WO2010112734A1

WO2010112734A1 - Cosmetic hair treatment method comprising the application of a composition comprising a cationic polymer followed by the application of a composition comprising a zwitterionic surfactant

Info

Publication number: WO2010112734A1
Application number: PCT/FR2010/050548
Authority: WO
Inventors: Estelle Mathonneau
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-03-31
Filing date: 2010-03-25
Publication date: 2010-10-07
Also published as: FR2943540A1; FR2943540B1

Abstract

The present application relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, and more particularly the hair, characterized in that it comprises at least the following two steps: a first step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition comprising one or more cationic polymers, and then a second step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition containing one or more zwitterionic surfactant(s) comprising a fatty chain or fatty chains, the zwitterionic surfactant(s) being such that at least 50% by weight thereof have at least one fatty chain containing a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 14.

Description

COSMETIC HAIR TREATMENT PROCESS COMPRISING THE APPLICATION OF A COMPOSITION

COMPRISING A CATIONIC POLYMER THEREFORE THE APPLICATION OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING A ZWITTERIONIC SURFACTANT

The present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers comprising successive applications of at least one cationic polymer and then at least one zwitterionic surfactant.

In the field of hair cosmetics there is still a need to improve the performance of existing compositions and treatments. Research is constantly being carried out to improve the various cosmetic treatments of keratinous fibers, in particular care, conditioning, coloring (direct or oxidation), permanent, shaping ... More particularly this research aims to improve the conditioning of the hair during these different treatments. The problem posed at the origin of the present invention is to propose a method which makes it possible to improve the conditioning of the hair.

To improve the conditioning of treated hair, it has already been proposed to use, in hair care compositions, conditioning agents, in particular cationic surfactants, cationic polymers or silicones.

However, if these compositions make it possible, to a certain extent, to improve the disentangling and the softness of the hair, they unfortunately also accompany, on hair, some cosmetic effects considered undesirable, namely a heavier hairstyle (lack of lightness of hair), a lack of smoothing (non-homogeneous hair from root to tip) and insufficient concerning gloss.

In particular, the use of cationic polymers for this purpose has various disadvantages. Because of their high affinity for the hair, some of these polymers deposit significantly during repeated use, and lead to undesirable effects such as unpleasant, loaded, stiffening of the hair, and internal adhesion. fibers affecting styling. These disadvantages are accentuated in the case of fine hair, which lack of nervousness and volume. Current cosmetic compositions containing cationic conditioning agents therefore do not give complete satisfaction.

In addition, cationic surfactants are not perfectly tolerated by aquatic fauna and flora and their performance is limited especially in terms of smoothing.

After many works and unexpectedly and advantageously, the Applicant has demonstrated that these problems could be solved by means of a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers and more particularly hair comprising at least the two following steps:

a first step of applying to the keratinous fibers a composition comprising one or more cationic polymers and then a second step of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition containing one or more zwitterionic chain surfactants; the said zwitterionic surfactant (s) being at least 50% by weight of them having at least one fatty chain having a number of carbon atoms equal to or greater than 14.

Each of the steps of the process, i.e., the step of applying the cationic polymer (s) and the step of applying zwitterionic surfactant (s) may be followed by rinsing the keratinous fibers with water.

The term "fatty chain" as used herein means an alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

By "step of application of a composition" in the sense of the present application, it is understood that the composition is applied to the entire area to be treated and then allowed to pause the composition for a period of between 30 seconds and 20 minutes, preferably between 1 and 5 minutes.

The method according to the present invention makes it possible to improve the conditioning of the treated keratinous fibers, in particular it confers a relaxation to the keratinous fibers during the application of the zwitterionic surfactant, as well as an effect of flexibility and smoothing on keratinous fibers. wet at the end of the implementation of the process, especially after the possible rinsing.

The cosmetic hair treatment method according to the present invention may be a method for the care or conditioning of keratinous fibers, in particular a hair washing process intended to provide softness to keratinous fibers. It may also be a process for direct dyeing or oxidation or makeup of keratinous fibers, a process for shaping, fixing and / or maintaining keratinous fibers and especially permanent fibers. When one of these treatments is implemented, it is noted that the conditioning in particular the smoothing, softness, flexibility are improved.

Other characteristics, aspects, objects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. First stage As a cationic polymer that can be used in the composition applied in the first step of the process according to the invention, mention may be made of any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups. The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in the patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in the French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 61 1, 2 470 596 and

2,519,863.

The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers used have a weight average molecular weight greater than 15,000, preferably greater than 10 ⁵ and more preferably 10 ^{6 to} 10 ⁸ . Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers. These are known products.

The polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide or quaternary polyammonium type that can be used in the composition of the present invention are those described in French patents Nos. 2,505,348 and 2,542,997. Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas: CH;

O =

O = C

O = C NH NH

XAA. N. R ₄ - N -R ₆

R; R. R.

in which :

R 1 and R ₂ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl group;

R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; the symbols A, identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R ₄ , R 5, R ₆ , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower alkyl groups. (C ₁ -C ₄ ), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Thus, among these polymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES , the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described for example in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name

BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers quaternized or otherwise, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the ISP company as example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or the products referred to as "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573.

dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP, the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by the methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.

(2) cationic polysaccharides chosen in particular from: a) cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" ( LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. b) cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described especially in US Pat. No. 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallyl ammonium.

The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch. c) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides described in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,013,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt, for example chloride, of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C 13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C 162 by the company MEYHALL.

(3) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are especially described in French Patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, a epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amino functions, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

(5) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / diakylaminohydroxyalkyl-dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene group contains from 1 to 4 atoms. carbon, and preferably denotes the ethylene group. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583,363.

Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl-diethylene triamine polymers.

(6) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least a secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1, 4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1, 8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents US 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine. (7) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

)

formulas in which k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

R ₇ and R ₅ , independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group ( C1-C4), or R ₇ and Rs may designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R ₇ and R ₅ independently of each other preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French Patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

Among the cationic polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride especially sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Nalco and its low molecular weight average counterparts and the chloride copolymers diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT 550". (8) Quaternary diammonium polymers containing recurring units corresponding to formula (III):

^ 10 R12

- N + -A ₁ - N + - B ₁

I I

"11 X ^{" R} 13 X ^" _{(| | |)}

formula (III) in which: R 1, R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₁ , which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 6, carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or Ri ₀ , Rn, R ₁₂ and Ri ₃ , together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, constitute heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else Rio, Rn, R ₁₂ and Rn represent a linear or branched C 1 -C ₆ alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group or -CO-OR ₁₄ -D or -CO-NH-R ₁₄ -D where R ₁₄ is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;

Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; At ₁ , Rio and Ri ₂ can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a - (CH ₂ ) n -CO-D-OC- (CH ₂ ) n- in which n is between 1 and 100 and preferably between 1 and 50, and D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to the one of the following formulas:

- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) X-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - - [CH ₂ -CH (CHS) -O] V-CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) - where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical

-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100000.

Polymers of this type are described in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614 and 2,454,547. 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432,

3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

Polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (IV) can be used more particularly: R 10 ^ 12

- N ⁺ (CH ₂ ) n ^" (CH

I I 2> P -

R 11 X ^" ^R 13 X ^"

(IV) wherein R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₁ , which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 20 and, X - is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. (9) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (V):

CH, CH,

-N ⁺ - (CH ₂ ) P - NH - CO - D - NH - (CH ₂ ) P - N - (CH ₂ ) ₂ - O - (CH ₂ ) ₂

CH ₃ 2X-CH, 3

(V) in which: p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6, D may be zero or may represent a grouping

- (CH ₂ ) T - CO - wherein r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and

X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. The cationic polymers comprising units of formula (V) are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324 and may be prepared according to the processes described in the U.S. patents. A. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,390,689, 4,702,906, 4,719,282.

Among these polymers, those with a molecular weight measured by 13C NMR of less than 100,000 are preferred, and in the formula of which: p is 3, and, a) D is - (CFh) ₄ -CO-, X is chlorine, the molecular weight measured by 13C NMR of Carbon 13 is about 5600; a polymer of this type is provided by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-AD 1, b) D represents a group - (CH ₂ ) 7 - CO -, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by NMR of Carbon 13 (13C NMR) being about 8100; a polymer of this type is provided by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-AZ 1, c) D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by 13C NMR (13 C NMR) being about 25500; a polymer of this type is sold by MIRANOL under the name MIRAP0L-A15, d) a "Block Copolymer" formed by patterns corresponding to the polymers described in paragraphs a) and c), proposed by the company

MIRANOL under the names MIRAPOL-9, (13C NMR molecular weight, about 7800) MIRAPOL-175, (13C NMR molecular weight, about 8000) MIRAPOL-95, (13C NMR molecular weight, about 12500).

Even more particularly, according to the invention, the patterned polymer of formula (V) in which p is equal to 3, D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, and the molecular weight measured by 13CNR of Carbon 13, (13C NMR) being about 25500.

(10) The quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B. A. S. F.

(1 1) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives. Among all the cationic polymers that can be used in the first step of the process according to the invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of the families, (7) and (8).

In a particularly preferred manner, the first step of the process according to the invention will be carried out using the polymers of the family (7) and more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, sold especially under the name "Merquat 100" by the NALCO company.

The composition applied in the first step of the process according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of cationic polymer (s) relative to the total weight of the composition to apply.

In a particularly preferred manner, the composition applied in the first step of the process according to the invention does not comprise a zwitterionic surfactant comprising at least one fatty chain which has a number of carbon atoms equal to or greater than 14.

Second step

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "zwitterionic surfactant" is intended to mean a surfactant which has in its structure one or more negative charges and one or more positive charges, these being balanced to give a total charge of zero.

The zwitterionic surfactant (s) used in the second step of the process according to the invention are preferably molecules comprising:

an anionic charge at one end of the molecule, for example a sulphate, sulphonate or carboxylate group,

"a cationic charge, constituted by a quaternary ammonium, between these two charges, a spacer comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted or interrupted by one or more heteroatoms,

"one or more fatty chain (s) alkyl (s), saturated (s) or unsaturated (s), unsubstituted or substituted (s) by one or more hydroxyl groups, l (es) said ( s) chain (s) being attached to the nitrogen atom of the quaternary ammonium group, optionally via an alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and having one or more amide functions , wherein these surfactants are characterized in that at least 50% of them have at least one fatty chain having a number of carbon atoms equal to or greater than 14.

In a preferred manner, these zwitterionic surfactants comprising a fatty chain of at least 14 carbon atoms correspond to the formula (VI):

(VI) wherein:

R 1 is an alkyl or alkenyl chain unsubstituted or substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms; m is an integer ranging from 1 to 3;

n is 0 or 1; R 2 and R 3, independently of each other, represent an alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms which is unsubstituted or mono-substituted by a hydroxyl group;

R 4 represents an alkylene chain comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted or mono-substituted by a hydroxyl group;

X is selected from the following groups CO ₂ , SO 3, SO ₄ .

Among the preferred zwitterionic surfactants, there are: [N, N-dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] propane sulphonate of formula:

with n = 14; N, N-dimethyl-N-tetradecyl-N (3-sulfopropyl) ammonium betaine of formula:

this compound is for example marketed under the name Ralufon DM by Raschig;

Cetyl propyl hydroxy sultaine of formula:

And the betaines of formula:

for which :

R = Ci ₆ H _33, ie cetylbetaine, this compound is, for example, sold under the name DETAINE PB by DEFOREST ENTERPRISES.

R = C ₂₂ H _{45, that} is to say behenylbetaine (In CRONAM B40-CRODA) R = CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) 2oC (O) N (H) (CH ₂ ) 3, that is to say behenylamidopropyl betaine; this compound is for example marketed under the name MACKAM® BA by Mclntyre Group Ltd. Betaines for which R = R'-C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ - with:

R ': C ₁₈ ZC ₁₆ (oleostearyl), the R' CO radical being derived from shea butter fatty acids, INCI name Sheabutteramidopropylbetaine and trade name: Lipex Shea betaine Aarhuskarlshamn; R ': C ₁₈ (oleic), the radical R' CO being derived from the fatty acids of olive oil, INCI name olivamidopropylbetaine, trade name: Tensolive (Soliance)

R: C ₁₇ H ₃₂ OH, the R 'CO radical being derived from castor oil, INCI ricinoleamidopropylbetaine name Rewoteric AM R40 (Evonik Goldschmidt).

Even more preferably, the zwitterionic surfactants used are [N, N-dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] -propanesulfonate and behenylbetaine, and ricinoleamidopropylbetaine. The composition applied during the second step of the process according to the present invention generally comprises from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of zwitterionic surfactants according to the invention relative to the total weight of said composition.

The compositions applied during the first or the second stage of the process according to the present invention may in addition, contain at least one thickening agent also called "rheology adjusting agent".

Preferably, the thickening agents are thickening polymers. These thickening polymers may be associative or non-associative.

The non-associative polymers are those having no C8-C30 fatty chain. Among non-associative thickening polymers, mention may be made of modified or unmodified polysaccharides, starch and its derivatives, including carboxymethyl starches, cellulose and its derivatives such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, guar gums and their derivatives such as hydroxyalkyl guars and microbial gums. like xanthan gum. Non-associative non-polysaccharide thickeners include homo and copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or acrylamide propane sulfonic acid. The associative polymers that may be used according to the invention are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones characterized by the presence of at least one fatty chain.

The associative polymers that may be used according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric and preferably nonionic type.

Among the associative polymers of the anionic type, mention may be made of:

(I) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly by a vinyl carboxylic acid and especially with an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (VII) following:

CH ₂ = CR 'CH ₂ OB _n R (VII) wherein R' denotes H or CH _3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, cycloalkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. A more particularly preferred unit of formula (VII) is a unit in which R 'denotes H, n is equal to 10, and R denotes a stearyl (C ₁₈ ) radical.

Anionic associative polymers of this type are described and prepared according to an emulsion polymerization process in EP-0,216,479.

Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of (meth) acrylates, are particularly preferred according to the invention. lower alkyls, from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether of formula (VII), and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylenebisacrylamide.

Among these, crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) and stearyl alcohol (Steareth 10) are particularly preferred, in particular those sold by the company Allied Colloids under the names SALCARE SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40/50/10).

(II) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one unit hydrophobic ester of (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid.

Preferably, these polymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the following monomer of formula (VIII):

CH ₂ = CC-OH I II R ₁ O

(VIII) wherein R 1 is H or CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ , ie acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and the hydrophobic unit of the alkyl ester type (C 10 -C 5); C30) unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the following monomer of formula (IX)

CH ₂ = CC-OR ₃

I II

R ₂ O

(IX)

in which, R ₂ denotes H or CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH ₃ (methacrylate units), R ₃ denoting a C 10 -C 30 alkyl radical, and preferably a C ₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical.

Alkyl (C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ ) esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and the like. , dodecyl acrylate, and corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

Anionic polymers of this type are for example described and prepared according to US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

Among this type of anionic associative polymers, there will be used more particularly polymers formed from a monomer mixture comprising: (i) essentially acrylic acid,

(ii) an ester of formula (IX) described above and in which R ₂ denotes H or CH 3, R 3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and

(iii) a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylenebisacrylamide .

Among this type of anionic associative polymers, use will be made more particularly of those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of alkyl acrylate, and

C10-C30 (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of acrylate, C 10 -C 30 alkyls (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those previously described.

Among the above-mentioned polymers, the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen Tri®, Pemulen® TR2®, Carbopol® 1382® and, more preferably, Pemulen® Tri®, and the product sold by the company S. E.P.I. under the name COATEX SX®.

(III) the terpolymers of maleic anhydride / α-olefin C30-C38 / alkyl maleate such as the product (copolymer maleic anhydride / α-olefin C3o-C3s / isopropyl maleate) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES. - (IV) acrylic terpolymers comprising:

(a) about 20% to 70% by weight of an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid,

(b) about 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer different from (a),

(c) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a nonionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in the patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40OE) in a 25% aqueous dispersion.

(V) copolymers comprising among their monomers an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, a carboxylic acid ester containing CC, β-monoethylenic unsaturation and C 1 -C 4 alcohol.

By way of example of this type of compound, mention may be made of ACULYN 22® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated terpolymer. Among the associative polymers of cationic type, mention may be made of:

- (I) the cationic associative polyurethanes whose family has been described by the Applicant in the French patent application No. 0009609; it may be represented by the following general formula (X): ## STR5 ## wherein R and R ', identical or different, represent a grouping hydrophobic or a hydrogen atom;

X and X ', which are identical or different, represent a group comprising an amino function bearing or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L "; L, L' and L", which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; ;

P and P ', which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amino function bearing or not a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 50 and in particular from 1 to 25, n, m, and p are each independently from 0 to 1000; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amino function and at least one hydrophobic group.

In a preferred embodiment of these polyurethanes, the only hydrophobic groups are the R and R 'groups at the chain ends. A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (X) described above and wherein:

R and R 'both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X, X' each represent a group L ", n and p are between 1 and 1000 and

L, L ', L ", P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (X) above wherein:

R and R 'are both independently hydrophobic group, X, X 'each represents a group L ", n and p are 0, and L, L', L", Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

The fact that n and p are 0 means that these polymers do not comprise units derived from an amine-functional monomer incorporated in the polymer during the polycondensation. The protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysis of isocyanate functional groups, in excess, at the end of the chain, followed by the alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by hydrophobic group alkylation agents, i.e. ie compounds of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R 'are as defined above and Q is a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the above formula (X) wherein: R and R 'both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

X and X 'each independently represent a group having a quaternary amine, n and p are zero, and L, L', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

The number-average molecular mass of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500,000, in particular between 1,000 and 400,000 and ideally between 1,000 and 300,000. Hydrophobic group is understood to mean a radical or polymer with a saturated hydrocarbon-based chain. or not, linear or branched, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a perfluorinated or silicone chain radical. When it refers to a hydrocarbon radical, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound.

By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It can also denote a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.

When X and / or X 'denote a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulas:

for X

_ _R2 _N R _{2 for χ} ,

in which :

R ₂ represents an alkylene radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P;

R 1 and R ₃ , which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S , O, P;

A ^" is a physiologically acceptable counterion.

The groups L, L 'and L "represent a group of formula: - ZC-NH-R ₄ -NH-CZ-II ⁴ II

O O

in which :

Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and

R ₄ represents an alkylene radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S , O and P.

The groups P and P ', comprising an amino function, may represent at least one of the following formulas:

I ⁸ -R ₅ -NR ₇ - or - R ₅ -NR ₇ -

R ₆ R ₆ A

or -

R ₇ - or - _R5 _ _CH _ _R7 -

R ₆ -NR ₉ A

R ₈

in which :

R 5 and R ₇ have the same meanings as R ₂ defined above; R ₆ , R ₅ and R 9 have the same meanings as R 1 and R 3 defined above;

Rio represents a linear or branched alkylene group, optionally unsaturated and capable of containing one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P, and A ^" is a physiologically acceptable counterion.With respect to the meaning of Y, hydrophilic group means a water-soluble polymeric group or no.

By way of example, non-polymers include ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol. When it comes, according to a preferred embodiment, a hydrophilic polymer, there may be mentioned by way of example polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and especially a poly (ethylene oxide) or poly (propylene oxide). The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (X) that may be used according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds having functions with a labile hydrogen. The functions with a labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, respectively polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas. The term "polyurethanes" usable according to the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers namely polyurethanes themselves, polyureas and polythioureas as well as copolymers thereof. A first type of compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (X) is a compound comprising at least one amino function unit. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferentially the compound is difunctional, that is to say that according to a preferred embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms carried for example by a hydroxyl function, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol. It is also possible to use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

As indicated above, this compound may comprise more than one amino function unit. It is then a polymer carrying a repetition of the amino-functional unit. This type of compound can be represented by one of the following formulas:

HZ- (P) n -ZH, or HZ- (P ') p-ZH

in which Z, P, P ', n and p are as defined above. As an example of an amino-functional compound, mention may be made of N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyl diethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

The second compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (X) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula:

O = C = NR ₄ -N = C = O

in which R ₄ is defined above.

By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.

A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (X) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (X). This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a function with a labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function. By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as in particular stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. When this compound comprises a polymeric chain, it may be, for example, hydrogenated polybutadiene alpha-hydroxyl. The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (X) can also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound having at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R 'are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulphate, etc.

The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic block. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound used in the preparation of the polymer. This compound can be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. One can also have a mixture where the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

The functions with a labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends by one of these functions with labile hydrogen.

By way of example, non-polymers include ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made by way of example of polyethers, sulphonated polyesters, sulphonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and especially a poly (ethylene oxide) or poly (propylene oxide).

The hydrophilic group Y in formula (X) is optional. Indeed, the quaternary or protonated amine functional units may be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution. Although the presence of a hydrophilic Y group is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes having such a group are preferred.

(II) quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates with non-cyclic amine side groups.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are in particular

quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,

quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals carried by the celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses quaternized above preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains may be indicated.

Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529- 18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529- 18B® (alkyl ₂₎ and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C ₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol; and the products CRODACEL QM®, CRODACEL QL® (C 12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS® (C ₁₈ alkyl) marketed by the company

Croda.

The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mole% of monomer having a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 mole% and more particularly 1.5 to 6 mole%, based on the number, are preferred. total of moles of monomers.

The preferred amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention comprise, or are prepared by copolymerizing:

1) at least one monomer of formula (XI) or (XII):

AT-

, ^R 3

R ₁ ¹ -CH = CI -CM -Z- (C _n H _2n ) N ^N

I II D

R ₂ O ^K4

² (XII)

in which R 1 and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R 3, R ₄ and R 5, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5,

A ^" is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid, such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;

2) at least one monomer of formula (XIII)

R ₆ -CH = CR ₇ -COOH

(XIII) wherein, R ₆ and R ₇ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; and

3) at least one monomer of formula (XIV): R -CH = CR ₇ -COXR ₈ 6 ^{7 8} (XIV) in which R ₆ and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom, and Rs denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; at least one of the monomers of formula (XI), (XH) or (XIV) comprising at least one fatty chain.

The monomers of formula (XI) and (XII) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, dimethylaminoethylacrylate,

diethylaminoethylmethacrylate, diethylaminoethylacrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylate, dimethylaminopropylacrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, these monomers being optionally quaternized, for example by a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl halide or a C ₁ -C ₄ dialkyl sulphate.

More particularly, the monomer of formula (XI) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

The monomers of formula (XIII) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (XIII) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (XIV) of the present invention are selected preferably from the group consisting of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates of C 12 -C 22 and more particularly C ₁₆ -C _18. The monomers constituting the amphoteric chain polymers fat of the invention are preferably already neutralized and / or quaternized.

The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges is preferably equal to about 1. The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention preferably comprise from 1 to 10 mol% of the monomer comprising a fatty chain (monomer of formula (XI), ( XII) or (XIV), and preferably from 1.5 to 6 mol%.

The weight average molecular weight of the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention may vary from 500 to

50,000,000 and are preferably between 10,000 and 5,000,000.

The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as alkyl acrylates or methacrylates Ci-C ₄ .

Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in the patent application WO9844012.

Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, the terpolymers acrylic acid / chloride of

(meth) acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium / stearyl methacrylate.

The nonionic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from: (1) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; as an example:

hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably Cs-C ₂₂ , such as the product NATROSOL

PLUS Grade 330 CS® ₍₆ alkyls) sold by the company AQUALON, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100® sold by the company BEROL NOBEL,

those modified with polyalkylene glycol ether alkylphenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500® (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company

Amerchol.

- (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR

HM 22® (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210- 18® (alkyl chain ₄₎ and RE205- 1 ® (alkyl chain C ₂₀₎ sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc.

(3) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and of hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers, which may be exemplified by:

the ANTARON V216® or GANEX V216® products (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company

I. S. P.

products ANTARON V220® or GANEX V220® (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by I. S. P.

(4) copolymers of C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company

GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208®.

(5) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

(6) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences most often polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences. (7) polymers having an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one fatty chain, such as the PURE THIX® compounds proposed by SUD-CHEMIE.

Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The polyether polyurethanes may be multiblocked, in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic sequences may be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These same polymers may also be graft or star.

The nonionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.

By extension are also included among the nonionic polyurethane fatty chain polyethers those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic blocks by other chemical bonds.

As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use also the urea-functional Rheolate 205® sold by Rheox or the Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as the RM Acrysol

184®.

We can also mention the product ELFACOS T210® chain C _{_12-14} and the product Elfacos T212® alkyl chain C ₁₈ from Akzo.

The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS comprising a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, proposed at 20% solids content in water, may also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include, for example, Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Rheox. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and the DW 1206J proposed by the company Rohm & Haas.

The polyether polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380, 389 (1993). Even more particularly, it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) from stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a propylene glycol mixture ( 39%) and water (26%)]. Preferably, when the composition of the first and / or second stage contains a thickening agent, it is nonionic.

Preferably, the compositions applied in the first or the second step of the process according to the invention comprise one or more thickening agents, preferably polymeric and / or nonionic.

Advantageously, the composition applied in the first and / or in the second stage of the process according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, of thickening agents relative to the total weight. of the composition.

The composition applied in the first step and / or the composition applied in the second step of the process according to the invention may also contain one or more cosmetic additive (s) commonly used in the art, for example chosen ( s) among reducing agents, oxidizing agents, fats, silicones, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, emollients, alkalizing or acidifying agents, plasticizers, pigments, mineral fillers , clays, colloidal minerals, pearlescent agents, perfumes, peptizers, preservatives, proteins, vitamins, fixing polymers other than the cationic polymers used in the first stage, conditioning agents other than the cationic polymers used in the first step and other than the zwitterionic surfactants used in the second step.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the final composition. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additive (s) of the compositions according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties attached to the process according to the invention are not or substantially not altered by the proposed addition. The compositions applied in the first step and / or in the second step of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the composition comprises from 1 to 15%, preferably from 3 to 8% by weight of active material of at least one fatty alcohol relative to the total weight of said composition.

The compositions applied in the first step and / or in the second step of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more silicones.

The silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in said composition.

They may in particular comprise one or more polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in the composition of the invention and may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

The insoluble silicones are in particular dispersed in compositions in the form of particles generally having a number-average size of between 2 nanometers and 100 microns, preferably between 20 nanometers and 20 microns (measured with a particle size analyzer).

Polyorganosiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academy Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile polyorganosiloxane chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly from:

(i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and, preferably, from 4 to 5. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or

"SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE

70045 V 5 "by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure:

with D: ^~ O -

Mention may also be made of cyclic silicone mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1, 1 '- (hexa) -2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ^° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Similarly, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile polyorganosiloxane chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and linear polysiloxane block copolymers. (A) -polyoxyalkylene (B) of type (AB) n with n>3; grafted silicone polymers, with a non-silicone organic skeleton, consisting of an organic main chain formed from organic monomers containing no silicone, on which is grafted, within said chain as well as optionally at at least one of its ends, at least one polysiloxane macromonomer; the grafted silicone polymers having a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, comprising a polysiloxane main chain on which is grafted, within said chain as well as possibly at at least one of its ends, to the at least one organic macromonomer not comprising silicone; as well as their mixtures.

As examples of polyalkylsiloxanes, there may be mentioned polydimethylsiloxanes trimethylsilyl end groups having a viscosity of 5.10-6 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1 m2 / s. The viscosity of the silicones is, for example, measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:

the SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL oils marketed by RHONE POULENC, such as, for example, the 70 047 V 500 000 oil;

oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHONE POULENC;

the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, the DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 cSt;

- VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name), such as the oils of the 48 series of the company Rhone-Poulenc.

In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX"

9800 and 9801 "by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polyalkyl (C ₁ -C ₂₀ ) siloxanes. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes may in particular be chosen from polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and linear and / or branched polydimethyl-diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, there may be mentioned by way of example the products sold under the following names:

. the SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHONE POULENC; . the RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series oils from RHONE

POULENC;

. DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

. silicones of the PK series from BAYER, such as the product PK20;

. silicones of the PN and PH series from BAYER, such as the products PN 1 OOO and PH 1 OOO;

. certain oils of the series SF of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1 154, SF 1250, SF 1265. The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are, in particular, polydiorganosiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils and polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils.

(PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or mixtures thereof.

In particular, the following products may be mentioned:

polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums,

polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane,

polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane.

Can also be used mixtures of silicones such as:

. mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature), such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; . mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

. mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of

6m2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins usable according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R ₂ SiO ₂ Z _2, RsSiOi / _2, RSiÛ3 / ₂ and SiO4 / ₂ wherein R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon of carbon or a phenyl group.

Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl radical, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical.

These resins include the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those marketed under the denominations "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21 -5034 and X21 -5037 by the company Shin-

ETSU.

The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally containing C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone-copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or oils

SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 71 1 from UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C 12) -methicone-copolyol marketed by the company

Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;

substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are in particular C 1 -C ₄ aminoalkyl groups;

quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products sold under the names ABILQUAT 3272 and ABILQUAT 3474 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;

thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxyl groups, such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FR-A-85 16334;

acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US-A-4957732. anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type such as, for example, in the products described in patent EP 186 507 of the company Chisso Corporation, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701 E of the company SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulphate such as the products sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".

hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.

Particularly preferred silicones in the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, or polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxydimethylsilyl end groups, and amino silicones.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageously contains from 0.1 to 20% by weight of silicone (s), more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, still more preferably from 0.7 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions used in the first or second stage of the process according to the invention may comprise one or several anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof.

The anionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the invention are chosen especially from salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, sodium salts and the like. amino alcohols or alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium, of the following types: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, alpha olefins sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates and acylglutamates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the group aryl preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

It is also possible to use Cβ-24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside dicarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Another group of anionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention is that of acyl lactylates, the acyl group of which contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

In addition, mention may also be made of the alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids and their salts as well as the polyoxyalkylenated (C6-24) alkylcarboxylic acids, the (C6-24 alkyl) (C6-24 aryl) acids. ) ether-carboxylic acids, acid (C _6-24) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and mixtures thereof are preferably used, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, amine or aminoalcohol.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants which may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular alkyl (C8-2θ) alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, (C C8-2θ) amido (C6-8 alkyl) betaines or (C-Cs 2θ) amido (C ₆ -

8) sulphobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL®, as described in US Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxy. glycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate of respective structures (A) and (B): Ra-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (Rb) (Rc) (CH ₂ COO-) (A) in which:

Ra represents an alkyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; and

Ra'-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (B ') (B) in which: B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX',

B 'represents - (CH2) z-Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X 'represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH or a hydrogen atom uncomfortable,

Y 'represents -COOH or the group -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H, Ra' represents an alkyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, a group alkyl, especially C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C _{7 group} .

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (Cs-2θ) -betaines alkyls, (C 8-2θ) alkylamido (C 6 -s) alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof. The shampoo composition may also comprise one or more nonionic surfactant (s) different from the oxyethylenated and / or glycerolated nonionic surfactants of the invention. In particular, the surfactant (s) may be chosen from alkylpolyglucosides. The compositions in the form of a conditioner may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants, preferably non-polymeric, non-polymeric meaning without the repetition in its structure of at least one unit resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer. Examples of cationic surfactants that may be mentioned include primary fatty amine salts, secondary or tertiary, quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyl trialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character. The compositions of the first step and / or the second step may be in the form of lotions, gels, creams, foams, shampoos and conditioners.

Between the "first" and "second" stages of the process of the invention, it is possible or not to perform a rinsing. Preferably the first step is followed by rinsing.

The invention will be better understood with the aid of the examples according to the invention which follow. These examples are non-limiting and constitute preferred embodiments of the compositions according to the invention.

EXAMPLES

Comparative Example Example 1: 3 compositions are made:

Composition A = 0.3% ma (MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) in water (qs 100%)

Composition B = 3% ai [N, N-dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] propane sulphonate in water (qs 100%)

Composition C = 0.3% ai of (MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) + 3% ai [N, N-dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] propane sulphonate in water (qs 100%) Method 1 - 1 comparative (wick 1)

At room temperature I g of a composition A is applied to wicks of 2.7 g sensitized. Then, we rinse.

Process 1 -2 according to the invention (wick 2)

At room temperature I g of a composition A is applied to wicks of 2.7 g sensitized. Then, at room temperature, 1 g of the composition B is applied to this same wick. We rinse after two minutes of break. Method 1 -3 comparative (wick 3)

I g of a composition C is applied at room temperature to sensitized 2.7 g locks.

Then, we rinse.

Comparative Method 1 -4 (Wick 4) I g of a composition B was applied at room temperature to sensitized 2.7 g locks.

Then, we rinse.

A control wick is kept without treatment.

A comparative sensory evaluation of the 4 locks is then performed.

The evaluation is carried out by a panel of 5 testers.

On damp hair, the ranking in smooth touch is as follows:

Wick 2> Wick 3> Wick 4> Wick 1> control

Notes

The wick treated by the process according to the invention has a significantly smoother feel

Examples of process according to the invention

Example 2

We make 2 compositions:

composition D = 15.4% m. at. sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP from Cognis) + 2.4% my cocoyl betaine (DEHYTON AB 30 - COGNIS) + 1.5%

(MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) + water (qsp 100%)

composition E: 3% ai [N, N-Dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] propane sulphonate + 1% Starch + 100% water I was applied at room temperature to 1 g of the composition D on sensitized strips of 2.7 g .

Rinsed and then applied at room temperature I g of the composition E on said wicks.

One rinses and then carries out a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is supple and smooth.

Example 3

We make 2 compositions:

composition D = 15.4% ai of sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP of Cognis) + 2.4% ai betaine cocoyl (DEHYTON AB 30 - COGNIS) + 1.5% ma (MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) + water (qs 100%) composition F:

3% ai [N, N-Dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] propane sulfonate

3% cetylstearyl alcohol (LANETTE O OR - COGNIS)

0.5% my cetyl ester (Miraceti - SIO) Qs 100% water

I g of the composition D is applied at room temperature to sensitized 2.7 g locks.

Rinsed and then applied at room temperature I g of the composition F on said locks. One rinses and then carries out a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is supple and smooth.

Example 4

We make 2 compositions:

composition G = 4.9% ai of sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP of Cognis) + 8.7% of my cocamidopropyl betaine (TEGO BETAIN F 50 - GOLDSCHMIDT) + 1.5% of (MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) + water (qs 100%) composition H: 3% my behenyl betaine (INCRONAM B 40 - CRODA) + 1% Starch + Qsp 100% water

I g of composition G is applied at room temperature to sensitized 2.7 g locks. Rinsing is then applied, at room temperature, 1 g of the composition H on said wicks.

Example 5

We make 2 compositions:

composition G = 4.9% ai of sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP of Cognis) + 8.7% of my cocamidopropyl betaine (TEGO BETAIN F 50 - GOLDSCHMIDT) + 1.5% of (MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) + water (qs 100%) composition I:

3% my bethenyl betaine (INCRONAM B 40 - CRODA) - 3% cetylstearyl alcohol (LANETTE O OR -

Cognis)

0.5% my cetyl ester (Miraceti - SIO) Qs 100% water

I g of composition G is applied at room temperature to sensitized 2.7 g locks.

Rinsing is then applied at room temperature I g of the composition I on said wicks.

Example 6 We make 2 compositions:

composition D = 15.4% ai of sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP of Cognis) + 2.4% of my cocoyl betaine (DEHYTON AB 30 - COGNIS) + 1.5% of ( MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) + water (qsp 100%) - composition H: 3% my behenyl betaine (INCRONAM B 40 - CRODA) + 1% Starch + Qsp 100% water

At room temperature, 1 g of a composition D is applied to wicks of 2.7 g sensitized.

Rinsing is then applied, at room temperature, 1 g of the composition H on said wicks.

Example 7

We make 2 compositions:

composition D = 15.4% ai sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP from Cognis) + 2.4% my cocoyl betaine

(DEHYTON AB 30 - COGNIS) + 1.5% ma (MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) + water (qsp 100%)

- composition I:

Cognis)

0.5% my cetyl ester (Miraceti - SIO) Qs 100% water At room temperature, 1 g of a composition D is applied to wicks of 2.7 g sensitized.

Rinsing is then applied at room temperature I g of the composition I on said wicks. One rinses and then carries out a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is supple and smooth.

Example 8

We make 2 compositions:

composition G = 4.9% ai of sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP of Cognis + 8.7% cocamidopropyl betaine (TEGO BETAIN F 50 - GOLDSCHMIDT) + 1.5% of (MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) + water (qs 100%) - composition J: 3% my AMIDOPROPYLBETAINE

SHEA BUTTER (LIPEX SHEA BETAINE AARHUSKARLSHAMN) + 1% Starch + Qsp 100% water

I g of a composition G is applied at room temperature to sensitized 2.7 g locks.

Rinsed and then applied at room temperature I g of the composition J on said wicks.

Example 9

We make 2 compositions composition G = 4.9% ai of sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP of Cognis) + 8.7% of my cocamidopropyl betaine (TEGO BETAIN F 50 - GOLDSCHMIDT) + 1.5% of (MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) + water (qsp 100%)

- composition K:

3% my AMIDOPROPYLBETAINE SHEA BUTTER (LIPEX SHEA BETAINE - AARHUSKARLSHAMN)

3% cetylstearyl alcohol (LANETTE O OR - COGNIS)

0.5% my cetyl ester (Miraceti - SIO) Qs 100% water

Rinsing is then applied at room temperature I g of the composition K on said wicks.

Example 10

We make 2 compositions:

composition D = 15.4% ai of sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP of Cognis) + 2.4% of my cocoyl betaine (DEHYTON AB 30 - COGNIS) + 1.5% of (MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) + water (qsp 100%) composition J: 3% my AMIDOPROPYLBETAINE SHEA BUTTER (LIPEX SHEA BETAINE AARHUSKARLSHAMN) + 1% Starch + Qsp 100% water

Rinsed, then at room temperature I g of the composition J is applied to the wick

Example 11

Two compositions are produced: composition D = 15.4% ai of sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP of Cognis) + 2.4% of my cocoyl betaine (DEHYTON AB 30 - COGNIS) + 1.5% ma de (MERQUAT 100 - NALCO) + water (qsp 100%)

- composition K: - 3% my AMIDOPROPYLBETAINE BUTTER DE

KARITE (LIPEX SHEA BETAINE - AARHUSKARLSHAMN)

3% cetylstearyl alcohol (LANETTE O OR - COGNIS)

0.5% my cetyl ester (Miraceti - SIO) - Qs 100% water

At room temperature, 1 g of a composition D is applied to wicks of 2.7 g sensitized. Rinsed and then applied at room temperature I g of the composition K on the locks.

Claims

1. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers and more particularly hair, characterized in that it comprises at least the two following stages:

"a first step of application to the keratinous fibers of a composition comprising one or more cationic polymers, and then

a second step of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition containing one or more zwitterionic fatty-chain surfactants, the zwitterionic surfactant (s) being such that at least 50% by weight of them have at least one fatty chain having a number of carbon atoms equal to or greater than 14.

2. Process according to claim 1, in which the cationic polymer is chosen from: cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

(I)

formulas in which: k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

R ₇ and R ₈ , independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group. (C ₁ -C ₄ ), or R ₇ and R ₈ may designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R ₇ and R _8, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate, or quaternary diammonium polymers containing recurring units corresponding to formula (III):

R 10 ^ 12

- ^ + -A ₁ - N + - B.,

R ₁₁ XR ₁₃ X

(III) Formula (III) in which: R 1, R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R 13, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or radicals hydroxyalkylaliphatic lower, or Ri ₀ , Rn, R ₁₂ and Ri ₃ , together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, they constitute heterocyclic rings optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or else R ₁₀ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₂ represent a linear or branched C 1 -C ₆ alkyl radical; substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group or -CO-OR ₁₄ -D or -CO-NH-

R ₁₄ -D wherein R ₁₄ is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

At ₁ , Rio and Ri ₂ can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a - (CH ₂ ) n -CO-D-OC- (CH ₂ ) n- group in which n is between 1 and 100 and preferably between 1 and 50, and D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:

-CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

3. The process of claim 1 or 2 wherein the cationic polymer is dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer.

4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the composition applied in the first step of the process according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of cationic polymer (s) relative to the total weight of the composition to be applied.

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the zwitterionic surfactant corresponds to formula (VI):

(VI) wherein:

R 1 is an alkyl or alkenyl chain unsubstituted or substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms;

"m is an integer from 1 to 3; n is 0 or 1;

"R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent an alkyl chain having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms which is unsubstituted or mono-substituted by a hydroxyl group;" R4 represents an alkylene chain comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; carbon, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted or mono-substituted with a hydroxy group;

X is selected from the following groups CO ₂ , SO ₃ , SO 4.

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the zwitterionic surfactant is chosen from: [N, N-dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] propane sulphonate, N, N-dimethyl-N-tetradecyl -N (3-sulfopropyl) ammonium betaine, cetyl propyl hydroxy sultaine, cetylbetaine, behenylbetaine, behenylamidopropylbetaine, oleoamidopropylbetaine, and ricino leamidopropylbetaine.

7. A process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the zwitterionic surfactant is [N, N-dimethyl-1 (3 -palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] propane sulfonate.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition applied in the second stage of the process according to the invention comprises from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of zwitterionic surfactant per relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the compositions applied in the first or second stage of the process according to the invention comprise one or more thickening agents, preferably polymeric and / or nonionic.

10. Method according to the preceding claim wherein the composition applied in the first and / or second step comprises from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight of thickening agents relative to the total weight of the composition.

A process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition applied in the first step and / or the composition applied in the second step of the process contains one or more commonly used cosmetic additive (s) in the art, for example chosen from reducing agents, oxidizing agents, fats, silicones, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, emollients, basifying or acidifying agents, plasticizers, pigments, mineral fillers, clays, colloidal minerals, pearlescent agents, perfumes, peptizers, preservatives, proteins, vitamins, fixing polymers other than the cationic polymers used in the first stage, the agents conditioners other than the cationic polymers used in the first step and other than the zwitterionic surfactants used in the second step.

The process according to any of the preceding claims wherein the composition applied in the first step and / or the composition applied in the second step comprises one or more fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

The method of any of the preceding claims wherein the composition applied in the first step and / or the composition applied in the second step comprises one or more silicones.

The method of any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition applied in the first step and / or the composition applied in the second step comprises one or more additional surfactants.

The method of any of the preceding claims wherein the first step is followed by rinsing.

16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a method of care or conditioning keratin fibers.

17. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a process for direct dyeing or oxidation, shaping, or makeup keratin fibers.