Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser Removal

[MarPar]

Hola Gents!

I want to take out the heat riser assy. out of my RH exhaust manifold (68 GTX).

is there some sort of trick to get it out?

i could cut the butterfly off of the rod, but then how do i get the rod out of there without messin up the manifold? looks like the rod is pressed in.

the riser in the intake is already blocked off, so im just trying to clean things up a little bit...and i think there's an exhaust leak coming from there too...

Thanks Y'all!!!

 

[Propwash]

I hate those things....Had a Dart with a loose butterfly. Drove me Banana's with all its jive talking chatter.

I cut the welds free from the butterfly to the rod, then cut the rod in half from the inside. If I remeber correctly the cut rod ends just fell out..They were pretty crusty, so I don't know how much was really holding it in place in the first place. My Coronet, I welded it open and called it a day.

 

[MarPar]

I hate those things....Had a Dart with a loose butterfly. Drove me Banana's with all its jive talking chatter.

I cut the welds free from the butterfly to the rod, then cut the rod in half from the inside. If I remeber correctly the cut rod ends just fell out..They were pretty crusty, so I don't know how much was really holding it in place in the first place. My Coronet, I welded it open and called it a day.

Cool Will, thanks! that's what i had in mind to do, but i thought i would consult the gurus first... yeah, that damn chatter has been drivin me nuts!!!

so then what do i do with the holes that held the rod? i dont really have access to a welder to plug them up. :sad6:

 

[Propwash]

No welder eh? Coat hanger and a battery? LOL. Kinda shooting one out in left field here, but could you thread tap the hole possibly and run in a short bolt?

Maybe lather up the threads with this stuff??? Grind off the head, toss on some manifold paint and be home in time for supper?

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/exhaust_system_maintenance_repair/Permatex_Muffler_Tailpipe_Putty.htm

 

[MarPar]

you da Man!!

No welder eh? Coat hanger and a battery? LOL. Kinda shooting one out in left field here, but could you thread tap the hole possibly and run in a short bolt?

Maybe lather up the threads with this stuff???

http://www.permatex.com/products/au...ce_repair/Permatex_Muffler_Tailpipe_Putty.htm

LOL

hmmm...interesting. i think that stuff will work!

i was thinking of getting a button headed bolt (for the inside) and putting a nut on the outside. then i could slather that stuff around da bolt.

Perfect! thanks again, Will! :headbang:

 

[Propwash]

:icon_rr: Sounds like a groovy plan man!

No sweat Padre..

 

[MarPar]

so got her done today...cut the butterfly out, used hardened bolts, nuts and lock washers and then slathered that muffler putty on it...still have to clean up the slather a little bit, but i think it turned out pretty decent. lets see how long it lasts lol.

so my next question is, do i use gaskets for the manifold and/or flange to pipes?

the manual says it doesnt need them, but when i took these bastards off, they had gaskets. the mating surfaces look to be in good shape and not warped or anything, but i dont want to have to rip these off again cuz of leak.

what say you all??? :star_wars2:

(FWIW, i took off the manifolds without draining any coolant, and it didn't leak. and the radiator is full. weird. the studs are in good condition and they aren't leaking, but i was kinda surprised and relived that the two sleeve bolts didnt leak either.)

 

[Meep-Meep]

I would have looked at just removing the butterfly and keeping the shaft in place to plug the holes, but this works too.

For the manifold to head you will need a gasket that has the perforated steel on one side, and that's the side that goes to the manifold. The flange will need a gasket too. Only exception is if you had the manifold surfaced.

 

[okiemopar]

I would buy the 2 springs off it if you still have them. Thanks Ronnie

 

[hunt2elk]

I did the same as you except used a couple of socket head cap screws to plug the holes. This made a nice clean finished look.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Nice fix I need to do the same on mine, was going to use the high temp steel epoxy and just grind it smooth on the outside bu the bolt thing looks more permanent nice work.

 

[MarPar]

I would buy the 2 springs off it if you still have them. Thanks Ronnie

hey Ronnie, I think i may have kept one of them...the little one. ill check when i get home and let you know.

if i still have it, ill just give it to you...ccasion1:

 

[MarPar]

I would have looked at just removing the butterfly and keeping the shaft in place to plug the holes, but this works too.

For the manifold to head you will need a gasket that has the perforated steel on one side, and that's the side that goes to the manifold. The flange will need a gasket too. Only exception is if you had the manifold surfaced.

i was thinking of doing that, Meep. but it would have been more difficult to try and put that muffler schmutz around the shaft and try and get a decent seal. also, the shaft probably would have been bouncing around in there and work all the putty off.

Yeah, i figured i should use some sort of gasket for the manifolds. the book says not to use any, but they are probably assuming it's not going to be 44 year metal! :black_eye:

 

[Meep-Meep]

i was thinking of doing that, Meep. but it would have been more difficult to try and put that muffler schmutz around the shaft and try and get a decent seal. also, the shaft probably would have been bouncing around in there and work all the putty off.

Yeah, i figured i should use some sort of gasket for the manifolds. the book says not to use any, but they are probably assuming it's not going to be 44 year metal! :black_eye:

Exactly. When the factory put these together things were nice and flat. I had a buddy in HS that had a 70 RR with 50K original miles and needless to say it had never been apart. He did something to it that required the exhaust manifolds be removed and put them back like the book said and there were leaks everywhere. Gaskets solved the problem, which makes me think the reason the aftermarket made them to begin with to use as a band aid in lieu of having the manifolds surfaced.

 

[Propwash]

Good work Mario. Looks good man!

 

[rlsbee]

Just my two cents... As far as gaskets, I really like the Remflex gaskets
I've used used 'em on a couple of projects and they work good.

http://catalog.remflex.com/

 

[MarPar]

I would buy the 2 springs off it if you still have them. Thanks Ronnie

sorry for the late response, Ronnie. i did wind up throwing them away. :angry9:

so now im putting it all back together, and the exhaust pipe+manifold is like a half inch off towards the front!!!

WTF!! did it just move on it's own??? i dont remember it being in a bind when i took it off!!

i loosed the pipe clamp that holds it to the h-part of the exhaust, sprayed a little pb blaster on it, and banged the hell out of it to see if it would move back enough to put the manifold on..no dice.

i have the manifold attached to the pipe right now...and i dont want to force it and mess up the manifold studs.

what do to???

thanks for any thoughts guys!!!

 

[MarPar]

Whore-ay!!!

a little update...

so after calling a good friend of mine (chevy guy, but a great guy, nonetheless...lol) and takin a good look at it :icon_weed:

we surmised to loosen the band clamps (the two nuts facing down) that hold the back part of the muffler...and proceeded to do a whole helluva lot of wrastilin' and swearin' at the pipe, using a pry bar and center-point chisel to locate the holes from the manifold to the flange, and there it went!!! just like when she... :sex: well, nevermind...:eusa_whistle: (mind you, a flange gasket was used!!!:rolling

i do have a question for y'all; do the 2 sleeve bolts look right to you???
the forward-most one looks like it's sticking out too far. IIRC they are the same length?? i tightened them down as close to 30ft/lbs as i could.

any comments are very welcome!!!