WO2010076483A1

WO2010076483A1 - Cosmetic composition containing a polyester, an organic oil and water

Info

Publication number: WO2010076483A1
Application number: PCT/FR2009/052542
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ludivine Laurent; Christine Annotel
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2008-12-16
Filing date: 2009-12-15
Publication date: 2010-07-08

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition that contains, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more liquid polyesters obtained by the condensation of a dimer and/or trimer of an unsaturated fatty acid and a saturated linear diol, one or more organic oils, and water in a concentration of higher than 30 wt % relative to the total weight of the composition, as well as to a cosmetic treatment method implementing same.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a polyester, an organic oil and water

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol, one or more organic oils, and water with a particular content, and a process for treating keratin materials, in particular keratinous fibers.

Many hair care products have been described in the prior art. The corresponding compositions are intended to bring good cosmetic properties to the hair.

However, it appears very difficult to formulate hair products to bring a good level of shine to the hair without causing a greasy or tacky effect very anticosmetic.

Document EP 1 857 098 also discloses a cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of keratin materials comprising an ester of polyol (s) and dimer of diacid of fatty acid and a particular polyamide.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the combination of one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and saturated linear diol, of one or more organic oils, and of water at a content greater than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition made it possible to avoid the problems encountered in the prior art and to obtain a hair care composition which makes it possible to bring a good level of gloss to the skin. hair while limiting the fat effect.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of saturated linear diol, one or more organic oils, and water with a content greater than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Liquid polyester means a polyester whose viscosity is less than 40000 Cst, preferably less than 20000 Cst at 40 ⁰ C, determined according to ASTM D445-88.

By "unsaturated fatty acid" is meant, in the context of the present invention, a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The unsaturated fatty acid dimers may in particular comprise from 2 to 4 unsaturations in their carbon chain. The unsaturated fatty acid trimers can comprise from 3 to 6 unsaturations in their carbon chain. Preferably, the dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acid are polycarboxylic acids comprising at least 2 and up to 6 carboxylic acid functions per molecule. In a preferred embodiment, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer may comprise from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and preferably 2 carboxylic acid functions. The unsaturated fatty acid trimer can comprise from 42 to 66 carbon atoms and preferably 3 carboxylic acid functions. Preferably, an unsaturated fatty acid dimer is used, in particular having 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions.

Mixtures of dimers and trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and / or unsaturated fatty acids (unpolymerized, therefore corresponding to the monomers) may also be used within the scope of the invention. In the case of such a mixture, a mixture comprising more than 50% by weight of dimers, for example a mixture comprising more than 90% by weight, preferably more than 95%, of acids in the form of dimers, is preferred. the remainder of the mixture may be trimers and / or unsaturated fatty acid monomers.

The dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid may optionally be hydrogenated after the polymerization reaction of the unsaturated fatty acid, in particular to improve the stability of the dimer or trimer product.

Hydrogenated fatty acid dimers (oleic or linoleic acid) are especially marketed under the brand names EMPOL 1008, EMPOL 1004, EMPOL 1025, EMPOL 1061 and EMPOL 1062 by Cognis and Pripol 1006 (dilinoleic acid) by Uniqema, International. Uniqema also markets a hydrogenated fatty acid dimer under the name Pripol 1013 (hydrogenated dilinoleic acid).

In a particularly preferred manner, the dimer of unsaturated fatty acid is a dimer of linoleic acid, also called dilinoleic acid, obtained by intermolecular polymerization of linoleic acid. The unsaturated fatty acid may be of natural origin, preferably vegetable. A fatty acid of plant origin can come from any plant source producing said fatty acid. For example, in the case of linoleic acid, molecules extracted from soybean, rapeseed, etc. may be used. The polyester or polyesters present in the composition according to the invention are thus obtained by condensation of a long chain fatty acid polymerized with a saturated linear diol. In the context of the present invention, the term "diol" denotes a hydrocarbon compound C 2 -C 10, preferably C 2 -C 8, and preferably C 2 -C 6, the carbon chain is substituted by two hydroxyl functions. The hydrocarbon chain can be interrupted by an oxygen atom. The diols used according to the invention are linear saturated alcohols. In a particularly preferred manner, the saturated linear diol is a butanediol, in particular 1,2-butanedio-1, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol.

Thus, preferably, the polyester present in the composition according to the invention is obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and a butanediol. Advantageously, the polyester or polyesters used in the composition according to the invention have an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000, preferably between 1000 and 2000, and preferably between 1200 and 1800. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and saturated linear diol is a polymer, or polyester, of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. , preferably having an average molecular weight of 1300, a viscosity at 40 ^° C. of 2500-3500 cSt and a refractive index at 25 ° C. of 1.475-1.485. In particular, mention may be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer). The amount of polyester in the composition according to the invention can vary to a large extent and depends in particular on the desired dosage and the desired effects. Advantageously, and to give an order of magnitude, the polyester or polyesters represent from 0.1% to 50%, preferably from 0.5% to 20%, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As explained above, the composition according to one or more organic oils.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound having at least one chain of two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least one

6 carbon atoms and insoluble in water at the concentration by weight of 5%, preferably at the concentration of 1%, better of 0, 1%, and at 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and which is liquid under these conditions of temperature or pressure. The organic oil (s) may be polar or non-polar.

Among the polar oils, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon oils comprising ester, ether, acid, alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as fatty alcohols and fatty acids, and their esters. It is thus possible to cite as a polar oil with a molecular weight of less than 1000: hydrocarbon vegetable oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 7 to 22 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids. These oils include wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, of pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier , passionflower, rose hip or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the name MIGLYOL 810, 812 and 818 by DYNAMIT NOBEL;

different liquid esters of triglycerides, especially triglycerides above, and derived from C 3 -C 30 carboxylic acid and C 1 -C 30 alcohol, at least one of the acid or alcohol being branched or unsaturated and at least one of the acid or alcohol having more than 6 carbon atoms.

Octyldodecyl behenate, isoketyl behenate, isocetyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, isostearyl octanoate and isocetyl octanoate may be mentioned. , decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isoketyl laurate, isoketyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, palmitate, isostearyl, myristyl isostearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononate, octyl isostearate, octyldodecyl erucate, isopropyl palmitates, ethyl palmitate, 2-hexyl, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, branched alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, tert-butyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, stearate isobutyl, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

It is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 26 di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols. .

These include diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, octyldodecyl stearate, and the like. stearoyl, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, triisopropyl citrate, triisotearyl citrate, trioctyldodecyl citrate.

Preferably, the acid and the alcohol of the ester are saturated. Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, branched alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate, and -butyl, 2-octyldodecyl, hexyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, isobutyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate.

Mention may also be made of esters of C 7 -C 30 aromatic acid and of C 1 -C 30 alcohol, preferably esters of C 7 -C 17 aromatic acid and of C 1 -C 20 alcohol. These esters are in particular C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates, isostearyl benzoate, octyledodecyl benzoate, behenyl benzoate, ethyl benzoate and the like.

2hexyle.

branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol; - branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain C 12 -C 26 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or isostearic acid;

- or their mixtures.

As explained above, the organic oil or oils present in the composition according to the invention may be apolar oils.

By "apolar oil" within the meaning of the present invention is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C δ _a is equal to 0 (J / cm ³ ) ^Λ . The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article of C. M. HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space:

- δo characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δ _p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - δh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.);

- δ _a is determined by the equation: δ _a = (δ _p ² + δh ² ) ^{/ 2}

The parameters δ _p , δh, δo and δ _a are expressed in (J / cm ³ ) ^{/ 2} .

The apolar oil or oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and fluorinated oils.

By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing silicon atom or fluorine. According to one embodiment, the apolar hydrocarbon oil is devoid of heteroatom (s). By heteroatom is meant an atom other than carbon or hydrogen.

Among the hydrocarbon oils, squalene, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as paraffin, petrolatum and naphthalene oils, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as Parleam® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS) or partially hydrogenated, may be mentioned. isoeicosane, squalane, polydecenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14, polydecenes such as PURESYN 10, and mixtures thereof. By "silicone oil" or "silicone oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups. The silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention can be phenyl silicone oils (by phenyl silicone, an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl group), polydimethylsiloxanes.

(PDMS) nonvolatile, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. Among the phenyl silicone oils, mention may be made of Belsil PDM 1000 from WACKER (MW = 9000 g / mol), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyls methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes.

The apolar oil may also be chosen from fluorinated oils (an oil containing at least one fluorine atom) such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates and fluorinated ester oils. .

According to a particular embodiment, the apolar oil is a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil which can be advantageously chosen from saturated, linear or branched alkanes. The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the keratin materials at ambient temperature (25 ° C. ± 5 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mmHg ( 0, 13 Pa) A nonvolatile oil can also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm ² .

The organic oil or oils generally represent from 1 to 30%, preferably from 2 to 15%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio organic oil (s) / polyester (s) liquid (s) is greater than 1.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cosmetic additives chosen from silicones other than the organic oils described above, the fatty substances other than the organic oils described above, and in particular vegetable waxes, surfactants, fixing polymers and fibers. , mineral particles, perfumes, floral waters, plasticizers, glycols, sunscreens, basifying agents, acidifying agents, preservatives, permanent or temporary dyes, mineral fillers, flakes, agents conditioners, anti-foam agents, moisturizing agents, humectants, emollients, polymeric or non-polymeric thickeners, peptizers, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and provitamins, proteins, agents sequestering agents, solubilizing agents, oxidizing agents, anti-corrosion agents and reducing or antioxidants.

The silicones optionally present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes which are in the form of waxes, resins or gums. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academy Press.

The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are in particular polydiorganosiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures.

In particular, the following products may be mentioned:

the polydimethylsiloxane gums,

polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane gums,

polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums,

polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums.

More particularly useful products are the following mixtures:

mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature) and a cyclic poly-dimethylsiloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning; mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The SF product

1236 is the mixture of a SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m ² / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5.10 ^"6 m ² / s.

This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.

The resins optionally organopolysiloxanes present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R ₂ SiO ₂ Z _2, RsSiOi / _2, RSiÛ3 / ₂ and SiO4 / ₂ wherein R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower alkyl radical C ₁ -C ₄ , more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical.

Among these resins may be mentioned the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21 -5034 and X21 -5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

As explained above, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactant (s) optionally present in the composition according to the invention may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic or cationic surfactants.

Surfactants suitable for the implementation of the present invention are in particular the following:

(i) Anionic surfactant (s):

By way of example of anionic surfactants which may be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (nonlimiting list) of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amino salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C6-C24) alkylsulfosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylsulfosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylamidesulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulfoacetates; the acyl (C6-C24) sarcosinates and the acyl (C6-C24) glutamates. It is also possible to use (C6-C24) alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts, the alkyl (C6-C24) carboxylic ether acids. polyoxyalkylenated polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkylcarboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkylamido carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene groups, and their mixtures.

(ii) Nonionic surfactant (s):

Nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 16-188). . Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, polyethoxylated alkylphenols, polypropoxylated, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide which may range from 2 to 50. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1, 5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as amine (C 1 -C 14) alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. Mention may also be made of alkylpolyglucosides.

Mention may in particular be made of stearyl alcohol, alcoholic ketostearyl and polysorbate 20.

Among the polyalkylglucosides, there may be mentioned, for example, the products sold by HENKEL under the name APG, such as the products APG 300, APG 350, APG 500, APG 550, APG 625, APG base 10-12; products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 1 10 (or ORAMIX CG 1 10) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX NS 10); those sold by the company BA S. F. under the name LUTENSOL GD 70; sold by HENKEL under the names PLANTAREN 1200, PLANTAREN 1300, PLANTAREN 2000, and PLANTACARE 2000, PLANTACARE

818, PLANTACARE 1200.

(iii) Amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic surfactant (s):

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be in particular (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic water-solubilising group (For example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate, mention may also be made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkylamido (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylbetaines or C ₁ -C 8 alkyl (C ₁ -C ₆ ) amidoalkyl (C 1 -C 6) sulfobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in US Pat.

2 528 378 and US-2 781 354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures: R ₂ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (R ₃ ) (R ₄ ) (CH ₂ ) ₂ COO ^" ) in which: R ₂ denotes a linear or branched C5-alkyl radical

C20 from, for example, an R ₂ -COOH acid present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; and

R ₂ '-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C) in which:

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX ', C represents - (CH ₂ ) _Z -Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH or a hydrogen atom Y' denotes -COOH or the radical -CH ₂ -CHOH -SO ₃ HR ₂ 'denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, at C5- C20 of an R9 -COOH acid present for example in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular C ₇ , C ₉ , C _n or C ₁₃ , a C ₁₇ alkyl radical; and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate,

Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid, Cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrated by Rhodia Chimie.

(iv) Cationic surfactants:

Among the cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list): salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character. Mention may in particular be made of methyl alkyl alkylamidoethyl imidazolinium methosulphate (Quaternium-87) marketed by Degussa under the reference VARISOFT W 575 PG, or behenyltrimethylammonium chloride marketed by the company. CLARIANT under the reference GENAMIN KDMP. There may also be mentioned cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride.

It is also possible to use, as cationic surfactants, quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (I) below:

wherein: R22 is selected from alkyl and Ci -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals Ci -C ₆ alkyl; R23 is selected from:

O II

the radical R ₂₆ - C -

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radicals R ₂₇ ,

the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R ₂₈ - C -

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals R 29,

- the hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon radicals; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to

6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X ^" is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is

R ₂₉ .

The alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R _{23 is a} hydrocarbon radical R ₂₇ , it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 radical, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C _{1 1} -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from C ₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals. , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.

The anion X ^- is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (I) in which:

R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,

- x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

- R23 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R ₂₆ - C -

- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals, - the hydrogen atom;

- R25 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R ₂₈ - C -

- the hydrogen atom;

- R24, R26 and R ₂ 8, identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon radicals in C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from alkyl and alkenyl radicals in C ₁₃ -C _17, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear. There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (I) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl- hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification. of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl) or methane sulphonate. methyl, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART ^® by Henkel, Stepanquat® ^® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ^® by CECA Rewoquat ^® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco. The composition according to the invention may preferably contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

As a mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methyl sulfate and 15 to 30% triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, acyl radicals having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and from partially partially hydrogenated palm oil. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

The surfactant or surfactants generally represent from 0 to 20%, preferably from 0.05 to 10%, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

As explained above, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fixing polymers.

The fixing polymers that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen in particular from the cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fixing polymer" is intended to mean any polymer which makes it possible to impart a shape or to maintain a given shape or hairstyle.

The fixing polymers that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen especially from cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers and their mixtures. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

The cationic fixing polymers that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from polymers containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and having a number-average molecular weight of between 500 and about 5,000,000, and preferably between 1,000 and 3,000,000. Among these polymers, the following cationic polymers may be mentioned more particularly:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers of acrylate or methacrylic esters or amides with amino functional groups, comprising at least one of the following units of formulas:

R ₃ R, R,

-VS

in which :

R 1 and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ group; A is a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R _4, R 5, R _O, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms or benzyl;

X denotes a methosulphate anion or a halogenide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family (1) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyl groups (C _{1 - 4} ), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcapro lactam, vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide such as that sold under the name Hercofloc ^® by Hercules, copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in EP-A-080976 and sold under the name Bina

QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate quaternized or non-quaternized copolymers, such as products sold under the name "Gafquat ^®" by ISP, for example, "Gafquat ^® 734" or "Gafquat ^® 755", or alternatively the products known as "Copolymer ^® 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French Patent Nos. 2,077,143 and

2,393,573, the dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone such as the product sold under the name Gaffix ^® VC 713 by the company ISP, and - the vinylpyrrolidone / quaternized dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide such as in particular the product sold under the name " GAFQUAT ^® HS 100 "by the company ISP;

crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by the methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.

(2) cationic polysaccharides, preferably quaternary ammonium, such as those described in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Such products are sold in particular under the trade names of Jaguar C 13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 by the company Meyhall; (3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole;

(4) chitosans or their salts; the salts that can be used are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate. These compounds include the chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name KYTAN Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies, chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylate sold under the name KYT AMER ^® PC by AMERCHOL company. (5) cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and described especially in US Pat. No. 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl-cellulose grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "CELQUAT L 200" and "CELQUAT H 100" by the company National Starch. The anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular mass of between about 500 and 5,000,000. The carboxylic groups are provided by mono- or diacid monomers. unsaturated carboxylic acids such as those having the formula:

^R? \ _/ (A ₁ VCOOH

(H)

R /

R

in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, Ai denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as that oxygen or sulfur, R ₇ denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, Rs denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, R 9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a group -CH ₂ -COOH, phenyl or benzyl. In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl and ethyl groups.

The anionic fixing polymers with carboxylic groups that can be used in a preferred manner according to the invention are: A) Homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL ^® E or K by the company Allied Colloid and Ultrahold ^® by the company BASF, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salts under the denominations RETEN 421, 423 or 425 by the company HERCULES, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.

B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,222,944 and German Application No. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated such as described in particular in the Luxembourg patent applications Nos ^. 75370 and 75371 or proposed under the name QUADRAMER by AMERICAN CYANAMID. Mention may also be methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / butyl acrylate terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Luvimer ^® 100 P by the company BASF.

Mention may also be methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer in aqueous dispersion sold under the name ^® Amerhold DR 25 by the company Amerchol.

C) Crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers or vinyl esters of a saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers may optionally be grafted or crosslinked, or another monomer vinyl ester, allyl or methallylic of a CC- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French Patents ^Nos 1222944, 1580545, 2265782, 2265781, 1564 1 10 and 2 439 798. Commercial products coming within this class are the resins 28- 29-30, 26-13 and 14-21 sold by the company National

Starch.

D) copolymers of C ₄ -C ₅ monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from:

copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric and itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. Such polymers are described in particular in U.S. Patent Nos ^. 2,047,398, 2,723

248, 2 102 1 13, GB Patent No. 839 805. Commercial products are in particular those sold under the names GANTREZ ^® AN or ES by the company ISP.

copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic and itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allylic or methallyl esters optionally containing one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin or acrylic or methacrylic ester groups; acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified.

These polymers are for example described in French Patent Nos ^. 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the Applicant.

E) Polyacrylamides having carboxylate groups.

Homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulphonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrene-sulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acrylamido-alkylsulphonic units. These polymers may especially be chosen from:

salts of polyvinylsulphonic acid having a molecular mass of between about 1,000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone.

- salts of polystyrene sulfonic acid such as the sodium salts are sold under the names Flexan ^® 500 and Flexan ^® 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719.

polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631, and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the name COSMEDIA POLYMER HSP 1,180 by Henkel. Preferably, the anionic fixing polymers are chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide sold under the name Ultrahold ^® STRONG by the company BASF, copolymers derived acid crotonic such as vinyl acetate terpolymers / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, polymers derived therefrom maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name GANTREZ ^® by ISP, acid copolymers m ethacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate sold under the name EUDRAGIT ^® L by the company ROHM PHARMA, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name LUVIMER ^® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF and the copolymers acetate of vinyl / crotonic acid sold in particular under the name Luviset CA 66 by the company BASF and the vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyéthylèneglyco l sold under the name Aristoflex ^® A by the company BASF.

Among the anionic fixing polymers mentioned above, are more particularly preferred use in the context of the present invention the methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez ^® ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid / acrylate ethyl / N-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name Ultrahold ^® STRONG by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit ^® L by the company Rohm Pharma, the vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate of vinyl / crotonic acid and the crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company

NATIONAL STARCH, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer ^® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF.

The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer having one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines;

B and C may also designate a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or B and C are part of a chain of an ethylene-α, β-dicarboxylic-containing polymer, one of which has been reacted with a carboxylic group. polyamine having one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

The amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers:

(1) copolymers with acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in U.S. Patent No. 3,836,537.

(2) polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group; b) with at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more several reactive carboxylic groups, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituted esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl sulfate or diethyl.

The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are those compounds whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide,

N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic and itaconic acids. maleic, fumaric as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.

Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylates,

N-tert-butylaminoethyl.

Particularly The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed. 1991) is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® ^® or Lovocryl ^® 47 by the company

NATIONAL STARCH.

(3) polyamino amides crosslinked and acylated partially or totally derived from poyaminoamides of general formula:

-CO- - R 10 -CO-

(III)

wherein Rio represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an ethylenically double-bonded mono or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid, an ester of a lower alkano l having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a group derived from the addition of any of said acids with a bis-primary or bis-secondary amine, and Z denotes a group derived from a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the group

where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this group derived from diethylene triamine, triethylene tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (XVIII) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine:

c) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the -NH- (CH ₂ ) O-NH- group derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by the addition reaction of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amino group of the polyaminoamide, and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or a alkane-sultone or their salts.

The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic acids, terephthalic acids, and double acids. ethylenic bond such as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids.

The alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.

(4) polymers having zwitterionic units of formula:

O

in which Rn denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate or acrylamide group or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, R12 and R represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl, R14 and R ₅ represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15 does not exceed 10.

Polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.

By way of example, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethylmethacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ.

(5) polymers derived from chitosan having monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas:

the unit (D) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the unit (F) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit (F), Ri ₆ represents a group of formula:

in which if q = 0, R ₁₇ , R 1 and R ₉ , which are identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and / or optionally substituted by one or more amino, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio, sulphonic groups, an alkylthio radical whose alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of Ri ₇ , Ri s and R ₁₉ groups; being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q = l, Ri ₇ , Ri s and Ri ₉ each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.

(6) The polymers comprising units corresponding to the general formula (V) are, for example, described in French Patent 1,400,366:

wherein R20 is hydrogen, CH3O, CH3CH2O, phenyl, R21 is hydrogen or lower alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, R22 is hydrogen or C1-lower alkyl; -C ₆ such that methyl, ethyl, R 23 denotes a C 1 -C ₆ lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R 24 -N (R 22) ₂ , R-24 representing a group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH (CH 2) -, R ₂₂ having the meanings mentioned above.

(7) The polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan, sold under the name "Evalsan" by the company JAN

Dekker.

(8) amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X selected from:

a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:

-D-X-D-X-D- (VI)

where D is a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which may be the same or different, denotes a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the unsubstituted or substituted backbone. hydroxyl groups and may further comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide groups, alcohol, ester and / or urethane.

b) polymers of formula: -DXDX- (VII) where D denotes a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betaineized by reaction with the acid; chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.

(9) (C 1 -C 5) alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkanol. These copolymers may also comprise other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam. Among the amphoteric fixing polymers described above, the most particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylamino-ethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names AMPHOMER ^® , AMPHOMER ^® LV 71 or LOVOCRYL ^® 47 by NATIONAL

Starch and those of family (4) such as copolymers of methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl sold for example under the name Diaformer® ^® Z301 by Sandoz. The nonionic fixing polymers that can be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from:

polyalkyloxazolines;

homopolymers of vinyl acetate; vinyl acetate copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example, dibutyl maleate;

- homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters such as, for example, alkyl acrylates and copolymers of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products sold by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Primal AC-261 K ^® and EUDRAGIT ^® NE 30 D, by BASF under the name 8845, by Hoechst under the name APPRETAN ^® 9212;

copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; mention may be made of the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by the company Rohm &Haas; homopolymers of styrene;

- copolymers of styrene such as, for example, copolymers of styrene and of alkyl (meth) acrylate such as Mowilith LDM ^® products 691 1 Mowilith ^® DM 61 1 and Mowilith ^® LDM 6070 sold by the company Hoechst, the RHODOPAS ^® SD 215 and RHODOPAS ^® DS 910 products offered by RHODIA CHIMIE; copolymers of styrene, alkyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine; polyamides; vinyllactam homopolymers such as homopolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl caprolactam or sold under the name Luviskol ^® PLUS by the company BASF; and - vinyllactam copolymers such as a poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® ^® VPC 55K65W by BASF, poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) as those marketed under the name PVPVA® ^® S630L by ISP company, Luviskol ^®

VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by BASF; terpolymers and poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate), for example, that marketed under the name Luviskol ^® VAP 343 by BASF. The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Can also be used as fixing polymers, functionalized or non-functionalized polyurethanes, silicone or non-silicone, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric, or mixtures thereof. The polyurethanes particularly targeted by the present invention are those described in applications EP 0 75 1 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297 of which the applicant is the holder, as well as in applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 of the company BASF, and EP 0 619 11 1 of the company National Starch. As polyurethanes that are suitable in the present invention include products sold under the names LUVISET PUR ^® and LUVISET ^® Si PUR by BASF.

The fixing polymer (s) is (are) present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As explained above, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polymeric thickening agents or not.

As polymeric thickeners, there may be mentioned crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers (INCI name: CARBOMER) and nonionic associative polyurethanes or anionic compounds, such as the compounds ACULYN 44 and 46, and

VISCOPHOBE DB 1000.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises glycerine. When present, glycerin can represent from 1 to

30%, preferably 2 to 15%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to water in an amount of greater than 30%, preferably greater than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a cosmetically acceptable medium.

By cosmetically acceptable medium is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials and in particular the hair. The cosmetically acceptable medium may comprise a cosmetically acceptable water-soluble solvent.

The cosmetically acceptable water-soluble solvent may be chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, polyols, polyol ethers, C ₅ -C ₁₀ alkanes, C ₃ -C ₄ ketones and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acetates. dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of cream, paste or in the form of foam (aerosol or not), or gel. When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a foam, it can be packaged in an aerosol. In this case, it comprises one or more propellants. The propellant (s) is (are) chosen from non - liquefied compressed gases, such as air, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide or dimethyl ether, or from liquefied gases such as volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, isobutane, propane, pentane and halogenated hydrocarbons. For example, a mixture of one or more volatile hydrocarbons can be used with dimethyl ether. The foam can still be obtained without thruster by means of a pump bottle.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process comprising the application to the keratin materials, preferably the keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, of a cosmetic composition as defined above. This application may or may not be followed by rinsing.

The composition according to the invention may especially be used in hair styling compositions or in shampoos. The present invention is illustrated by the following example.

Example

A composition A according to the invention comprising a polar oil, octyldodecanol, is prepared from water with a content greater than

30% by weight, and Viscoplast 14436H which is a liquid polyester obtained by condensation of butanediol and dilinoleic acid (dimer of linoleic acid).

The formulation of composition A is given in Table 1. The contents are given by weight of active ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition

Table 1

The performance of composition A according to the invention has been evaluated by professionals on model panels.

Composition A makes it possible to obtain a good level of gloss, without touching greasy or sticky.

Claims

Cosmetic composition comprising one or more liquid polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and saturated linear diol, one or more organic oils, and water with a content of greater than 30% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the polyester or polyesters are obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and / or from an unsaturated fatty acid trimer. comprising from 42 to 66 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that the saturated linear diol is a butanediol.

4. Composition according to claim 3 characterized in that the butanediol is selected from 1, 2-butanediol, 1,3-butanedio l and the

1, 4-butanediol.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said polyester or polyesters represent from 0.1% to 50%, preferably from 0.5% to 20%, better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester. the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic oil or oils may be polar or apolar.

7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the polar oils are chosen from hydrocarbon vegetable oils, liquid esters different from triglycerides and derived from C 3 -C 30 carboxylic acid and C 1 -C 30 alcohol, at least one of the acid or alcohol being branched or unsaturated and at least one of the acid or alcohol having more than 6 carbon atoms, the branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain fatty alcohols having from 12 to

26 carbon atoms, and branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain C 12 -C 26 fatty acids.

8. Composition according to claim 6 characterized in that the apolar oils are selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and fluorinated oils.

9. Composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that the hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from squalene, paraffin, petrolatum, naphthalene oils, hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, squalane, polydecenes and copolymers. decene / butene, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, and polydecenes.

10. Composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that the silicone oils are chosen from phenyl silicone oils, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, and polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups having each of 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

1. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the fluoro oils are chosen from perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates, and fluorinated ester oils.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic oil or oils represent from 1 to 30%, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of organic oil (s) / polyester (s) liquid (s) is greater than 1.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises glycerine.

15. Cosmetic treatment process comprising the application to keratinous materials, preferably keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.