WO2013042274A1

WO2013042274A1 - Cosmetic cleansing composition

Info

Publication number: WO2013042274A1
Application number: PCT/JP2011/072495
Authority: WO
Inventors: Kazuhiko Maruyama
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2011-09-22
Filing date: 2011-09-22
Publication date: 2013-03-28
Also published as: JP2014526436A; CN103813778A; JP6317252B2; CN103813778B

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a cleansing composition, preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition for the face. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises (a) lauric acid, (b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid, (c) at least one anionic surfactant, (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant, and (e) at least one cationic polymer, wherein the weight ratio of (a) lauric acid/ ( (a) lauric acid+(b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid) is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.12 or less, and more preferably 0.10 or less. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have both good foamability and good feeling of the skin after use.

Description

DESCRIPTION

COSMETIC CLEANSING COMPOSITION

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a cleansing composition preferably for the face .

BACKGROUND ART

Cleansing the skin is very important for caring for the face. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as excess sebum, the remnants of cosmetic products used daily, and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in the skin folds, and can block the pores of the skin and result in the appearance of spots.

Several types of skin cleansing products, for example, rinsable cleansing anhydrous oils and gels, and foaming creams, lotions and gels, are known.

Rinsable anhydrous oils and gels have a cleansing action by virtue of oils present in these formulations. These oils make it possible to dissolve fatty residues and to disperse make-up pigments. These products are effective and well tolerated. However, they exhibit the disadvantage of being heavy, of not foaming and of not conferring a feeling of freshness on application, which is disadvantageous from a cosmetic viewpoint .

On the other hand, foaming creams, lotions and gels have a cleansing action by virtue of the surfactants, which suspend the fatty residues and the pigments of, for example, the make-up products. They are effective and pleasant to use because they foam and because they are easy to remove.

Recently, cleansing products, in particular facial cleansing compositions, are expected to have not only cleansing effects and foaming ability but also leaving good feeling on the skin after use, such as refreshing, smoothing and moisturizing sensation and natural feeling.

Therefore, in order to obtain good feeling on the skin after use, the following technologies are in use:

- Use of a combination of an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant, as disclosed in JP-A-2004-35524 ; and

- Use of an additional ingredient, e.g. , an oil or a cationic polymer, such as cationized cellulose and diallyl quaternary ammonium salt polymer or diallyl quaternary ammonium salt/acrylamide copolymer, as disclosed in JP-A-2001-64678.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

However, the cleansing products using the above technologies have been unsatisfactory obtaining good foamability and good feeling of the skin after use. They still have certain disadvantages of skin feeling during and after use, as well as slow lather speed, a poor volume of foam, a stretched feeling, a squeaky feeling, an unnatural feeling (filmy feeling, feeling something remaining on the skin or the like) .

Thus, cleansing products which have both good foamability and good feeling of the skin after use are desired.

An objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition, in particular a cleansing composition, which have good foamability and good feeling of the skin after use.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) lauric acid;

(b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid;

(c) at least one anionic surfactant;

(d) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and

(e) at least one cationic polymer,

wherein

the weight ratio of (a) lauric acid/ ((a) lauric acid+(b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid) is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.12 or less, and more preferably 0.10 or less.

It is preferable that the amount of (a) lauric acid be 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferable that (b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid be selected from C13-18 fatty acids, preferably C13-18 saturated fatty acids.

It is preferable that the amount of (b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid be 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferable that (c) at least one anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin or of silk proteins, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, alkylsulfates, alkylethersulfates, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates, alkylphosphates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures thereof. The amino acid

derivatives may be acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives.

It is preferable that the amount of (c) at least one anionic surfactant be 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

It is preferable that (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant be selected from the group consisting of betaines,

amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. -

It is preferable that (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant be selected from amine oxides.

It is preferable that the amount of (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant be 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferable, that (e) at least one cationic polymer is a polyquaternium polymer.

It is preferable that the amount of (e) at least one cationic polymer be 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprise (f) at least one

alkylpolyglycerylether .

In the above preferable embodiment, the amount of (f) at least one alkylpolyglycerylether may be 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be a cleansing composition, in particular a cleansing composition for the face.

The present invention also relates to a process for cleaning the skin, scalp and/or hair, in particular the face, wherein the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin, to the scalp and/or to the hair, in particular to the face.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

The inventors performed diligent research, and found that a combination of specific substances can provide a cosmetic composition, in particular, a cleansing composition, with good foamability and good feeling of the skin after use. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is characterized by comprising:

(a) lauric acid;

(b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid;

(c) at least one anionic surfactant;

(d) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and

(e) at least one cationic polymer,

wherein

the weight ratio of (a) lauric acid/ ( (a) lauric acid+(b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid) is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.12 or less, and more preferably 0.10 or less.

Hereinafter, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.

(a) Lauric Acid

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises lauric acid. The lauric acid may be in the form of a free acid or in the form of a salt thereof. As a salt of lauric acid, mention may be made of an inorganic salt such as an alkali, metal salt (a sodium salt, a potassium salt, or the like) and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt, a calcium salt, or the like) ; and an organic salt such as an ammonium salt (a . quaternary ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or the like) . It is preferable that at least a part (preferably at least 80%, and more preferably 90%) , in particular all, of the lauric acid be in the form of a free acid.

Lauric acid can provide the cosmetic composition according to the present invention with a property which can rapidly foam.

The amount of lauric acid in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of lauric acid may be 0.1 to 5%, preferably 1 to 4%, and more preferably 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(b) Fatty Acid Other Than Lauric Acid

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid. Two or more fatty acids may be used. Thus, a single type of fatty acid or a combination of different type of fatty acids may be used.

A fatty acid here means an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, preferably an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid having a long carbon chain. It is preferable that the fatty acid have at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 7 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 carbon atoms. The fatty acid may preferably comprise up to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 20 carbon atoms. The fatty acid is not limited as long as it is not lauric acid.

The fatty acid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids . As the unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, mono-unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids or polyunsaturated, linear -or branched fatty acids may be used. As the unsaturated moiety of the unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids , a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be mentioned.

As the fatty acid other than lauric acid, for example, a C₈-n, 13-28 saturated, linear or branched fatty acid may be used. As the Cs-n,13-28 saturated, linear or branched fatty acids other than lauric acid, mention may be made of caprylic acid (C₈) , pelargonic acid (Cg) , capric acid (Cio) , myristic acid (C14) , pentadecanoic acid (C15) , palmitic acid (C16) , heptadecanoic acid (C17) , stearic acid (Ci₈) , nonadecanoic acid (C19) , arachidic acid (C20) , behenic acid (C22) r and lignoceric acid (C24) .

On the other hand, as the fatty acid other than lauric acid, for example, a C₈-28 unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid may also be used. As the C8-28 unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, mention may be made of palmitoleic acid (C ) , oleic acid (Ci₈) , linoleic acid (Ci₈) , linolenic acid (Ci₈) , arachidonic acid (C20) _/ and nervonic acid (C24) ·

It is preferable that the fatty acid be selected from Ci₃_i₈ fatty acids, preferably Ci₃-i_S saturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, preferable fatty acids other than lauric acid are myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, and stearic acid. Myristic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid are more preferable.

The fatty acid other than lauric acid may be in the form of a free acid or in the form of a salt thereof. As a salt of the fatty acid other than lauric acid, mention may be made of an inorganic salt such as an alkali metal salt (a sodium salt, a potassium salt, or the like) and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt, a calcium salt, or the like) ; and an organic salt such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or the like) . A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different type of fatty acid salts may be used. Further, a combination of one or more fatty acid in the form of a free acid and one or more fatty acid in the form of a salt may be used, in which one or more type of salts may also be used. It is preferable that at least a part (preferably at least 80%, and more preferably 90%) , in particular all, of the fatty acid other than lauric acid be in the form of a free acid.

The amount of fatty acid other than lauric acid in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of the fatty acid may be 10 to 40%, preferably 15 to 35%, and more preferably 20 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention, the weight ratio of (a) lauric acid/ ((a) lauric acid+ (b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid) is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.12 or less, and more preferably 0.10 or less. If the weight ratio of (a) lauric acid/ ((a) lauric acid+(b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid) is more than 0.15, the skin feeling after use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be impaired.

(c) Anionic Surfactant

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant. Two or more anionic surfactants may be used.. Thus, a single type of anionic surfactant or a combination of different type of anionic surfactants may be used.

The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin or of silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates , polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides, and their mixtures .

1) Anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin are protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, it being possible for the said hydrophobic group to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by reaction of the protein and/or of. the protein hydrolysate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of vegetable origin or derived from silk, and the hydrophobic group can in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Mention may more particularly be made, as anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin, of apple, wheat, soybean or oat protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and their salts. The alkyl chain can in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt can be a sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salt.

Thus, mention may be made, as protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, for example, of salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is a silk protein modified by lauric acid, such as the product sold under the name Kawa Silk by Kawaken; salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is a wheat protein modified by lauric acid, such as the potassium salt sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by Croda (CTFA name: potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids) and the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol L 30 by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl wheat amino acids) ; salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is an oat protein comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and more especially salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein. is an oat protein modified by lauric acid, such as the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol OAT (30% aqueous solution) by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl oat amino acids); or salts of apple protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol APL (30% aqueous/glycol solution) by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) . Mention may also be made of the mixture of lauroyl amino acids (aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, alanine) neutralized with sodium N-methylglycinate sold under the name Proteol SAV 50 S by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium cocoyl amino acids) .

2) Mention may be made, as phosphates and alkyl phosphates , for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate, the mixture of mono- and diesters (predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® by Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono (Ci₂-Ci₃) alkyl phosphate, sold under the references Arlatone MAP 230K-40® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60®by Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate, sold under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09®.by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl phosphate, sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by Uniqema.

3) Mention may be made, as carboxylates , ^' of :

- amido ether carboxylates (AEC) , such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO) , sold under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals;

- polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl. ether carboxylate (65/25/10 Ci₂-Ci₄-Ci₆) , sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fatty acids originating from olive oil, sold under the name Olivem 400® by Biologia E Tecnologia, or oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate, sold under the name Nikkol ECTD-6NEX® by Nikkol; and

- salts of fatty acids (soaps) having a C_s to C₂₂ alkyl chain which are neutralized with an organic or inorganic base, such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.

4) Mention may in particular be made, as amino acid derivatives, of alkali salts of amino acids, such as:

- sarcosinates , such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol;

- alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE® by Kawaken, or triethanolamine

N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone ALTA® by Kawaken;

- glutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate,- sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12® by Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by

Aj inomoto ;

- aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the name Asparack® by Mitsubishi;

- glycine derivatives (glycinates) , such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto;

- citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated (9 mol) coco alcohols, sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt; and

- galacturonates, such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate, sold by Soliance.

5) Mention may be made, as sulphosuccinates, for example, of oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl (70/30 Ci₂/Ci₄) alcohol

monosulphosuccinate, sold under the names Setacin 103 Special® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the disodium salt of a .

hemisulphosuccinate of C12-C1 alcohols, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by Cognis, oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Lebon A-5000® by Sanyo, the disodium salt of oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50® by Witco, or ricinoleic

monoethanolamide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewoderm S 1333® by Witco. Use may also be made of polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates, such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone

sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by Maclntyre.

6) Mention may be made, as alkyl sulphates, for example, of triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: TEA lauryl sulphate) , such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol TL40 FL or the product sold by Cognis under the name Texapon T42, which products are at 40% in aqueous solution. Mention may also be made of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium lauryl sulphate) , such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol AL 30FL, which is at 30% in aqueous solution.

7) Mention may be made, as alkyl ether sulphates, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the names Texapon N40 and Texapon AOS 225 UP by Cognis, or ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulphate) , such as that sold under the name Standapol EA-2 by Cognis.

8) Mention may be made, as sulphonates, for example, of

oi-olefinsulphonates, such as sodium -olefinsulphonate (Ci₄-Ci₆) , sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40® by Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege® and Sulframine AOS PH 12® by Witco or sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG® by Stepan, secondary sodium olefinsulphonate, sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30® by Clariant; or linear alkylarylsulphonates , such as sodium xylenesulphonate, sold under the names Manrosol SXS30®, Manrosol SXS40® and Manrosol SXS93® by Manro.

9) Mention may be made, as isethionates, of acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P® by Jordan.

10) Mention may be made, as taurates, of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by Clariant; N-acyl-N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate, sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol.

11) The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides can in particular be citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of , cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) tartaric ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) sulphosuccinic ester, sold under the name Essai 512 MP® by Seppic, or the sodium salt of

cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) citric ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia.

It is preferable that the amino acid derivatives be acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives, in particular acyl glycine salt. The acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives can be chosen from acyl glycine salts (or acyl glycinates) or glycine salts (or glycinates), and in particular from the following. i) Acyl glycinates of formula (I) :

in which

- R represents an acyl group R'C=0, with R' , which represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon chain, . preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and

- X represents a cation chosen, for example, from the ions of alkali metals, such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, the ions of alkaline earth metals, such as Mg, ammonium groups and their mixtures.

The acyl group can in particular be chosen from the lauroyl, myristoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl or oleoyl groups and their mixtures.

Preferably, R is a cocoyl group. ii) Glycinates of following formula (II):

in which:

- Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms; Ri is advantageously chosen from the lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, cetyl, cetearyl or oleyl groups and their mixtures and preferably from the stearyl and oleyl groups,

- the R₂ groups, which are identical or different, represent an R"OH group, R" being an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made, as compound of formula (I), for example, of the compounds carrying the INCI name sodium cocoyl glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCS-12, sold by Ajinomoto, or potassium cocoyl glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCK-12 from Ajinomoto.

Use may be made, as compounds of formula (II) , of dihydroxyethyl oleyl glycinate or dihydroxyethyl stearyl glycinate. The amount of anionic surfactant in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of the anionic surfactant may be 0.1 to 5% , preferably 0.3 to 3% , and more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(d) Amphoteric Surfactant

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used. Thus, a single type of amphoteric surfactant or a combination of different types of amphoteric surfactants may be used.

The amphoteric surfactant is not limited. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (non-limiting list) , amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or

phosphonate) .

As preferable amohoteric surfactants, mention may be made of betaines, amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines , and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C8-C24 ) alkylbetaines ,

( 8-C24) alkylamido (Ci~C₈) alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and

(C8-C2 ) alkylamido (Ci-C₈) alkylsulphobetaines . In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from

(C8-C24) alkylbetaines, (C8-C24) alkylamido (Ci-Ce) alkylsulphobetaines, sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.

Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine,

coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine,

palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine,

cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysuitaine,

oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine,

laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine .

Among the amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference) , under the names

Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures:

R_a-CONHCH₂CH₂-N⁺(R_b) (R_c) (CH₂COO^~) in which:

R_a denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R_a-COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,

R_b denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

R_c denotes a carboxymethyl group; and

R_a' -CONHCH₂CH₂-N (B) (C) in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX',

C represents -(CH₂)_Z-Y', with z=l or 2,

X' denotes a -CH₂CH₂-COOH group, -CH₂-COOZ' , -CH₂CH₂-COOH,

-CH₂CH₂-COOZ' or a hydrogen atom,

Y' denotes -C00H, -COOZ' , -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃Z' or a -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃H radical, Z' represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion issued from an organic amine, and R_a' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R_a'-C00H present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C₇, Cg, C or C13 alkyl radical, a^■ Ci₇ alkyl radical and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci radical.

It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be selected from (C₈-C₂₄) -alkyl amphomonoacetates, (Cs-C₂₄) alkyl amphodiacetates , (C8-C24) alkyl amphomonopropionates , and (Ce-C₂₄) alkyl

amphodipropionates .

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium

Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid and

Cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention. may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chinaie .

It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be selected from amine oxides such as (C₁₀-Ci₄) alkylamine oxides or

N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides, e.g., lauramine oxide. For example, A INOXID LO from Evonik Goldschmidt may be used as lauramine oxide .

The amount of amphoteric surfactant in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of the amphoteric surfactant may be 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.3 to 3%, and more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(e) Cationic Polymer

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic polymer. Two or more cationic polymers may be used. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different type of cationic polymers may be used.

It should be noted that, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that may be ionized into cationic groups.

Such polymers may be chosen from those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, i.e., especially those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.

The cationic polymers that are preferred are chosen from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups, which may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly attached thereto.

The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between approximately 500 and approximately 5*10⁶ and preferably between approximately 10³ and approximately 3*10⁶.

Among the cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly are polymers of the polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type .

These are known products. They are described in particular in French patents Nos 2 505 348 and 2 542 997. Among the said polymers, mention may be made of the following.

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formula (I), low:

in which

R₃, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH₃ radical;

A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R₄, R₅ and R₆, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Ri and R₂, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl; and

X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and

methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (Ci-C₄) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl-caprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Thus, among these polymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hereofloc by the company Hercules,

- the copolymers of acrylamide and of

methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and of

methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat" by the company ISP, for instance "Gafquat 734" or "Gafquat 755", or alternatively the products known as "Copolymer 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,

- dimethylaminoethyl

methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers , such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, and

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP, and quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl , methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name "Gafquat HS 100" by the company ISP.

(2) The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, which are described in French patent 1 492 597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as hydroxyethylcellulose quaternary ammoniums that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as the copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, described especially in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-,

hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamido- propyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

(4) The cationic guar gums described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, such as guar gums containing

trialkylammonium cationic groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a salt (e.g., chloride) of

2, 3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium. Such products are sold

especially under the trade names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Meyhall.

(5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.

(6) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a

bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a

bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.

(7) The polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents . Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 583 363.

Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

(8) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms . The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the

dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3 227 615 and 2 961 347.

Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name

"Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.

(9) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as a main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (V) or (VI) :

in which formulae

k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R₉ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R₇ and R₈, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl group, or R₇ and R₈ can denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R₇ and Re, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Calgon (and its homologues of low weight-average molecular mass) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the name "Merquat 550".

(10) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeating units corresponding to the formula:

in which formula (VII) :-

Rio_/ Riir Ri2 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively Rio, Rn, R12 and R_i3, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second hetero atom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R_i0, Rn, R12 and R₁₃ represent a linear or branched Ci-C₆ alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R14-D or -CO-NH-R₁₄-D where R14 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

X^" denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

Ai, Rio and Ri₂ can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group - (CH₂) _n-CO-D-OC- (CH₂) _n- in which D denotes:

i) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-0-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae:

- (CH₂-CH₂-0)_X-CH2-CH₂-; and

- [CH₂-CH (CH₃) -0] _y-CH₂-CH (CH₃) - where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

ii) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; iii) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH₂-CH₂-S-S-CH₂-CH₂-; or iv) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH- .

Preferably, X^~ is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

^'These polymers generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 1000 and 100 000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents' 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462, 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904, 4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and 4 027 020.

It is more particularly possible to use polymers that consist of repeating units corresponding to the following formula (VIII) :

in which

Rio_/- Rii R12 and Ri3, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X^" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.. (11) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (IX)

in which p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6 approximately, D may be nothing or may represent a group - (C¾) _r~C0- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and

X^~ is an anion.

Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described in patents US 4 157 388, 4 702 906 and 4 719 282. They are especially described in patent application EP-A-122 324.

Among these polymers, examples that may be mentioned include the products "Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1", "Mirapol AZl" and "Mirapol 175" sold by the company Miranol.

(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

(13) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Henkel, which is given under the reference name "Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine" in the CTFA dictionary.

(14) Crosslinked methacryloyloxy (C1-C4) alkyltri (C1-C4) - alkylammonium salt polymers such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide . A crosslinked

acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride

copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil can be used more particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name "Salcare® SC 92" by the company Allied Colloids. A crosslinked meth- acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names "Salcare® SC 95" and "Salcare® SC 96" by the company Allied Colloids .

(15) Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyam'ines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

It is preferable that the cationic polymer be a polyquaternium polymer or a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt.

Polymeric quaternary ammonium salts are cationic polymers comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom. Mention may in particular be made, as polymeric quaternary ammonium salts, of the Polyquaternium products (CTFA name) , which contribute mainly to the quality of foam, and the skin feeling after use, in particular the skin feeling after use. These polymers can preferably be chosen from the following polymers:

Polyquaternium-5, such as the product Merquat 5 sold by Calgon; Polyquaternium-6, such as the product Salcare SC 30 sold by Ciba and the product Merquat 100 sold by Calgon;

Polyquaternium-7 , such as the products Merquat S, Merquat 2200, Merquat 7SPR, and Merquat 550 sold by Calgon and the product Salcare SC 10 sold by Ciba;

Polyquaternium-10, such as the product Polymer JR400 sold by Amerchol; Polyquaternium-11 , such as the products Gafquat 755, Gafquat 755N and Gafquat 734 sold by ISP;

Polyquaternium-15, such as the product Rohagit KF 720 F sold by Rohm; Polyquaternium-16, such as the products Luviquat FC905, Luviquat FC370, Luviquat HM552 and Luviquat FC550 sold by BASF;

Polyquaternium-28, such as the product Styleze CC10 sold by ISP; Polyquaternium-44 , such as the product Luviquat Care sold by BASF; Polyquaternium-46, such as the product Luviquat Hold sold by BASF; and

Polyquaternium-47, such as the product Merquat 2001 sold by Calgon.

Preferably, the quaternary ammonium salts are chosen from

Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-47 and their mixtures .

Preferably, the cationic polymer is chosen from alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium homopolymers or copolymers, and more preferably from copolymers of acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium chloride, as mentioned at paragraph (9) here above.

In particular, a cationic polymer, preferably with a molecular weight of 2,000,000 to 3,000,000, having the following units

wherein

n' and n" independently represents a positive integer, such as 1 to 1000000, preferably 1 to 100000, and more preferably 1 to 10000, and the ratio n' In" may be 50/50 to 10/90, preferably 50/50 to 20/80, and more preferably 50/50 to 30/70.

The amount of cationic polymer in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of the cationic polymer may be 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.3 to 3%, and more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(f) Alkylpolyglycerylether

It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprise at least one alkylpolyglycerylether. Two or more alkylpolyglycerylethers may be used. Thus, a single type of alkylpolyglycerylether or a combination of different type of alkylpolyglycerylethers may be used.

The alkylpolyglycerylether can contribute mainly to the skin feeling after use.

The alkylpolyglycerylether can be selected from

a-monoalkylpolyglycerylether, a-monoalkenylpolyglycerylether and a-monohydroxyalkylpolyglycerylether, represented by the following formula:

wherein

R denotes a linear or branched, alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl group, preferably having 2-20, and more preferably 8-18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms; and

n denotes an integer from 2 to 10, and preferably an integer from 4 to 10, and more preferably an integer from 8 to 10.

As R, a linear or branched alkyl group is preferable. As examples of the linear or branched alkyl group, mention may be made of an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, and a tetradecyl group. The alkylpolyglycerylether may be prepared by reacting an aliphatic alcohol with glycidol under the presence of a basic catalyst such that the alcohol/glycidol molar ratio is controlled; by reacting a polyglycerin with -olefin epoxide; by ring-opening

alkylglycidylether with a polyglycerin; or the like.

As examples of the alkylpolyglycerylether, mention may be made of decaglycrin monooctyl ether, decaglycerin monodecyl ether, decaglycerin monododecyl ether, decaglycerin monotetradecyl ether, octaglycerin monooctyl ether, octaglycerin monodecyl ether, octaglycerin monododecyl ether, octaglycerin monotetradecyl ether, hexaglycrin monooctyl ether, hexaglycerin monodecyl ether, hexaglycerin monododecyl ether, hexaglycerin monotetradecyl ether, tetraglycrin monooctyl ether, tetraglycerin monodecyl ether, tetraglycerin monododecyl ether, and tetraglycerin monotetradecyl ether.

Preferable alkylpolyglycerylether are decaglycerin monododecyl ether, octaglycerin monododecyl ether, hexaglycerin monododecy ether and tetraglycerin monododecyl ether . In particular, Polyglyceryl-4 lauryl . ether (e.g., SUNETEHER-4 from Taiyo Kagaku) may be more preferable .

The amount of alkylpolyglycerylether in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of the alkylpolyglycerylether may be 1 to 20%, preferably 2 to 10%, and more preferably 3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(g) Cosmetic Composition

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant other than (f)

alkylpolyglycerylether . Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used. Thus, a single type of nonionic surfactant or a combination of different types of nonionic surfactants may be used.

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from:

- oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohols;

- oxyalkylenated alkylphenols in which the alkyl chain is of C₈-Ci₈;

- oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty amides;

- oxyalkylenated plant oils;

- oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, in particular the

polyoxyethylenated derivatives of esters of glyceryl and of a fatty acid and of their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen for example from hydrogenated and oxyethylenated glyceryl esters of fatty acids such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate marketed under the name Rewoderm LI-S 80 by the company Goldschmidt; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate marketed under the name Tegosoft GC by the company Goldschmidt, and PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate marketed under the name Rewoderm LI-63 by the company Goldschmidt; and mixtures thereof;

- optionally oxyalkylenated C6-C30 acid esters of sorbitan;

- optionally oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sucrose;

- oxyalkylenated sugar esters, in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acid esters of sugars. These oxyalkylenated sugar esters may be chosen for example from oxyethylenated glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the company Amerchol;

- fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; and

- (C₆-C3o) alkylpolyglycosides (As alkyl polyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units. The alkyl polyglucosides may.be chosen for example from decyl glucoside (C9/C11 alkyl polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company Cognis; caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis; lauryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the n-ame Plantacare 1200 UP® by the company Cognis; cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by the company Cognis; caprylyl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof) ;

- N- (C6-C30) alkylglucamine derivatives;

- N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides;

- copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide; and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the mean number of oxyalkylene units is advantageously between 2 and 150 units. Preferably, they are oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or mixtures thereof.

As regards the polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably comprise on average 1 to 20 and in particular 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups.

In accordance with one particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C₆-C3o alcohols.

The amount of nonionic surfactant in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of the nonionic surfactant may be 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.3 to 3%, and more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amphoteric polymer. Two or more amphoteric polymers may be used,. Thus, a single type of amphoteric polymer or a combination of different type of amphoteric polymers may be used.

The amphoteric polymer may be chosen from polymers containing units A and B randomly distributed in the polymer chain, in which A denotes a unit derived from a monomer containing at least one basic nitrogen atom and B denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer containing one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, or alternatively A and B can denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of

carboxybetaines or of sulphobetaines; A and B can also denote a cationic polymer chain containing primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon radical, or alternatively A and B form part of a chain of a polymer containing an a, β-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been reacted with a polyamine containing one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

The amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above may be chosen from the following polymers.

(1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid or

-chloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from, a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in U.S. Patent No. 3,836,537.

(2) polymers derived from diallyldialkylammonium and from at least one anionic monomer, such as polymers containing from about 60 to about 99% by weight of units derived from a quaternary

diallyldialkylammonium monomer in which the alkyl groups are chosen, independently, from alkyl groups having 1 to 18 carbon atoms and in which the anion is derived from an acid having an ionization constant of greater than 10^-13 and 1 to 40% by weight of this polymer, of an anionic monomer chosen from acrylic or methacrylic acid, the molecular weight of this polymer being approximately between 50,000 and 10,000,000, determined by gel permeation chromatography. Such polymers are described in patent application EP-A-269, 243.

The polymers may be, inter alia, polymers containing alkyl groups chosen from groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and more particularly methyl and ethyl groups .

Among these polymers, copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride or of diethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylic acid are particularly preferred. These polymers are sold, for example, under the names "Merquat 280" and "Merquat 295" by the company Merck.

A terpolymer of dimethyldiallyammonium chloride/acrylic

acid/acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT PLUS 3330" by the company Merck may also correspond to the amphoteric polymer.

(3) polymers containing units derived:

i) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or

methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl radical, ii) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and

iii) from at least one^' basic comonomer such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulphate.

The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides may be groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide,

N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide and N-dodecylacrylamide, as well as the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid as well as monoesters of alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acid or anhydride.

The preferred basic^' comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, ' -dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates . The copolymers whose CTFA name (4th edition, 1991) is

octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name Amphomer or Lovocryl 47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used.

(4) partially or totally alkylated and crosslinked polyamino amides derived from polyamino amides of general formula:

in which

Rio represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from an aliphatic mono- or dicarboxylic acid containing an ethylenic double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or from a radical derived from the addition of any one of the said acids to a bis-primary or bis-secondary amine, and Z denotes a radical of a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: i) in proportions of 60 to 100 mol %, the radical-

where

x=2 and n=2 or 3 or alternatively x=3 and n=2 this radical being derived from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetraamine or

dipropylenetriamine;

ii) in proportions of 0 to 40 mol %, the radical (III) above, in which x=2 and n=l and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the radical derived from piperazine:

iii) in proportions of 0 to 20 mol %, the radical -NH- (C¾) 6^_NH- derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyamino amides being crosslinked by addition of a difunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bis-unsaturated derivatives, using from 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyamino amide and alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone, or salts thereof.

The saturated carboxylic acids may be chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2, 2, 4-trimethyladipic acid, 2, 4, 4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid and acids containing an ethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or itaconic acid. The alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone, and the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts. polymers containing zwitterionic units of formula

in which

R2 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, x and y represent an integer from 1 to 3, R3 and R₄ represent hydrogen, methyl, ethyl or propyl, R5 and R6 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that .the sum of the carbon atoms in R₅ and Re does not exceed 10.

The polymers comprising such units can also contain units derived from non-z itterionic monomers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.

By way of example, mention may be made of the copolymer of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylaxmonioethyl

methacrylate .

(6) chitosan-derived polymers containing monomer units corresponding to the following formulae:

the unit D being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit E in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the unit F in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit F, Ri6 represents a radical of formula:

R

in which if n=0, R17, Rie and R19, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulphonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the radicals R17, Rie and R19 being, in this case, a hydrogen atom; or if n=l, R₁₇, Ri₈ and R19 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with acids or bases. (7) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan sold under the name "Evalsan" by the company Jan Dekker.

(8) polymers corresponding to the general formula (V) , described in French patent 1,400,366:

in which

R20 represents a hydrogen atom or a CH₃0, CH₃ C¾ 0 or phenyl radical, R21 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R22 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R23 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula: -R24-N (R22) 21 R24 representing a -CH₂ -CH₂ -, -CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH₂-CH (CH₃) - group, R22 having the meanings given above, as well as the higher homologues of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms.

(9) amphoteric polymers of the type -A-Z-A-Z, chosen from:

i) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds containing at least one unit of formula:

-A-Z-A-Z-A- (VI)

where

A denotes a radical

and Z denotes the symbol B or B', B and B', which may be identical or different, denote a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and also being able to contain oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur atoms, and 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings, the oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, and hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, guaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups,

ii) polymers of formula:

where

A denotes a radical

and Z denotes the symbol B or B' and at least once B', B having the meaning given above and B' being a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical containing a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl radicals and containing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily containing one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium

chloroacetate .

(10) copolymers of (C1-C5) alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride partially modified by semiamidification with an .

N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine, or by semiesterification with an Ν,Ν-dialkanolamine. These copolymers can also contain other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.

In particular, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention does not comprise an amphoteric polyme represented by the following formula (1) :

wherein

R¹ and R² independently denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and x, y and z independently denotes a positive integer. The amount of amphoteric polymer in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of the amphoteric polymer may be 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.3 to 3%, and more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition..

On the other hand, the compositions of the invention can comprise one or more adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic field selected from the group consisting of cosmetic or dermatological active principles, fragrances, preservatives, sequestering agents (EDTA) , pigments, pearlescent agents, inorganic or organic fillers, such as talc, kaolin, silica powder or polyethylene powder, soluble dyes, sunscreen agents and their mixtures.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

These adjuvants and their concentrations should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.

Preferred active principles include anti-seborrheic and

anti-microbial active principles which make it possible in particular to treat greasy skin.

This active principle can be chosen in particular from: β-lactam derivatives, quinolone derivatives, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline and its salts, erythromycin and its salts, amikacin and its salts, 2,4,4' -trichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan) , 3, , 4 ' -trichlorocarbanilide (triclocarban) , phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline and its salts, capreomycin and its salts,, chlorhexidine and its salts,

chlorotetracyline and its salts, oxytetracycline and its salts, clindamycin and its salts, ethambutol and its salts, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, pentamidine and its salts, gentamycin and its salts, kanamycin and its salts, lineomycin and its salts, methacycline and its salts, methenamine and its salts, minocycline and its salts, neomycin and its salts, netilmicin and its salts, paromomycin and its salts, streptomycin and its salts, tobramycin and its salts, miconazole and its salts, amantadine salts, para-chloro-meta-xylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, salicylic acid and its salts, 5- (n-octanoyl) salicylic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid,

acetylsalicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, acetaminophen, resorcinol, 2 ,·4 , 4 ' -trichloro-2 ' -hydroxydip- henyl ether,

3 , 4 , ¹ -trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole, oxtoxyglycerol, octanoylglycine, caprylylglycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, zinc salts, such as zinc gluconate, niacinamide or vitamin B3 (or vitamin PP) , and their mixtures.

Use may also be made, in the composition of the invention, as active principles, of any active principle commonly used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as, for example, water-soluble or fat-soluble vitamins or provitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide) , vitamin B (panthenol) , vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin Kl, β-carotene, and the derivatives of these vitamins and in particular their esters; steroids, such as DHEA and 7 -hydroxy-DHEA; moisturizing agents, such as glycerol, hyaluronic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid (PCA) and its salts, sodium pidolate, serine, xylitol, trehalose, ectoin, ceramides or urea; keratolytic and anti-ageing agents, such as a-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, citric acid or lactic acid, or β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and its derivatives; enzymes and coenzymes and in particular coenzyme Q10; sunscreen agents; optical brighteners; slimming active principles, such as caffeine, theophylline or theobromine; anti-inflammatories, such as 18- -glycyrrhetinic acid and ursolic acid, and their mixtures.

Use may be made of a mixture of two or more of these active principles. The active principle or principles can, for example, be present in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 10% and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can constitute in particular foaming creams for topical application used in particular in the cosmetic field as products for cleaning or removing make-up from the skin (body or face, including eyes), scalp and/or hair. They can constitute more particularly a composition for cleansing the skin, in particular a face.

Another subject-matter of the invention can be a cosmetic use of the composition as defined above as products for cleaning and/or removing makeup from the skin, scalp and/or hair, in particular from a face.

Another subject-matter of the invention is a cosmetic process for cleaning the skin, scalp and/or hair, in particular a face, wherein the composition of the invention is applied to the skin, to the scalp and/or to the hair, in particular the face, preferably in the presence of water and in that the foam foamed and the grime are removed by rinsing with water. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be prepared by mixing the above-described components with a conventional mixing device. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can advantageously be prepared by using, for at least one stage of the preparation process, a mixing device.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4

The following cleansing compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1. to 4, shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight".

The following cleansing compositions were prepared as follows . First, the components in Phase A in Table 1 were charged into a main container, mixed at elevated temperature, and stirred to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Second, the component in Phase B was added to the above mixture, and stirred at elevated temperature. On the other hand, the components in Phase C in Table 1 were charged into a separate container, mixed at elevated temperature, and stirred to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Next, the mixture in the separate container was added to the mixture in the main container, and stirred. Then, the components in Phases D to F were added to the container, mixed and stirred to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

Table 1

The cleansing compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were subjected to evaluation test as defined below.

[Evaluation Test]

Five panelists evaluated the cleansing compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 in terms of "speed of making foam", "quantity of foam", "no tightness after rinsing" and "natural moisturizing feeling after rinsing".

Each panelist took each sample into the palm of the hand, then worked into a mousse with a little water, then applied to a face using circular movements, finally rinsed off well to evaluate, speed of making foam, quantity of foam, no tightness after rinsing and natural moisturizing feeling after rinsing for each sample, and graded from l(poor) to 5 (excellent) for each effect, which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade: "excellent" (5.0 to 4.0), "good" (3.9 to 3.0), "fair" (2.9 to 2.0), or "poor" (1.9 to 1.0) .

The results of the evaluation test are shown in Table 2.

Table 2

It was found that the cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 corresponding to the present invention are superior to those according to Comparative Examples 2 to 4 in which one of the essential components in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is missing.

It was also found that the cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 in which the weight ratio of lauric acid/ (stearic acid + myristic acid + palmitic acid + lauric acid) is 0.15 or less are superior to that according to Comparative Example 1 in which the corresponding weight ratio is about 0.176 (more than 0.15) in terms of feeling to use such as no tightness after rinsing and natural moisturizing feeling after rinsing.

It was further found that the cosmetic compositions according to Examples 2 and 3 which further comprise alkylpolyglycerylether such as Polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether are even superior to that according to Example 1 which does not comprise alkylpolyglycerylether in terms of skin feeling after use such as no tightness after rinsing.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) lauric acid;

(b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid;

(c) at least one anionic surfactant;

(d) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and

(e) at least one cationic polymer,

wherein

the weight ratio of (a) lauric acid/ ( (a) lauric acid+ (b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid) is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.12 or less, and more preferably 0.10 or less.

2. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, wherein the amount of (a) lauric acid is 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein (b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid is selected from C13-18 fatty acids, preferably C13-18 saturated fatty acids.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of (b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid is 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein (c) at least one anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin or of silk proteins, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, alkylsulfates , alkylethersulfates , sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates, alkylphosphates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkylpolyglucosides , and mixtures thereof.

6. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 5, wherein the amino acid derivatives are acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of (c) at least one. anionic surfactant is 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of, betaines, amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from amine oxides.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant is 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein (e) at least one cationic polymer is a polyquaternium polymer.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the amount of (e) at least one cationic polymer is 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises (f) at least one alkylpolyglycerylether .

14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the amount of (f) at least one alkylpolyglycerylether is 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

15. Process for cleaning the skin, scalp and/or hair, in particular the face, wherein the cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 is applied to the skin, to the scalp and/or to the hair, in particular to the face.