Medieval charm, lakeside setting and amazing chocolate – is this Europe's most underrated city break?

Why go now?

Switzerland’s fifth largest city sits midway along crescent-shaped Lac Léman (don’t even think about calling it Lake Geneva in this French-speaking canton). 

High above the lakefront, the medieval centre straddles three hills connected by masonry bridges that span what once were rivers, now long since paved over. From the Gothic cathedral at its highest point, the city flows downhill towards the shimmering lake and mansions, parks and gardens that line its shore.   

Springtime sees the Lausannois reconnecting with their waterfront after weathering the winter chills that blow down from the Alps. Against a profusion of magnolias and tulips, the broad and scenic promenade sprouts a jumble of cafes and pop-up bars, while fleets of pedalos and pleasure boats invite passers-by onto the lake. The fresh new season also sees the return of Lausanne à Table (lausanneatable.ch), one of Europe’s largest food festivals, which runs until October.

Getting there

British Airways (0344 493 0787; ba.com) flies to Geneva from three London airports, from £69 return. Jet2 (jet2.com), easyJet (easyjet.com) and Flybe (flybe.com) offer departures from regional airports. Trains from the airport to Lausanne take 45 minutes and cost 23 Swiss francs (£17) return. Alternatively, travel by train from London, via Paris, from £129 (loco2.com).

Where to stay

Special treat

The Royal Savoy (1), a restored Art Nouveau masterpiece at Avenue d’Ouchy 40 (0041 21 614 8888; royalsavoy.ch) is Lausanne’s newest luxury hotel. Expect chic decor, an extensive spa and a Michelin-starred chef in the brasserie. Doubles from £268, including breakfast. Read the full review here. 

Mid-range

Further uphill, Hotel de la Paix (2), at Avenue Benjamin-Constant 5 (0041 21 310 7171; hoteldelapaix.net), offers comfortable rooms in an elevated spot near the cathedral. Book a front-facing room for the sheer thrill of waking to glorious views. Doubles from £144, including breakfast. Read the full review here. 

Budget

Swiss wines are too good to export, which is why they’re almost unknown overseas. Discover their secrets at Hotel Swiss Wine (3) at Rue Caroline 5 (0041 21 320 2141; byfassbind.com), which has wine-themed interiors and daily tastings. Doubles from £88, including breakfast. 

On arrival 

6pm

Head uphill to the grand and imposing Cathedral of Notre Dame (4), which was consecrated in 1275. Climb the bell tower (CHF5/£4pp) to take in the views over medieval rooftops and the lake, with everything crowned by the towering French Alps beyond. 

7pm

Descend the creaking wooden staircase opposite the cathedral’s portal and join the crowd of locals enjoying an after-work drink at The Great Escape (5), at rue Madeleine 18 (0041 21 312 3194; the-great.ch), whose terrace overlooks Place de la Riponne. 

Day one

10am

Return to Place de la Riponne (6) and feast your eyes on the abundance of produce at the colourful, twice-weekly market that fills the square. Stalls flow from here down cobbled rue Madeleine, past small shops specialising in tasteful homewares. 

11am

Rue Madeleine runs into Place de la Palud (7). Arrive on the hour to catch the chimes of the kitsch, wall-mounted clock, whose narrative and moving parts celebrate Lausanne’s history. In front of the clock, note the statue of Justice above the fountain, keeping a watchful eye on proceedings at the 17th-century Town Hall across the square. 

Noon

In addition to ages-old architecture, the maze of cobbled streets hereabouts is crammed with interesting shops. Try La Ferme Vaudoise (lafermevaudoise.ch), next to the Town Hall, for cheeses, wines and produce from Vaud canton, of which Lausanne is the capital. Blondel (8), at rue du Bourg 5 (chocolatsblondel.ch), is a good bet for bingeing on handmade Swiss chocolates. 

2pm

Stick with the Swiss theme by stopping for lunch at pint-sized Pinte Besson (9), at rue de l’Ale 4 (0041 21 312 5969; pinte-besson.ch). Opened in 1740, this is Lausanne’s oldest restaurant and serves time-honoured, deliciously unhealthy treats such as fondue and rösti with Vaudoise smoked sausage. 

4pm

Among Lausanne’s 20-odd museums, Collection de l’Art Brut (10), at Avenue Bergières 11, is perhaps the most unconventional (artbrut.ch; admission CHF10/£8pp). Focusing on “outsider art”, its paintings, sculptures and other works were created by artists in prisons and asylums, making this a quirky cultural fix. 

7pm

Head for drinks and dinner at wonderful Brasserie de Montbenon (11), at Allée Ernest Ansermet 3 (0041 21 320 4030; brasseriedemontbenon.ch). 

Housed within a former casino, this lively bar and restaurant serves classic dishes with contemporary twists in an elegant space where picture windows look on to pretty gardens.  

Day two

10am

Take a stroll along the waterfront at Ouchy (12), a former fishing village that blossomed into a resort in the mid-1800s, as evidenced by the fanciful hotels that line the promenade.  

11am

End your walk at the Olympic Park, at Quai d’Ouchy 1, and climb the steps to the La Musée Olympique (13) (0041 21 621 6511; olympic.org/museum; admission CHF18/£14pp). Lausanne is home to the International Olympic Committee, and this museum is the city’s top attraction. Head straight upstairs to TOM Café and tuck into its popular Weekend Brunch (CHF43/£35pp) before discovering three floors of temporary and permanent displays.

Noon

The Olympic Museum celebrates the very pinnacle of sporting prowess. Interactive multimedia exhibits include video footage of opening ceremonies, posters and merchandise from various Games, and powerful, inspiring and moving stories of extraordinary personal triumph. Look out too for items connected to famed Olympic icons, such as the cycling kit worn by Team GB’s Chris Hoy at London 2012. 

3.30pm

Return along the waterfront to the quay (14) and pick up a sightseeing cruise along the Swiss Riviera (0041 900 929 929; cgn.ch; from CHF50/£40pp). Spot pretty villages, terraced vineyards and fairy-tale Château de Chillon against an unforgettable backdrop of Alpine scenery.