WO2011069949A2 - Detergent, smoothing cosmetic hair composition, and cosmetic treatment process using the said composition - Google Patents

Detergent, smoothing cosmetic hair composition, and cosmetic treatment process using the said composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011069949A2
WO2011069949A2 PCT/EP2010/068944 EP2010068944W WO2011069949A2 WO 2011069949 A2 WO2011069949 A2 WO 2011069949A2 EP 2010068944 W EP2010068944 W EP 2010068944W WO 2011069949 A2 WO2011069949 A2 WO 2011069949A2
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alkyl
composition according
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composition
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WO2011069949A3 (en
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Myriam Mellul
Laurence Paul
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L'oreal
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic hair treatment composition, for the detergence and smoothing of the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one sulfureous reducing agent, at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant of alkylmonoglucoside or alkylpolyglucoside type.
  • the present invention also relates to cosmetic hair treatment processes using such a composition, and also to the uses of this composition for the detergence and/or smoothing of the hair.
  • the technique mo st frequently used consists, in a first stage, in opening the -S-S- disulfide bonds of keratin (keratocystine) using a composition that is generally basic containing a sulfureous reducing agent (reduction step) and then, after having rinsed, generally with water, the head of hair thus treated, in reconstituting the said disulfide bonds in a second stage by applying to the hair placed beforehand under an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also known as the fixing step) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape.
  • oxidizing composition oxidation step, also known as the fixing step
  • the products intended for smoothing or straightening the hair are generally formulated using thio ls and alkaline agents, whereas the products intended for relaxing curls rather contain products such as cysteine and derivatives thereo f. 2
  • the reducing agents are generally used in high concentrations, and the pH values of the formulations are quite basic, which may lead to more or less pronounced degradation of the hair fibre, in particular when the hair is dyed.
  • a shampoo base that is preferably weakly alkaline (close to neutrality) and containing a particular combination of surfactants based on an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, an anionic phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate surfactant, and an alkylmonoglucoside or alkylpolyglucoside surfactant, a shampoo composition that has smoothing activity on the hair can be obtained.
  • this composition makes it possible to obtain a reduction in the volume of the head of hair, and/or relaxation o f the hair curls, which is gradual. In particular, it is 3
  • the Applicant has also found that the use of a standard shampoo not containing any reducing agent, between two applications of the composition according to the invention, does not modify the smoothing or the curl relaxation (shampoo-remanent effect) .
  • composition according to the invention shows very good detergency and foaming properties .
  • the treatment using such a shampoo is mild, and does not degrade the hair fibres.
  • compositions according to the present invention do not require the presence of preserving agents .
  • One subj ect of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
  • one or more surfactants chosen from alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • cosmetically acceptable medium means a medium that is compatible with the hair.
  • the cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium comprises water or a mixture o f water and o f a cosmetically acceptable so lvent chosen from C 1 - C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butano l or n-butano l; po lyo ls such as propylene glyco l; polyo l ethers; C 5 - C 1 0 alkanes; C3 - C4 ketones, such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone;
  • C 1 - C4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate; dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane; and mixtures thereof. 4
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention may especially be chosen from aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made o f (C 8 - C 2 o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8 -C2o)alkylamido (C6-C8)alkylbetaines or (C8 -C2o)alkylamido(C6-Cs)- alkylsulfobetaines .
  • anionic group for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate
  • R a represents an alkyl group derived from an acid R a -COOH present in hydro lysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
  • Rb represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X' represents a -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH group or a hydrogen atom
  • Y ' represents -COOH or a -CH 2 -CHOH-S 0 3 H group
  • R a ' represents an alkyl group of an acid R a ' -COOH present in coconut oil or in hydro lysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 1 7 alkyl group and its iso form, an unsaturated C 1 7 group .
  • disodium lauroamphodiacetate disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho dipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from (C8 - C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8 - C20) alkylamido(C 6 -C 8 )alkylbetaines and (C 8 - C2o)alkylamido
  • a zwitterionic surfactant that is particularly preferred is cocoamidopropylbetaine.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants(s) are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 25 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 15 % by weight and better still from 1 % to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also contains one or more anionic surfactants, chosen from anionic surfactants comprising at least one phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate function.
  • Such anionic surfactants may be chosen especially from the salts o f the fo llowing compounds : alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, cc-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfo succinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfo acetates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkyl phosphates and alkyl ether phosphates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from
  • These compounds are generally used in the form o f salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as the sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example of magnesium.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example of magnesium.
  • Surfactants comprising a sulfate function, and in particular (Cs- C i 8)alkyl sulfates, (Cs- C i 8)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 0 to 20 oxyethylene units, and mixtures of these compounds, are preferably used.
  • Examples that are especially mentioned include sodium lauryl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units .
  • the anionic surfactants(s) comprising at least one phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate function are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 25 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 15 % by weight and better still from 1 % to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention also contains one or more surfactants chosen from alkylmono-glucosides and alkylpo lyglucosides in which the alkyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms .
  • alkylmonoglucosides and/or alkylpo lyglucosides are preferably chosen from those in which the alkyl group comprises from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms .
  • Examples o f particularly preferred compounds that may be mentioned include cocoglucoside and cocopolyglucosides
  • the said glucoside(s) are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 25 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 15 % by weight and better still from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may also advantageously comprise one or more anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one carboxylate function, i.e. a function -COO " , other than the 7
  • anionic surfactants (b) .
  • Such surfactants therefore do not comprise any phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate functions.
  • anionic surfactants may be chosen especially from the salts of the fo llowing compounds :
  • acylsarcosinates and acylglutamates in which the acyl groups comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms;
  • acyl group comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms
  • alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids in which the alkyl groups comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms;
  • alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcoho l salts or salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example o f magnesium.
  • the anionic surfactants comprising at least one carboxylate function are chosen from the salts o f the fo llowing compounds : po lyoxyalkylenated (C 6 - C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 - C24)alkyl(C 6 - C24)aryl ether carboxylic acids and po lyoxyalkylenated (C 6 - C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, these acids comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units .
  • salts o f polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 - C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units
  • salts o f polyoxyalkylenated (Cs- C i 8)alkyl ether carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one carboxylate function are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5%> to 15% by weight and better still from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactant(s) chosen from alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides as described above, and one or more anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one carboxylate function as described above.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional nonionic surfactants, other than the alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides of the invention.
  • nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are compounds that are well known per se (see especially in this regard the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116- 178).
  • They may be chosen especially from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerated a-diols, polyethoxylated polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols and polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, the fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.
  • ethylene oxide units fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters o f polyethylene glycol, polyethoxylated plant oils, N-(C 6 -C 24 )alkyl glucamine derivatives, and amine oxides such as (C i o-C i 4 )alkyl-amine oxides or N-(C 1 0 -C 1 4 )acyl aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
  • the amount of the additional nonionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0.0 1 % to 20% by weight and better still from 0.05 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants .
  • o f cationic surfactants mention may be made especially o f salts o f optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkyl- benzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazo line derivatives; or amine oxides of cationic nature.
  • cationic surfactants When cationic surfactants are present, their amount is preferably within the range from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 % to 5 % by weight and even more preferentially from 0.3 % to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • composition according to the present invention contains one or more sulfureous reducing agent(s) .
  • These agents are preferably chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto groups (-SH), sulfites and sulfite derivatives.
  • the organic compounds comprising a mercapto group are preferably chosen from the following compounds : thioglyco lic acid, thio lactic acid, cysteine, homocysteine , glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3 -mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethano l, dithiothreito l, thioxanthine, 10
  • thiosalicylic acid thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, and thioglyco lic or thio lactic acid esters, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • the sulfureous reducing agent(s) may especially be used in the form o f salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as the sodium and potassium salts; alkaline-earth metal salts, for example the magnesium and calcium salts; the ammonium salts; the amine salts ; the amino alcohol salts.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium and potassium salts
  • alkaline-earth metal salts for example the magnesium and calcium salts
  • the ammonium salts the amine salts
  • amino alcohol salts amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfureous reducing agent(s) are chosen from: thioglyco lic acid and salts thereof, thio lactic acid and salts thereof, alkali metal sulfites and especially sodium sulfite, alkali metal bisulfites and especially sodium bisulfite, and precursors of these sulfites or bisulfites, such as sodium metabisulfite .
  • the sulfureous reducing agent(s) are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 5 % by weight and preferably from 0.3 % to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the alkaline agent used in the compositions according to the invention may be any agent for increasing the pH of the composition in which it is present.
  • the alkaline agent may be a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base. It may be mineral or organic.
  • the alkaline agent may be chosen from:
  • alkano lamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropano lamine and 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, and also derivatives thereo f,
  • alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates
  • amino acids preferably basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine,
  • Examples of such compounds of formula (III) that may be mentioned include 1 ,3 -diaminopropane, 1 ,3 -diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
  • the mineral or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from: hydroxides o f an alkali metal; hydroxides of an alkaline-earth metal, for instance sodium or potassium hydroxide; hydroxides of a transition metal, such as hydroxides of metals from groups III, IV, V and VI of the Periodic Table of the Elements; lanthanide or actinide hydroxides; quaternary ammonium hydroxides, and guanidinium hydroxide.
  • the hydroxide may be formed in situ, for instance guanidine hydroxide, formed by reaction o f calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate.
  • the preferred alkaline agents are in particular aqueous ammonia, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, arginine, monoethano lamine and 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol.
  • the alkaline agent(s) as defined previously may represent, for example, from 0.001 % to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.005 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the concentration of alkaline agent(s) is especially adjusted as a function o f the desired pH for the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 7 to 10 and more preferentially from 7 to 8. 12
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more swelling agents or emo llients such as urea, glycols such as butylene glycol, hexylene glycol or propylene glyco l, sorbito l, melamine, guanidine or glycero l.
  • swelling agents or emo llients such as urea, glycols such as butylene glycol, hexylene glycol or propylene glyco l, sorbito l, melamine, guanidine or glycero l.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more conditioning agents.
  • silicones examples include linear, cyclic, branched or unbranched, volatile or non-vo latile silicones. These silicones may be in the form o f oils, resins or gums; they may in particular be polyorganosiloxanes .
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll ' s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones ( 1968) Academic Press . They may be vo latile or non-vo latile
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260° C .
  • Cationic po lymers especially such as polyquaterniums 22, 6, 10, 1 1 , 35 and 37 and hexadimethrine chloride are mo st particularly preferred as conditioning agent.
  • the concentration o f conditioning agent(s) in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.0 1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 % to 5 % by weight and even more preferentially from 0. 1 % to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of this composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic adjuvants.
  • it may comprise one or more conventional additives that are well known in the art, such as hair-lo ss counteractants, oxidizing agents, ceramides and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, plant, animal, mineral or synthetic oils, fatty alcoho ls, waxes, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, nacreous agents, fragrances and preserving agents . 13
  • hair-lo ss counteractants such as hair-lo ss counteractants, oxidizing agents, ceramides and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, plant, animal, mineral or synthetic oils, fatty alcoho ls, waxes, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy
  • the above additives may in general be present in an amount for each o f them o f between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is non-colouring, i. e. it does not significantly modify the co louration o f the fibres onto which it is applied.
  • Another subj ect of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process that comprises the application to dry or wet hair of a composition as described above.
  • such a process consists in applying the composition according to the present invention, and in optionally rinsing it out after an optional leave-on time .
  • the process according to the invention comprises the fo llowing steps :
  • a leave-on time that may range from 5 seconds to 60 minutes and preferably from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, at a temperature that may range from room temperature (about 25 °C) to 230°C and preferably from room temperature to 60°C , and even more preferably at room temperature, and then
  • the hair may then be dried, for examp le under a hood or a hair dryer, or may be left to dry in the open air.
  • the hair is in contact with the composition according to the invention, or after rinsing it.
  • the process according to the invention is repeated one or more times, until the desired level of smoothing is obtained.
  • a subj ect of the present invention is also a process for relaxing hair curls and/or for reducing the volume of the hair, which consists in applying the composition according to the invention one or more times to the hair.
  • the composition is applied several times, either consecutively or after a delay ranging from a few hours to a few days, each application being fo llowed by rinsing, until the desired level o f relaxation and/or vo lume reduction is obtained.
  • composition according to the invention may be fo llowed by the application o f a rinse-out or leave-on hair care optionally containing a reducing agent.
  • a subj ect of the present invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention.
  • This composition may be advantageously used for hair detergency, for smoothing the hair or for a combined effect of detergency and smoothing.
  • composition according to the invention may be applied before or after a smoothing or a standard permanent-waving treatment of the hair with or without fixing, in order to facilitate this treatment or to reinforce its efficacy (smoothing "booster” effect) .
  • shampoo were applied to the wet head of hair, i. e. premoistened and drained using a terry towel.
  • the shampoo was then spread out carefully by massaging the head o f hair.
  • the hair was rinsed thoroughly with water and then towel-dried, disentangled with a comb and dried with a hair dryer.
  • the Applicant found that the hair was clean, and showed a marked reduction in the vo lume of the head of hair. As regards curly hair, it was also found that the hair curls were more relaxed, with better curl definition.
  • the above treatment process may be repeated three times consecutively on the same head o f hair. Accentuated results are then observed.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), one or more anionic surfactant(s) chosen from those comprising at least one phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate function, one or more sulfureous reducing agent(s), one or more alkaline agent(s), and one or more surfactants chosen from alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides, the alkyl group of which comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The present invention also relates to a process for relaxing curls and/or for reducing the volume of the hair, using such a composition.

Description

B09-3970EXT
OA 09530 FB
Limited company known as : L 'OREAL
Detergent, smoothing cosmetic hair composition, and cosmetic treatment process using the said composition
Inventors Myriam MELLUL
Laurence PAUL
Detergent, smoothing cosmetic hair composition, and cosmetic treatment process using the said composition
The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair treatment composition, for the detergence and smoothing of the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one sulfureous reducing agent, at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant of alkylmonoglucoside or alkylpolyglucoside type.
The present invention also relates to cosmetic hair treatment processes using such a composition, and also to the uses of this composition for the detergence and/or smoothing of the hair.
To obtain permanent reshaping of the hair such as smoothing o f the hair, straightening or relaxing o f curls, the technique mo st frequently used consists, in a first stage, in opening the -S-S- disulfide bonds of keratin (keratocystine) using a composition that is generally basic containing a sulfureous reducing agent (reduction step) and then, after having rinsed, generally with water, the head of hair thus treated, in reconstituting the said disulfide bonds in a second stage by applying to the hair placed beforehand under an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also known as the fixing step) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape. The new shape given to the hair by such a chemical treatment is eminently long-lasting and especially shows resistance to the action of washing with water or with shampoo, as opposed to simple standard techniques of temporary reshaping, such as hairsetting.
Many products intended for smoothing or straightening the hair or for relaxing curls exist on the market.
The products intended for smoothing or straightening the hair are generally formulated using thio ls and alkaline agents, whereas the products intended for relaxing curls rather contain products such as cysteine and derivatives thereo f. 2
These products are generally applied to curly or voluminous hair in order to obtain more or less pronounced smoothing and a reduction in the vo lume and mass of the head o f hair.
The application of these products is generally long, with a more or less long leave-on time depending on the product, the type o f hair and the desired effect. It requires special know-how.
Furthermore, the reducing agents are generally used in high concentrations, and the pH values of the formulations are quite basic, which may lead to more or less pronounced degradation of the hair fibre, in particular when the hair is dyed.
Finally, the use of such a smoothing treatment is generally a drastic choice for the consumer, who cannot regulate the level o f smoothing according to his choice.
There is thus a real need to develop hair smoothing treatments that are lighter than those existing in the prior art, which not only degrade the hair fibre less, but are also easy to apply and allow modulation of the smoothing effect, for example by resorting to repeated applications.
The Applicant has now discovered that the introduction o f certain sulfureous active agents into a particular shampoo base can satisfy the abovementioned obj ectives.
In particular, it has discovered that by introducing at least one sulfureous reducing agent and at least one alkaline agent into a shampoo base that is preferably weakly alkaline (close to neutrality) and containing a particular combination of surfactants based on an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, an anionic phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate surfactant, and an alkylmonoglucoside or alkylpolyglucoside surfactant, a shampoo composition that has smoothing activity on the hair can be obtained.
The application o f such a composition is quick and simple, and does not require any particular know-how.
Furthermore, the application of this composition makes it possible to obtain a reduction in the volume of the head of hair, and/or relaxation o f the hair curls, which is gradual. In particular, it is 3
possible to modulate the desired effect, by successive applications o f such a shampoo .
In a particularly advantageous manner, the Applicant has also found that the use of a standard shampoo not containing any reducing agent, between two applications of the composition according to the invention, does not modify the smoothing or the curl relaxation (shampoo-remanent effect) .
Furthermore, the composition according to the invention shows very good detergency and foaming properties .
In addition, the treatment using such a shampoo is mild, and does not degrade the hair fibres.
Finally, the compositions according to the present invention do not require the presence of preserving agents .
One subj ect of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
a) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), b) one or more anionic surfactant(s) chosen from those comprising at least one phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate function,
c) one or more sulfurous reducing agent(s),
d) one or more alkaline agent(s), and
e) one or more surfactants chosen from alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with the hair.
The cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium comprises water or a mixture o f water and o f a cosmetically acceptable so lvent chosen from C 1 - C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butano l or n-butano l; po lyo ls such as propylene glyco l; polyo l ethers; C 5 - C 1 0 alkanes; C3 - C4 ketones, such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone;
C 1 - C4 alkyl acetates, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate; dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane; and mixtures thereof. 4
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention may especially be chosen from aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made o f (C8 - C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8 -C2o)alkylamido (C6-C8)alkylbetaines or (C8 -C2o)alkylamido(C6-Cs)- alkylsulfobetaines .
Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Mirano l®, as described in US patents 2 528 378 and 2 78 1 354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxyglycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate, having the respective structures (I) and (II) :
Ra-CONHCH2 CH2-N(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO") (I)
in which:
Ra represents an alkyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH present in hydro lysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
and
Ra' -CONHCH2 CH2-N(B)(B ') (II)
in which:
B represents -CH2CH2OX ' ,
B ' represents -(CH2)Z-Y ' , with z = 1 or 2,
X' represents a -CH2CH2-COOH group or a hydrogen atom, Y ' represents -COOH or a -CH2-CHOH-S 03H group,
Ra' represents an alkyl group of an acid Ra ' -COOH present in coconut oil or in hydro lysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 1 7 alkyl group and its iso form, an unsaturated C 1 7 group .
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 , under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, 5
disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho dipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made o f the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Mirano l® C2M concentrate.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from (C8 - C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8 - C20) alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8 - C2o)alkylamido
(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.
(C8 - C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8 - C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereo f are preferably used.
A zwitterionic surfactant that is particularly preferred is cocoamidopropylbetaine.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants(s) are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 25 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 15 % by weight and better still from 1 % to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention also contains one or more anionic surfactants, chosen from anionic surfactants comprising at least one phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate function.
Such anionic surfactants may be chosen especially from the salts o f the fo llowing compounds : alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, cc-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfo succinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfo acetates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkyl phosphates and alkyl ether phosphates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group . These compounds 6
may be monooxyethylenated or polyoxyethylenated, and may comprise up to 50 oxyethylene units.
These compounds are generally used in the form o f salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as the sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example of magnesium.
Surfactants comprising a sulfate function, and in particular (Cs- C i 8)alkyl sulfates, (Cs- C i 8)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 0 to 20 oxyethylene units, and mixtures of these compounds, are preferably used.
Examples that are especially mentioned include sodium lauryl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units .
The anionic surfactants(s) comprising at least one phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate function are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 25 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 15 % by weight and better still from 1 % to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the present invention also contains one or more surfactants chosen from alkylmono-glucosides and alkylpo lyglucosides in which the alkyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms .
The alkylmonoglucosides and/or alkylpo lyglucosides are preferably chosen from those in which the alkyl group comprises from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms .
Examples o f particularly preferred compounds that may be mentioned include cocoglucoside and cocopolyglucosides
The said glucoside(s) are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 25 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 15 % by weight and better still from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the present invention may also advantageously comprise one or more anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one carboxylate function, i.e. a function -COO", other than the 7
anionic surfactants (b) . Such surfactants therefore do not comprise any phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate functions.
Such anionic surfactants may be chosen especially from the salts of the fo llowing compounds :
- acylsarcosinates and acylglutamates, in which the acyl groups comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms;
monoesters of C6 - C24 alkyl and of (poly)glucoside- dicarboxylic acids, such as alkyl polyglucoside citrates and alkyl polyglucoside tartrates, the alkyl groups of these compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms;
- acyl-lactylates in which the acyl group comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms;
- alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids, in which the alkyl groups comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkyl(C6 - C24)aryl ether carboxylic acids and polyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units,
- and mixture o f these compounds.
These compounds are generally used in the form o f salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcoho l salts or salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example o f magnesium.
Preferably, the anionic surfactants comprising at least one carboxylate function are chosen from the salts o f the fo llowing compounds : po lyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkyl(C6 - C24)aryl ether carboxylic acids and po lyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, these acids comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units .
Among these compounds, it is preferred to use the salts o f polyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and even more preferentially the salts o f polyoxyalkylenated (Cs- C i 8)alkyl ether carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. 8
By way of example, mentioned is made especially of sodium lauryl ether carboxylates comprising from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
The anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one carboxylate function are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5%> to 15% by weight and better still from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactant(s) chosen from alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides as described above, and one or more anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one carboxylate function as described above.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional nonionic surfactants, other than the alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides of the invention.
The nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are compounds that are well known per se (see especially in this regard the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116- 178). They may be chosen especially from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerated a-diols, polyethoxylated polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols and polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, the fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 9
ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters o f polyethylene glycol, polyethoxylated plant oils, N-(C6-C24)alkyl glucamine derivatives, and amine oxides such as (C i o-C i 4)alkyl-amine oxides or N-(C 1 0-C 1 4)acyl aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
When they are present, the amount of the additional nonionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0.0 1 % to 20% by weight and better still from 0.05 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants .
As examples o f cationic surfactants, mention may be made especially o f salts o f optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkyl- benzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazo line derivatives; or amine oxides of cationic nature.
When cationic surfactants are present, their amount is preferably within the range from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 % to 5 % by weight and even more preferentially from 0.3 % to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The composition according to the present invention contains one or more sulfureous reducing agent(s) . These agents are preferably chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto groups (-SH), sulfites and sulfite derivatives.
Among the sulfite derivatives, bisulfites and sulfite diesters o f formula R-O- S O2-R' with R and R' denoting C i to C 1 0 alkyl groups are essentially denoted.
The organic compounds comprising a mercapto group are preferably chosen from the following compounds : thioglyco lic acid, thio lactic acid, cysteine, homocysteine , glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3 -mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethano l, dithiothreito l, thioxanthine, 10
thiosalicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, and thioglyco lic or thio lactic acid esters, and mixtures of these compounds.
The sulfureous reducing agent(s) may especially be used in the form o f salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as the sodium and potassium salts; alkaline-earth metal salts, for example the magnesium and calcium salts; the ammonium salts; the amine salts ; the amino alcohol salts.
In a particularly preferred manner, the sulfureous reducing agent(s) are chosen from: thioglyco lic acid and salts thereof, thio lactic acid and salts thereof, alkali metal sulfites and especially sodium sulfite, alkali metal bisulfites and especially sodium bisulfite, and precursors of these sulfites or bisulfites, such as sodium metabisulfite .
The sulfureous reducing agent(s) are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 5 % by weight and preferably from 0.3 % to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The alkaline agent used in the compositions according to the invention may be any agent for increasing the pH of the composition in which it is present. The alkaline agent may be a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base. It may be mineral or organic.
In particular, the alkaline agent may be chosen from:
a) aqueous ammonia,
b) alkano lamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropano lamine and 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, and also derivatives thereo f,
c) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, d) mineral or organic hydroxides,
e) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates,
f) amino acids, preferably basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine,
g) carbonates and bicarbonates particularly of a primary, secondary or tertiary amine, of an alkali metal, of an alkaline-earth metal or of ammonium, and
h) the compounds o f formula (III) below: 11
Rx Rz
\ /
N W N
Ry Rt (III) in which W is a C i -C6 alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C i -C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C i -C6 alkyl, C i -C6 hydroxyalkyl or C i -C6 aminoalkyl radical.
Examples of such compounds of formula (III) that may be mentioned include 1 ,3 -diaminopropane, 1 ,3 -diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
The mineral or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from: hydroxides o f an alkali metal; hydroxides of an alkaline-earth metal, for instance sodium or potassium hydroxide; hydroxides of a transition metal, such as hydroxides of metals from groups III, IV, V and VI of the Periodic Table of the Elements; lanthanide or actinide hydroxides; quaternary ammonium hydroxides, and guanidinium hydroxide.
The hydroxide may be formed in situ, for instance guanidine hydroxide, formed by reaction o f calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate.
The preferred alkaline agents are in particular aqueous ammonia, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, arginine, monoethano lamine and 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol.
The alkaline agent(s) as defined previously may represent, for example, from 0.001 % to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.005 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
The concentration of alkaline agent(s) is especially adjusted as a function o f the desired pH for the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 7 to 10 and more preferentially from 7 to 8. 12
Also advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more swelling agents or emo llients such as urea, glycols such as butylene glycol, hexylene glycol or propylene glyco l, sorbito l, melamine, guanidine or glycero l.
Also advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more conditioning agents.
Examples that may be mentioned include linear, cyclic, branched or unbranched, volatile or non-vo latile silicones. These silicones may be in the form o f oils, resins or gums; they may in particular be polyorganosiloxanes .
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll ' s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones ( 1968) Academic Press . They may be vo latile or non-vo latile
When they are vo latile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260° C .
Cationic po lymers especially such as polyquaterniums 22, 6, 10, 1 1 , 35 and 37 and hexadimethrine chloride are mo st particularly preferred as conditioning agent.
The concentration o f conditioning agent(s) in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.0 1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 % to 5 % by weight and even more preferentially from 0. 1 % to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of this composition.
The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic adjuvants.
For example, it may comprise one or more conventional additives that are well known in the art, such as hair-lo ss counteractants, oxidizing agents, ceramides and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, plant, animal, mineral or synthetic oils, fatty alcoho ls, waxes, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, nacreous agents, fragrances and preserving agents . 13
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged additions.
The above additives may in general be present in an amount for each o f them o f between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is non-colouring, i. e. it does not significantly modify the co louration o f the fibres onto which it is applied.
Another subj ect of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process that comprises the application to dry or wet hair of a composition as described above.
According to one preferred embodiment, such a process consists in applying the composition according to the present invention, and in optionally rinsing it out after an optional leave-on time .
According to one preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises the fo llowing steps :
- applying the composition according to the invention to wet hair, and then
- leaving the composition on the hair, allowing a leave-on time that may range from 5 seconds to 60 minutes and preferably from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, at a temperature that may range from room temperature (about 25 °C) to 230°C and preferably from room temperature to 60°C , and even more preferably at room temperature, and then
- rinsing the hair with water.
The hair may then be dried, for examp le under a hood or a hair dryer, or may be left to dry in the open air.
It is also possible to perform a step of placing the hair under tension, for example using a brush, a comb or tongs, at the time when 14
the hair is in contact with the composition according to the invention, or after rinsing it.
It is also possible to replace this step of placing under tension with a step of working the head o f hair by hand or with a comb .
However, and this constitutes an advantage o f the present invention, as soon as the composition is first applied, including its application without placing the hair under tension, a substantial reduction in the vo lume o f the head of hair is observed. When the hair is curly, relaxing of the curls and/or better curl definition thereo f is also observed.
According to one preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is repeated one or more times, until the desired level of smoothing is obtained.
Thus, a subj ect of the present invention is also a process for relaxing hair curls and/or for reducing the volume of the hair, which consists in applying the composition according to the invention one or more times to the hair. According to one preferred embodiment, the composition is applied several times, either consecutively or after a delay ranging from a few hours to a few days, each application being fo llowed by rinsing, until the desired level o f relaxation and/or vo lume reduction is obtained.
The application of the composition according to the invention may be fo llowed by the application o f a rinse-out or leave-on hair care optionally containing a reducing agent.
A subj ect of the present invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention.
This composition may be advantageously used for hair detergency, for smoothing the hair or for a combined effect of detergency and smoothing.
In particular, the composition according to the invention may be applied before or after a smoothing or a standard permanent-waving treatment of the hair with or without fixing, in order to facilitate this treatment or to reinforce its efficacy (smoothing "booster" effect) . 15
It may also be applied after a standard smoothing treatment, so as to maintain the smoothing o f the hair, which makes it possible, for example, to space out the smoothing treatments generally performed with more aggressive compositions .
It may also be app lied after a permanent-waving treatment, to modulate the degree of curliness .
The examp le that fo llows is given purely as an illustration o f the present invention.
EXAMPLE :
Two shampoo compositions A and B, in accordance with the invention, were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below (in which the contents are indicated in grams of active material) :
Figure imgf000017_0001
The above shampoo compositions were applied to heads of curly and/or voluminous hair, in the fo llowing manner: 12 to 15 g of 16
shampoo were applied to the wet head of hair, i. e. premoistened and drained using a terry towel.
The shampoo was then spread out carefully by massaging the head o f hair.
After a leave-on time ranging from 2 to 5 minutes, the hair was rinsed thoroughly with water and then towel-dried, disentangled with a comb and dried with a hair dryer.
The Applicant found that the hair was clean, and showed a marked reduction in the vo lume of the head of hair. As regards curly hair, it was also found that the hair curls were more relaxed, with better curl definition.
The above treatment process may be repeated three times consecutively on the same head o f hair. Accentuated results are then observed.

Claims

17 CLAIMS
1 . Cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
a) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), b) one or more anionic surfactant(s) chosen from those comprising at least one phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate function,
c) one or more sulfureous reducing agent(s),
d) one or more alkaline agent(s), and
e) one or more surfactants chosen from alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpo lyglucosides in which the alkyl group comprises from 8 to
30 carbon atoms .
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from: secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group ; (C8 - C2o)alkylbetaines; sulfobetaines; (C8 - C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkyl- betaines; and (C8 - C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines; and preferably from (C8 - C2o)alkylbetaines and (C8 - C2o)alkylamido(C6- C8)alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 25 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 1 5 % by weight and better still from 1 % to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate function are chosen from the salts o f the fo llowing compounds : alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, cc-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfo succinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, 18 alkylsulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkyl phosphates and alkyl ether phosphates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group, these compounds possibly being monooxyethylenated or polyoxyethylenated and comprising up to 50 oxyethylene units; and are preferably chosen from (Cs- C i 8)alkyl sulfates and (Cs- C i 8)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 0 to 20 oxyethylene units, and mixtures of these compounds.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate function in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 25 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 %> to 1 5 % by weight and better still from 1 % to 7% by weight relative to the total weight o f the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant(s) chosen from alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides are chosen from those in which the alkyl group comprises from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains the said glucoside(s) in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 25 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 15 % by weight and more preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains one or more anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one carboxylate function, other than the anionic surfactants (b), chosen from the salts of the fo llowing compounds : polyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkyl(C6 - C24)aryl ether carboxylic acids and po lyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, these acids comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and preferably from the salts o f polyoxyalkylenated (C6 - C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units. 19
9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it contains the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one carboxylate function in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 25 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 1 5 % by weight and better still from 1 % to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sulfureous reducing agent(s) are chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto groups (-SH), sulfites and sulfite derivatives .
1 1 . Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the sulfureous reducing agent(s) are chosen from: thioglycolic acid and salts thereof, thiolactic acid and salts thereo f, alkali metal sulfites, alkali metal bisulfites, and precursors of alkali metal sulfites or bisulfites.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains the sulfureous reducing agent(s) in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 5 % by weight and preferably from 0.3 % to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkaline agent is chosen from:
a) aqueous ammonia,
b) alkanolamines and also derivatives thereof,
c) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, d) mineral or organic hydroxides,
e) alkali metal silicates,
f) amino acids, preferably basic amino acids,
g) carbonates and bicarbonates particularly of a primary, secondary or tertiary amine, of an alkali metal, of an alkaline-earth metal or of ammonium, and
h) the compounds o f formula (III) below :
Rx Rz
\ /
N W N
Ry Rt (III) 20 in which W is a Ci-C6 alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a Ci-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6 alkyl, Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl or Ci-C6 aminoalkyl radical.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises one or more swelling agents or emollients and/or one or more conditioning agents.
15. Process for relaxing hair curls and/or for reducing the volume of the hair, which consists in applying a composition according to any one of the preceding claims one or more times to the hair, optionally before or after a smoothing or permanent-waving treatment of the hair.
PCT/EP2010/068944 2009-12-10 2010-12-06 Detergent, smoothing cosmetic hair composition, and cosmetic treatment process using the said composition WO2011069949A2 (en)

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