WO2009030302A1 - Active substance combinations of glycyrrhetic acid and dihydroxyacetone and cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing said active substance combinations - Google Patents

Active substance combinations of glycyrrhetic acid and dihydroxyacetone and cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing said active substance combinations Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009030302A1
WO2009030302A1 PCT/EP2008/005614 EP2008005614W WO2009030302A1 WO 2009030302 A1 WO2009030302 A1 WO 2009030302A1 EP 2008005614 W EP2008005614 W EP 2008005614W WO 2009030302 A1 WO2009030302 A1 WO 2009030302A1
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Prior art keywords
skin
dihydroxyacetone
preparations
cosmetic
weight
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PCT/EP2008/005614
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Rainer Wolber
Christoph Smuda
Cathrin Scherner
Michael WÖHRMANN
Sabrina Ahlheit
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2009030302A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009030302A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P29/00Non-central analgesic, antipyretic or antiinflammatory agents, e.g. antirheumatic agents; Non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs [NSAID]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to active ingredient combinations, in particular those for tanning the human skin, as well as cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such drug combinations.
  • UVC region The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays having a wavelength smaller than 290 nm (the so-called UVC region) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB region, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.
  • UVA range it is important to have filter substances available, since its rays can cause damage. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage of the elastic and collagenous fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it is the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic shear reactions can be seen. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be amplified by UVA radiation.
  • UVA radiation can also cause skin damage by damaging the skin's own keratin or elastin. This reduces the elasticity and water retention capacity of the skin, i. The skin becomes less supple and tends to wrinkle.
  • the strikingly high prevalence of skin cancer in areas of strong sunlight indicates that damage to the genetic information in the cells is evidently also caused by sunlight, especially UV-A radiation.
  • UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products intervene in the skin metabolism.
  • such photochemical reaction products are radic compounds, e.g. Hydroxyl radicals.
  • Undefined radical photoproducts which are formed in the skin itself, can also show uncontrolled sequelae due to their high reactivity.
  • singlet oxygen a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule, can also be seen on UV irradiation, as can short-lived epoxides and many others.
  • Singlet oxygen for example, is distinguished from the normally present triplet oxygen (radical ground state) by increased reactivity. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.
  • UV radiation counts as ionizing radiation. There is thus the risk that ionic species may also be formed on exposure to UV radiation, which in turn may intervene oxidatively in the biochemical processes.
  • the pigmentation of human skin is essentially caused by the presence of melanin.
  • Melanin and its breakdown products (melanoids), carotene, degree of haemorrhage and the nature and thickness of the stratum corneum and other skin layers make skin shades different from virtually white (with reduced filling or in the absence of blood vessels) or yellowish to light brown-reddish, bluish to brown Nuances and finally appear almost black.
  • the individual skin regions show different depth of color due to different amounts of melanin. According to recent findings, the distribution of melanin in the skin has At least as much influence on the color appearance (browning) as the amount of melanin.
  • the natural melanin protects the skin from penetrating UV radiation.
  • melanin With strong pigmentation (for example, in colored people, but also in fair-skinned persons after some UV irradiation), melanin is also found in the stratum spinosum and even in the stratum corneum. It weakens the UV radiation by up to approx. 90% before it reaches the corium.
  • Skin type I never tans, always gets a sunburn.
  • Skin type II hardly tans, easily gets sunburned.
  • Skin type III tans well on average.
  • Skin type IV tans easily and persistently, almost never gets sunburned.
  • Skin type V Dark, often almost black, skin never gets sunburned.
  • Carotene is stored in the subcutaneous adipose tissue by regular intake of carotene preparations, the skin gradually turns orange to yellow-brown.
  • a slight skin tone can be achieved (eg extracts of fresh green walnut shells, henna)
  • the staining can also be done by way of chemical modification of the skin's hom für with so-called self-tanning preparations.
  • the most important active ingredient is dihydroxyacetone (DHA).
  • DHA dihydroxyacetone
  • Dihydroxyacetone can be referred to as ketotriose and reacts as reducing sugar with the amino acids of the skin or the free amino and imino groups of keratin via a series of intermediates in the sense of a Maillard reaction to brown-colored substances, so-called melanoids, which occasionally melanoidins to be named.
  • the glycyrrhetinic acid isolable from licorice is the aglycone of glycyrrhizin (which is the 2 ⁇ -glucuronido- ⁇ -glucuronide of glycyrrhetinic acid).
  • Glycyrrhizin is characterized by the following structure:
  • Glycyrrhetinic acid is used as an anti-inflammatory agent.
  • Glycyrrhizinic acid 3-hemisuccinate serves as an anticoagulant.
  • Glycyrrhizin has an anti-inflammatory effect and is used in the form of liquorice juice (Sirupus Iquiritiae) as a cough suppressant and expectorant.
  • Glycyrrhetinic acid and glycyrrhizin are known to the person skilled in the art as active ingredients having a skin-lightening activity.
  • glycyrrhetinic acid is preferred according to the invention for glycyrrhizin, but it may also be advantageously replaced by it partially or completely.
  • the weight ratios of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin on the one hand and dihydroxyacetone on the other hand are selected from the range from 10: 1 to 1: 100 in the active substance combinations or preparations.
  • Particularly preferred weight ratios of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin on the one hand and dihydroxyacetone on the other hand in the active substance combinations or the preparations containing them are from the range from 1: 30 to 1: 7.5, very particularly preferably from the range of 1:20 and 1: 10 selected.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001-10% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.05-0.25% by weight.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.1-3% by weight of dihydroxyacetone.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.1-3% by weight of erythrulose.
  • a preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to preparations containing 0.001-10% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin and 0.1-3% by weight of erythrulose and / or 0.1-3% of dihydroxyacetone.
  • Preferred ratios of glycyrrhetinic acid and erythrulose are between 10: 1 to 1: 100, more preferably between 1: 30 and 1: 7.5, most preferably between 1:20 and 1:10.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention particularly preferably contain 0.01-1% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin and 0.5-2% by weight of erythrulose and / or dihydroxyacetone, a combination of erythrulose and dihydroxyacetone in the ratio 1: 5 to 5: 1, based on the total composition of the preparations.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing 0.05 to 0.25% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid and 0.75 to 1.75% by weight of dihydroxyacetone, based on the total composition of the preparations.
  • the formulations of the invention showed that a) the skin barrier is strengthened b) skin moisture is increased c) in particular unwanted pigmentation disorders such as melasma, various forms of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to, for example, scars or sunburns, Age spots, freckles, liver spots, vitiligo, etc. are alleviated or eliminated. d) skin wrinkles are reduced.
  • preparations according to the invention surprisingly also led to an improvement of the contours of the skin and to an increased elasticity, in particular on the weak connective tissue areas of the body, such as e.g. on the legs, stomach and buttocks.
  • These skin-firming and firming effects are accompanied by an improvement of the cell metabolism with the reduction of the orange peel, so for example with the reduction of skin dents on the thigh area ("riding pants").
  • Emulsions according to the invention for the purposes of the present invention are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as they are commonly used for such a type of formulation.
  • Medicinal topical compositions according to the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • drugs for the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (for example, Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention may be composed as usual and used for the treatment of the skin and / or the hair in the sense of a dermatological treatment or a treatment in the sense of nourishing cosmetics. But they can also be used in make-up products in decorative cosmetics or in the cosmetic and dermatological cleaning products.
  • the moire (s) selected from the group are glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea ,
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble, water-swellable or water-soluble polysaccharides.
  • hyaluronic acid, chitosan and a fucose-rich polysaccharide which are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z.
  • glycerol as a moisturizer, preferably in a concentration of 0.05 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the solvents used can be: water or aqueous solutions, furthermore oils, such as Triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil, fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower alkanoic acids Number or with fatty acids, but also alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or - monoethyl ether and analogous products.
  • oils such as Triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably cast
  • mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used, as may be an advantageous further constituent of alcohol in the case of alcoholic solvents.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may be in various forms, such as e.g. Usually be used for this type of preparations. So they can e.g. a solution, a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion, or a multiple emulsions, such as water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W), oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a lamellar phase, a liquid isotropic solution phase, a micellar phase, a solid or dispersed one. or hexagonal phase, a solid or dispersed single or multiple cubic phase, an isotropic phase, a crystalline phase, a solid stick or even an aerosol.
  • W / O water-in-oil
  • O / W oil-in-water
  • O oil-in-water-in-oil
  • a gel
  • the active compounds according to the invention can also be used with particular advantage in microemulsions, for example as described in German Offenlegungsschrift DE-195 9 079.
  • the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2 Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, Erucylerucat and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12 . 15- alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12 . 15- alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 12 . 15- Alkylbenzoat and Isotridecylisononanoat and mixtures of C 12-15 - alkyl benzoate, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.
  • the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
  • cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are particularly advantageous.
  • the content of the oil phase is between 1 and 50 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, preferably 2.5 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5 to 15 wt .-%.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and dermatological agents.
  • active ingredients to be used in the context of the present invention are those which improve the condition of the skin, in particular active ingredients for the treatment and / or care of aging skin, for example those which reduce the development of wrinkles or even existing wrinkles.
  • biochinones in particular ubiquinone (Q10), folic acid and its derivatives (in particular tetrahydrofolic acid and dihydrofolic acid), niacin and its derivatives (in particular niacinamide), creatine and creatinine, carnitine, biotin, isoflavone, hop and hops malt extracts ,
  • agents that promote the restructuring of connective tissue such as natural and synthetic isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-containing plant extracts - such.
  • soy and clover extracts - can be used very well in the formulations of the invention.
  • formulations are particularly suitable as active ingredients for supporting the skin functions in dry skin (such as, for example, vitamin C, biotin, carnitine, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts (such as, for example, NaCl, marine minerals). and osmolytes (such as inositol, betaine, quaternary ammonium compounds)).
  • active ingredients for supporting the skin functions in dry skin
  • active ingredients such as, for example, vitamin C, biotin, carnitine, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts (such as, for example, NaCl, marine minerals).
  • active ingredients which can be used individually or in combination: Ubiquinone. Folic acid, creatine, carnitine and I-soflavone.
  • active ingredients for alleviating irritative skin conditions have proven to be particularly advantageous.
  • agents such as sericosides, various extracts of licorice, licochalcone, especially licochalcone A, silymarin, silyphos, dexpanthenol, inhibitors of prostaglandin metabolism, in particular the cyclooquine xygenase and the leukotriene metabolism, in particular the 5-lipoxygenase, but also the 5-lipoxevase inhibitor protein, FLAP.
  • the abovementioned active substances are furthermore particularly suitable for creating or renewing an (energy) depot and for activating the repair (repair) of different cellular structures, in particular of the DNA.
  • Licochalcones in particular licochalcone A, and dexpanthenol, which can be used individually or in combination, are very particularly advantageous.
  • compositions are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants.
  • antioxidants As favorable, but nevertheless optional to be used antioxidants all suitable or common for cosmetic and dermatological applications or conventional antioxidants can be used.
  • water-soluble antioxidants can be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives - in particular ascorbyl palmitate, Na and Mg ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl acetate - and rutinic acid and its derivatives, in particular alpha glucosylrutin, quercetin and isoquercetin.
  • vitamins eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives - in particular ascorbyl palmitate, Na and Mg ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl acetate - and rutinic acid and its derivatives, in particular alpha glucosylrutin, quercetin and isoquercetin.
  • antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives (especially vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and its derivatives (especially vitamin A palmitate) and carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, beta-alanine and carotenoids (especially beta-carotene) and phytoene.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • Vitamin E acetate 0.1 0.1
  • Vitamin E acetate 0.1 0.1 0.1

Abstract

The invention relates to active substance combinations of a) glycyrrhetic acid and/or glycyrrhizine and b) dihydroxyacetone and optionally c) erythrulose.

Description

Beschreibung description
Wirkstoffkombinationen aus Glycyrrhetinsäure und Dihydroxyaceton und kosmeti- sehe oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, diese Wirkstoffkombinationen enthaltendActive ingredient combinations of glycyrrhetinic acid and dihydroxyacetone and cosmetic see or dermatological preparations containing these drug combinations
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft Wirkstoffkombinationen, insbesondere solche zur Bräunung der menschlichen Haut, sowie kosmetische und dermatologische Zuberei- tungen solche Wirkstoffkombinationen enthaltend.The present invention relates to active ingredient combinations, in particular those for tanning the human skin, as well as cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such drug combinations.
Die schädigende Wirkung des ultravioletten Teils der Sonnenstrahlung auf die Haut ist allgemein bekannt. Während Strahlen mit einer Wellenlänge, die kleiner als 290 nm ist (der sogenannte UVC-Bereich), von der Ozonschicht in der Erdatmosphäre absorbiert werden, verursachen Strahlen im Bereich zwischen 290 nm und 320 nm, dem sogenannten UVB- Bereich, ein Erythem, einen einfachen Sonnenbrand oder sogar mehr oder weniger starke Verbrennungen.The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays having a wavelength smaller than 290 nm (the so-called UVC region) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB region, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.
Als ein Maximum der Erythemwirksamkeit des Sonnenlichtes wird der engere Bereich um 308 nm angegeben.As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight, the narrower range around 308 nm is given.
Zum Schütze gegen UVB-Strahlung sind zahlreiche Verbindungen bekannt, bei denen es sich zumeist um Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, der 4-Aminobenzoesäure, der Zimtsäure, der Salicylsäure, des Benzophenons sowie auch des 2-Phenylbenzimidazols handelt.For protection against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known, which are mostly derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also of 2-phenylbenzimidazole.
Auch für den Bereich zwischen etwa 320 nm und etwa 400 nm, den sogenannten UVA- Bereich, ist es wichtig, Filtersubstanzen zur Verfügung zu haben, da auch dessen Strahlen Schäden hervorrufen können. So ist erwiesen, daß UVA-Strahlung zu einer Schädi- gung der elastischen und kollagenen Fasern des Bindegewebes führt, was die Haut vorzeitig altern läßt, und daß sie als Ursache zahlreicher phototoxischer und photoallergi- scher Reaktionen zu sehen ist. Der schädigende Einfluß der UVB-Strahlung kann durch UVA-Strahlung verstärkt werden.Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is important to have filter substances available, since its rays can cause damage. It has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage of the elastic and collagenous fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it is the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic shear reactions can be seen. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be amplified by UVA radiation.
UV-A-Strahlung kann ferner Hautschädigungen hervorrufen, indem das hauteigene Kera- tin oder Elastin geschädigt wird. Hierdurch werden Elastizität und Wasserspeichervermögen der Haut reduziert, d.h. die Haut wird weniger geschmeidig und neigt zur Faltenbildung. Die auffallend hohe Hautkrebshäufigkeit in Gegenden starker Sonneneinstrahlung zeiqt, daß offenbar auch Schädigungen der Erbinformationen in den Zellen durch Sonnenlicht, speziell durch UV-A-Strahlung, hervorgerufen werden.UVA radiation can also cause skin damage by damaging the skin's own keratin or elastin. This reduces the elasticity and water retention capacity of the skin, i. The skin becomes less supple and tends to wrinkle. The strikingly high prevalence of skin cancer in areas of strong sunlight indicates that damage to the genetic information in the cells is evidently also caused by sunlight, especially UV-A radiation.
Die UV-Strahlung kann aber auch zu photochemischen Reaktionen führen, wobei dann die photochemischen Reaktionsprodukte in den Hautmetabolismus eingreifen.However, the UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products intervene in the skin metabolism.
Vorwiegend handelt es sich bei solchen photochemischen Reaktionsprodukten um radi- kaiische Verbindungen, z.B. Hydroxylradikale. Auch Undefinierte radikalische Photoprodukte, welche in der Haut selbst entstehen, können aufgrund ihrer hohen Reaktivität unkontrollierte Folgereaktionen an den Tag legen. Aber auch Singulettsauerstoff, ein nicht- radikalischer angeregter Zustand des Sauerstoffmoleküls kann bei UV-Bestrahlung auftreten, ebenso kurzlebige Epoxide und viele Andere. Singulettsauerstoff beispielsweise zeichnet sich gegenüber dem normalerweise vorliegenden Triplettsauerstoff (radikalischer Grundzustand) durch gesteigerte Reaktivität aus. Allerdings existieren auch angeregte, reaktive (radikalische) Triplettzustände des Sauerstoffmoleküls.Predominantly, such photochemical reaction products are radic compounds, e.g. Hydroxyl radicals. Undefined radical photoproducts, which are formed in the skin itself, can also show uncontrolled sequelae due to their high reactivity. However, singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule, can also be seen on UV irradiation, as can short-lived epoxides and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is distinguished from the normally present triplet oxygen (radical ground state) by increased reactivity. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.
Ferner zählt UV-Strahlung zur ionisierenden Strahlung. Es besteht also das Risiko, daß auch ionische Spezies bei UV-Exposition entstehen, welche dann ihrerseits oxidativ in die biochemischen Prozesse einzugreifen vermögen.Furthermore, UV radiation counts as ionizing radiation. There is thus the risk that ionic species may also be formed on exposure to UV radiation, which in turn may intervene oxidatively in the biochemical processes.
Die Pigmentierung der menschlichen Haut, wird im wesentlichen durch die Gegenwart von Melanin bewirkt. Melanin und dessen Abbauprodukte (Melanoide), Carotin, Durch- blutungsgrad sowie die Beschaffenheit und Dicke des Stratum corneum und andere Hautschichten lassen Hautfarbtöne von praktisch weiß (bei verringerter Füllung oder bei Fehlen der Blutgefäße) oder gelblich über hellbraun-rötlich, bläulich bis braun verschiedener Nuancen und schließlich beinahe schwarz erscheinen. Die einzelnen Hautregionen zeigen aufgrund unterschiedlicher Melanin-Mengen unterschiedliche Tiefe der Farbtönung. Nach neueren Erkenntnissen hat die Verteilung von Melanin in der Haut ei- nen mindestens so großen Einfluss auf die Farberscheinung (Bräunung) wie die Menge des Melanins.The pigmentation of human skin is essentially caused by the presence of melanin. Melanin and its breakdown products (melanoids), carotene, degree of haemorrhage and the nature and thickness of the stratum corneum and other skin layers make skin shades different from virtually white (with reduced filling or in the absence of blood vessels) or yellowish to light brown-reddish, bluish to brown Nuances and finally appear almost black. The individual skin regions show different depth of color due to different amounts of melanin. According to recent findings, the distribution of melanin in the skin has At least as much influence on the color appearance (browning) as the amount of melanin.
Das natürliche Melanin schützt die Haut vor eindringender UV-Strahlung. Die Anzahl der in den Melanocyten produzierten Melanin-Granula entscheidet zusammen mit der epidermalen Verteilung der Melanin-Granula über Hell- od. Dunkelhäutigkeit. Bei starker Pigmentierung (z.B. bei Farbigen, aber auch bei Hellhäutigen nach einiger UV- Bestrahlung) ist Melanin auch im Stratum spinosum und sogar im Stratum corneum festzustellen. Es schwächt die UV-Strahlung um bis zu ca. 90%, bevor diese das Corium er- reicht.The natural melanin protects the skin from penetrating UV radiation. The number of melanin granules produced in the melanocytes, together with the epidermal distribution of the melanin granules, determines whether they are light or dark-skinned. With strong pigmentation (for example, in colored people, but also in fair-skinned persons after some UV irradiation), melanin is also found in the stratum spinosum and even in the stratum corneum. It weakens the UV radiation by up to approx. 90% before it reaches the corium.
Je nach Lichtempfindlichkeit werden in der Regel folgende Hauttypen unterschieden:Depending on photosensitivity, the following skin types are usually distinguished:
Hauttyp I bräunt nie, bekommt immer einen Sonnenbrand. Hauttyp Il bräunt kaum, bekommt leicht einen Sonnenbrand. Hauttyp III bräunt durchschnittlich gut.Skin type I never tans, always gets a sunburn. Skin type II hardly tans, easily gets sunburned. Skin type III tans well on average.
Hauttyp IV bräunt leicht und anhaltend, bekommt fast nie Sonnenbrand. Hauttyp V dunkle, oft fast schwarze Haut, bekommt nie Sonnenbrand.Skin type IV tans easily and persistently, almost never gets sunburned. Skin type V Dark, often almost black, skin never gets sunburned.
Die natürliche Abschirmung der schädlichen UV-Strahlung ist ein handfester Vorteil der natürlichen Hautbräunung. Seit einigen Jahrzehnten gilt darüber hinaus eine „gesunde" Hautfarbe als Zeichen von insbesondere sportlicher Aktivität und wird daher von einer breiten Verbraucherschicht als erstrebenswert erachtet. Vertreter der Hauttypen I und II, die sich einer solchen Hauttönung erfreuen wollen, sind daher ohnehin auf selbstbräu- nende Präparate angewiesen. Aber auch Vertreter des Hauttyps III, die sich nicht allzu sehr den Risiken des Sonnenbades aussetzen und trotzdem gebräunt aussehen wollen, sind dankbare Zielgruppen für selbstbräunende Zubereitungen.The natural shielding of harmful UV radiation is a tangible benefit of natural skin tanning. In addition, for some decades a "healthy" skin color has been considered a sign of particular sporting activity and is therefore considered desirable by a broad consumer group, so representatives of skin types I and II who wish to enjoy such skin toning are self-brewing anyway But also representatives of skin type III, who are not too exposed to the risks of sunbathing and still want to look tanned, are grateful target groups for self-tanning preparations.
Künstliche Hautbräunung läßt sich auf kosmetischem bzw. medizinischem Wege bewir- ken, wobei im wesentlichen folgende Ansätze eine Rolle spielen:Artificial skin tanning can be effected by cosmetic or medical means, whereby essentially the following approaches play a role:
Durch regelmäßige Einnahme von Carotin-Präparaten wird Carotin wird im Unterhaut- Fettgewebe gespeichert, die Haut färbt sich allmählich orange bis gelbbraun.Carotene is stored in the subcutaneous adipose tissue by regular intake of carotene preparations, the skin gradually turns orange to yellow-brown.
Mit Hilfe abwaschbarer Make-up-Präparate kann eine leichte Hauttönung erzielt werden (z.B. Extrakte aus frischen grünen Walnußschalen, Henna) Die Anfärbung kann auch auf dem Wege der chemischen Veränderung der Homschicht der Haut mit sogenannten selbstbräunenden Zubereitungen erfolgen. Wichtigster Wirkstoff ist das Dihydroxyaceton (DHA). Die auf diese Weise erzielte Hautbräunung ist nicht abwaschbar und wird erst mit der normalen Abschuppung der Haut (nach ca. 10—15 Tagen) entfernt. Dihydroxyaceton kann als Ketotriose bezeichnet werden und reagiert als reduzierender Zucker mit den Aminosäuren der Haut bzw. den freien Amino- und Imino- Gruppen des Keratins über eine Reihe von Zwischenstufen im Sinne einer Maillard- Reaktion zu braungefärbten Stoffen, sogenannten Melanoiden, welche gelegentlich auch Melanoidine genannt werden.With the help of washable make-up preparations a slight skin tone can be achieved (eg extracts of fresh green walnut shells, henna) The staining can also be done by way of chemical modification of the skin's homschicht with so-called self-tanning preparations. The most important active ingredient is dihydroxyacetone (DHA). The skin tanning achieved in this way is not washable and is only removed with the normal desquamation of the skin (after approx. 10-15 days). Dihydroxyacetone can be referred to as ketotriose and reacts as reducing sugar with the amino acids of the skin or the free amino and imino groups of keratin via a series of intermediates in the sense of a Maillard reaction to brown-colored substances, so-called melanoids, which occasionally melanoidins to be named.
Nachteile der Bräunung mit Dihydroxyaceton liegt darin, daß die mit ihm gebräunte HautDisadvantages of tanning with dihydroxyacetone is that the tanned skin with him
• häufig ungleichmäßig gebräunt ist• is often browned unevenly
• keinen natürlichen Hautbräunungsfarbton aufweist • nach dem Auftragen auf die Haut unangenehm riecht• does not have a natural skin tanning color • smells unpleasant after application to the skin
• es zu starken Verfärbungen der Handinnenflächen und der Nägel kommt und• it comes to strong discoloration of the palms and nails and
• im Gegensatze zu „sonnengebräunter" Haut nicht gegen Sonnenbrand geschützt ist.• In contrast to "tanned" skin is not protected against sunburn.
Auch zeigen klassische Selbstbräunungsprodukte nur sehr schlechte hautpflegende Ei- genschaften und führen häufig zur Verfärbung von Kleidern, Bettwäsche und sonstigen Textilien.Classic self-tanning products also show only very poor skin-care properties and often cause clothing, bedding and other textiles to discolour.
Die Verwendung von Glycyrrhetinsäure und Glycyrrhizin in Kosmetika und Dermatika ist an sich bekannt.The use of glycyrrhetinic acid and glycyrrhizin in cosmetics and dermatics is known per se.
Glycyrrhetinsäure ist durch folgende Struktur gekennzeichnet: Glycyrrhetinic acid is characterized by the following structure:
Figure imgf000006_0001
Figure imgf000006_0001
Neben der natürlich vorkommenden 18 ß-Form existiert auch eine 18 α-Form. Die aus Süßholz (Glycyrrhiza glabra, Leguminosae) isolierbare Glycyrrhetinsäure ist das Aglycon von Glycyrrhizin (welches das 2 ß-Glucuronido-α-glucuronid der Glycyrrhetinsäure darstellt). Glycyrrhizin ist durch folgende Struktur gekennzeichnet:In addition to the naturally occurring 18 ß-form also exists an 18 α-form. The glycyrrhetinic acid isolable from licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, Leguminosae) is the aglycone of glycyrrhizin (which is the 2β-glucuronido-α-glucuronide of glycyrrhetinic acid). Glycyrrhizin is characterized by the following structure:
Figure imgf000006_0002
Figure imgf000006_0002
Glycyrrhetinsäure wird als entzündungshemmendes Mittel verwendet. Das Glycyrrhetin- säure-3-Hemisuccinat dient als Ulcustherapeutikum. Glycyrrhizin wirkt entzündungshemmend und dient in Form von Süßholzsaft (Sirupus Ii- quiritiae) als Hustenmittel und Expektorans.Glycyrrhetinic acid is used as an anti-inflammatory agent. Glycyrrhizinic acid 3-hemisuccinate serves as an anticoagulant. Glycyrrhizin has an anti-inflammatory effect and is used in the form of liquorice juice (Sirupus Iquiritiae) as a cough suppressant and expectorant.
Glycyrrhetinsäure und Glycyrrhizin sind dem Fachmann als Wirkstoffe mit einer hautaufhellenden Wirksamkeit bekannt.Glycyrrhetinic acid and glycyrrhizin are known to the person skilled in the art as active ingredients having a skin-lightening activity.
Den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abzuhelfen, war also Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung.To remedy the disadvantages of the prior art, so was task of the present invention.
Es war indes überraschend und für den Fachmann nicht vorauszusehen, daßIt was, however, surprising and for the expert not foresee that
Wirkstoffkombinationen aus a) Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin und b) Dihydroxyaceton sowie gewünschtenfalls c) ErythruloseActive ingredient combinations of a) glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin and b) dihydroxyacetone and, if desired, c) erythrulose
und kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, diese Wirkstoffkombinationen enthaltend,and cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing these active substance combinations,
die Probleme des Standes der Technik lösen würden.solve the problems of the prior art.
Es war für den Fachmann insbesondere nicht vorauszusehen gewesen, daß die erfindungsgemäßen ZubereitungenIn particular, it had not been foreseen for the skilled person that the preparations according to the invention
• die Bräunung der Haut steigern,• increase the tanning of the skin,
• eine gleichmäßigere und natürlichere Bräunung der Haut ermöglichen,• enable a more even and natural tanning of the skin,
• keine unerwünschten Gerüche beim Auftragen auf die Haut entwickeln • kein unerwünschtes Austrocknen der Haut mit sich bringen,• do not develop unwanted odors when applied to the skin • do not cause unwanted drying of the skin,
• keine unerwünschte Verfärbung bestimmter Hautareale, wie z.B. der Handinnenflächen, und der Nägel aufweisen und• no unwanted discoloration of certain areas of the skin, e.g. the palms, and the nails have and
• eine Verfärbung von Textilien nach Auftragen auf die Haut vermeiden. Im allgemeinen ist die Glycyrrhetinsäure erfindungsgemäß dem Glycyrrhizin bevorzugt, kann aber auch gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft durch dieses teilweise oder vollständig ersetzt werden.• avoid discolouring textiles after application to the skin. In general, glycyrrhetinic acid is preferred according to the invention for glycyrrhizin, but it may also be advantageously replaced by it partially or completely.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft werden in den Wirkstoffkombinationen bzw. den Zubereitungen diese enthaltend Gewichtsverhältnisse von Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin einerseits und Dihydroxyaceton andererseits aus dem Bereich von 10 : 1 bis 1 : 100 gewählt.According to the invention, the weight ratios of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin on the one hand and dihydroxyacetone on the other hand are selected from the range from 10: 1 to 1: 100 in the active substance combinations or preparations.
Besonders bevorzugte Gewichtsverhältnisse von Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin einerseits und Dihydroxyaceton andererseits in den Wirkstoffkombinationen bzw. den Zubereitungen diese enthaltend werden aus dem Bereich von 1 :30 bis 1 :7,5, ganz besonders bevorzugt aus dem Bereich von 1 :20 und 1 :10 gewählt.Particularly preferred weight ratios of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin on the one hand and dihydroxyacetone on the other hand in the active substance combinations or the preparations containing them are from the range from 1: 30 to 1: 7.5, very particularly preferably from the range of 1:20 and 1: 10 selected.
Bevorzugt enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung 0,001 - 10 Gew.-% an Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin, besonders bevorzugt 0,01-1 Gew.-% und ganz besonders bevorzugt 0,05-0,25 Gew.-%.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001-10% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.05-0.25% by weight.
Ferner bevorzugt enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung 0,1 - 3 Gew.-% an Dihydroxyaceton.Furthermore, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.1-3% by weight of dihydroxyacetone.
Ferner erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung 0,1 - 3 Gew.-% an Erythrulose.Furthermore, according to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.1-3% by weight of erythrulose.
Eine bevorzugte Ausführungsform der vorliegenden Erfindung betrifft Zubereitungen, enthaltend 0,001 - 10 Gew.-% an Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin sowie 0,1 - 3 Gew.-% Erythrulose und/oder 0,1 - 3 Dihydroxyaceton.A preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to preparations containing 0.001-10% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin and 0.1-3% by weight of erythrulose and / or 0.1-3% of dihydroxyacetone.
Bevorzugte Verhältnisse aus Glycyrrhetinsäure und Erythrulose liegen zwischen 10 : 1 bis 1 : 100, besonders bevorzugte zwischen 1 :30 und 1 :7,5, ganz besonders bevorzugt zwischen 1 :20 und 1 :10.Preferred ratios of glycyrrhetinic acid and erythrulose are between 10: 1 to 1: 100, more preferably between 1: 30 and 1: 7.5, most preferably between 1:20 and 1:10.
Besonders bevorzugt enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung 0,01 - 1 Gew.-% an Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin sowie 0,5-2 Gew.-% Erythrulose und/oder Dihydroxyaceton, wobei eine Kombination aus Erythrulose und Dihydroxyaceton im Verhältnis 1 :5 bis 5:1 liegen kann, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung der Zubereitungen.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention particularly preferably contain 0.01-1% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin and 0.5-2% by weight of erythrulose and / or dihydroxyacetone, a combination of erythrulose and dihydroxyacetone in the ratio 1: 5 to 5: 1, based on the total composition of the preparations.
Ganz besonders bevorzugt enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung 0,05 - 0,25 Gew.-% an Glycyrrhetinsäure sowie 0,75 - 1 ,75 Gew.- Dihydroxyaceton , bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung der Zubereitungen.Very particular preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention containing 0.05 to 0.25% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid and 0.75 to 1.75% by weight of dihydroxyacetone, based on the total composition of the preparations.
Neben den oben beschriebenen positiven Eigenschaften auf die Bräunung der Haut zeigten die Erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen, dass a) die Hautbarriere gestärkt wird b) die Hautfeuchtigkeit gesteigert wird c) insbesondere unerwünschte Pigmentierungsstörungen wie Melasma, verschiedene Formen der postinflammatorischen Hyperpigmentierung beispielsweise infolge von Narben oder nach Sonnenbränden, Altersflecken, Sommersprossen, Leber- flecken, Vitiligo usw. gemildert oder beseitigt werden,. d) Hautfalten vermindert werden.In addition to the above-described positive skin tanning properties, the formulations of the invention showed that a) the skin barrier is strengthened b) skin moisture is increased c) in particular unwanted pigmentation disorders such as melasma, various forms of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to, for example, scars or sunburns, Age spots, freckles, liver spots, vitiligo, etc. are alleviated or eliminated. d) skin wrinkles are reduced.
Die Anwendung erfindungsgemäßer Zubereitungen führte ferner erstaunlicherweise auch zu einer Verbesserung der Hautkonturen und zu einer erhöhten Elastizität, insbesondere an den bindegewebsschwachen Arealen des Körpers wie z.B. an den Beinen, am Bauch und am Gesäß. Diese hautstraffenden und -festigenden Wirkungen gehen über eine Verbesserung des Zellstoffwechsels mit der Reduzierung der Orangenhaut einher, also beispielsweise mit der Verminderung von Hautdellen am Oberschenkelbereich („Reiterhosen").Moreover, the use of preparations according to the invention surprisingly also led to an improvement of the contours of the skin and to an increased elasticity, in particular on the weak connective tissue areas of the body, such as e.g. on the legs, stomach and buttocks. These skin-firming and firming effects are accompanied by an improvement of the cell metabolism with the reduction of the orange peel, so for example with the reduction of skin dents on the thigh area ("riding pants").
Erfindungsgemäße Emulsionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, z.B. in Form einer Creme, einer Lotion, einer kosmetischen Milch sind vorteilhaft und enthalten z.B. Fette, Öle, Wachse und/oder andere Fettkörper, sowie Wasser und einen oder mehrere Emulgatoren, wie sie üblicherweise für einen solchen Typ der Formulierung verwendet werden.Emulsions according to the invention for the purposes of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as they are commonly used for such a type of formulation.
Es ist auch möglich und vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Wirkstoff in wäßrige Systeme bzw. Tensidzubereitungen zur Reinigung der Haut und der Haare einzufügen.It is also possible and advantageous in the context of the present invention to incorporate the active ingredient used according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.
Es ist dem Fachmanne natürlich bekannt, daß anspruchsvolle kosmetische Zusammen- Setzungen zumeist nicht ohne die üblichen Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe denkbar sind. Darunter zählen beispielsweise Konsistenzgeber, Füllstoffe, Parfüm, Farbstoffe, Emulgatoren, zusätzliche Wirkstoffe wie Vitamine oder Proteine, Lichtschutzmittel, Stabilisatoren, Insektenrepellentien, Alkohol, Wasser, Salze, antimikrobiell, proteolytisch oder keratolytisch wirksame Substanzen usw.Of course, it is known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are generally not conceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional Active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic substances, etc.
Mutatis mutandis gelten entsprechende Anforderungen an die Formulierung medizinischer Zubereitungen.Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.
Medizinische topische Zusammensetzungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung enthalten in der Regel ein oder mehrere Medikamente in wirksamer Konzentration. Der Einfachheit halber wird zur sauberen Unterscheidung zwischen kosmetischer und medizinischer Anwendung und entsprechenden Produkten auf die gesetzlichen Bestimmungen der Bundesrepublik Deutschland verwiesen (z.B. Kosmetikverordnung, Lebensmittel- und Arzneimittelgesetz).Medicinal topical compositions according to the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (for example, Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Formulierungen können wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und zur Behandlung der Haut und/oder der Haare im Sinne einer dermatologischen Behandlung oder einer Behandlung im Sinne der pflegenden Kosmetik dienen. Sie können aber auch in Schminkprodukten in der dekorativen Kosmetik eingesetzt werden oder in den kosmetischen und dermatologischen Reinigungsprodukten.The cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention may be composed as usual and used for the treatment of the skin and / or the hair in the sense of a dermatological treatment or a treatment in the sense of nourishing cosmetics. But they can also be used in make-up products in decorative cosmetics or in the cosmetic and dermatological cleaning products.
Ganz besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung werden der oder die Moisturi- zer gewählt aus der Gruppe: Glycerin, Milchsäure und/oder Lactate, insbesondere Natriumlac- tat, Butylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Biosaccaride Gum-1 , Glycine Soja, Ethylhexyloxyglycerin, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure und Harnstoff. Ferner ist es insbesondere von Vorteil, polymere Moistu- rizer aus der Gruppe der wasserlöslichen, in Wasser quellbaren oder mit Hilfe von Wasser ge- lierbaren Polysaccharide zu verwenden. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind beispielsweise Hyalu- ronsäure, Chitosan und ein fucosereiches Polysaccharid, welches in den Chemical Abstracts unter der Registraturnummer 178463-23-5 abgelegt und z. B. unter der Bezeichnung Fuco- gel®1000 von der Gesellschaft SOLABIA S.A. erhältlich ist. Moisturizer können vorteilhaft auch als Antifaltenwirkstoffe zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Hautveränderungen, wie sie z. B. bei der Hautalterung auftreten, verwendet werden. Es ist besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, Glycerin als Moisturizer zu verwenden, bevorzugt in einer Konzentration von 0,05 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 10 Gew.- %, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.For the purposes of the present invention, the moire (s) selected from the group are glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharide gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea , Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble, water-swellable or water-soluble polysaccharides. For example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which are filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available. Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. occur during skin aging, can be used. It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use glycerol as a moisturizer, preferably in a concentration of 0.05 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation.
Sofern die kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung eine Lösung oder Lotion darstellt, können als Lösungsmittel verwendet werden: Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen, ferner Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl, Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren, aber auch Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propy- lenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder - monoethylether und analoge Produkte.If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation is a solution or lotion, the solvents used can be: water or aqueous solutions, furthermore oils, such as Triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil, fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower alkanoic acids Number or with fatty acids, but also alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or - monoethyl ether and analogous products.
Insbesondere werden Gemische der vorstehend genannten Lösungsmittel verwendet, so wie bei alkoholischen Lösungsmitteln Wasser ein vorteilhafter weiterer Bestandteil sein kann.In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used, as may be an advantageous further constituent of alcohol in the case of alcoholic solvents.
Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung, auch z.B. zum Schütze der Haut vor UV-Strahlen, können in verschiedenen Formen vorliegen, wie sie z.B. übli- cherweise für diesen Typ von Zubereitungen eingesetzt werden. So können sie z.B. eine Lösung, eine Emulsion vom Typ Wasser-in-ÖI (W/O) oder vom Typ Öl-in-Wasser (O/W), oder eine multiple Emulsionen, beispielsweise vom Typ Wasser-in-ÖI-in-Wasser (W/O/W), Öl-in- Wasser-in-ÖI (O/W/O), ein Gel, eine Hydrodispersion, eine lamellare Phase, eine flüssige i- sotrope Lösungsphase, eine micellare Phase, eine solide oder dispergierte ein- oder mehrfach hexagonale Phase, eine solide oder dispergierte ein- oder mehrfach kubische Phase, eine Iy- otrope Phase, eine kristalline Phase, einen festen Stift oder auch ein Aerosol darstellen.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention, also e.g. to protect the skin from UV rays may be in various forms, such as e.g. Usually be used for this type of preparations. So they can e.g. a solution, a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion, or a multiple emulsions, such as water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W), oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a lamellar phase, a liquid isotropic solution phase, a micellar phase, a solid or dispersed one. or hexagonal phase, a solid or dispersed single or multiple cubic phase, an isotropic phase, a crystalline phase, a solid stick or even an aerosol.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffe können auch besonders vorteilhaft in Mikroemulsionen, beispielsweise wie in der deutschen Offenlegungsschrift DE-195 9 079 beschrieben, verwendet werden.The active compounds according to the invention can also be used with particular advantage in microemulsions, for example as described in German Offenlegungsschrift DE-195 9 079.
Die Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Al- kancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder unge- sättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C- Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Isopropylmy- ristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n- Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethyl- hexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, z.B. Jojobaöl.The oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2 Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, Erucylerucat and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil.
Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und un- verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, der Silkonöle, der Dialkylether, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkohole, sowie der Fettsäure- triglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, z.B. Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkernöl und dergleichen mehr.Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms. For example, the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.
Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen.Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.
Vorteilhaft wird die Ölphase gewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyldodecanol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isoeicosan, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, C12.15-Alkylbenzoat, Capryl-Caprin- säure-triglycerid, Dicaprylylether.The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12 . 15- alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind Mischungen aus C12.15-Alkylbenzoat und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Mischungen aus C12.15-Alkylbenzoat und Isotridecylisononanoat sowie Mischungen aus C12-15- Alkylbenzoat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat und Isotridecylisononanoat.Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C 12 . 15- alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 12 . 15- Alkylbenzoat and Isotridecylisononanoat and mixtures of C 12-15 - alkyl benzoate, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat.
Von den Kohlenwasserstoffen sind Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden.Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.
Vorteilhaft kann die Ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölphasenkomponenten zu verwenden.Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
Vorteilhaft wird Cyclomethicon (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) als erfindungsgemäß zu verwendendes Silikonöl eingesetzt. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vor- liegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethyl- siloxan, Poly(methylphenylsiloxan). Besonders vorteilhaft sind ferner Mischungen aus Cyclomethicon und Isotridecylisononanoat, aus Cyclomethicon und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.Advantageously, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane). Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.
Vorteilhaft beträgt der Gehalt an der Ölphase zwischen 1 und 50 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, bevorzugt 2,5 - 30 Gew.-%, insbesondere bevorzugt 5 - 15 Gew.-%.Advantageously, the content of the oil phase is between 1 and 50 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, preferably 2.5 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5 to 15 wt .-%.
Zur Anwendung werden die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Formulierungen in der für Kosmetika und Dermatika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht.For use, the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and dermatological agents.
Weitere vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzende Wirkstoffe sind solche, die den Zustand der Haut verbessern, wie insbesondere Wirkstoffe zur Behandlung und/oder Pflege der Altershaut, beispielsweise solche, die die Entstehung von Falten oder auch bestehende Falten vermindern.Further active ingredients to be used in the context of the present invention are those which improve the condition of the skin, in particular active ingredients for the treatment and / or care of aging skin, for example those which reduce the development of wrinkles or even existing wrinkles.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind insbesondere Biochinone, insbesondere Ubichinon (Q10), Folsäure und ihre Derivate (insbesondere Tetrahydrofolsäure und Dihydrofolsäure), Niacin und seine Derivate (insbesondere Niacinamid), Kreatin und Kreatinin, Carnitin, Biotin, Isoflavon, Hopfen- und Hopfen-Malz-Extrakte. Auch Mittel, die die Restrukturierung des Bindegewebes fördern, wie natürliche und synthetische Isoflavonoide sowie Isoflavonoid-haltige Pflanzenextrakte - wie z. B. Soja- und Klee-Extrakte - können in den erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen sehr gut verwendet werden. Auch zeigt sich, dass sich die Formulierungen in besonderer Weise eignen, Wirkstoffe zur Unterstützung der Hautfunktionen bei trockener Haut (wie beispielsweise Vitamin C, Biotin, Carnitin, Grüntee-Extrakte, Eucalyptusöl, Harnstoff und Mineralsalze (wie z. B. NaCI, Meeresmineralien) sowie Osmolyte (wie z. B. Inositol, Betain, quartäre Ammoniumverbindungen)) zu verwenden. Ganz besonders vorteilhaft sind folgenden Wirkstoffe, wobei diese einzeln oder in Kombination eingesetzt werden können: Ubichinon. Folsäure, Kreatin, Carnitin und I- soflavon.Particularly advantageous are in particular biochinones, in particular ubiquinone (Q10), folic acid and its derivatives (in particular tetrahydrofolic acid and dihydrofolic acid), niacin and its derivatives (in particular niacinamide), creatine and creatinine, carnitine, biotin, isoflavone, hop and hops malt extracts , Also agents that promote the restructuring of connective tissue, such as natural and synthetic isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-containing plant extracts - such. As soy and clover extracts - can be used very well in the formulations of the invention. It is also evident that the formulations are particularly suitable as active ingredients for supporting the skin functions in dry skin (such as, for example, vitamin C, biotin, carnitine, green tea extracts, eucalyptus oil, urea and mineral salts (such as, for example, NaCl, marine minerals). and osmolytes (such as inositol, betaine, quaternary ammonium compounds)). Very particularly advantageous are the following active ingredients, which can be used individually or in combination: Ubiquinone. Folic acid, creatine, carnitine and I-soflavone.
Besonders vorteilhaft erwies sich die Einarbeitung von Wirkstoffen zur Linderung irritativer Hautzuständen, sei es bei empfindlicher Haut im allgemeinen oder bei durch Noxen gereizter Haut (UV-Licht, Chemikalien), als vorteilhaft. Hier sind Wirkstoffe zu nennen wie Sericoside, verschiedene Extrakte des Süßholzes, Licochalcone, insbesondere Licochalcon A, Silymarin, Silyphos, Dexpanthenol, Inhibitoren des Prostaglandinstoffwechsels, insbesondere der Cycloo- xygenase und des Leukotrienstoffwechsels, insbesondere der 5-Lipoxyaenase, aber auch des 5-Lipoxvgenase Inhibitor Proteins, FLAP. Die zuvor genannten Wirkstoffe sind ferner insbesondere geeignet, um ein (Energie-) Depot anzulegen oder zu erneuern sowie die Reparatur (Re- pair) unterschiedlicher zellulärer Strukturen, insbesondere der DNA zu aktivieren. Ganz beson- ders vorteilhaft sind hierbei Licochalcone, insbesondere Licochalcon A, und Dexpanthenol,, wobei diese einzeln oder in Kombination eingesetzt werden können.The incorporation of active ingredients for alleviating irritative skin conditions, be it for sensitive skin in general or skin irritated by noxious substances (UV light, chemicals), has proven to be particularly advantageous. Here are agents such as sericosides, various extracts of licorice, licochalcone, especially licochalcone A, silymarin, silyphos, dexpanthenol, inhibitors of prostaglandin metabolism, in particular the cyclooquine xygenase and the leukotriene metabolism, in particular the 5-lipoxygenase, but also the 5-lipoxevase inhibitor protein, FLAP. The abovementioned active substances are furthermore particularly suitable for creating or renewing an (energy) depot and for activating the repair (repair) of different cellular structures, in particular of the DNA. Licochalcones, in particular licochalcone A, and dexpanthenol, which can be used individually or in combination, are very particularly advantageous.
Besonders vorteilhafte Zubereitungen werden ferner erhalten, wenn als Zusatz- oder Wirkstoffe Antioxidantien eingesetzt werden. Erfindungsgemäß enthalten die Zubereitungen vorteilhaft eines oder mehrere Antioxidantien. Als günstige, aber dennoch fakultativ zu verwendende Antioxidantien können alle für kosmetische und dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. As favorable, but nevertheless optional to be used antioxidants all suitable or common for cosmetic and dermatological applications or conventional antioxidants can be used.
Ganz besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können wasserlösliche Antioxi- dantien eingesetzt werden, wie beispielsweise Vitamine, z. B. Ascorbinsäure und deren Derivate - insbesondere Ascorbylpalmitat, Na- und Mg-Ascorbylphosphat und Ascorbylacetat - sowie Rutinsäure und deren Derivate insbesondere alpha Glucosylrutin, Quercetin und Iso- quercetin.Very particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants can be used, such as vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives - in particular ascorbyl palmitate, Na and Mg ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl acetate - and rutinic acid and its derivatives, in particular alpha glucosylrutin, quercetin and isoquercetin.
Besonders bevorzugte Antioxidantien sind ferner Vitamin E und dessen Derivate (insbesondere Vitamin E-Acetat), Vitamin A und dessen Derivate (insbesondere Vitamin-A-Palmitat) sowie Carnosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, beta-Alanin sowie Carotinoide (insbesondere beta-Carotin) und Phytoen.Particularly preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives (especially vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and its derivatives (especially vitamin A palmitate) and carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, beta-alanine and carotenoids (especially beta-carotene) and phytoene.
Die Menge der Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.
Die folgenden Beispiele sollen die Verkörperungen der vorliegenden Erfindungen verdeutlichen. Beispiel 1The following examples are intended to illustrate the embodiments of the present inventions. example 1
INCI Gew.-% Gew.-%INCI% by weight% by weight
Stearinsäure 2 2Stearic acid 2 2
Dicaprylylether 3 3Dicaprylyl ether 3 3
Octyldodecanol 2 2Octyldodecanol 2 2
C12-15 Alkylbenzoate 4 4C12-15 alkyl benzoates 4 4
Cetylalkohol 2 2Cetyl alcohol 2 2
Cetearylethylhexanoat.+ Isopropylmyristat 2 2Cetearyl ethylhexanoate . + Isopropyl myristate 2 2
Glycerin 5 5Glycerol 5 5
Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamat 2 2Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2 2
TiO2 1 1TiO 2 1 1
Cetylpalmitat 1 1Cetyl palmitate 1 1
Glycerylstearat 1 1Glyceryl stearate 1 1
Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4
Butyl_Methoxydibenzoxylmethan 2 2Butyl_methoxydibenzoxylmethane 2 2
Parfüm q.s. q.s.Perfume q.s. q.s.
EDTA 0.2 0.2EDTA 0.2 0.2
Glycyrrhetinsäure 0.1 0.1Glycyrrhetinic acid 0.1 0.1
Dihydroxyaceton 1 ,5 0,5Dihydroxyacetone 1, 5 0.5
Erythrulose — 1Erythrulose - 1
Carbomer 0.2 0.2Carbomer 0.2 0.2
Folsäure 0,05 -Folic acid 0.05 -
Magnesium_Aluminium_Silicat 0.2 0.2Magnesium_Aluminium_Silicat 0.2 0.2
Methylparaben 0.1 0.1Methyl paraben 0.1 0.1
Vitamin E Acetat 0.1 0.1Vitamin E acetate 0.1 0.1
Propylparaben 0.05 0.05Propylparaben 0.05 0.05
BHT 0.05 0.05BHT 0.05 0.05
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 Beispiel 2Water ad 100 ad 100 Example 2
Figure imgf000016_0001
Beispiel 3
Figure imgf000016_0001
Example 3
Figure imgf000017_0001
Beispiel 4 - 6
Figure imgf000017_0001
Example 4 - 6
INCI Gew.-%INCI% by weight
Polyglyceryl-3-Methylglucosedistearat 2 2 2Polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate 2 2 2
Sorbitanstearat 3 3 3Sorbitan stearate 3 3 3
Cetylalkohol 2 2 2Cetyl alcohol 2 2 2
Myristylmyristat 1 1 1Myristyl myristate 1 1 1
Dicaprylylether 3 3 3Dicaprylyl ether 3 3 3
Octyldodecanol 2 2 2Octyldodecanol 2 2 2
C12-15 Alkylbenzoate 3 3 3C12-15 alkyl benzoates 3 3 3
Cetearyll Ethylhexanoat + Isopropylmyristat 2 2 2Cetearyl ethylhexanoate + isopropyl myristate 2 2 2
Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamat 2 2 2Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2 2 2
Ethylhexyltriazon 1 1 1Ethylhexyltriazone 1 1 1
Butylmethoxydibenzoxylmethan 2 2 2Butylmethoxydibenzoxylmethane 2 2 2
Kreatin 0,2 - -Creatine 0.2 - -
Magnesium Aluminium Silicat 0.2 0.2 0.2Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.2 0.2 0.2
Glycerin 5 5 5Glycerol 5 5 5
Phenoxyethanol 0,4 0,4 0,4Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4
Parabene 0,3 0,3 0,3Parabens 0,3 0,3 0,3
Vitamin E Acetat 0,1 0,1 0,1Vitamin E acetate 0.1 0.1 0.1
Glycyrrhetinsäure 0,1 0,1 0,1Glycyrrhetinic acid 0.1 0.1 0.1
Dihydroxyaceton 2,0 1 1 ,5Dihydroxyacetone 2.0 1 1, 5
BHT 0,05 0,05 0,05BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05
EDTA 0,2 0,2 0,2EDTA 0.2 0.2 0.2
Carbomer 0,2 0,2 0,2Carbomer 0.2 0.2 0.2
Parfüm q.s. q.s. q.s.Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s.
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Wirkstoffkombinationen aus a) Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin und b) Dihydroxyaceton sowie gewünschtenfalls c) Erythrulose.1. active ingredient combinations of a) glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin and b) dihydroxyacetone and, if desired, c) erythrulose.
2. Wirkstoffkombinationen nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Gewichtsverhältnisse von Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin einerseits und Dihydroxyaceton andererseits aus dem Bereich von 10 : 1 bis 1 : 100 gewählt werden2. active compound combinations according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratios of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin on the one hand and dihydroxyacetone on the other hand are selected from the range of 10: 1 to 1: 100
3. Wirkstoffkombinationen nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß Ge- Wichtsverhältnisse von Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin einerseits und Dihydroxyaceton andererseits aus dem Bereich von 1 :30 bis 1 :7,5, ganz besonders bevorzugt aus dem Bereich von 1 :20 und 1 :10 gewählt werden.3. active compound combinations according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that weight ratios of glycyrrhetinic and / or glycyrrhizin on the one hand and dihydroxyacetone on the other hand from the range of 1: 30 to 1: 7.5, most preferably from the range of 1:20 and 1: 10.
4. Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Wirkstoffkom- binationen nach einem der vorgehenden Ansprüche.4. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active compound combinations according to one of the preceding claims.
5. Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Wirkstoffkombinationen nach einem der vorgehenden Ansprüche, enthaltend 0,001 - 10 Gew.-% an Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder Glycyrrhizin, besonders bevorzugt 0,01-1 Gew.-% und ganz besonders bevorzugt 0,05-0,25 Gew.-%. , jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.5. Preparations containing an active compound combination according to one of the preceding claims, comprising 0.001-10% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.05-0, 25% by weight. , in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
6. Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Wirkstoffkombinationen nach einem der vorgehenden Ansprüche, enthaltend 0,1 - 3 Gew.-% an Dihydroxyaceton, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.6. Preparations containing active compound combinations according to one of the preceding claims, containing 0.1 to 3 wt .-% of dihydroxyacetone, based on the total weight of the preparations.
7. Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Wirkstoffkombinationen nach einem der vorgehenden Ansprüche, enthaltend 0,1 - 3 Gew.-% an Erythrulose, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. 7. Preparations containing active compound combinations according to one of the preceding claims, containing 0.1 to 3 wt .-% of erythrulose, based on the total weight of the preparations.
8. Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Wirkstoffkombinationen nach einem der vorgehenden Ansprüche, enthaltend 0,001 - 10 Gew.-% an Glycyrrhetinsäure und/oder GIy- cyrrhizin und 0,1 - 3 Dihydroxyaceton sowie 0,1 - 3 Gew.-% Erythrulose.8. Preparations containing active compound combinations according to one of the preceding claims, containing 0.001-10% by weight of glycyrrhetinic acid and / or glycyrrhizin and 0.1-3% of dihydroxyacetone and 0.1-3% by weight of erythrulose.
9. Verwendung von Wirkstoffkombinationen oder Zubereitungen diese enthaltend nach einem der vorangegangenen Ansprüche zur Bräunung der Haut. 9. Use of active compound combinations or preparations containing them according to one of the preceding claims for tanning the skin.
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DE102006020382A1 (en) * 2006-04-28 2007-10-31 Henkel Kgaa Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion, useful e.g. to treat skin, comprises oil or fat phase comprising a component e.g. branched saturated alkanol, water, a cosmetically active substance e.g. monomer and a polysaccharide

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