WO2010060896A1

WO2010060896A1 - Foaming emulsions comprising a combination of emulsifiers

Info

Publication number: WO2010060896A1
Application number: PCT/EP2009/065707
Authority: WO
Inventors: Frank Janssen; Stefanie Hentrey
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2008-11-27
Filing date: 2009-11-24
Publication date: 2010-06-03
Also published as: DE102008059445A1; EP2349181A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic care emulsions which can be made to foam using a manual pumping dispenser and contain a combination of emulsifiers composed of (a) at least one W/O emulsifier having an HLB value ranging from 4 to 6, and (b) at least one O/W emulsifier compound having an HLB value ranging from 10 to 14 in addition to at least one oil phase and at least one water phase. Said cosmetic care emulsions are characterized in that both the W/O emulsifier and the O/W emulsifier compound contain a poly(12-hydroxystearic acid)polyglycerol ester.

Description

Foaming emulsions with emulsifier combination

The invention relates to cosmetic foaming care emulsions, their use as skin care agents and the use of the care emulsion in a manually operable foam dispenser.

Foaming emulsions are known in the art in principle, but often have unfavorable properties such as poor spreadability or dull skin feel after use. Therefore, surfactant-containing emulsions have recently been developed which, thanks to a special pumping mechanism, are foamed with air and, as a foam, can be distributed more easily and more uniformly on the skin. However, as the foamable emulsions evolved, it was found that the foam was not strong enough and broke rapidly, leaving the skin with a watery and unpleasant feel after application.

In order to overcome these disadvantages, it has been proposed in EP 1 496 852 to foam polyolefin 12-hydroxy stearates as emulsifiers with surfactants, oil bodies, sunscreen filters and water to form a sunscreen emulsion contained in a manually operated pump dispenser.

Also, these systems, especially for the purpose of a cosmetic skincare emulsion, were unsatisfactory in foam quality and skincare properties because the resulting foam was not dense enough to have rapid drainage. By using a specific polymer combination, the foam stability of the foaming emulsions according to EP 1 496 852 was initially improved. Microscope images revealed that they were W / O / W emulsions in which all three different W / O / W micelle types were present, with W / O / W micelle type C dominating the system. However, the presence of the different micellar structures resulted in an extremely broad particle size distribution, as a result of which the foam was still not sufficiently dense and resulted after application in a strongly sticky and dull skin sensation.

In addition, the treatment of dry skin requires an increased use of nourishing oils (emollients). However, the incorporation of nourishing and rich emollients into the emulsions according to EP 1 496 852 led to a further destabilization of the foam. The object of the present invention was therefore to produce a cosmetic care emulsion, in particular an emulsion, which is foamable by means of a manually operable foam dispenser and forms a very dense, stable but light foam which can be distributed easily on the skin. Another requirement for the cosmetic care emulsion was to leave a moisturizing, nourishing, lubricating skin feel when spreading the foam and after absorption. Especially for dry and extremely dry skin, it was still important to add extra oils and rich emollients in the Incorporate care emulsions, without the emulsion or foam stability is affected.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that these properties can be achieved if a W / O emulsifier of a specific HLB value with an O / W emulsifier of a certain

HLB value in a care emulsion, which is made up in a manually operable foam dispenser combined.

The invention therefore cosmetic care emulsions according to claim 1.

Foaming emulsions according to the invention develop a particularly creamy, dense foam when foamed, which has a strongly retarded drainage. The foam has a light texture and can be spread very well on the skin. The creaminess of the foam eliminates the aforementioned disadvantages such as dullness and stickiness after absorption of the foam. Instead, the consumer already feels the improved during the distribution

Care that expresses itself after absorption of the foam in a moisture-saturated, smooth and smooth skin feeling.

According to the invention, the term "emulsion" on the one hand refers to a homogeneous emulsion in which the water phase and the oil phase are stably emulsified with one another over a very long period of time

"Emulsion" is prepared only immediately before foaming (that is, immediately before the operation of the foam dispenser) by the oil phase and the water phase, which are present separately from each other, are emulsified by vigorous shaking briefly into each other.

Both embodiments achieve the objectives of the invention.

A second object of the invention is a system consisting of an inventive

Care emulsion and a foam dispenser with a pump mechanism for foaming with

Air.

A third object of the invention is the use of an emulsifier combination

(a) at least one W / O emulsifier having an HLB value of 4 to 6 and

(b) at least one O / W emulsifier compound having an HLB value of 10 to 14 in cosmetic care emulsions, which is formulated in a manually applicable foam dispenser, characterized in that both the W / O and the O / W Emulsifier compound containing a poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerolester. A fourth subject of the invention is the use of a care emulsion according to the invention in a manually applicable foam dispenser for the care of keratin fibers, in particular of the skin. The choice of emulsifier was very careful, because it was necessary to eliminate the aforementioned problems and to improve known recipes. The emulsifiers should optimally also contribute to the nourishing properties of the emulsions without negative interactions with other constituents or skin intolerances. The emulsifiers according to the invention are basically known compounds which are available from Cognis commercially, for example under the names "Dehymuls® ^® PGPH", "Dehymuls® ^® SBL" or "Eumulgin ^® VL 75". The polyol component of these emulsifiers has at least two, preferably 3 to 12 and in particular 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are:

Glycerine and polyglycerol,

Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycols, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol,

Methyloyl compounds, such as trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane,

Pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol,

Alkylololigoglucosides having 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 16, more preferably 1 to 8 and in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside,

Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or

sucrose,

Amino sugars, such as glucamine.

Particularly preferred because of their excellent performance properties are reaction products based on polyglycerol and in particular the reaction products of poly-12-hydroxystearic acid with polyglycerols of the following homolog distribution:

Glycerol: 5 to 35, in particular 15 to 30 wt .-%,

Diglycerol: 15 to 40, in particular 20 to 32 wt .-%,

Triglycerol: 10 to 35, in particular 15 to 25 wt .-%,

Tetraglycerol: 5 to 20, in particular 8 to 15,% by weight,

Pentaglycerin: 2 to 10, especially 3 to 8 wt .-%,

Oligoglycerol: ad 100% by weight.

A according to the invention particularly preferred W / O emulsifier is a poly (12-hydroxysterinsäure) polyglycerol ester, which is sold by the company Cognis under the trade designation "Dehymuls ^® PGPH" as W / O emulsifier. Dehymuls® PGPH has according to the manufacturer a HLB value of about 5 on.

It is in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.075 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.1 to 12 wt .-% and in particular of 0.15 to 10 wt .-% used.

The second mandatory emulsifier is an O / W emulsifier compound having an HLB value of 10 to 14, which also contains the aforementioned poly (12-hydroxysteric acid) polyglycerol ester. According to the invention, this emulsifier is present as a compound of a poly (12-hydroxysteric acid) polyglycerol ester, which is in itself a W / O emulsifier, with such an amount of nonionic O / W surfactant and a polyol that the HLB value of the entire compound in a typical range for O / W emulsifiers range. The compound is in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on the total weight - in an amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular from 0.75 to 7 wt .-% used. Suitable nonionic O / W surfactants in the O / W emulsifier compound according to the invention are in particular alkylpolyglucosides of the general formula RO - (Z) _x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can only contain one particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds. | And C ₁₀ alkyl groups, mainly of C ₂ - - - d ₄ alkyl groups and consists essentially of C ₈ to C Particularly preferred alkyl polyglycosides in which R consists essentially of C ₈ ₆ alkyl groups or consisting essentially of Ci ₂ - to Ci ₆ alkyl groups or substantially from Ci ₆ to Ci ₈ alkyl groups.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.

A very particularly preferred O / W surfactant according to the invention is lauryl glucoside. Suitable polyols in the O / W emulsifier compound according to the invention are, in particular, polyols of aliphatic, saturated and unsaturated, branched and straight-chain C 1 -C 12 -alcohols having 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups in the molecule. Particularly suitable are glycerin, sorbitol, and propylene glycol - glycerol is particularly suitable. Such a compound with an HLB value of 12 is commercially available under the name "Eumulgin VL 75" from Cognis and is very particularly preferred according to the invention.

The combination of a W / O emulsifier and an O / W emulsifier can usually improve the stability of an emulsion, but these rules do not automatically apply to the care emulsions according to the invention which are in the form of W / O / W emulsions , In addition, in order to be foamable in a foam dispenser, the emulsions according to the invention also comprise surfactants, resulting in a completely new situation at the interfaces. Opposite the above-mentioned W / O / W emulsions based on Dehymuls ^® PGPH as the sole emulsifier and the W / O / W emulsions, which the above-mentioned polymer combination was added to the foam and emulsion stabilization, have W according to the invention / O / W Emulsions based on the specific emulsifier combination have the advantage that they develop a much denser foam with improved sensory properties, better dispersibility and improved skin care effects. The reason for these massive improvements lies in both the macroscopic and the microscopic properties of the care emulsion according to the invention. Macroscopically, the emulsion of the invention after foaming shows a significantly improved foam stability in comparison to the foams mentioned above, since the bubble size is significantly lower. The foam is thus denser and is also perceived as denser. Microscopically, it is clear that between the emulsions (Dehymuls ^® PGPH as the sole emulsifier or in combination with the polymers as compared to Dehymuls ^® PGPH with Eumulgin ^® VL 75) are massive differences. Although both emulsions still have a W / O / W structure, but in the care emulsion according to the invention, the type C emulsion has shifted from type C to type A. A broad particle size distribution becomes visible, with the small emulsion cells inserting into the voids of the large emulsion cells. As a result, a maximum space filling is achieved while maintaining the spherical individual shape, whereby the foam is denser, creamier and more stable.

To increase the foam formation and stabilization, the care emulsions according to the invention necessarily contain anionic as well as amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants. A careful selection also had to take place in the case of the surfactants, since on the one hand the surfactants should be particularly mild in order to ensure a skin-friendly treatment without the occurrence of skin irritation, and on the other hand the surfactants should have sufficient foaming sufficient to be used for the inventive application in a manual manner operable foam dispenser to be suitable.

Mild anionic and mild amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants which have been selected from one or more surfactants of group (iii) the acylamino acids, alpha-olefinsulfonates, ethoxylated alkylsulfuric acid esters, sulfosuccinic acid esters, ethercarboxylic acids and / or have been found to be suitable surfactants for satisfying the aforementioned requirements the salts of these compounds, as well as one or more surfactants of group (iv) of the alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates and / or imidazolinium betaines and / or the salts of these compounds.

The anionic surfactants (iii) which are suitable according to the invention are compounds which are among the sodium, potassium and ammonium mono- and mono-, di- and trialkanol ammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, the

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH2 "CH2θ) _χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acylglutamates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear α-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

- Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12 selected.

Particularly suitable anionic surfactants (iii) in the care emulsions according to the invention are, because of their excellent mildness and foamability, the sulfosuccinic acid monoester salts of fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers of the general formula

R ₁ O (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -CO-CH ₂ -CH (SO ₃ ^" ) -COO ^" M ₂ ⁺ , in which R _{1 is} an alkyl group having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, n is an average value of 0- 6 and M is an alkali cation, preferably sodium. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid monoester salts of the formula

RI-O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -CO-CH ₂ -CH (SO ₃ Na) -COONa wherein R 1 has an alkyl group of 12 to 16 carbon atoms and n has a mean of 1-6. Such products with n = 3 are available under the trade name Texapon.RTM ^® SB 30 by Cognis commercially. The anionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the care emulsions of the invention

- Based on their total weight - preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 15 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-%. Zwitterionic surfactants which are suitable according to the invention are the so-called betaines such as the alkylbetaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacyl- aminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant according to the invention is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Examples of ampholytic surfactants suitable according to the invention are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. According to the invention preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ - C ₁₈ - sarcosine.

Particularly suitable amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants (iv) in the care emulsions according to the invention are due to their excellent mildness and foamability ampho- and Betaine surfactants having an alkyl or acyl group having 8 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular betaine surfactants of the formula

R2CONH (CH ₂₎ _m -N ⁺ (CH ₃₎ ₂ -COO ^", a group derived from caprylic acid and capric acid group in the R 2 CO and m = 3. Such surfactant is known to be particularly irritating to skin and mucous-friendly and low-betaine, and commercially available under the name Tego Betain 810 from Goldschmidt.

The amphoteric (s) and / or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0, 2 to 15 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-% used.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, in addition to the abovementioned compulsory components, the care emulsions are further added with substances for increasing the emulsion and foam stability. It has been found that particularly good foam stabilization can be achieved if a combination of different polymers was used suitable for the care emulsions according to the invention, the combination of at least two polymers has proven, one of which is natural and the other of synthetic origin.

Polymers of natural origin which are suitable according to the invention are based on xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates and / or carrageenates. As particularly preferred polymers have been found that can be prepared from alginates, wherein in particular esterified alginates are suitable according to the invention. In addition to the foam and emulsion stabilizing effect, these compounds have the advantage that they can help reduce the loss of water in the skin, thereby additionally supporting the moisturizing effect of the care emulsions of the invention. Particularly suitable AIg inatester are prepared from alginates which are esterified with one or more Ci-C ₆ -alcohols which can carry one or more hydroxy groups.

Particularly suitable are propylene glycol alginates, which are formed by the reaction of an alginate with propylene oxide at high temperatures. Such esterified alginates are available, for example from FMC Biopolymers under the name "Protanal ester" in the trade. Protanal ester ^® CF is particularly preferred for the inventive care emulsion, because it has a low viscosity in aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic solutions, which The polymers of natural origin are in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on the total weight - in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and Particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers here are crosslinked polyacrylic acids which are partially or completely neutralized For example, the commercial products of the Carbopol series, such as Carbopol 934, 940, 941, Carbopol

Ultrez 10, Carbopol ^® ETD 2001 and 2050 and the products Teqo Carbomer 140 and 141 and

Synthalen® ^® L.

The polyacrylic acids are in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on the

Total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably of

0.02 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably used in an amount of 0.03 to 1 wt .-%.

Other inventively preferred synthetic polymers are Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, such as the crosslinked Acryloyldimethyltaurat-acrylamide copolymers with the

Trade names Sepigel ^® 305 or Simulgel® ^® 600 Seppic, the homopolymers of 2-

Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (Acryloyldimethyltaurin), which may be optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin ^®

AMPS or sold by the company Seppic under the trade name Simulgel ^® 800, and

Copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as those available under the trade name Sepinov ^® EMT 10 or Simulgel ^® NS by the company

Seppic distributed commercial products.

The polyacryloyldimethyltaurates are in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.02 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 1

% By weight used.

As particularly suitable for the preparation of the care emulsions according to the invention, the

Combination of a polyacrylic acid with a Polyacryloyldimethyltaurat proven, with the best

Foam and emulsion stabilization by the combination of the two polymers Tego

Carbomer ^® 140 and Sepinov ^® EMT 10 could be achieved.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention is suitable as

Polymer combination for optimum foam and emulsion stabilization, in particular the

Combination of an alginate ester with a polyacrylic acid and a Polyacryloyldimethyltaurat, and in particular the combination of the commercial products Protanal Ester ^® CF, Tego Carbomer ^®

140 and Sepinov ^® EMT 10th

Also essential for the preparation of the care emulsions according to the invention

Oil component must have skin-care properties, with the aforementioned, mandatory

Components are easy to emulsify and not adversely affect the emulsion stability. Of

Furthermore, the oil component must not adversely affect the foam development and the sensor technology of the foam. Under these conditions are the following natural and synthetic

Oil components and / or fatty substances suitable according to the invention:

Natural (vegetable) oils: these are usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides. Preferred natural oils according to the invention are coconut oil, (sweet)

Almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil (Tea Tree OiI), Soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil,

Mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil,

Amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil,

Hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.

As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. An invention usable

Hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S).

As synthetic oils are also silicone compounds such as cyclomethicones, dimethicones and

Amodimethicone into consideration.

As the oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.

Dialkyl ethers which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-alkyl ether. n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and Di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the

Name Cetiol ^® OE is available.

Fatty acids which are suitable according to the invention are fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes which are stable both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous

Dispersion may be present.

The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids with 10-22

Carbon atoms. These include, for example, the isostearic acids, such as

Commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and as the isopalmitic

Commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other under the trade names Edenor ^®

(Cognis) distributed fatty acids. Other typical examples of such fatty acids are

Caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid,

Petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid,

Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, e.g. in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's

Oxosynthesis or dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Applicable within the meaning of the invention for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucalcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and their guerbet alcohols, wherein this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, lsofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau. Other fatty substances are, for example

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical Methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ^®, ^® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ^® HE or Cutina ^® MD, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids as well as liquid mono-, di- and / or triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, for example the Myritol ^® 318 or Estasan ^® MCT OiI known under the trade names Capryli c / Capric triglycerides and

Esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ koholen Al, such as that sold under the trade name Finsolv TN ^® C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ - alkyl benzoate.

In addition to or instead of the abovementioned oil and fatty substance components, it has proven advantageous for improving the sensory and skin-care properties if the care emulsions according to the invention contain a combination of at least two of the abovementioned emollients (oil and fatty substances) with different spreading values. It has thus been found that a long-lasting, smooth skin feel after application of the care emulsion according to the invention can be achieved, in particular, if it contains as oil body or emollient a combination of slow, medium and fast-spreading oil components.

An especially preferred emollient combination of at least three zusammengestzt emollients the group which is formed from di (C ₆ -C ₁₈₎ alkyl ethers, di (C ₆ -C ₁₈₎ - alkyl carbonates, mono-, di- or tri Esters of saturated and unsaturated, substituted and unsubstituted C ₆ -C ₂₄ -fatty acids with saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted mono-, di- or polyalcohols of a C chain length of C ₆ -C ₂₄ atoms, and from esters of saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted mono-, di- or polyalcohols of a C chain length of C ₆ -C ₂₄ atoms with aromatic carboxylic acids. According to the invention particularly suitable is a combination of dicaprylyl ether (for example Cetiol ^® OE), Ethylhexyl Palmitate (eg Cegesoft ^® C24) and _{_C12-C15} alkyl benzoate (such as Finsolv ^® TN), whereby it is advantageous for further enhancement of action of the emulsions of the invention when additionally Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (Myritol ^® 318 or Estasan ^® MCT Oil) and oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600) included. As a result, a particularly harmonic spreading cascade is formed, as a result of which the emulsion foam according to the invention becomes particularly soft, nourishing and sliding. In order to achieve a particularly rich sensor technology of the care foam and for care emulsions according to the invention, which are particularly suitable for the treatment of dry skin, it has proved to be preferred that the emulsions in addition to the aforementioned emollients further contain at least one component having a melting point in the range of 25 up to 35 ° C. Such an emollient melts when distributing the product by the body temperature and gives a particularly rich feeling. Surprisingly, the foam quality of the care emulsion according to the invention does not suffer from the incorporation of this additional emollient. Although it gets a little less dense, it becomes creamier, which clearly shows the very nourishing, melting properties of the care emulsion.

An inventively particularly preferred emollient having a melting range of 25 to 35 ° C is the myristyl myristate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Cetiol ^® MM from Cognis.

The total amount of the aforementioned oil and fat components in the care emulsions according to the invention is 1 to 25% by weight, preferably 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight and in particular 6, based on the total weight of the care emulsions to 10% by weight. If, in addition to the abovementioned oil and fat components, the care emulsions according to the invention are to contain further hydrophobic active ingredients, in particular light protection filters, it is particularly preferred that the total amount of the emulsified oil phase, including the abovementioned oil and fat components and further hydrophobic active ingredients in the care emulsions according to the invention, based on the total weight of the care emulsions - 1 - 25 wt .-%, preferably 3 to 20 wt .-%, more preferably 5 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 6 to 10 wt .-% is. Particularly preferred care emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the abovementioned oil and fat components in a total amount of preferably 3 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 6 to 10 wt .-%, and other hydrophobic Active ingredients, such as in particular light protection filters, in a total amount of 0.5 to 22 wt .-%, preferably 1-15 wt .-%, more preferably 3-12 wt .-%, and most preferably 5-10 wt .-% contain are, in each case based on the total weight of the care emulsion. The weight of the obligatory emulsifiers (i) and (ii) is not included in the oil phase. The amount of water phase in the emulsions according to the invention is preferably> 35% by weight, more preferably> 45% by weight, more preferably> 55% by weight and especially preferably> 65% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of Emulsion. In order to compensate for the slight foam-reducing effect of the additional emollient having a melting point in the range from 25 to 35 ° C., it is advantageous according to the invention if the care emulsions contain an additional polymer component, which is a sodium polyacrylate. This polymer has a high flexibility with respect to the oil phase and results in a lighter foam. By introducing the polymer, the foam viscosity of the care foam is also improved and it becomes white, creamy and fine-pored. Such, according to the invention suitable polymer is commercially available under the name Cosmedia® ^® SP from Cognis. It is in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on the total weight - in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.01 to 3 wt .-% and in particular from 0 , 05 to 1 wt .-% used.

In addition to the above-mentioned compulsory components and optional components which belong to particularly preferred embodiments of the care emulsions according to the invention, the care emulsions to further increase the skin care and protective effect contain at least one or more auxiliaries and active ingredients which are selected from the group of UV Anti-light filters, antioxidants, humectants, hyaluronic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts and derivatives, agents for stimulating collagen synthesis, agents for increasing or improving the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and agents for promoting elastin production.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which stimulates collagen synthesis and is selected from

Retinoids, especially retinol and C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol,

Kombucha,

Olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),

oleanolic acid,

Oleanol,

Green tea extracts (Camellia sinensis),

Creatine, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, the retinoids are retinol (vitamin A ₁ ), the C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol (= retinyl ester, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate), 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), retinal and its Isomers, a-frans-retinoic acid, 9-c / s-retinoic acid and 13-c / s-retinoic acid (tretinoin), which are esters of retinoic acid as well as other related substances (synthetic retinoids) counted for their diverse biological activity in particular on Growth and differentiation are known, as well as substances that have a specific biological effect by binding to the retinoid receptors RAR (retinoid acid receptor) and RXR (retinoid X receptor) and cause their activation. Synthetic retinoids are classified into three groups: non-aromatic (eg, isotretinoin), monoaromatic (eg, acitretin), and polyaromatic (so-called arotinoids, eg, tazarotene, which have a specific effect on single retinoid receptors). Particularly preferred retinoids according to the invention are retinol and the C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from Kombucha.

Kombucha is an originating from East Asia, about 0.5% by volume of alcohol containing, pleasantly sour, slightly sweet, sparkling fermentation beverage based on mono- or disaccharide-containing tea (black tea, green tea, herbal tea or fruit tea), which is produced without the addition of preservatives, colorings and flavorings. The "Kombucha tea fungus" is in fact not a fungus, but a symbiosis of acetic acid bacteria (usually Acetobacter xylinum, but also Acetobacter gluconicum) with various yeasts (Saccharomyces sp., Torula sp., Pichia fermentans); Optionally, lactic acid bacteria may be present. For reasons of production safety and production stability, industrially manufactured kombucha is often heat treated.

According to the invention, "tea" is understood to mean aqueous infusions of leaves, buds and delicate stems of Thea sinensis and Thea assamica, but also of various other plants, for example mint, linden, mallow, red bush, chamomile etc. Preferred Kombucha is obtained from mono- or disaccharide-containing tea of fermented (black tea, oolong tea, yellow tea, pu-erh tea) or unfermented (green tea) leaves of thea sinensis (camellia sinensis) or thea assamica by fermentation of (usually with sucrose) sugared tea with the symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum A particularly preferred Kombucha product according to the invention is a product obtained by fermentation of sucrose-sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum and for example under the INCI name "Sacchar omyces / Xylinu m / Black Tea ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose "with the trade name" Kombuchka "as glycerol-containing thickened preparation from the company Sederma.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience. Another invention particularly preferred Olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Olive leaf extracts may have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol. Further inventively preferred active ingredients that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oleanolic acid and oleanol.

Further inventively preferred active ingredients that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from green tea extracts (Camellia Sinensis). A particularly preferred green tea extract according to the invention is liposome-encapsulated green tea extract, for example available under the trade name Greenselect Phytosome from Indena.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oligopeptides and creatine and also from mixtures of all the abovementioned active ingredients. The active ingredient (s) which stimulate collagen synthesis are used in the care emulsions according to the invention, based on their total weight, in an amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-2 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.5 wt .-%, used.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one further active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and which is selected from

Apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),

Lotus Seed Extracts (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract),

Corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract),

Red wine extracts,

Grape Seed Extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), which are preferred from the

Chardonnay grapes come from

Extracts of Black Elderflower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract),

Mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita),

Hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric esters and their salts,

Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts,

Dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin), as well as mixtures thereof.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Particularly preferred apple seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Ederline from Seporga. The product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), and in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Care emulsions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the raw material Ederline in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight and more preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total Composition, included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one apple seed extract in amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1% by weight. %, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from lotus germ extracts. A particularly preferred lotus germ extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from Maruzen.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract). An extract of corn kernels which is particularly preferred according to the invention is obtainable under the trade name Deliner from Coletica. Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from red wine extracts (wine extract). A particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic. Further active compounds which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly preferred grape seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra flower extract). An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is available under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.

Further agents preferred according to the invention which increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita). According to the invention particularly preferred mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of the peppermint (Mentha piperita) - wherein aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these extract mixtures are particularly preferred - are available under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange from Solabia.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol) and / or resveratrol. mono-, di- and -triphosphorsäureestern and their salts. An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorsäureester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.

Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts. According to the invention, the isoflavones include the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides.

According to the invention, isoflavones are to be understood as substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, it being possible for hydrogenation to be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation to form a carbohydrate. nylgruppe in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from soybean, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Lipobelle Soyaglycone (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in total amounts of from 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

Another preferred agent of the present invention which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts is dihydroquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), also referred to as taxifolin. Care emulsions particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001-5 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.5 or 1 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

A suitable active ingredient for promoting elastin production according to the invention is a dill extract (Peucedanum Graveolens Extract), for example a product available under the trade name AHYA 050 A (mixture of water, butylene glycol, dill extract and xanthan gum). Dill extract is used in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.0001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 1, 5 wt .-%.

Further preferred active substances which can be added to the care emulsions according to the invention in addition to the obligatory active ingredients according to claim and which positively influence the skin condition are selected from the group which is formed from:

DNA or RNA oligonucleotides,

Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups B, E, H and K and the esters of the abovementioned substances, α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters,

Lactone and / or salt form,

Flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts,

Ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives,

silymarin,

Ectoine, inorganic and organic UV filter substances, self-tanning, skin-soothing and sebum-regulating agents and

Mixtures of these agents. Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from DNA oligonucleotides and RNA oligonucleotides. According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine-5 'triphosphate). An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide. In the particularly preferred care emulsions according to the invention, the DNA oligonucleotides or RNA oligonucleotides are present in amounts of 0.00001-5% by weight, preferably 0.0001-1.0% by weight and more preferably 0.0005-0 , 5 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups B, E, H and K and the Esters of the aforementioned substances.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others - Vitamin B _1, thiamine trivial name, chemical designation 3 - [(4 ^{^'-amino-2'} -methyl-5 ^{'-pyrimidinyl)} - methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition. - Vitamin B ₂ , common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) - benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3 / - /, 10 / - /) - dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition. - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotine acid amide (niacinamide) out. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

- Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. According to the invention applicable derivatives of panthenol are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I).

Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched one C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The inventively extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), wherein in formula (VIT-I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ² represents a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group, and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood here not to be a uniform substance but the derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ol known by the trivial names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal. Vitamin B ₆ is contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%. Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also referred to as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6af?) - 2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

Folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate. Folate is the collective term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of substances containing a pteridine ring linked to 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic acid. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition. -Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1, 2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition. Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above). The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group that underlie the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ). , Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone and / or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid. decanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gularic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, Glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. A particularly preferred α-ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Further derivatives of the abovementioned acids are their physiologically tolerated salts, preferably the zinc, copper and manganese salts, the salts of the alkali and alkaline earth metals and the ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, particularly preferably the sodium, potassium and potassium salts. , Magnesium and calcium salts. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids or β-hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives are preferably present in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-5% by weight and most preferably 1-2% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition included.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.

The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols) and the aurones. The flavanones and isoflavones according to the invention are expressly excluded from the flavonoids. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3 -rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L -mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L - mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the flavonoid-active substance the entire cosmetic composition. Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

(UBL-I) with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n = 10, known as coenzyme Q10. According to the invention, the ubiquinones, ubiquinols or derivatives thereof in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, used.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.

According to the invention silymarin is used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain ectoine in addition to the compelling active ingredient combination according to claim 1. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferably present in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance in addition to the obligatory active ingredient combination according to claim 1. The UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or unsymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomers and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadiene carboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, benzalmalonic acid esters, benzoxazole and any desired mixtures of the stated components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of from 10 nm to 300 nm. According to the invention Particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphe- nyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4 ' -isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 3- (4 ^'- methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid-2- octyl ester, ethyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl A-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate , 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoesäurhexylester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester, polymers gebu ndene UV filters, z. B. the 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) - methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer having the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS No. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX) , Triazine derivatives, such as. For example, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA), Dioctylbutylamido- triazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'- ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazin-2 -yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) -imino ] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5- triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- len (6- (2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS). No .: 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-oc tylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI -Description Dromizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-Bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI : bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine, available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1) methyl-pyrrole l-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4- Bis- [[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4- methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and mixtures of the said components. Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), for example under the trade name Eusolex 232 at Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro at Symrise and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898 -37- 7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as z. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS. 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B - Make filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and SSδ-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. According to the invention, the organic UV filter substances are preferably in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, more preferably 0.5-20% by weight, most preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 3.0 - 10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition. In accordance with the invention, the inorganic UV filters are preferably used in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, more preferably 0.5-10% by weight, even more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 2.0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1. Self-tanning active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline. According to the invention, the self-tanning active ingredients are present in a total amount of 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and most preferably 2.0-4. 0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one skin-soothing active ingredient in addition to the compelling active ingredient combination according to claim 1. Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. Sold under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel OiI", such as they are available, for example, under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS from the company Pentapharm, extracts from vanilla tahtensis, such as those obtainable, for example, under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) from Solabia , Alginhydrolysaten, as they are available, for example, under the trade name Phycosaccharide, in particular Phycosaccharide AI, from Codif, extracts from Bacopa Monniera, as they are available, for example, under the trade name Bacocalmine from Sederma, extracts from the Rooibos plant, as available, for example, under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE from the company Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the trade Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), available from the company Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as z. B. under the trade name phytocohesins (INCI: Sodium Beta-sitosteryl) are available from the company Vincience, aminodicarboxylic acids having a carbon chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, preferably selected from aminomalonic, aminosuccinic (= aspartic acid), amino glutaric acid and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, extracts of the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (zucchini), extracts of Mentha piperita, in particular of the leaves of Mentha piperita, N-acylated alkanolamines, especially N-palmitoylethanolamine, Hydrolysates and / or extracts from the Alga Enteromorpha compressa (Darmtang, a green alga), in particular from the vegetation body ( ^" phallus ^" ) of the alga, commercially available, for example, under the trade name Enteline 2, furthermore selected from the dipeptide Tyr-Arg, its esters and its N-acyl Derivatives, in particular N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg Calmosensine of Sederma, as well as any mixtures of these substances.

Extracts of the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (courgettes) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are described, for example, in the commercial products Curbilene (ex lndena SpA, INCI: Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), Ocaline (ex Soliance, INCI: Sea Water (and) Water (and ) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), ARP 100 (ex Greentech, INCI: Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), Cucurbitine (ex Christian Dior Perfumes, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract) Herbal Extract Pumpkin (ex Cosmetochem, INCI: Water (and) Propylene glycol (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract) and Pumpkin Extract (ex Draco Natural Products, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract).

Mentha piperita extracts which are particularly preferred according to the invention, in particular from the leaves of Mentha piperita, are described, for example, in the commercial products Calmiskin OP (ex Silab, INCI: Water (and) Mentha piperita (Peppermint Leaf Extract) and Caomint (ex Solabia, INCI: Propylene Glycol, Water, Mentha piperita (Peppermint) leaf extract, Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) extract).

The skin-soothing active ingredients are preferably present in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one sebum-regulating active substance. Sebum-regulating active substances which are preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol which are used as the triple combination according to the invention in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product Azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) from Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg. As in the product Seboregul the company Silab are included, further water and oil soluble extracts of Hamamelis, burdock and nettles, Zimtbaumextract (z. B. Sepicontrol ^® A5 by the company SEPPIC), chrysanthemum extract (z. B. Laricyl ^® from Laboratoires Serobiologiques) and the active compound mixtures Asebiol ^® BT 2 (Laboratoires Serobiologiques, INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and antiobesity factor ^® CC ¹ S- 218/2-A (Cosmetochem, INCI : Aqua, Cetyl PCA, PEG-8 Isolauryl Thioether, PCA, Cetyl Alcohol). The sebum-regulating active ingredients are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one polysaccharide, which in a preferred embodiment is selected from glycosaminoglycans, more preferably from hvaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin. 6-sulphate and most preferably from hyaluronic acid. The polysaccharide is the care emulsions according to the invention - based on the Gesmtgewicht - in an amount of 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 1 wt. % added.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the care emulsions contain in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1 at least one humectant or a penetration aid. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, sorbitol, lactic acid, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, Carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3rd Propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol. Particularly preferred are glycerol and sorbitol.

The humectants or penetration aids are the care emulsions according to the invention - based on the total weight - in an amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.25 to 10 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 5 wt. -% added. The care emulsions according to the invention have a pH in the skin-friendly range of from 3.5 to 7.5, preferably from 4 to 7 and in particular from 4.5 to 6.5. In addition, the emulsions according to the invention may optionally contain the further auxiliaries, additives and active ingredients:

- Deodorizing agents counteract, cover or eliminate body odors. Body odors are caused by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, forming unpleasant-smelling degradation products. Accordingly, suitable as deodorizing agents u.a. germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or I odor maskers.

Insect repellents: Examples of insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) -propionic acid ethyl ester), which is designated Insect Repellent 3535 sold by Merck KGaA, as well as Butylacetylaminopropionate in question. - Self-tanner: Suitable self-tanner is dihydroxyacetone. As tyrosine inhibitors that prevent the formation of melanin and find application in depigmenting, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid come into question.

Preservatives: Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver complexes known under the name SurfacineG and the further classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.

- Perfume oils: Perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, resins and balsams. Furthermore, animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum and synthetic fragrance compounds of the ester type, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons come into question.

- Dyes: Dyes which may be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Cochenillerot A (Cl.16255), Patent Blue V

(C.1.42051), indigotin (C.1.73015), chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), quinoline yellow (C.1.47005), titanium dioxide (C.1.77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.1.69800) and krapplack (C. 1.58000). These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture.

The care emulsions according to the invention are particularly suitable for application in a manually operable system with a pumping mechanism. It is particularly preferred if the care emulsion according to the invention is contained in a foam dispenser with a pump mechanism for foaming with air. Such a foam dispenser makes it possible to dispense with propellant gases. Also particularly advantageous in this type of dispensers is that the application is particularly simple, the resulting foam has a light and creamy texture, no drainage and a simple distribution availability, whereby all the above-mentioned positive effects on the skin can be achieved. Foam dispensers which are particularly suitable according to the invention are described in detail in the applications WO 2003/088941 and WO 2004/078902. These applications are therefore expressly incorporated by reference to the description of the pump dispenser. These foam dispensers which are particularly suitable for the care emulsions according to the invention are commercially available under the names M3 and F3 from Airspray.

To be foamable using a manual pump dispenser, preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized by a viscosity at 21 ⁰ C in the range from 50 to 1500 mPas, preferably 100-1000 mPas, especially preferably 400 to 850 mPas, exceptionally preferably 500 to 750 mPas, measured with a Brookfield rotary viscometer, spindle No. 1 at a rotational speed of 20 rpm or with a spindle TA at a rotational speed of 12 rpm. Examples:

The following examples are intended to further describe the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto. The amounts are based on - unless otherwise stated - wt .-%.

1) Foamable sunscreen emulsion

The fat and the water phase are heated to about 80 ⁰ C. Subsequently, the water phase is emulsified using a Dissolverscheibe with the submitted fat phase. The stirrer rotation frequency is continuously increased during the phase combination from 250 to 1400 rpm. At a temperature of 60 ⁰ C or 40 ⁰ C, the polymers (carbomer and alginate ester) are added in the form of a swelling in water. After the emulsion is cooled with stirring to about 30 ⁰ C, the fragrances, agents and preservatives are incorporated. Following is first one third of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture added. With complete mixing, the viscosity of the emulsion decreases sharply and the rotational frequency of the stirring element is controlled down to 300 rpm. Immediately thereafter, the remaining two-thirds of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture are incorporated and the rotational frequency is reduced to below 300 rpm. The pH is adjusted to 5.1.

2) Foaming emulsion with light emollients for a creamy care foam

The Sepinov EMT 10 is put into the fat phase. The fat and the water phase are heated to about 80 ⁰ C. Subsequently, the water phase is emulsified using a Dissolverscheibe with the submitted fat phase. The stirrer rotation frequency is continuously increased during the phase combination from 250 to 1400 rpm. At a temperature of 60 ⁰ C or 40 ⁰ C, the polymers (carbomer and alginate esters) in the form of a swelling in Added water. After the emulsion is cooled with stirring to about 30 ⁰ C, the fragrances, agents and preservatives are incorporated. Subsequently, first one third of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture is added. With complete mixing, the viscosity of the emulsion decreases sharply and the rotational frequency of the stirring element is controlled down to 300 rpm. Immediately thereafter, the remaining two-thirds of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture are incorporated and the rotational frequency is reduced to below 300 rpm. The pH is adjusted to 5.1.

3) Foaming emulsion with rich emollients for a white creamy foam especially for the treatment of dry skin

The Sepinov EMT 10 is put into the fat phase. The fat and the water phase are heated to about 80 ⁰ C. Subsequently, the water phase is emulsified using a Dissolverscheibe with the submitted fat phase. The stirrer rotation frequency is continuously increased during the phase combination from 250 to 1400 rpm. At a temperature of 60 ⁰ C or 40 ⁰ C, the polymers (carbomer and alginate ester) are added in the form of a swelling in water. After the emulsion is cooled with stirring to about 30 ⁰ C, the fragrances, agents and preservatives are incorporated. Subsequently, first one third of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture is added. With complete mixing, the viscosity of the emulsion decreases sharply and the rotational frequency of the stirring element is controlled down to 300 rpm. Immediately thereafter, the remaining two-thirds of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture are incorporated and the rotational frequency is reduced to below 300 rpm. The pH is adjusted to 5.1.

All three emulsions are packaged in a Foamer of model F3 or M3 from Airspray. The respective care foams can be removed in this way easily and in the correct dosage for the application. Their sensors are unique - creamy, soft and "emulsion-like".

The foams are still very dense. They are easy to spread on the skin and do not break. During the distribution, they glide over the skin leaving a smooth, nourishing skin feeling after absorption.

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic care emulsion, which is foamable using a manual pump dispenser, comprising in addition to at least one oil phase and at least one water phase, an emulsifier combination

(a) at least one W / O emulsifier having an HLB value of 4 to 6 and

(B) at least one O / W emulsifier compound having an HLB value in the range of 10 to 14, characterized in that both the W / O and the O / W emulsifier Compound a poly (12-hydroxystearic acid ) polyglycerol esters.

A cosmetic care emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the O / W emulsifier (b) is a compound of a poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerol ester, a nonionic surfactant and a polyol.

3. Cosmetic care emulsion according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the emulsifier (b) contains a poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerolester, an alkylpolyglucoside and glycerol.

4. Care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it further contains a surfactant combination of mild anionic and mild amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants.

5. Care emulsion according to claim 4, characterized in that the surfactants are selected from one or more surfactants of the group of acylamino acids, alpha-olefinsulfonates, ethoxylated Alkylschwefelsäurestern, Sulfobernsteinsäureestern, ether carboxylic acids and / or the salts of these compounds, and from one or more surfactants of Group of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, sulfobetaines and / or imidazolinium betaines and / or the salts of these compounds.

6. Care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains to increase the emulsion and foam stability, a combination of at least two polymers, one of which is natural and the other of synthetic origin.

7. Care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it additionally contains a combination of at least three emollients with different Spreitwerten.

8. care emulsion according to claim 7, characterized in that the emollients are selected from di (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl ethers, di (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl, mono-, di- or tri-esters saturated and unsaturated, substituted and unsubstituted C ₆ -C ₂₄ -fatty acids with saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted mono-, di- or polyhydric alcohols of a C chain length of C ₆ -C ₂₄ -atoms, as well as from esters of saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted mono-, di- or polyalcohols of a C chain length of C ₆ -C ₂₄ atoms with aromatic carboxylic acids.

9. care emulsion according to any one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that it contains as an additional emollient at least one component which has a melting point in the range of 25 to 35 ° C.

10. care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further contains at least one cosmetic auxiliary or active ingredient which is selected from the group of sunscreens, humectants, antioxidants, hyaluronic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts and derivatives, active ingredients Stimulation of collagen synthesis, drugs to increase or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and drugs to promote elastin production.

11. Care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it has a pH in the range of 3.5 to 7.5, preferably from 4 to 7 and in particular from 4.5 to 6.5.

12. System of a care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 11 and a foam dispenser with a pump mechanism for foaming with air.

13. Use of an emulsifier combination

(a) at least one W / O emulsifier having an HLB value of 4 to 6 and

(B) at least one O / W emulsifier compound having an HLB value of 10 to 14, in cosmetic care emulsions, which are formulated in a manually applicable foam dispenser, characterized in that both the W / O and the O / W - Emulsifier compound containing a poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerolester.

14. Use of a care emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 in a manually applicable foam dispenser for the care of keratin fibers, in particular the skin.