fat-printed fatty acids, palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid. Particularly preferred natural oils contain the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid in a total amount of at least 50% by weight of the fatty acids. A plus sign behind the respective oils in the above table characterizes these particularly preferred natural oils. Very particularly preferred oils are furthermore distinguished by an additional content of squalene. Highly preferred natural oils and their mixtures also have a content of linolenic acids.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that at least two of the natural oils listed in the above table can be mixed together. In this case, however, the natural oils must be selected so that the sum of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid gives at least 50% by weight of the sum of the total fatty acids. Preferred blends of the natural oils are amaranth seed oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, shea butter amaranth seed oil, camellina oil amaranth seed oil, amaranth seed oil with olive oil, amaranth seed oil with macadamia nut oil, olive oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, camelina olive oil, shea butter olive oil, macadamia nut oil and at least one sea buckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil shea butter. However, more than three of the natural oils should not be mixed together.

Argan oil is one of the most preferred natural oils and should therefore be described in more detail as an example. Argan oil itself has been known for a long time and is already widely used by humans. It is considered the most valuable vegetable oil, which is why it is also called "the gold of the Berbers." This is also the reason why it has not found wide use and therefore little is known about the interaction with other ingredients of cosmetic compositions.

Argan oil is the oil of the seed of argan fruit. The argan tree, Argania spinosa, is one of the oldest trees in the world. Fear with a plum or olive-like appearance can not be consumed. The tree can bear fruit several times a year. The wood, the leaves and the fruits are very valuable and are used. The date-sized fruits are dried and pressed. The kernels of the fruit are won. The kernels are about three times the size of hazelnuts. The kernels are pitched to recover the seeds. These seeds are finally lightly roasted and ground to recover the oil. Argan oil is slightly reddish and has a walnut-like taste. Argan oil is considered the most valuable vegetable oil. It is unusually rich in tocopherols and shows the strongest vitamin E activity of all known vegetable oils. Furthermore, argan oil has a uniquely high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids of more than 80 wt.%. Argan oil is an excellent edible oil and dietary supplement. And also in cosmetic compositions argan oil is used because of its high content of vitamin E and unsaturated fatty acids. The importance of argan oil is also based on the unique sterols contained in argan oil, in particular Schottenol and spinasterol. Argan oil contains from tocopherol per 100 g of oil about 50 to 90 mg of tocopherols, which are composed as follows: about 40 to 60 mg of α-tocopherol, about 5 to 15 mg of β-tocopherol, about 5 to 10 mg δ- Tocopherol and about 0.5 to 5 mg of γ-tocopherol. The ratio of unsaturated to saturated fatty acids in argan oil is about 4.5: 1. The amount of sterols in the argan oil is about 120 to 250 mg / 100 g of oil. The content of fatty acids is more than 99% by weight, of which more than 80% by weight are unsaturated. The fatty acid composition is approximately as follows: palmitic acid 12 to 13%, stearic acid 5 to 7% and arachidonic acid 0.3 to 0.5% and the unsaturated fatty acids oleic acid 43 to 49.1%, linoleic acid 23.9 to 36.0%, Linoleic acid to 0.1% and gadoleic acid to 0.5%. The amount of linoleic acid in argan oil is about three times higher than that of olive oil.

Argan oil is traditionally used for cooking and in cosmetic compositions. The North Africans use argan oil to rub the skin before the visit a steam bath. It penetrates quickly into the skin and leaves a pleasant and soft skin feeling. Argan oil prevents the skin from drying out and aging and is also used to prevent itching. In hair care, it is recommended for brittle and dry hair and hair loss.

Another preferred natural oil is Amaranth seed oil. Amaranth seed oil can be easily incorporated into hair cleansing and conditioner. Incorporated into these compositions, the hair treated therewith remains more glossy and has improved care properties, in particular improved combing properties, more gloss and improved feel. In particular, it has been found that a hair cleanser based on amaranth seed oil requires the least amount of solubilizer, while comparable other oils require a significantly higher amount of solubilizer in order to ensure stable incorporation of the oil into the shampoo. For example, the amaranth seed oil can be stable and clear incorporated into a shampoo at a certain concentration of solubilizers, while many other natural oils have a phase separation.

The lipid fraction of the amaranth seeds consists essentially of triglycerides. In addition to oil and palmitic acid, linoleic acid is the main component in the fatty acid distribution of the oil. Myristic acid, stearic acid, vaccenic acid, α-linolenic acid, arachidic acid, 1-eicosenoic acid and behenic acid are also present in the fatty acid spectrum. Particularly noteworthy, however, is a particularly high proportion of squalene (6-12%) in amaranth seed oil, which is found in other conventional vegetable oils only in very low concentrations. In addition, the Amaranthsamenöl rich in many vitamin E derivatives (including α-, ß-, γ- and δ-tocopherol and α- and ß-tocotrienol) and has a remarkable proportion of the phytosterols Δ7-avenasterol, Δ7-campesterol, Δ7-sitosterol and Δ7-stigmasterol. A suitable oil according to the invention is available, for example, under the trade name "Amaranth Seed OiI" from the company Euro Ingredients.

Shea butter is to be described in more detail as another example of natural oils. Shea butter is inventively not alone but exclusively in Blend with at least one other natural oil used so that the total content of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid is at least 50 wt.%.

Shea butter is similar to cocoa butter. Shea butter is obtained from the seeds of the butter tree found in West Africa, Vitellaria paradoxa or Butyrospermum parkii, Sapotacaeae. It is tough-buttery consistency and relatively stable to oxidation. Shea butter is used directly for food purposes in the producer countries. Shea butter is characterized by the following characteristics: saponification number 178 to 196, iodine value 55 to 67, unsaponifiable 2 to 11%. Shea butter has a melting range of 32 to 42 ⁰ C. A characteristic ingredient is the sheasterin, 2-Oleo-distearin. The essential fatty acid composition is oleic acid 49 to 50%, stearic acid 35 to 42%, palmitic acid 5 to 6% and linoleic acid 4 to 5%. Due to the high proportion of unsaponifiable shea butter has a special status within the vegetable oils and fats. The proportion of unsaponifiable substances is usually only about 0.2 to 2% for vegetable fats. Therefore, the proportion of phytosterols in the shea butter is significantly higher than any other vegetable fats. Important representatives of the phytosterols of shea butter are, for example, α- and β-amyrin, Basseol, Parkeol and Lupeol. The structures of α- and β-amyrin are as follows:

CE _' Arnyrtn ß-Amyπn

The structure of Lupeol is as follows:

These shea butter phytosterols are all triterpenes with more than 15 carbon atoms. Finally, in the shea butter also a share of waxes available.

Shea butter is used in cosmetic compositions especially in skin care products. However, it is also included in some compositions for cleaning and care of keratinic fibers.

In a most preferred embodiment, the compositions further contain squalene. Squalene is found in large quantities in shark fishes. In smaller quantities it is also found in some vegetable fats and oils. Squalene is also found in the natural lipid coat of keratinous fibers. Oils of the invention, which also contain squalene and are thus used most preferably according to the invention, can be found in Table 1 on the pages above. Squalene belongs to the triterpenes. The structure of squalene is shown in the following figure.

[(a // - £) -2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyl-2,6,10,14,18,22-tetracosahexaene, spinacene]

In this most preferred drug combination, squalene is used in proportion to the combination of the fatty acids in an amount of 1: 1000. A ratio of 1: 100 is preferred. Particularly preferred is a squalene: fatty acid ratio of 1:50, most preferably 1:20 and most preferably 1:10 and most preferably 1: 5.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. -%.

One last group of substances that can be used as fatty substances are silicone oils.

Silicone oils (S) cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. But also the softness and the elasticity of the film, which is formed by film-forming polymers on the hair for the purpose of strengthening and styling, is positively influenced by silicones. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (S 1 -I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):

R ²

I (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _y - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ )

I (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _z - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ )

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting Examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, see the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

When the dimethiconols of the invention are used as an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles is according to the invention from 0.01 μm to 10000 μm, preferably from 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably from 0.01 to 20 μm and most preferably from 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethiconols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols can be very particularly preferred.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel Sl 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois FiIs), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources) , Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all aforementioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-SiI CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), THV 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker -Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).

The dimethiconols (S1) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible that the dimethiconols form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of dimethiconol may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S2-I)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2 - II): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃ )

IO - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _z - (SiR ¹ ₃ )

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

When the dimethicones of the invention are used as an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 μm to 10000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 μm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethicones are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicones are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicones can be very particularly preferred.

The dimethicones (S2) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconone based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible that the dimethicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of dimethicone may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones. Dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the following structural formulas:

(SiR ¹ ₃₎ - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (Sirpe - O -) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃₎ (S3 - I)

or by the following structural formula:

PE - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) - PE (S3 - II)

Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):

R ²

I PE - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _y - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) - PE (S3 - III)

I (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _z - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) - PE

or by the structural formula (S3 - IV): R ²

(SiR ¹ ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² PE - O -) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S3 - IV)

I (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _z - (SiR ¹ ₃ )

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the Dimethiconcopolymere can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

When the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are used as emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 μm to 10000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 μm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred. The dimethicone copolyols (S3) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible for the dimethicone copolyols to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, the amount of Dimethiconcopolyol up to 40 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt.% Based on the total composition.

Aminofunctional silicones, or also called amodimethicones (S4), are silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.

Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (S4-I)

M (R _a Q _b SiO _(4- ab) / ₂ ) _x (R c SiO ₍₄ -c) / ₂ ) y M (S ₄ -I)

in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, - OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of R _a Q _b SiO _(4-a - _{b) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4-C) / 2} units is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variables can be used Substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend. Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II)

R _'a G _3-a -Si (OSiG ₂₎ n (OSiG _b R' _2-b) _m -O-SiG ₃ - _a -R'a (S4 - II),

contain, in which means:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H _3, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃₎ _2, -CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, -C (CH ₃₎ _3; a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

R ^'is a monovalent radical selected from o -N (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ - N (R") ₂ o -N (R ") ₂ o -N ⁺ (R") ₃ A ^"o -N ⁺ H (R ") ₂ A ^" o -N ⁺ H ₂ (R ") A ^" o -N (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R" H ₂ A ^" where each R" is the same or various radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the Ci _-20- alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from Chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III) (CH ₃₎ 3 Si- [OSi (CH 3) 2] n [OSi (CH3)] _m OSi (CH ₃₎ 3 (S4 - III),

I CH ₂ CH (CH 3) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) are also particularly preferred.

R- [Si _(CH3) 2-O] _n1 [Si (R) -O] _m - [Si (CH ₃₎ 2] n2-R (S4 - IV),

I

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g , The amine number stands for the MiIIi- equivalents of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g. The amodimethicones (S4) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of amodimethicone based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible for the amodimethicones to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of amodimethicone may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Only recently, completely novel polyammonium polysiloxane compounds are known in which the siloxane substructures are optionally connected to each other via ammonium substructures. Such compounds and their use in cosmetic products are described, for example, in the published patent application WO 02/10257.

As a silicone, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound, which is constructed as described below. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds contain:

a1) at least one polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the general formulas: -A-E-, -E-A-, -A-E-A'- and / or -A'-E-A-, in which:

A is one of the groups: -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH ₂ -, -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -,

A ^' means: -CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -C (O) CH ₂ -,

-C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and

E represents a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formulas: - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - and / or - [OCH (CH ₃ ) CHJr ₁ - [OCH ₂ CHd ,, -, with q = 1 to 200 and r = 0 to 200, wherein the terminal oxygen atom of group A binds to the terminal -CH ₂ group of group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon of group A 'to the terminal oxygen atom group E each to form ester groups, and / or at least one terminal polyalkylene oxide of formula Straktureinheit -AE- R ² wherein a and e have the abovementioned meaning, and R ² is H, straight chain, cyclic or branched Ci - C ₂₀ - hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, or -C (O) may be interrupted and substituted with -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic,

a2) at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical containing at least one ammonium group,

a3) at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula:

-KSK-, in which S is -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O- [Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ - and in which R ¹ is C _r C ₂₂ -alkyl, C _r C ₂₂ -Fluoralkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000, and when there are several groups S in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different, where K is a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -

C ₄₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -N-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N ⁺ (R ³ ) - and -

N ⁺ (R ¹ ) (R ³ ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 is} as defined above, or optionally a bond to a bivalent one

R ³ represents a radical in which R ^{3 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and - OH, or -AER ² , wherein A, E and R are as defined above, wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other, and in the case that

K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group,

a4) an organic or inorganic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (s) ammonium group (s).

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they have the above-defined components a1) to a4). The polysiloxane compounds are formed by binding of said structural units or radicals a1) to a3) to each other. Component a4) serves to neutralize the positive charges resulting from component a2).

The polysiloxane compounds of the invention may be oligomers or polymeric compounds. Oligomeric compounds also include the case described below wherein the polysiloxane compound has only one repeating unit.

Polysiloxane compounds of the invention are naturally formed by alternating linkage of divalent radicals.

In the case of the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, the terminal atom groups result from the terminal atom groups of the starting materials used. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art.

In a preferred embodiment, the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are linear polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are composed of the structural components a1) to a3). Thus, the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, in particular their formed from the repeat units linear polymeric backbone, by alternating juxtaposition of polyalkylene oxide structural units a1), organic radicals containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium group a2) and polysiloxane structural units a3) are constructed. That is, in addition, where appropriate, in the structural components existing free valences (as in trivalent radicals may occur as component a2) or trivalent radicals K) preferably do not serve the structure of polymeric side chains or polymeric branches.

In a further embodiment, the main chain of the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can be built up from the organic radicals containing at least one ammonium group a2) and the polysiloxane structural units a3), and the polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) bind as side chains to the trivalent organic ammonium group radical. For example, the following structures can result:

- (polyalkylene oxide structural unit-polysiloxane structural unit-polyalkylene oxide structural unit - preferably quaternary ammonium group radical) _x -

- (polysiloxane structural unit - preferably quaternary ammonium group radical) _x- polyalkylene oxide structural unit) _x -

- (polysiloxane unit-preferably quaternary ammonium group residue) _x -

I

Polyalkylenoxidstruktureinheit

Depending on the molar ratio of the monomeric starting compounds, polysiloxane compounds according to the invention may result which have only one repeating unit. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art. This case leads, for example, to inventive polysiloxane compounds of the structure:

(terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit quaternary ammonium group radical)

Polysiloxane moiety-quaternary ammonium group residue terminal

Polyalkylenoxidstruktureinheit).

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention preferably consist essentially of the components a1) to a4), wherein the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention naturally consist of the reaction of the monomers Starting materials have resulting terminal groups. However, it is also possible to use monofunctional chain terminators.

The polyalkylene oxide structural units a) may be divalent radicals of the general formulas:

-A-E, -E-A, -A-E-A'- and / or -A'-E-A- act. The rest A means:

-CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH ₂ -,

-OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -

The rest A ^' means:

-CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -C (O) CH ₂ -, -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -

C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -.

The polyalkylene oxide group E of the general formulas:

- [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - and / or - [OCH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ ] _r - [OCH ₂ CH ₂ ] _q with q = 1 or 2 up to 200 and r = O to 200, include all possible ethylene oxide / propylene oxide groups. Thus, they may be ethylene oxide / propylene oxide random copolymer groups or ethylene oxide / propylene oxide block copolymer groups with any arrangement of one or more ethylene oxide or propylene oxide blocks.

The attachment of the radicals A or A to the group E takes place in such a way that the terminal oxygen atom of group A to the terminal -CH ₂ - group of group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon of group A 'to the terminal oxygen atom of Group E each bind to form ester groups.

The polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) may furthermore be a monovalent, ie terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula - AER ² , in which A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R ^{2 is} H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ₂ o - Hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, or -C (O) - and substituted with -OH and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic. The component a2) from which the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are composed is at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group. The binding of the radical to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds of the invention is preferably carried out via the nitrogen atom of one or more ammonium groups in the organic radical. The term "divalent" or "trivalent" means that the organic ammonium radical to form bonds in particular to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention has two or three free valences. The ammonium radical is expediently represented by an NH ₄ ⁺ group in which at least two hydrogen atoms are substituted by organic groups. Preferably, it is a secondary or quaternary, more preferably a quaternary ammonium group. A quaternary ammonium group is by general definition (see, for example, Römpp Chemie Lexikon) a group in which all four hydrogen atoms of an NH ₄ ⁺ group are replaced by organic radicals.

The component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention is at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula:

-K-S-K-,

S is a polysiloxane group of the general formula

-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -, wherein R ^{1 represents} dC ₂₂ alkyl, dC ₂₂ fluoroalkyl or aryl, preferably phenyl, n = 0 to 1000, and when plural groups S are present in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different.

R ¹ is preferably C ¹ -C ₈ -alkyl, C ¹ -C ₈ -fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R1 is preferably d-ds-alkyl, d-Ce-fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R ¹ is preferably C _r C ₆ alkyl, Ci - C ₆ - fluoroalkyl, preferably dC ₄ fluoroalkyl, and phenyl. More preferably, R ^{1 is} methyl, ethyl, trifluoropropyl and phenyl.

The term "C 1 -C ₂₂ -alkyl" in the context of the present invention means that the aliphatic hydrocarbon groups have 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight or branched. Examples which may be mentioned are methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl and 1,2,3 trimethylhexyl.

The term "C 1 -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl" in the context of the present invention means aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom, by way of example monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoroethyl , Perfluorethyl, 1, 1, 1-trifluoropropyl, 1, 2,2-trifluorobutyl.

The term "aryl" in the context of the present invention are unsubstituted or mono or polysubstituted with OH, F, Cl, CF ₃ C _r C ₆ alkyl, C _r C ₆ alkoxy, C ₃ -C ₇ - cycloalkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl. The term may optionally also mean naphthyl.

K represents a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄ -OH hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, C (O) -, -C (S) -, - N ⁺ (R ³ ) -, -NR ¹ -, and -N ⁺ (R ¹ ) (R ³ ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

"Interrupted" means that in the case of bivalent radicals a - CH ₂ - grouping in the case of the trivalent radicals a -CH- grouping of the hydrocarbon radical are replaced by said groups. This also applies to the rest of the description, if this name is used.

The group K binds via a carbon atom to the silicon atom of the group S.

The group K can, as seen above, also preferably have quaternary ammonium groups, so that ammonium groups result in addition to the ammonium groups in said component a2) in the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention. The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can, for example in the radical K, have amino groups. The reaction of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention with acids leads to their protonation. Such protonated amino group-containing polysiloxane compounds are included in the scope of the present invention.

The bonding of component a3), the polysiloxane structural unit -K-S-K-, to the other structural components via the radical K preferably does not take place via a nitrogen atom of the radical K.

R ¹ is as defined above or optionally represents a bond to a divalent radical R ³ , so that a cycle results.

R ³ represents a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched -C ₂ o-hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - interrupted and with - OH may be substituted, or -AER ² , wherein A, E and R ^{2 are} as defined above.

The radicals K can be identical or different from one another, and in the case where K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence takes place via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group.

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention furthermore contain component a4), at least one organic or inorganic anionic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s). Organic or inorganic acid radicals are radicals that formally result from the elimination of one or more protons from organic or inorganic acids and include, for example, halides such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfates, nitrates, phosphates, carboxylates such as formate, acetate, propionate etc., sulfonates, sulfates, polyether carboxylates and polyether sulfates etc. Chloride is preferred. The organic or inorganic anionic acid radicals as component a4) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention may be identical or different from one another. This results from the reaction of the amines with alkyl halides preferably halide ions, while, for example, carboxylates from the carboxylic acids which may be added in the reaction of bisepoxides with amines result.

In a preferred embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, K represents a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 is} as defined above, and wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other.

The abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group is preferably a radical of the general formula:

-N ¹ -FN ¹ -, wherein N ^{1 is} a quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R ⁴ ) N ⁺ (R ⁵ ) -, wherein R ^{4 represents} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, and R ⁵ is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical represents, which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁴ or a tetravalent radical F, and the radicals R ⁴ and R ⁵ within the group -N ¹ -FN ¹ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,

F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, - C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S , wherein for S the above-mentioned references apply, can be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

For further details of the definitions of the quaternary ammonium group of the formula -N ¹ -FN ¹ - (preferred embodiments, etc.), reference should be made to the explanations of the first embodiment of the present invention for the component a, the Polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds in which this group is realized referenced, and also in this more general context validity.

The abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group may furthermore preferably be a radical of the general formula - (R ⁶ ) N ⁺ (R ⁷ ) -, in which R ^{6 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched d C ₃ o-hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,

-C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, or R ⁶ represents a single bond to a trivalent radical K.

R ⁷ is a monovalent straight chain, cyclical or branched C ₁ -C ₂ 0- hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be substituted with -OH and interrupted, or -AER ² , wherein -AER ^{2 has} the abovementioned meaning, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁶ or to a trivalent radical K. The radicals R ⁶ and R ⁷ may be the same or different from each other.

For further details of the definitions of the quaternary ammonium group of formula - (R ⁶ ) N ⁺ (R ⁷ ) - (preferred embodiments), reference is made to the explanations of the second, third and fourth embodiment to the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, component a), of Reference is made to present active substance complex according to the invention, in which this group is realized, and which also have validity in this more general context.

The aforementioned organic radical containing at least one ammonium group may further preferably be a radical of the general formula:

-N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ -, wherein N ^{5 is} an ammonium group of the general formula

- (R ²³ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁴ ) - is where

R ²³ is hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂ 0- hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - interrupted and - OH can be substituted, R ^{24 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C 20 hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH may be, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ²³ , and the radicals R ²³ and R ²⁴ within the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ -s as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other, F ^{1 represents} a bivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched -N hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -N-, -C (S) - or by a group -E-,

and wherein a plurality of the groups N ⁵ and F ^{1 may} each be the same or different from each other.

For further details of the definitions of the ammonium group of formula -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - (preferred embodiments), reference is made to the explanations of the fifth embodiment of component a, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds of the present invention, in which this group is exemplified is, and which are also valid in this more general context.

In the following, the components a) of the active substance complex according to the invention, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, are described in detail with reference to five preferred embodiments of these compounds.

A particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds (which will be referred to as the first embodiment of component a) of the active ingredient complex), wherein the aforementioned organic radical containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, as component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention a radical the general formula:

-N ¹ -FN ¹ - is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the following general formula (I):

- [BN ¹ -FN ¹ ] m- (I) where m = 2 to 500,

B is -AEKSKEA- and additionally, if appropriate, -AE-A'- or -AEA-, wherein S, K, -AE-, - EA, -AE-A 'and -A'-EA and -N ¹ -FN ¹ - are as defined above, and the proportion of the group -AE-A' - or -A'-EA- in the group B may be chosen so that the mass of -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- from 0 to 90%, preferably 0% or 0.1 to 50% of the mass of the polysiloxane S in the polymer.

The first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds preferably relates to linear alkylene-oxide-modified polyquaternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (I ¹ )

- [B-NT-FN ¹ ], - (I ^' ) wherein m is 2 to 500,

B -AEKSKEA-, S -Si (R ¹⁾ ₂ -O [Si (R ¹⁾ ₂ -O] n-Si (R ¹⁾ ₂ - R ¹ Ci-C ₂₂ alkyl, _Ci-C22 fluoroalkyl or Aryl, n 0 to 1000,

K is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂₀ -

Hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH, E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O ] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - with, q 1 to 200, r 0 to 200 and

A -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, N ¹ is a quaternary ammonium structure

- (R ⁴ ) N + (R ⁵ ) - R ^{4 represents} a monovalent or divalent straight, cyclic or branched dC ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical interrupted by O-, -NH, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and. may be substituted by -OH, R ^{5 is} R ⁴ or a single bond to R ⁴ or F, F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S, where S is the above-mentioned references, may be interrupted and substituted with -OH. The possibility of a tetravalent substructure for F means that F can form a branched or ring system with the limiting N ¹ , so that F then participates with two bonds at each quaternization of both limiting N ¹ . For a more detailed illustration, reference is made to the published patent application WO 02/10257, in particular to Example 1 therein.

In a further embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, the possibility of a divalent substructure for R ^{4 means} that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure in which R ⁵ in this case is a single bond to R ⁴ . Examples are morpholinyl and piperidinyl structures. More preferred embodiments of this so-called first embodiment of the invention and processes for the preparation of said polysiloxane compounds of the formula (I) or (I ¹ ) are described below.

R ⁴ is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, - CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁴ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁴ , wherein R ¹⁴ denotes a straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrCl ₈ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

As mentioned above, R ⁴ and R ⁵ can also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas

CH ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ -CH ₂

/ \ / \

O CH

\ / \ /

CH ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ -CH ₂ form.

The preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds can be referred to the above statements. In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, R ^{4 is} preferably a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁ 6, more preferably C ₃ -C ₆ , hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C may be interrupted and substituted by -OH, more preferably a C ₃ - - (O) -, -C (S) -C ₆ - hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with - OH, wherein R ^{1 has} the abovementioned meaning.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, F is preferably a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂ O-hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, - C (O) -, -C (S), a siloxane chain S, where S is the above-mentioned references, may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is preferably -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ J ₄ -. - (CH ₂ ) ₆ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ -, and - CH = CHCH ₂ -.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, R ^{14 is} preferably unsubstituted C ₅ -C ₇ -hydrocarbon radicals derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₇ radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are used in the present invention as active ingredients a) of the active compound complex according to the invention, R ¹⁴ furthermore preferably represents hydroxylated radicals from the group consisting of

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, m is 2 to 100, preferably 2 to 50.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, n is 0 to 1000, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 80 and particularly preferably 10 to 80.

In the so-called first embodiment of the invention, q is 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20 and particularly preferably 2 to 10.

In the so-called first embodiment of the invention, r is 0 to 200, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 50, and even more preferably 0 to 20.

For the preparation of the polysiloxane-polyammonium compounds according to the invention both of this first embodiment and of all further preferred embodiments of the polysiloxane-polyammonium compounds a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention, reference is made explicitly to the published patent application WO 02/10257.

A particular embodiment of the invention (hereinafter referred to as so-called second

Embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds is called by the

Polysiloxane Compounds of general formula (II) shown, R ² -EAN ² -KSKN ² -AER ² (II) wherein

S, K, -AE-, -EA- and R ^{2 have} the meanings given above, and

N ^{2 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group, the general formula

- (R ⁸ ) N ⁺ (R ⁹ ) - is in which

R ^{8 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, - C (S) - and substituted by -OH .

R ^{9 is} a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ₂ o hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁸ or to a trivalent radical K, and the radicals R ⁸ and R ⁹ within the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (II) may be identical or different from each other.

The polysiloxane compounds of the second embodiment are preferably (-alkylene oxide and polyquaternary modified polysiloxanes of the general formula (II ¹ )

R ¹⁶ - EAN ² -KSKN ² -AER ¹⁶ (IT)

What the names stand for,

S is -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) - with R ^{1 is} Ci-C ₂₂ -alkyl, Ci-C ₂₂ -Fluoralkyl or aryl, n K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -N-, -NH-,

-NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, N ^{2 is} a quaternary ammonium structure

- (R ⁸ ) N ⁺ (R ⁹ ) -

R ^{8 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ₂ o-hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,

R ⁹ R ⁸ or a single bond to K or R ⁸ , A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure

- [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) OIr q 1 to 200 r 0 to 200 and

R ¹⁶ H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrC ₂₀ -

Hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, or -C (O) - and

-OH can be substituted and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.

The possibility of a trivalent substructure for K means here that K can be branched and then participates with two bonds in the quaternization of N ² . The possibility of a divalent substructure for R ⁸ means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R ^{9 is} then a single bond to R ² .

R ⁸ is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁷ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁷ , in which R ¹⁷ denotes a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₈ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

As mentioned above, R ⁸ and R ⁹ may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas

CH ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ -CH ₂

/ \ / \

O CH

\ / \ /

CH ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ -CH ₂ form.

The preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds can be referred to the above statements. In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched one

C ₃ -C ₆ -hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ₁ -, -N-, -C (O) -,

-C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 is} as defined above.

Preferred for K are, for example, radicals of the following structures:

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - or

R ⁸ is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₆ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O), -C (S) - and substituted by -OH ,

R ¹⁶ is preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₈ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic or olefinic.

Furthermore, R ^{16 is} preferably C ₅ -C ₇ -alkyl, -CH ₂ CH = CH ₂ ,

-CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CCH, -C (O) CH ₃ , -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₃ . R ¹⁷ preferably represents unsubstituted C ₅ -C ₇ -hydrocarbon radicals which are derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₇ radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably to saccharidecarboxylic acids.

R is more preferably selected from the group

selected.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, n is preferably 0 to 200, more preferably 0 to 80, particularly preferably 10 to 80.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, q is preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20, and particularly preferably 2 to 10.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, r is preferably 0 to 100, and more preferably 0 to 50.

In the so-called second embodiment of the invention, r is preferably 0 to 20, and more preferably 0 to 10.

For the preparation of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention of the so-called second embodiment, reference is made to the statements on the first preferred embodiment.

A particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds a) as an essential constituent of the active substance complex according to the invention (which is referred to as so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (III): - [KSKN ³ Jm- (III )

where S, K and m are as defined above, N ^{3 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula

- (R ¹⁰ ) -N + (R ¹¹ ) - wherein R ^{10 is} a monovalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted by -OH or represents a single bond to K, R ¹¹ is -AER ² , wherein -AER ^{2 has} the abovementioned meaning.

Preferably, the polysiloxane compounds of the third embodiment are alkylene oxide-modified polyparternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (IN ^' ),

- [KSKN ³ ] m- (III ^' ), in which m is 2 to 500, S is -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ - With R ¹ Ci-C ₂₂ alkyl, C _r C ₂₂ fluoroalkyl or aryl, n = 0 to 1000, N ^{3 is} a quaternary ammonium structure

- (R ¹⁰ ) N ⁺ (R ¹¹ ) - where R ^{10 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ₃ o-hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,

-C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH or a

Single bond to K, R ³ -AE - is, with

A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- and E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of structure

- [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r -R ¹⁸ q from 1 to 200, r from 0 to 200,

R ^{18 is} H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ^ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic, and

K is a divalent or trivalent straight chain, cyclical or branched C ₂ -C _4O - hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, - NR ¹ -, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH or contains a quaternary ammonium structure N ⁵ , with N ⁵ in the meaning of - (R ¹⁹ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁰ ) -

R ^{19 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH or a single bond to R ¹⁰ , and R ^{20 is} -AE-, as defined above.

For the production of the preferred embodiments of the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, reference should be made explicitly to the published patent application WO 02/10257, as previously described.

R ¹⁰ and R ¹⁹ are independently of one another preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²¹ or - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²¹ , wherein R ^{21 is} a straight-chained, cyclic or branched d-cis hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O ) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

In one embodiment of the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, a bivalent substructure for R ¹⁰ is a cyclic system-forming structure wherein R ¹⁰ then has a single bond to K, preferably to a tertiary amino structure or to the quaternary structure N ⁵ over R ¹⁹ .

The preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes can be referred to the above statements.

R ¹⁰ is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₂₅ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can.

Preferably, R ^{19 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₂₅ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can. In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is furthermore preferably a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₃ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -N-, - C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ -,

wherein R ^{20 is} as defined above.

In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes, R ² or R ^{18 is} preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₈ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and -OH substituted and acetylenically or can be olefinic. More preferably R ² or R ^{18 is} C _r C ₆ -alkyl,

-CH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CCH, -C (O) CH ₃ or -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₃ .

R ²¹ is preferably an unsubstituted C ₅ -C ₇ -hydrocarbon radical which is derived from the corresponding fatty acids or has hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₇ radicals and is derived from the group of hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.

For example, R ²¹ is:

In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes, m is preferably 2 to 100, and more preferably 2 to 50, n is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80, q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50 particularly preferably 2 to 20, and more preferably q is 2 to 10, r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, more preferably 0 to 20, and even more preferably r is 0 to 10.

For the preparation of the polysiloxane compounds of the so-called third embodiment according to the invention to be used, reference is again made to the published patent application WO 02/10257.

A particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes (which is referred to below as the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes to be used according to the invention) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (IV):

- [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -AE-AV or - [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -A'-EA] _m - (IV)

wherein m, K, S, -AE-A ^' and -A ^' are as defined above, and

N ^{4 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R ¹² ) N ⁺ (R ¹³ ) - wherein R ^{12 is} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched dC ₂ o hydrocarbon radical; by -

O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH,

R ^{13 may have} the meanings of R ¹² , or represents a single bond to K or R ¹² , and the radicals R ¹² and R ^{13 may be the} same or different from each other.

The polysiloxane compounds of the fourth embodiment are preferably alkylene oxide-modified polyquartemäre polysiloxanes of the general formula (IV), - [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -AEA] m- (IV) where m = 2 to 500, S -Si (R ¹ ) 2 -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] -Si (R ¹ ) 2 - in which

R ¹ is C ¹ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C 1 -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000, K is a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched one

C ₂ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-,

-NR ¹ , -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, N is a quaternary ammonium structure - (R ¹² ) N ⁺ (R ¹³ ) -, wherein R is ^{12 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrC ₂₀ -

Hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and with -

OH can be substituted,

R ¹³ is R ¹² or a single bond to K or R ¹² , A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - _where q = 1 to 200 and r = 0 to 200 pointed out.

More preferred embodiments of this so-called fourth embodiment polysiloxanes of the formula (IV) or (IV) are described below.

The possibility of a trivalent substructure for K means that K can be branched and then be involved with two bonds in the quaternization of N ⁴ .

The possibility of a divalent substructure for R ¹² means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R ^{13 is} then a single bond to R ¹² .

R ¹² is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²² or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²² , wherein R ^{22 is} a straight-chain, cyclic or branched CrCl ₈ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH.

As mentioned above, R ¹² and R ¹³ may also together form a cyclic structure of

formulas

form.

For the preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, reference may be made to the above statements.

R ¹² is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₆ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can.

In the so-called fourth embodiment, K is preferably a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₃ -C ₆ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -N-, -C (O ) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - or

-CHaCH ₂ CH ₂ GCH ₂ CHCH ₂ -R

Preferably, R ^{22 is} an unsubstituted C ⁵ -C ¹⁷ hydrocarbon radical derived from the corresponding fatty acids or having hydroxylated C ³ -C ¹⁷ radicals which may be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.

More preferred is R ²² :

m is preferably 2 to 100, and particularly preferably 2 to 50. n is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80. q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50, and particularly preferably 2 to 20, more preferably q is 2 to 10. r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, and more preferably 0 to 20, more preferably r is 0 to 10.

The term "dC ₂₂ -alkyl or d-C 5 -hydrocarbon radical" as used above means in the context of the present invention aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or 1 to 30 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched. Examples which may be mentioned are methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl, and 1,2,3-trimethylhexyl.

The term "C _r C ₂₂ fluoroalkyl" as used above means in the context of the present invention aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom. Examples include monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoroethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2 trifluorobutyl listed.

The term "aryl", as used above, in the context of the present invention means unsubstituted or mono- or polysubstituted by OH, F, Cl, CF ₃ C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, C ₃ -C ₇ -cycloalkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl. The term may optionally also mean naphthyl.

A particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes according to the invention as component a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (hereinafter referred to as so-called fifth Embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V):

[-N -F ^ö ^ö ^η -N -Y-] _m wherein Y is a group of the formula -KSK- and -AE-A'- or -A'-EA,

wherein m, K, S, -AE-A 'and -A'-EA- are as defined above, the groups K, S, -AE-A'- and -A'-EA- within the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V) may be the same or different from each other, and the molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) of 100: 1 to 1: 100,

N ^{5 is} an ammonium group of the general formula - (R ²³ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁴ ) -, in which

R ^{23 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched dC ₂ o-hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH R ^{24 can be} hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, - C (O) -, C (S) - and substituted by -OH may be, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ²³ , and the radicals R ²³ and R ²⁴ within the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different, F ^{1 is} a bivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) - or - C (S) - or by a group -E-, where E is as above, and wherein a plurality of N ⁵ and F ^{1 may} each be the same or different from each other.

The molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A ^' or -A ^' -EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) is between 100: 1 and 1: 100. This molar ratio can, as in the publication WO 02/10257, by the choice of the molar ratio of the starting compounds, in particular the ratio of the invention preferably used (, - Halocarboxylic acid polyalkylene oxide ester compounds and the polysiloxane bisepoxide compounds are controlled. The properties of the products depend essentially on the ratio of the starting materials used, as well as the length of the polyalkylene oxide or polysiloxane blocks contained therein.

In a preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, K is a divalent hydrocarbon radical having at least 4 carbon atoms which has a hydroxyl group and which may be interrupted by an oxygen atom.

In a preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, F1 is a bivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -Cs ₀ hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - or may be interrupted by a group - E -, wherein E is as defined above, and wherein the carbon atoms resulting from the radical E are not counted among the 2 to 30 carbon atoms of the C ₂ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical ,

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention

-N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - a group of the formula:

-N (R ²⁵ R ²⁶ ) + - F ² -N (R ²⁵ R ²⁶ ) ⁺ - wherein

R ^{25 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, methyl is particularly preferred

R ^{26 is} a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and be substituted by -OH, particularly preferably methyl, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ²⁵ , and the radicals R ²⁵ and R ²⁶ within the group -N ⁵ -F ² -N ⁵ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other, and F ^{2 is} a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -.

In an even more preferred embodiment, F ^{2 is} a branched, preferably straight-chain, C 1 -C ₆ -alkanediyl group, of which a 1,6-hexanediyl (or hexamethylene) group is preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment, the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds

_N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - a group of the formula:

-N (R ²⁷ R ²⁸ ) ⁺ -F ³ -N (R ²⁷ R ²⁸ ) ⁺ - wherein

R ²⁷ and R ²⁸ are each hydrogen, C _r C ₆ alkyl or hydroxy (CrC ₆₎ alkyl preferably hydrogen, methyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, and

F ^{3 is} a divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical interrupted by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above.

F ³ is particularly preferably a group of the formula

Wherein E is as defined above and D is each a single bond or a straight or branched C ¹ -C ⁶ alkanediyl group, with the proviso that D is not a single bond when it binds to a terminal E group oxygen atom.

Preferably, the group -D-E-D- is replaced by a group of the formula

D- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _V (OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ )) _W -OD- wherein D is a straight or branched C 1 -C 6 alkanediyl group and r and q are as defined above. In the group

D- (OCH ₂ CH ₂₎ _C1 (OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃₎ XOD, the ethylene oxide and

Propylene oxide units may be arranged arbitrarily, e.g. as a random copolymer unit or as a block copolymer unit.

v is preferably 1 to 100, more preferably 1 to 70, still more preferably 1 to 40. w is preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 70, even more preferably 0 to 40.

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention, the group

-N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ by a group of the formula:

-N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ -F ² -N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ - and a group of the formula:

-N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ -F ³ -N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ - in which the substituents each have the above meanings.

This means that the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) are composed of two different types of the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ -.

In this embodiment, the molar ratio of the group

-N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ -F ² -N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ - to the group

-N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ -F ³ -N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ -

Suitably 70:30 to 95: 5, preferably 80:20 to 90:10.

The polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) may be cyclic or linear. In the case of the linear compounds, the terminal groups result either from the bifunctional monomers described below for the preparation or their functionalized derivatives or from monoamines which are added as chain terminators during the polymerization. The terminal groups resulting from the use of the monoamine chain-stopper are preferably present as ammonium groups, either by quaternization or protonation.

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, K is one of the groups of the formula: - (CHA) ₃ OCH ₂ CHCH ₂ '- (CH ₂ BGCB ₂ CB-

OII CH ₂ OH

In the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes q is preferably in the range from 1 to 50, in particular 2 to 50, especially 2 to 20 and especially 2 to 10, and r is in the range of 0 to 100, in particular 0 to 50, especially 0 to 20 and especially 0 to 10.

In the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention, the organic or inorganic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s) is expediently selected from inorganic radicals such as chloride, bromide, hydrogensulfate, sulfate, or organic radicals such as acetate, Propionate, octanoate, decanoate, dodecanoate, tetradecanoate, hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and oleate, wherein as mentioned above, chloride and bromide preferably result from the reaction of the alkyl halide groups with amine groups.

Furthermore, the polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment are present in protonated form as amine salts or as amines.

The polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment of the invention are conveniently prepared by one of the methods described in the laid-open specification WO 02/10257. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above can be obtained for example under the tradename Baysilone ^® from GE Bayer Silicones. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.

The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above are very particularly preferred in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight each based on the total composition.

The ratio of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds to a further synergistic active ingredient component selected from the group of polymers, the protein hydrolysates, the silicones, the vitamins and the plant extracts is generally 1: 1000 to 1: 2, preferably 1: 100 to 1: 2 , more preferably 1:50 to 1: 2, and most preferably 1:10 to 1: 2.

If a mixture of at least two silicones is used, this mixture is in the inventive compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .% And in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% Of silicone mixture based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible that the mixture of silicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of silicone mixture may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition. Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that a mixture of several fatty substances (D) from different classes of fatty substances, at least two different classes of fatty substances in the inventive

Compositions can be used. The preferred mixtures of at least two oil and fat components necessarily contain at least one further silicone component in this case. Preferably, the silicone component in this case is selected from the dimethiconols and the amodimethicones.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof (P).

Proteins and / or protein hydrolysates are able to significantly restructure the internal structure of fibers, especially keratinic fibers. Structural strengthening, that is to say restructuring in the context of the invention, is to be understood as meaning a reduction in the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to the most diverse influences. Here, for example, the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role. Restructured fibers are distinguished, for example, by an improved gloss or by an improved grip or by easier combing. In addition, they have an optimized strength and elasticity. A successful restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber. A detailed description of the method for determining the melting range of hair can be found in DE 196 173 95 A1.

Proteins and protein hydrolysates have been known for a long time and are widely used in cosmetics. Reference may be made to the relevant literature, for example in A. Domsch, "The Cosmetic Preparations", Volume II, page 205 and following, Publishing House for the chemical industry, H. Ziolkowsky. It has long been known to use proteins but also modified proteins to achieve care effects in cosmetic preparations. Either water-soluble proteins or proteins modified by chemical and / or enzymatic reactions, ie made water-soluble, are used for this purpose. In the case of the reactions to achieve adequate solubility in water, fibrous proteins often require such extensive degradation that the cosmetic effectiveness is no longer sufficient.

As a result, in particular an increase in the mildness and the skin compatibility but also, if desired, a fine creamy foam is achieved when using the compositions according to the invention. This foam, which is very fine in structure, creamy and extremely pleasant to the touch, is achieved in all compositions in which, in particular, surface-active substances are contained as further ingredients. The effectiveness of the composition according to the invention is further increased by the simultaneous use of polymers and / or penetration and swelling aids. In these cases, even after the application of the particular composition significantly more protein hydrolyzate or its derivative remains on the surface of the hair, resulting in an improved effect. The hair is thus significantly strengthened and smoothed in its structure. This effect is also clearly detectable with objective proofs of effectiveness such as, for example, the measurement of the combing forces of wet and dry hair, the measurement of the breaking forces or the measurement of the torsion angle on the skin. A confirmation of these results can also be found in the results of the consumer tests.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives according to the invention are termed protein hydrolysates Understood. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons. Of course, the present teaching according to the invention also encompasses that in the case of the amino acids, these may be present in the form of derivatives such as, for example, the N-acyl derivatives, the N-alkyl or the O-esters. In the case of the N-acyl derivatives, the acyl group is a formyl radical, an acetyl radical, a propionyl radical, a butyryl radical or the radical of a straight-chain, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of an N-alkyl derivative, the alkyl group may be linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated and has a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of O-esters, the alcohols on which the esterification is based are methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, isopentanol, hexanols, heptanols, caprylic or caproic alcohol, octanols, nonanols, decanols, dodecanols, lauranols, in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols having a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Of course, the amino acids can be simultaneously derivatized both at the N atom and at the O atom. Of course, the amino acids can also be used in salt form, in particular as mixed salts together with edible acids. This may be preferred according to the invention.

Examples of amino acids and their derivatives as protein hydrolysates according to the invention are: alanine, arginine, carnitine, creatine, cystathionine, cysteine, cystine, cystic acid, glycine, histidine, homocysteine, homoserine, isoleucine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, methionine, norleucine, norvaline , Ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, sarcosine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, thyronine, tyrosine, VaNn, aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid and glutamine. Preferred amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, proline, hydroxyproline serine and asparagine. Very particular preference is given to using alanine, glycine, histidine, Lysine, serine and arginine. Most preferably, glycine, histidine, lysine and serine are used.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

In particular, vegetable proteins and their hydrolyzates as well as derivatives in cosmetics have been used more and more frequently recently. For example, products based on wheat, oats, rice, corn, potatoes or soya are known. To the plants, which contain interesting active ingredients, belongs also the family of the Moringagewächse. These include about 14 species. One of them is Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma). Other species include Moringa drouhardii, Moringa concanensis or Moringa peregrina. The use of the oil of this species is known, for example, from US Pat. No. 6,667,047 B2. However, the use of an extract of the seed of Moringa oleifera is not yet known. Extraction of this seed with a water-glycerin mixture yields an extract consisting of proteins having a molecular weight of about 500 to 50,000 daltons. Such a protein is for example available under the trade name Puricare ^® LS 9658 by the company. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques commercially.

Moringa growths have been known since ancient times. Better known are plants of this species under their common name "Wunderbaum." They are preferably native to tropical areas.The various parts of this genus of plants have been used since ancient times, especially for medical purposes.From the seeds of the Moringa growths by a gentle extraction with water and This protein has a molecular weight of 500 to 50,000 daltons, preferably a protein extract with a molecular weight of 3000 to 30,000 daltons, most preferably from 5,000 to 15,000 daltons. The most preferred extract is obtained from the plant Moringa oleifera. Furthermore, the extract according to the invention naturally contains water and glycerol on account of the extraction. The content of extracted protein in the extract is 0.01 to 20% by weight. A content of protein of from 0.01 to 10% by weight is preferred. Particularly preferred is an extract with a protein content of 0.01 to 5 wt.%. Furthermore, at least 30% by weight of glycerol are contained in the extract. Finally, water is contained in the extract according to the invention.

In the cosmetic compositions, the above-described protein extract from the seeds of the Moringa growths is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight. Preferably, amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Very particularly preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition used.

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.

Beads of mussels consist essentially of inorganic and organic calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be easily obtained from cultivated mussels. The cultivation of the mussels can be done in fresh water as well as in sea water. This can affect the ingredients of the beads. According to the invention, preference is given to a pearl extract which originates from shells cultivated in marine or salt water. The pearls consist to a large extent of aragonite (calcium carbonate), conchiolin and an albuminoid. Latter Ingredients are proteins. Also included in beads are magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds, and phosphates.

To prepare the pearl extract, the beads are pulverized. Thereafter, the pulverized beads are extracted by the usual methods. As extraction agent for the preparation of the pearl extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are understood to mean both demineralized water and seawater. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water or sea water, preferably. Pearl extracts based on water / glycerine mixtures have proven to be particularly suitable. Depending on the extraction conditions, the pearl proteins (conchiloin and albuminoid) can be largely in the native state or already partially or largely present as protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to a pearl extract in which conchiolin and albuminoid are already partially hydrolyzed. The essential amino acids of these proteins are glutamic acid, serine, alanine, glycine aspartic acid and phenylalanine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, it may be advantageous if the bead extract is additionally enriched with at least one or more of these amino acids these amino acids. In the most preferred embodiment, the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine.

Furthermore, depending on the extraction conditions, in particular depending on the choice of extractant, a more or less large proportion of minerals and trace elements in the extract is found again. A preferred extract contains organic and / or inorganic calcium salts as well as magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates. A most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90% and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of the naturally occurring pearls. Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

In the cosmetic compositions, one of the above-described pearl extracts is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight. Preferably, amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Very particularly preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition used.

Another very special protein hydrolyzate is extracted from the silk.

Silk is a cosmetically very interesting fiber protein silk. By silk one understands the fibers of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin. As a cement substance, sericin holds this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents.

The essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt.% Hydroxyamino acids. The sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins. The essential amino acids of sericin are serine (Ser, 37% by weight), aspartate (Asp, 26% by weight), glycine (Gly, 17% by weight), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr) ,

The water-insoluble fibroin belongs to the skieroproteins with a long-chain molecular structure. The main components of the fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26% by weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight). Another important structural feature of the fibroin is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly.

Technically, it is possible in a simple manner to separate the two silk proteins from each other. It is therefore not surprising that both sericin and fibroin are known on their own as raw materials for use in cosmetic products. Furthermore, protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on the respective individual silk proteins are known raw materials in cosmetic products. For example Sericin as such by the company Pentapharm Ltd. sold as a commercial product called Sericin Code 303-02. Far more often, fibroin is offered as a protein hydrolyzate with different molecular weights in the market. These hydrolyzates are understood in particular as "silk hydroylates". Thus hydrolyzed fibroin is distributed with average molecular weights from 350 to 1000, for example, under the trade designation Promois ^® Siik. DE 31 39 438 A1 describes colloidal fibroin solutions as an additive in cosmetic products.

The positive properties of the silk protein derivatives of sericin and fibroin are known per se in the literature. Thus, the sales brochure of the company Pentapharm describes the cosmetic effects of sericin on the skin as soothing, hydrating and film-forming. The properties of a shampoo containing sericin as a caring component are described in "Ärztlichen Kosmetologie 17, 91-10 (1987)" by W. Engel et al. referenced. The effect of a fibroin derivative is described, for example, in DE 31 39 438 A1 as a caring and curative for the hair.

Preference according to the invention as active ingredients may be used: native sericin, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed SiIk, a mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their Methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture, the serine and / or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt.%, The aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10 to 40 wt.% And the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt.% Are included, with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably to 100 wt.% supplement, as well as their mixtures.

According to the invention can be used as active ingredients: native, converted into a soluble form fibroin, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as the main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly, the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala -Gly, a mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture the glycine and / or its derivatives in amounts of 20-60% by weight, the alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10-40% by weight, and the tyrosine and its derivatives in amounts of 0-25% by weight, with the proviso in that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably add up to 100% by weight, and mixtures thereof.

If both silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives are used simultaneously in the compositions according to the invention of the inventive composition, it may be preferred according to the invention that at least one of the two silk components, fibroin or sericin, is used in the native or, if appropriate, solubilized form. According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several silk protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof.

When a mixture of at least two silk hydrolyzates and / or their derivatives is used, it may be preferred according to the invention that the two silk protein hydrolysates are in the ratio of 10:90 to 70:30, in particular 15:85 to 50:50 and very particularly 20:80 be used to 40:60 based on their respective contents of active ingredient in the preparations of the invention.

The derivatives of sericin and fibroin hydrolysates include both anionic and cationized protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin according to the invention and the derivatives prepared therefrom can be prepared from the corresponding proteins by a chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic Hydrolysis, be obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or derivatives thereof, whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silicon, aminoacids, hydroxypropyltrimium hydrolyzed silica, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silica. As typical examples of the anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed silica, sodium lauroyl hydrolyzed silica or sodium stearoyl hydrolyzed silica. Finally, as typical examples of the derivatives of sericin and fibroin which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the products commercially available under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed SiIk and Hydrolyzed SiIk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol. Also useful in the present invention, although not necessarily preferred, are the commercially available products having the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1 , Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed SiIk. The compositions used according to the invention contain the silk protein hydroxysates and / or derivatives thereof in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P).

The protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. up to 5% by weight.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%. Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.

Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The skin, which naturally also includes the scalp, leaves behind the treatment with these very particularly preferred components a much better-looking, more vital, stronger impression with significantly improved gloss and a very good grip both in the wet and in the dry state. Furthermore, this drug affects the regeneration and restructuring of the affected skin and damaged hair, leads to a regulation of the fat balance, so that the thus treated skin and hair greases more slowly and not prone to over-greasing. In addition, this ingredient has an anti-inflammatory and skin-calming effect. Finally, the split hair is regenerated and repaired by these agents again. These ingredients are able to penetrate the hair and strengthen and repair the hair from the inside out. This "repair effect" can be demonstrated objectively by means of DSC measurements, for example, these effects can also be verified subjectively in the consumer test.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.

Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine) - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin) - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

- Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile become established. Biotin is preferred in the agents according to the invention Amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins,

Provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol,

Pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain antimicrobial compounds. Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for. B. cationic surfactants such. B. Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromid, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride or known as the amine fluoride N, N, IST tris (2-hydroxyethyl) - N ^' octadecyl-1, 3-diaminopropan-dihydrofluoride. Good are also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds such. B. the polyhexamethylene biguanide (Vantocil® IB, ICI) or the 1, 1 ^' hexamethylene bis (4-chlorophenyl) biguanide ("chlorhexidine") in the form of a water-soluble, compatible salt, e.g. In the form of the acetate or gluconate. Preferably, the antimicrobial 5-amino-hexahydropyrimidines, z. For example, the 1, 3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -5-methyl-5-amino-hexahydropyrimidine ("hexetidine"). Further preferably suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers. Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are z. B. the

6,6 ^'- methylene-bis- (2-bromo-4-chlorophenol) ( "bromochlorophene") and ^{^{2,4,4'-trichloro-2'}} - hydroxy-diphenyl ether ( "triclosan").

Further suitable antimicrobial substances are the p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters and sesquiterpene alcohols such. As the bisabolol, farnesol, Santalol or Nerolidol.

Finally, the use of plant extracts (L) in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further synergistic advantages. Therefore, the use of these substances is particularly advantageous. Such combinations cause inter alia a pleasant fragrance of both the cosmetic composition, as well as the skin treated therewith and the treated hair. In this case, it may even be possible to dispense with the addition of further perfume oils and fragrances.

Furthermore, this active ingredient according to the invention also has a favorable influence on the moisture balance of the skin and the hair. In addition, it shows an anti-inflammatory and skin-calming effect when, for example, chamomile or valerian are used. Stinging nettles, hops, birch and burdock roots, for example, show particularly good hair-related effects.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, Sage, rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, valerian, coffee, cocoa, moringa, hominy, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Especially suitable for the composition according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

According to the invention, it may be highly preferred if so-called Ayurvedic plant extracts are used as plant extracts. An ayurvedic plant extract is to be understood as any plant extract which has been prepared according to the principles of Ayurvedic teachings. The fundamentals of Ayurvedic teaching can be found in the so-called "Veda." In Ayurvedic treatment with ayurvedic extracts and oils, three different treatments are usually performed by Ayurvedic therapists.

Traditional Ayurvedic plants include Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala). For the purposes of the present invention, preference is given to cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala). Particularly preferred are cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala). Of course, the teachings of the invention also include that mixtures of at least two of the ayurvedic plant extracts are used in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be preferred if one of the ayurvedic plant extracts is bilwa.

Santalum album (Chandana) is one of the sandalwood plants. Sandalwood is understood to mean woods of the family Fabaceae as well as woods of the family Santalaceae. The Santalaceae family includes, for example, Santalum album, the Sandalwood tree. This supplies the white or yellow sandalwood. From the yellow sandalwood essential oils, the sandalwood, are obtained, which are also used in Western homeopathy in the case of urinary tract infections or kidney disease. In cosmetics, these essential oils are used exclusively as perfume oils or as components of perfume oil compositions. In particular, the steam extracted products are used as perfume oil ingredients.

Aegle Marmelos or Bilwa is a member of the Rutaceae family, which are related to citrus fruits. The tree is known in both Ayurvedic and Western homeopathic teaching. Bilwa is used especially in case of stomach ailments and diarrhea. In the compositions according to the invention, bilwa can help to improve the foaming behavior, such as foaming, foam volume, creaminess of the foam or the fine-poredness of the foam. At the same time, the necessary amount of surfactants and / or emulsifiers can be reduced. This in turn leads to a better compatibility of the respective cosmetic compositions. In particular, together with mild anionic surfactants, these effects of the Bilwa are achieved.

Cyperus rotundus (Nagar motha) is a grassy plant. In Ayurvedic medicine as well as in Greek medicine Cyperus rotundus has been used as an anti-inflammatory.

Emblica officinalis (Amalki) is one of the oldest Indian fruits. The fruits are exceptionally nutritious and contain large amounts of vitamin C, among other things. Since this fruit contains five of the six tastes of human taste perception, this fruit is considered the best fruit in Ayurvedic teachings and most useful for maintaining health and healing Considered diseases. Based on scientific research, it is known that this fruit contains unique tannins and flavonoids.

Morinda Citrifolia (Ashyuka) has been used to treat almost all diseases. In particular, however, high blood pressure, heart problems and diabetes were treated with it. Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi) is one of the succulents. In Ayurvedic medicine, the plant is used as an anti-inflammatory, against arthritis and allergies.

Crocus sativus (Kumkuma) is widely used in India. It is used especially in rice dishes. In the teachings of Ayurveda, it also serves as an aphrodisiac. Furthermore, it should have fever-lowering effects. In food it is used as a spice and for coloring foods.

Nelumbo nucifera is a lotus plant. Both in the Indian teachings of Ayurveda and in Chinese medicine, Lotus is described as a benefactor for the entire physique. Lotus is also the symbol of prosperity, beauty, wealth and fertility.

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum is used as a warming plant. It stimulates blood circulation, especially of the outer limbs such as fingers and feet. It is therefore also used for colds. It increases the bioavailability of other plant extracts. Furthermore, it is used as a spice for food and drinks. In the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, it may be particularly preferable to use Cinnamomum Zeylanikum as an Ayurvedic extract, if at the same time further plant extracts are to be used in the compositions according to the invention. This applies in particular to the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, sage, rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, valerian , Coffee, cocoa, moringa, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. All of these latter extracts have in common that they produce specific effects on the hair root. These effects are the promotion of the blood flow of the hair root, a scalp soothing effect, a hair follicle growth promoting effect, an anti-dandruff effect, and too fast greasing of the hairs to name only the essential effects. As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

In addition to the plant extracts, a rock crystal extract has also recently been used in cosmetic compositions. Rock crystal is a modification of silica. Silica itself is also included in many other clays and earths as a companion material. For example, quartz is found in bentonite. Quartz in the form of various silicates is also used, for example, in homeopathic remedies, for example sodium aluminum silicate for the reduction of heartburn or also in the medicine of Ayurveda. Sand, which can be contaminated with quartz, finds use in cleansing cosmetic products as exfoliating body. In addition, quartz has a mystical meaning. So the rock crystal is considered something special. The varieties of rock crystal, amethyst, smoky quartz, chrysoprase, citrine, morion or rose quartz are very much in demand as gemstones both as home decoration and as garment jewelery in many cultures. These crystals and minerals are a symbol of beauty, shine and riches. It has often been and is believed that these crystals have healing properties because they are water turned to stone. Other minerals containing amorphous or finely divided silica are the opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. In the following, quartz refers exclusively to the mineral, crystallized modifications of the quartz understood which satisfy the structural formula SiO ₂ and are free of impurities. Contaminants are not understood to mean the traces of other elements embedded in them, which contribute to the color of the rose quartz, for example. Under no circumstances are the term "quartz" understood silicates, phyllosilicates, talcs, spades, etc. In particular, the term "quartz" understood and can be used according to the invention: quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, rock crystal, smoky quartz, Amethyst, chrysoprase, citrine, morion, rose quartz, opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. Preference is given to quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal, rose quartz and agate. Very particular preference is given to using smoke quartz, rose quartz and rock crystal. Most preferred is rock crystal.

Finely ground quartz and an extract of finely ground quartz is used in cosmetic compositions to give the skin and hair a velvety, soft, pleasant feeling. Furthermore, the gloss of skin and hair is remarkably increased significantly. However, there is no undesirable stress on the skin and hair. Also on the hair subsequent treatments such as cold wave or dyeing processes are not only not adversely affected but there is no impairment.

The finely ground quartz, the quartz powder, is obtained by conventional methods for comminution and grinding of rocks. Quartz powder is used especially in particle sizes from 0.5 μm up to 500 μm. Particular preference is given to particle sizes of from 0.5 to 250 μm, very particularly preferably from 10 μm to 200 μm. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the finely-milled quartz is extracted by means of protic solvents and the resulting quartz extract is used in the cosmetic compositions. Also in this embodiment, quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, rock crystal, smoky quartz, amethyst, chrysoprase, citrine, morion, rose quartz, opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint are used as starting materials used for the production of a flour and the subsequent extraction to the "quartz extract". Preferably used are quartz, smoky quartz, Rock crystal, rose quartz and agate. Very particular preference is given to using smoke quartz, rose quartz and rock crystal. Most preferred is rock crystal.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said quartz extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are to be understood here as demineralized water, as well as seawater and mineral water. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, iso-butanol, tert. Butanol, pentanols, hexanols or heptanols, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerols and glycols, especially glycol, diglycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol both as the sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water, mineral water or Seawater, preferred. Extracts based on water and polyhydric alcohols in the ratio 1: 50 to 50: 1 have proved to be suitable according to the invention. A ratio of 1: 25 to 25: 1 is preferred. Particularly preferred is a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Most preferred is a ratio of 1: 5 to 5: 1, with a ratio of water to polyhydric alcohol of 3: 1 to 1: 1 being most preferred. The invention also includes the teaching that, of course, a plurality of alcohols and / or polyhydric alcohols can be used as extractant in admixture with water. Under mineral water is to understand water, which comes naturally from mineralized sources. For example, the mineral waters include Evian, SpA, Leau de Vichy, etc. As the extraction method, any known methods such as hot extraction or other methods may be used. A quartz extract thus obtained usually contains at least 1 to 100,000 ppm of silicon. Preferred is an extract with a minimum amount of silicon of 10 ppm. Particularly preferred is an extract with a content of silicon of at least 50 ppm. Very particular preference is given to an extract with a content of at least 100 ppm. Most preferred is a content of at least 200 ppm silicon. The amount of silicon in the extract is determined by flame spectrometry in distilled water. The quartz extract may optionally be adjusted with water glass to a constant minimum content of silicon. If water glass is used to set a constant silicon content, it may still be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract. The quartz extract usually has a pH of 4-11, preferably 6-11, more preferably 7-10 and most preferably 7.5-9.5. Should it be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract, the pH value will be adjusted with mineral acids such as aqueous solutions of hydrogen halides, sulfuric acid and its salts, sulphurous acid and its salts, phosphorous acid and its salts, phosphoric acid and salts thereof or with organic acids Acids and their salts such as iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid made. The adjustment of the pH of the quartz extract with acids, which also have complex-forming properties, may be preferred. These include, for example, phosphoric acid, iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts. Very particular preference is given to using phosphoric acid in the case of a necessary pH adjustment. An example of a commercially available quartz extract is available under the name Crodarom ^® rock crystal by Croda free in the trade.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and derivatives thereof, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydroxides. gencarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol , 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

Finally, experimental findings show that the compositions according to the invention are particularly well suited to deposit perfume oils or perfumes on the skin and hair in an increased amount. At the same time the perfume oils and fragrances remain much longer on the skin or the hair adhere. This leads to an increased acceptance of such compositions in the consumer. These results are particularly relevant to compositions such as shampoos, Shower baths, cures, spa packs, conditioners, leave-on hair treatments, styling agents as well as hair fixating and firming agents.

Another group of very particularly preferred ingredients of the compositions of the invention are perfumes. The excellent and completely surprising positive results of compositions containing the active compounds and perfumes according to the invention has already been described in detail above.

The term perfume means perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances. As perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.

Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme, chamomile ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, pines), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).

Furthermore, animal raw materials come into question, such as civet and Castoreum.

Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are ester type products, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzylformate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, cyclohexylsalicylate, floramate, melusate, jasmecyclate and benzylsalicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones such as the ionone, ° <-lsomethylionon and Methylcedrylketon, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, pheny- ethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams such as limonene and pinene.

Preferably, however, mixtures of different fragrances are used, which together produce an attractive fragrance. Also, lower volatility volatile oils, which are most commonly used as aroma components, are useful as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange blossom oil, orange peel oil, sandalwood oil, neroliol allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal , Lavandin oil, muscat sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix coeur, iso-E-super, fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeine gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, used.

Further examples of fragrances which may be present in the compositions according to the invention are found, for example, in US Pat. In S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials, Vol. I and II, Montclair, NJ, 1969, Selbstverlag or K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3 ^rd . Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997.

In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, with molecular weight also playing an important role in addition to the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of a perfume or fragrance composed of several fragrances changes during evaporation, whereby the odor impressions in "top note", "middle note or body" and "base note" (end note or dry out) Since the perception of smell is largely based on the odor intensity, the top note of a perfume or fragrance is not alone from volatile compounds, while the base note for the most part consists of less volatile, ie adherent fragrances.

Adhesive-resistant fragrances which are advantageously usable in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, Arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannenöl, Edeltannenzapfenapfen, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, gingergrass oil , Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copaϊva balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, cumin oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, lemon balm oil , Musk Grain Oil, Myrrh Oil, Clove Oil, Neroli Oil, Niaouli Oil, Olibanum Oil, Orange Oil, Origanum Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Patchouli Oil, Peru Balsam Oil, Petitgrain Oil, Pepper Oil, Peppermint Oil, Pimento Oil, Pine Oil, Rose Oil, Rosemary Oil, Sandalwood Oil, Celery Oil, Spik Oil, Star Aniseed Oil, Turpentine Oil, Thuja l, thyme oil, verbena, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon leaf oil, citronella oil, lemon oil, and cypress oil.

But the higher-boiling or solid fragrances of natural or synthetic origin can be used in the context of the present invention advantageously as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, ie fragrances. These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol, Bornyl acetate, bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin,

Heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone di-methyl ether,

Hydroxycinnamaldehyde, Hydroxyzimtalcohol, Indole, Iron, Isoeugenol,

Isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmone, camphor, karvakrol, karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, cu-marine, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikole, p- Methylquinoline, methyl naphthyl ketone, methyl n-nonyl acetaldehyde, methyl n-nonyl ketone, muscone, naphthol ethyl ether, naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxy-acetophenone, pentadecanolide, Phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyacetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, isoamyl salicylate, methyl salicylate, hexyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymine, thymol, undelactone, vaniline, veratrumaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, ethyl cinnamate, cinnamic acid cinnamate.

Among the more volatile fragrances which can be used advantageously in the context of the present invention, in particular the lower-boiling fragrances include natural or synthetic origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures. Examples of more readily volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.

All of the aforementioned fragrances can be used alone or in a mixture according to the present invention with the advantages already mentioned.

If the boiling points of the individual fragrances are substantially below 300 ^° C., then a preferred embodiment of the invention is present, wherein preferably at least 50% of the fragrances contained have a boiling point below 300 ^° C., advantageously at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%. , in an even more advantageous manner at least 80%, in an extremely advantageous manner at least 90%, in particular even 100%.

Boiling points below 300 ^° C. are advantageous because the fragrances in question would have too low a volatility at higher boiling points. However, in order to be able to "flow out" of the particle at least partially and to develop fragrance, a certain volatility of the fragrances is advantageous. It has previously been observed that some unstable perfume ingredients are sometimes poorly compatible with carrier material and, upon incorporation into the carrier, at least partially decompose, especially if the carrier is a porous mineral carrier, such as clay, or zeolite, especially dehydrated and / or activated zeolite. Unstable fragrances for the purposes of this invention can be identified by incorporating a perfume composition comprising at least 6 fragrances into activated / dehydrated zeolite X and storing the resulting sample for 24 hours at room temperature. Then the fragrances are extracted with acetone and analyzed by gas chromatography to determine the stability. A fragrance is considered to be unstable in the context of this invention, if at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 65 wt .-%, advantageously at least 80 wt .-%, in particular at least 95 wt .-% of this perfume decomposed into degradation products, and in the extraction can not be provided again.

Is in the inventive agent less than 15 wt .-%, preferably less than 8 wt .-%, advantageously less than 6 wt .-%, more preferably less than 3 wt .-%, of unstable perfume, based on the total Amount of perfume ad / absorbed in / on the particle, there is a preferred embodiment of the invention, wherein the unstable perfume in particular the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols, esters of tertiary alcohols, allylic ketones, condensation products of amines and aldehydes, Acetals, ketals and mixtures of the foregoing.

If the perfume adsorbed in / on the particle ad / at least 4, advantageously at least 5, in a further advantageous manner at least 6, more preferably at least 7, even more preferably at least 8, preferably at least 9, in particular at least Contains 10 different fragrances, so is a preferred embodiment of the invention. When the logP value of the perfume components adsorbed in / on the particle ad / is substantially at least 2, preferably at least 3 or greater, so that at least 40%, advantageously at least 50%, more preferably at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, in particular 90% of the perfume components fulfill this log requirement, then a preferred embodiment of the invention is present.

The logP value is a measure of the hydrophobicity of the perfume components. It is the decadic logarithm of the partition coefficient between n-octanol and water. The octanol / water partition coefficient of a perfume ingredient is the ratio between its equilibrium concentrations in water and octanol. A perfume ingredient with higher partition coefficient P is more hydrophobic. The stated conditions for the logP are advantageous because it ensures that the fragrances can be better retained in the pores of the support material and also better on objects which are treated with the particles (for example, indirectly by treatment with a detergent formulation, which comprises the particles according to the invention) precipitate. The logP value of many perfume ingredients is given in the literature; For example, the Pomona 92 database, available from Daylight Chemical Information Systems, Inc. (Daylog CIS) of Irvine, California, contains many such values along with references to the original literature. The logP values can also be calculated, for example, with the "CLOG P" program of the aforementioned company Daylight CIS. For calculated logP values, one usually speaks of ClogP values Clog P values should also be used for hydrophobicity estimation if there are no experimental logP values for certain perfume constituents.

If desired, the perfume can also be combined with a perfume fixative. It is believed that perfume fixatives can slow the exhalation of higher volatile fractions of perfume. According to a further preferred embodiment, the perfume which is adsorbed in / on the carrier material comprises a perfume fixative, preferably in the form of diethyl phthalates, musk (derivatives) and mixtures thereof, the fixative amount preferably being from 1 to 55% by weight. , Advantageously, 2 to 50 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 45 wt .-%, in particular 20 to 40 wt .-% of the total amount of perfume.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the particles contain a viscosity of liquids, in particular perfume-increasing agent, preferably PEG (polyethylene glycol), advantageously having a molecular weight of 400 to 2000, wherein the viscosity increasing agent in a preferred manner in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, advantageously from 0.15 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.25 to 3 wt .-% is contained, based on the particles.

It has been found that the viscosity of liquids, especially perfume-raising agents, further contribute to the stabilization of the perfume in the particle when nonionic surfactant is present at the same time.

The viscosity-increasing agents are preferably polyethylene glycols (PEG for short) which can be described by the general formula I:

H- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) n -OH (I),

in the degree of polymerization n of about 5 to> 100,000, corresponding to molecular weights of 200 to 5,000,000 gmol-1, may vary. The products with molecular weights below 25,000 g / mol are referred to as actual polyethylene glycols, while higher molecular weight products are often referred to in the literature as polyethylene oxides (PEOX for short). The polyethylene glycols preferably used may have a linear or branched structure, with particular preference being given to linear polyethylene glycols and end-capped. The particularly preferred polyethylene glycols include those having molecular weights between 400 and 2000. It can be used in particular also polyethylene glycols, which are present in a liquid state at room temperature and a pressure of 1 bar; Here is mainly of polyethylene glycol with a molecular weight of 200, 400 and 600 the speech.

The perfumes are generally added in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total composition, of the total composition.

The perfumes may be added to the compositions in liquid form, neat or diluted with a solvent for perfuming. Suitable solvents for this purpose are, for. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate, etc.

Furthermore, the perfumes for the compositions of the invention may be adsorbed to a carrier which provides both a fine distribution of the fragrances in the product and a controlled release in use. Such carriers can be porous inorganic materials such as light sulfate, silica gels, zeolites, gypsum, clays, clay granules, aerated concrete, etc., or organic materials such as woods and cellulosic based materials.

The perfume oils for the compositions according to the invention can also be microencapsulated, spray-dried, present as inclusion complexes or as extruded products and added in this form to the compositions to be perfumed.

Optionally, the properties of the perfume oils modified in this way can be further optimized by so-called "coating" with suitable materials with a view to a more targeted release of fragrance, for which purpose preferably wax-like plastics, such as, for example, As polyvinyl alcohol can be used. The consumer, in the perception of the cosmetic compositions, in particular caused by a aesthetically appealing packaging, optionally in conjunction with aromatic fragrances, may associate the composition of the invention with a stimulant such as confectionery or beverages. By this association, in particular in children, oral ingestion or swallowing of the cosmetic composition can not be ruled out in principle. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, the compositions according to the invention contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion. Bitter substances which are soluble in water at 20 ^° C. to at least 5 g / l are preferred according to the invention.

With regard to an undesirable interaction with optionally contained in the cosmetic compositions fragrance components, in particular a change in perceived by the consumer fragrance, the ionogenic bitter substances have proved the nonionic superior, lonogenic bittering agents, preferably consisting of organic (s) cation (s) and organic (s) Anion (s), are therefore preferred for the inventive preparations.

Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances. One such compound is commercially available for example under the trademark Bitrex ^® and Indige-stin ^® available benzyldiethyl ((2,6-Xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.

The bittering agent is contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the molding. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.

Advantageous in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) can be used as an ingredient in the active ingredient complex (A). Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood as meaning carboxylic acids which are saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

One use of the short-chain carboxylic acids is the adjustment of the pH of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. The composition according to the invention, in conjunction with a short-chain carboxylic acid, leads to improved skin smoothness and to an improved skin structure and a smoothed hair structure.

In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also includes the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts. In addition, however, neutralized acids can also be used with alkaline amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine. The sodium, potassium, ammonium and arginine salts are preferred salts. Furthermore, for reasons of formulation it may be preferable to select the carboxylic acid as active ingredient from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

The very particularly preferred short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention include the hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids.

Examples of particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, glyceric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that these acids in Form of mixed salts, for example with amino acids. This may be preferred according to the invention. Examples of amino acids which can be used as mixed salts with these hydroxycarboxylic acids are carnitine, taurine, isidine, lysine, arginine and ornithine. A typical representative of the mixed salts according to the invention is, for example, carnitine tartrate.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several active substances of this group.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl, Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in α - position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, Glyoxylic, adipic, pimelic, suberic, azelaic, sebacic, propiolic, crotonic, isocrotonic, elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, Bicarbaminsäure, 4,4 ^{^{'-Dicyano-6,6'}} -binicotinsäure, 8- Carbamoyloctansäure, 1, 2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1, 2,4,6,7-Napthalinpentaessigsäure, Malonic acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by compounds of general formula (NI),

in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) are known in the literature.

A production process can be found, for example, in US Pat. No. 3,753,968. German Patent 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap masses. German Offenlegungsschrift 28 33 291 discloses deodorizing agents which contain zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids. Finally, from German Patent Application 35 03 618 means for washing and rinsing the hair are known in which by adding these dicarboxylic acids a noticeably improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the means is obtained. Finally, from the German Offenlegungsschrift 197 54 053 means for hair treatment known, which have nourishing effects.

The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. Usually one will assume a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component. Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils. As the monocarboxylic acid component, in particular, acrylic acid, but also e.g. Methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred. Normally, in the case of reactions according to Diels-Alder, mixtures of isomers are formed in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be used according to the invention as well as the pure compounds.

In addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to formula (N-I), those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds according to formula (NI) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition of a Molecule water are formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^® ^® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also includes the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts. However, in the context of the invention, neutralized acids can very particularly preferably be used with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine. It can continue for formulation reasons, it is preferable to select the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together in the compositions. It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

According to the invention, it is very particularly preferred to use the so-called edible acids as short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention.

These active compounds according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight. up to 5% by weight.

A particularly diverse and interesting cosmetic active ingredient group are polyhydroxy compounds. The inventive use of

Polyhydroxy compounds as active ingredient with the other components of the invention may therefore be particularly preferred. Under polyhydroxy compounds in the For the purposes of the invention, all substances are understood which fulfill the definition in Römpp ^'s Lexikon der Chemie, 1999 edition, published by Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood as meaning organic compounds having at least two hydroxyl groups.

In particular, for the purposes of the present invention, this is to be understood as meaning:

Polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups, such as, for example, trimethylolpropane,

Ethoxylates and / or propoxylates with 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide of the aforementioned polyols,

Carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and their salts, in particular monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and -OH and -NH protecting groups known in the literature, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters,

Aminodeoxysugars, deoxysugars, thiosugars, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH and -NH-protecting groups, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore Form of the methyl ethers and may be present as phosphate esters,

Very particular preference is given here to monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms, such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH - protecting groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters.

Also preferred are oligosaccharides having up to 50 monomer units, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH and -NH - protecting groups, such as Triflatgruppe, the trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and also in the form of the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester may be present.

Examples of the polyols according to the invention include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xyNt, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose , Altrose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, rutinose, raffinose and cellotriose , Furthermore, reference is made to the relevant specialist literature such as Beyer-Walter, textbook of organic chemistry, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19th edition, section III, pages 393 and following.

Preferred polyhydroxy compounds are sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, threitol, erythrose, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, fructose, sorbose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and cellobiose , Particular preference is given to using glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, sucrose, lactose, maltose and cellobiose. However, the use of glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, sucrose, lactose, maltose or cellobiose is very particularly preferred

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the active ingredient is at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups. Among these compounds, those having 2 to 12 OH groups, and especially those having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.

Polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are, for example, glycol (CH ₂ (OH) CH ₂ OH) and other 1, 2-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n -CH (OH) CH ₂ OH where n = 1, 2, 3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Also 1,3-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n - CH (OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 can be used according to the invention. The (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used. Important representatives of polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols.

Among the polyhydroxy compounds having 3 OH groups, glycerin is of outstanding importance.

In summary, compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the polyhydroxy compound is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, glucose, fructose, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, XyNt and their mixtures.

Regardless of the type of polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups used, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of polyhydroxy compound (s).

With particular preference, the agents according to the invention may additionally comprise polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV)

H (CH ₂ ) _k (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH (IV)

in which k is a number between 1 and 18, with particular preference given to the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference given to the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 , 10, 12 and 14 means. Preferred among these are the alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahylene glycol, hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol and tetradecaethylene glycol, and the alkyl derivatives of dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol, pentapropylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol and tetradecapropylene glycol, among these, the methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred.

It has been found that mixtures of "short chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers with such "long chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers have advantages. Particular preference is given to mixtures of polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 5 or less with polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 7 or more Preferred mixtures of alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, Triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahydylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol or pentapropylene glycol with alkyl derivatives of hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol , the decapropylene glycol, the dodecapropylene glycol or the tetradecapropyolene glycol, in both cases the n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives being preferred ,

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV a) of the formula (IV) in which n is the number 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV b) of the formula (IV) in which n represents the numbers 10, 12, 14 or 16, wherein the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 7.5: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 5 : 1 to 1: 1.

Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 C atoms in the molecular skeleton. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated. The hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably terminally adjacent or terminally separated from one another by the remainder of the chain. Examples of these polyols are: glycol, polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ether with a Molecular weight up to 1000 daltons, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1, 2, 4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1 , 2-cyclohexanediol, heptanediols, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,7-heptanediol, octanediols, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, octadienols, decadienols, dodecanediols , 1, 2-Dodekandiol, 1, 12-Dodekandiol, 1, 12-Dodekandiol with 10 moles of EO, dodecadienols.

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers, epimers, anomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several polyhydroxy compounds.

The polyhydroxy compounds according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight. up to 10% by weight.

Other optional ingredients that can be used in cosmetic compositions are preservatives. Preservatives used are the substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the European Cosmetics Regulation. Particularly preferred is mild preservation, ideally without the addition of typical preservatives. In general, the following substances and their mixtures are used:

aromatic alcohols, such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyisopropanol,

Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde Parabens, for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben

1, 2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 2- hexadecanediol,

Formaldehyde-releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea

Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones such as methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone, triclosan, triclocarban, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, chlorhexidine digluconate and chlorhexidine acetate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, methyldibromoglutaronitrile,

Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and borates, bisulfites,

Cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, polyaminopropyl biguanide,

- Organic acids and their physiologically acceptable salts such as citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid

Active ingredients with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine,

Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butylhydroquinone,

Complexing agents such as EDTA and its derivatives, HEDTA and its derivatives, Etidronic Acid and its salts,

As well as mixtures of the substances listed above.

In a further particularly preferred type of the compositions according to the invention, the water activity in the compositions according to the invention can also be reduced to such an extent that a growth of Microorganisms can no longer take place. In particular, glycerol and sorbitol are used for this purpose.

The compositions according to the invention contribute to the preservation being possible in an outstanding manner with the mild preservative additives. But the complete abandonment of preservatives is possible and preferred according to the invention.

The amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt.%, Preferably from 0 to 2 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0 to 1 wt.% And most preferably from 0 to 0.8 wt.% Based on the total amount of the composition ,

Further optional ingredients of the compositions of the invention are Deowirkstoffe. Deodorants can not only be used in deodorants to prevent underarm sweating. They can also be used in skin care products to influence sweat on other skin areas. This includes, for example, the scalp.

The inventive compositions significantly increase analytically detectable the deposition of deodorant substances on the skin and hair. In the panel test, this is also noticeable through a significantly prolonged effect.

As Deowirkstoffe esterase inhibitors can be added. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, COGNIS). The substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odors. The cleavage of the citric acid ester is likely to release the free acid, which lowers the pH on the skin to the extent that it inhibits the enzymes. Further substances which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, Hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate. Antibacterial agents that affect the bacterial flora and kill sweat-degrading bacteria or inhibit their growth may also be included in the stick formulations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5-chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol, which is marketed under the trade name Irgasan® by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proved to be particularly effective.

The composition of the invention may further be used in coloring agents. In these coloring agents are of course included as further ingredients dye precursors.

Further very particularly preferred optional ingredients of the compositions are therefore dye precursors. Among dye precursors are developer-X1 and coupler-type (X2) oxidation dye precursors, natural and synthetic substantive dyes (Y) and precursors of naturally-occurring dyes such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of one or more of these groups

As such, developer (X1) and coupler type (X2) oxidation dye precursors, natural and synthetic direct dyes (Y) and natural analog dye precursors such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of one or more of these groups may be used ,

As developer-type oxidation dye precursors (X1) are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4, 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diamino-phenoxy) -ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy -2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-dia- minopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, bis (4-aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2 Hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2 - ((diethylamino) -methyl) -phenol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, 1, 4-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -diazacycloheptane, 1,3-bis (N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N (4-aminophenylamino)) - 2-propanol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 1, 10-bis- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecan and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives according to EP 0 740 741 and WO 94/08970 such. B. 4,5-diamino-1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2 , 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

As coupler-type oxidation dye precursors (X2), m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are usually used. Examples of such coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4 - aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3- (ethylamino) - 4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as, for example, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-dinaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1 methylbenzene and 1-amino-3-bis- (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3- Diamino-1-methylbenzene, di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1, 2,4- Trihydroxybenzene, pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3 , 4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6- methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene , 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-amino-benzomorpholine, quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl -1, 2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3, 4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene.

Particularly suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1, 4-bis- (β- hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2- Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

Directly acting dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkana root. It is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the hair colorants according to the invention, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, must be excluded.

For example, indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts are used as precursors of naturally-analogous dyes. Preference is given to using those indoles and indolines which have at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N- Propyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Particularly noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole dihydroxyindole.

The indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg. As the Hydrochlori- de, sulfates and hydrobromides, are used.

When using dye precursors of the indoline or indole type, it may be preferable to combine them with at least one amino acid and / or at least to use an oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids. Among the α-aminocarboxylic acids, in turn, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are particularly preferred. A very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.

Both the oxidation dye precursors and the substantive dyes and the precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition, contain.

The advantage achieved by the composition according to the invention in conjunction with the dye precursors is a markedly improved deposition of the dye precursors on the hair. In addition to increased deposition on the hair, the composition of the invention also results in faster penetration into the hair. Furthermore, the desired hair color is formed faster. The application time of the composition can be shortened by at least 10% with the same dyeing result. A shortening of the application time is possible with the combination according to the invention up to 40% with the same dyeing result. All of these effects are achieved with a simultaneously increased wash resistance of the formed hair color. The invention includes the teaching that on the other hand, the concentration of dyes can be significantly reduced due to the effects achieved. On the one hand, this is economically very important, but on the other hand, this also means a considerable improvement in the dermatological compatibility of the entire composition.

A further advantage of the compositions according to the invention containing the active ingredient complex according to the invention consists in the reduction of the damage of the keratinic fibers before, during or after the use of oxidizing agents during the dyeing process and / or the corrugating process of the keratinic fibers. The composition according to the invention containing the inventive

In principle, active ingredient combination can be applied to the keratinized fibers before the actual dyeing and / or corrugation process and after a contact time be rinsed from a few minutes to 30 minutes, then followed by the actual dyeing and / or well process. However, it is also possible and preferred according to the invention if the composition according to the invention containing the combination of active substances according to the invention is applied together with the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent to the keratinic fibers and rinsed again after an exposure time of up to 45 minutes. In the case of a well process, it is also possible and preferred according to the invention if the composition according to the invention containing the active ingredient combination, together with the oxidizing agent following the reduction step, optionally after the completion of a further rinsing step for the complete removal of the reducing agent, to the keratinic Fibers is applied and rinsed after a contact time of up to 45 minutes again. In a third variant of the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprising the active ingredient according to the invention may also be formulated in complex form as a pure aftertreatment agent and be used following an oxidative dyeing process and / or a corona treatment on the keratinic fibers.

A very particularly preferred composition of the invention therefore relates to cosmetic compositions for fixing keratinic fibers following a preceding reduction step in the context of carrying out a coring process on keratinic fibers containing the compositions according to the invention and an oxidizing agent, as well as the use of these compositions and a method for carrying out the same a corrugating process on keratinic fibers with the aid of these compositions comprising the active ingredient according to the invention complex and an oxidizing agent. According to the invention, this also encompasses the fact that the active ingredient according to the invention is applied in complex form even before the application of the fixing composition according to the invention both as a separate composition and via the composition containing the reducing agent itself to the keratinic fibers.

A very particularly preferred composition of the invention therefore relates to cosmetic agents for coloring the skin and hair, containing the inventive Compositions and a dye precursor, as well as the use of this agent and a method for hair coloring or refreshing the hair coloring with this agent.

Hair dyes, especially if the dyeing is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually weakly acidic to alkaline, d. H. adjusted to pH values in the range of about 5 to 11. For this purpose, the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group. The use of ω-amino acids such as ω-aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.

If the formation of the actual hair dyes takes place in the context of an oxidative process, conventional oxidizing agents, in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine or sodium borate can be used. However, oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant may be preferred. Furthermore, it is possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes, which enzymes are used both for the production of oxidizing per-compounds and for enhancing the action of a small amount of existing oxidizing agents, or enzymes are used, the electrons from suitable developer components ( Reductant) transferred to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase are preferred. Furthermore, the procedure is called to increase the effect of small amounts (eg, 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.

Conveniently, the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately prior to dyeing the hair. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 10. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium. The application temperatures may range between 15 and 40 ^° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After a contact time of about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.

Especially with hair that is difficult to dye, the preparation with the dye precursors can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, if appropriate after an intermediate rinse. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes, the product is then rinsed and, if desired, shampooed again. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the previous application of the dye precursors is intended to effect a better penetration into the hair, the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to a second variant, an air oxidation is initially desired, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10. In the subsequent accelerated post-oxidation, the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions may be preferred as the oxidizing agent.

Furthermore, the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent. Such metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Particularly suitable are Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of the dyeing can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

Dyes which are used to stain the compositions may be those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, Wise in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" of the Dye Commission of the Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, p.81-106 are compiled. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture.

The pH of the preparations according to the invention can in principle be between 2 and 11. The pH is selected and adjusted very selectively depending on the purpose and use of the composition according to the invention. For colorants, for example, it is preferably between 5 and 11, values of 6 to 10 being particularly preferred. For cleaning compositions it is for example between 4 and 7.5, preferably between 4 and 6.

To adjust this pH, virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

Usually, acids are used as acids. By-acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of the usual food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Eat acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.

It has furthermore been found that the action of the active ingredient according to the invention in the compositions according to the invention can be further increased in combination with substances which contain primary or secondary amino groups. Examples of such amino compounds include ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine or histidine. Of course, these amines can also be used in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids, such as, for example, ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride. The amines are used with the active compound according to the invention in ratios of from 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, and very particularly preferably in stoichiometric amounts.

Protic solvents, such as, for example, water, and alcohols can also be present in the compositions according to the invention. The alcohols used are all physiologically unsuitable alcohols, for example methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof with one another. The proportion of protic solvents in each case complements the composition according to the invention to 100 parts by weight. At least 30% by weight of protic solvents, particularly preferably at least 50% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 75% by weight, and most preferably at least 85% by weight, protic solvents are preferably present in the cosmetic compositions.

Furthermore, in a very particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the UV filters (I) can be used. The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsilicylate (homosalates ), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^®, ^® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazoles sulfonic acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methane-sulfonic acid) and their salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene ) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-methylaminobenzoic acid di- 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol 507 ^® , Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan OS ^®, Uvinul ^® 018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan e 1000 ^®), 4-methoxycinnamic acid -2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb ^® S 5), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methyl benzylic dene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-Benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 ' -oxi) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1; (Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic benzoic acid menthyl; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400) 1, 1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydropyran droxybenzophenon (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy-benzophenone ( Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2. 1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2 Oxoborn-3-ylidene) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2 ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4 , 6-tri-anilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and their Ethyl esters, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4- methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. For the purposes of the invention, water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ^° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is protected by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function, is replaced. Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, Diphenylacrylic acid ester, cinnamic acid ester, salicylic acid ester, benzimidazole and o-aminobenzoic acid ester.

Structural parts U, which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide, are preferred according to the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. Preferably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _X -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^" , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently of one another ₄ alkyl groups, R ³ is a Ci _-22- alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either one Methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ^® UV 283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabicum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, celulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. As polyvinyl alcohol, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example, soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,

Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of between 12 and 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, isobutyl Pentyl n-octyl ethers and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ethers, fiber-structure-improving active compounds, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,

Phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

- active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol, cholesterol,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid and salts thereof, Etidronic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments,

Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

- antioxidants.

With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. the monograph by K. H. Schrader referenced.

Another object of the present invention is a method for hair treatment, in which the composition according to the invention is incorporated into the wet hair, and the composition after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes with cold up to about 40 ⁰ C warm water again is rinsed, optionally, the hair is dried with a towel, then a further conditioning and conditioning composition B is incorporated into the towel dry to wet hair, said composition remaining for a few seconds up to 30 minutes on the hair, and then rinsed, the hair is again dried with a towel, optionally followed by a foehning step to completely dry the hair, and finally a hair styling and styling composition C is added to the hair and preferably is not rinsed out again. Of course, both the composition B as conditioning and conditioning composition and the composition C may in turn contain the composition according to the invention. It is preferred if at least composition B also contains the composition according to the invention.

The method according to the invention also includes that the first step of shampooing may optionally be repeated.

As packaging for the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, in principle, all known in the art packaging can be used. In particular, these are crucibles, tubes, bottles, sachets. In this case, different embodiments with respect to the shape and the color are possible. However, it is preferred if the packaging has at least a transparent portion of at least 15% of the outer packaging surface. Even better suited to enhance the aesthetic appearance is at least 30% of the transparent surface, but especially of 50%, but this is at least 75% and in a very outstanding way at least 85% transparent.

In one embodiment of the invention, compositions according to the invention may consist of two discrete, independent phases or even of two completely discrete, mutually independent compositions in a common outer packaging. In the latter case, the composition according to the invention can be both in one of the two compositions, as well as in each of the compositions or the composition according to the invention arise only in the blending of the compositions held separately until use. In these cases, the separately prepared compositions are also each separately packaged in separate containers. Suitable containers are all those known to those skilled and suitable for hair treatment means packaging means such as tubes, bottles or crucibles into consideration. In a further embodiment according to the invention, one of the compositions may be filled in one of the said packages so that it can be removed therefrom in portions of at least 0.5 to 20 g in a slightly metered manner. This can be done, for example, in the case of a squeeze tube so that marks are attached to the outside of the tube in 0.5 ml increments. These labels then allow the withdrawal of defined volumes of the base composition. In the case of a crucible, for example, an enclosed spoon with a defined filling volume of about 0.5 ml to 5.0 ml can allow the removal of defined amounts. Within this last embodiment, furthermore, a composition can very particularly preferably be packaged in a packaging from which the composition can be taken with precisely metered volumes. The accuracy of the volume metering is at least 0.1 ml. Particular preference is given to a metering accuracy of 0.25 ml and most preferably of at least 0.5 ml. As an example of such a Dosierverpackung is a bottle, tube or crucible with an added Called a pipette. Of course, it is also possible to fill this composition in a small container made of glass or plastic and comparable to the medical packaging of ear drops with a closure in which a pipette is incorporated, to close. Alternatively, the package may also be accompanied by a pipette for dosing. As a further component of this embodiment, for example, the lid of the packaging of the base composition is designed so that it is possible to mix the corresponding volumes of the two compositions in this lid. For this purpose, in a preferred embodiment, the lid can have a curvature and can accommodate volumes of at least 5 to 50 ml. Furthermore, the mixing and subsequent application of the ready-mixed from the two compositions can be facilitated with a brush or spatula. All necessary packages are then offered in a common outer packaging. In a further embodiment according to the invention, the two compositions can be packaged in a corresponding two-chamber package. Such packages are commercially available. The two compositions could then be separated and removed in variable amounts from the respective chambers and mixed together in a separate container.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, for example, a two-chamber tube can be used. Such tubes are described for example in DE 102004009424. In such tubes, the volume of the products to be removed from the individual containers is variably adjustable. The two products are then mixed either in a separate mixing container or in the hand immediately before use.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a two-chamber container is used which consists of two dosing dispensers. Each dispenser can be separately controlled independently of the other dispenser with respect to the pumping system so that the quantities of product to be dispensed from the respective container are variable. For example, this can be done by two cartridges, in each of which there is an airtight trailing piston. The mixing of the two compositions can ideally take place in the dispenser head. Such packages are offered commercially, for example, by the company DIALPACK GmbH.

All embodiments with two discrete phases containing at least after the mixing of these two discrete phases the active ingredient complex according to the invention have in common that in the outer packaging of all individual components a detailed instructions for use to determine the initial state and based on a recommendation for the optimal mixing ratio of the compositions. Examples and proofs of effect

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight.

1. Proof of effect

preparation

Strands from the company Alkinco (1.0 g, code 6634) were shampooed with 2.0 g of a solution of 10.0% by weight of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (2EO) for 2 minutes. Then, 1 minute was rinsed under running water of 23 ⁰ C, and dried the hair strand with a hairdryer. This was followed by a conventional perm treatments with 2.0 g of the product PoIy Lock-Normal Perm. As part of this perming treatment, the fibers were exposed in a first step for 40 minutes at room temperature of the reducing solution (containing 7.9 wt .-% thioglycolic acid), rinsed with pure water at a temperature of 23 ⁰ C for 1 minute under running water, with dried in a towel and then fixed at room temperature for 10 minutes with 2.0 g of an oxidation solution. The oxidation solution contained 2.6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide. After the oxidative treatment, the fibers were again rinsed for 1 minute under running water at 23 ⁰ C and then dried with a hair dryer. The permanent wave treatment was carried out twice under identical conditions.

a) aftertreatment

The strands were each at a temperature of 32 ° C for 30 minutes in a 1% aqueous solution of the respective active ingredients with 0.2 wt.% Ceteareth-25 as an emulsifier at a pH of 7, which was adjusted with sodium hydroxide or hydrochloric acid , dipped. In the case of the active substance complex, the amounts of the individual active substances were stated in% by weight and in each case admixed with 0.2% by weight of ceteareth-25 as emulsifier. After the treatment with the respective active compound composition, each strand of hair was rinsed with clear water for 1 minute, dried in air and allowed to rest for 16 hours.

b) Proof of the hair-structuring effect by means of HP-DSC By means of a DSC analysis (Perkin Elmer DSC-7), the following melting points shown in Table 1 were determined. A detailed description of the method can be found for example in DE 196 173 95 A1

The significance level of the active substance complexes 5 and 6 compared to the value without active ingredient is> 99%.

The active substance complexes from the above table (the serial numbers 5 and 6 against the solutions of the serial numbers 1 to 4) were further examined in the half-page test. For this purpose, 40 test persons with different hair bases (dyed, normal, permed, bleached, permed and bleached, etc.) were each washed with 10.0 g of a solution of 10.0% by weight sodium lauryl ether sulfate (2EO) for 2 minutes and the hair was washed Towel dried. The prepared hair was parted in the middle. 2.5 g of the respective test solutions were sprayed onto each half as a non-aerosol. After 3 minutes, the hairs were washed again for 2 minutes. Subsequently, the wet and after drying with a hair dryer, the dry hair of 4 hairdressing professionals was assessed. The compositions of the active compound complexes with the serial numbers 5 and 6 were used in the wet and dry combings, as well as the grip in the wet and dry hair, the volume and gloss much better. Furthermore, these active ingredient complexes have a clearly long-lasting effect in terms of the volume, the gloss and the configurability of the hairstyle and the hairstyle. In particular, the greasing of the hair was very much slowed down. The onset of dandruff was significantly reduced and the size of the few dandruff was significantly smaller compared to subjects treated with compositions 1 to 4.

2. Further Formulation Examples:

Aufbaucreme:

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic compositions containing an active ingredient combination comprising at least one mineral powder and further at least one cationic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymer.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the mineral powder is selected from the powders of spade, mica, clays, kaolin, volcanic earth, Fangoerden and peat.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the mineral powders have a particle size smaller than 100 microns.

4. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the active ingredient combination further contains mild surfactants and / or emulsifiers.

5. A process for the treatment of keratinic fibers, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 is applied to the keratinic fibers and rinsed after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes again.

6. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 for the care and conditioning keratinischer fibers and for reducing the re-greasing of the keratinic fibers and the reduction of dandruff.