WO2014098266A1 - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014098266A1
WO2014098266A1 PCT/JP2013/085303 JP2013085303W WO2014098266A1 WO 2014098266 A1 WO2014098266 A1 WO 2014098266A1 JP 2013085303 W JP2013085303 W JP 2013085303W WO 2014098266 A1 WO2014098266 A1 WO 2014098266A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
composition according
weight
poly
fatty acid
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2013/085303
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Anne-Laure Bernard
AKKARI Remi EL
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication of WO2014098266A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014098266A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion.
  • Microemulsions oil in water, water in oil or bicontinuous have been developed these last years as an alternative of cleansing oils very much appreciated for their excellent efficacy on foundation and waterproof mascara.
  • the advantage of nano- or micro- emulsion is to present sometimes better rinsibility for usually same make-up removal efficacy.
  • the cost of the nano- or micro-emulsions can be reduced because of their lower oil content.
  • US2006/0078525 discloses some microemulsions.
  • US2007/011663, JP-A-2010-222323, JP-A-2006-241151, EP-A-1952795, JP-2010-280664, and JP-2010-280643 disclose some types of emulsions.
  • microemulsions are not all equivalent in terms of cosmeticity - efficacy and rinsibility - tolerance for skin and eyes, and stability.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable cosmetic, optionally cleansing, composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion with transparent or slightly translucent, preferably transparent, aspect of the emulsion.
  • Another objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic cleansing composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion with good cosmetic properties such as cleansing and rinsing properties, and possibly less skin and eyes discomfort feeling.
  • a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion comprising:
  • the total amount of the PGFE surfactants ((b) + (c)) in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be below 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbon oils.
  • the (a) oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils which are in the form of a liquid at a room temperature, and most preferably among ester oil, alkane oil, and ether oil. It may be preferable that the (a) oil be chosen from oils with molecular weight below 600 g/mol.
  • the amount of the (a) oil may range from lOto 40% by weight, preferably from 15to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant may have an HLB value of from 8.0 to 13, preferably from 9.0 to 13, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0. It is preferable that the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant be chosen from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono(or di-)(iso)stearate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units.
  • the amount of the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant may range from 0.1 to 14% by weight, preferably from 1 to 13% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant may have an HLB value of from 6.0 to 13.0, preferably from 6.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 7.0 to 11.0.
  • the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant may be chosen from (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 or 2 glycerins, preferably glyceryl caprylate, PG-2 caprate, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant may range from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional nonionic surfactant different from the above (b) or (c) and/or at least one ionic surfactant.
  • the above additional nonionic surfactant may be (f) at least one
  • the amount of the (f) at least one oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant may range from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of all the surfatants in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be below 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the total amount of the surfactants to the (a) oil may be from 0.3 to 6, preferably from 0.4 to 3, and more preferably from 0.45 to 1.5.
  • Polyol is preferably bivalent and trivalent, and more preferably bivalent.
  • Preferred polyols are butylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and PEG8.
  • the amount of total polyols may be between 4% and 50%, preferably between 6% and 40%, and more preferably between 8% and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one thickening agent, preferably selected from associative thickeners. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W emulsion, and the (a) oil be in the form of a droplet with a number average particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably from 10 ran to 150 nm.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention have a
  • nephelometric turbidity below 150 NTU, preferably below 100 NTU, and more preferably below 50 NTU.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for treating the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and/or the scalp, characterized in that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the scalp.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, as or in care products and/or washing products and/or make-up products and/or make-up-removing products, such as cleansing products, for body and/or facial skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp and/or the hair and/or the nails and/or the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows.
  • the transparent or slightly translucent aspect of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be maintained without depending on temperature.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have good cosmetic properties such as cleansing and rinsing properties, and possibly less discomfort feeling to skin and eyes.
  • the present invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising:
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a dispersed phase which has a smaller diameter due to a combination of the first and second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters and polyol(s). Therefore, the cosmetic composition can be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion with transparent or slightly translucent.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil.
  • oil means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non- volatile, preferably non-volatile.
  • the oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil; or a mixture thereof. It is preferable that the (a) oil contains at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from ester, ether and alkane oils.
  • plant oils examples include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
  • synthetic oils mention may be made of ester oils and artificial triglyceride.
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched d-C2 6 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C2 6 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
  • isononanoate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl isostearate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Ether oil might include dicaprylyl ether.
  • monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C 4 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • diisostearyl adipate bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, hexy
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
  • Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:
  • linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparafm s, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
  • hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil(e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • the (a) oil be chosen from hydrocarbon oils which are in the form of a liquid at a room temperature.
  • the (a) oil be chosen from oils with molecular weight below 600 g mol.
  • the (a) oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g/mol, chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), hydrocarbon oils with a short alkyl chain or chains (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), short alcohol type oils such as octyldodecanol.
  • ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • hydrocarbon oils with a short alkyl chain or chains e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane
  • the amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the (a) oil is not limited, and may range from 10 to 40% by weight, preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least two different (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters as main surfactants.
  • the (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters can function as nonionic surfactants.
  • One is a first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more C!2- 2 o alkyl or alkenyl chains.
  • the other is a second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more C 6-10 alkyl or alkenyl chains.
  • the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester have a (poly)glycol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycols, more preferably from 3 to 6 glycols, and further more preferably 5 or 6 glycols.
  • the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0. If two or more (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weight average of the HLB values of all the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters. The HLB is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. This term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).
  • HLB Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • the calculated HLB is defined as being the following coefficient:
  • the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units fused to the fatty alcohol and the calculated HLB then corresponds to the HLB according to Griffin (Griffin W.C., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chemists, 5, 249, 1954).
  • the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from the mono, di and tri esters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 19 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and myristic acid.
  • the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleare, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 ole
  • polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units
  • polyglyceryl dilaurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units
  • polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units
  • polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units
  • the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester raw material may be chosen from a mixture of (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 3 to 6 glycerins, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerins, wherein the mixture preferably comprises 30% by weight or more of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with a polyglyceryl moiety consisting of 5 or 6 glycerins.
  • the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester raw material comprises esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing 70% or more of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 4 or more, preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 60% of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is between 4 and 11, and more preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 30% of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 5.
  • (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester is not limited, and may range from 0.1 to 14% by weight, preferably from 1 to 13% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester have a (poly)glycol moiety derived from 1 to 6 glycols, more preferably from 1 to 4 glycols, and further more preferably 1 or 2 glycols.
  • the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of from 6.0 to 13.0, preferably from 6.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 7.0 to 10.0. If two or more (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weight average of the HLB values of all the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters.
  • HLB Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
  • the (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from the mono, di and tri esters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 6 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 9 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 8 carbon atoms, such as capric acid and caprylic acid.
  • the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG10 tricaprate, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG10 tricaprate, PG
  • (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester be chosen from:
  • the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from
  • the amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester is not limited, and may range from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one polyol.
  • a single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.
  • polyol here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof.
  • the derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alky 1 group, a
  • the polyol may be a C 2 -C 12 polyol, preferably a C 2- 9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
  • the polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol.
  • the polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
  • the polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof.
  • the polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethyleneglycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, and 1,5-pentanediol.
  • the polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, such as from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Water]
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water.
  • the amount of water is not limited, and may be from 10 to 85% by weight, preferably from 20 to 70% by weight, and more preferably 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional nonionic surfactant different from the above (b) or (c) and/or at least one additional ionic surfactant.
  • additional surfactant may be selected from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant, as the above additional nonionic surfactant.
  • At least one oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant may be used in combination.
  • the oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant according to the present invention may be selected from mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters.
  • the mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester have a (poly)oxyalkylene moiety derived from 1 to 200 oxyalkylenes, preferably from 3 to 150 oxyalkylenes, and more preferably 4 to 120 oxyalkylenes.
  • the (poly)oxyalkylene moiety may be derived from alkylene glycols such as ethyleneglycol, propylene glycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, and the like.
  • (poly)oxyalkylene moiety may contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 200 and preferably between 2 and 150.
  • the number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 200 and preferably between 2 and 150.
  • oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant does not comprise any oxypropylene units.
  • the mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester may be chosen from the mono and di esters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.
  • Examples of mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C2-C30, preferably C 6 -C 3 o and more preferably C 8 -C 3 o acids and of polyethylene glycols.
  • Examples of mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 8 to 120 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-8 to PEG- 120 laurate (as the CTFA names: PEG-8 laurate to PEG-120 laurate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 myristate (as the CTEAnames: PEG-8 mysistate to PEG-120 mysistate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 palmitate (as the CTFAnames: PEG-8 palmitate to PEG-120 palmitate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 stearate (as the CTFAnames: PEG-8 stearate to
  • PEG-120 stearate PEG-8 to PEG-120 isostearate (as the CTFAnames: PEG-8 isostearate to PEG-120 isostearate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 oleate (as the CTFAnames: PEG-8 oleate to PEG-120 oleate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 behenate (as the CTFAnames: PEG-8 behenate to PEG-120 behenate); and mixtures thereof.
  • mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include Steareth-100 available as Brij 700 from Uniqema Inc., Pareth alcohols available as Performathox 450, 480 and 490 available from New Phase Technologies, Inc.
  • Suitable examples of di-alkyl substituted polymers include PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate available as Glutamate DOE- 120 and Glucamate DOE- 120 both from Chemron Corporation.
  • Suitable examples of tri-alkyl substituted polymers include PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate available as Glucamate LT from Chemron Corporation.
  • Suitable examples of tetra-alkyl substituted polymers include PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate available as Crothix from Croda Corporation.
  • polyglycol fatty acid ester be selected from the group consisting of PEG-120 oleate, PEG-120 methyl glycose dioleate, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (e) oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant is not limited, and may range from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the additional nonionic surfactant may be selected from the following:
  • surfactants that are fluid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 °C, chosen from the esters of at least one polyol chosen from the group formed by polyethylene glycol comprising from 1 to 60 ethylene oxide units, sorbitan, glycerol comprising from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerols comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 2 2 alkyl chain,
  • surfactants that are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, chosen from fatty esters of glycerol, fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyethylenated fatty esters of sorbitan, ethoxylated fatty ethers and ethoxylated fatty esters, and
  • the (1) surfactants that are fluid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C may be, in particular:
  • the (2) mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and of glycerol, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may be chosen in particular from the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol with an alkyl chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and of a-hydroxy acid and/or of succinic acid, with glycerol.
  • the -hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which are derived the mixed esters which can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. They may especially be stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate,
  • mixed esters which can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention
  • the mixed ester of succinic acid and of isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFAname: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by the company Hills under the name Imwitor 780 K
  • the mixed ester of citric acid and of stearic acid with glycerol CFAname:
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate sold by the company Hills under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and of stearic acid with glycerol (CTFAname: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by the company Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.
  • the (3) fatty acid esters of sugars which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may preferably be solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C and may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of C 8 -C 22 fatty acid and of sucrose, of maltose, of glucose or of fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C 14 -C 22 fatty acid and of methylglucose.
  • the C 8 -C 22 or C 14 -C 22 fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters which can be used in the present invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty unit of the esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.
  • esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and of sucrose, of maltose, of glucose or of fructose mention may be made of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, such as the products sold by the company Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, Fl 10 and F160; and examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and of methylglucose which may be mentioned are methylglucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate, sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tego-care 450. Mention may also be made of glucose or maltose monoesters such as methyl o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and
  • the (3) fatty alcohol ethers of sugars which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may be solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 °C and may be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol and of glucose, of maltose, of sucrose or of fructose, and ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C 14 -C 22 fatty alcohol and of methylglucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.
  • the C 8 -C 2 or C 14 -C 22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers which may be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty unit of the ethers may be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.
  • alkylpolyglucosides such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside, which is sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC.
  • the surfactant used more particularly is sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, methylglucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate and alkylpolyglucosides.
  • the (4) fatty esters of glycerol which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 10 glycerol units.
  • esters formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 10 glycerol units may be used in the present invention.
  • esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates and palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.
  • surfactants which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of decaglyceryl monostearate, distearate, tristearate and pentastearate (CTFA names: Poly glyceryl- 10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 distearate, Poly glyceryl- 10 tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate), such as the products sold under the respective names Nikkol Decaglyn 1 -S, 2-S, 3-S and 5-S by the company Nikko, and diglyceryl monostearate (CTFA name: Polyglyceryl-2 stearate), such as the product sold by the company Nikko under the name Nikkol DGMS.
  • the (4) fatty esters of sorbitan which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, may be chosen from the group comprising C 16 -C 22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and oxyethylenated C 16 -C 22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan.
  • oxyethylenated esters generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.
  • esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.
  • nonionic surfactant can be used in the present invention
  • sorbitan monopalmitate CFAname: Sorbitan palmitate
  • sorbitan tristearate 20 EO CFA name: Polysorbate 65
  • Tween 65 sorbitan tristearate 20 EO
  • the (4) ethoxylated fatty ethers that are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C are preferably ethers formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and from at least one fatty alcohol chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty chain of the ethers may be chosen in particular from behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.
  • ethoxylated fatty ethers which may be mentioned are behenyl alcohol ethers comprising 5, 10, 20 and 30 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Beheneth-5, Beheneth-10, Beheneth-20, Beheneth-30), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BB5, BB10, BB20 and BB30 by the company Nikko, and stearyl alcohol ether comprising 2 ethylene oxide units (CTFAname: Steareth-2), such as the product sold under the name Brij 72 by the company ICI.
  • CTFA names Beheneth-5, Beheneth-10, Beheneth-20, Beheneth-30
  • CTFAname stearyl alcohol ether comprising 2 ethylene oxide units
  • the (4) ethoxylated fatty esters that are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 °C, which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, are esters formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and from at least one fatty acid chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty chain in the esters may be chosen in particular from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof.
  • ethoxylated fatty esters which may be mentioned are the ester of stearic acid comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CTFAname: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, as well as the ester of behenic acid comprising 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFAname: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.
  • CTFAname: PEG-8 behenate 8 ethylene oxide units
  • the (5) block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and of propylene oxide (B), which may be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, may be chosen in particular from block copolymers of formula (TV):
  • the cationic surfactant is not limited.
  • the cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include, but are not limited to: those of general formula (I) below:
  • Ri, R 2 , R 3 , and R4 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C 2 -C 6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide,
  • R 5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallo w or of coconut;
  • e is chosen from hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • R 7 is chosen from Q-C4 alkyl radicals;
  • R is chosen from hydrogen and Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals
  • X " is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates.
  • R and are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 is methyl and 3 ⁇ 4 is hydrogen.
  • examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco;
  • R 9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Rio is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group
  • Rn, R 12 , Ri 3 , RM, Ri 6a , Ri?a, and R 18a which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • X " is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (IV) below:
  • R 22 is chosen from Q-C 6 alkyl radicals and Ci-C ⁇ hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
  • R 23 is chosen from:
  • R 25 is chosen from:
  • R '.28 c linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Q-C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R 29 , and hydrogen
  • R24, R26, and R 2 8 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C7-C 21 , hydrocarbon-based radicals;
  • r, s, and t which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
  • y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10;
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
  • X " is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R 27 , and that when z is 0, R 25 denotes R 29 .
  • R 22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R 22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 27 , it may be long and comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 29 , it may comprise, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 24 , R 26 , and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2.
  • the anion X " may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and Ci-C 4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the invention.
  • the anion X " is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.
  • ammonium salts of formula (IV) may be used, wherein:
  • R 22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals
  • x and y are equal to 1;
  • z is equal to 0 or 1;
  • r, s and t are equal to 2;
  • R 23 is chosen from:
  • R 25 is chosen from: the radical below:
  • R24, R26, and 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, Ci 3 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
  • Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of
  • the acyl radicals may comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
  • These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiemanolarnine or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
  • This esterification may be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.
  • quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in compositions according to the invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium and
  • alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium,
  • cetyltrimethylarnmonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride cetyltrimethylarnmonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride
  • the cationic surfactant that may be used in the compositions of the invention is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, for example from
  • the anionic surfactant is not limited.
  • the anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin or of silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides, and their mixtures.
  • Anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin are protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, it being possible for the said hydrophobic group to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by reaction of the protein and/or of the protein hydrolysate with a hydrophobic compound.
  • the proteins are of vegetable origin or derived from silk, and the hydrophobic group can in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Mention may more particularly be made, as anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin, of apple, wheat, soybean or oat protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and their salts.
  • the alkyl chain can in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt can be a sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salt.
  • protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group
  • salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is a silk protein modified by lauric acid, such as the product sold under the name Kawa Silk by Kawaken
  • salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is a wheat protein modified by lauric acid, such as the potassium salt sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by Croda (CTFA name: potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids) and the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol LW 30 by Seppic (CTFAname: sodium lauroyl wheat amino acids)
  • salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is an oat protein comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and more especially salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is an oat protein modified by lauric acid, such as the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol OAT (30% aqueous solution) by Seppic (CTFAname: sodium lauroyl oat
  • phosphates and alkyl phosphates for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate, the mixture of mono- and diesters (predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® by Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono(Ci 2 -C 1 3)alkyl phosphate, sold under the references Arlatone MAP 230K-40® and Arla
  • amido ether carboxylates such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO), sold under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals;
  • polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts such as oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C 12 -C 14 -C 16 ), sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao
  • organic or inorganic base such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.
  • amino acid derivatives of alkali salts of amino acids, such as:
  • sarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol;
  • glutamates such as Methanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the name
  • Acylglutamate CT- 12® by Aj inomoto triemanolarnine lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by Ajinomoto;
  • aspartates such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the name Asparack® by Mitsubishi;
  • glycine derivatives such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto;
  • citrates such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated (9 mol) coco alcohols, sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt; and
  • galacturonates such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate, sold by Soliance. 5
  • alkyl sulphates for example, of tiiemanolamine lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: TEA lauryl sulphate), such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol TL40 FL or the product sold by Cognis under the name Texapon T42, which products are at 40% in aqueous solution.
  • CTFA name ammonium lauryl sulphate
  • Empicol AL 30FL which is at 30% in aqueous solution.
  • alkyl ether sulphates for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the names Texapon N40 and
  • Texapon AOS 225 UP by Cognis or ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the name Standapol EA-2 by Cognis.
  • CFA name ammonium laureth sulphate
  • sulphonates for example, of a-olefmsulphonates, such as sodium a-olefinsulphonate (Ci 4 -C 16 ), sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40® by Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege® and Sulframine AOS PH 12® by Witco or sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG® by Stepan, secondary sodium olefmsulphonate, sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30® by Clariant; or linear alkylarylsulphonates, such as sodium xylenesulphonate, sold under the names Manrosol SXS30®, Manrosol SXS40® and Manrosol SXS93® by Manro.
  • a-olefmsulphonates such as sodium a-olefinsulphonate (Ci 4 -C 16 )
  • Bio-Terge AS-40® by Stepan
  • taurates of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by Clariant; N-acyl-N-methyltaurates, such as sodium
  • alkyl polyglucosides can in particular be citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides.
  • the amino acid derivatives be acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives, in particular acyl glycine salt.
  • acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives can be chosen from acyl glycine salts (or acyl glycinates) or glycine salts (or glycinates), and in particular from the following. i) Acyl glycinates of formula (I):
  • X represents a cation chosen, for example, from the ions of alkali metals, such as Na, Li or
  • K preferably Na or K
  • alkaline earth metals such as Mg, ammonium groups and their mixtures.
  • the acyl group can in particular be chosen from the lauroyl, myristoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl or oleoyl groups and their mixtures.
  • R is a cocoyl group.
  • Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms;
  • R 1 is advantageously chosen from the lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, cetyl, cetearyl or oleyl groups and their mixtures and preferably from the stearyl and oleyl groups,
  • R 2 groups which are identical or different, represent an R"OH group, R" being an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • R being an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • Mention may be made, as compound of formula (I), for example, of the compounds carrying the INCI name sodium cocoyl glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCS-12, sold by Ajinomoto, or potassium cocoyl glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCK-12 from Ajinomoto.
  • the amphoteric surfactant is not limited.
  • the amphoteric or z itterionic surfactants can be, for example (nonlimiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate).
  • the amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos.
  • Ri denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,
  • R 2 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • R 3 denotes a carboxymethyl group
  • X' denotes a -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH group, -CH 2 -COOZ' , -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ' or a hydrogen atom
  • Y' denotes -COOH, -COOZ', -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 Z' or a -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 H radical
  • Z' represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion issued from an organic amine, and
  • Ri' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R ⁇ -COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C 7 , C 9 , Ca or C 13 alkyl radical, a C ⁇ y alkyl radical and its iso form, or an unsaturated C i 7 radical .
  • amphoteric surfactant be selected from (C 8 -C 24 )-alkyl amphomonoacetates, (C8-C 2 4)alkyl amphodiacetates, (C8-C 24 )alkyl amphomonopropionates, and (C 8 -C 24 )alkyl amphodipropionates
  • Caprylamphodiacetate Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid and Cocoamphodipropionic acid.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • amphoteric surfactant may be a betaine.
  • the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and
  • alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines in particular, (C 8 -C2 4 )alkylbetaines
  • amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (C8-C2 4 )alkylbetaines,
  • Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine,
  • oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.
  • the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine and an
  • allcylamidoalkylbetaine in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
  • the amount of the additional surfactant(s) may be 0.01 wt% to 20 wt%, preferably 0.10 wt% to 10 wt%, and more preferably 1 wt% to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one thickening agent.
  • a single type of thickening agent may be used, but two or more different types of thickening agent may be used in combination.
  • the thickening agent may be selected from organic and inorganic thickeners.
  • the organic thickeners may be chosen at least one of:
  • nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one of ethylenically unsaturated ester monomers and ethylenically unsaturated amide monomers;
  • the thickening agent is preferably selected from associative thickeners.
  • amalgamative thickener means an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, for example, comprising at least one C 8 -C 30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
  • Associative thickeners disclosed herein that may be used are associative polymers chosen from:
  • nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit
  • anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit;
  • amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit;
  • fatty chain unit contains from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited.
  • the viscosity can be measured at 25 °C with viscosimeters or rheometers preferably with coneplan geometry.
  • the tWckening agent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 % to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, such as from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other ingredients, known previously elsewhere in lightening or coloring compositions, such as various common adjuvants, sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, UV screening agents, silicones other than those mentioned before (such as with amine groups), preserving agents, vitamins or provitamins, for instance, panthenol, opacifiers, fragrances, plant extracts, cationic polymers and so on.
  • other ingredients known previously elsewhere in lightening or coloring compositions, such as various common adjuvants, sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, UV screening agents, silicones other than those mentioned before (such as with amine groups), preserving agents, vitamins or provitamins, for instance, panthenol, opacifiers, fragrances, plant extracts, cationic polymers and so on.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent.
  • the organic solvent is preferably water miscible.
  • the organic solvent there may be mentioned, for example, Q-C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; analogous products; and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from less than 10% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight or less, and more preferably from 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with a conventional process.
  • the conventional process includes mixing with a high pressure homogenizer (a high energy process).
  • the cosmetic composition can be prepared by a low energy processes such as phase inversion temperature process (PIT), phase inversion concentration (PIC), autoemulsification, and the like.
  • PIT phase inversion temperature process
  • PIC phase inversion concentration
  • autoemulsification and the like.
  • the total amount of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be below 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the surfactants to the (a) oil may be from 0.3 to 6, preferably from 0.4 to 3, and more preferably from 0.45 to 1.5.
  • the weight ratio of the surfactants/the (a) oil is preferably 1 or less, such as from 0.3 to 1, preferably from 0.4 to 1, and more preferably from 0.45 to 1.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion.
  • the "micro-emulsion” may be defined in two ways, namely, in a broader sense and in a narrower sense. That is to say, there are one case (“microemulsion in the narrow sense”) in which the microemulsion refers to a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase containing a ternary system having three ingredients of an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant, and the other case (“micro-emulsion in the broad sense”) in which among
  • microemulsion additionally includes those such emulsions presenting transparent or translucent appearances due to their smaller particle sizes (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., OilChemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53).
  • the "micro-emulsion” as used herein refers to a "micro-emulsion in the narrow sense," i.e., a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase.
  • the micro-emulsion refers to either one state of an O/W (oil-in-water) type microemulsion in which oil is solubilized by micelles, a W/O (water-in-oil) type microemulsion in which water is solubilized by reverse micelles, or a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant molecules are rendered infinite so that both the aqueous phase and oil phase have a continuous structure.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant molecules are rendered infinite so that both the aqueous phase and oil phase have a continuous structure.
  • nano-emulsion here means an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase with a size of less than 350 nm, the dispersed phase being stabilized by a crown of the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester, the like that may optionally form a liquid crystal phase of lamellar type, at the dispersed phase/continuous phase interface.
  • the transparency of the nano-emulsions arises from the small size of the dispersed phase, this small size being obtained by virtue of the use of mechanical energy and especially a high-pressure homogenizer.
  • Nanoemulsions can be distinguished from microemulsions by their structure.
  • micro-emulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions formed from, for example, micells which are formed by the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester, the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester, and the like, and are swollen with the (a) oil. Furthermore, microemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy in order to be prepared.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O/W nano- or micro-emulsion, a W/O nano- or micro-emulsion or a bicontinuous emulsion. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W nano- or micro-emulsion.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W emulsion, and the (a) oil be in the form of a droplet with a number average particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably from 10 nm to 150 nm, and more preferably 20 nm to 140 nm.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearacnce.
  • the measurement is taken on the undiluted composition.
  • the blank is determined with distilled water.
  • the transparency may be measured by measuring the nephelometric turbidity (for example, with 2100Q Portable Turbidimeter from HACH)
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may preferably have a
  • nephelometric turbidity lower than 150NTU, preferably lower than 100 NTU, and more preferably Lower than 50 NTU.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and or the scalp, by being applied to the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the scalp.
  • a cosmetic process for treating the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and or the scalp, by being applied to the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the scalp.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, as it is or in care products and/or washing products and/or make-up products and/or make-up-removing products for body and/or facial skin and/or mucous membranes and or the scalp and/or the hair and/or the nails and or the eyelashes and or the eyebrows.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used, as it is, as the above product.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may preferably be a cleansing product such as a make-up removing products for body and or facial skin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of the above product.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other elements to form the above product.
  • the care product may be a lotion, a cream, a hair tonic, a hair conditioner, a sun screening agent, and the like.
  • the washing product may be a shampoo, a face wash, a hand wash and the like.
  • the make-up product may be a foundation, a mascara, a lipstick, a lip gloss, a blusher, an eye shadow, a nail varnish, and the like.
  • the make-up-removing product may be a make-up cleansing agent and the like.
  • compositions according to Examples A-F shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows: (1) mixing surfactants and oils to form an oil phase; (2) heating the oil phase up to around 70 °C; (3) mixing water and hydrophilic ingredients to form an aqueous phase; and (4) adding the aqueous phase into the oil phase followed by mixing them to obtain an O/W emulsion.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
  • the transparency of the composition was measured by measuring the nephelometric turbidity with 2100Q Portable Turbidimeter from HACH. "Good” means that the nephelometric turbidity is below 80 NTU.
  • a waterproof mascara was appied on the eyelashes of the woman (30 times on upper lashes and 30 times on lower lashes), then wait for 30 minutes that the mascara dried.
  • a cotton pad (cotton was impregnated with 1 mL of the composition) was applied on the eyelashes.
  • the eyelashes were pinched with the cotton for 5 seconds, and then the cotton was removed.
  • the mascara removability was measured by the average number of cottons necessary until there was no waterproof mascara remaining neither on the eyelashes nor the cotton. The last cotton (with no mascara remaining) does not count.
  • the levels of the mascara removability are as follows:
  • a liquid foundation was applied on the face of the woman (0.3 mL for one face), then wait for 30 minutes that the foundation dried. Next, the composition (3 mL for one face) was applied. The whole face was massaged with hands during 30 seconds. Then, me face was rinsed with tap water by the panelist. The residue of foundation on the skin was checked by rubbing a clean cotton pad on the cheek of the panelist. The foundation removability was measured by the average number of cotton pads until no residue of foundation was observed on the cotton pad. The last cotton (with no foundation remaining) does not count. The levels of the foundation removability are as follows. Good: 2 cottons or less
  • Rinsing speed was measured by the average number of times of water splashing until no product residue was felt on the skin.
  • the levels of the rinsability are as follows.
  • Penetol GE-IS (Kao corp) The aspect, the transparency 1 day after at room temperature, and mascara removability of each composition Comparative Examples 1-4 were measured and determined, as shown above. The results are shown in Table 4. Table 4
  • Comparative Example 4 was tested with regard to mascara removability. The mascara removability of Comparative Example 4 was poor (more than 10 cottons were necessary to remove all the mascara).

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more C12-20 alkyl or alkenyl chains; (c) at least one second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more C6-10 alkyl or alkenyl chains; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion with transparent or slightly translucent aspect which can be maintained without depending on temperature. Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have good cosmetic properties such as cleansing and rinsing properties, and possibly less discomfort feeling to touch.

Description

DESCRIPTION
COSMETIC COMPOSITION TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion.
BACKGROUND ART
Microemulsions (oil in water, water in oil or bicontinuous) have been developed these last years as an alternative of cleansing oils very much appreciated for their excellent efficacy on foundation and waterproof mascara. The advantage of nano- or micro- emulsion is to present sometimes better rinsibility for usually same make-up removal efficacy. Besides, the cost of the nano- or micro-emulsions can be reduced because of their lower oil content.
For example, US2006/0078525, discloses some microemulsions. In addition, US2007/011663, JP-A-2010-222323, JP-A-2006-241151, EP-A-1952795, JP-2010-280664, and JP-2010-280643 disclose some types of emulsions.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
However, it happens that microemulsions are not all equivalent in terms of cosmeticity - efficacy and rinsibility - tolerance for skin and eyes, and stability.
An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable cosmetic, optionally cleansing, composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion with transparent or slightly translucent, preferably transparent, aspect of the emulsion. Another objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic cleansing composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion with good cosmetic properties such as cleansing and rinsing properties, and possibly less skin and eyes discomfort feeling.
The above objectives of the present invention can be achieved by a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising:
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl moiety
derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more Cn-20 alkyl or alkenyl chains;
(c) at least one second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more C6-10 alkyl or alkenyl chains;
(d) at least one polyol; and
(e) water.
The total amount of the PGFE surfactants ((b) + (c)) in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be below 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, and hydrocarbon oils. Preferably, the (a) oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils which are in the form of a liquid at a room temperature, and most preferably among ester oil, alkane oil, and ether oil. It may be preferable that the (a) oil be chosen from oils with molecular weight below 600 g/mol.
The amount of the (a) oil may range from lOto 40% by weight, preferably from 15to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant may have an HLB value of from 8.0 to 13, preferably from 9.0 to 13, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0. It is preferable that the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant be chosen from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono(or di-)(iso)stearate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units. The amount of the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant may range from 0.1 to 14% by weight, preferably from 1 to 13% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant may have an HLB value of from 6.0 to 13.0, preferably from 6.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 7.0 to 11.0.
The (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant may be chosen from (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 or 2 glycerins, preferably glyceryl caprylate, PG-2 caprate, and a mixture thereof.
The amount of the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant may range from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional nonionic surfactant different from the above (b) or (c) and/or at least one ionic surfactant.
For example, the above additional nonionic surfactant may be (f) at least one
oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant.
The amount of the (f) at least one oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant may range from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The total amount of all the surfatants in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be below 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The weight ratio of the total amount of the surfactants to the (a) oil may be from 0.3 to 6, preferably from 0.4 to 3, and more preferably from 0.45 to 1.5.
Polyol is preferably bivalent and trivalent, and more preferably bivalent. Preferred polyols are butylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and PEG8. The amount of total polyols may be between 4% and 50%, preferably between 6% and 40%, and more preferably between 8% and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one thickening agent, preferably selected from associative thickeners. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W emulsion, and the (a) oil be in the form of a droplet with a number average particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably from 10 ran to 150 nm.
It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention have a
nephelometric turbidity below 150 NTU, preferably below 100 NTU, and more preferably below 50 NTU.
Further, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for treating the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and/or the scalp, characterized in that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the scalp.
Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, as or in care products and/or washing products and/or make-up products and/or make-up-removing products, such as cleansing products, for body and/or facial skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp and/or the hair and/or the nails and/or the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a stable, preferably makeup removing, cosmetic coinposition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion with transparent or slightly translucent, preferably transparent, aspect of the emulsion,by using a relatively little amount of nonionic surfactants compared to the amount of oil.
Further, the transparent or slightly translucent aspect of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be maintained without depending on temperature. Furthermore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have good cosmetic properties such as cleansing and rinsing properties, and possibly less discomfort feeling to skin and eyes. Thus, the present invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising:
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl moiety
derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more C12-2o alkyl or alkenyl chains;
(c) at least one second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more C6-io alkyl or alkenyl chains;
(d) at least one polyol; and
(e) water.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a dispersed phase which has a smaller diameter due to a combination of the first and second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters and polyol(s). Therefore, the cosmetic composition can be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion with transparent or slightly translucent.
Hereinafter, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
[Oil]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil. Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non- volatile, preferably non-volatile.
The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil; or a mixture thereof. It is preferable that the (a) oil contains at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from ester, ether and alkane oils.
As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane. As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of ester oils and artificial triglyceride.
The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched d-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isonononyl
isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl isostearate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
Ether oil might include dicaprylyl ether.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of
monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate;
diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:
linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparafm s, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil(e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
It is preferable that the (a) oil be chosen from hydrocarbon oils which are in the form of a liquid at a room temperature.
It is also preferable that the (a) oil be chosen from oils with molecular weight below 600 g mol.
Preferably, the (a) oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g/mol, chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), hydrocarbon oils with a short alkyl chain or chains (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), short alcohol type oils such as octyldodecanol.
The amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the (a) oil is not limited, and may range from 10 to 40% by weight, preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[(Poly)glyceryl Fatty Acid Ester] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least two different (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters as main surfactants. The (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters can function as nonionic surfactants.
One is a first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more C!2-2o alkyl or alkenyl chains.
The other is a second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more C6-10 alkyl or alkenyl chains. (First (Poly)glyceryl Fatty Acid Ester)
It is preferable that the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester have a (poly)glycol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycols, more preferably from 3 to 6 glycols, and further more preferably 5 or 6 glycols.
The (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0. If two or more (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weight average of the HLB values of all the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters. The HLB is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. This term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).
The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant.
The HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surfactants) used according to the invention is the HLB according to Griffin, defined in the publication J. Soc. Cosm. Chem., 1954 (Vol 5), pages 249-256 or the HLB determined experimentally and as described in the publication from the authors F. Puisieux and M. Seiller, entitled "Galenica 5: Les systemes disperses [Dispersed systems] - Volume I - Agents de surface et emulsions [Surface agents and emulsions] - Chapter TV - Notions de HLB et de HLB critique [Notions of HLB and of critical HLB], pages 153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Determination de HLB par voie experimentale [Experimental determination of HLB], pages 164-180.
It is preferably the calculated HLB values that should be taken into account. The calculated HLB is defined as being the following coefficient:
calculated HLB = 20 χ molar mass of the hydrophilic part/total molar mass.
For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units fused to the fatty alcohol and the calculated HLB then corresponds to the HLB according to Griffin (Griffin W.C., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chemists, 5, 249, 1954).
The (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from the mono, di and tri esters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 19 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and myristic acid.
The (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleare, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleare, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleare, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleare, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleare, PG10 laurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate, and PG10 trioleare. It is preferable that the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester be chosen from:
polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,
polyglyceryl dilaurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units
polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,
polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, and
- polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units.
In one embodiment, the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester raw material may be chosen from a mixture of (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 3 to 6 glycerins, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerins, wherein the mixture preferably comprises 30% by weight or more of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with a polyglyceryl moiety consisting of 5 or 6 glycerins.
It is preferable than the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester raw material comprises esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing 70% or more of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 4 or more, preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 60% of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is between 4 and 11, and more preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 30% of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 5. The amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the (b) first
(poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester is not limited, and may range from 0.1 to 14% by weight, preferably from 1 to 13% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Second (Poly)glyceryl Fatty Acid Ester)
It is preferable that the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester have a (poly)glycol moiety derived from 1 to 6 glycols, more preferably from 1 to 4 glycols, and further more preferably 1 or 2 glycols.
The (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of from 6.0 to 13.0, preferably from 6.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 7.0 to 10.0. If two or more (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weight average of the HLB values of all the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters.
The (c) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from the mono, di and tri esters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 6 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 9 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 8 carbon atoms, such as capric acid and caprylic acid. The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG10 caprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, and PG10 tricaprylate.
It is preferable that the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester be chosen from:
- (poly)glyceryl caprate comprising 1 or 2 glycerol units, and
(poly)glyceryl caprylate comprising 1 or 2 glycerol units.
In one embodiment, the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from
(poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 or 2 glycerins, preferably glyceryl caprylate, PG-2 caprate, and a mixture thereof.
The amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester is not limited, and may range from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Polyol]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.
The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alky 1 group, a
hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acylgroup or a carbonyl group. The polyol may be a C2-C 12 polyol, preferably a C2-9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.
The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
The polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethyleneglycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, and 1,5-pentanediol. The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, such as from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Water]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water.
The amount of water is not limited, and may be from 10 to 85% by weight, preferably from 20 to 70% by weight, and more preferably 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Additional Surfactant] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional nonionic surfactant different from the above (b) or (c) and/or at least one additional ionic surfactant. A single type of additional surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of additional surfactant may be used in combination. The ionic surfactant can be selected from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants.
(Oxyalkylene-including Nonionic Surfactant)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant, as the above additional nonionic surfactant. A single type of oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant may be used in combination.
The oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant according to the present invention may be selected from mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters.
It is preferable that the mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester have a (poly)oxyalkylene moiety derived from 1 to 200 oxyalkylenes, preferably from 3 to 150 oxyalkylenes, and more preferably 4 to 120 oxyalkylenes. The (poly)oxyalkylene moiety may be derived from alkylene glycols such as ethyleneglycol, propylene glycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, and the like. The
(poly)oxyalkylene moiety may contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 200 and preferably between 2 and 150. Advantageously, the
oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant does not comprise any oxypropylene units.
The mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester may be chosen from the mono and di esters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid. Examples of mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C2-C30, preferably C6-C3o and more preferably C8-C3o acids and of polyethylene glycols. Examples of mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 8 to 120 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-8 to PEG- 120 laurate (as the CTFA names: PEG-8 laurate to PEG-120 laurate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 myristate (as the CTEAnames: PEG-8 mysistate to PEG-120 mysistate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 palmitate (as the CTFAnames: PEG-8 palmitate to PEG-120 palmitate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 stearate (as the CTFAnames: PEG-8 stearate to
PEG-120 stearate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 isostearate (as the CTFAnames: PEG-8 isostearate to PEG-120 isostearate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 oleate (as the CTFAnames: PEG-8 oleate to PEG-120 oleate); PEG-8 to PEG-120 behenate (as the CTFAnames: PEG-8 behenate to PEG-120 behenate); and mixtures thereof.
Other examples of mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include Steareth-100 available as Brij 700 from Uniqema Inc., Pareth alcohols available as Performathox 450, 480 and 490 available from New Phase Technologies, Inc. Suitable examples of di-alkyl substituted polymers include PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate available as Glutamate DOE- 120 and Glucamate DOE- 120 both from Chemron Corporation. Suitable examples of tri-alkyl substituted polymers include PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate available as Glucamate LT from Chemron Corporation. Suitable examples of tetra-alkyl substituted polymers include PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate available as Crothix from Croda Corporation.
It is preferable that polyglycol fatty acid ester be selected from the group consisting of PEG-120 oleate, PEG-120 methyl glycose dioleate, and a mixture thereof.
The amount of the (e) oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant is not limited, and may range from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Other Additional Nonionic Surfactant) The additional nonionic surfactant may be selected from the following:
(1) surfactants that are fluid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 °C, chosen from the esters of at least one polyol chosen from the group formed by polyethylene glycol comprising from 1 to 60 ethylene oxide units, sorbitan, glycerol comprising from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerols comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl chain,
(2) mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and of glycerol,
(3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, such as alkylpolyglucoside,
(4) surfactants that are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, chosen from fatty esters of glycerol, fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyethylenated fatty esters of sorbitan, ethoxylated fatty ethers and ethoxylated fatty esters, and
(5) block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and of propylene oxide (B), and
(6) silicone surfactants. The (1) surfactants that are fluid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C may be, in particular:
the isostearate of polyethylene glycol of molecular weight 400, sold under the name PEG 400 by the company Unichema;
diglyceryl isostearate, sold by the company Solvay;
- glyceryl laurate comprising 2 glycerol units, sold by the company Solvay;
sorbitan oleate, sold under the name Span 80 by the company ICI;
sorbitan isostearate, sold under the name Nikkol SI 1 OR by the company Nikko; and cc-butylglucoside cocoate or a-butylglucoside caprate, sold by the company Ulice. The (2) mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and of glycerol, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may be chosen in particular from the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol with an alkyl chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and of a-hydroxy acid and/or of succinic acid, with glycerol. The -hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which are derived the mixed esters which can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. They may especially be stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate,
arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of mixed esters which can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention, mention may be made of the mixed ester of glycerol and of the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFAname: Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate) sold by the company Hiils under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and of isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFAname: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by the company Hills under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and of stearic acid with glycerol (CTFAname:
Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by the company Hills under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and of stearic acid with glycerol (CTFAname: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by the company Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.
The (3) fatty acid esters of sugars, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may preferably be solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C and may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of C8-C22 fatty acid and of sucrose, of maltose, of glucose or of fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C14-C22 fatty acid and of methylglucose.
The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters which can be used in the present invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.
As examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and of sucrose, of maltose, of glucose or of fructose, mention may be made of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, such as the products sold by the company Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, Fl 10 and F160; and examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and of methylglucose which may be mentioned are methylglucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate, sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tego-care 450. Mention may also be made of glucose or maltose monoesters such as methyl o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and
o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.
The (3) fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may be solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 °C and may be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of C8-C22 fatty alcohol and of glucose, of maltose, of sucrose or of fructose, and ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C14-C22 fatty alcohol and of methylglucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.
The C8-C2 or C14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers which may be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the ethers may be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. As examples of fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside, which is sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC.
The surfactant used more particularly is sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, methylglucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate and alkylpolyglucosides.
The (4) fatty esters of glycerol which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 10 glycerol units. One or more of these fatty esters of glycerol may be used in the present invention.
These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates and palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used. As examples of surfactants which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of decaglyceryl monostearate, distearate, tristearate and pentastearate (CTFA names: Poly glyceryl- 10 stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 distearate, Poly glyceryl- 10 tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate), such as the products sold under the respective names Nikkol Decaglyn 1 -S, 2-S, 3-S and 5-S by the company Nikko, and diglyceryl monostearate (CTFA name: Polyglyceryl-2 stearate), such as the product sold by the company Nikko under the name Nikkol DGMS.
The (4) fatty esters of sorbitan which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, may be chosen from the group comprising C16-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan and oxyethylenated C16-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan.
They are formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and from sorbitol or from ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.
These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.
As examples of the above nonionic surfactant can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFAname: Sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: Polysorbate 65), sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65. The (4) ethoxylated fatty ethers that are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, are preferably ethers formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and from at least one fatty alcohol chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain of the ethers may be chosen in particular from behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers which may be mentioned are behenyl alcohol ethers comprising 5, 10, 20 and 30 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Beheneth-5, Beheneth-10, Beheneth-20, Beheneth-30), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BB5, BB10, BB20 and BB30 by the company Nikko, and stearyl alcohol ether comprising 2 ethylene oxide units (CTFAname: Steareth-2), such as the product sold under the name Brij 72 by the company ICI.
The (4) ethoxylated fatty esters that are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 °C, which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, are esters formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and from at least one fatty acid chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain in the esters may be chosen in particular from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof. Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters which may be mentioned are the ester of stearic acid comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CTFAname: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, as well as the ester of behenic acid comprising 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFAname: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse. The (5) block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and of propylene oxide (B), which may be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, may be chosen in particular from block copolymers of formula (TV):
HO(C2H40)x(C3H60)y(C2ii40)zH (IV) in which x, y and z are integers such that x+z ranges from 2 to 100 and y ranges from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from the block copolymers of formula (IV) having an HLB value ranging from 8.0 to 14.0.
(Cationic Surfactant)
The cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to: those of general formula (I) below:
R] R,
N. X"
/ \
R;2 i
(I)
wherein
Ri, R2, R3, and R4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide,
(C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X" is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates;
quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (II) below:
Figure imgf000016_0001
(II)
wherein:
R5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallo w or of coconut;
e is chosen from hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R7 is chosen from Q-C4 alkyl radicals;
Rs is chosen from hydrogen and Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; and
X" is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R and are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 is methyl and ¾ is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco;
diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (III):
<19
Rp— ?sr (C¾k— ' — Ry 2X-
Ri R .0
(III)
wherein:
R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
Rio is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group
(Rl6a)(Rl7a)(Rl8a)N+(CH2)3;
Rn, R12, Ri3, RM, Ri6a, Ri?a, and R18a, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
X" is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates.
An example of one such diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P of
FINETEX(Quaternium-89) or FINQUAT CT of FTNETEX (Quaternium-75); and
quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (IV) below:
Figure imgf000017_0001
wherein:
R22 is chosen from Q-C6 alkyl radicals and Ci-C^ hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals; R23 is chosen from:
the radical blow:
O
R 26
linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R27, and hydrogen,
R25 is chosen from:
the radical below: o
R '.28 c linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Q-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R29, and hydrogen,
R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C7-C21, hydrocarbon-based radicals;
r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
each of rl and tl, which may be identical or different, is 0 or 1, and r2+rl=2r and tl+2t=2t;
y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X" is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0, R25 denotes R29. R22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it may comprise, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and
unsaturated, Cn-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Cn-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X" may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and Ci-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the invention. In one embodiment, the anion X" is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.
In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (IV) may be used, wherein:
R22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals,
x and y are equal to 1;
z is equal to 0 or 1;
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R23 is chosen from:
the radical below:
Figure imgf000018_0001
methyl, ethyl, and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, hydrogen;
R25 is chosen from: the radical below:
O
R28 C~
and hydrogen;
R24, R26, and 28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, Ci3-C17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear. Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of
diacyloxyemyl-hydroxyethyl-methylamm- onium, of
monoacyloxyethyl-dmydroxyethyl-methylarnmonium, of !riacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl- ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiemanolarnine or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.
Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions according to the invention include the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180. Among the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in compositions according to the invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium and
alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium,
cetyltrimethylarnmonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride;
palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" by the company Van Dyk. According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that may be used in the compositions of the invention is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, for example from
behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dmydroxypropyldimemylarnmonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimemylammonium chloride, and
stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
(Anionic Surfactant)
The anionic surfactant is not limited. The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin or of silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides, and their mixtures.
1) Anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin are protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, it being possible for the said hydrophobic group to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by reaction of the protein and/or of the protein hydrolysate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of vegetable origin or derived from silk, and the hydrophobic group can in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Mention may more particularly be made, as anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin, of apple, wheat, soybean or oat protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and their salts. The alkyl chain can in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt can be a sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salt.
Thus, mention may be made, as protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, for example, of salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is a silk protein modified by lauric acid, such as the product sold under the name Kawa Silk by Kawaken; salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is a wheat protein modified by lauric acid, such as the potassium salt sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by Croda (CTFA name: potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids) and the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol LW 30 by Seppic (CTFAname: sodium lauroyl wheat amino acids); salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is an oat protein comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and more especially salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is an oat protein modified by lauric acid, such as the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol OAT (30% aqueous solution) by Seppic (CTFAname: sodium lauroyl oat amino acids); or salts of apple protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol APL (30% aqueous/glycol solution) by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium cocoyl apple amino acids). Mention may also be made of the mixture of lauroyl amino acids (aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, alanine) neutralized with sodium N-methylglycinate sold under the name Proteol SAV 50 S by Seppic (CTFAname:
sodium cocoyl amino acids).
2) Mention may be made, as phosphates and alkyl phosphates, for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate, the mixture of mono- and diesters (predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® by Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono(Ci2-C13)alkyl phosphate, sold under the references Arlatone MAP 230K-40® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60® by Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate, sold under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09® by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl phosphate, sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by Uniqema.
3) Mention may be made, as carboxylates, of:
amido ether carboxylates (AEC), such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO), sold under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals;
polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C12-C14-C16), sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao
Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fatty acids originating from olive oil, sold under the name Olivem 400® by Biologia E Tecnologia, or oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate, sold under the name Nikkol ECTD-6 EX® by Nikkol; and
- salts of fatty acids (soaps) having a C6 to C22 alkyl chain which are neutralized with an
organic or inorganic base, such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.
4) Mention may in particular be made, as amino acid derivatives, of alkali salts of amino acids, such as:
sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol;
- alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name
Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE® by Kawaken, or triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone ALTA® by Kawaken;
glutamates, such as Methanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the name
Acylglutamate CT- 12® by Aj inomoto, triemanolarnine lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by Ajinomoto;
aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the name Asparack® by Mitsubishi;
glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto;
citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated (9 mol) coco alcohols, sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt; and
galacturonates, such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate, sold by Soliance. 5) Mention may be made, as sulphosuccinates, for example, of oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl (70/30 2/ 4) alcohol monosulphosuccinate, sold under the names Setacin 103 Special® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of C12-Ci4 alcohols, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by Cognis, oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Lebon A-5000® by Sanyo, the disodium salt of oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50® by Witco, or ricinoleic monoethanolamide
monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewoderm S 1333® by Witco. Use may also be made of polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates, such as disodium PEG- 12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by Maclntyre.
6) Mention may be made, as alkyl sulphates, for example, of tiiemanolamine lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: TEA lauryl sulphate), such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol TL40 FL or the product sold by Cognis under the name Texapon T42, which products are at 40% in aqueous solution. Mention may also be made of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium lauryl sulphate), such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol AL 30FL, which is at 30% in aqueous solution.
7) Mention may be made, as alkyl ether sulphates, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the names Texapon N40 and
Texapon AOS 225 UP by Cognis, or ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the name Standapol EA-2 by Cognis.
8) Mention may be made, as sulphonates, for example, of a-olefmsulphonates, such as sodium a-olefinsulphonate (Ci4-C16), sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40® by Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege® and Sulframine AOS PH 12® by Witco or sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG® by Stepan, secondary sodium olefmsulphonate, sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30® by Clariant; or linear alkylarylsulphonates, such as sodium xylenesulphonate, sold under the names Manrosol SXS30®, Manrosol SXS40® and Manrosol SXS93® by Manro.
9) Mention may be made, as isethionates, of acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P® by Jordan.
10) Mention may be made, as taurates, of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by Clariant; N-acyl-N-methyltaurates, such as sodium
N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate, sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol. 11) The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides can in particular be citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) tartaric ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) sulphosuccinic ester, sold under the name Essai 512 MP® by Seppic, or the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) citric ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia. It is preferable that the amino acid derivatives be acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives, in particular acyl glycine salt. The acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives can be chosen from acyl glycine salts (or acyl glycinates) or glycine salts (or glycinates), and in particular from the following. i) Acyl glycinates of formula (I):
R-HNCH2COOX (I)
in which
R represents an acyl group R'C=0, with R', which represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon chain, preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and
X represents a cation chosen, for example, from the ions of alkali metals, such as Na, Li or
K, preferably Na or K, the ions of alkaline earth metals, such as Mg, ammonium groups and their mixtures.
The acyl group can in particular be chosen from the lauroyl, myristoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl or oleoyl groups and their mixtures.
Preferably, R is a cocoyl group. ii) Glycinates of following formula (II):
R2
I
R,— N+ CH2COO -
I RZ (»>
in which:
Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms; R1 is advantageously chosen from the lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, cetyl, cetearyl or oleyl groups and their mixtures and preferably from the stearyl and oleyl groups,
the R2 groups, which are identical or different, represent an R"OH group, R" being an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, as compound of formula (I), for example, of the compounds carrying the INCI name sodium cocoyl glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCS-12, sold by Ajinomoto, or potassium cocoyl glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCK-12 from Ajinomoto.
Use may be made, as compounds of formula (II), of dihydroxyethyl oleyl glycinate or
dihydroxyethyl stearyl glycinate. (Amphoteric Surfactant)
The amphoteric surfactant is not limited. The amphoteric or z itterionic surfactants can be, for example (nonlimiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate). Among the amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures:
R1-CONHCH2CH2-N+(R2)(R3)(CH2COO") in which:
Ri denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,
R2 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and
R3 denotes a carboxymethyl group; and
R1 *-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(C) in which:
B represents -CH2CH2OX',
C represents -(CH2)2-Y', with z=l or 2,
X' denotes a -CH2CH2-COOH group, -CH2-COOZ' , -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ' or a hydrogen atom,
Y' denotes -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH-S03Z' or a -CH2-CHOH-S03H radical,
Z' represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion issued from an organic amine, and
Ri' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R^-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C7, C9, Ca or C13 alkyl radical, a C\y alkyl radical and its iso form, or an unsaturated C i 7 radical .
It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be selected from (C8-C24)-alkyl amphomonoacetates, (C8-C24)alkyl amphodiacetates, (C8-C24)alkyl amphomonopropionates, and (C8-C24)alkyl amphodipropionates
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium
Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid and Cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant may be a betaine.
The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and
alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C8-C24)alkylbetaines,
(C8-C24)alkylamido(C1-C8)alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and
(C8-C24)alkylamido(C1-C8)alkylsulphobetaines. In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (C8-C24)alkylbetaines,
(Cg-C24)alkylamido(C1-Cs)alkylsulphobetaines, sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.
Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine,
stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine,
oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.
The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine and an
allcylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
The amount of the additional surfactant(s) may be 0.01 wt% to 20 wt%, preferably 0.10 wt% to 10 wt%, and more preferably 1 wt% to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Thickening Agent]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one thickening agent. A single type of thickening agent may be used, but two or more different types of thickening agent may be used in combination. The thickening agent may be selected from organic and inorganic thickeners.
The organic thickeners may be chosen at least one of:
(i) associative thickeners;
(ii) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers;
(iii) crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of (C1-C6)alkyl acrylate;
(iv) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one of ethylenically unsaturated ester monomers and ethylenically unsaturated amide monomers;
(v) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide;
(vi) polysaccharides; and
(vii) 2-C30 fatty alcohols. The thickening agent is preferably selected from associative thickeners.
As used herein, the expression "associative thickener" means an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, for example, comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
Associative thickeners disclosed herein that may be used are associative polymers chosen from:
(a) nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit;
(b) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit;
(c) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit; and
(d) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit;
wherein the fatty chain unit contains from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
The viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited. The viscosity can be measured at 25 °C with viscosimeters or rheometers preferably with coneplan geometry.
The tWckening agent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 % to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, such as from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Other Ingredients]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other ingredients, known previously elsewhere in lightening or coloring compositions, such as various common adjuvants, sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, UV screening agents, silicones other than those mentioned before (such as with amine groups), preserving agents, vitamins or provitamins, for instance, panthenol, opacifiers, fragrances, plant extracts, cationic polymers and so on.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent. So the organic solvent is preferably water miscible. As the organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example, Q-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; analogous products; and mixtures thereof.
The organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from less than 10% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight or less, and more preferably from 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Preparation and Properties] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with a conventional process. The conventional process includes mixing with a high pressure homogenizer (a high energy process).
Alternatively, the cosmetic composition can be prepared by a low energy processes such as phase inversion temperature process (PIT), phase inversion concentration (PIC), autoemulsification, and the like.
It is preferable that the total amount of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be below 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The weight ratio of the surfactants to the (a) oil may be from 0.3 to 6, preferably from 0.4 to 3, and more preferably from 0.45 to 1.5. In particular, the weight ratio of the surfactants/the (a) oil is preferably 1 or less, such as from 0.3 to 1, preferably from 0.4 to 1, and more preferably from 0.45 to 1.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion. The "micro-emulsion" may be defined in two ways, namely, in a broader sense and in a narrower sense. That is to say, there are one case ("microemulsion in the narrow sense") in which the microemulsion refers to a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase containing a ternary system having three ingredients of an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant, and the other case ("micro-emulsion in the broad sense") in which among
thermodynamically unstable typical emulsion systems the microemulsion additionally includes those such emulsions presenting transparent or translucent appearances due to their smaller particle sizes (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., OilChemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53). The "micro-emulsion" as used herein refers to a "micro-emulsion in the narrow sense," i.e., a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase.
The micro-emulsion refers to either one state of an O/W (oil-in-water) type microemulsion in which oil is solubilized by micelles, a W/O (water-in-oil) type microemulsion in which water is solubilized by reverse micelles, or a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant molecules are rendered infinite so that both the aqueous phase and oil phase have a continuous structure.
The "nano-emulsion" here means an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase with a size of less than 350 nm, the dispersed phase being stabilized by a crown of the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester, the like that may optionally form a liquid crystal phase of lamellar type, at the dispersed phase/continuous phase interface. In the absence of specific opacifiers, the transparency of the nano-emulsions arises from the small size of the dispersed phase, this small size being obtained by virtue of the use of mechanical energy and especially a high-pressure homogenizer. Nanoemulsions can be distinguished from microemulsions by their structure. Specifically, micro-emulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions formed from, for example, micells which are formed by the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester, the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester, and the like, and are swollen with the (a) oil. Furthermore, microemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy in order to be prepared.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O/W nano- or micro-emulsion, a W/O nano- or micro-emulsion or a bicontinuous emulsion. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W nano- or micro-emulsion.
It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W emulsion, and the (a) oil be in the form of a droplet with a number average particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably from 10 nm to 150 nm, and more preferably 20 nm to 140 nm. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearacnce.
The measurement is taken on the undiluted composition. The blank is determined with distilled water. The transparency may be measured by measuring the nephelometric turbidity (for example, with 2100Q Portable Turbidimeter from HACH)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may preferably have a
nephelometric turbidity lower than 150NTU, preferably lower than 100 NTU, and more preferably Lower than 50 NTU.
[Process and Use]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and or the scalp, by being applied to the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the scalp.
The present invention also relates to a use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, as it is or in care products and/or washing products and/or make-up products and/or make-up-removing products for body and/or facial skin and/or mucous membranes and or the scalp and/or the hair and/or the nails and or the eyelashes and or the eyebrows.
In other words, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used, as it is, as the above product. In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may preferably be a cleansing product such as a make-up removing products for body and or facial skin. Alternatively, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of the above product. For example the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other elements to form the above product. The care product may be a lotion, a cream, a hair tonic, a hair conditioner, a sun screening agent, and the like. The washing product may be a shampoo, a face wash, a hand wash and the like. The make-up product may be a foundation, a mascara, a lipstick, a lip gloss, a blusher, an eye shadow, a nail varnish, and the like. The make-up-removing product may be a make-up cleansing agent and the like.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[Examples A-F]
The following compositions according to Examples A-F, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows: (1) mixing surfactants and oils to form an oil phase; (2) heating the oil phase up to around 70 °C; (3) mixing water and hydrophilic ingredients to form an aqueous phase; and (4) adding the aqueous phase into the oil phase followed by mixing them to obtain an O/W emulsion. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
Table 1
Figure imgf000029_0001
(1) SUNSOFT A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku)
(2) PGLLA 105KC (KCI)
(3) SUNSOFT Q-83H-C (Taiyo Kagaku)
(4) SUNSOFT Q-10D-C (Taiyo Kagaku)
(5) PGLCP 102KC (KCI) (6) GLUCAMATE DOE120 (Lubrizol)
The transparency depending on temperature, makeup removability, rinsability as well as eyes and skin discomfort of the obtained compositions in the form of micro-emulsions according to Examples A-F were evaluated as follows. The results are shown in Table 2.
(Transparency)
The transparency of the composition was measured by measuring the nephelometric turbidity with 2100Q Portable Turbidimeter from HACH. "Good" means that the nephelometric turbidity is below 80 NTU.
(Makeup Removability) Mascara removability
The following test was performed with 6 women panels.
A waterproof mascara was appied on the eyelashes of the woman (30 times on upper lashes and 30 times on lower lashes), then wait for 30 minutes that the mascara dried.
Next, a cotton pad (cotton was impregnated with 1 mL of the composition) was applied on the eyelashes. The eyelashes were pinched with the cotton for 5 seconds, and then the cotton was removed. The mascara removability was measured by the average number of cottons necessary until there was no waterproof mascara remaining neither on the eyelashes nor the cotton. The last cotton (with no mascara remaining) does not count. The levels of the mascara removability are as follows:
Good: 6 cottons or less
Average: More than 6 or less than 10
Poor: 10 cottons or more
Foundation removability The following test was performed with 6 women panels.
A liquid foundation was applied on the face of the woman (0.3 mL for one face), then wait for 30 minutes that the foundation dried. Next, the composition (3 mL for one face) was applied. The whole face was massaged with hands during 30 seconds. Then, me face was rinsed with tap water by the panelist. The residue of foundation on the skin was checked by rubbing a clean cotton pad on the cheek of the panelist. The foundation removability was measured by the average number of cotton pads until no residue of foundation was observed on the cotton pad. The last cotton (with no foundation remaining) does not count. The levels of the foundation removability are as follows. Good: 2 cottons or less
Average: More than 2 and less than 3
Poor: 3 cottons or more
(Rinsability)
The following test was performed with 6 women panels. During the test for the above foundation removabilty, i.e., when the face was rinsed with tap water, a professional checked, by rubbing the finger on the cheek of the panelist, the quantity of residual product on the skin between each water splashing.
Rinsing speed was measured by the average number of times of water splashing until no product residue was felt on the skin. The levels of the rinsability are as follows.
Fast: 5 or less
Medium: Between 5 and 8
Slow: 8 or more
(Eyes and Skin Discomfort)
Product applied on a cotton pad (see mascara removability protocol) on the eyes of 6 people to remove mascara, then rinsed. "No" means that nobody of the 6 panelists spontaneously claimed eye discomfort.
Table 2
Figure imgf000031_0001
As is clear from the above results, it was found that the cosmetic compositions in the form of an O W emulsion according to the present invention had good transparency, good makeup removability, rinsability and no eyes and skin discomfort. [Comparative Examples]
The following Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were prepared mixing the components shown in Table 3, based on the examples from US2006/0078525 by Kao. ~
Table 3
Figure imgf000032_0001
(1) SUNSOFT A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku)
(5) Sunsoft A-19E (Taiyo Kagaku)
(6) Emanon 1112 (Kao corp)
(7) Rheodol TW-L120 (Kao corp)
(8) SY-DP9 (Sakamoto Yakuhin)
(9) Penetol GE-IS (Kao corp) The aspect, the transparency 1 day after at room temperature, and mascara removability of each composition Comparative Examples 1-4 were measured and determined, as shown above. The results are shown in Table 4. Table 4
Figure imgf000033_0001
None of Comparative Examples 1-4 was transparent. Comparative Example 4 was tested with regard to mascara removability. The mascara removability of Comparative Example 4 was poor (more than 10 cottons were necessary to remove all the mascara).

Claims

A cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising:
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl
moiety derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more C12-2o alkyl or alkenyl chains;
(c) at least one second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 to 10 glycerins and one or more C6-10 alkyl or alkenyl chains;
(d) at least one polyol; and
(e) water,
wherein the total amount of the first and second polyglyceryl fatty ester surfactants is preferably 15% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) oil is Selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils which are in the form of a liquid at a room temperature.
The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, where the (a) oil contains at least one oil chosen from alkane, ester or ether oils with molecular weight below 600 g/mol.
The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (a) oil ranges from 10 to 40% by weight, preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant has an HLB value of from 8.0 to 13.0, preferably from 9.0 to 13, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0.
The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant is chosen from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units.
The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the (b) first (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant ranges from 0.1 to 14% by weight, preferably from 1 to 13% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant has an HLB value of from 6.0 to 13.0, preferably from 6.5 to 12.0, and more preferably from 7.0 to 11.0.
10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant is chosen from (poly)glyceryl fatty acid esters with a (poly)glyceryl moiety derived from 1 or 2 glycerins, preferably glyceryl caprylate, PG-2 caprate, and a mixture thereof.
11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the (c) second (poly)glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant ranges from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 , further comprising at least one additional nonionic surfactant different from the above (b) or (c) and/or at least one ionic surfactant.
13. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 12, wherein the additional nonionic
surfactant is (f) at least one oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant.
14. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 13, wherein the amount of the (f)
oxyalkylene-including nonionic surfactant ranges from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claim 12 to 14, wherein the total mount of the first and second poly glyceryl fatty ester surfactants and of the additional nonionic surfactant(s) is 15% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of all the surfactants to the (a) oil is from 0.3 to 6, preferably from 0.4 to 3, and more preferably from 0.45 to 1.5.
17. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, further comprising at least one polyol which is bivalent or trivalent, preferably bivalent.
18. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, further comprising at least one polyol, where in the amount of polyol is between 4% and 50%, preferably between 6% and 40% and more preferably between 8% and 30%.
19. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 18, further comprising at least one thickening agent, preferably selected from associative thickeners.
20. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 19, wherein the cosmetic composition is in the form of an O/W emulsion, and the (a) oil is in the form of a droplet with a number average particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably from 10 nm to 150 nm.
21. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 20, wherein the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may preferably have a nephelometric turbidity lower than 150NTU, preferably lower than 100 NTU, and more preferably lower than 50 NTU.
22. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 21 being a make-up
removing product for body and/or facial skin.
23. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 22 being a cleansing
product.
24. A non-therapeutic process for treating the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and or the scalp, characterized in that the cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 23 is applied to the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the scalp.
25. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 23, as or in care products and/or washing products and/or make-up products and/or make-up-removing products for body and/or facial skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp and/or the hair and/or the nails and/or the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows.
PCT/JP2013/085303 2012-12-21 2013-12-20 Cosmetic composition WO2014098266A1 (en)

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