WO2009045556A1

WO2009045556A1 - Treatment method for revitalizing hair and method of producing keratin protein treatment solution

Info

Publication number: WO2009045556A1
Application number: PCT/US2008/013349
Authority: WO
Inventors: Peter Coppola; Vito Biage Bucario
Original assignee: Peter Coppola; Vito Biage Bucario
Priority date: 2007-10-05
Filing date: 2008-12-04
Publication date: 2009-04-09
Also published as: RU2010116344A; EP2205621A4; EP2205621A1; AU2008307477A1

Abstract

A treatment solution for revitalizing hair includes alpha- keratin protein for re-organizing keratin sulphur molecules which create bends in hair strands, and thus relaxing the hair strands to become straight including linear and cyclic aldehydes, water, cyclo-dimethicone, dimethicone, and cationic guar gum.

Description

TREATMENT METHOD FOR REVITALIZING HAIR AND METHOD OF PRODUCING KERATIN PROTEIN TREATMENT SOLUTION

1. Description of the Prior Art:

Current hair revitalizing and treatment systems involve harsh chemicals, such as oxidizing agents, high concentration of aldehydes and other dangerous chemicals to bind conditioning agents to the hair cuticle. All prior approaches require the treatment carriers to first scar the cuticle and then penetrate deeply into the hair shaft, whereupon the active reactive agents then substitute some of the conditioning reagents into the hair shaft through the cuticle. Over time, the cortical cells get damaged by these chemicals and then the micro-filaments die. Although these prior treatments seems to produce desirable results to gratify the clients, over time, the damage becomes evident and irreversible. This implies that the reactive component of the conditioning treatment will deteriorate over time leaving a scarred and damaged hair shaft that requires even further treatment over time. Also, when a high concentration of formaldehyde is used, the reagents polymerize upon heating the hair with a hot iron, sealing some of the un-reacted agents into the hair shaft for long periods of time. This is very unfortunate since the hair appears healthy and shinny upon application of these harsh chemicals, but in fact the hair is slowly being damaged over time. The cursor agents that existing treatments use must diffuse deeply into the hair to destroy the intrinsic melanin deposits. Repeated use of harsh chemicals tends to damage the hair significantly. Scalp exposure to the chemicals also may induce allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Most hair stylists become ill from over exposure to the harsh ingredients used by existing treatment. The Japanese treatment relies on Lye and other harsh chemicals, while another system known as the Brazilian hair treatment use other forms of Brazilian marine algae with photo-keratin protein, formaldehyde, and other harsh chemicals to infuse the hair with treatment. Photo-keratin is plant based and does not produce the long lasting restoration of the hair shaft that this new invention imparts. This invention provides a systematic platform to enable the formulation of thermal straightening and revitalizing hair care products. In one embodiment, this invention provides a technology for developing hair-revitalizing products that do not require excessive oxidizing or bleaching chemicals. The formulations are based on an entirely different premise for entrapping required chemicals that will revitalize hair and bring it back to a full bodied condition. In a similar manner, re-conditioning advantages, sodium, chlorine and UV- protection as well as prolonged treated life can be achieved with this invention. The formulation and the method of manufacture offers advantages that have not been achievable by other means to date. This new invention applies to a wide range of hair types and proposes a novel platform for new formulations of revitalizing hair treatments.

In several privately done experiments carried throughout the United states and France, the results were acclaimed as revolutionary by experts in the field. One of these experts, a contributing inventors of this new formulation, Peter Coppola, is known for his contributions to hair and fashion world-wide and is well known as an authority on hair products. Another of these experts, Vito Biage Bucario, also a contributing inventor to this new formulation is a renowned hair stylist who upon testing this formulation acclaims it as a revolution in the hair industry. More particularly, this invention is directed to a hair revitalization treatment comprising an ionized - keratin protein with advanced film forming capability. The animal keratin protein complex is carried as a payload in an emulsion of water, Cyclo-dimethicone, Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone and a small fraction of aldehydes which also act as fragrances and stabilizers. The payload of keratin complex is first treated and bonded with p-benzoquinone to prepare it for intense polymerization with aldehyde structures, p- benzoquinone is an oxidizing agent and has very much the same effect on the hair sulphur groups as does formaldehyde. In the formulation, Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone and the Cyclo-Dimethicone-water emulsion acts as a barrier film on the hair shaft during application, holding the oxidants and the keratin protein complex in place. Hair is physically stable due to the presence of protein structure, in particular the amino acids in the endo-cuticle regions. During hair treatment, the emulsion of the ingredients is evenly coated on all the hair shafts. Then, the emulsion is allowed to saturate the hair shaft for about 10 to 20 minutes. During this process, the film reactions of the aldehydes R-CHO groups with sulphur groups on the proteins of the hair shaft occur. These reactions created slow polymerization bonds catalyzed by heat and oxygen that become encased in a layer of special blends of silicone fluids and thus the reactants are prevented from contaminating the environment with affluents. As polymerization occurs, the oxygenated ionic-keratin proteins form a super-strong protective film around the hair shaft that is ionic in character, and thus has a repulsive charge for chlorinated and oxygenated water molecules. The charged sulphur groups present in the hair then form strong bonds with the keratin sulphur groups and the aldehydes reagents. Advantageously, instead of linear aldehydes such as formaldehyde, cyclic aldehydes such as C6, (Citrus smell), C8 (Cinnamon smell) aldehydes can be used which can also act as fragrances for the product. Advantageously, upon application of a hot iron to the coated hair shaft, the silicone fluids such as Cylco-Dimethicone, and Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone form a sealing layer around the polymerization reactions of the keratin sulphur groups, the p-benzoquinone and the aldehydes. These reactions are assisted by the large oxidization capability of the /7-benzoquinone. Thus, the complex reagents do not need to be exposed to the atmosphere for their reactions to occur. The heat is first adsorbed by the silicone fluids and thus allows them to evaporate leaving the reactants sealed in an even and uniform film of keratinous compounds.

Advantageously, the operator performing the treatment of the hair will not be affected by the evaporation of aldehydes or sulphurous fumes, leaving the hair well protected from the environment. Excess silicone fluids remain on the hair as conditioning fluids that impart shine and uniformity to the hair shaft. The base reactions are mostly of the form:

— S

\

RH₂

Here, R-CHO representing an aldehyde group which may also perform fragrance functions for the complex. Advantageously, one has a formulation for a hair product that has a polymeric- capable structure having reactive functional quinone and aldehyde groups and other characteristics that allow it to be covalently bounded to the hair. Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone is specially formulated Dow-Corning for this type of hair reconditioning and straightening process. It consists of a unique blend of silicone copolymers with both amino and phenyl functionality. The amino functionality enhances deposition on the hair particularly damaged hair, while the phenyl group provided superior shine to the hair. P-benzoquinone is a very good oxidizing agent and also regulates the aldehyde polymerization processes so that they occur at a controlled rate and under suitable conditions of ironing the hair shafts, no harmful effluents are created. This also allows the effluents to be well controlled for slow release, thus preventing any harmful side effects to a hair stylist, patients, or formulation operators. Advantageously, p-benzoquinone, also known as hydroquinone, will act on polyamide groups of the Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone fluids to form strong cross links, so that strong bonding of keratin product is also assisted. This also makes the silicone fluid very stable on the hair shaft and remains effective for several months of shine.

Further, p-benzoquinone is a very good stainer for proteins, and as such it will stabilize the died hair fiber for the treatment. Advantageously, when the correct formulation is developed, the color of the formulation is dominated by the combined effective colors of the keratin compounds and the p-benzoquinone. This means that various shades of brown from very dark hair up to creamy pink blond hair can be treated without affecting or staining the hair externally, since the staining agent will only penetrate and load the hair shaft while the silicone fluids remain as a coating on the outside cuticles. A rich variety of true hair colors emerges that enhance shine and strength to the hair. The rapid formation of keratinous seals around the hair shafts prevents p-benzoquinone from changing the hair shaft externally. Advantageously, the present invention is further directed to methods of treating hair which comprise applying a hair treatment preparation to the hair, the hair treatment preparation comprising a payload in an intimate relationship to a polymeric structure, the polymeric structure being reactive to hair or capable of being retained onto or in the hair by advocating heat means using a hot iron. Advantageously, the present invention allows an operator or hair stylist to use the formulation on treated hair without being subjected to adverse fumigants that could cause harm. Advantageously, the fume generating components of the keratin protein complex sulphide chains and aldehyde links are encapsulated by a non-polymeric silicone sealant fluid forming a thermal barrier on the hair shaft so that the hair does not easily damage from excessive heat application. It is an obj ect of the present invention to provide a hair revitalizing and repairing solution and method hair treatment which does not expose hair to harsh chemicals such as oxidizing agents and high concentrations of aldehydes and other dangerous chemicals of bind conditioning agents to the hair cuticle, and which does not scar the cuticle for deep solution penetration into the hair shaft.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a hair revitalizing and repairing solution and method of treatment which traps effluents during ironing of the hair so that the effluents saturate the hair with chemicals which are trapped during treatment.

It is yet another object of the present invention to provide a hair revitalizing and repairing solution and method of treatment which creates a controlled polymerization to increase efficiency and treatment longevity and creates a sealing technology to prevent release of effluents such as formaldehyde harmful to stylists administering the treatment, preventing illness and allergic reactions. It is a still further object of the present invention to provide a hair revitalizing and repairing solution and treatment method which repairs damaged hair by filling recesses or notches in hair strands by bonding ionic-keratin protein to the hair protein via cross-linking with quinones and aldehyde groups. It is another object of the present invention to provide such a treatment solution and method which increases hair strand strain and yield strength by infusing the hair shaft with amino groups of Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone and silicone fluids, which form a readily available deposition site for Keratin protein molecules.

It is still another object of the present invention to provide such a solution and method which adds shine to hair using silicones and the phenol groups of Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone .

It is still another objective of this invention to provide a controlled reaction site for polymerization of scented and non-scented aldehydes which then form covalent bonding sites for keratin sulphur groups and such that a film of silicone forms an atmospheric barrier for the reactants.

It is yet another objective of this invention to provide p-benzoquinone as an oxidizing agent for polymerization reactions, so that a controlled polymerization of aldehyde groups can be achieved without the release of any un-reacted aldehyde molecules into the atmosphere.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a hair revitalizing and repairing solution and method of treatment which permits the user to swim and wash hair on the same day. It is finally an object of the present invention to provide such a solution and method which is easy to use and practice and is safe and inexpensive. 2. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

The following examples are intended to illustrate some, but not all, of the concepts described in this disclosure, and are in no way intended to limit it. One skilled in the art would also see that different ideas from different examples or from the above explanation could be combined to yield other possible ways of treating hair.

Figure 1 shows a typical applicator bottle for the present invention with a comb dispenser . Figure 2 shows the method of producing hydrolized keratin protein of the finest quality. Figure 3 shows the general Hair cuticle penetration procedure for Coppola hair treatment. Figure 4 shows a typical formulation of the Corolla keratin treatment. Figure 5 shows how damaged areas of the cuticle open up to accept treatment when the hair is straightened.

Figure 6 shows how the treatment makes keratin sulphur bonds with the damaged areas of the hair. Figure 7 shows the effect of each component of the treatment on hair properties. Figure 8 shows the preparation flow chart of the formulation. Figure 9 shows the application of the formulation to hair by a stylist in a salon.

Figure 10 shows yet another formulation of the treatment. Figure 11 shows yet again another formulation of the treatment.

Figure 12 shows an applicator bottle with a small sampler bottle and a professional use bottle. Figure 13 shows the method of manufacture and distribution of the Coppola Keratin Treatment system.

Figure 14 shows an electric hot iron for performing the treatment.

Figure 15 shows how sulphur bonds are reorganized from curly hair to straight ironed hair after treatment.

3.0 DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

As required, detailed embodiments of the present invention are disclosed herein; however, it is to be understood that the disclosed embodiments are merely exemplary of the invention which may be embodied in various forms. Therefore, specific structural and functional details disclosed herein are not to be interpreted as limiting, but merely as a basis for the claims and as a representative basis for teaching one skilled in the art to variously employ the present invention in virtually any appropriately detailed structure.

Reference is now made to the drawings, wherein like characteristics and features of the present invention shown in the various FIGURES are designated by the same reference numerals.

Methods

Referring to FIGURES 1-15, a production method is disclosed of formulating a keratin protein hair revitalizing and treatment solution, and a treatment method is further disclosed for repairing damaged hair using the treatment solution causing keratin bonding at damaged sites on hair strands. Method of Producing ionized α- Keratin Protein Extract, an ingredient of the formulation.

The method of producing the treatment solution involves the use of hydrolized α- keratin proteins which are prepared according to the following steps: synthesizing Alpian-wool α-keratin protein is extracted from sheep wool by patented processes subsequent to processes disclosed in US patent number, US 7,148327; heating and vaporizing said keratin to a fine mist; hydrolyzing the vaporized α- keratin protein with high electric current in water in the order of 200 amps per cubic meter ; adding a trace quantity of iron-oxide and a trace quantity of methanol for iron aldehyde chain formation; feeding 6% to 7% of keratinized water through a filter to sift very fine ionized α- keratin proteins in the high molecular ranges of 12000-19000 Daltons. The following examples are intended to illustrate some, but not all, of the concepts described in this disclosure, and are in no way intended to limit it. One skilled in the art would also see that different ideas from different examples or from the above explanation could be combined to yield other possible ways of treating hair.

Method of Producing Treatment Solution

The method of producing the treatment solution involves the use of hydrolized α- keratin proteins which are prepared according to the following steps: synthesizing Alpian- wool α- keratin protein; heating and vaporizing to a fine mist the α- keratin protein; hydrolyzing the vaporized α- keratin protein with high electric current in water in the order of 200 amps; adding a trace quantity of iron-oxide and a trace quantity of methanol for iron aldehyde chain formation; feeding 6% to 7% of keratinized water through a filter to sift very fine proteins in the high molecular ranges of 12000-19000 Daltons.

As set forth in FIGURE 8, the method of producing treatment solution more specifically includes the steps of: boiling a 10 % of the water needed water to creates bacteria free water ; adding tri-ionic α- keratin protein in a sealed chamber without exposing the solvents to air; adding cat-ionic guar gum for thickening to the required viscosity of about 2000 centipoise; slowly adding p- benzoquinone and other reagents with the exception of Cyclo-dimethicone and Dimethicone blends; stirring well until all components are blended to form phase A.

Then, preparation of phase B by boiling 90% percent of the distilled water in a separate reactor vessel; then, warming the remaining Cyclodimethicone; adding Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone Fluid to the mixture of phase B; adding Poly-glyceryl-laurate 10, Jojoba oil extract, and Vitamin E oil; stirring well until fully blended to form phase B; adding phase A to phase B; slowly blending to a uniform mixture; slowly stirring until fully blended with phase A to form phase B cooling to room temperature to form formula A; then, packaging formula A in high density polyethylene bottles for consumer use. All these ingredients are proportioned according to formulas, A, B and C in figures 4, 10 and 11 , respectively.

Method of Repairing Damaged Hair with Treatment Solution

The hair treatment method involves a general hair strand penetration procedure, including the steps of: washing the hair thoroughly once or twice with a shampoo product, preferably a sodium free shampoo; towel drying the hair, then blow-drying hair completely dry; applying one of the said formulations identified in figures 4,10 and 11, according to the embodiments evenly to the hair strands using a fine toothed comb or an application brush for easy spreading; permitting ionized α- keratin protein sulphides and aldehydes to react on sulfide bonds of the keratin structure of hair according to the general reaction sequence RSSR + HSO3 → RSH + RSSO3; and permitting the keratin protein from solution and aldehydes to penetrate and bond to hair strands to increase hair- strain and yield-strength; leaving the solution on the hair for 10 to 20 minutes or as desired by an operator's experience; then hot-ironing the hair using an electric heating iron to raise the hair temperature of the reactants and the hair strands greater than 300 degrees F but less than 450 degrees F; said reactants polymerizing into a fine film of keratinous compounds around the hair strands; said polymerization rate controlled by the presence of a quinone, so that very little or no effluent gases are released to the environment; said reactants being sealed into the hair shaft with a keratinous and a linear aldehyde co valently bonded agents, so that said reactants are not exposed to the environment, and such that the reaction rate is controlled create a pliable film around the hair cuticle, so that said pliable film remains as an effective protector to the hair over a long period of time after the treatment. As set forth in FIGURE 9, the hair treatment method more specifically includes the steps of: shampooing hair with a non-sodium shampoo to an oil-free and clean condition; completely or partially drying the hair with a blow-dryer, and preferably with an ionic type hair dryer; gradually applying one of the said formulations identified in figures 4,10 and 11 , to hair strands using one of a special applicator and a soft horse hair brush, and while applying the solution, making sure the time sequence for each segment of hair treated corresponds to the same time sequence for applying the hot iron; waiting at least 15 minutes for the formulation to penetrate the hair strands and form bonds with damaged exposed areas; heat hair strands to a temperature of at least 375 degrees F and at most 470 degrees F, the upper limit being necessary because a greater temperature would destroy the Cyclodimethicone by evaporating it completely and also cause the breakdown of the formula into formic acid; and applying a hot iron 5 to 7 times to the hair while simultaneously combing with fine toothed comb until all moisture has been eliminated from hair strands, causing a reaction of the form:

FIGURE 5 shows a segment of damaged hair strands that has been straightened to open up the cuticle for product. FIGURES 6 show the progressive treatment method results on a damaged hair strand having recessed or notched damage areas, similar to those shown in FIGURE 5 is being cured with quantities of keratin proteins bonding unto the recesses or notched damage areas.

FIGURE 7, tabulates the components constituting the treatment solution with corresponding component actions and the results produced by the components. The color of the solution can be varied from a creamy yellow color to a dark brown color depending on the amount of p-benzoquinone present. The treatment solution if left as a film on a surface will after some time form a strong fine film layer of α- keratin that has a very high tensile strength. This film is what forms around the damaged cuticle as a protective and restoring medium for damaged hair strands. Cuticle damage can penetrate all the way into the sublayer of the ortho- cortical cells and expose the endo-cuticle layers to the environment. This leads to split hair strands and damaged ends.

The components of α-keratin of wool, quills and hair, in particular the micro-fibril composite matrix, consists of low-sulphur proteins with high glycerine tyrosine proteins. Keratin matrices absorb water, and thus, it is critical that the hair strands be completely dried during application of the treatment.

Multi-phase protein model theory.

In accordance with the present invention, a multi-phase protein structure is present wherein keratin protein, water, p-benzoquinone, glycerine tyrosine, amino-acids and aldehydes form a protein complex in multi-phase. Water molecules trapped by keratin proteins behave as polymers because of the electrostatic properties imparted to the ionized keratin protein. The combination of microfibril- matrix proteins and the water present in the cortex act to modify the stress and strain capabilities of the hair. Thus, the electrical conductivity of the keratin protein in the hair and in the treatment solution depend on the water content and the ionic character of the Keratin molecules. Charged component interchange between the water molecules and the keratin proteins result in a rapid exchange of sulphur bonds which bind additional keratin from the treatment solution to the hair by covalent bonds. Thus, the exchange is enhanced by energy from heating the hair strands. When excess water is evaporated by drying, interstitial bonding between keratin proteins takes place, until the hair strand is saturated with keratin product. The heat generated by ironing the hair then polymerizes the keratin-sulphur bind with aldehydes groups, sealing keratin proteins in place. p-benzoquinone, stabilizes the rate of disulfide bond formation and thus acts to control the polymerization process without hindering the treatment. The oxidation of the hair byp-benzoquinone results in a major reduction in bi-sulfide bonds and thus produce reactions that are well controlled with little or no affluent gases.

While the invention has been described, disclosed, illustrated and shown in various terms or certain embodiments or modifications which it has assumed in practice, the scope of the invention is not intended to be, nor should it be deemed to be, limited thereby and such other modifications or embodiments as may be suggested by the teachings herein are particularly reserved especially as they fall within the breadth and scope of the claims here appended.

Claims

We claim as our invention:

1. A method of producing a treatment solution for repairing damaged hair, comprising the steps of: ionizing α-keratin protein by heating and vaporizing to a fine mist; hydrolyzing the vaporized α-keratin protein with water and passing an electric current through said hydrolyzed α-keratin protein in the order of 200 amps per cubic meter; adding a trace quantity of iron-oxide and a trace quantity of methanol for iron aldehyde chain formation; adding cylcic and linear aldehydes; feeding 6% to 7% of keratinized water through a filter to sift very fine proteins in the high molecular ranges of 12000-19000 Daltons; boiling a 10 % of the water needed water to creates bacteria free water; adding tri-ionic keratin protein in a sealed chamber without exposing the solvents to air; adding cat-ionic guar gum for thickening to the required viscosity of between 2000 and 5000 centistokes; slowly adding p-benzoquinone and other reagents with the exception of Cyclo- dimethicone and Dimethicone blends; stirring well until all components are blended to form phase A; and preparing phase B by boiling 90% percent of the distilled water in a separate reactor vessel; warming the remaining Cyclodimethicone; adding Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone Fluid to the mixture of phase B; adding Poly-glyceryl-laurate 10, Jojoba oil extract, and Vitamin E oil; stirring well until fully blended to form phase B; adding phase A to phase B; slowly blending to a uniform mixture; slowly stirring until fully blended with phase A to form phase B; cooling mixture to room temperature.

2. A treatment solution for repairing damaged hair, comprising: α- keratin protein for re-organizing keratin sulphur bonds and breaking disulfide bridges and cross-linking various sulphur molecules which create bends in hair strands, and thus relaxing said hair strands to become straight including linear and cyclic aldehydes, water, cyclo-dimethicone, dimethicone, and cat-ionic guar gum.

3. A treatment solution for repairing damaged hair, according to claim 1 comprising: a keratin protein complex carried in an emulsion of water, silicone, with an oxidant such as p-benzoquinone to control the polymerization rate of keratin sulphur and linear and cyclic aldehyde structures for bonding to hair cuticles; cyclo-dimethicone;

Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone to provide shine and conditioning; cationic guar gum for thickening the formulation and conditioning of the hair; cyclic and linear aldehydes for acting as polymeric links with hair sulphur protein and for forming a barrier film on the hair shaft to seal aldehydes and oxidants and keratin protein complexes against release into the environment during application and protecting the hair from environmental damage; forming a barrier film by regulating the polymerization rate with a quinone during application of heat such that no harmful effluents are released; and cyclic aldehyde groups for stabilizing the solution and for producing fragrances.

4. The treatment solution according to claim 1, wherein said aldehyde structures are cyclic and linear aldehydes which also function to produce fragrances.

5. The treatment solution according to claim 1, wherein said aldehyde structures are linear and polymerizable with keratin sulphur bonds.

6. A method of sealing keratin protein treatment into hair through the application of heat and polymerization comprising reactions of the form:

CH₂SH CH , — S — RCHOH CH

RH₂