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A cold engine needs a rich air/fuel mixture to get things moving. Once up to operating temperature, it can run on a leaner charge.

But a cold engine burning a rich mixture is inefficient, so to get old carbureted engines up to temperature more quickly, automakers employed a simple valve at the base of the exhaust manifold to prevent hot exhaust gas from immediately exiting the engine. The blocked exhaust serves to warm a hot spot below the carburetor on inline engines. On V-configuration engines, the diverted hot gases flow below the carburetor through the intake manifold crossover passage.

This thermostatic heat control valve, heat riser valve, or heat riser, as its often called, is a butterfly valve that rotates on a counterweighted shaft damped by bimetallic spring. When the spring is cold, it's tense and the heat riser valve remains closed or nearly closed. As the spring relaxes, exhaust gas pressure can force the butterfly valve open more easily. Valves operated by springs and counterweights do not open fully and remain open, but rather flap open and closed as the engine revs.

Later styles employed a vacuum diaphragm controlled by a thermostatic switch that could more positively open and close the heat riser's butterfly valve.

Many old-car enthusiasts wire heat risers open or remove them altogether and replace them with spacers because, as heat risers age, they can rattle or stick in the closed position, causing engine over heating and poor performance. Removing the valve or forcing it to remain open increases the engine's warm-up time, however, creating a different set of problems.

Replacement heat risers for more popular brands, like the example pictured above, are available from the aftermarket, as are replacement springs. It's also possible to rebuild an old heat riser with new shaft bushings if you're so inclined and very patient.

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