WO2012032671A1

WO2012032671A1 - Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers

Info

Publication number: WO2012032671A1
Application number: PCT/JP2010/065881
Authority: WO
Inventors: Daisuke Misu; Hidetoshi Yamada
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2010-09-08
Filing date: 2010-09-08
Publication date: 2012-03-15
Also published as: JP5816270B2; JP2013537166A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers comprising: (a) at least one liquid fatty component; (b) at least one solid fatty component; (c) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 17; (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and (e) at least one oxidizing agent, wherein the total amount of the (a) liquid fatty component ( s ) and the (b) solid fatty component (s) is 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the weight ratio of the amount of the (a) liquid fatty component (s) /the amount of the (b) solid fatty component (s) is 3 or less, the amount of the (b) solid fatty component (s) is 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of the (c) nonionic surf actant (s) having an HLB value of 12 to 17 is 0.01 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention is useful because the oxidative cosmetic composition according to the present invention has improved quality while maintaining good cosmetic performance, for example, effective coloring or bleaching or perming, of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, particularly without causing another odor and exceeding safety limits.

Description

DESCRIPTION

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR KERATIN FIBERS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair.

BACKGROUND ART

In cosmetics, in the areas of dyeing, bleaching or long-lasting deformation of keratin fibres, and in particular of human keratin fibres such as hair, oxidizing compositions are used.

Thus, in oxidation dyeing of the hair, oxidizing compositions are mixed with oxidation dyes (bases and couplers) , which are colourless in themselves, to produce coloured and colouring compounds by a process of oxidative condensation. Oxidizing compositions are also used in direct dyeing of the hair mixed with certain direct dyes which are coloured and colouring, to obtain coloration with a hair lightening effect. Among the oxidizing agents used conventionally for the dyeing of keratin fibres, mention may be made of hydrogen peroxide or compounds that can produce hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide. Persalts such as perborates and persulphates can also be used. Hydrogen peroxide is more particularly preferred.

This composition containing the oxidation dyes can also contain alkaline agents (amines or ammonia) . This composition is then mixed at the time of use with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide .

These compositions can also be formed from anhydrous products that contain alkaline compounds (amines and alkaline silicates) , and a peroxidized reagent such as persulphates, perborates or percarbonates , of ammonium or of alkali metals, which are diluted at the moment of use with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide .

In long-lasting deformation of the hair, first the disulphide bonds -S-S- of the keratin (cystine) are opened using a

composition containing a suitable reducing agent (reduction stage) then, after rinsing the hair thus treated, secondly the disulphide bonds are reconstituted by applying, on the hair previously put under tension (curlers etc.), an oxidizing composition (oxidation stage, also called fixation) so as finally to give the hair the desired form. This technique thus makes it possible to carry out either waving or straightening of the hair. The new shape imposed on the hair by chemical treatment as described above is extremely long-lasting and notably withstands the action of washing with water or shampoos, in contrast to the simple conventional techniques of temporary waving, such as a water wave.

The oxidizing compositions required for application of the fixation stage are generally compositions based on hydrogen peroxide .

The introduction of a large amount of oily compounds into oxidizing compositions for dyeing and/or bleaching and/or permanent deformation of keratin fibres makes it possible to improve the effectiveness of the active agents.

However, the introduction of a large amount of oily compounds into the oxidizing composition results in a destabilization of the composition, which undergoes phase separation after a few days .

For example, US2010158844 describes a composition for the

treatment of keratin fibres, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, fatty alcohols; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols; oxidizing agents; and at least 10 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of oils other than fatty alcohols; the fatty alcohol/oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol weight ratio being less than or equal to 5. This oxidative composition does^' not provide total satisfaction, particularly in terms of bleaching efficacy and/or facility of use.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide stable

Oxidative compositions over time while maintaining good cosmetic performance, such as effective coloring, bleaching or perming, of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, without causing another odor and safety limit.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers comprising:

(a) at least one liquid fatty component;

(b) at least one solid fatty component;

(c) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 17;

(d) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and (e) at least one oxidizing agent,

wherein

the total amount of the (a) liquid fatty component (s) and the (b) solid fatty component (s) is 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

the weight ratio A of the amount of the (a) liquid fatty

component (s ) /the amount of the (b) solid fatty component (s) is 3 or less,

the amount of the (b) solid fatty component (s) is 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of the (c) nonionic surfactant ( s ) having an HLB value of 12 to 17 is 0.01 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferable that the total amount of the (a) liquid fatty component (s) and the (b) solid fatty component (s) be 40 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferable that the amount of the (d) amphoteric

surfactant ( s ) be 0.01 to 3.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) liquid fatty component may be selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbons, provided that they are liquid at ambient temperature (25 °C) and under

atmospheric pressure ( 10⁵Pa) .

The (b) solid fatty component may be selected from the group consisting of fats of animal or plant origin, mineral fats, synthetic fats, silicone compounds and hydrocarbons, provided that they are solid at ambient temperature ( 25 °C) and under atmospheric pressure (10⁵Pa) .

The (c) nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 17 may be selected from the group consisting of alcohols, alpha-diols, and alkylphenols that are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have at least one fatty chain; copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides; polyglycerolated fatty amides;

ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; fatty acid esters of sucrose; ethoxylated oils from natural origin; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; (C₆-C₂4 ) alkylpolyglycosides ; N- (C₆- C24) alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides; and N-(Ci₀- Ci₄) acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides, provided that they have an HLB value of 12 to 17. It is preferable that the (c) nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 17 be selected from condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, having an HLB value of 12 to 17.

The (d) amphoteric surfactant may be selected from betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives .

It is preferable that the (d) amphoteric surfactant be selected from the group consisting of (C₈-C₂4 ) alkylbetaines, (C₈- C2 ) alkylamido (Ci-Cs) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines , (C₈- C2 ) alkylamido (Ci-C₈) alkylsulfobetaines, (C₈-C₂4 ) -alkyl

amphomonoacetates, (C₈-C₂4 ) alkyl amphodiacetates, (C₈-C₂4 ) alkyl amphomonopropionates, (C8-C₂₄ ) alkyl amphodipropionates and phosphobetaines .

The (e) oxidizing agent may be hydrogen peroxide.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 12.

The amount of the (f) nonionic surfactant ( s ) having an HLB value of less than 12 may be 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (f) nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 12 may be selected from the group consisting of alcohols, alpha- diols, alkylphenols or fatty acids that are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have at least one fatty chain; copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or ^"of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides; polyglycerolated fatty amides; polyethoxylated fatty amines; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; ethoxylated oils of natural origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; fatty acid mono or diesters of C2-C3 polyols; (C₆- C2 ) alkylpolyglycosides; N- (C₆-C₂₄) alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides; and N- (Ci₀-C₁₄) acylamino-propylmorpholine oxides, provided that they have an HLB value of less than 12.

It is preferable that the (f) nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 12 be selected from condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, provided that they have an HLB value of 12 to 17. BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

The inventors performed diligent research and found that a cosmetic composition for oxidizing keratin fibers, which can be used in combination with another cosmetic composition including alkaline agent (s) other than ammonia, can be improved to enhance the cosmetic performance of coloring or bleaching or perming keratin fibers.

According to the present invention, improvement of the cosmetic composition for oxidizing keratin fibers such as hair can be achieved by specific conditions of the type and the amount- of components in the cosmetic composition..

Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is characterized by comprising:

(a) at least one liquid fatty component;

(b) at least one solid fatty component;

(c) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 17;

(d) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and

(e) at least one oxidizing agent,

wherein

the weight ratio A of the amount of the (a) liquid fatty

component (s) /the amount of the (b) solid fatty component (s) is 3 or less,

Hereinafter, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.

(1) Fatty Components

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one liquid fatty component and at least one solid fatty component.

Here, "liquid" and "solid" mean that the fatty component is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) or solid, respectively, at ambient temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10⁵Pa) .

In the scope of the invention, it has to be noted that fatty components differ from surfactants such as polyalkoxylated

(polyethoxylated or polyoxypropylenated) , polyglycerolated

compounds and mono or diglycerides .

The liquid fatty component may be selected from the group

consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils such as ester oils other than animal or plant oils and artificial triglycerides, silicone oils and hydrocarbons, in particular aliphatic hydrocarbons, provided that they are liquid at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The solid fatty component may be selected from the group

consisting of fats of animal or plant origin, mineral fats, synthetic fats such as fatty ester other than animal or plant fats and artificial triglycerides, silicone compounds and

hydrocarbons, in particular aliphatic hydrocarbons, provided that they are solid at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure .

As examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin) , paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and

decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane,

methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as

octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

As examples of vegetable oils, mention may be made of, for

example, linseed oil, camellia^' oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane. As examples of ester oils , mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri ( 2-ethylhexanoate ) , pentaerythrithyl tetra (2-ethylhexanoate) , 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty component may be at least one fatty acid. Two or more fatty acids may be used. The fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated and contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in

particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are more particularly chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. Preferably the fatty component is not a fatty acid.

The fatty component may be at least one higher alcohol. Two or more higher alcohols may be used.

The term "higher alcohol" here means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty alcohol.

Among the Cg-C₃o fatty alcohols, C12-C22 fatty alcohols, for

example, are used. Mention may be made among these of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as myristyl alcohol, can be used as a solid fatty component. In another embodiment, isostearyl alcohol can be used as a liquid fatty component.

The fatty component may be a wax. Here, "wax" means that the fatty compound is substantially in the form of a solid at. room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) , and has · a melting point generally of 35°C or more. As the waxy fatty component, waxes generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof.

For example, the wax may be chosen from carnauba wax,

microcrystalline waxes, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene waxes such as the wax sold under the name

"Performalene 400 Polyethylene" by the company New Phase Technologies, silicone waxes, for instance poly(C₂₄- C₂₈ ) alkylmethyldimethylsiloxane, such as the product sold under the name "Abil Wax 9810" by the company Goldschmidt, palm butter, the C₂o-C₄₀ alkyl stearate sold under the name "Kester Wax K82H" by the company Kester Keunen, stearyl benzoate, shellac wax, and mixtures thereof. For example, a wax chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil and

polyethylene waxes is used. In at least one embodiment, the wax is preferably chosen from candelilla wax and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

According to the present invention, at least one liquid and at least one solid fatty component are selected from the above fatty compounds or substances .

According to the present invention, the following conditions (i) to (iii) should be satisfied.

(1) The total amount of the liquid fatty component (s) and the solid fatty component (s) is 30 to 60% by weight, preferably 40 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

(ii) The amount of the solid fatty component (s) is 10 to 20% by weight, preferably 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

(iii) The weight ratio A of the amount of the liquid fatty component ( s ) /the amount of the solid fatty component (s) is 3 or less, preferably 2.9 or less.

If any of the above conditions (i) to (iii) is not satisfied, the cosmetic performance (e.g., coloring or bleaching efficiency) of the composition according to the present invention deteriorates.

(2) Nonionic Surfactants

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention includes at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of- 12 to 17. Two or more non-ionic surfactants may be used, as long as they have an HLB' value of 12 to 17.

It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 17 be selected from the group consisting of alcohols, alpha-diols, or alkylphenols that are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have at least one fatty chain; copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide;

condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides; polyglycerolated fatty amides; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; fatty acid esters of sucrose; ethoxylated oils from natural origin;

fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; (C₅- C24) alkylpolyglycosides; N- (C₆-C₂4 ) alkylglucamine derivatives;

amine oxides; and N- (Ci₀-Ci₄) acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides, provided that they have an HLB value of 12 to 17.

These are compounds well known in themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols,

alkylphenols and fatty acids that are polyethoxylated,

polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of

glycerol groups to range from 2 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide,

condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid^' esters of polyethylene glycol, _. (C₆- C24) alkylpolyglycosides, N- (C₆-C₂4 ) alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C₁₀-Ci₄) alkylamine oxides or N- (Ci₀- C₁₄ ) acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and mixtures thereof.

Alkylpolyglucosides may comprise an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and for instance from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and comprising a hydrophilic (glucoside) group comprising 1, 2 or 3 saccharide units. Among these alkylpolyglucosides, non- limiting mention may be made of decylglucoside (Cg/Cn

alkylpolyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals, under the name Plantaren 2000 UP® by the company Cognis, and under the name Oramix NS 10® by the company Seppic; caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110® by the company Seppic; laurylglucoside such as the product sold under the names

Plantaren 1200 N® and Plantacare 1200® by the company Cognis; and cocoglucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP® by the company Cognis. The maltose derivatives are, for example, those described in

European Patent Application, Publication No. EP-A-566438, such as O-octanoyl-6 ' -D-maltose, or else the O-dodecanoyl-6 ' -D-maltose described in French Patent FR-2 , 739, 556.

Among the polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, non-limiting mention may be made of polyglycerolated dodecanediol (3.5 mol of

glycerol) , a product produced under the name Chimexane NF® by the company Chimex.

Fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol may be chosen from, for example glycerolated esters of polyethylene glycol, for instance the mixture PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate/PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate (CTFA name) , such as the commercial product Rewoderm LI S80 by the company Degussa Care Specialties.

It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 17 be selected from condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, having an HLB value of 12 to 17. More preferably, the condensates are

polyethyleneglycol and/or polypropyleneglycol ethers of fatty alcohol having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

As examples of the condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of

propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, having an HLB value of 12 to 17, mention may be made of polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers,

polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ethers, polyoxyethylene- polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers and polyoxyethylene- polyoxypropylene alkyl phenyl ethers.

As examples of non-ionic surfactants having an HLB value of 12 to 17, mention may be made of, in particular, Laureth-9, PPG-2- Deceth-10, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Ceteth-12, PEG-12 Isostearate, Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-15 Glyceryl Isostearate, Octyldodeceth-16, PEG-20 Dilaurate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Diisostearate, PEG-40- Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 Castor Oil, PEG-50

Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-50 Glyceryl Trioleate, PEG-50

Hydrogenated Castor Oil Laurate, Sorbitan Cocoate, Laureth-10, Isosteareth-15, Oleth-15, Steareth-15, Decyltetradeceth-20 ,

Choleth-20, Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-30, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PCA Isostearate, PEG-15 Glyceryl Stearate, Beheneth-20, PPG-2 Deceth-12, Isoceteth-15 , Ceteth-15, Octyldodeceth-20 ,

Choleth-24, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-50 Castor Oil, PEG-60 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-60 Glyceryl Trioleate, PEG-60 Hydogenated Castor Oil Laurate, Laureth-12, PPG-2 Deceth-15,

Ceteth-17, Isosteareth-20, Oleth-20, Steareth-20, PEG-20 Glyceryl Isostearate, Decyltetradeceth-25, Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth- 40, PEG-12 Laurate, Laureth-15, Isoceteth-20, Ceteth-20, PEG-20 Isostearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, Oleth-23 Polysorbate 80, Octyldodeceth-25, PEG-25 Glyceryl isostearate, Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate, Beheneth-30, Choleth-30, PEG 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2 Deceth-20, Isosteareth-25, Steareth-25, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, PEG-60 Glyceryl

Diisostearate, Ceteth-25, Laureth-20, Isoceteth-25, Ceteth-30, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-60, PEG-80 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-20 Sorbitan Cocoate, PEG-40 Glyceryl Isostearate PEG-100 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Laureth-25, PPG-2 Deceth-30, Steareth-40, PEG-40 Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Dimer

Dilinoleth-80, Laureth-30, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-40 Sorbitan Oleate, Oleth-50, PEG-50 Glyceryl Isostearate, Laureth-50, PEG- 150 Distearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Ceteareth-25 and Ceteareth-33.

The amount of the non-ionic surfactant ( s ) having an HLB value of 12 to 17 is 0.01 wt% to 2.5 wt%, preferably 0.10 wt% to 1.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further include at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 12. Two or more non-ionic surfactants may be used, as long as they have an HLB value of less than 12.

It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 12 be selected from the group consisting of alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or fatty acids that are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have a least one fatty chain; copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of

propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides; polyglycerolated fatty amides; polyethoxylated fatty amines; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; ethoxylated oils from natural origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; fatty acid mono or diesters of C₂-C₃ polyols; (C₆-C₂4 ) alkylpolyglycosides ; N-(C₆- C2 ) alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides; and N- (C₁₀- C14) acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides, provided that they have an HLB value of less than 12.

It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 12 be selected from condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, having an HLB value of less than 12. More preferably, the condensates are polyethyleneglycol and/or polypropyleneglycol ethers of fatty alcohol having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

As example of the condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of

propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, having an HLB value of less than 12, mention may be made of polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ethers, polyoxyethylene- polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers and polyoxyethylene- polyoxypropylene alkyl phenyl ethers.

As examples of non-ionic surfactants having an HLB value of less than 12, mention may be made of, in particular, PEG-40

Hydrogenated Castor Oil Laurate, PEG-40 Glyceryl Trioleate, PEG- 40 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-30 Castor Oil, PEG-30

Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-16 Dilaurate, Choleth-15,

Decyltetradeceth-15, Oleth-12, PEG-10 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-10 Oleate, PEG-10 Stearate, PEG-10 Isostearate, Ceteth-10,

Isoceteth-10, Laureth-7, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PCA

Isostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate,

Steareth-11, Isosteareth-10, Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleth-20, Oleth-10, PPG-2 Deceth-7, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Triisostearate, PEG-10 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, PEG-12 Dilaurate, Octyldodeceth-10, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PCA Isostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Laurate, PEG- 30 Glyceryl Trioleate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Choleth-10, PEG-8 Glyceryl Isostearate, Oleth-8, Ceteth-7, Laureth-5,

Beheneth-10, Sorbitan Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG- 20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, PPG-2 Deceth-5, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitan Stearate, Decyltetradeceth-10, PEG-6 Oleate, PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-5 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-40

Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-6 Glyceryl

Isostearate, Steareth-6, Oleth-6, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Laurate, PEG-12 Diisostearate, PEG-8 Dilaurate, PEG-5 Stearate, Ceteth-5, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Trioleate, PEG-20 Tristearate, PEG- 20 Triisostearate, PEG-12 Dioleate, PEG-12 Distearate,

Polyglyceryl-6 Diisostearate, PEG-5 Glyceryl Isostearate,

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate,

Polyglyceryl-10 Triisostearate, Steareth-12 Stearate,

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Steareth-5, Oleth-5, Laureth-3, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-6 Dilaurate, Choleth- 5, Octyldodeceth-5, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate, Beheneth-5, PEG-3 Isostearate, Dioctyldodeceth-5 lauroyl glutamate, PEG-8 Dioleate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-8 Diisostearate, Decyltetradeceth-5, Ceteth-3, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-7

Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-3 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-20

Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, Oleth-3, Steareth-3, PEG-

10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-6 Diisostearate,.

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, PEG-4 Dilaurate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-2 Stearate, Propylene Glycol Laurate, PEG-10 Glyceryl

Trioleate, PEG-10 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG- 6 Dioleate, PEG-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3

Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-10 Glyceryl Tristearate,

Ceteth-2, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate,

Steareth-2, Disteareth-2 Lauroyl Glutamate, Polyglyceryl-2

Diisostearate, Dioctyldodeceth-2 Lauroyl Glutamate, PEG-4

Dioleate, PEG-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Glycol Stearate, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-4

Glyceryl Distearate, PEG-4 Distearate, Hexyldecyl Myristoyl

Methylaminopropionate, Propyleneglycol Stearate, PEG-10

Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-4 Trimethylolpropane Distearate, PEG-2 Dilaurate, PEG-6 Glyceryl Tristearate, PEG-5 Trimethylolpropane Trimyristate, Dihexyldecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, PEG-3 Diisostearate, PEG-5 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-5

Glyceryl Trioleate, PEG-5 Tristearate, Dioctyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Dioctyldodecyl Stearoyl Glutamate, PEG-2 Diisostearate, Propyleneglycol Dioleate, Propyleneglycol Distearate, Glycol

Distearate, Glycol Dioleate, Propyleneglycol Diisostearate, PEG-4 Glyceryl Tristearate, PEG-2 Distearate, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor

011 Triisostearate, Propyleneglycol Dilaurate, Glycol Dilaurate, PEG-3 Glyceryl Trioleate, and PEG-3 Glyceryl Triisostearate.

Preferably, the HLB value of these surfactants is in the range from 1. to less than 12 and more preferably in the range from 4.5 to 11.5.

The amount of the non-ionic surfactant (s) having an HLB value of less than 12 may be 1 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably 3 wt% to 7 wt%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

(3) Amphoteric Surfactants

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two or more of the amphoteric surfactants may be used.

The amphoteric surfactant is not limited. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (nonlimiting list) , amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the

aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate) .

Among the amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference) , under the names

Amphocarbdxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures:

Ri-CO HCHzCHs-N^Rz) (R₃) (CH₂COO^~)

in which:

Ri denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in

hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,

R₂ denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

R₃ denotes a carboxymethyl group; and

Ri ' -CONHCH₂CH₂-N (B) (C)

in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX',

C represents -(CH₂)_Z-Y', with z=l or 2,

X' denotes a -CH₂CH₂-COOH group, -CH₂-COOZ' , -CH₂CH₂-COOH, -CH₂CH₂- COOZ' or a hydrogen atom,

Y' denotes -C00H, -COOZ' , -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃Z ' or a -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃H radical,

Z' represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion issued from an organic amine, and

Ri* denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri ¹ -COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C₇, C₉, O or C_i3 alkyl radical, a Ci₇ alkyl radical and its iso form, or an unsaturated C_i radical.

It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be selected from (C₈-C₂4 ) -alkyl amphomonoacetates , (Cg-C₂4 ) alkyl amphodiacetates, (C₈-C₂4 ) alkyl amphomonopropionates , and (C8-C2 ) alkyl

amphodipropionates

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th

edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate,

Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid and Cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie .

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant may be a betaine.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines,

alkylamidoalkylbetaines , sulfobetaines , phosphobetaines, and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines , in particular, (C₈-C₂₄) alkylbetaines, (C₈-C₂₄) alkylamido (Ci-C₈) alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines , and (C₈- C24) alkylamido (Ci_C₈) alkylsulphobetaines . In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (C₈- C₂₄) alkylbetaines, (C₈-C₂4 ) alkylamido (Ci-C₈) alkylsulphobetaines, sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.

Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine,

coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine,

palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine,

cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine,

oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine,

laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an

alkylbetaine and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular

cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

The amount of the amphoteric surfactant ( s ) may be 0.01 wt% to 3wt%, preferably 0.10 wt% to 0.40 wt%, and more preferably 0.2 wt% to 0.30 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

( 4) Oxidizing Agent

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent. Two or more oxidizing agents may be used.

The oxidizing agent may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide,

peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be chosen from aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and ferricyanides and persalts such as perborates and persulphates . At least one oxidase enzyme chosen, for example, from laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron

oxidoreductases such as uricase may also be used as the oxidizing agent, where appropriate in the presence of the respective donor or co-factor thereof.

It is preferable that the oxidizing agent be hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing agent's concentration may range from 0.1 wt% to 20 wt¾, such as from 5 wt% to 15 wt%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, the composition may comprise at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, which may be chosen, for example, from alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal stannates, phenacetin and salts of acids and of oxyquinoline, for example, oxyquinoline sulphate. In another embodiment, at least one stannate optionally in combination with at least one pyrophosphate is used.

It is also possible to use salicylic acid and its salts,

pyridinedicarboxylic acid and its salts, and paracetamol.

In the cosmetic composition, the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide stabilizer may range from 0.0001 wt% to 5 wt% such as from 0.01 wt% to 2 wt% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In the composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, the

concentration ratio of the hydrogen peroxide to the stabilizer may range from 0.05:1 to 1,000:1, such as from 0.1:1 to 500:1 and further such as from 1:1 to 300:1.

(5) Other Components

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise an aqueous medium.

The medium in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise water. The amount of water may be 65 wt% or less, preferably 5 wt% to 50 wt%, more preferably 10 wt% to 45wt%, and further more preferably 20 wt% to 40wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous medium may further comprise at least one organic solvent. The organic solvent is preferably water-miscible . As the organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example, C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; glycols and glycol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol,

monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monoethyl ether and

monomethyl ether of diethylene glycol, and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol , analogous products and mixtures thereof.

The organic solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 1 to 40 wt%, preferably from 1 to 30 wt%, and more preferably from 5 to 20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional surfactant selected from anionic and cationic surfactants. Two or more additional surfactants may be used.

The amount of the additional surfactant ( s ) may range from 0.001 to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt%, and more preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the

composition .

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other agents, known

previously elsewhere in oxidation dyeing, such as various common adjuvants, for instance sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, UV screening agents, silicones other than those mentioned before such as organomodified silicones (such as with amine groups) , preserving agents, ceramides, pseudoceramides , vitamins or provitamins, for instance panthenol, opacifiers, etc.

The form of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as an O/ emulsion, a W/O emulsion, an aqueous gel, an aqueous solution, or the like. The form of an O/W emulsion is preferable.

The viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited. The viscosity can be measured at 25°C with the Rheomat 180 measuring device at 200 rpm (revolutions per minute) . The Rheomat 180 is equipped with a different rotor according to the viscosities, for example with a rotor 3 for the range of viscosities from 0.2 to 4 Pa.s, and with a rotor 4 for the range of viscosities greater than 2 Pa.s. This viscosity is generally measured 10 minutes after the rotation of the rotor has begun. When measured under the conditions

indicated above, the viscosity of- the cosmetic composition according to the invention can range, for example, from 1 to 2000 Pa.s, and preferably from 1 to 1000 Pa . s .

The pH of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is usually from 1.5 to 12. It can range preferably from 1.5 to 7, preferably 2 to 6, and may be adjusted to the desired value using at least one acidifying agent that is well known in the prior art.

The acidifying agents can be, for example, mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or sulphonic acids.

When used in a hair dyeing or hair bleaching process, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be used by being mixed with another separate cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkaline agent, and optionally at least one coloring substance such as an oxidation dye and/or a direct dye .

In this case, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention and the separate cosmetic composition may be formulated into a multi-compartment, system or kit in which a first

compartment comprises the cosmetic composition according to the present invention and a second or subsequent compartment

comprises the separate cosmetic composition. The multicompartment system may be equipped with a means for mixing and/or applying the above compositions such as a valve and a nozzle.

The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of alkaline metal salts; alkaline earth metal salts; alkaline metal hydroxides; and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.

As examples of the inorganic alkaline metal hydroxides, mention may be made of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. As examples of the alkaline earth metal hydroxides, mention may be made of calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is preferable.

The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of monoamines and derivatives thereof; diamines and derivatives thereof; polyamines and derivatives thereof;

basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; oligomers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; polymers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.

As examples of the organic alkaline agents, mention may be made of alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: - W- N

wherein denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and R_a, R_b, R_c and R_d independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3- propanediamine and derivatives thereof. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine are preferable.

According to one embodiment, the alkaline agent is an

alkanolamine and preferably monoethanolamine.

The alkaline agent may be used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ready to use composition.

The oxidation dye can be selected from oxidation bases, oxidation couplers, and the acid addition salts thereof.

The oxidation base can be selected from those conventionally known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of ortho- and para-phenylenediamines, double bases, ortho- and para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the acid addition salts thereof.

Among the para-phenylenediamines there may be mentioned more particularly para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2- chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2 , 3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2, 6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2, 6-diethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2, 5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N- dimethylpara-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, -diethyl-3- methylaniline, N, -bis ( β-hydroxyethyl) -paraphenylenediamine, 4- Ν,Ν-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis (β- hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- -hydroxyethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-paraphenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl- para-phenylenediamine, N- ( β-hydroxypropyl ) -paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methylpara- phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl-β-hydroxyethyl) -paraphenylenediamine , N- ( β , γ-dihydroxypropyl ) -para-phenylenediamine , N- (4' -aminophenyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β- acetylamino-ethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N- ( β-methoxyethyl ) - para-phenylenediamine, 2-methyl-l-N^-hydroxyethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N- (4-aminophenyl) -3-hydroxy-pyrrolidine, 2- [ {2- [ (4-Aminophenyl) amino] ethyl} (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -ethanol, and their addition salts with an acid.

Most particularly preferred are para-phenylenediamine, para- tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-β- hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2^-hydroxyethyloxy-para- phenylenediamine, 2 , 6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6- diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 , 3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, -bis ( β-hydroxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine, and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the double bases, there may be mentioned more particularly N, ' -bis ( β-hydroxyethyl ) -N, N' -bis ( 4 ' -aminophenyl ) -1 , 3- diaminopropanol, N, N' -bis ( β-hydroxyethyl ) -N, N' -bis ( 4 ' - aminophenyl ) ethylenediamine, N, ' -bis ( 4-aminophenyl ) - tetramethylenediamine, N, N' -bis ( β-hydroxyethyl ) -N, ' -bis ( 4- aminophenyl ) tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl ) tetramethylenediamine, N, N' -bis (ethyl ) -N, N' - bis (4' -amino-3' -methylphenyl ) ethylene-diamine, 1, 8-bis (2, 5- diaminophenoxy) -3, 5-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts with an acid.

Among these double bases of formula (II), N, N' -bis ( β- hydroxyethyl) -N, N' -bis (4' -aminophenyl) -1, 3-diaminopropanol, 1, 8- bis (2, 5-diaminophenoxy) -3, 5-dioxaoctane or one of their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.

Among the para-aminophenols, there may be mentioned more

particularly para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3- fluorophenol , 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol , 4-amino-2- methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( β- hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, and their addition salts with an acid. The ortho-aminophenols which can be used as oxidation bases in the context of the present invention are chosen in particular from 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-l-hydroxy-5-methylbenzene, 2-amino hydroxy-6-methylbenzene, 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the heterocyclic bases which can be used as oxidation bases in the dyeing compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the pyridine derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the compounds described for example in Patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, such as 2 , 5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4- methoxyphenyl ) amino-3-aminopyridine, 2, 3-diamino-6- methoxypyridine, 2- ( β-methoxyethyl ) amino-3-amino-6- methoxypyridine, 3 , 4-diaminopyridine, and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the compounds described, for example, in Patents DE 2 359 399; JP 88-169571; JP 91-10659 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2, 4, 5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2, 5, 6- triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4 , 5 , 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4- dihydroxy-5 , 6-diaminopyrimidine , 2, 5, 6-triamino-pyrimidine, and the pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives such as those mentioned in patent application FR-A-2 750 048, among which there may be mentioned pyrazolo [1, 5-a] -pyrimidine-3 , 7-diamine; 2, 5-dimethyl- pyrazolo [1, 5-a] -pyrimidine-3, 7-diamine; pyrazolo [1,5- a] pyrimidine-3 , 5-diamine ; 2 , 7-dimethylpyrazolo [ 1 , 5-a] pyrimidine- 3,5-diamine; 3-aminopyrazolo [ 1 , 5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol; 3-amino- pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol; 2- (3-amino-pyrazolo- [1,5- a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol, 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5- a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol, 2- [ (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5- a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxy-ethyl) amino] -ethanol, 2- [ (7- aminopyrazolo [ 1, 5-a] -pyrimidin-3-yl ) - ( 2- hydroxyethyl ) amino] ethanol, 5, 6-dimethylpyrazolo- [1,5- a] pyrimidine-3, 7-diamine, 2, 6-dimethylpyrazolo- [1, 5-a] pyrimidine- 3, 7-diamine, 2, 5, 7, N7-tetramethyl-pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidine-3, 7- diamine, 3-amino-5-methyl-7-imidazolylpropyl-aminopyrazolo [1,5- a] -pyrimidine, their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists, and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the pyrazole derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the compounds described in Patents DE 3 843 892, DE 4 133 957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A- 2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 such as 4 , 5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole,

3.4-diaminopyrazole, 4, 5-diamino-l- (4' -chlorobenzyl ) -pyrazole,

4.5-diamino-l, 3-dimethylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino-3-methyl-l- phenylpyrazole, 4 , 5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino- 1, 3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino-pyrazole, l-benzyl-4, 5-diamino-3-methyl- pyrazole, 4, 5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino- l-tertbutyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino-l- ( β-hydroxyethyl) -3- methylpyrazole, 4 , 5-diamino-l- ( -hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 4,5- diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4 , 5-diamino-l-ethyl-3- ( 4 ' - methoxyphenyl ) pyrazole, 4, 5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxy- methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole,

4 , 5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropyl-pyrazole, 4 , 5-diamino-3- methyl-l-isopropyl-pyrazole, 4-amino-5- (2' -aminoethyl) amino-1, 3- dimethylpyrazole, 3, 4 , 5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3 , 4 , 5- triamino-pyrazole, 3, 5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3, 5-diamino-4- ( β-hydroxy-ethyl ) amino-l-methylpyrazole, and their addition salts with an acid.

Among the heterocyclic bases which can be used as oxidation bases, there may be mentioned more particularly

diaminopyrazolopyrazolones and especially 2 , 3-diamino-6, 7- dihydro-lH, 5H- [pyrazolol, 2 , a] pyrazol-l-one (IV) and the addition salts of these diaminopyrazolopyrazolones with an acid.

The oxidation dye may be an oxidation coupler which can be

selected from those conventionally known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols , naphthols, heterocyclic

couplers and the acid addition salts thereof.

The heterocyclic couplers may be selected from the group

consisting of indole derivatives, indoline derivatives,, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolones, indazoles, benzimidazoles,

benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles, 1, 3-benzodioxoles, quinolines and their addition salts with an acid.

These couplers are more particularly chosen from 2, 4-diamino-l- ( β-hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, .5-Ν-(β- hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2-chloro-3- amino-6-methylphenol, 1, 3-dihydroxybenzene, 1, 3-dihydroxy-2- methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l, 3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-4- ( β- hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 1 , 3-diaminobenzene, 2- methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 1, 3- bis (2, 4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, sesamol, l-amino-2-methoxy-4 , 5- methylene-dioxybenzene, oi-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4- hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 6-hydroxy-indoline, 2,6- dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, l-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl- 3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3 , 6-dimethyl- pyrazolo [3, 2-c] -1, 2, 4-triazole, 2, 6-dimethylpyrazolo [1, 5-b] - 1, 2, 4-triazole and their addition salts with an acid.

In general, the addition acid salts of the oxidation bases and couplers are chosen in particular from hydrochlorides,

hydrobromides , sulphates, tartrates, lactates and acetates.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise an oxidation dye or dyes in an amount of 0.0001 to 20 wt%, preferably 0.0005 to 15 wt%, and more preferably 0.005 to 10 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the cosmetic composition applied to the keratin fibers may generally be, for example, from 4 to 12. When mixed with an alkaline agent, it can range from 6 to 12, preferably 7 to 11, and may be adjusted to the desired value using at least one acidifying agent that is well known in the prior art.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used in coloring or bleaching keratin fibers such as hair, by treating keratin fibers directly with the composition. After an exposure time of from approximately 1 to 60 minutes, the fibers are rinsed; and optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again and then dried or by a process comprising, the steps of:

applying to wet or dry keratin fibers a cosmetic composition which is prepared extemporaneously by mixing, just before application to the keratin fibers, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention and another separate cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkaline agent;

leaving the cosmetic composition to act for an exposure time, ranging approximately from 1 to 60 minutes, and preferably from approximately 5 to 45 minutes;

rinsing the fibers; and

optionally washing them with shampoo, rinsing them again and then drying them.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used in perming keratin fibers such as hair by a process comprising, for example, the steps of:

applying to wet or dry keratin fibers a cosmetic composition comprising reducing agents such as thioglycolic acid ; after an exposure time of approximately from 5 to 40 minutes, rinsing the keratin fibers, and then applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention. After an exposure time of from approximately 1 to 20 minutes, the fibers are rinsed; and optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again and then dried.

The application of the cosmetic compositions may be realized at room temperature or with the use of a warming device which is able to produce a temperature ranging from 40 to 220°C,

preferably ranging from 40 to 80°C.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Examples 1-14 and Comparative Examples 1-6

The following compositions according to Examples 1-14 and

Comparative Examples 1-6, shown in Tables 1-4, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Tables 1-4. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in the Tables are all based on the active ingredient's "% by weight".

[Bleaching Efficiency Evaluation]

Each formulation of Examples 1 and 2 as well as Comparative

Examples 1-7 was mixed with a cream having the composition shown in Table 2 in a weight ratio of 1.5:1. 1.0 g of the obtained mixture was applied on 1.0 g of a lock of natural Japanese black hair for 30 minutes at 27°C.

The hair lock was washed with warm water, and then shampooed once After being dried, ΔΕ (between the color of the original hair and the color of the bleached hair under L^*a^*b^* system) was determined by using a colorimeter (Konica-Minolta : CM-508d) . For color intensity, 3 experiments were repeated and the result was

calculated as the average of these 3 data.

Table 2

The bleaching efficiency was also determined in accordance with the following criteria.

ΔΕ

Less than 5: Low

Between 5 and 6: Medium

More than 6: High

The results of the evaluation are shown in Table 3. As shown in Table 3, the hair lock treated with Examples 1 and 2 showed higher bleaching efficiency than Comparative Examples 1-7. These results demonstrate that Examples 1 and 2 can provide the hair with better bleaching effects.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for keratin fibers comprising:

(a) at least one liquid fatty component;

(b) at least one solid fatty component;

(c) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 17;

(d) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and

(e) at least one oxidizing agent,

wherein

the weight ratio A of the amount of the (a) liquid fatty component ( s ) /the amount of the (b) solid fatty component (s) is 3 or less,

the amount of the (b) solid fatty component (s) is 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

the amount of the (c) nonionic surfactant ( s ) having an HLB value of 12 to 17 is 0.01 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, wherein the total amount of the (a) liquid fatty component (s) and the (b) solid fatty component (s) is 40 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (d) amphoteric surfactant (s ) is from 0.01 wt% to 3 wt%.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to

3, wherein the (a) liquid fatty component is selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbons, provided that they are liquid at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure.^■

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to

4, wherein the (b) solid fatty component is selected from the group consisting of fats of animal or plant origin, mineral fats, synthetic fats, silicone compounds and hydrocarbons, provided that they are solid at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to

5, wherein the (c) nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 17 is selected from the group consisting of alcohols, alpha-diols, and alkylphenols that are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have at least one fatty chain; copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides;

polyglycerolated fatty amides; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; fatty acid esters of sucrose; ethoxylated oils from natural origin; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; (C₆-C₂4 ) alkylpolyglycosides ; N- (C₆-C₂ ) alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides; and N- (C₁₀-

Ci₄) acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides, provided that they have an HLB value of 12 to 17.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to

6, wherein the (c) nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 17 is selected from condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, having an HLB value of 12 to 17.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to

7, wherein the (d) amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to

8, wherein the (d) amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of (C₈-C₂4 ) alkylbetaines , (C₈-

C₂4 ) alkylamido (Ci-Cs) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines , (C₈- C2 ) alkylamido (Ci-C₈) alkylsulfobetaines, (C₈-C₂₄) -alkyl

amphomonoacetates, (C₈-C₂₄) alkyl amphodiacetates, (C₈-C₂₄) alkyl amphomonopropionates, (C₈-C₂₄) alkyl amphodipropionates and phosphobetaines .

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to

9, wherein the (e) oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to

10, further comprising (f) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 12.

12. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 11, wherein the amount of the (f) nonionic surfactant ( s ) having an HLB value of less than 12 is 1 to 10% by weight relative to- the total weight of the composition.

13. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 11 or 12, wherein the (f) nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 12 is selected from the group consisting of alcohols, alpha- diols, alkylphenols or fatty acids that are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have at least one fatty chain; copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides;

polyglycerolated fatty amides; polyethoxylated fatty amines; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; ethoxylated oils of natural origin, fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; fatty acid mono or diesters of C2-C3 polyols; (C₆-C₂4 ) alkylpolyglycosides ; N- (C₆-

C2 ) alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides; and N-(Cio~

C₁₄) acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides, provided that they have an HLB value of less than 12.

14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 11 to 13, wherein the (f) nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of less than 12 is selected from condensates of

ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, provided that they have an HLB value of less than 12.