WO2010133803A1 - Dyeing composition comprising a secondary para-phenylenediamine oxidation base and a specific surfactant - Google Patents

Dyeing composition comprising a secondary para-phenylenediamine oxidation base and a specific surfactant Download PDF

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WO2010133803A1
WO2010133803A1 PCT/FR2010/050964 FR2010050964W WO2010133803A1 WO 2010133803 A1 WO2010133803 A1 WO 2010133803A1 FR 2010050964 W FR2010050964 W FR 2010050964W WO 2010133803 A1 WO2010133803 A1 WO 2010133803A1
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alkyl
radical
chosen
composition
formula
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PCT/FR2010/050964
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French (fr)
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Jean-Baptiste Saunier
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from FR0953323A external-priority patent/FR2945732B1/en
Priority claimed from FR0953329A external-priority patent/FR2945735B1/en
Priority claimed from FR0953326A external-priority patent/FR2945733B1/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2010133803A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010133803A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/411Aromatic amines, i.e. where the amino group is directly linked to the aromatic nucleus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/45Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4993Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the subject of the invention is a dyeing composition comprising at least one particular secondary para-phenylenediamine oxidation base and at least one particular surfactant.
  • the invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair, using this composition, as well as devices with several appropriate compartments. It is known to dye keratin fibers and in particular human hair with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases, such as ortho or para-phenylenediamines, ortho or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.
  • oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as than indolic compounds.
  • couplers or color modifiers the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as than indolic compounds.
  • couplers or color modifiers the variety of molecules involved in oxidation bases and couplers, allows to obtain a rich palette of colors.
  • the dyes must also make it possible to cover the white hair, and finally be the least selective possible, that is to say, to obtain the lowest possible color differences throughout the same keratin fiber, which is in general differently sensitized (ie damaged) between its point and its root.
  • oxidation bases of the para-phenylene diamine secondary type of formula (I) below for dyeing keratinous fibers, especially the hair.
  • a base is disclosed in EP1580184 and EP0055386.
  • This base has the drawbacks of leading to insufficiently intense or chromatic and / or too selective staining.
  • the object of the present invention is to obtain a composition for hair dyeing which has improved dyeing properties in terms of intensity or chromaticity, and / or selectivity and / or resistance to external agents.
  • oxidation bases selected from the compound of formula (I) or its addition salts with an acid
  • surfactants chosen from those bearing at least one cationic charge, from carboxylic ether acids or one of their salts, or from mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters.
  • the invention also relates to a dyeing process using this composition.
  • It also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in one of them, the dye composition according to the invention without oxidant, and in another, a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
  • the device comprises a first compartment containing the compound of formula (I) or its salts with an acid and optionally one or more different oxidation bases of the compound of formula (I) or its salts and optionally one or more couplers; a second compartment containing a composition comprising one or more surfactants as defined above and optionally a third compartment containing a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
  • composition of the present invention makes it possible in particular to obtain a keratinous fiber coloring composition which is suitable for use in oxidation dyeing and makes it possible to obtain a coloring with varied shades, intense or chromatic, aesthetic, not very selective and resistant. well to the various aggressions that can undergo the hair such as the shampoos, the sweat and the permanent deformations and the light.
  • the compound of formula (I) may be in the form of addition salts chosen especially from acid addition salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
  • the compound of formula (I) or its salts are generally present each in an amount of between 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6% by weight.
  • the dye composition of the invention may optionally comprise one or more additional oxidation bases conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers, different from the compound of formula (I) or its salts.
  • these additional oxidation bases are chosen from the different para-phenylenediamines of the compound of formula (I) and of its addition salts, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-amines and aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases.
  • para-phenylenediamines there may be mentioned by way of example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl para phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl para phenylenediamine, 4-amino N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino 2- methyl aniline, 4-N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2-
  • para-phenylenediamine para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl para-phenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyl para-phenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro para- phenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -acetylaminoethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.
  • N N'-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) N
  • N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino propanol, N may be mentioned by way of example.
  • para-aminophenols examples include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4- amino 2-methyl phenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4- amino 2-fluoro phenol, 1-hydroxy-4-methylamino-benzene, 2-2'-methylenebis-4-amino phenol and their addition salts with an acid.
  • ortho-aminophenols there may be mentioned by way of example, 2-amino phenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 5-acetamido-2-amino phenol, and their addition salts with an acid.
  • heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned by way of example are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
  • pyridine derivatives mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino 3-amino pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy pyridine, 2- ( ⁇ -methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxy pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts with an acid.
  • pyrimidine derivatives mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, , 4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives such as those mentioned in patent application FR-A-2750048 and among which mention may be made of pyrazolo [1, 5-a] -pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,5-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 2,7-dimethyl pyrazolo
  • addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
  • an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates
  • a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
  • composition comprises one or more additional oxidation bases, that (s) represents (s) more particularly from 0.0005 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, preferably from 0.005 to 8 % in weight.
  • the dye composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers.
  • couplers there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.
  • a coupler there may be mentioned 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 6-chloro-2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 3 amino phenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-o-cresol, 1,3-dihydroxy benzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino-4- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino) 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido 1-dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, 1- ⁇ 3-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedi
  • the coupler (s), if present, generally represent an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, preferably between 0.005% and 6% by weight. weight.
  • the dye composition in accordance with the invention may also contain one or more direct dyes that may be chosen in particular from nitro dyes of the benzene series, azo direct dyes and methine direct dyes. These direct dyes may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature.
  • the direct dye (s), if present, generally represent an amount of between 0.001% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, preferably between 0.01% and 10% by weight.
  • the dye composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants carrying at least one cationic charge. More particularly, these surfactants are chosen from compounds comprising at least one cationic charge and at least one C 12 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl chain optionally bearing at least one ester or amide function.
  • the surfactants used in the composition according to the invention may comprise a cationic charge and no anionic charge, or comprise both a cationic charge and an anionic charge. In the latter case, the surfactants are amphoteric or zwitterionic species.
  • X ' is an anion chosen for example from the group of halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl (C 2 -C 6 ) sulphates, more particularly methylsulphate, phosphates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates, anions derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, and
  • the radicals R 1 to R 3 which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, in dC 4 , or an aryl or alkylaryl radical, the alkyl radical optionally carrying an alkoxy, alkylamide, R 4 group; denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, Ci 6 -C 3 O, preferably Ci 4 - C 22 ; or
  • radicals R 1 and R 2 which are identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, in dC 4 , or a radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, the alkyl radical optionally carrying an alkoxy, alkylamide or hydroxyalkyl group; in dC 4 ;
  • R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, said radical optionally comprising at least one ester or amide function;
  • the cationic surfactant according to the above-mentioned option (1) is a salt (for example chloride) of behenyltrimethylammonium, and according to option (2) a salt (for example chloride) of stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium marketed under the denomination "CERAPHYL 70" by the company VAN DYK.
  • R 5 represents an alkenyl or a C 2 -C 30 alkyl radical
  • R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or C 2 -C 30 alkyl radical
  • R 7 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • X is an anion X especially selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates.
  • R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 denotes methyl and R 3 denotes hydrogen.
  • a product is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the names "REWOQUAT" W 75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG by the company WITCO; (iii) quaternary diammonium salts of formula (IV):
  • R 9 denotes a C 12 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical
  • R 10, Rn, R 12, R 1 3 and R 14, identical or different are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical in C 4 and X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates.
  • Such diammonium quaternary salts include in particular propane dichloride diammonium.
  • R 5 is selected from alkyl, -C 6 hydroxyalkyl, -C 6 dihydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 6; • R 1 6 is selected from the radical R 19 -CO-, an alkyl radical or R 2 o alkenyl
  • R 18 is chosen from the radical R 21 -CO-, a radical R 22 alkyl or alkenyl C 1 -C 6 linear or branched, a hydrogen atom,
  • R 17 , R 19 and R 21 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C 12 -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl radicals;
  • n, p and r are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
  • y is an integer from 1 to 10;
  • R 15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical
  • X and y are equal to 1;
  • Z is 0 or 1
  • R 16 is selected from R 19 -CO-, methyl, ethyl, C 14 -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl - hydrogen;
  • R 17 , R 19 and R 21 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 alkyl or alkenyl radicals;
  • R 18 is chosen from the radical R 21 -CO-, the hydrogen atom. Such compounds are for example marketed under the names
  • the composition comprises, as cationic surfactant (s), one or more cationic surfactants of formula (II), and preferably one or more cationic surfactants of formula (II) corresponding to option (1).
  • amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) surfactant examples include compounds derived from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 and preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • amine derivatives include the products sold under the name Miranol ®, as described in US patents 2,528,378 and US 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxy-glycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate of respective structures (a) and (b):
  • R 3 represents an alkyl group derived from an R 3 -COOH acid present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, R b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X ' represents the group -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH or a hydrogen atom
  • Y' represents -COOH or the group -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H
  • R 3 ' represents an alkyl group of a R a ' -COOH acid present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular Ci 7 and its iso form, a C 7 group unsaturated.
  • the surfactant (s) carrying at least one cationic charge are chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate and methylalkylamidoethylimidazolinium methosulfate (QUATERNIUM).
  • cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride
  • MIRASPEC TAM 40 / M - RHODIA cocamido propyl betaine and cetyl betaine
  • the surfactant (s) carrying at least one cationic filler of the invention are cationic.
  • the dyeing composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more carboxylic ether acids or one of its salts.
  • the carboxylic ether acids or their salts are chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl- or alkenyl- (C 6 -C 24 ) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) aryl ether aryl ether carboxylic acids and their salts; polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl amido ether acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds proposed by KAO under the names AKYPO.
  • the salts are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts such as triethanolamine or monoethanolamine and magnesium salts.
  • the surfactants of the polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acid type are, in particular, those which have the following formula (N '): R 1 - (OC 2 H 4 ) n - OCH 2 COOA in which:
  • R 1 represents a radical or a mixture of linear or branched C 8 -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl radicals, a (C 8 -C 9 ) alkyl phenyl radical, a radical R 2 CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - with R 2 denoting a linear or branched Cn-C 2 - I alkyl or alkenyl radical, and n is an integer or decimal number (average value) which can vary from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
  • A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue. It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (N '), in particular mixtures in which the groups R-
  • the radical R 1 is an alkyl group comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denotes phenyl.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids or their salts are preferably chosen from those of formula (N ') in which R 1 denotes a radical or a mixture of alkyl (C 12 -C 14 ), cocoyl, oleyl radicals; a nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and n ranges from 2 to 20 and preferably 2 to 10.
  • R 1 denotes an alkyl radical (C 1 -C 4 )
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • n varies from 2 to 10.
  • the mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants are chosen from the group formed by mono- or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl chain may optionally be substituted by an additional hydroxy group.
  • the fatty alcohols are preferably of formula R-OH, with R denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group and containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon.
  • the mono- or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols of formula (IM ') are chosen from fatty alcohols -C 2 -C 24 comprising from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, more particularly from oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, oleyl 4 mol of glycerol alcohol, lauryl alcohol 1 5 moles of glycerol.
  • the polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester (s) of the invention are polyoxyethylenated esters of fatty alcohols and sorbitol anhydride.
  • these esters are monoesters. These esters more particularly comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide less than or equal to 30, preferably between 2 and 30, more preferably between 2 and 10, better still between 2 and 6.
  • they have the following structure (IV)
  • w, x, y, z respectively denoting a number between 0 and 20 and such that w + x + y + z is less than or equal to 30, preferably between 2 and 30, more preferably between 2 and 10, better between 2 and 6 (average values).
  • R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally substituted by a hydroxyl radical.
  • the polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester (s) are such that the number of moles of ethylene oxide varies from 2 to 5 (inclusive).
  • polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters of the invention there may be mentioned sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated at 40E or polysorbate 21, sorbitan mono-stearate oxyethylenated at 40E or polysorbate 61, the mono-oleate of oxyethylenated sorbitan at 5OE or polysorbate 81.
  • sorbitan esters are for example sold by the company Uniquema under the name Tween 21, Tween 61 or Tween 81.
  • composition according to the invention has a content of surfactant (s) as described above ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the dye composition, and preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight.
  • the medium which is suitable for dyeing also known as a dyeing medium, generally comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more solvents such as, for example, lower alkanols in dC 4 , such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or glycerol, and polyol ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether.
  • solvent or solvents are generally present in proportions which can be between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and even more preferably between 3 and 30% by weight approximately.
  • the dyeing composition in accordance with the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, nonionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers. or mixtures thereof, inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents.
  • adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair such as anionic, nonionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers. or mixtures thereof, inorganic or organic thickeners, and in
  • the adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the dye composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, and preferably between 5 and 1 1 approximately. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems.
  • acidifying agents mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
  • mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
  • alkalinizing agents for example, ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkali silicates and metasilicates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium hydroxides, potassium or magnesium, the alkaline salts of pyrrolidine carboxylate and the compounds of formula (VI) below:
  • R 3, R b, R c and R d, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or C 4 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more oxidizing agents.
  • the oxidizing agents conventionally used for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers are, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids and oxidase enzymes.
  • the dye composition according to the invention may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels, or in any other form suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers, and especially human hair. It can result from mixing at the time of use of several compositions.
  • a first particular variant it results from the mixture of at least two compositions, one comprising one or more oxidation bases selected from compounds of formula (I) or their addition salts with an acid, optionally one or more different additional oxidation bases of the compound of formula (I) or of its salts, and optionally one or more couplers, a second composition comprising the surfactant (s) as described above and optionally a third composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents such as previously described
  • a second particular variant it results from the mixture of two compositions, one comprising one or more oxidation bases chosen from the compound of formula (I) or its addition salts with an acid, the surfactant (s) as described previously, optionally one or more additional oxidation bases different from the compound of formula (I) or its salts, and optionally one or more couplers, another composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents as described above.
  • composition of the invention is therefore applied to the hair for dyeing keratinous fibers either as such or in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents, for dyeing keratinous fibers.
  • the process of the present invention is a process in which the composition according to the present invention as defined above, either alone or in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents, is applied to the fibers.
  • the color may be revealed at acidic, neutral or alkaline pH
  • the oxidizing agent (s), if present, may be added to the composition of the invention just at the time of use or may be work from an oxidizing composition containing (s), applied simultaneously or sequentially to the composition of the invention.
  • the composition according to the present invention free of oxidizing agent (s) is mixed, preferably at the time of use, with a composition comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, one or more oxidizing agents.
  • the mixture obtained is then applied to the keratinous fibers.
  • the oxidizing agents are those indicated above. Whether with or without oxidizing agents, the pause time of the composition (s) varies from approximately 3 to 50 minutes, preferably from 5 to approximately 30 minutes.
  • the temperature during the application is conventionally between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C.) and 80 ° C., preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C.
  • the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water, optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed with water again and then dried.
  • the oxidizing composition may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair and as defined above.
  • the pH of the oxidizing composition containing the oxidizing agent is such that, after mixing with the dyeing composition, the pH of the resulting composition applied to the keratinous fibers preferably varies between 3 and 12 approximately, and even more preferably between 5 and 1. 1. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used in dyeing keratinous fibers and as defined above.
  • the ready-to-use composition with or without an oxidizing agent, which is finally applied to the keratinous fibers may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels or in any other form suitable for carrying out dyeing keratinous fibers, and in particular human hair.
  • the invention also relates to a multi-compartment device or "kit" of dyeing in which a first compartment contains the dye composition of the present invention defined above without any oxidizing agent and a second compartment contains a composition comprising one or more several oxidizing agents.
  • a second device is constituted by a first compartment containing a composition comprising one or more oxidation bases selected from the compound of formula (I) or its addition salts with an acid, optionally one or more additional oxidation bases other than compound of formula (I) or its salts and optionally one or more couplers and a second compartment containing a composition comprising the surfactant or surfactants as previously described.
  • a third device may optionally comprise the two compartments of the second device plus a third compartment containing a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
  • These devices may be equipped with means for delivering the desired product onto the hair, such as the devices described in patent FR-2 586 913.
  • the following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. .
  • composition was diluted extemporaneously with 1.5 times its weight in hydrogen peroxide at 20 volumes.
  • the mixture was applied to 90% white natural gray hair at the rate of 10 g per 1 g of hair for 30 minutes.
  • the hair was then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried.
  • the hair color was evaluated visually.
  • composition was diluted extemporaneously with 1.5 times its weight in hydrogen peroxide at 20 volumes.
  • the mixture was applied to 90% white natural gray hair at the rate of 10 g per 1 g of hair for 30 minutes at room temperature.
  • the hair was then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried.
  • the hair color was evaluated visually.
  • composition was diluted extemporaneously with 1.5 times its weight in hydrogen peroxide at 25 volumes and whose pH is 3.
  • the mixture thus produced was applied to natural gray hair at 90% white, at the rate of 10 g per 1 g of hair for 30 minutes.
  • the hair was then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried.
  • Composition 1 Golden Brown Chestnut
  • composition was diluted extemporaneously with 1.5 times its weight in hydrogen peroxide at 20 volumes and whose pH is 3.
  • the mixture thus produced was applied to natural gray hair at 90% white, at the rate of 10 g per 1 g of hair for 30 minutes.
  • the hair was then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried.
  • the hair color was evaluated visually.

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for coloring keratin fibers, comprising, in a suitable dyeing medium: - one or more oxidation bases selected from the compound of formula (I) and the acid addition salts thereof; - one or more surfactants selected from the ones carrying at least one cationic charge, carboxylic ether acids or a salt thereof, and monoglycerol or polyglycerol nonionic surfactants and polyoxyethylene sorbitan esters. The invention also relates to a dyeing method in which said composition is used and in which the aforementioned dyeing composition is applied to the fibers with or without an oxidizing agent. The invention further relates to devices including a plurality of compartments.

Description

COMPOSITION TINCTORIALE COMPRENANT UNE BASE D'OXYDATION PARA- PHENYLENE DIAMINE SECONDAIRE ET UN TENSIOACTIF PARTICULIER TINCTORIAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARA-PHENYLENE DIAMINE SECONDARY OXIDATION BASE AND A PARTICULAR SURFACTANT
L'invention a pour objet une composition tinctoriale comprenant au moins une base d'oxydation para-phénylènediamine secondaire particulière et au moins un tensioactif particulier. L'invention a aussi pour objet un procédé de teinture de fibres kératiniques, en particulier humaines telles que les cheveux, mettant en œuvre cette composition, ainsi que des dispositifs à plusieurs compartiments appropriés. II est connu de teindre les fibres kératiniques et en particulier les cheveux humains avec des compositions tinctoriales contenant des précurseurs de colorant d'oxydation, appelés généralement bases d'oxydation, tels que des ortho ou paraphénylènediamines, des ortho ou paraaminophénols et des composés hétérocycliques. Ces bases d'oxydation sont des composés incolores ou faiblement colorés qui, associés à des produits oxydants, peuvent donner naissance par un processus de condensation oxydative à des composés colorés.The subject of the invention is a dyeing composition comprising at least one particular secondary para-phenylenediamine oxidation base and at least one particular surfactant. The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair, using this composition, as well as devices with several appropriate compartments. It is known to dye keratin fibers and in particular human hair with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases, such as ortho or para-phenylenediamines, ortho or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.
On sait également que l'on peut faire varier les nuances obtenues avec ces bases d'oxydation en les associant à des coupleurs ou modificateurs de coloration, ces derniers étant choisis notamment parmi les métadiamines aromatiques, les métaaminophénols, les métadiphénols et certains composés hétérocycliques tels que des composés indoliques. La variété des molécules mises en jeu au niveau des bases d'oxydation et des coupleurs, permet l'obtention d'une riche palette de couleurs.It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as than indolic compounds. The variety of molecules involved in oxidation bases and couplers, allows to obtain a rich palette of colors.
La coloration dite "permanente" obtenue grâce à ces colorants d'oxydation, doit par ailleurs satisfaire un certain nombre d'exigences. Ainsi, elle doit être sans inconvénient sur le plan toxicologique, elle doit permettre d'obtenir des nuances dans l'intensité souhaitée et présenter une bonne tenue face aux agents extérieurs tels que la lumière, les intempéries, le lavage, les ondulations permanentes, la transpiration et les frottements.The so-called "permanent" coloration obtained with these oxidation dyes must also meet a certain number of requirements. Thus, it must be harmless from the toxicological point of view, it must make it possible to obtain shades in the desired intensity and to have good resistance to external agents such as light, bad weather, washing, permanent undulations, sweating and friction.
Les colorants doivent également permettre de couvrir les cheveux blancs, et être enfin les moins sélectifs possibles, c'est-à-dire permettre d'obtenir des écarts de coloration les plus faibles possibles tout au long d'une même fibre kératinique, qui est en général différemment sensibilisée (i.e. abîmée) entre sa pointe et sa racine.The dyes must also make it possible to cover the white hair, and finally be the least selective possible, that is to say, to obtain the lowest possible color differences throughout the same keratin fiber, which is in general differently sensitized (ie damaged) between its point and its root.
Il est déjà connu d'utiliser des bases d'oxydation du type para-phénylène diamine secondaire de formule (I) ci-dessous pour la coloration des fibres kératiniques, notamment les cheveux. En particulier, une telle base est divulguée dans les documents EP1580184 et EP0055386. Cette base présente comme inconvénients de conduire à des colorations insuffisamment intenses ou chromatiques et/ou trop sélectives. Le but de la présente invention est d'obtenir une composition pour la coloration des cheveux qui présente des propriétés tinctoriales améliorées en termes d'intensité ou de chromaticité, et/ou de sélectivité et/ou de résistance aux agents extérieurs.It is already known to use oxidation bases of the para-phenylene diamine secondary type of formula (I) below for dyeing keratinous fibers, especially the hair. In particular, such a base is disclosed in EP1580184 and EP0055386. This base has the drawbacks of leading to insufficiently intense or chromatic and / or too selective staining. The object of the present invention is to obtain a composition for hair dyeing which has improved dyeing properties in terms of intensity or chromaticity, and / or selectivity and / or resistance to external agents.
Ce but est atteint avec la présente invention qui a pour objet une composition de coloration des fibres kératiniques comprenant, dans un milieu de teinture approprié,This object is achieved with the present invention which relates to a coloring composition of keratinous fibers comprising, in an appropriate dyeing medium,
- une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation choisies parmi le composé de formule (I) ou ses sels d'addition avec un acide,one or more oxidation bases selected from the compound of formula (I) or its addition salts with an acid,
Figure imgf000003_0001
et - un ou plusieurs tensioactifs choisis parmi ceux portant au moins une charge cationique, parmi les acides éther carboxyliques ou l'un de leurs sels, ou parmi les tensioactifs non ioniques mono- ou poly-glycérolés et les esters de sorbitane polyoxyéthylénés.
Figure imgf000003_0001
and one or more surfactants chosen from those bearing at least one cationic charge, from carboxylic ether acids or one of their salts, or from mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters.
L'invention a aussi pour objet un procédé de teinture mettant en œuvre cette composition.The invention also relates to a dyeing process using this composition.
Elle a également pour objet un dispositif à plusieurs compartiments comprenant dans l'un d'entre eux, la composition tinctoriale selon l'invention sans oxydant, et dans un autre, une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs agents oxydants.It also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in one of them, the dye composition according to the invention without oxidant, and in another, a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
Selon une autre variante de l'invention, le dispositif comprend un premier compartiment renfermant le composé de formule (I) ou de ses sels avec un acide et éventuellement une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation différentes du composé de formule (I) ou de ses sels et éventuellement un ou plusieurs coupleurs ; un deuxième compartiment renfermant une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs tensioactifs tels que définis précédemment et éventuellement un troisième compartiment renfermant une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs agents oxydants.According to another variant of the invention, the device comprises a first compartment containing the compound of formula (I) or its salts with an acid and optionally one or more different oxidation bases of the compound of formula (I) or its salts and optionally one or more couplers; a second compartment containing a composition comprising one or more surfactants as defined above and optionally a third compartment containing a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
La composition de la présente invention permet en particulier d'obtenir une composition de coloration de fibres kératiniques qui convienne pour une utilisation en coloration d'oxydation et permettent d'obtenir une coloration aux nuances variées, intenses ou chromatiques, esthétiques, peu sélectives et résistant bien aux diverses agressions que peuvent subir les cheveux tels que les shampooings, la sueur et les déformations permanentes et la lumière.The composition of the present invention makes it possible in particular to obtain a keratinous fiber coloring composition which is suitable for use in oxidation dyeing and makes it possible to obtain a coloring with varied shades, intense or chromatic, aesthetic, not very selective and resistant. well to the various aggressions that can undergo the hair such as the shampoos, the sweat and the permanent deformations and the light.
Il est à noter que dans ce qui va suivre, et à moins d'une autre indication, les bornes d'un domaine de valeurs sont comprises dans ce domaine. Le composé de formule (I) peut être sous forme de sels d'addition notamment choisis parmi les sels d'addition avec un acide tels que les chlorhydrates, les bromhydrates, les sulfates, les citrates, les succinates, les tartrates, les lactates, les tosylates, les benzènesulfonates, les phosphates et les acétates. Le composé de formule (I) ou ses sels sont en général présents chacun en quantité comprise entre 0,001 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition tinctoriale, de préférence entre 0,005 et 6 % en poids.It should be noted that in what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this area. The compound of formula (I) may be in the form of addition salts chosen especially from acid addition salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates. The compound of formula (I) or its salts are generally present each in an amount of between 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6% by weight.
La composition tinctoriale de l'invention peut éventuellement comprendre une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation additionnelles conventionnellement utilisées pour la teinture de fibres kératiniques, différentes du composé de formule (I) ou de ses sels.The dye composition of the invention may optionally comprise one or more additional oxidation bases conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers, different from the compound of formula (I) or its salts.
A titre d'exemple, ces bases d'oxydation additionnelles sont choisies parmi les para- phénylènediamines différentes du composé de formule (I) et de ses sels d'addition, les bis- phénylalkylènediamines, les para-aminophénols, les bis-para-aminophénols, les ortho- aminophénols, les bases hétérocycliques. Parmi les para-phénylènediamines, on peut citer à titre d'exemple, la para- phénylènediamine, la para-toluènediamine, la 2-chloro para-phénylènediamine, la 2,3- diméthyl para-phénylènediamine, la 2,6-diméthyl para-phénylènediamine, la 2,6-diéthyl para-phénylènediamine, la 2,5-diméthyl para-phénylènediamine, la N,N-diméthyl para- phénylènediamine, la N,N-diéthyl para-phénylènediamine, la N,N-dipropyl para- phénylènediamine, la 4-amino N,N-diéthyl 3-méthyl aniline, la N,N-bis-(β-hydroxyéthyl) para- phénylènediamine, la 4-N,N-bis-(β-hydroxyéthyl)amino 2-méthyl aniline, la 4-N,N-bis-(β-hydroxyéthyl)amino 2-chloro aniline, la 2-β-hydroxyéthyl para- phénylènediamine, la 2-fluoro para-phénylènediamine, la 2-isopropyl para- phénylènediamine, la N-(β-hydroxypropyl) para-phénylènediamine, la 2-hydroxyméthyl para- phénylènediamine, la N,N-diméthyl 3-méthyl para-phénylènediamine, la N,N-(éthyl, β- hydroxyéthyl) para-phénylènediamine, la N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl) para-phénylènediamine, la N-(4'-aminophényl) para-phénylènediamine, la N-phényl para-phénylènediamine, la 2-β-hydroxyéthyloxy para-phénylènediamine, la 2-β-acétylaminoéthyloxy para- phénylènediamine, la N-(β-méthoxyéthyl) para-phénylène-diamine, la 4- aminophénylpyrrolidine, la 2-thiényl para-phénylènediamine, le 2-β hydroxyéthylamino 5- amino toluène, la 3-hydroxy 1-(4'-aminophényl)pyrrolidine et leurs sels d'addition avec un acide.By way of example, these additional oxidation bases are chosen from the different para-phenylenediamines of the compound of formula (I) and of its addition salts, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-amines and aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases. Among the para-phenylenediamines, there may be mentioned by way of example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl para phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl para phenylenediamine, 4-amino N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino 2- methyl aniline, 4-N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-amino-toluene, 3-hydroxy-1- (4 ') aminophenyl) pyrrolidine and their addition salts with an acid.
Parmi les para-phénylènediamines citées ci-dessus, la para-phénylènediamine, la para- toluènediamine, la 2-isopropyl para-phénylènediamine, la 2-β-hydroxyéthyl para- phénylènediamine, la 2-β-hydroxyéthyloxy para-phénylène-diamine, la 2,6-diméthyl para- phénylènediamine, la 2,6-diéthyl para-phénylènediamine, la 2,3-diméthyl para- phénylènediamine, la N,N-bis-(β-hydroxyéthyl) para-phénylènediamine, la 2-chloro para- phénylènediamine, la 2-β-acétylaminoéthyloxy para-phénylènediamine, et leurs sels d'addition avec un acide sont particulièrement préférées.Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro para- phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.
Parmi les bis-phénylalkylènediamines, on peut citer à titre d'exemple, le N,N'-bis-(β- hydroxyéthyl) N,N'-bis-(4'-aminophényl) 1 ,3-diamino propanol, la N,N'-bis-(β-hydroxyéthyl) N,N'-bis-(4'-aminophényl) éthylènediamine, la N,N'-bis-(4-aminophényl) tétraméthylènediamine, la N,N'-bis-(β-hydroxyéthyl) N,N'-bis-(4-aminophényl) tétraméthylènediamine, la N,N'-bis-(4-méthyl-aminophényl) tétraméthylènediamine, la N, N'- bis-(éthyl) N,N'-bis-(4'-amino, 3'-méthylphényl) éthylènediamine, le 1 ,8-bis-(2,5-diamino phénoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, et leurs sels d'addition avec un acide. Parmi les para-aminophénols, on peut citer à titre d'exemple, le para-aminophénol, le 4- amino 3-méthyl phénol, le 4-amino 3-fluoro phénol, le 4-amino 3-hydroxyméthyl phénol, le 4- amino 2-méthyl phénol, le 4-amino 2-hydroxyméthyl phénol, le 4-amino 2-méthoxyméthyl phénol, le 4-amino 2-aminométhyl phénol, le 4-amino 2-(β-hydroxyéthyl aminométhyl) phénol, le 4-amino 2-fluoro phénol, le 1-hydroxy-4-methylamino-benzene, le 2-2'- methylenebis-4-amino phénol et leurs sels d'addition avec un acide.Among the bis-phenylalkylenediamines, N, N'-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino propanol, N, may be mentioned by way of example. , N'-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- ( β-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) N, N ' -bis- (4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diamino phenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts with an acid. Examples of para-aminophenols include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4- amino 2-methyl phenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4- amino 2-fluoro phenol, 1-hydroxy-4-methylamino-benzene, 2-2'-methylenebis-4-amino phenol and their addition salts with an acid.
Parmi les ortho-aminophénols, on peut citer à titre d'exemple, le 2-amino phénol, le 2- amino 5-méthyl phénol, le 2-amino 6-méthyl phénol, le 5-acétamido 2-amino phénol, et leurs sels d'addition avec un acide.Among the ortho-aminophenols, there may be mentioned by way of example, 2-amino phenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 5-acetamido-2-amino phenol, and their addition salts with an acid.
Parmi les bases hétérocycliques, on peut citer à titre d'exemple, les dérivés pyridiniques, les dérivés pyrimidiniques et les dérivés pyrazoliques.Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned by way of example are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
Parmi les dérivés pyridiniques, on peut citer les composés décrits par exemple dans les brevets GB 1 026 978 et GB 1 153 196, comme la 2,5-diamino pyridine, la 2-(4- méthoxyphényl)amino 3-amino pyridine, la 2,3-diamino 6-méthoxy pyridine, la 2-(β- méthoxyéthyl)amino 3-amino 6-méthoxy pyridine, la 3,4-diamino pyridine, et leurs sels d'addition avec un acide.Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino 3-amino pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy pyridine, 2- (β-methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxy pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts with an acid.
Parmi les dérivés pyrimidiniques, on peut citer les composés décrits par exemple dans les brevets DE 2359399 ; JP 88-169571 ; JP 05-63124 ; EP 0770375 ou demande de brevet WO 96/15765 comme la 2,4,5, 6-tétra-aminopyrimidine, la 4-hydroxy 2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, la 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, la 2,4-dihydroxy 5,6- diaminopyrimidine, la 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, et les dérivés pyrazolo-pyrimidiniques tels ceux mentionnés dans la demande de brevet FR-A-2750048 et parmi lesquels on peut citer la pyrazolo-[1 ,5-a]-pyrimidine-3,7-diamine ; la 2,5-diméthyl pyrazolo-[1 ,5-a]-pyrimidine-3,7- diamine ; la pyrazolo-[1 ,5-a]-pyrimidine-3,5-diamine ; la 2,7-diméthyl pyrazolo-[1 ,5-a]- pyrimidine-3,5-diamine ; le 3-amino pyrazolo-[1 ,5-a]-pyrimidin-7-ol ; le 3-amino pyrazolo-[1 ,5- a]-pyrimidin-5-ol ; le 2-(3-amino pyrazolo-[1 ,5-a]-pyrimidin-7-ylamino)-éthanol, le 2-(7-amino pyrazolo-[1 ,5-a]-pyrimidin-3-ylamino)-éthanol, le 2-[(3-amino-pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrimidin-7-yl)- (2-hydroxy-éthyl)-amino]-éthanol, le 2-[(7-amino-pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrimidin-3-yl)-(2-hydroxy- éthyl)-amino]-éthanol, la 5,6-diméthyl pyrazolo-[1 ,5-a]-pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, la 2,6-diméthyl pyrazolo-[1 ,5-a]-pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, la 2, 5, N 7, N 7-tetraméthyl pyrazolo- [1 ,5-a]-pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, la 3-amino-5-méthyl-7-imidazolylpropylamino pyrazolo-[1 ,5- a]-pyrimidine et leurs sels d'addition avec un acide et leurs formes tautomères, lorsqu'il existe un équilibre tautomérique. Parmi les dérivés pyrazoliques, on peut citer les composés décrits dans les brevets DEAmong the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, , 4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives such as those mentioned in patent application FR-A-2750048 and among which mention may be made of pyrazolo [1, 5-a] -pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,5-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 2,7-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol; 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol; 2- (3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol, 2- (7-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) - ethanol, 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 2 - [(7-amino-pyrazolo [ 1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 5,6-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, the 2,6-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,5-N, 7-N-tetramethyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7 -diamine, 3-amino-5-methyl-7-imidazolylpropylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine and their addition salts with an acid and their tautomeric forms, when tautomeric equilibrium exists. Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described in the DE patents
3843892, DE 4133957 et demandes de brevet WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 et DE 195 43 988 comme le 4,5-diamino 1-méthyl pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino 1-(β- hydroxyéthyl) pyrazole, le 3,4-diamino pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino 1-(4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino 1 ,3-diméthyl pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino 3-méthyl 1-phényl pyrazole, le 4,5- diamino 1-méthyl 3-phényl pyrazole, le 4-amino 1 ,3-diméthyl 5-hydrazino pyrazole, le 1-benzyl 4,5-diamino 3-méthyl pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino 3-tert-butyl 1-méthyl pyrazole, le 4,5- diamino 1-tert-butyl 3-méthyl pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino i-(β-hydroxyéthyl) 3-méthyl pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino 1-éthyl 3-méthyl pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino 1-éthyl 3-(4'-méthoxyphényl) pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino 1-éthyl 3-hydroxyméthyl pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino 3-hydroxyméthyl 1-méthyl pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino 3-hydroxyméthyl 1-isopropyl pyrazole, le 4,5-diamino 3- méthyl 1-isopropyl pyrazole, le 4-amino 5-(2'-aminoéthyl)amino 1 ,3-diméthyl pyrazole, le 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, le 1-méthyl 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, le 3,5-diamino 1-méthyl 4- méthylamino pyrazole, le 3,5-diamino 4-(β-hydroxyéthyl)amino 1-méthyl pyrazole, et leurs sels d'addition avec un acide. On peut aussi citer les diaminopyrazolinones décrites dans la demande de brevet3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 such as 4,5-diamino-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino-pyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1- (β-hydroxyethyl) 3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4, 5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino-5- (2'-aminoethyl) ) amino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 1-methyl 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino 1-methyl pyrazole, and their addition salts with an acid. There may also be mentioned diaminopyrazolinones described in the patent application
FR2886137 et en particulier la 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazol-1-one et ses sels.FR2886137 and in particular 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazol-1-one and its salts.
D'une manière générale, les sels d'addition des bases d'oxydation et des coupleurs utilisables dans le cadre de l'invention sont notamment choisis parmi les sels d'addition avec un acide tels que les chlorhydrates, les bromhydrates, les sulfates, les citrates, les succinates, les tartrates, les lactates, les tosylates, les benzènesulfonates, les phosphates et les acétates et les sels d'addition avec une base telles que la soude, la potasse, l'ammoniaque, les aminés ou les alcanolamines.In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
Lorsque la composition comprend une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation additionnelles, celle(s)-ci représente(nt) plus particulièrement de 0,0005 à 12 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition tinctoriales, de préférence de 0,005 à 8 % en poids.When the composition comprises one or more additional oxidation bases, that (s) represents (s) more particularly from 0.0005 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, preferably from 0.005 to 8 % in weight.
La composition tinctoriale selon l'invention peut également, éventuellement, comprendre un ou plusieurs coupleurs conventionnellement utilisés pour la teinture des fibres kératiniques. Parmi ces coupleurs, on peut notamment citer les méta-phénylènediamines, les méta-aminophénols, les méta-diphénols, les coupleurs naphtaléniques, les coupleurs hétérocycliques et leurs sels d'addition.The dye composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers. Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.
A titre d'exemple de coupleur, on peut citer le 2-méthyl 5-aminophénol, le 5-N-(β- hydroxyéthyl)amino 2-méthyl phénol, le 6-chloro-2-méthyl-5-aminophénol, le 3-amino phénol, le 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, le 5-amino-4-chloro-o-cresol, le 1 ,3-dihydroxy benzène, le 1 ,3-dihydroxy 2-méthyl benzène, le 4-chloro 1 ,3-dihydroxy benzène, le 2,4- diamino i-(β-hydroxyéthyloxy) benzène, le 2-amino 4-(β-hydroxyéthylamino) 1- méthoxybenzène, le 1 ,3-diamino benzène, le 1 ,3-bis-(2,4-diaminophénoxy) propane, la 3- uréido aniline, le 3-uréido 1-diméthylamino benzène, le sésamol, le 1-β-hydroxyéthylamino- 3,4-méthylènedioxybenzène, l'α-naphtol, le 2 méthyl-1-naphtol, le 1 ,5-dihydroxy naphtalene, le 2,7-naphthalenediol, le 1-acetoxy-2-methylnaphthalene, le 6-hydroxy indole, le 4-hydroxy indole, le 4-hydroxy N-méthyl indole, la 2-amino-3-hydroxy pyridine, la 6- hydroxy benzomorpholine la 3,5-diamino-2,6-diméthoxypyridine, les 2,6-dihydroxy-3-4- dimethyl pyridine, le 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, le 1-N-(β- hydroxyéthyl)amino-3,4-méthylène dioxybenzène, le 2,6-bis-(β-hydroxyéthylamino)toluène, le 3-methyl-1-phenyl-5-pyrazolone et leurs sels d'addition avec un acide.By way of example of a coupler, there may be mentioned 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 6-chloro-2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 3 amino phenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-o-cresol, 1,3-dihydroxy benzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino-4- (β-hydroxyethylamino) 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido 1-dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, 1-β 3-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxy naphthalene, 2,7-naphthalenediol, 1-acetoxy-2-methylnaphthalene, 6- hydroxy indole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6 dihydroxy-3-4-dimethylpyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 1-N- (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylene dioxybenzene, 2,6-bis- ( β-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-5-pyrazolone and their addition salts with an acid.
Dans la composition de la présente invention, le ou les coupleurs, s'ils sont présents, représentent en général une quantité comprise entre 0,001 et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition tinctoriale, de préférence entre 0,005 et 6% en poids. La composition tinctoriale conforme à l'invention peut en outre contenir un ou plusieurs colorants directs pouvant notamment être choisis parmi les colorants nitrés de la série benzénique, les colorants directs azoïques, les colorants directs méthiniques. Ces colorants directs peuvent être de nature non ionique, anionique ou cationique.In the composition of the present invention, the coupler (s), if present, generally represent an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, preferably between 0.005% and 6% by weight. weight. The dye composition in accordance with the invention may also contain one or more direct dyes that may be chosen in particular from nitro dyes of the benzene series, azo direct dyes and methine direct dyes. These direct dyes may be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature.
Dans la composition de la présente invention, le ou les colorants directs, s'ils sont présents, représentent en général une quantité comprise entre 0,001 et 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition tinctoriale, de préférence entre 0,01 et 10% en poids.In the composition of the present invention, the direct dye (s), if present, generally represent an amount of between 0.001% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, preferably between 0.01% and 10% by weight.
Comme indiqué précédemment, la composition tinctoriale selon l'invention peut comprendre un ou plusieurs tensioactifs portant au moins une charge cationique. Plus particulièrement, ces tensioactifs sont choisis parmi les composés comprenant au moins une charge cationique et au moins une chaîne alkyle ou alcényle, en C12-C30 portant éventuellement au moins une fonction ester ou amide.As indicated above, the dye composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants carrying at least one cationic charge. More particularly, these surfactants are chosen from compounds comprising at least one cationic charge and at least one C 12 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl chain optionally bearing at least one ester or amide function.
Ainsi les tensioactifs entrant dans la composition selon l'invention peuvent comprendre une charge cationique et pas de charge anionique, ou bien comprendre à la fois une charge cationique et une charge anionique. Dans ce dernier cas, les tensioactifs sont des espèces amphotères ou zwitterioniques.Thus the surfactants used in the composition according to the invention may comprise a cationic charge and no anionic charge, or comprise both a cationic charge and an anionic charge. In the latter case, the surfactants are amphoteric or zwitterionic species.
A titre d'exemples de tensioactifs cationiques convenables, on peut mentionner : (i) les sels d'ammonium quaternaires de formule (II) suivante :As examples of suitable cationic surfactants, mention may be made of: (i) the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II) below:
Figure imgf000007_0001
dans laquelle
Figure imgf000007_0001
in which
X' est un anion choisi par exemple dans le groupe des halogénures (chlorure, bromure ou iodure) ou alkyl(C2-C6)sulfates plus particulièrement méthylsulfate, des phosphates, des alkyl-ou-alkylarylsulfonates, des anions dérivés d'acide organique tel que l'acétate ou le lactate, etX ' is an anion chosen for example from the group of halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl (C 2 -C 6 ) sulphates, more particularly methylsulphate, phosphates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates, anions derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, and
(1 ) les radicaux Ri à R3, identiques ou différents, représentent un radical aliphatique, linéaire ou ramifié, en d-C4, ou un radical aryle ou alkylaryle, le radical alkyle étant éventuellement porteur d'un groupement alcoxy, alkylamide, R4 désigne un radical alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, en Ci6-C3O, de préférence en Ci4- C22 ; ou(1) the radicals R 1 to R 3 , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, in dC 4 , or an aryl or alkylaryl radical, the alkyl radical optionally carrying an alkoxy, alkylamide, R 4 group; denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, Ci 6 -C 3 O, preferably Ci 4 - C 22 ; or
(2) les radicaux Ri et R2, identiques ou différents, représentent un radical aliphatique, linéaire ou ramifié, en d-C4, ou un radical que aryle ou alkylaryle, le radical alkyle étant éventuellement porteur d'un groupement alcoxy, alkylamide ou hydroxyalkyle, en d-C4 ;(2) the radicals R 1 and R 2 , which are identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, in dC 4 , or a radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, the alkyl radical optionally carrying an alkoxy, alkylamide or hydroxyalkyl group; in dC 4 ;
R3 et R4, identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle ou alcényle, linéaire ou ramifié, en Ci2-C30, ledit radical comprenant éventuellement au moins une fonction ester ou amide ;R 3 and R 4 , which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, said radical optionally comprising at least one ester or amide function;
Avantageusement, le tensioactif cationique selon l'option (1 ) précitée est un sel (par exemple chlorure) de béhényl triméthyl ammonium, et selon l'option (2) un sel (par exemple chlorure) de stéaramidopropyl diméthyl (myristylacétate) ammonium commercialisé sous la dénomination «CERAPHYL 70» par la société VAN DYK.Advantageously, the cationic surfactant according to the above-mentioned option (1) is a salt (for example chloride) of behenyltrimethylammonium, and according to option (2) a salt (for example chloride) of stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium marketed under the denomination "CERAPHYL 70" by the company VAN DYK.
(ii) les sels d'ammonium quaternaire de l'imidazolinium de formule (III) suivante :(ii) the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazolinium of formula (III) below:
Figure imgf000008_0001
dans laquelle
Figure imgf000008_0001
in which
R5 représente un radical alcényle ou alkyle en Ci2-C30,R 5 represents an alkenyl or a C 2 -C 30 alkyl radical,
R6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC4 ou un radical alcényle ou alkyle en Ci2-C30,R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or C 2 -C 30 alkyl radical,
R7 représente un radical alkyle en CrC4, R8 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC4,R 7 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical,
X est un anion X notamment choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-ou-alkylarylsulfonates.X is an anion X especially selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates.
De préférence, R5 et R6 désignent un mélange de radicaux alcényle ou alkyle comportant de 12 à 21 atomes de carbone par exemple dérivés des acides gras du suif, R7 désigne méthyle, R3 désigne hydrogène. Un tel produit est par exemple le Quaternium- 27(CTFA 1997) ou le Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997) commercialisés sous les dénominations "REWOQUAT" W 75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG par la société WITCO; (iii) les sels de diammonium quaternaire de formule (IV) :Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 denotes methyl and R 3 denotes hydrogen. Such a product is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the names "REWOQUAT" W 75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG by the company WITCO; (iii) quaternary diammonium salts of formula (IV):
2X
Figure imgf000008_0002
(IV) dans laquelle
2X
Figure imgf000008_0002
(IV) in which
R9 désigne un radical alkyle ou alcényle en C12-C30,R 9 denotes a C 12 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
R10, Rn, R12, R13 et R14, identiques ou différents sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en CrC4, et X est un anion notamment choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, acétates, phosphates, nitrates et méthylsulfates.R 10, Rn, R 12, R 1 3 and R 14, identical or different are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical in C 4 and X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates.
De tels sels de diammonium quaternaire comprennent notamment le dichlorure de propanesuif diammonium.Such diammonium quaternary salts include in particular propane dichloride diammonium.
(iv) les sels d'ammonium quaternaire contenant au moins une fonction ester de formule (V) suivante :(iv) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of formula (V) below:
( ÇrH2rO )z O(G r H 2r O) z O
R17 - C - ( O CnH2n )y N - ( C. H2p O )χ — R16 XR 17 - C - (OC n H 2n) y N - (C H 2p O) χ - R 16 X
Ri5 (V) dans laquelle : R15 (V) in which:
• Ri5 est choisi parmi les radicaux alkyle en CrC6, hydroxyalkyle en CrC6, dihydroxyalkyle en C2-C6 ; • R16 est choisi parmi le radical R19-CO-, un radical R2o alkyle ou alcényle en• R 5 is selected from alkyl, -C 6 hydroxyalkyl, -C 6 dihydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 6; • R 1 6 is selected from the radical R 19 -CO-, an alkyl radical or R 2 o alkenyl
C1-C22 linéaire ou ramifié, un atome d'hydrogène,C 1 -C 22 linear or branched, a hydrogen atom,
• R18 est choisi parmi le radical R21-CO-, un radical R22 alkyle ou alcényle en C1-C6 linéaires ou ramifiés, un atome d'hydrogène,R 18 is chosen from the radical R 21 -CO-, a radical R 22 alkyl or alkenyl C 1 -C 6 linear or branched, a hydrogen atom,
• R17, R19 et R21, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux alkyle ou alcényle en C12-C22, linéaires ou ramifiés ;R 17 , R 19 and R 21 , which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C 12 -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl radicals;
• n, p et r, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 2 à 6 ;• n, p and r, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
• y est un entier valant de 1 à 10 ;• y is an integer from 1 to 10;
• x et z, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 0 à 10 ;• x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10;
• X' est un anion simple ou complexe, organique ou inorganique. On utilise plus particulièrement les sels d'ammonium de formule (V) dans laquelle :• X ' is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic. Ammonium salts of formula (V) in which:
• R15 désigne un radical méthyle ou éthyle,R 15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,
• x et y sont égaux à 1 ;X and y are equal to 1;
• z est égal à 0 ou 1 ;Z is 0 or 1;
• n, p et r sont égaux à 2 ; R16 est choisi parmi le radical R19-CO-, les radicaux méthyle, éthyle, alkyle ou alcényle en C14-C22 - l'atome d'hydrogène ;• n, p and r are equal to 2; R 16 is selected from R 19 -CO-, methyl, ethyl, C 14 -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl - hydrogen;
• R17, R19 et R21, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux alkyle ou alcényle en C7-C21, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés ;R 17 , R 19 and R 21 , which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 alkyl or alkenyl radicals;
• R18 est choisi parmi le radical R21-CO-, l'atome d'hydrogène. De tels composés sont par exemple commercialisés sous les dénominationsR 18 is chosen from the radical R 21 -CO-, the hydrogen atom. Such compounds are for example marketed under the names
DEHYQUART par la société COGNIS, STEPANQUAT par la société STEPAN, NOXAMIUM par la société CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 par la société REWO-WITCO. Conformément à un mode de réalisation particulièrement avantageux de l'invention, la composition comprend, à titre de tensioactif(s) cationique(s), un ou plusieurs tensioactifs cationiques de formule (II), et de préférence un ou plusieurs tensioactifs cationiques de formule (II) correspondant à l'option (1 ). A titre d'exemples de tensioactif(s) amphotère(s) ou zwitterionique(s), on peut citer les composés dérivés d'aminés aliphatiques secondaires ou tertiaires, dans lesquels le groupe aliphatique est une chaîne linéaire ou ramifiée comportant de 8 à 22, et de préférence de 10 à 24, atomes de carbone et contenant au moins un groupe anionique tel que, par exemple, un groupe carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate ou phosphonate. On peut citer en particulier les alkyl(C8_2o)bétaïnes, les sulfobétaïnes, les (alkyl en C8- DEHYQUART by COGNIS, STEPANQUAT by STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 by REWO-WITCO. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, as cationic surfactant (s), one or more cationic surfactants of formula (II), and preferably one or more cationic surfactants of formula (II) corresponding to option (1). As examples of amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) surfactant (s), mention may be made of compounds derived from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 and preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. There may be mentioned in particular (C 8 _ 2 o) alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8
2o)amido(alkyl en C6-8)bétaïnes ou les (alkyl en C8_2o)amido(alkyl en C6_8)sulfobétaïnes. 2 o) amido (C 6-8) alkyl betaines or (C 8 _ 2 o) amido (C 6 _ 8) sulphobetaines.
Parmi les dérivés d'aminés, on peut citer les produits commercialisés sous la dénomination MIRANOL®, tels que décrits dans les brevets US 2 528 378 et US 2 781 354 et classés dans le dictionnaire CTFA, 3eme édition, 1982, sous les dénominations Amphocarboxy-glycinate et Amphocarboxypropionate de structures respectives (a) et (b) :Among the amine derivatives include the products sold under the name Miranol ®, as described in US patents 2,528,378 and US 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxy-glycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate of respective structures (a) and (b):
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO") (a) dans laquelle :R a -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (R b ) (R c ) (CH 2 COO - ) (a) in which:
R3 représente un groupe alkyle dérivé d'un acide R3-COOH présent dans l'huile de coprah hydrolysée, un groupe heptyle, nonyle ou undécyle, Rb représente un groupe bêta-hydroxyéthyle, etR 3 represents an alkyl group derived from an R 3 -COOH acid present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, R b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and
Rc représente un groupe carboxyméthyle ; etR c represents a carboxymethyl group; and
Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (b) dans laquelle : B représente -CH2CH2OX',R a '-CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (B) (B') (b) in which: B represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX ',
B' représente -(CH2)Z-Y\ avec z = 1 ou 2,B 'represents - (CH 2 ) Z -Y \ with z = 1 or 2,
X' représente le groupe -CH2CH2-COOH ou un atome d'hydrogène, Y' représente -COOH ou le groupe -CH2-CHOH-SO3H,X 'represents the group -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH or a hydrogen atom, Y' represents -COOH or the group -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H,
R3' représente un groupe alkyle d'un acide Ra'-COOH présent dans l'huile de coprah ou dans l'huile de lin hydrolysée, un groupe alkyle, notamment en Ci7 et sa forme iso, un groupe en Ci7 insaturé.R 3 'represents an alkyl group of a R a ' -COOH acid present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular Ci 7 and its iso form, a C 7 group unsaturated.
Ces composés sont classés dans le dictionnaire CTFA, 5eme édition, 1993, sous les dénominations cocoamphodiacétate de disodium, lauroamphodiacétate de disodium, caprylamphodiacétate de disodium, capryloamphodiacétate de disodium, cocoamphodipropionate de disodium, lauroamphodipropionate de disodium, caprylamphodipropionate de disodium, capryloamphodipropionate de disodium, acide lauroamphodipropionique, acide cocoamphodipropionique. A titre d'exemple, on peut citer le cocoamphodiacétate commercialisé par la société RHODIA sous la dénomination commerciale MIRANOL® C2M concentré.These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate caprylamphodiacetate disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate disodium capryloamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid. Examples include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M concentrate.
De préférence, le ou les tensioactifs portant au moins une charge cationique sont choisis parmi le chlorure de béhényl triméthyl ammonium, le méthosulfate de béhényl triméthyl ammonium, le méthosulfate de méthyl alkyl alkylamidoéthyl imidazolinium (QUATERNIUM-Preferably, the surfactant (s) carrying at least one cationic charge are chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate and methylalkylamidoethylimidazolinium methosulfate (QUATERNIUM).
87), le chlorure de cétyl triméthyl ammonium, et un mélange de cocamido propyl bétaïne et de cétyl bétaïne (MIRASPEC TAM 40/M - RHODIA), ou leurs mélanges.87), cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, and a mixture of cocamido propyl betaine and cetyl betaine (MIRASPEC TAM 40 / M - RHODIA), or mixtures thereof.
De préférence le ou les tensioactifs portant au moins une charge cationique de l'invention sont cationiques. Comme indiqué précédemment, la composition tinctoriale selon l'invention peut également comprendre un ou plusieurs acides éther carboxyliques ou l'un de ses sels.Preferably, the surfactant (s) carrying at least one cationic filler of the invention are cationic. As indicated above, the dyeing composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more carboxylic ether acids or one of its salts.
Les acides éther carboxyliques ou leurs sels sont choisis parmi les acides alkyl- ou alcényl- (C6-C24) éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés et leurs sels, les acides alkyl(C6- C24)aryl éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés et leurs sels, les acides alkyl(C6-C24) amido éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés et leurs sels, en particulier ceux comportant de 2 à 50 groupements oxyde d'alkylène en particulier d'éthylène, tels que les composés proposés par la société KAO sous les dénominations AKYPO.The carboxylic ether acids or their salts are chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl- or alkenyl- (C 6 -C 24 ) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) aryl ether aryl ether carboxylic acids and their salts; polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl amido ether acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds proposed by KAO under the names AKYPO.
On peut également utiliser les mélanges de ces tensioactifs.Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used.
Les sels sont en particulier choisis parmi les sels alcalins, notamment de sodium, les sels d'ammonium, les sels d'aminés, les sels d'aminoalcools tels la triéthanolamine ou la monoéthanolamine et les sels de magnésium.The salts are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts such as triethanolamine or monoethanolamine and magnesium salts.
Les tensioactifs du type acides éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés sont en particulier ceux qui répondent à la formule (N') suivante : R1 -(OC2H4)^-OCH2COOA dans laquelle :The surfactants of the polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acid type are, in particular, those which have the following formula (N '): R 1 - (OC 2 H 4 ) n - OCH 2 COOA in which:
Ri représente un radical ou un mélange de radicaux alkyle ou alcényle linéaire ou ramifié en C8-C22, un radical alkyl(C8-C9)phényle, un radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- avec R2 désignant un radical alkyle ou alcényle linéaire ou ramifié en Cn-C2-I, et n est un nombre entier ou décimal (valeur moyenne) pouvant varier de 2 à 24 et de préférence de 2 à 10,R 1 represents a radical or a mixture of linear or branched C 8 -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl radicals, a (C 8 -C 9 ) alkyl phenyl radical, a radical R 2 CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - with R 2 denoting a linear or branched Cn-C 2 - I alkyl or alkenyl radical, and n is an integer or decimal number (average value) which can vary from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
A désigne H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg ou un reste monoéthanolamine ou triéthanolamine. On peut également utiliser des mélanges de composés de formule (N') en particulier des mélanges dans lesquels les groupements R-| sont différents.A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue. It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (N '), in particular mixtures in which the groups R- | are different.
Plus particulièrement, le radical Ri est un groupement alkyle comprenant de 8 à 18 atomes de carbone et le groupement aryle désigne de préférence phényle.More particularly, the radical R 1 is an alkyl group comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denotes phenyl.
Les acides éther carboxylique polyoxyalkylénés ou leurs sels sont de préférence choisis parmi ceux de formule (N') dans laquelle Ri désigne un radical ou un mélange de radicaux alkyl(Ci2-Ci4), cocoyle, oléyle; un radical nonylphényle ou octylphényle A désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou de sodium, et n varie de 2 à 20 et de préférence 2 à 10.The polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids or their salts are preferably chosen from those of formula (N ') in which R 1 denotes a radical or a mixture of alkyl (C 12 -C 14 ), cocoyl, oleyl radicals; a nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and n ranges from 2 to 20 and preferably 2 to 10.
Plus préférentiellement encore, on utilise des composés de formule (N') dans laquelle Ri désigne un radical alkyl(Ci2-Ci4), A désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou de sodium, et n varie de 2 à 10.More preferably still, compounds of formula (N ') in which R 1 denotes an alkyl radical (C 1 -C 4 ), A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and n varies from 2 to 10.
Parmi les produits commerciaux, on peut utiliser de préférence les produits vendus par la société CHEM Y sous les dénominations :Among the commercial products, it is preferable to use the products sold by CHEM Y under the names:
AKYPO® NP 70 (R=nonylphényle, n=7, A=H) AKYPO® NP 40 (R=nonylphényle, n=4, A=H) AKYPO® OP 40 (R=octylphényle, n=4, A=H)AKYPO® NP 70 (R = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H) AKYPO® NP 40 (R = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H) AKYPO® OP 40 (R = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H )
AKYPO® OP 80 (R=octylphényle, n=8, A=H) AKYPO® OP 190 (R=octylphényle, n=19, A=H) AKYPO® RLM 38 (R= alkyl(C12-C14), n=3,8, A=H) AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R= alkyl(C12-C14), n=4, A=Na) AKYPO® RLM 45 (R= alkyl(C12-C14), n=4,5, A=H)AKYPO® OP 80 (R = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H) AKYPO® OP 190 (R = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H) AKYPO® RLM 38 (R = C 12 -C 14 alkyl), n = 3.8, A = H) AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 4, A = Na) AKYPO® RLM 45 (R = C 12 -C 14 alkyl) , n = 4.5, A = H)
AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (R= alkyl(C12-C14), n=4,5, A=Na) AKYPO® RLM 100 (R= alkyl(C12-C14), n=10, A=H) AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (R= alkyl(C12-C14), n=10, A=Na) AKYPO® RLM 130 (R= alkyl(C12-C14), n=13, A=H) AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (R= alkyl(C12-C14), n=16, A=Na) ou par la société SANDOZ sous les dénominations : SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R= alkyl(C1 3), n=6, A=H) SANDOPAN DTC (R= alkyl(C1 3), n=6, A=Na) SANDOPAN LS 24 (R= alkyl(C12-C14), n=12, A=Na) SANDOPAN JA 36 (R= alkyl(C-| 3), n=18, A=H), et plus particulièrement, les produits vendus sous les dénominations suivantes : AKYPO® RLM 45 AKYPO® RLM 100 AKYPO® RLM 38. La composition selon l'invention peut aussi comprendre un ou plusieurs tensioactifs non ioniques choisis parmi les tensioactifs non ioniques mono- ou poly-glycérolés et les esters de sorbitane polyoxyéthylénés.AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (R = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 4.5, A = Na) AKYPO® RLM 100 (R = C 12 -C 14 alkyl), n = 10, A = H AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (R = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 10, A = Na) AKYPO® RLM 130 (R = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 13, A = H) AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (R = alkyl (C 12 -C 14 ), n = 16, A = Na) or by SANDOZ under the names: SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R = alkyl (C 1 3 ), n = 6, A = H) SANDOPAN DTC (R = alkyl (C 1 3 ), n = 6, A = Na) SANDOPAN LS 24 (R = alkyl (C 12 -C 14 ), n = 12, A = Na) SANDOPAN JA 36 (R = alkyl (C 1 -C 3), n = 18, A = H), and more particularly, the products sold under the following names: AKYPO® RLM 45 AKYPO® RLM 100 AKYPO® RLM 38. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters.
En particulier, les tensioactifs non ioniques mono- ou poly- glycérolés sont choisis dans le groupe formé par les alcools gras mono- ou poly-glycérolés. Par alcool gras, on désigne plus particulièrement des alcools aliphatiques comprenant une chaîne alkyle saturée ou une chaîne alcényle comprenant au moins une instauration (-C=C-) et de préférence de 1 à 3 insaturations, ces chaînes étant linéaires ou ramifiées et comprenant de 8 à 40 atomes de carbone, plus préférentiellement de 10 à 30 atomes de carbone. La chaîne alkyle ou alcényle peut éventuellement être substituée par un groupement hydroxy supplémentaire. Plus précisément les alcools gras sont de préférence de formule R-OH, avec R désignant un radical alkyle ou alcényle linéaire ou ramifié, éventuellement substitué par un groupement hydroxy et comportant de 8 à 40 atomes de carbone, plus préférentiellement de 10 à 30 atomes de carbone.In particular, the mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants are chosen from the group formed by mono- or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols. The term "fatty alcohol" denotes more particularly aliphatic alcohols comprising a saturated alkyl chain or an alkenyl chain comprising at least one (-C = C-) and preferably 1 to 3 unsaturations, these chains being linear or branched and comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms carbon. The alkyl or alkenyl chain may optionally be substituted by an additional hydroxy group. More precisely, the fatty alcohols are preferably of formula R-OH, with R denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group and containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon.
Selon un mode de réalisation avantageux de l'invention, le ou les tensioactifs non correspondent à la formule (IM') suivante :
Figure imgf000013_0001
dans laquelle : R représente un radical alkyle ou alcényle comprenant 1 à 3 insaturations (-C=C-), linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 8 à 40 atomes de carbone et de préférence de 10 à 30 atomes de carbone ; m représente un nombre (valeur moyenne) allant de 1 à 30 de préférence de 1 à 15 et encore plus préférentiellement de 1 ,5 à 10. De préférence, les alcools gras mono- ou poly-glycérolés de formule (IM') sont choisis parmi les alcools gras en Ci2-C24 comprenant de 1 à 10 moles de glycérol, plus particulièrement parmi l'alcool oléique à 2 moles de glycérol, l'alcool oléique à 4 moles de glycérol, l'alcool laurylique à 1 ,5 moles de glycérol.
According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the surfactant (s) not corresponding to the following formula (IM '):
Figure imgf000013_0001
in which: R represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 1 to 3 unsaturations (-C = C-), linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms; m represents a number (average value) ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 15 and even more preferably from 1.5 to 10. Preferably, the mono- or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols of formula (IM ') are chosen from fatty alcohols -C 2 -C 24 comprising from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, more particularly from oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, oleyl 4 mol of glycerol alcohol, lauryl alcohol 1 5 moles of glycerol.
Le ou les esters de sorbitane polyoxyéthylénés de l'invention sont des esters polyoxyéthylénés d'alcools gras et d'anhydride de sorbitol. De préférence ces esters sont des monoesters. Ces esters comprennent plus particulièrement un nombre de moles d'oxyde d'éthylène inférieur ou égal à 30, de préférence compris entre 2 et 30, plus préférentiellement compris entre 2 et 10, mieux entre 2 et 6. De préférence ils possèdent la structure suivante (IV)The polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester (s) of the invention are polyoxyethylenated esters of fatty alcohols and sorbitol anhydride. Preferably these esters are monoesters. These esters more particularly comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide less than or equal to 30, preferably between 2 and 30, more preferably between 2 and 10, better still between 2 and 6. Preferably they have the following structure (IV)
Figure imgf000013_0002
w,x,y,z désignant respectivement un nombre entre 0 et 20 et de telle sorte que w+x+y+z soit inférieur ou égal à 30, de préférence compris entre 2 et 30, plus préférentiellement compris entre 2 et 10, mieux entre 2 et 6 (valeurs moyennes). R désigne un radical alkyle ou alcényle, linéaire ou ramifié comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone et éventuellement substitué par un radical hydroxy. Selon un mode de réalisation encore plus préféré de l'invention, le ou les esters de sorbitane polyoxyéthylénés sont tels que le nombre de moles d'oxyde d'éthylène varie de 2 à 5 (bornes incluses).
Figure imgf000013_0002
w, x, y, z respectively denoting a number between 0 and 20 and such that w + x + y + z is less than or equal to 30, preferably between 2 and 30, more preferably between 2 and 10, better between 2 and 6 (average values). R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally substituted by a hydroxyl radical. According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester (s) are such that the number of moles of ethylene oxide varies from 2 to 5 (inclusive).
A titre d'exemple d'esters de sorbitane polyoxyéthylénés de l'invention, on peut citer le mono-laurate de sorbitane oxyéthyléné à 4OE ou polysorbate 21 , le mono-stéarate de sorbitane oxyéthyléné à 4OE ou polysorbate 61 , le mono-oléate de sorbitane oxyéthyléné à 5OE ou polysorbate 81. Ces esters de sorbitane sont par exemple commercialisés par la société Uniquema sous la dénomination Tween 21 , Tween 61 ou Tween 81.By way of example of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters of the invention, there may be mentioned sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated at 40E or polysorbate 21, sorbitan mono-stearate oxyethylenated at 40E or polysorbate 61, the mono-oleate of oxyethylenated sorbitan at 5OE or polysorbate 81. These sorbitan esters are for example sold by the company Uniquema under the name Tween 21, Tween 61 or Tween 81.
La composition selon l'invention présente une teneur en tensioactif(s) tels que décrits précédemment variant de 0,01 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids de la composition tinctoriale, et de préférence de 0,05 à 10 % en poids.The composition according to the invention has a content of surfactant (s) as described above ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the dye composition, and preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight.
Il est à noter que dans le cas particulier de tensioactifs du type des acide(s) éther carboxylique(s), leur teneur peut varier de 0,01 à 30 % en poids par rapport au poids de la composition tinctoriale, et de préférence de 0,1 à 15 % en poids. Le milieu approprié pour la teinture appelé aussi support de teinture comprend généralement de l'eau ou un mélange d'eau et d'un ou plusieurs solvants comme par exemple les alcanols inférieurs en d-C4, tels que l'éthanol et l'isopropanol, les polyols comme le propylèneglycol, le dipropylèneglycol ou le glycérol, et les éthers de polyols comme le monométhyléther de dipropylèneglycol. Le ou les solvants sont en général présents dans des proportions pouvant être comprises entre 1 et 40% en poids environ par rapport au poids total de la composition tinctoriale, et encore plus préférentiellement entre 3 et 30% en poids environ.It should be noted that in the particular case of surfactants of the type of carboxylic acid (s), their content may vary from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the dyeing composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight. The medium which is suitable for dyeing, also known as a dyeing medium, generally comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more solvents such as, for example, lower alkanols in dC 4 , such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or glycerol, and polyol ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether. The solvent or solvents are generally present in proportions which can be between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and even more preferably between 3 and 30% by weight approximately.
La composition tinctoriale conforme à l'invention peut également renfermer divers adjuvants utilisés classiquement dans les compositions pour la teinture des cheveux, tels que des agents tensioactifs anioniques, non ioniques, ou leurs mélanges, des polymères anioniques, cationiques, non ioniques, amphotères, zwitterioniques ou leurs mélanges, des agents épaississants minéraux ou organiques, et en particulier les épaississants associatifs polymères anioniques, cationiques, non ioniques et amphotères, des agents antioxydants, des agents de pénétration, des agents séquestrants, des parfums, des tampons, des agents dispersants, des agents de conditionnement tels que par exemple des silicones volatiles ou non volatiles, modifiées ou non modifiées, des agents filmogènes, des céramides, des agents conservateurs, des agents opacifiants.The dyeing composition in accordance with the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, nonionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers. or mixtures thereof, inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents.
Les adjuvants ci dessus sont en général présents en quantité comprise pour chacun d'eux entre 0,01 et 20% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition. Bien entendu, l'homme de l'art veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés complémentaires de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement à la composition de teinture d'oxydation conforme à l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par la ou les adjonctions envisagées. Le pH de la composition tinctoriale conforme à l'invention est généralement compris entre 3 et 12 environ, et de préférence entre 5 et 1 1 environ. Il peut être ajusté à la valeur désirée au moyen d'agents acidifiants ou alcalinisants habituellement utilisés en teinture des fibres kératiniques ou bien encore à l'aide de systèmes tampons classiques. Parmi les agents acidifiants, on peut citer, à titre d'exemple, les acides minéraux ou organiques comme l'acide chlorhydrique, l'acide orthophosphorique, l'acide sulfurique, les acides carboxyliques comme l'acide acétique, l'acide tartrique, l'acide citrique, l'acide lactique, les acides sulfoniques.The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the oxidation dyeing composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition or additions envisaged. The pH of the dye composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, and preferably between 5 and 1 1 approximately. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
Parmi les agents alcalinisants on peut citer, à titre d'exemple, l'ammoniaque, les carbonates alcalins, les silicates et métasilicates alcalins, les alcanolamines telles que les mono-, di- et triéthanolamines ainsi que leurs dérivés, les hydroxydes de sodium, potassium ou magnésium, les sels alcalins de pyrrolidine carboxylate et les composés de formule (Vl) suivante : a XAmong the alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, for example, ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkali silicates and metasilicates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium hydroxides, potassium or magnesium, the alkaline salts of pyrrolidine carboxylate and the compounds of formula (VI) below:
N W NN W N
Rc Rd (Vl) dans laquelle W est un reste propylène éventuellement substitué par un groupement hydroxyle ou un radical alkyle en d-C4 ; R3, Rb, Rc et Rd, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC4 ou hydroxyalkyle en CrC4. La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre un ou plusieurs agents oxydants. Les agents oxydants classiquement utilisés pour la teinture d'oxydation des fibres kératiniques sont par exemple le peroxyde d'hydrogène, le peroxyde d'urée, les bromates de métaux alcalins, les persels tels que les perborates et persulfates, les peracides et les enzymes oxydases parmi lesquelles on peut citer les peroxydases, les oxydo-réductases à 2 électrons telles que les uricases et les oxygénases à 4 électrons comme les laccases. Le peroxyde d'hydrogène est particulièrement préféré. La composition tinctoriale selon l'invention peut se présenter sous des formes diverses, telles que sous forme de liquides, de crèmes, de gels, ou sous toute autre forme appropriée pour réaliser une teinture des fibres kératiniques, et notamment des cheveux humains. Elle peut résulter du mélange au moment de l'emploi de plusieurs compositions. Dans une première variante particulière elle résulte du mélange d'au moins deux compositions, l'une comprenant une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation choisies parmi les composés de formule (I) ou leurs sels d'addition avec un acide, éventuellement une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation additionnelles différentes du composé de formule (I) ou de ses sels, et éventuellement un ou plusieurs coupleurs, une seconde composition comprenant le ou les tensioactifs tels que décrits précédemment et éventuellement une troisième composition comprenant un ou plusieurs agents oxydants tels que décrits précédemment Dans une seconde variante particulière elle résulte du mélange de deux compositions, l'une comprenant une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation choisies parmi le composé de formule (I) ou ses sels d'addition avec un acide, le ou les tensioactifs tels que décrits précédemment, éventuellement une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation additionnelles différentes du composé de formule (I) ou de ses sels, et éventuellement un ou plusieurs coupleurs, une autre composition comprenant un ou plusieurs agents oxydants tels que décrits précédemment. Rc Rd (Vl) in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or an alkyl radical in dC 4 ; R 3, R b, R c and R d, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or C 4 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl. The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more oxidizing agents. The oxidizing agents conventionally used for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers are, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids and oxidase enzymes. among which there may be mentioned peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases. Hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred. The dye composition according to the invention may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels, or in any other form suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers, and especially human hair. It can result from mixing at the time of use of several compositions. In a first particular variant it results from the mixture of at least two compositions, one comprising one or more oxidation bases selected from compounds of formula (I) or their addition salts with an acid, optionally one or more different additional oxidation bases of the compound of formula (I) or of its salts, and optionally one or more couplers, a second composition comprising the surfactant (s) as described above and optionally a third composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents such as previously described In a second particular variant it results from the mixture of two compositions, one comprising one or more oxidation bases chosen from the compound of formula (I) or its addition salts with an acid, the surfactant (s) as described previously, optionally one or more additional oxidation bases different from the compound of formula (I) or its salts, and optionally one or more couplers, another composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents as described above.
La composition de l'invention est donc appliquée sur les cheveux pour la coloration des fibres kératiniques soit telle quelle soit en présence d'un ou plusieurs agents oxydants, pour la coloration des fibres kératiniques.The composition of the invention is therefore applied to the hair for dyeing keratinous fibers either as such or in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents, for dyeing keratinous fibers.
Le procédé de la présente invention est un procédé dans lequel on applique sur les fibres la composition selon la présente invention telle que définie précédemment, soit seule soit en présence d'un ou plusieurs agents oxydants.The process of the present invention is a process in which the composition according to the present invention as defined above, either alone or in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents, is applied to the fibers.
La couleur peut être révélée à pH acide, neutre ou alcalin De plus, le ou les agents oxydants, s'ils sont présents, peuvent être ajoutés à la composition de l'invention juste au moment de l'emploi ou bien encore être mis en œuvre à partir d'une composition oxydante le(s) contenant, appliquée simultanément ou séquentiellement à la composition de l'invention.The color may be revealed at acidic, neutral or alkaline pH In addition, the oxidizing agent (s), if present, may be added to the composition of the invention just at the time of use or may be work from an oxidizing composition containing (s), applied simultaneously or sequentially to the composition of the invention.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier et préféré de l'invention, la composition selon la présente invention exempte d'agent(s) oxydant(s) est mélangée, de préférence au moment de l'emploi, à une composition comprenant, dans un milieu approprié pour la teinture, un ou plusieurs agents oxydants. Le mélange obtenu est ensuite appliqué sur les fibres kératiniques.According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention free of oxidizing agent (s) is mixed, preferably at the time of use, with a composition comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, one or more oxidizing agents. The mixture obtained is then applied to the keratinous fibers.
Les agents oxydants sont ceux indiqués précédemment. Que ce soit avec ou sans agents oxydants, le temps de pause de la ou des compositions varie de 3 à 50 minutes environ, de préférence 5 à 30 minutes environ.The oxidizing agents are those indicated above. Whether with or without oxidizing agents, the pause time of the composition (s) varies from approximately 3 to 50 minutes, preferably from 5 to approximately 30 minutes.
La température durant l'application est classiquement comprise entre la température ambiante (entre 15 à 25°C) et 800C, de préférence entre la température ambiante et 600C.The temperature during the application is conventionally between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C.) and 80 ° C., preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C.
A l'issue de ce temps de pause, les fibres kératiniques sont rincées à l'eau, éventuellement lavées au shampooing, rincées à l'eau à nouveau puis séchées.At the end of this pause time, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water, optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed with water again and then dried.
La composition oxydante peut également renfermer divers adjuvants utilisés classiquement dans les compositions pour la teinture des cheveux et tels que définis précédemment.The oxidizing composition may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair and as defined above.
Le pH de la composition oxydante renfermant l'agent oxydant est tel qu'après mélange avec la composition tinctoriale, le pH de la composition résultante appliquée sur les fibres kératiniques varie de préférence entre 3 et 12 environ, et encore plus préférentiellement entre 5 et 1 1. Il peut être ajusté à la valeur désirée au moyen d'agents acidifiants ou alcalinisants habituellement utilisés en teinture des fibres kératiniques et tels que définis précédemment. La composition prête à l'emploi avec ou sans agent oxydant, qui est finalement appliquée sur les fibres kératiniques peut se présenter sous des formes diverses, telles que sous forme de liquides, de crèmes, de gels ou sous toute autre forme appropriée pour réaliser une teinture des fibres kératiniques, et notamment des cheveux humains. L'invention a aussi pour objet un dispositif à plusieurs compartiments ou "kit" de teinture dans lequel un premier compartiment renferme la composition tinctoriale de la présente invention définie ci-dessus dépourvue d'agent oxydant et un deuxième compartiment renferme une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs agents oxydants.The pH of the oxidizing composition containing the oxidizing agent is such that, after mixing with the dyeing composition, the pH of the resulting composition applied to the keratinous fibers preferably varies between 3 and 12 approximately, and even more preferably between 5 and 1. 1. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used in dyeing keratinous fibers and as defined above. The ready-to-use composition with or without an oxidizing agent, which is finally applied to the keratinous fibers may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels or in any other form suitable for carrying out dyeing keratinous fibers, and in particular human hair. The invention also relates to a multi-compartment device or "kit" of dyeing in which a first compartment contains the dye composition of the present invention defined above without any oxidizing agent and a second compartment contains a composition comprising one or more several oxidizing agents.
Un second dispositif est constitué par un premier compartiment contenant une composition comprenant une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation choisies parmi le composé de formule (I) ou ses sels d'addition avec un acide, éventuellement une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation additionnelles différentes du composé de formule (I) ou de ses sels et éventuellement un ou plusieurs coupleurs et un second compartiment renfermant une composition comprenant le ou les tensioactifs tels que précédemment décrits. Un troisième dispositif peut éventuellement comprendre les deux compartiments du second dispositif plus un troisième compartiment renfermant une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs agents oxydants.A second device is constituted by a first compartment containing a composition comprising one or more oxidation bases selected from the compound of formula (I) or its addition salts with an acid, optionally one or more additional oxidation bases other than compound of formula (I) or its salts and optionally one or more couplers and a second compartment containing a composition comprising the surfactant or surfactants as previously described. A third device may optionally comprise the two compartments of the second device plus a third compartment containing a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
Ces dispositifs peuvent être équipés d'un moyen permettant de délivrer sur les cheveux le produit souhaité, tel que les dispositifs décrits dans le brevet FR-2 586 913. Les exemples qui suivent, servent à illustrer l'invention sans toutefois présenter un caractère limitatif.These devices may be equipped with means for delivering the desired product onto the hair, such as the devices described in patent FR-2 586 913. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. .
Exemple 1Example 1
On ré are la com osition suivante les uantités ex rimées en ramme :We have the following composition: the quantities extracted in ramme:
Figure imgf000017_0001
Figure imgf000017_0001
M.A. : exprimé en matière active Mode d'applicationMA: expressed as active ingredient Mode of application
La composition a été diluée extemporanément avec 1 ,5 fois son poids en eau oxygénée à 20 volumes.The composition was diluted extemporaneously with 1.5 times its weight in hydrogen peroxide at 20 volumes.
Le mélange a été appliqué sur des cheveux gris naturels à 90% blancs à raison de 10 g pour 1 g de cheveux pendant 30 minutes.The mixture was applied to 90% white natural gray hair at the rate of 10 g per 1 g of hair for 30 minutes.
Les cheveux ont ensuite été rincés, lavés avec un shampooing standard et séchés.The hair was then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried.
RésultatsResults
La coloration ca illaire a été évaluée de manière visuelle.
Figure imgf000018_0001
The hair color was evaluated visually.
Figure imgf000018_0001
Exemple 2Example 2
On prépare la composition suivante (les quantités exprimées en grammes sauf mention contraire :The following composition is prepared (the quantities expressed in grams unless otherwise stated:
Figure imgf000018_0002
Figure imgf000018_0002
M.A. : exprimé en matière active Mode d'applicationMA: expressed as active ingredient Mode of application
La composition a été diluée extemporanément avec 1 ,5 fois son poids en eau oxygénée à 20 volumes.The composition was diluted extemporaneously with 1.5 times its weight in hydrogen peroxide at 20 volumes.
Le mélange a été appliqué sur des cheveux gris naturels à 90% blancs à raison de 10 g pour 1 g de cheveux pendant 30 minutes à température ambiante.The mixture was applied to 90% white natural gray hair at the rate of 10 g per 1 g of hair for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Les cheveux ont ensuite été rincés, lavés avec un shampooing standard et séchés.The hair was then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried.
RésultatsResults
La coloration ca illaire a été évaluée de manière visuelle.
Figure imgf000019_0001
The hair color was evaluated visually.
Figure imgf000019_0001
Exemple 3Example 3
On prépare la composition suivante (les quantités exprimées en grammes sauf mention contraire :The following composition is prepared (the quantities expressed in grams unless otherwise stated:
Figure imgf000019_0002
M.A. : exprimé en matière active
Figure imgf000019_0002
MA: expressed as active ingredient
Mode d'applicationMode of application
La composition a été diluée extemporanément avec 1 ,5 fois son poids en d'eau oxygénée à 25 volumes et dont le pH est de 3.The composition was diluted extemporaneously with 1.5 times its weight in hydrogen peroxide at 25 volumes and whose pH is 3.
Le mélange ainsi réalisé a été appliqué sur des cheveux gris naturels à 90% blancs, à raison de 10 g pour 1 g de cheveux pendant 30 minutes.The mixture thus produced was applied to natural gray hair at 90% white, at the rate of 10 g per 1 g of hair for 30 minutes.
Les cheveux ont ensuite été rincés, lavés avec un shampooing standard et séchés.The hair was then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried.
RésultatsResults
La coloration capillaire a été évaluée de manière visuelle.Capillary staining was evaluated visually.
Hauteur de ton RefletReflection height
Composition 1 Châtain Marron DoréComposition 1 Golden Brown Chestnut
Exemple 4Example 4
On prépare la composition suivante (les quantités exprimées en grammes sauf mention contraire :The following composition is prepared (the quantities expressed in grams unless otherwise stated:
Figure imgf000020_0001
Mode d'application
Figure imgf000020_0001
Mode of application
La composition a été diluée extemporanément avec 1 ,5 fois son poids en d'eau oxygénée à 20 volumes et dont le pH est de 3.The composition was diluted extemporaneously with 1.5 times its weight in hydrogen peroxide at 20 volumes and whose pH is 3.
Le mélange ainsi réalisé a été appliqué sur des cheveux gris naturels à 90% blancs, à raison de 10 g pour 1 g de cheveux pendant 30mn.The mixture thus produced was applied to natural gray hair at 90% white, at the rate of 10 g per 1 g of hair for 30 minutes.
Les cheveux ont ensuite été rincés, lavés avec un shampooing standard et séchés.The hair was then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried.
RésultatResult
La coloration ca illaire a été évaluée de manière visuelle.
Figure imgf000021_0001
The hair color was evaluated visually.
Figure imgf000021_0001

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition de coloration des fibres kératiniques comprenant, dans un milieu approprié pour la teinture des fibres kératiniques : - une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation choisies parmi le composé de formule (I) ou ses sels d'addition avec un acide,1. Coloring composition of keratinous fibers comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers: one or more oxidation bases chosen from the compound of formula (I) or its addition salts with an acid,
Figure imgf000022_0001
et
Figure imgf000022_0001
and
- un ou plusieurs tensioactifs choisis parmi ceux portant au moins une charge cationique, parmi les acides éther carboxyliques ou l'un de leurs sels, ou parmi les tensioactifs non ioniques mono- ou poly-glycérolés et les esters de sorbitane polyoxyéthylénés.one or more surfactants chosen from those bearing at least one cationic charge, from carboxylic ether acids or one of their salts, or from mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters.
2. Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que la teneur en composé de formule (I) est comprise entre 0,001 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition tinctoriale.2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of compound of formula (I) is between 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
3. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les tensioactifs portant au moins une charge cationique sont choisis parmi : (i) les sels d'ammonium quaternaires de formule (II) suivante :3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant (s) carrying at least one cationic charge are chosen from: (i) the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II) below:
Figure imgf000022_0002
dans laquelle
Figure imgf000022_0002
in which
X' est un anion choisi par exemple dans le groupe des halogénures (chlorure, bromure ou iodure) ou alkyl(C2-C6)sulfates plus particulièrement méthylsulfate, des phosphates, des alkyl-ou-alkylarylsulfonates, des anions dérivés d'acide organique tel que l'acétate ou le lactate, etX ' is an anion chosen for example from the group of halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl (C 2 -C 6 ) sulphates, more particularly methyl sulphate, phosphates, alkyl or alkylarylsulphonates, anions derived from acid organic compound such as acetate or lactate, and
(1 ) les radicaux Ri à R3, identiques ou différents, représentent un radical aliphatique, linéaire ou ramifié, en d-C4, ou un radical aryle ou alkylaryle, le radical alkyle étant éventuellement porteur d'un groupement alcoxy, alkylamide, R4 désigne un radical alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, en Ci6-C30, de préférence en Ci4-(1) the radicals R 1 to R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical, in d 4 , or an aryl or alkylaryl radical, the alkyl radical optionally carrying an alkoxy, alkylamide group, R 4 denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, Ci 6 -C 30 , preferably Ci 4 -
(2) les radicaux Ri et R2, identiques ou différents, représentent un radical aliphatique, linéaire ou ramifié, en d-C4, ou un radical que aryle ou alkylaryle, le radical alkyle étant éventuellement porteur d'un groupement alcoxy, alkylamide ou hydroxyalkyle, en CrC4 ;(2) the radicals R 1 and R 2 , which are identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, in dC 4 , or a radical that aryl or alkylaryl, the the alkyl radical optionally carrying a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy, alkylamide or hydroxyalkyl group;
R3 et R4, identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle ou alcényle, linéaire ou ramifié, en C12-C30, ledit radical comprenant éventuellement au moins une fonction ester ou amide ; (ii) les sels d'ammonium quaternaire de l'imidazolinium de formule (III) suivante :R 3 and R 4 , identical or different, denote a linear or branched C 12 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, said radical optionally comprising at least one ester or amide function; (ii) the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazolinium of formula (III) below:
Figure imgf000023_0001
dans laquelle
Figure imgf000023_0001
in which
R5 représente un radical alcényle ou alkyle en C12-C30,R 5 represents an alkenyl or C 12 -C 30 alkyl radical,
R6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en d-C4 ou un radical alcényle ou alkyle en C12-C30,R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or C 12 -C 30 alkyl radical,
R7 représente un radical alkyle en CrC4, R8 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC4,R 7 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical,
X est un anion X notamment choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-ou-alkylarylsulfonates. (iii) les sels de diammonium quaternaire de formule (IV) :X is an anion X especially selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates. (iii) quaternary diammonium salts of formula (IV):
Figure imgf000023_0002
dans laquelle
Figure imgf000023_0002
in which
R9 désigne un radical alkyle ou alcényle en C12-C30,R 9 denotes a C 12 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
R10, Rn, Ri2, R13 et R14, identiques ou différents sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en d-C4, etR 10, Rn, R 2, R 1 3 and R 14, identical or different are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical -C 4, and
X est un anion notamment choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, acétates, phosphates, nitrates et méthylsulfates ;X is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulphates;
(iv) les sels d'ammonium quaternaire contenant au moins une fonction ester de formule (V) suivante :(iv) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of formula (V) below:
( CnH2nO )z (C n H 2n O) z
R17 - C - ( O CnH2n )y N - ( Cp H2P O )X - R16 R 17 - C - (OC n H 2n) y N - (C p H 2p O) x - R 16
R« (V) dans laquelle :R "(V) in which:
• Ri5 est choisi parmi les radicaux alkyle en d-C6, hydroxyalkyle en d-C6, dihydroxyalkyle en C2-C6 ;• R 5 is selected from alkyl, dC 6 hydroxyalkyl dC 6 dihydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 6;
• Ri6 est choisi parmi le radical R19-CO-, un radical R2o alkyle ou alcényle en Ci-C22 linéaire ou ramifié, un atome d'hydrogène, • Ris est choisi parmi le radical R21-CO-, un radical R22 alkyle ou alcényle en CrC6 linéaires ou ramifiés, un atome d'hydrogène,Ri 6 is chosen from the radical R 19 -CO-, a radical R 2 o alkyl or alkenyl Ci-C 22 linear or branched, a hydrogen atom, Ris is chosen from the radical R 21 -CO-, a radical R 22 alkyl or alkenyl in linear or branched CrC 6 , a hydrogen atom,
• R17, R19 et R21, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux alkyle ou alcényle en C12-C22, linéaires ou ramifiés ; • n, p et r, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 2 à 6 ;R 17 , R 19 and R 21 , which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C 12 -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl radicals; • n, p and r, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
• y est un entier valant de 1 à 10 ;• y is an integer from 1 to 10;
• x et z, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 0 à 10 ;• x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10;
• X' est un anion simple ou complexe, organique ou inorganique.• X ' is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic.
4. Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que le ou les tensioactifs portant au moins une charge cationique sont choisis parmi les tensioactifs cationiques de formule (II), et de préférence un ou plusieurs tensioactifs cationiques de formule (II) correspondant à l'option (1 ).4. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the surfactant or surfactants carrying at least one cationic charge are chosen from cationic surfactants of formula (II), and preferably one or more cationic surfactants of formula (II) corresponding to option (1).
5. Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que le ou les tensioactifs portant au moins une charge cationique sont choisis parmi les tensioactifs amphotères ou zwitterioniques, on peut citer : les dérivés d'aminés aliphatiques secondaires ou tertiaires, dans lesquels le groupe aliphatique est une chaîne linéaire ou ramifiée comportant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone et comprenant au moins un groupe anionique tel que, par exemple, un groupe carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate ou phosphonate, - les alkylbétaïnes, les sulfobétaïnes, les alkylamidoalkyl(C6-C8)bétaïnes, les alkylamidoalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobétaïnes.5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the surfactant or surfactants carrying at least one cationic charge are chosen from amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, mention may be made of: derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and comprising at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group, alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, alkylamidoalkyls (C 6 -C 8 ) betaines, alkylamidoalkyl (C 6 -C 8 ) sulfobetaines.
6. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les acides éther carboxyliques sont choisis parmi les acides alkyl- ou alcényl- (C6-C24) éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés, les acides alkyl(C6-C24)aryl éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés et leurs sels, les acides alkyl(C6-C24) amido éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés et leurs sels, ainsi que leurs mélanges.6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carboxylic acid or acids are chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl- or alkenyl- (C 6 -C 24 ) ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C 6 - C 24 ) polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic aryl ether and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkylamido carboxylic acids and their salts, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les acides éther carboxyliques correspondent à la formule (N') suivante : R1 -(OC2H4)^-OCH2COOA dans laquelle :7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carboxylic acid or acids correspond to the following formula (N '): R 1 - (OC 2 H 4 ) - - OCH 2 COOA in which:
R1 représente un radical ou un mélange de radicaux alkyle ou alcényle linéaire ou ramifié en C8-C22, un radical alkyl(C8-C9)phényle, un radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- avec R2 désignant un radical alkyle ou alcényle linéaire ou ramifié en C11-C21, n est un nombre entier ou décimal variant de 2 à 24 A désigne H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg ou un reste monoéthanolamine ou triéthanolamine.R 1 represents a radical or a mixture of linear or branched C 8 -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl radicals, a (C 8 -C 9 ) alkyl phenyl radical, a radical R 2 CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - with R 2 denoting a linear or branched C 11 -C 21 alkyl or alkenyl radical, n is an integer or decimal number ranging from 2 to 24 A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
8. Composition selon la revendications précédente, caractérisée en ce que le ou les acides éther carboxylique correspondent à la formule (N') dans laquelle R1 désigne un radical ou un mélange de radicaux alkyl(C12-C14), cocoyle, oléyle; un radical nonylphényle ou octylphényle ; A désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou de sodium ; n varie de 2 à 20. 8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the carboxylic acid ether or acids correspond to the formula (N ') in which R 1 denotes a radical or a mixture of alkyl (C 12 -C 14 ), cocoyl, oleyl radicals. ; a nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical; A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom; n varies from 2 to 20.
9. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les tensioactifs non ioniques mono- ou poly- glycérolés correspondent à la9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant or surfactants correspond to the
Figure imgf000025_0001
dans laquelle :
Figure imgf000025_0001
in which :
R représente un radical alkyle ou alcényle comprenant 1 à 3 insaturations (-C=C-), linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 8 à 40 atomes de carbone ; m représente un nombre allant de 1 à 30.R represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 1 to 3 unsaturations (-C = C-), linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms; m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30.
10. Composition selon la revendication 3, caractérisée en ce que les alcools gras mono- ou poly-glycérolés de formule (IM') sont choisis parmi les alcools gras en Ci2-C24 comprenant de 1 à 10 moles de glycérol, plus particulièrement parmi l'alcool oléique à 2 moles de glycérol, l'alcool oléique à 4 moles de glycérol, l'alcool laurylique à 1 ,5 moles de glycérol.10. Composition according to Claim 3, characterized in that the mono- or poly-glycerolated fatty alcohols of formula (IM ') are chosen from C 12 -C 24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, more particularly from oleic alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol and lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol.
11. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les esters de sorbitane polyoxyéthylénés possèdent la structure (IV)11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters have the structure (IV)
Figure imgf000025_0002
w,x,y,z désignant respectivement un nombre entre O et 20 et de telle sorte que w+x+y+z soit inférieur ou égal à 30, de préférence compris entre 2 et 30,
Figure imgf000025_0002
w, x, y, z respectively denoting a number between 0 and 20 and such that w + x + y + z is less than or equal to 30, preferably between 2 and 30,
R désigne un radical alkyle ou alcényle, linéaire ou ramifié comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone et éventuellement substitué par un radical hydroxy.R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally substituted by a hydroxyl radical.
12. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les esters de sorbitane comprennent un nombre de moles d'oxyde d'éthylène compris entre 2 et 10, mieux entre 2 et 6 (valeurs moyennes).12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sorbitan ester or esters comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide of between 2 and 10, better still between 2 and 6 (average values).
13. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le ou les esters de sorbitane polyoxyéthylénés sont choisis parmi le mono-laurate de sorbitane oxyéthyléné à 4OE, le mono-stéarate de sorbitane oxyéthyléné à 4OE, le mono-oléate de sorbitane oxyéthyléné à 5OE.13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ester or esters are chosen from sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated at 40E, sorbitan mono-stearate oxyethylenated at 40E, mono-oleate. of oxyethylenated sorbitan at 5OE.
14. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la teneur en tensioactif(s) représente de 0,01 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition tinctoriale, et de préférence de 0,05 à 10% en poids.14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of surfactant (s) is from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the dye composition, and preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight.
15. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un ou plusieurs coupleurs. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more couplers.
16. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation additionnelles différentes du composé de formule (I) ou ses sels, en particulier choisies parmi les ortho- ou para- phénylènediamines, les bases doubles, les ortho- ou para- aminophénols, et les bases hétérocycliques, ainsi que les sels d'addition de ces composés avec un acide.16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains one or more different additional oxidation bases of the compound of formula (I) or its salts, in particular chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines. , double bases, ortho- or para-aminophenols, and heterocyclic bases, as well as the addition salts of these compounds with an acid.
17. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un ou plusieurs agents oxydants, en particulier, choisis parmi le peroxyde d'hydrogène, le peroxyde d'urée, les bromates de métaux alcalins, les persels, les peracides et les enzymes oxydases et de préférence le peroxyde d'hydrogène. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains one or more oxidizing agents, in particular chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts. peracids and oxidase enzymes and preferably hydrogen peroxide.
18. Procédé de teinture des fibres kératiniques, caractérisé en ce qu'une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 16 est appliquée sur les fibres kératiniques sans agent oxydant.18. A process for dyeing keratin fibers, characterized in that a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 is applied to the keratin fibers without an oxidizing agent.
19. Procédé de teinture des fibres kératiniques, caractérisé en ce qu'une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 16 est appliquée sur les fibres kératiniques en présence d'un ou plusieurs agents oxydants.19. A process for dyeing keratinous fibers, characterized in that a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 is applied to the keratinous fibers in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents.
20. Dispositif à plusieurs compartiments dans lequel un premier compartiment contient une composition tinctoriale telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 16 et un deuxième compartiment renfermant une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs agents oxydants. 20. A multi-compartment device in which a first compartment contains a dye composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 and a second compartment containing a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
21. Dispositif à plusieurs compartiments dans lequel un premier compartiment comprend une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation choisies parmi le composé de formule (I) ou l'un de ses sels avec un acide selon la revendication 1 et éventuellement une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation différentes du composé de formule (I) ou de ses sels et éventuellement un ou plusieurs coupleurs ; un deuxième compartiment renferme une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs tensioactifs tels que décrits dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 et 3 à 13, et éventuellement un troisième compartiment renfermant une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs agents oxydants. 21. A multi-compartment device in which a first compartment comprises one or more oxidation bases chosen from the compound of formula (I) or one of its salts with an acid according to claim 1 and optionally one or more bases of different oxidation of the compound of formula (I) or its salts and optionally one or more couplers; a second compartment contains a composition comprising one or more surfactants as described in any one of claims 1 and 3 to 13, and optionally a third compartment containing a composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
PCT/FR2010/050964 2009-05-19 2010-05-19 Dyeing composition comprising a secondary para-phenylenediamine oxidation base and a specific surfactant WO2010133803A1 (en)

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FR0953329 2009-05-19
FR0953323A FR2945732B1 (en) 2009-05-19 2009-05-19 TINCTORIAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARA-PHENYLENE DIAMINE SECONDARY OXIDATION BASE AND CATIONIC CHARGE SURFACTANT.
FR0953329A FR2945735B1 (en) 2009-05-19 2009-05-19 TINCTORIAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARA-PHENYLENE DIAMINE SECONDARY OXIDATION BASE AND A PARTICULAR NON-IONIC SURFACTANT
FR0953326 2009-05-19
FR0953323 2009-05-19
FR0953326A FR2945733B1 (en) 2009-05-19 2009-05-19 TINCTORIAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARA-PHENYLENE DIAMINE SECONDARY OXIDATION BASE AND A CARBOXYLIC ETHER ACID

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WO2012175690A3 (en) * 2011-06-24 2013-10-31 L'oreal Compositions containing an amine or a phospholipid, a nonionic surfactant, and a carboxylate compound for lifting color and/or imparting shine onto keratinous substrates
US8663341B2 (en) 2012-06-25 2014-03-04 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair colorant compositions comprising 2-Methoxymethy1-1,4-diaminobenzene, methods, and kits comprising the compositions
US8802069B2 (en) 2011-06-24 2014-08-12 L'oreal Compositions containing a phospholipid, a nonionic surfactant, and a carboxylate compound for lifting color and/or imparting shine onto keratinous substrates
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US9012691B2 (en) 2012-10-26 2015-04-21 The Procter & Gamble Company Process for preparing primary intermediates for dyeing keratin fibers
US9309185B2 (en) 2012-10-26 2016-04-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Process for preparing primary intermediates for dyeing keratin fibers
US9539192B2 (en) 2014-04-02 2017-01-10 Noxell Corporation Hair colouring compositions, kits, method, and use thereof
US9587116B2 (en) 2014-11-04 2017-03-07 Noxell Corporation Azo direct dyes and method for dyeing hair using these dyes
US9688609B2 (en) 2014-11-04 2017-06-27 Noxell Corporation Telescoping synthesis of 2-methoxymethyl-P-phenylenediamine
US9695109B2 (en) 2014-11-04 2017-07-04 Noxell Corporation Telescoping synthesis of 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine
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WO2012175690A3 (en) * 2011-06-24 2013-10-31 L'oreal Compositions containing an amine or a phospholipid, a nonionic surfactant, and a carboxylate compound for lifting color and/or imparting shine onto keratinous substrates
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US9309185B2 (en) 2012-10-26 2016-04-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Process for preparing primary intermediates for dyeing keratin fibers
US9539192B2 (en) 2014-04-02 2017-01-10 Noxell Corporation Hair colouring compositions, kits, method, and use thereof
US9587116B2 (en) 2014-11-04 2017-03-07 Noxell Corporation Azo direct dyes and method for dyeing hair using these dyes
US9688609B2 (en) 2014-11-04 2017-06-27 Noxell Corporation Telescoping synthesis of 2-methoxymethyl-P-phenylenediamine
US9695109B2 (en) 2014-11-04 2017-07-04 Noxell Corporation Telescoping synthesis of 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine
US9758469B2 (en) 2014-11-04 2017-09-12 Noxell Corporation Process for the preparation of 2-substituted-1,4-benzenediamines and salts thereof

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