WO2009080670A2

WO2009080670A2 - Composition comprising an alkanolamine, an amino acid and a polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester

Info

Publication number: WO2009080670A2
Application number: PCT/EP2008/067788
Authority: WO
Inventors: Frédéric Legrand; Jean-Marc Ascione
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2007-12-20
Filing date: 2008-12-17
Publication date: 2009-07-02
Also published as: WO2009080670A3; FR2925317A1; FR2925317B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more alkanolamines, one or more amino acids and one or more polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters. The present invention also relates to processes for bleaching and/or dyeing keratin fibres, and also to multi-compartment devices or 'kits' for performing these processes.

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ALKANOLAMINE, AN AMINO ACID AND A POLYOXYETHYLENATED SORBITAN ESTER

The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more alkanolamines, one or more amino acids and one or more polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters.

It is known practice to use oxidizing compositions for treating the hair, especially for dyeing human keratin fibres, and in particular the hair, with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, which are generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.

The oxidation dyeing process consists in applying to keratin fibres oxidation bases or a mixture of oxidation bases and couplers with an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide (or aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution), which is added at the time of use.

Generally, this process is performed at an alkaline pH, especially in the presence of aqueous ammonia, and can produce dyeing and simultaneous lightening of the fibre, which is reflected in practice by the possibility of obtaining a final coloration that is lighter than the original colour. In addition, lightening of the fibre has the advantageous effect of generating a unified colour in the case of depigmented hair, and, in the case of naturally pigmented hair, of bringing out the colour, i.e. making it more visible.

It is also known practice to dye human keratin fibres via "semi -permanent" dyeing or direct dyeing, which involves dyes that are themselves capable of effecting a more or less pronounced modification of the natural coloration of the hair.

These direct dyes may also be used in combination with oxidizing agents, when it is desired to obtain a coloration that is lighter than the original colour of the fibres. Thus, these direct dyes may be used in lightening direct dye compositions based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution and aqueous ammonia or in oxidation dyeing compositions in combination with oxidation bases and/or couplers.

Moreover, when a person wishes to bleach his hair, it is also known practice to perform the bleaching using lightening products based on aqueous ammonia and hydrogen peroxide .

Thus, it is common practice to make use of alkaline oxidizing compositions based on hydrogen peroxide and aqueous ammonia for dyeing and/or bleaching human keratin fibres, and in particular the hair.

However, although these working conditions prove to be efficient, they may lead to a certain amount of unpleasantness at the time of use.

In particular, when these compositions are applied to the hair, there is generally a release of ammonia, which may lead to a suffocating odour and irritation to the eyes, the respiratory pathways and mucous membranes .

Furthermore, ammonia may cause, especially in the case of people with a sensitive scalp, discomfort reactions such as redness, itching or stinging.

Finally, ammonia, in combination with the oxidizing agent, may also contribute towards damaging the keratin fibres. Specifically, over time, it is observed that the fibres are more or less degraded and have a tendency to become coarse, dull, brittle and difficult to style.

Thus, to overcome all the drawbacks described above, numerous alternatives have already been proposed in order to significantly reduce the content of ammonia in compositions intended for dyeing and/or bleaching fibres.

To this end, it has been proposed to apply to the hair dyeing and/or bleaching compositions comprising a nonvolatile organic amine, such as monoethanolamine. Although such compositions have the advantage of not giving off ammonia during their use, they usually cause discomfort reactions, in particular irritation in the case of people with a sensitive scalp. Furthermore, for equivalent lightening performance qualities, monoethanolamine damages the hair more than aqueous ammonia.

Other compositions combining aqueous ammonia with a water-soluble ammonium salt have also been envisaged. Such compositions are especially described in patent application EP 0 148 466.

However, these compositions cannot satisfactorily reduce the unpleasant odours caused by the release of ammonia, and the lightening performance qualities of compositions of this type remain limited when compared with ammonia-based compositions.

Similarly, compositions containing compounds such as ammonium, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal carbonates or hydrogen carbonates have been proposed.

Although these compositions allow the ammonia content to be significantly reduced, their lightening performance qualities still remain inferior to those of ammonia- based compositions. Furthermore, these compositions continue to strongly damage keratin fibres.

Alternatively, compositions based on neutral or basic amino acids have been envisaged in order to totally or partially replace the content of aqueous ammonia.

Thus, patent EP 0 840 593 describes ammonia-free compositions especially comprising, as alkaline agent, a mixture based on a compound chosen from amino acids and oligopeptides containing an amine group and a -COOH or -SO₃H group and a compound chosen from the group formed by monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2- amino-2-methylpropanol , 2 -amino-2 -methyl -1 , 3 -propane- diol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-l , 3-propanediol and 2-amino-2- methylbutanol .

Similarly, patent applications JP 2004-262 885 and JP 2004-262 886 describe ammonia-free compositions based on neutral or basic amino acids, non-volatile amine and an organic acid ammonium ion.

Finally, patent US 5 131 912 describes compositions based on neutral or basic amino acids and alkaline agents such as ammonium or alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal hydrogen carbonates . The mixture before use of these alkaline compositions, with an oxidizing hydrogen peroxide composition, has a pH of between 6.5 and 7.9.

Although such compositions have the advantage of not giving off ammonia during their use, they still cannot equal the level of performance, in terms of lightening, of ammonia-based compositions. Furthermore, these compositions may cause irritation of the scalp.

Moreover, it is known practice from patent application FR 0 552 492 to use particular polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters, especially with low ethoxylation, i.e. in which the number of moles of ethylene oxide is less than 25, to overcome scalp discomfort reactions.

The aim of the present invention is to reduce the content of aqueous ammonia in compositions intended especially for dyeing and/or bleaching, in order to reduce the accompanying unpleasant odour, the irritation of the scalp and the damage to keratin fibres, while at the same time maintaining good dyeing and/or bleaching properties.

This aim is achieved with the present invention, one subject of which is a composition for treating keratin fibres, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - one or more alkanolamines ;

- one or more amino acids,- and

- one or more polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters,- the alkanolamines/amino acids mole ratio being less than or equal to 10.

The composition according to the invention has the advantage of minimizing or even eliminating the drawbacks caused by the release of ammonia.

The composition according to the invention can also reduce the discomfort that may be experienced at the time of application of the said composition to the keratin fibres on the scalp.

Furthermore, the composition makes it possible to reduce the damage to the fibres when compared with standard bleaching and/or dyeing compositions containing aqueous ammonia as main alkaline agent.

When it is used with oxidation bases and/or couplers and/or direct dyes, a dye composition is obtained that has the additional advantage of having good dyeing properties, especially powerful, chromatic, sparingly selective colorations that show good resistance to the various attacking factors to which hair may be subjected.

When the composition according to the invention is used with an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, a bleaching or lightening composition is obtained that has the additional advantage of giving satisfactory lightening of keratin fibres.

A subject of the present invention is also processes for bleaching and/or dyeing keratin fibres, and also multi -compartment devices or "kits" for performing these processes.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the indicated ranges are included in the invention.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the alkanolamine (s) is (are) chosen from monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanol- amine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol , triisopropanolamine, 2- amino-2-methyl-l, 3 -propanediol , 3-amino-l, 2-propane- diol, 3 -dimethylamino-1 , 2 -propanediol and tris (hydroxy- methyl) aminomethane .

Monoethanolamine is preferably used.

The alkanolamine (s) is (are) generally present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an amount of between 0.1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight and more preferentially between 1% and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the amino acid(s) comprise (s) one or more amine functions and one or more acid functions. The acid function (s) may be carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric, and preferably carboxylic.

The amino acids present in the composition in accordance with the invention preferably have a molecular weight of less than 500.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the amino acid(s) present in the oxidizing composition in accordance with the present invention is (are) α-amino acids, i.e. they comprise an amine function and a group R located in the alpha position relative to the acid function. They may be represented, for example, by the following formula:

R-CH—COOH (I) N(H)_p in which: p denotes 1 or 2 ;

R represents a hydrogen atom, an aliphatic group possibly comprising a heterocyclic portion, or an aromatic group,- when p = l, R may also form with the nitrogen atom of -N (H) p a heterocycle. This heterocycle is preferably a saturated 5-membered ring, optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C₄ alkyl or hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, the aliphatic group is a linear or branched Ci-C₄ alkyl group,- a linear or branched Ci-C₄ hydroxyalkyl group,- a linear or branched Ci-C₄ aminoalkyl group,- a linear or branched (Ci-C₄ alkyl) thio (Ci-C₄) alkyl group,- a linear or branched C₂-C₄ carboxyalkyl group,- a linear or branched ureidoalkyl group, a linear or branched guanidinoalkyl group, a linear or branched imidazoloalkyl group or a linear or branched indolylalkyl group, the alkyl portions of these last four groups containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms .

Preferably, the aromatic group is a C₆ aryl or C₇-Ci₀ aralkyl group, the aromatic nucleus being optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C₄ alkyl or hydroxyl groups .

As amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, asparagine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine and hydroxyproline .

The amino acids that are particularly preferred in the present invention are arginine, glycine, histidine and lysine.

The compositions used in accordance with the invention generally have an amino acid concentration of between 0.1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight and more preferentially between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the alkanolamines/amino acids mole ratio is greater than or equal to 0.1 and preferably greater than or equal to 1. Even more preferentially, this ratio is greater than or equal to 1.5.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester (s) has

(have) a number of moles of ethylene oxide of less than

25, preferably less than or equal to 10, more preferentially less than 6, and even more preferentially ranging from 2 to 5. As examples of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters in which the number of moles of ethylene oxide is less than or equal to 10, which are useful in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 20 EO, or Polysorbate-20, sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 4 EO, or Polysorbate-21 , sorbitan monostearate oxyethylenated with 4 EO, or Polysorbate-61 , and sorbitan monooleate oxyethylenated with 5 EO, or Polysorbate-81. These sorbitan esters are sold, for example, by the company Uniqema under the name Tween 20, Tween 21, Tween 61 or Tween 81.

According to the present invention, the sorbitan ester (s) may be present in the composition in a very variable amount as a function, for example, of the type of dyes when the composition contains the same, or of the nature of the keratin fibres to be dyed. According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may contain an amount of sorbitan ester ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more particularly an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% and preferably an amount ranging from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises monoethanolamine, arginine and Polysorbate-20.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol , lysine and Polysorbate-21.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises monoethanolamine, histidine and Polysorbate-21. The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise one or more additional alkaline agents.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the additional alkaline agent (s) is (are) chosen from alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal silicates .

The alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals may be chosen from lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium and barium.

Preferably, the additional alkaline agent is sodium metasilicate .

Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention does not contain any aqueous ammonia.

When they are present, the additional alkaline agent (s) preferably represent (s) from 0.1% to 5% by weight approximately, and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight approximately, relative to the total weight of the dye composition.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises monoethanolamine, one or more amino acids, one or more polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters and sodium metasilicate.

Preferably, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises monoethanolamine, arginine, Polysorbate-20 and sodium metasilicate.

The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise one or more oxidizing agents chosen, for example, from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, and enzymes such as peroxidases and two- electron or four-electron oxidoreductases . The use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred.

The content of oxidizing agents in the composition may be between 0.1% and 10% by weight of the composition and preferably between 0.5% and 6% by weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition after mixing with the oxidizing agent is generally between 5.5 and 10.5 and preferably between 6 and 10.

The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise one or more surfactants the other than the polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters, chosen from anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants.

The oxidizing composition according to the invention may also contain one or more fatty substances. The fatty substance (s) that may be used in the context of the present invention is (are) especially chosen from plant oils, animal oils, mineral oils, natural or synthetic oils, and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof .

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more thickeners, also known as "rheology modifiers" .

Non-associative gelling agents may be used as rheology modifiers; among these agents are colloidal silicates, polyethylene glycols, polyvinylpyrrolidones and hydrophilic silica gels.

The rheology modifiers may also be chosen from fatty acid amides (coconut monoethanolamide or diethanol- amide, or oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide) , cellulose-based thickeners

(hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose) , guar gum and derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar) , gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum or scleroglucan gum) , crosslinked acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid homopolymers or copolymers, and associative thickening polymers.

These associative polymers are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain.

Associative polymers may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type.

The amount of thickeners present in the composition according to the invention is between 0.01% and 10% and preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more anhydrous cationic or amphoteric conditioning polymers, for instance those described in French patents 2 788 974 and 2 788 976 and as described hereinbelow.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "conditioning polymer" means a polymer that can improve the cosmetic properties of keratin fibres, such as the disentangling, the feel, the smoothness, the sheen and the volume . The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from any of those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair, namely, especially, those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.

When they are present in the composition according to the present invention, the cationic and/or amphoteric polymers are present in a total weight proportion of less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 8% and better still between 0.1% and 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with keratin fibres and in particular the hair.

The medium that is suitable for the composition according to the invention is a cosmetically acceptable medium generally comprising water or a mixture of water and of one or more organic solvents. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include Ci-C₄ lower alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol ; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2- butoxyethanol , propylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol , and mixtures thereof .

The solvents are preferably present in proportions of between 1% and 40% by weight approximately, and even more preferentially between 5% and 30% by weight approximately, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound (s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition (s) .

The composition according to the invention may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams or gels, or in any other form that is suitable for dyeing and/or bleaching keratin fibres, and especially human keratin fibres such as the hair.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more oxidation bases and/or one or more couplers and/or one or more direct dyes.

When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases and/or one or more couplers and/or one or more direct dyes, the said composition is then a dye composition.

When the dye composition comprises, as dye(s), one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers, the said composition is then an oxidation dye composition.

The oxidation base(s) is (are) chosen from the oxidation bases conventionally used for oxidation dyeing. By way of example, the oxidation bases may be chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis (phenyl) - alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof with an acid or with an alkaline agent.

Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned more particularly, for example, are para- phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine , 2 , 3 -dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine , 2 , 6 -dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine , 2 , 6 -diethyl -para- phenylenediamine , 2 , 5 -dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine , N, N-dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl -para- phenylenediamine , N, N-dipropyl -para-phenylenediamine , 4 -amino-N, N-diethyl -3 -methylaniline, N, N-bis (β-hydroxy- ethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 4 -N, N-bis (β-hydroxy- ethyl) amino-2 -methylaniline, 4 -N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) - amino- 2 -chloroaniline, 2 -β-hydroxyethyl -para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl- para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -para- phenylenediamine, 2 -hydroxymethyl -para-phenylenediamine , N, N-dimethyl - 3 -methyl -para-phenylenediamine , N-ethyl-N- (β-hydroxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N- (β,γ-dihydroxypropyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N- (4' -aminophenyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenyl- enediamine, 2 -β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine and 4 ' -aminophenyl- 1- (3 -hydroxy) pyrrolidine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid or with an alkaline agent.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, the ones most particularly preferred are para- phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2 -β-hydroxyethyl -para-phenylene- diamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2 , 6 -dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine , 2 , 6 -diethyl -para- phenylenediamine , 2 , 3 -dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine , N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylamino- ethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid or with an alkaline agent.

Among the bis (phenyl) alkylenediamines that may be mentioned more particularly, for example, are N, N' -bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N' -bis (4' -aminophenyl) -1, 3- diaminopropanol , N, N' -bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N' -bis (4 ' - aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N' -bis (4 -aminophenyl) - tetramethylenediamine, N, N' -bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N' - bis (4 -aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N' -bis (4- methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N' -bis- (ethyl) -N, N' -bis (4 ' -amino-3 ' -methylphenyl) ethylene- diamine and 1, 8-bis (2, 5-diaminophenoxy) -3, 5-dioxa- octane, and the addition salts thereof with an acid or with an alkaline agent.

Among the para-aminophenols that may be mentioned more particularly, for example, are para-aminophenol , 4 -amino-3 -methylphenol , 4 -amino-3 -fluorophenol , 4 -amino-3 -hydroxymethylphenol , 4-amino-2-methylphenol , 4 -amino-2 -hydroxymethylphenol , 4 -amino-2 -methoxy- methylphenol , 4 -amino-2 -aminomethylphenol , 4-amino- 2- (β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol and 4-amino- 2-fluorophenol , and the addition salts thereof with an acid or with an alkaline agent.

Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned more particularly, for example, are 2-aminophenol , 2-amino- 5-methylphenol , 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido- 2-aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid or with an alkaline agent.

Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned more particularly, for example, are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives, and the addition salts thereof with an acid or with an alkaline agent. Mention will be made most particularly of l-β-hydroxyethyl-4 , 5-diaminopyrazole and 2,3- diamino-6, 7-dihydro-lH, 5H-pyrazolo [1, 2 -a] pyrazol-1-one, and the salts thereof.

When they are used, the oxidation base(s) preferably represent (s) from 0.005% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The coupler (s) is (are) chosen from the couplers conventionally used for oxidation dyeing. By way of example, the coupler (s) is (are) chosen from the couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibres. Among these couplers, mention may be made especially of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta- diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and the addition salts thereof with an acid or with an alkaline agent.

These couplers are more particularly chosen from 2- methyl-5-aminophenol , 5-N- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2- methylphenol , 3-aminophenol , 1 , 3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3- dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l , 3-dihydroxybenzene, 2 , 4-diamino-l- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2- amino-4- (β-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 1,3- diaminobenzene, 1 , 3-bis (2 , 4-diaminophenoxy) propane, sesamol, α-naphthol, 6 -hydroxyindole, 4 -hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 6 -hydroxyindoline, 2,6- dihydroxy-4 -methylpyridine , 1 -H- 3 -methylpyrazol - 5 -one , l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2 , 6-dimethylpyrazolo- [1, 5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2, 6 -dimethyl [3,2-c]-l,2,4- triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo [1 , 5-a] benzimidazole, and the addition salts thereof with an acid or with an alkaline agent.

When they are present, the coupler (s) preferably represent (s) from 0.001% to 15% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are especially chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines . When the dye composition does not comprise any oxidation bases or couplers, but only direct dyes, the composition is then an optionally lightening direct dye composition.

The direct dye(s) that may be used in the dye composition may be chosen from neutral, acidic or cationic nitrobenzene dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic azo direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic quinone and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, azine direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, indoamine direct dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as a mixture.

Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following compounds:

- 1 , 4 -diamino-2 -nitrobenzene

- 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethy1aminobenzene

- l-amino-2-nitro-4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene - 1 , 4-bis (β-hydroxyethylamino) -2 -nitrobenzene

- l-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis (β-hydroxyethylamino) benzene

- 1 - β -hydroxyethy1amino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene

- l-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl) (β-hydroxy- ethyl) aminobenzene

- 1 -amino- 3 -methyl -4 -β-hydroxyethylamino- 6 -nitrobenzene

- 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethy1amino- 5 -chlorobenzene

- 1 , 2 -diamino-4 -nitrobenzene

- 1 -amino- 2 - β -hydroxyethy1amino- 5 -nitrobenzene - 1 , 2-bis (β-hydroxyethylamino) -4 -nitrobenzene

- l-amino-2-tris (hydroxymethyl) methylamino- 5 -nitrobenzene

- 1 -hydroxy- 2 -amino- 5 -nitrobenzene

- 1 -hydroxy- 2 -amino-4 -nitrobenzene - l-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene

- l-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitro- benzene

- l-methoxy-2- β-hydroxyethylamino- 5 -nitrobenzene

- l-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4 -nitrobenzene - 1-β , γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4 -nitrobenzene

- l-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-β , γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2- nitrobenzene

- 1-β , γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2- nitrobenzene

- l-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl- 2 -nitrobenzene

- l-β-hydroxyethylamino-3 -methyl- 2 -nitrobenzene

- 1 - β -aminoethylamino- 5 -methoxy- 2 -nitrobenzene

- 1 -hydroxy- 2 -chloro- 6 -ethylamino-4 -nitrobenzene - l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene

- 1 -hydroxy- 6 -bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino- 3 -nitrobenzene

- 1-β-hydroxyethylamino- 2 -nitrobenzene

- 1 -hydroxy-4 - β -hydroxyethy1amino- 3 -nitrobenzene .

Among the azo direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772, EP 714954, FR 2 822 696, FR 2 825 702, FR 2 825 625, FR 2 822 698, FR 2 822 693, FR 2 822 694, FR 2 829 926, FR 2 807 652, WO 02/078660, WO 02/100834, WO 02/100369 and FR 2 844 269, the content of which forms an integral part of the invention.

Among these compounds, the following dyes may be mentioned most particularly:

1 , 3 -dimethyl -2- [ [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] azo] -IH- imidazolium chloride,

1 , 3 -dimethyl -2- [ (4-aminophenyl) azo] -lH-imidazolium chloride, - 1 -methyl -4- [ (methylphenylhydrazono) methyl] pyridin- ium methyl sulfate.

Among the azo direct dyes that may also be mentioned are the following dyes, described in the Colour Index International, 3rd edition:

- Acid Yellow 9

- Acid Black 1

- Basic Red 22

- Basic Red 76 - Basic Yellow 57

- Basic Brown 16

- Acid Yellow 36

- Acid Orange 7 - Acid Red 33

- Acid Red 35

- Basic Brown 17

- Acid Yellow 23

- Acid Orange 24.

Mention may also be made of 1- (4 ' -aminodiphenylazo) -2- methyl-4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene and 4 -hydroxy- 3- (2-methoxyphenylazo) -1-naphthalenesulfonic acid.

Among the quinone direct dyes that may be mentioned are the following dyes:

- Acid Violet 43

- Acid Blue 62

- Basic Blue 22 - Basic Blue 99 and also the following compounds:

- l-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthra- quinone

- l-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone - 1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone

- 5-β-hydroxyethyl-l , 4-diaminoanthraquinone

- 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone

- 1 , 4 -bis (β , γ-dihydroxypropylamino) anthraquinone .

Among the azine dyes that may be mentioned are the following compounds:

- Basic Blue 17

- Basic Red 2.

Among the triarylmethane dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds:

- Basic Green 1

- Acid Blue 9 - Basic Violet 3

- Basic Violet 14

- Basic Blue 7

- Acid Violet 49 - Basic Blue 26

- Acid Blue 7.

Among the indoamine dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compound:

2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5- [bis (β-4' -hydroxyethyl) - amino] anilino-1 , 4-benzoquinone .

Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and especially henna- based poultices or extracts, may also be used.

The direct dye(s) preferably represent (s) from 0.001% to 20% by weight approximately, and even more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition.

When the composition according to the invention does not comprise any dye, but comprises one or more oxidizing agents, the said composition is then a keratin fibre bleaching composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "bleaching" means the total or partial destruction of the natural pigments present in keratin fibres (in particular eumelanins and phaeomelanins) .

The dyeing and/or bleaching composition may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams or gels, or in any other form that is suitable for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibres, and especially human keratin fibres such as the hair.

The present invention also relates to a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which consists in applying to the said fibres a dye composition as defined above comprising, as dye(s), one or more oxidation bases, optionally combined with one or more couplers and/or one or more direct dyes, in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents, for a time that is sufficient to develop the desired coloration.

After a leave-on time of from 5 minutes to 1 hour, and preferably from 10 minutes to 1 hour approximately, the keratin fibres are rinsed, washed with shampoo, rinsed again and then dried.

The oxidizing agent may be added to the dye composition just at the time of use, or it may be used starting with an oxidizing composition containing it, which is applied simultaneously with or sequentially to the dye composition.

According to one embodiment, the present invention also relates to a process for the optionally lightening direct dyeing of keratin fibres, and in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair, which consists in applying to the said fibres a dye composition as defined above comprising, as dye(s), one or more direct dyes optionally in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents, for a time that is sufficient to obtain the desired coloration and optionally the desired lightening.

A subject of the present invention is also a process for bleaching keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which consists in applying to the said fibres a composition comprising one or more alkanolamines, one or more amino acids and one or more polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents,- in leaving the composition to act for a leave-on time that is sufficient to obtain the desired bleaching; in removing the composition by rinsing with water, followed by washing with shampoo, and then optionally drying.

The leave-on time ranges between 5 minutes and 1 hour approximately, more preferentially between 10 minutes and 1 hour approximately.

Another subject of the invention is a multi -compartment device for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres. A first compartment contains a composition comprising one or more alkanolamines, one or more amino acids, one or more polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters, and optionally one or more oxidation bases and/or one or more couplers and/or one or more direct dyes, and a second compartment contains an oxidizing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

The examples that follow illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES

In the table below, AM means active material.

1 -Methyl -2 -hydroxy- 4 -amino-

1 .6 0 .2 1 .6 1 .6 benzene

5-Amino-δ-chloro-o-cresol / 0 .8 / /

Fragrance 0 95 0. 95 0 95 0 95

Nacre (mica/titanium oxide) 0 .2 0 .2 0 .2 0 .2

Deionized water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

The dye compositions A, B, C and D are mixed, at the time of use, in a plastic bowl for 2 minutes, with an aqueous oxidizing composition containing 6% aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution at pH 2.3, at a rate of 1 part by weight of dye composition per 1.5 parts by weight of oxidizing composition.

The mixtures thus obtained do not have any malodorous nature. They are applied for 30 minutes at room temperature to chestnut -brown hair.

A sufficient lightening effect and a strong, uniform coloration are obtained.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - one or more alkanolamines ,-

- one or more amino acids,- and

2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the alkanolamine (s) is (are) chosen from monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanol- amine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l- propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l , 3- propanediol, 3 -amino- 1 , 2 -propanediol , 3-dimethylamino- 1 , 2 -propanediol and tris (hydroxymethylamino) methane .

3. Composition according to Claim 2, in which the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amino acid(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds having the following formula:

R-CH—COOH (I)

N(H)_n p in which: p denotes 1 or 2 ;

R represents a hydrogen atom, an aliphatic group possibly comprising a heterocyclic portion, or an aromatic group,- when p = l, R may also form with the nitrogen atom of -N (H) _p a heterocycle.

5. Composition according to Claim 4, in which the amino acid(s) is (are) chosen from arginine, glycine, histidine and lysine.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkanolamines/amino acids mole ratio is greater than or equal to 0.1.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester (s) has (have) a number of moles of ethylene oxide of less than 25.

8. Composition according to Claim 7, in which the polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester (s) is (are) chosen from sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 20 EO, sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 4 EO, sorbitan monostearate oxyethylenated with 4 EO and sorbitan monooleate oxyethylenated with 5 EO.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional alkaline agents chosen from alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal silicates.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more oxidation bases and/or one or more couplers and/or one or more direct dyes.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

12. Process for dyeing keratin fibres, comprising the application to the said fibres of the composition as defined in Claim 10, optionally in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents, for a time that is sufficient to develop the desired coloration and optionally the desired lightening.

13. Process for bleaching keratin fibres, comprising the application to the said fibres of the composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 9 , in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents, for a time that is sufficient to obtain the desired bleaching.

14. MuIti -compartment device for dyeing keratin fibres, comprising a first compartment containing a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 9 comprising one or more oxidation bases and/or one or more couplers and/or one or more direct dyes, and a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

15. MuIti -compartment device for bleaching keratin fibres, comprising a first compartment containing a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 9 , and a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.